Info on PCV/oil separator

**Prof** · 01-31-2016 09:10 AM

Hi All,
Last Fall I had a problem with my 2009 MT A4 misfiring in cylinders 3 and 4. I replaced spark plugs and I took the car into a independent VW/Audi shop and they found that the PCV/oil separator was not operating properly. They could hardly take the oil cap off of the engine while the engine was on. They replaced the PCV/oil separator and ran a smoke test. The misfiring continued so I drove an hour to an Audi dealership and they replaced all 4 injectors (under warranty) and cleaned the valves due to carbon fouling. The car ran perfectly; a jump in performance and gas mileage.

Yesterday I ran a can of CRC valve cleaner through the air intake past the MAF sensor as preventative maintenance to reduce future carbon fouling of the valves; I also changed my oil and filter. I happened to look closely at the PCV/oil separator.

Please note that years ago I had a Stage 1 oil consumption fix to reduce oil consumption and it worked. I change my oil every 7500 miles and use about 3/4 qt oil to keep it topped up. When I had the Stage 1 fix the PCV/oil separator part number was: 06H-103-495J. When the indy shop replaced my PCV/oil separator they installed one with a part number: 06H-103-495AE. These part numbers do not match. Did they install the correct part? If this is an incorrect part what part number should I buy?

Thanks,
Michael

**A4QUARTZ** · 01-31-2016 09:50 AM

I will go with pcv # 06H-103-495AC to replace "J"
You can also get Dorman #917-064 PCV Diaphragm repair kit at local auto store.
More info here
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ew-revised-PCV

**lettuce** · 01-31-2016 10:45 AM

Two things.

First off, the PCV situation for our cars is confusing because of all the revisions and oil consumption fixes. -AE is the updated version of the -J, so if that's what the dealer put on your car then the -AE is what the shop should have put on when replacing it. I had -AC on my car so replaced it with another -AC and it seems better, but I've been contemplating trying out an -AE to see the difference.

Second, how exactly did you go about dumping the valve cleaner into your intake system? Is that an aerosol or a liquid? Because reading your post it kind of seems to me like you just disconnected your turbo inlet pipe from your airbox and dumped the can in there, in which case I'm surprised your car is still running properly. I can just imagine it all pooled up at the bottom of your intercooler. Either way I would not consider this a form of preventative maintenance, as it won't do anything and has the potential to cause problems.

**Prof** · 01-31-2016 12:09 PM

Hi lettuce,
Thank you for the information about the PCV and that the -AE is the updated version of the -J. I will just keep this -AE PCV installed and see if I have a return of increased oil consumption in the future.

As for the procedure for the CRC intake valve cleaner, the following is the instructions from the vendor.
CRC Intake Valve Cleaner can be purchased from any auto parts store. The instructions below were on can and from the CRC website.
It is recommended to read the entire product label before use.
1. Start engine and meet operating temperature.
2. Remove air filter cover.
3. Locate MAF sensor between the air box and throttle body.
4. Engage (lift) the straw on the PermaStraw Dual-Action Spray System and insert PAST THE MAF SENSOR. To avoid throwing a code, DO NOT spray product in front of the MAF sensor. You may need to disassemble air intake to administer past the MAF sensor.
5. With engine running at 2,000 RPM, spray product into air intake, behind the MAF sensor, continuously for 30 second intervals until can is empty. If necessary, accelerate to avoid engine stalling during spray period. DO NOT exceed 3,500 RPM. Take care not to burn arm or hand on hot engine surfaces while dispensing can.
6. Once can is empty, accelerate the engine 2 to 3 times without exceeding 3,500 RPM.
7. Run at idle for one minute, then turn engine off.
8. Reassemble air intake system and let engine heat-soak for one hour.
9. Restart engine and drive at highway speeds for at least 10 minutes.

**blbroo** · 01-31-2016 12:25 PM

When I used the CRC, I used a lighter to bend a U into the spray tube and inserted it into the throttle body, then hooked back up the boost hose. This got it a lot closer to the manifold, va spraying through the turbo, intercooler and all.

Stay classy.