Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 13 2015
    AZ Member #
    348606
    Location
    Kelowna

    Audi A4 Testpipe Install Nightmare

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    How the hell do I get the stock catalytic converter out of there? I removed the airbox and both O2 sensors. I removed the downpipe from the main exhaust, and I unbolted the stock cat from the engine. So now I have the cat and the downpipe lose. I tried for hours to get it out. Tried removing it through the bottom of the car downpipe first, cat is too big to fit through. Tried removing it through the engine bay catalytic converter first, and can't get it out that way either. There's no way I'm getting the downpipe unbolted from the cat in there either. What now?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings BaseDrifter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 18 2010
    AZ Member #
    59183
    Location
    Bay Area, CA

    Remove the front passenger wheel and unbolt the DP from cat. With both ends loose it should be able to rotate enough to get to the tricky bolt.
    | Update thread / Youtube Channel |

    97 A4 1.8TQM: Frankenturbo|TyrolSport SMIC|034 HFC|Borla catback|Carbonio/007 DV|Vogtland GT3|034 RSB|Apikol Bushings|034 SD motor/tranny/strut mounts|A8 brakes/SS lines|JHM trio|Meyle HD CA/TREs|
    01 S4 2.7T: Stock

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings MarcRogers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 18 2016
    AZ Member #
    367391
    Location
    PA

    I've got the cat out through the bottom it's kinda a bitch but I did have the downpipe unbolted from the cat


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Cybersombosis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 13 2009
    AZ Member #
    50676
    Location
    Victoria, B.C., Canada

    To get it out from the top you have to rotate it as you pull it out. I remember scratching my head until it suddenly came out. I put it back in the same way.

    Doug
    2001.5 Audi A4 1.8TQMS - Brilliant Black on Black Onyx Sport Cloth
    Motoza Hybrid K04 Tune, Frankenturbo F4-H Kit, Bosch EV14 550cc injectors, APR R1 Diverter Valve, Snow Performance Stage 3 Water/Meth Injection Dual Nozzle Setup, Majesty FMIC kit, SSAC Cat Back Exhaust, Podi Boost Gauge in center vent pod, ATP Test Pipe, K&N air filter, HID fog upgrade, eBay short shifter, Center LCD retrofit, Aero wiper kit, Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs, 18” B6 Ultrasport, Firestone Indy 500.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 18 2016
    AZ Member #
    367394
    My Garage
    '14 A6 TDI, 01 TT 225Q Roadster Nimbus/Amber Baseball
    Location
    NH

    Need to separate the down pipe. Dremel off the nuts/bolts if you have too. I've had to pull the passenger axle and axle shield before to get working room. If you have oxy acetylene, cut them off etc. Use whatever tools you have to get the job done. Downpipe doesn't have to come out normally. Cat alone from the top.

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings volkswagensRus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 19 2015
    AZ Member #
    364685
    Location
    Buffalo, NY

    Quote Originally Posted by BaseDrifter View Post
    Remove the front passenger wheel and unbolt the DP from cat. With both ends loose it should be able to rotate enough to get to the tricky bolt.
    Way easier to take it out of the bottom, if you have the means.
    2001 Audi A4 Hibiscus Red Pearl Metallic , quattro, 5spd, Symphony stereo, winter package, 3" 034 catless DP, 2.2" exhaust, white snub nose mount.
    For Sale: 1x oval Borla muffler + piping. 1x rectangular Borla muffler + piping. 1x B5 A4 cat+o2 sensor + wiring.
    FOR SALE: 2 catalytic convertors (one w/ both o2 sensors), Audi B5-a4 cat-back exhaust Borla muffler+resonater

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings A1 A2 German's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 28 2005
    AZ Member #
    5519
    My Garage
    Audi A4 B5, Audi Fox, Audi AMLS TT, GS450, CB175, CL175
    Location
    Tempe

    I was going to (may still) make a thread for an easy how too.

    The pita is using 3' of extensions to access the cat/test pipe to dp nuts. Forget that, simply take an angle grinder and cut out your welded in flex pipe and trash it. Buy a stainless steel 12" slip on flex pipe like this: http://www.google.com/search?q=12%22..._ntEmBlf2pM%3A. Why? This simply will pull off in 30 seconds and you can pull your entire test pipe and dp as one, once reinstalling slip this back on to complete the system and all that's left is the three ~15mm kkk bolts. Talk about cake.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 10 2013
    AZ Member #
    124715
    My Garage
    98 Civic CX Hatch, 2012 CBR250R
    Location
    State College PA

    Take the passenger side trans mount/bracket off. This will require remove of front passenger wheel, also take the passenger axle heat shield off. I did all this when I did my clutch job. I reinstalled the cat and downpipe before I put the mount and heat shield back in. Slid right in. Getting the bracket back on the trans is tricky but doable. Good luck.

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings volkswagensRus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 19 2015
    AZ Member #
    364685
    Location
    Buffalo, NY

    Quote Originally Posted by A1 A2 German View Post
    I was going to (may still) make a thread for an easy how too.

    The pita is using 3' of extensions to access the cat/test pipe to dp nuts. Forget that, simply take an angle grinder and cut out your welded in flex pipe and trash it. Buy a stainless steel 12" slip on flex pipe like this: http://www.google.com/search?q=12%22..._ntEmBlf2pM%3A. Why? This simply will pull off in 30 seconds and you can pull your entire test pipe and dp as one, once reinstalling slip this back on to complete the system and all that's left is the three ~15mm kkk bolts. Talk about cake.
    Agreed for the most part. For two reasons. 1) The stock tubing from manifold to the first flex pipe is TINY. Eradicate the stock DP+cat and tubing up to the first flex pipe, and you'll have a 2.2" OD factory exhaust. 2) It's a PITA getting the piping off up to the first flex pipe. Just cut that junk out. But keep the stock flex if its in good shape.
    2001 Audi A4 Hibiscus Red Pearl Metallic , quattro, 5spd, Symphony stereo, winter package, 3" 034 catless DP, 2.2" exhaust, white snub nose mount.
    For Sale: 1x oval Borla muffler + piping. 1x rectangular Borla muffler + piping. 1x B5 A4 cat+o2 sensor + wiring.
    FOR SALE: 2 catalytic convertors (one w/ both o2 sensors), Audi B5-a4 cat-back exhaust Borla muffler+resonater

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings b5a4erik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 22 2014
    AZ Member #
    192142
    Location
    Aptos, CA

    When I did mine (99 aeb 1.8t fwd) I just removed the 6 total bolts, 3 at the top, 3 at the bottom of the cat, and it came out pretty easy. Now that I think about it, I just might've had my exhaust manifold and all that heat shielding removed at the same time as well. Perhaps a lotta extra work, but hope this helps.

    - ea

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings tar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 07 2009
    AZ Member #
    44682
    My Garage
    B8 S4, Orange B5 Avant
    Location
    Socal/IE

    Pulling mine for clutch its a bitch. Just ordered vband flanges so future will be easier(i hope) I'm borla and went out The top with alot of other stuff off axles/shields ect. So ready to have a lift in garage(3 months away)

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2024 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.