Who else hates auto-lower @ +80mph on your ar?

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

So this has to be my largest flaw with the allroad design. My 2002 allroad lowers it self to LV 1 when I go over 82mph for more than 15 seconds or something. Since I am 402 modded with IPP arms, this puts my allroad very low and I can not raise it back up unless I reduce speed under 60mph.

Who else hates this?!!!

I realized that if I press the raise button as soon as the auto-lower starts I can over ride it and it will stay in LV 2 where I want it. Only sometimes I don't see the little blinking light telling me that it is lowering and then it is too late and I cant raise the car back up unless I drop below 60mph

So a solution. I am considering tying a mosfet transistor to the LED to ground, and the drain of the FET to a small buzzer that will beep as soon as the lowering initiates. Just a thought

[G0to60]

Two things you could do that are easy and free. Not speed or raise your car.

Just kidding. I know one thing you can do is set the speed warning to 80mph and that will give you a warning on the dash that you're about to go over the lowering speed.

[V1nny]

or do not lower AR excessively. When lowered beyond design values, ride if awful, so why do it?

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

I traditionally drive between 75 and 85. As soon as it starts to lower for the first time if I press the button it will cancel the auto lower function for the remaining duration of the drive no matter how fast I go. I wish there was a way to eliminate the auto lower feature in vcds.

[V1nny]

I traditionally drive between 75 and 85. As soon as it starts to lower for the first time if I press the button it will cancel the auto lower function for the remaining duration of the drive no matter how fast I go. I wish there was a way to eliminate the auto lower feature in vcds.

I think 2001 allroad is different, you might need t use suspension control module from it. It has "manual" mode, where you set the level

[glennda5id]

I think its sort of a cool feature. I like automation.

In what conditions do you have the car in level 1 in general if not on the highway?

Why do you have the IPP arms? To be able to go lower, higher, or both?

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

The reason I do it is that LV2 is slightly higher than LV1 stock height. So LV2 is the perfect height for 80% of daily driving. When I take the car around corners in the mountains fast or if I am doing a freeway race I lower it to lv 1 for significantly more stability. I also sometimes lower is to LV1 at work or places for stance nation douche status. But for the most part I drive it in level two and all is well.

The ride is not awful in lv1 what so ever in my ar. The only reason I do not like it is that it puts too much camber on my tires and I don't want to add to pre-mature wear. I just wish I could raise the car back to level 2 without having to reduce speed to 60. I figured that some other people would be annoyed by this.

[glennda5id]

Excessive negative camber will not add much wear to tires. Toe is the tire killer. That being said, toe will change between the levels but I don't know by how much and if it has a big impact. Differences in toe between heights is something I would personally be interested in determining except I think I am going to move to a static setup...

[4rings2turbos]

My input since I've been through what you talk about.

-camber will and does put excessive wear even if toe is within spec. I've eaten many a tire being 402'd as low as I am for as long as I have. Toe is adjustable and I had it adjusted in level 1 when I 402'd to be within spec, yet my tires still wore like crazy on the inside.
-I'm 402'd 52mm front, 50mm rear and my allroad is comfortable and not excessively floaty and definitely not harsh, though really looking forward to tightening things up with various braces, h-sports, etc.
(conti springs and OEM struts ftw!)
-the 01 has manual mode, but this does not override automatic lowering at speeds and actually the threshold for some of the levels is actually SLOWER SPEED than the 'facelifted' version sans manual mode. The only thing it overrides is auto raising.
(though this is baked into the facelift controller, i.e. if you're in level 3 for example and lower to level 2 manually it will stay there. Only if it lowers automatically will it also raise automatically)
-in the end I bought 034 control arms to dial my camber in and I've been a happy camper ever since and my tire wear woes are gone. Even the 60 treadwear rated Pirellis I have on now are lasting a long time, putting to rest that these cars simply eat tires. Not true with correct alignment and probably attributed to driving predominantly in one level that has the best alignment values.

Def get the adjustable CAs for the front and have your rear camber adjusted, they'll save you money in the long run. I prefer level 1 at speed anyway. It feels that much more planted with my setup.

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

I would get the adjustable cas but I am afraid of breaking them as I abuse my ar offroad often and don't want to snap one. That's the only reason I stayed with stock

[4rings2turbos]

The 034 arms are supposedly stronger than the factory arms. Not personally going to put money on that though.

[ChicagosPhantom]

As every single one mine lowers itself,but I'm thinking over 82MPH,but I don't have problem rising it after it fully lower itself at that speed...

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

Do you have an 01? I know the old module is different, maybe a new module from an older allroad with MAN adjustment will solve my problem

[4rings2turbos]

Check out my 3rd point in post #9. The manual mode does not override automatic lowering at speed.

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

Check out my 3rd point in post #9. The manual mode does not override automatic lowering at speed.

Oh your right. I wonder how Chicago gets his go work

[4rings2turbos]

You've never met him, he's an extremely intimidating Serbian... his car doesn't dare disobey. He has an 05, but I don't think he can overcome lowering after 82 or whatever the speed is.

[toms73novass]

too bad this never panned out....
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ol-Unit-inside!

[ChicagosPhantom]

You've never met him, he's an extremely intimidating Serbian... his car doesn't dare disobey. He has an 05, but I don't think he can overcome lowering after 82 or whatever the speed is.

Dudeeee.....lol.....
Seriously now,I don't know how I missed this post.

I believe you misunderstood me folks.
SPITFIRE does lower itself automatically from lvl2 to lvl1,but I think it's above 82mph,so let's say 90mph.After I see flashing light for lowering process I just hit rise button and lowering function is cancelled.Even if it goes to lvl1 and I'm driving,usually over 70mph,I can go instantly to lvl2,don't have to drop speed to 60mph at all.

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

So yours lowers at 90 and you can raise it past 70mph. Mine is 82/60. Next time see if you can lower if you are going over 80. I wonder if I can recode my module to be like an 05. Maybe its actually different.

[4rings2turbos]

Here you are my dear friend:

2001 - 2002 - 2003 - 2004 - 2005

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

I know I have read that before! Sweet

I bet it is a recode in the module. Im gonna look it up. If someone wants to post up there module coding that would be sweet.

[4rings2turbos]

If no one else does then remind me and I'll make time to do it.

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

From here it appears that I need the F or maybe an H box to make it work

[Racin2redline]

I have an 01 before the OEM module burned out the car would still lower itself down over 80 and automatically enable ESP again

I'm not entirely sure what my newer E module does . I'll check coding and go do 85mph for you

not that bothered by it becuase I don't usually go over 80 and my cars not 402d because in my opinion anything lower than stock setting level 1 rides like shit, if you think otherwise I feel bad for you because you likely never owned a car with proper suspension

[4rings2turbos]

Haha, what a crazy thing to say. Because your one allroad has either aftermarket bags and struts or they're all worn out and can't go lower than level 1 you assume that's the case with all allroads?

I think I have a decent grip on ride comfort and handling after driving and selling literally hundreds of high end German sedans and sportscars. My allroad with newish OEM bags and struts rides totally reasonably after a 2 inch drop.

All the information you guys need is in the chart above. There is no such thing as a factory module that will let you ride at a higher level at the maximum speed. You can manually rise the height at any time but you MUST be below the speed threshold. Otherwise your only option is to somehow modify the controller.

[Racin2redline]

Haha, what a crazy thing to say. Because your one allroad has either aftermarket bags and struts or they're all worn out and can't go lower than level 1 you assume that's the case with all allroads?

I think I have a decent grip on ride comfort and handling after driving and selling literally hundreds of high end German sedans and sportscars. My allroad with newish OEM bags and struts rides totally reasonably after a 2 inch drop.

All the information you guys need is in the chart above. There is no such thing as a factory module that will let you ride at a higher level at the maximum speed. You can manually rise the height at any time but you MUST be below the speed threshold. Otherwise your only option is to somehow modify the controller.

probably a little bold but lol hey everyone can do what they please, i wont say my car doesnt look good 402d 15-20mm :) but compared to my TT on bilsteins pss9s the ride is wayyy to plush for me that low, i prefer the stiffer feel of the higher ride heights, imo cruising down a winding road at speed feels more stable with more air pressure, not to mention even at stock level 1 , WOT with 400+wtq tends to fell a little bouncy when transitioning between shifts and on and off throttle

my suspension is all brand new btw

[4rings2turbos]

Brand new OEM? Because Arnott and aftermarket struts are all very sub-par.

Compared to a sports car that weighs 1,000lbs less (assuming 225 6MT) on nice coils, yeah lol, it's gonna feel different...

[beardman]

Just a thought. You could always wire in a switch into the purge valve circuit. Shut it off and the car can't lower itself. Most likely you would receive the dimly lit suspension dash error, but would most likely do what you wanted. Not sure if any negative effects.

[Racin2redline]

Brand new OEM? Because Arnott and aftermarket struts are all very sub-par.

Compared to a sports car that weighs 1,000lbs less (assuming 225 6MT) on nice coils, yeah lol, it's gonna feel different...

i wasnt trying to directly compare the vehicles, just stating one will never be like the other. not that the TT is even a true sports car lol, regardless the ride quality is superb, and i cant see my allroad even coming close in ride quality (on air) that i would find acceptable at a similar ride height.. this is just my opinion its fine if noone else agrees, but i cant stand the level 1 ride quality 402d more than 10mm...

fronts are GEN2 arnotts on oem dampeners, imo they are a huge improvement in ride quality vs oem air springs, they stay much firmer at lower ride heights and really add a sportier feel to the handling. they feel well matched to the oem dampeners. less wallowing more on center feel when going through the corners..
not sure how they are sub par? have you owned a set? at the moment i have just positive things to say about them! for clarity my car has all new control arms torqued properly at ride height and alignment done

not sure the repercussions of this but ive heard of people cutting the speed signal to the air suspension module, that way if it never sees speed you can keep it in any height you like?

[happy2B5]

@4rings - 52f / 50r 402. Really? That seems excessive and almost not realistic. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but when I tried 20 it basically bottomed out and rubbed bad. Now this is with tired original bags but still. Since replaced with apparently inferior arnott gen 2 air springs. Surely they are better than my failing original leaky ones.

Tahoe - I don't love it either. I 402'd mine and since put on ipp arms (both for lower and higher adjustment settings). I am worried once it does tip the 82 mph speed it will lower too much and cause issue rubbing at "high" speed. I know I just need to reset 402 to factory or close and it should resolve that issue.

[4rings2turbos]

Excessive but looks great. Genuinely it rides MILES better than my friend's MKV GTI on healthy factory suspension, just to put it in perspective. It's not luxurious over heavily broken concrete but that's the absolute joy of adjustable air suspension, I simply push a button.

Bottoming out it should never do. I've never had an issue with that.

[julex]

Bottoming out it should never do. I've never had an issue with that.

This depends what springs you have in your car. If arnott Gen 1 then it is easy to bottom out since their bump stop was completely insufficient to stop the spring from bottoming out. Gen2.5 is better, but still allows the wheel to go very deep into the wheel well before you hit bump stops. Arnott can be lowered a lot before you start hitting their tiny bump stops so I guess this is what you have.

If talking stock suspension, 50mm would land you firmly on bump stops and oh boy, that would be one bumpy barely dampened ride.

[4rings2turbos]

I don't have arnott, I have all factory components, save for my 034 upper CAs