Daily Driver Build - '98.5 A4 1.8TQM

[slunky]

Looks great. I just installed my APR catback a few weeks ago. I've found that the easier way to wrestle with the rubber hangers is to spray them with WD40 and let it soak for an hour. The WD40 penetrates the rock-hard rubber and makes removal a lot easier.

[nemick]

You'll need to put the front end in the service position to change the snub mount. Nothing to do but pull the old one off and push the new one on once in service position, so think about anything else you might want to do while there.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Don't need to go to service position I did my with out removing anything. But if you need other work than go that route.

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

[MetalMan]

Don't need to go to service position I did my with out removing anything. But if you need other work than go that route.

On AEB, the snub mount holder and bracket are different than AWM. You can't do it without being in partial service position.

[PringlesInVic]

Sorry, but I'm still new the B5. What is service position?

From what I gather, I have to take my bumper off. And rad/rad support. Expose the front of the engine? But I've heard some have done it without removing rad, just pulled it back?

I wouldn't mind doing a coolant system flush. What other maintainance should I consider while I'm doing this?

Our office is shutting down for the holidays until the new year. So I'll have some time to wrench. A few other things waiting to go in the car too.

[Turbo_B5]

up on jackstands, front bumper off iirc.

[Wrath And Tears]

Most people think service position is removing the radiator and support, however there are tools you thread back into the rad support that let you pull it forward a few inches, allowing you access to the front of the motor. This lets you get the room to work without draining the coolant.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

On AEB, the snub mount holder and bracket are different than AWM. You can't do it without being in partial service position.

I stand corrected I guess as I dont have an AEB.


service position looks something like this

[IMG][/IMG]

[PringlesInVic]

Thanks.

Not intimidating at all lol, just take the front of the car off. No biggie. This little piece of poly better be worth it.

I guess it'll be good practise though, I see a lot of build threads where the front comes off a lot.

[BruceT91]

Looks good! Im doing a manual swap in my girlfriends car right now and doing similar updates. Love to follow the progress. Clean B5 good choice in mods

[Turbo_B5]

Thanks.

Not intimidating at all lol, just take the front of the car off. No biggie. This little piece of poly better be worth it.

I guess it'll be good practise though, I see a lot of build threads where the front comes off a lot.

you dont need to take the rad support off. I just remove the bumper shock bolts, I left a t30 on eachside up top bairly threaded in to hold the RS , and sliped on the new snub. use wd-40.

[Wrath And Tears]

I stand corrected I guess as I dont have an AEB.


service position looks something like this

[IMG][/IMG]

THIS IS NOT THE SERVICE POSITION. I will take a picture of a B7 S4 which my coworker has in the service position.

King's way is more of a true service position, even though he doesn't use the specific tools, then taking off the rad support like the above picture.

Edit: Standard labor for service position is like .8 hours or less. Try removing the rad support, and putting it back in place and filling with coolant in .8 hours. A typical cooling system service bills .8 as well...

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Very well I'm not a tech but I like working with the extra room so when I need to work on some things on the front end other than the snub I just take the time and pull it all off. That's just me, I would like to see the true service position too?

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

[Wrath And Tears]

Sorry for being an ass Goodbynaair, fully removing the rad support definitely gives you more room to work and is much easier. Service position is more of a "time saver" so I wanted to make sure people knew you don't have to remove the rad support. I will take pictures tomorrow because its good information for the community. I for the longest time thought that removing the rad support was service position until my coworker corrected me and showed me the tools (I keep saying tools but it's really just two long bolts that let that rad support rest further out and then two spacers that go between the support and the frame to prevent the support from sliding back.)

And sorry for dragging your thread off topic(ish) Pringle.

[PringlesInVic]

Update:

So, I've been on holidays since the 23rd. Enjoying our little girls first Christmas, she's only 2 1/2 months old so doesn't get it yet. But it was really fun. It was also our first Christmas in our new house, which was also fun.


So that meant that the A4 got the garage to itself for the past week so that I could get a couple things that I wanted done. This time my focus was on the interior. Got a couple good deals at some boxing day sales, but not what I had hoped for. It just wasn't good this year.


I picked up a pair if Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" for the parcel shelf and a Hertz 2-Channel to power them. They're perfectly matched at 100W@4ohms RMS x2. I was hoping to find a set of components for the fronts, but no good deals. Well not entirely true Visions Electronics did have the Hertz Components $500 off at $299, but that's still pretty steep at this point. I still need Coilovers and wheels.


Anyway I took advantage of the time off to do the install properly. So out came the drivers seat (more on that later), centre console, back seat, parcel shelf panel, truck liner, so on and so forth. It was the most apart the car has been so far. I took out all the previous owners half ass work. Ran 3x high quality RCA's up the centre, as well as the remote wire, and power wire from battery. I also ran my USB cable up through the factory Car Phone connection and into the armrest compartment. Got everything zip tied and secured, then put it all back together. Ran the wiring under the carpet to the back seat compartment and from there up to the parcel shelf where everything was hidden and secured. A tip for beginners, I use coloured zip ties around both sides of the RCA's so you know which one is which, it sucks when you can't remember which one is Front, Rear, or Sub lol. I had to cut into the parcel shelf metal to make the speakers fit. They're big. I used the underside of the parcel shelf as an amp rack for a nice hidden look. Plus I didn't want to be banging into them with the stroller. I scooped the Infinity Kappa Perfect 10 sub out of my wife's Jetta and the Phoenix Gold amp powering it. Also installed my Alpine X305 to run it all. I LOVE THIS HEAD UNIT. I used the Metra trim plate which adds a nice stock look.


It's a good start. This is the path I will be going for the rest of the stereo. I will be looking for a good deal on a Hertz HPC4 4-Channel. And some 5 1/4" components and coaxial for the rest if the doors. I will also keep my eyes peeled for a Hertz Mono so they all match. I'm weird about everything having to match. I will probably keep the sub as is for now, other than the Alpine Type R I still haven't heard anything come close to the Kappa Perfect. I also plan to run proper distribution blocks when the other amps are installed. This will due for now. No more blown speaker buzz, woohoo.



Here's a pic of the Alpine installed, the backlighting is set to Red to match the factory lighting. It ties in really well, especially with the Podi gauge.





While the seat was out, I gave the carpet a good clean with the Bissel Little Green Machine. Also, you can see the Metra trim plate fits nicely with the Alpine.





Here's the 30-pin iPod connector in the centre arm rest. Nice and hidden away.





A shot of the amps on the underside of the parcel shelf.





They are tucked up there nicely.





All in all I'm happy with the sound so far. It still needs tuning though. I may also need some dynamat for the shelf, there's a rattle now. I will also need to keep on the look out for a speaker grille. I had a crack in the driver side, but when I put it over the taller coaxial speaker that crack expanded and the whole grill is smashed now. The passenger side stretched fine. A fix for another day, I won't see it very often lol. I haven't used the Hertz gear before but heard great review. And they sounded good on the board in the store. But those boards are designed to make them sound better than they would in car. We'll see.



The other thing I've been waiting to do is a seat repair. A shout out to Wrath and Tears for sourcing and shipping me a seat bottom cover in great shape. It took a while to put on, but it was totally worth the time. Wrath, thanks again. I know now what you had to do to get it off.


Here it is before, with colour matched duct tape





The new cover





And the finished product





That's it for now. I just updated my list in my original post and it's almost complete. Not a bad couple months.


Happy New Year AZ and all it's members.

[Wrath And Tears]

It looks great man! good job. In hindsight it would have been easier if I just sent you the foam with the bottom still attached, but would have cost god knows how much in shipping. Although it looks like your seat foam was way less worn than mine so probably a good thing in the end. Envious of your sound system, I'm still running stock with an aftermarket head.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Looks good where did u get the cover from? I need one or S4 seats.

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

[Wrath And Tears]

I recently replaced my seats from a car with newer seats. I saw pringle needed a cover so I stripped my passenger seat cover for him. My drivers seat had a rip, part of the reason for the upgrade. I plan to start going to pick and pull at some point on the hunt for sports seats. At which point I'll make a post to see if anyone needs leatherette seat bottoms.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

I have tan seats that my problem

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

[A4INGS]

That's hilarious! I replaced my rear speakers, installed a sub, and installed a new drivers side seat bottom last week. Good work!

[PringlesInVic]

It looks great man! good job. In hindsight it would have been easier if I just sent you the foam with the bottom still attached, but would have cost god knows how much in shipping. Although it looks like your seat foam was way less worn than mine so probably a good thing in the end. Envious of your sound system, I'm still running stock with an aftermarket head.

Ya, I think USPS would have made a mint on shipping the whole pad. The cover worked great. Thanks again.

That's hilarious! I replaced my rear speakers, installed a sub, and installed a new drivers side seat bottom last week. Good work!

Lol, that is hilarious.

[PringlesInVic]

Mondays....

[Turbo_B5]

Any plans to swap out the steering wheel? I didn't know anyone ran those on purpose. haha.

[PringlesInVic]

Ya, you really don't see anybody using them do you. I've got a couple feelers out for a sport wheel. None of the PnP's around here have any interior parts, none in any useable condition that is. Hopefully something will come up soon.

[Turbo_B5]

Ya, you really don't see anybody using them do you. I've got a couple feelers out for a sport wheel. None of the PnP's around here have any interior parts, none in any useable condition that is. Hopefully something will come up soon.

I have a mint condition sport steering wheel in my 97 if it fits and your interested. I am in alberta too.

[PringlesInVic]

Update.

It's Wheel Wednesday...


So with King_'s prompting (possibly teasing) I grabbed a Sport Wheel locally for $75 including airbag. Actually it was the same guy I bought the door off of. It's in pretty good shape, I think I may give it a dye as it is greyer in the typical wear areas. I think the price is pretty good. Feels nice in the hands and looks 100x better.


Here she is installed (I really need floor mats lol)




The other half of my Wheel Wednesday are some Mille Miglia Evo5's that I picked up due to my Monday problem. They were almost as cheap as the Sport Steering Wheel. $100 for all 4 wheels with tires. Tires have good life left in them, wheels have been curbed a bit. All said and done though, I'm really happy to get rid of the daisy's. They're 17's and the tires have a bit of stretch on the wider wheels. Best part was that they came off of another B5, so they already had the correct hub centric rings and longer lugs. Everything bolted up nice and easy.


Quick shot. Car is really dirty.




I'll get a better picture when I wash it this weekend.

Now I really need coilovers. The overall diameter is about 1/2" less than what was on there, and I feel I have abnormally larger FTG than most. It really needs moar low. Well with money saved on wheels and tires, perhaps they're not to far away.

[PringlesInVic]

Quick update.

Got some time this morning to wash it. Also took the car to the tire shop for a quick balance. One of the wheels has a flat spot, not a big deal. They balanced them the best they could and the ride is better. Still not bad for $100 wheels and tires.


Also stopped at my neighbours PnP and he just got a 99.5 Silver 2.8 with a lot of great parts. Got a full size passenger mirror. But may go back with my truck and load up lol.


Here she is washed up with new wheels.







Some of you may also notice that I fixed the bumper gap.

[PringlesInVic]

So after my wash yesterday, I noticed a sound that I can only best describe as static in my steering. When turning the wheel lock to lock, there's a sound like static. Almost as if there sand or grit in the rack as it's moving. Anybody ever experience this? Suggestions? Solutions?

Also, when I swapped wheels, I noticed significant play in the front driver side hub/bearing. Is this a sign of needing to replace wheel bearing? Should I replace the hub at the same time, as I've heard it can be rather impossible to separate the two?

Thanks in advance.

[Turbo_B5]

check for broken rack boots? Hubs are like $400 you reuse thouse.

[PringlesInVic]

Lol. A little embarrassing, but I figured out the steering sound. My Podi pod came loose and was rubbing against the back of the wheel. All fixed.

$400 for a hub! Jebus. I assume that's Lordco/Napa pricing? There like $60 on ECS for Meyle brand front hub Link


More research to do.

Oh, looks like I have to fix my bumper again. Bumper got caught on a wheel stop as I was backing up. More damage than before, hopefully it's an easy fix. Frustrating

[Turbo_B5]

Lol. A little embarrassing, but I figured out the steering sound. My Podi pod came loose and was rubbing against the back of the wheel. All fixed.

$400 for a hub! Jebus. I assume that's Lordco/Napa pricing? There like $60 on ECS for Meyle brand front hub Link


More research to do.

Oh, looks like I have to fix my bumper again. Bumper got caught on a wheel stop as I was backing up. More damage than before, hopefully it's an easy fix. Frustrating

nah that's Audi.

[gg3000gt]

Cars looking great, any plans on (upgrading) to the one piece headlights they look sooooo much better.

[PringlesInVic]

Cars looking great, any plans on (upgrading) to the one piece headlights they look sooooo much better.

Thanks! Yes, for sure some 1-piece headlights on are on my list. I'm thinking about some Depo e-codes with an HID kit. But at this point coilovers are my priority, so they'll have to wait for now. I need more low.


And wow, there's quite a difference in price between front and rear hubs. I can understand now why people do what they can to press the bearings out.

[PringlesInVic]

Quick update. Swapped out the dinky little mini mirror from the passenger door. Installed a full size mirror from a Facelift car. Audi really baffles me on this one. Why would they ever let the car leave the factory looking like that. Oh well, problem solved.

Here she is.

[Sickws6]

Good start, needs lowered badly.

[PringlesInVic]

Good start, needs lowered badly.

Thanks! And tell me about it, like I said Coilovers are at the top of my list.

[Turbo_B5]

Thanks! And tell me about it, like I said Coilovers are at the top of my list.

What coilovers are you looking at?

[PringlesInVic]

I'd like ST's, but considering my small budget I think I'll end up with Solo-Werks.

I don't plan to go slammed. Just low enough, I don't want to have to deal with rolling my fenders.

I wish I had ordered them from ECS when they were only $449 (plus a $50 mail-in rebate), but Christmas bonus sucked. Oh well.

[Turbo_B5]

I'd like ST's, but considering my small budget I think I'll end up with Solo-Werks.

I don't plan to go slammed. Just low enough, I don't want to have to deal with rolling my fenders.

I wish I had ordered them from ECS when they were only $449 (plus a $50 mail-in rebate), but Christmas bonus sucked. Oh well.

I love my sts. have you Pmed chris@fifteen52? he gives great prices.

[PringlesInVic]

I love my sts. have you Pmed chris@fifteen52? he gives great prices.

That seems to be the general consensus around here. ST's are the best Bang for Buck. Solo-Werks also seem to have really good reviews, and the price is right.

I'm trying to sell of some guitar gear to pay for them. We shall see what happens.