5 Year Plan: An introduction, build and resurrection thread

[Believer]

A few graphs as promised. This was a 2-3 pull, not carrying 3rd all the way out because I was coming up on some slow movers. I'm new to graphing this data so if I should be presenting it differently feel free to educate.

I wasn't able to get as many pulls as I wanted this morning. I'm going to log more on the drive home and hopefully have some better looking pulls. The temperature is also significantly cooler now than it was this morning

[Murph_129]

A few graphs as promised. This was a 2-3 pull, not carrying 3rd all the way out because I was coming up on some slow movers. I'm new to graphing this data so if I should be presenting it differently feel free to educate.

I wasn't able to get as many pulls as I wanted this morning. I'm going to log more on the drive home and hopefully have some better looking pulls. The temperature is also significantly cooler now than it was this morning

Just a general question for really anyone. But why does the boost spike once the throttle is released? Is that the second right before the D.V. opens?

[Believer]

I noticed that as well. I need to look at my throttle plate action in the log to see if it's that. I am running the N249 valve, which in theory is supposed to open the DV faster and prevent that spike.

[Murph_129]

I noticed that as well. I need to look at my throttle plate action in the log to see if it's that. I am running the N249 valve, which in theory is supposed to open the DV faster and prevent that spike.

Yea. Reason I ask is because sometimes (hard to replicate because I don't know the exact conditions) when letting off the throttle quickly right after your WOT or really accelerating. I'll get a boost spike that I can physically feel because the car lurches. I've seen others say they have experienced it.. Just not sure why.

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[Believer]

Yea. Reason I ask is because sometimes (hard to replicate because I don't know the exact conditions) when letting off the throttle quickly right after your WOT or really accelerating. I'll get a boost spike that I can physically feel because the car lurches. I've seen others say they have experienced it.. Just not sure why.

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I would say generally that spike is from the diverter valve not reacting fast enough when the throttle plate closes. Is your DV stock?

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[Believer]

I'm seeking some assistance with an issue I'm having. I am just looking for some direction on troubleshooting.

My car will not pass SAI or EVAP readiness. SAI is deleted so I expect that wouldn't pass. EVAP however is fully in tact. There are no leaks in the system, my check valves are good and I have no codes being thrown. I have driven roughly 300 miles since my last ECU reset and can still not achieve a pass on that monitor. I originally had my vacuum configuration like the schematic that Metal Man posted but in search of getting this monitor to pass I reconfigured the system to reflect a schematic I found in Walky's vacuum cleanup thread. The only thing delete is SAI.

I have tried running the VAGCOM procedure to force readiness for EVAP using Basic Settings on block 70. The test will simply not kick off.

Unfortunately being in NJ and having an 01+ vehicle I can only have one readiness monitor fail.

Hoping someone with more knowledge and a more keen troubleshooting mind will be able to assist.

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[Believer]

Couple of photos from a few things i've done recently

Replaced the injector seats - of course I didn't snap an after shot.



This one almost didn't come out. All of them had cracks.



Cleaned the entire interior. Vacuumed up most of what was on the carpets then hit them with a rug doctor. Also rug doctored the sport cloth seats.



After some serious vacuuming





My attempt at being artsy



How it sits today. I am not happy with the ride height but my rear coilovers are completely stuck. I've tried many rounds of penetrating oil and vinegar without luck. At this point i'm considering cutting the collar off and replacing it.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

I'm seeking some assistance with an issue I'm having. I am just looking for some direction on troubleshooting.

My car will not pass SAI or EVAP readiness. SAI is deleted so I expect that wouldn't pass. EVAP however is fully in tact. There are no leaks in the system, my check valves are good and I have no codes being thrown. I have driven roughly 300 miles since my last ECU reset and can still not achieve a pass on that monitor. I originally had my vacuum configuration like the schematic that Metal Man posted but in search of getting this monitor to pass I reconfigured the system to reflect a schematic I found in Walky's vacuum cleanup thread. The only thing delete is SAI.

I have tried running the VAGCOM procedure to force readiness for EVAP using Basic Settings on block 70. The test will simply not kick off.

Unfortunately being in NJ and having an 01+ vehicle I can only have one readiness monitor fail.

Hoping someone with more knowledge and a more keen troubleshooting mind will be able to assist.

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Do they have a Test for it in NJ or do you have a CEL? Im in MD and they have a smog we go through every 2 years with my car being an 01 too I did this SAI delete ect, I have motoza tuning too no cats and Dave "coded" or whatever all that stuff out for me. In MD they just plug in the OBDII and run the car as long as nothing shows up and you dont have a cel you past, we also have to have 100 + miles on the ecu after the last reset.

not sure if this will help but its what I did. good luck.

[Believer]

Do they have a Test for it in NJ or do you have a CEL? Im in MD and they have a smog we go through every 2 years with my car being an 01 too I did this SAI delete ect, I have motoza tuning too no cats and Dave "coded" or whatever all that stuff out for me. In MD they just plug in the OBDII and run the car as long as nothing shows up and you dont have a cel you past, we also have to have 100 + miles on the ecu after the last reset.

not sure if this will help but its what I did. good luck.

So in NJ they plug into the car to check for two things; Readiness and to check for codes (check engine light). I've put hundreds of miles on the car and cannot get EVAP readiness to set. The weirdest thing about it all is that there are NO codes being thrown for either SAI or EVAP but the readiness monitors will simply not set. In Jersey you are only allowed to have 1 readiness monitor fail/not set for all 01+ vehicles else you will not pass inspection. I really have no idea why this is happening.

[MetalMan]

Do you have VCDS or access to it? You can use it to try to force readiness. Otherwise I too am curious why your EVAP readiness won't set.
When you say there are no codes for SAI or EVAP, are there any other codes?

[Believer]

Do you have VCDS or access to it? You can use it to try to force readiness. Otherwise I too am curious why your EVAP readiness won't set.
When you say there are no codes for SAI or EVAP, are there any other codes?

I do have VCDS and did try to force readiness but it would not start the test. there's been other developments though.

I had been having quite a few odd issues since flashing Dave's files which included highly touchy throttle, bucking when going into reverse, timing oscillation at part throttle cruising, the EVAP readiness and hard cold starts.

Dave suggested unplugging the MAF to rule out a metered air issue. The car wouldn't even turn over with it unplugged. This lead him to suspect a MAP issue. Since I was running the 3 BAR there is a lot of scaling that has to happen because of how much references the MAP values.

So he had me swap in my 2.5 BAR MAP and sent me a file for it. As of last night every single one of the issues I listed above were resolved, EVAP readiness even passed. Though I did get a code for incorrect flow, which I was not getting before. I'm thinking the purge valve may be on the fritz. Going to swap it out and go from there.

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[MetalMan]

Wow, crazy. The logs make it appear the 3bar MAP sensor was working correctly, no? With the engine not running, was the 3bar MAP reporting the same pressure as the barometric (ambient) pressure sensor?

Want me to send you my last [good] 91 octane/3" MAF/550cc/stock MAP/4bar FPR/deleted-SAI/rear-O2-coded-out file, just as another thing to "try"? Granted it's for F21-non-MF, but I think our setups are similar enough that it could work. And it's free.

[Believer]

Wow, crazy. The logs make it appear the 3bar MAP sensor was working correctly, no? With the engine not running, was the 3bar MAP reporting the same pressure as the barometric (ambient) pressure sensor?

Want me to send you my last [good] 91 octane/3" MAF/550cc/stock MAP/4bar FPR/deleted-SAI/rear-O2-coded-out file, just as another thing to "try"? Granted it's for F21-non-MF, but I think our setups are similar enough that it could work. And it's free.

Dave was not able to see the issues in the logs. Because there are many things that reference the MAP values there was something I guess was missed for scaling.

Good question on what it reported not running, I honestly never looked.

Thanks for the offer on the file. I'm not sure what my FPR is, whatever stock is. I think I'm good though - the file Dave gave me yesterday for the 2.5 MAP is working flawlessly. I will speak with him Monday to see what direction we'll head in next.

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[MetalMan]

Stock FPR is 4bar. If you do change your mind, just shoot me a PM . Hope Dave can resolve the issue for you! (especially if I upgrade to 3bar MAP).

[Believer]

Stock FPR is 4bar. If you do change your mind, just shoot me a PM . Hope Dave can resolve the issue for you! (especially if I upgrade to 3bar MAP).

Thanks man, I really appreciate your support

I'm still giggling over how much better the throttle and partial throttle response is. This whole time I was just chalking it up to me not being adapted to DBW lol.

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[Believer]

Still on the 2.5 bar MAP but nearing maxing it out. Will eventually switch back to the 3 bar once Dave is able to figure out what in the software was causing issues.

Little run from yesterday afternoon - pulls well

[RedDefiance]

Looking good man! Love the Type E's, i rock them on my MK3.

[Believer]

Looking good man! Love the Type E's, i rock them on my MK3.

Thanks man! Mine need a very mild space to really set them off. Interestingly when I had a MK3 the E's were always what I wanted. Funny that it was on my B5 that I finally got them.

[MetalMan]

It's been a couple months since your last update, what's new?
I recall you had a turbo issue; any resolution?
Also I just inquired to Dave/Motoza about a hardware upgrade... I now have I.E. rods installed and a Bosch 3bar MAP sensor ready.

Did Dave ever manage to get the 3bar MAP working?

[Believer]

It's been a couple months since your last update, what's new?
I recall you had a turbo issue; any resolution?
Also I just inquired to Dave/Motoza about a hardware upgrade... I now have I.E. rods installed and a Bosch 3bar MAP sensor ready.

Did Dave ever manage to get the 3bar MAP working?

Hey man - thanks for checking in!

Honestly life has been pretty busy and I haven't really had much going on worthy of posting lol..

So upon pulling the turbo it was discovered the exhaust turbine contacted the housing, chipping one of the fins.

Doug's team was not able to identify the root cause and promptly shipped my turbo back with a new center after his inspection. Great customer service from Doug on the issue.

Lately I've put my winter wheels on, got the car aligned, and replaced the fuel filter. While under the car I discovered all 3 output flanges from the transmission are leaking and the 3 flanges on the rear differential are also leaking.

My oil consumption is a major concern. On my current change, running LiquiMoly 0w40, I've consumed a quart in 2k miles. I have a new pcv valve on order since that item was reused from the old car. If that doesn't resolve my issue I am fairly certain the valve stem seals must be failed. The head was also reused from the old car which had the exact same consumption problem: letting out a puff of smoke when taking off after decelerating to a stop. A compression check is in order as well to verify things on that front look good.

As far as my tune, I have not sent Dave a log since I've put the new turbo on due to the holiday and other general busyness. There are still plans to utilize the 3bar map once I get a few maintenance things taken care of.

Since we are running similar set ups sans e85, I'm excited to hear about the contrast between the pre and post rod tuning. Perhaps some logs!

Cheers 🍺


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[GOODBYNAAIR]

Man sound like you got a few things to work out. I recommend 5w40 over 0 and rottela t6 is awsome I'm sure you have heard about it.

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[Believer]

Man sound like you got a few things to work out. I recommend 5w40 over 0 and rottela t6 is awsome I'm sure you have heard about it.

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Yea.. There's a few things for sure. The drive train issues are a little more minor but still a long term concern. Like I said the oil consumption is my largest concern.

My thinking in going with the 0 was to be nicer on the motor in the cold. Anecdotally I seem to be consuming oil at a faster rate with the 0 vs the 5. I already planned on switching back. I used to run Rotella for several reasons but stopped because I read it has a high zinc count which if burned can clog the cat. Is there truth to this? If not I may switch back because it certainly is cheaper than the Liqui Moly.

I appreciate all the input!

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[MetalMan]

Glad to hear Doug took care of you! And thanks for the update.

Over my "winter break" while the engine was out and head off, I replaced valve stem seals. That was a fun job without the proper tools but still managed. One of the cyl. #4 valve stem seals was actually detached from the valve guide, and therefore the valve guide itself was the only thing "sealing" oil from entering the combustion chamber in that instance. Rest of the stem seals had enlarged valve openings.

It looks like Dave might not have Molly as a coordinator currently. Sent in my log yesterday and semi-expected a quick response from Molly, but received nothing. On their Facebook page it says they're looking for a coordinator.

Thinking about filling up with 91 octane today to take a quick break from E85. The E85 seems to leave behind a black tar-like substance on the intake valves and intake manifold. I cleaned it off all the valves while they were out but apparently regular gas is supposed to be able to eat away at the stuff.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Yea.. There's a few things for sure. The drive train issues are a little more minor but still a long term concern. Like I said the oil consumption is my largest concern.

My thinking in going with the 0 was to be nicer on the motor in the cold. Anecdotally I seem to be consuming oil at a faster rate with the 0 vs the 5. I already planned on switching back. I used to run Rotella for several reasons but stopped because I read it has a high zinc count which if burned can clog the cat. Is there truth to this? If not I may switch back because it certainly is cheaper than the Liqui Moly.

I appreciate all the input!

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I dont know about the high zinc count? That is something I may look into just good to know whats in my car. And what is this Cat you speak of lol.

[Believer]

I dont know about the high zinc count? That is something I may look into just good to know whats in my car. And what is this Cat you speak of lol.

Haha yea it's a high flow cat. I had it from my previous car and a test pipe wasn't in the budget so I rolled with it.

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[Believer]

Glad to hear Doug took care of you! And thanks for the update.

Over my "winter break" while the engine was out and head off, I replaced valve stem seals. That was a fun job without the proper tools but still managed. One of the cyl. #4 valve stem seals was actually detached from the valve guide, and therefore the valve guide itself was the only thing "sealing" oil from entering the combustion chamber in that instance. Rest of the stem seals had enlarged valve openings.

It looks like Dave might not have Molly as a coordinator currently. Sent in my log yesterday and semi-expected a quick response from Molly, but received nothing. On their Facebook page it says they're looking for a coordinator.

Thinking about filling up with 91 octane today to take a quick break from E85. The E85 seems to leave behind a black tar-like substance on the intake valves and intake manifold. I cleaned it off all the valves while they were out but apparently regular gas is supposed to be able to eat away at the stuff.

I missed your reply here..

I also saw the Facebook posting for a coordinator. Molly was great! I hope she's not gone for good and instead just bringing on someone additional.

How's the car feel on the 91?

I have a little update of my own with some not so good news.

I noticed the other day my oil dipstick was pushed out a bit from the tube. I replaced my PCV valve since that item was brought over from my previous car. I also hoped the PCV valve was bad and would be the cause for my oil consumption.

Well, last night I ran a compression test on the motor because I needed to know and my Audi tech buddy kept pressing me to do it.

The numbers came back very concerning - 130, 120, 100, 120. These are warm, dry numbers. Adding oil to the cylinders did not change the numbers, however. The car had been driven for an hour but did sit for about 40 minutes before I ran the test. There is also some question about the validity of the tester I got from AutoZone (it's in not so great shape) and so I will be retesting the compression tonight with truly hot motor and a different tester

If my rings are in fact bad, I am at a complete loss as to how. My gaps weren't THAT big (C1 - .020", C2 - .018") and I had the bores measured to make sure they were good before moving forward with the build. Unfortunately my Goatze rings came out of the box with that gap so that's what I had to roll with. My other thought is that something is up with my head but that would be confusing as well because it was rebuilt with brand new everything, except the came chain, about 60-70k miles ago.

I'll post back with another update once the compression test is rerun.

[Believer]

Follow up to my last update. Compression numbers with a proper gauge came back good. 185, 165, 190, 192. Number 2 is a bit concerning but it is still pretty decent. Is it worth trying to re-ring that cylinder?

I was experiencing high crank case pressure, evidenced by the dip stick being pushed out of the tube and a cam seal leak that suddenly appeared. I replaced the PCV valve so I hope that will solve my high pressure issue. I won't know until I can drive the car.
I discovered yesterday that my passenger rear brake caliper had leaking pretty heavily from the seal for the parking brake actuator arm. I opted to purchase a reman caliper which should be in tomorrow.

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[MetalMan]

I missed your reply here..

I also saw the Facebook posting for a coordinator. Molly was great! I hope she's not gone for good and instead just bringing on someone additional.

How's the car feel on the 91?

I missed your reply too.
E85 is quite addicting, and I'm anticipating the next revision [with E85 changes] any time now, so switching to 91 octane is on hold for the time being.

Besides, Dave ought to be sending me a PayPal invoice for 3bar MAP sensor upgrade soon! I think after increased boost/torque tuning for upgraded rods I'll really not want to ever switch back to 91 octane

Speaking of 3bar MAP, any news on that front for you?

Follow up to my last update. Compression numbers with a proper gauge came back good. 185, 165, 190, 192. Number 2 is a bit concerning but it is still pretty decent. Is it worth trying to re-ring that cylinder?

I was experiencing high crank case pressure, evidenced by the dip stick being pushed out of the tube and a cam seal leak that suddenly appeared. I replaced the PCV valve so I hope that will solve my high pressure issue. I won't know until I can drive the car.

Interesting that your first compression results were so much lower. I had a similar situation, which was due to using a "compression tester extension".
In your prior post you mentioned that adding oil didn't change the compression numbers. Is that still the case here, especially including for cyl 2?

Hope your apparent high crankcase pressure issue (and excess oil consumption) will be gone!

[Believer]

I missed your reply too.
E85 is quite addicting, and I'm anticipating the next revision [with E85 changes] any time now, so switching to 91 octane is on hold for the time being.

Besides, Dave ought to be sending me a PayPal invoice for 3bar MAP sensor upgrade soon! I think after increased boost/torque tuning for upgraded rods I'll really not want to ever switch back to 91 octane

I can only imagine how bad ass it is from all the stories and dyno charts i've seen. Wish we had it readily available around here. We do have 93 though so I guess I can't really complain all that much.

Speaking of 3bar MAP, any news on that front for you?

I actually have not sent Dave a log since getting the new turbo on. Besides the issues i've touched on it has been running really great from the tuning perspective. After I come back from vacation I will probably get some logs to him and then start talking about getting me on the 3 BAR sensor. I'm curious how much more this turbo can really be pushed from where i'm at now ~20 psi.

Interesting that your first compression results were so much lower. I had a similar situation, which was due to using a "compression tester extension".
In your prior post you mentioned that adding oil didn't change the compression numbers. Is that still the case here, especially including for cyl 2?

I am chalking the first numbers up to a few things: First I did the test with the throttle body closed. When we retested, we propped it open. Second, the gauge from Autozone was missing a sealing o-ring for inside the cylinder hole. I think this combo of errors is what gave me such low readings.

We actually did not add oil to number 2 on our second test. Reason being we wanted to move on to a leak down test as fast as possible while the motor was still warm. We did determine through the leak down test that the air was escaping around the rings on 2.

Hope your apparent high crankcase pressure issue (and excess oil consumption) will be gone!

Thanks man. I will be monitoring it closely during this oil change. I switched off the 0w40 LiquiMoly back to 5w40 to see if the slightly heavier cold weight will have any affect on it burning oil.

[MetalMan]

It's about 2.5 months, anything new?

I hadn't heard back from Dave about tune upgrade / 3 bar MAP sensor... so emailed him yesterday about it, and today he said that they've already got the code for AWM to implement 3bar MAP! Also wondering if he's given you a *working* 3bar MAP tune.

[Believer]

Hey Travis - I can always count on you to check in on me! 2.5 months, time flies when you're... busy lol.

Not a whole lot to update on. I've replaced some parts lately: primary o2 sensor was going out. I believe it was in a failing state for a lot of my tuning with Dave because when it was replaced the tune was pulling out 13% fuel.

Replaced a failing URO coolant temp sensor with a new OE unit.

I had semi-catastrophic failure of a front caliper, it seized up while driving. Rotor got mighty hot, pad was smoking. Wasn't fun but I replaced both front calipers with reman units.

Also discovered my serpentine belt was shredding at a shirt usage of only 10k miles. Replaced that also with an OE unit instead of the continental. I need to get a belly pan on my car to keep dirt and debris out of the bay, which is likely what caused it to fail.



On the tuning front after getting the failing sensors squared away I've received a few revisions from Dave just bumping up the timing and smoothing things out in the upper revs. We are trying to iron out this issue where I'm breaking up around 6500 rpm. Its not misfiring but pulling timing. Once I keep in it it smooths out at about 6700 rpm and pulls hard right to 7k. I am working on proving a theory that it is a load related issue, so pulling up hill the issue occurs.

I also recently reminded Dave I would like to switch back to the 3Bar sensor to see what else we can do. As it is right now I'm hitting about 270 g/s on the MAF above 6k. Still waiting to hear back from him on this. I have some data logs from my most recent tune I'll graph up and post for anyone who may want to see.

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[Cgoon009]

lOVE THIS THREAD

[Believer]

lOVE THIS THREAD

Thank you sir! This thread loves you.

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[Believer]

So in my last update I indicated I was having issues breaking up in the high revs. I had worked back and forth with Dave to try and iron it out but it was never really right.

Fast forward to about a week ago I'm driving along, tip in to the throttle and boom, it starts breaking up. After a certain load threshold the car would just break up.

I had a spare MAF that I tossed in to rule that out. Checked plug gaps, boost leak test, all was good. No check engine lights at all from the 'breaking up' so I ruled out misfires. Now my attention is on to fuel. I got a log sent to Dave @ Motoza and he agreed that I was on the right track with fuel.

I ordered a new fuel pump and slapped that in Friday evening. Get everything buttoned up, roll out to test and... The same thing is happening.

A friend who is a Master Audi Tech suggested to use VCDS to log misfire counts. It seemed silly to me being that Motoza's logger wasn't picking up misfires but I tried it anyway.

What do you know, at a certain load, cylinder 4 is missing. I move the coil to another cylinder and the misfires follow. Luckily I had some spare 1.8t coils in my parts stock to swap in and I'm back to normal.

For all those using Motoza - do not trust his logger to tell you if misfires are happening. Sont trust your CEL to tell you a misfire is happening. Had I been wise and used VCDS from the get-go, I would have saved myself an incredible amount of stress.

On the bright side, I now have a brand new S4 fuel pump and won't have to worry about that crapping out on me for a long while to come.

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[jaychen]

Awesome garage. im jealous of it.

[Believer]

Awesome garage. im jealous of it.

Thanks man. It was a primary reason I wanted to buy the place 👍

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[GOODBYNAAIR]

So in my last update I indicated I was having issues breaking up in the high revs. I had worked back and forth with Dave to try and iron it out but it was never really right.

Fast forward to about a week ago I'm driving along, tip in to the throttle and boom, it starts breaking up. After a certain load threshold the car would just break up.

I had a spare MAF that I tossed in to rule that out. Checked plug gaps, boost leak test, all was good. No check engine lights at all from the 'breaking up' so I ruled out misfires. Now my attention is on to fuel. I got a log sent to Dave @ Motoza and he agreed that I was on the right track with fuel.

I ordered a new fuel pump and slapped that in Friday evening. Get everything buttoned up, roll out to test and... The same thing is happening.

A friend who is a Master Audi Tech suggested to use VCDS to log misfire counts. It seemed silly to me being that Motoza's logger wasn't picking up misfires but I tried it anyway.

What do you know, at a certain load, cylinder 4 is missing. I move the coil to another cylinder and the misfires follow. Luckily I had some spare 1.8t coils in my parts stock to swap in and I'm back to normal.

For all those using Motoza - do not trust his logger to tell you if misfires are happening. Sont trust your CEL to tell you a misfire is happening. Had I been wise and used VCDS from the get-go, I would have saved myself an incredible amount of stress.

On the bright side, I now have a brand new S4 fuel pump and won't have to worry about that crapping out on me for a long while to come.

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I had a very similar thing happen to me but it was the wire that goes to the pins on the connector to the coil pack was loss. It had me going for a few days. glad you found it and got a new FP!

[Believer]

I had a very similar thing happen to me but it was the wire that goes to the pins on the connector to the coil pack was loss. It had me going for a few days. glad you found it and got a new FP!

Yepp - definitely had me going!! We found metal shavings in the spot where the pump sits when the old one was removed. I'd say it was about overdue

[HUFset]

Want me to send you my last [good] 91 octane/3" MAF/550cc/stock MAP/4bar FPR/deleted-SAI/rear-O2-coded-out file, just as another thing to "try"? Granted it's for F21-non-MF, but I think our setups are similar enough that it could work. And it's free.

I'll take it for a whirl. Do you still have it saved somewhere?

[MetalMan]

I'll take it for a whirl. Do you still have it saved somewhere?

Want me to send you my last [good] 91 octane/3" MAF/550cc/stock MAP/4bar FPR/deleted-SAI/rear-O2-coded-out file, just as another thing to "try"? Granted it's for F21-non-MF, but I think our setups are similar enough that it could work. And it's free.

That was 6 months ago lol.
I went back through my records, and the file I have which matches this description is my original base tune, which was incorrectly set for 3" MAF (at the time I was still running stock MAF housing). This file had some issues that were later resolved as well, so I can't guarantee it will work well. Still interested?