The Infiltrators Build Thread

[The Infiltrator]

Well I took the front bumper and piping off and found a little oil as expected.

@lettuce

As lettuce explained in the post above, it might have been from my oil catch-can over filled. The thing is, I've had it off for two months since I've been doing Stage I of the oil consumption process. Has anyone had an issue with their catch-can or stock PVC doing this??







All put back together and cleaned up. Going to take it down the road later to see how it runs.


Update: I've been driving it for two days and it's back to normal as expected. Just a little catch can video.

[JeriQo]

stoppin by this page again to get inspired!

[The Infiltrator]

stoppin by this page again to get inspired!

Ha, thanks man.

Lets get that color DIS and 3G retrofit going. IHave2Turbos is in the works and building a nice little write up.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...MMI3G-Retrofit

[Lambda13]

stoppin by this page again to get inspired!

Inspired to trade your car in for a proper one with AWD?

[JeriQo]

Inspired to trade your car in for a proper one with AWD?

Lol not quite yet!

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[The Infiltrator]

Inspired to trade your car in for a proper one with AWD?

LOL, you guy's are ruthess.

[The Infiltrator]

Well, I picked up my car from getting the Stage II oil consumption done and it survived the hurrican. I'm very pleased and it feels a little more solid, it's hard to explain but it just feels better than before and we will see how this runs for 500 miles before putting my tune back on. They also fixed my broken turbo flange bolt for me, so that's pretty bad ass of them. It must have been losing power because this thing feels like it's almost on the stage 2 program and the rpm rise is smooth with the acceleration. It's like I have a new car and I couldn't be happier!





They changed my oil drain plug to this one too. Okay? lol


Also had a few codes be thrown at me after pushing it just a little heading to work. I guess the tech didn't tighten the clamp down well enough, it's weird too because I figured it would happen. It's like I saw the future.

[The Infiltrator]

B8.5 Climate Control Retrofit:

Links:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ntrols-to-B8-5
http://www.a5oc.com/forums/a5-perfor...ml#post1143322

Thanks @JohnnySV & @avantagg





Climate Control eBay price: $109

eBay Seller: LKQ

Part Number: 8K1820043T (Dual Zone)


FOR 3G/3G+

Go to Climate Control in VCDS, then Go to Adaption:
- Channel 79: Change from 1 to 0 (This changes the LIN-Bus from the blower unit from new to old generation. This is why the fan control speed didn't work for people)
- Channel 35: 0 or 1 (Depends if you have the humidity sensor in the inside mirror)
- Channel 85: Change from 0 to 1 (VFL/FL related)

Changes:
Instead of 6 settings, it's now 3 for heated seats
Screen is now white
Different button layout

[avantagg]

COMING SOON:

Color Climate Control Retrofit:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ntrols-to-B8-5
http://www.a5oc.com/forums/a5-perfor...ml#post1143322

Thanks @JohnnySV & @avantagg

Yeoow! Teamwork. Super cool mod to complete a 3G+ swap. Glad we got it figured out.

[The Infiltrator]

Yeoow! Teamwork. Super cool mod to complete a 3G+ swap. Glad we got it figured out.

Yes! I can't wait to get this in and be done with the interior other than getting S-Line seats.

[4ringnut]

When are you doing a 3.0T swap?

[The Infiltrator]

When are you doing a 3.0T swap?

Ha, as soon as you come help me install one.

[Poodini]

BBK Upgrade Thread: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Upgrade-Review

VCDS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHJMI4QkSy8

Front Big Brake Kit (The brake lines that come with it will be for sale): Ordered
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4...e_2/ES2730473/
http://www.stockwiseauto.com/centric...disc-brake-pad
http://www.amazon.com/Brembo-Caliper...s+%28Silver%29

Since I already have Stoptech SS lines and use DOT 4 brake fluid, I essentially need the calipers, rotors, and pads correct?


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[The Infiltrator]

Yep, if you read through the BBK thread I think someone found the calipers on their own and it was cheaper. Then just grab the rotors from ECS and pads from the site I have listed.

[The Infiltrator]

Ultra Racing Upper Strut Bar:

The eBay seller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/152282436877...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Links:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...t=Ultra+Racing
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...race-installed

So I'll get straight to it, this things fitment wasn't great but worked. It may have been bent in transit or it's just how they made it, but the bar was twisted to where it had to be bolted down to twist it to the correct point. See picture below.

How it looked after being shipped halfway around the world. No damage and looked pretty good



The passanger side was flush for mounting

Not so much on the driver side, there's a nice gap (just before I tightened it down)

The twist in the bar woudn't allow me to install the provided washer and nut (it doesn't do anything anyway)

I added a washer to the ground point and that went down with no issue (I would add one otherwise the ground bolt will shred itself into the bar slot)

Both sides were cutting it close to even fit the width of the car


After it was all said and done, the final product. It tightened down as anything would and it looks great.







Update:

My suspension now feels complete and I wish I bought this years ago. It does tighten up the steering and cornering a decent amount when mixed with the upgraded sway bars, shock and springs. Money well spent and I recommend this product!


@blbroo you should have really pushed this on me more years ago when you did yours. It makes the setup whole.

[Zach L]

Maybe going back and forth tightening each side down gradually would help?? Either way, it should be doing it's job of stiffening even if it seems like a rudimentary piece. I'll be getting one of these UR tower bars soon. Their rear tie bar on the hand is a completely pointless waste of money.

Thanks for your in-depth reviews, howto's, and always a bunch of pics.

[The Infiltrator]

Maybe going back and forth tightening each side down gradually would help?? Either way, it should be doing it's job of stiffening even if it seems like a rudimentary piece. I'll be getting one of these UR tower bars soon. Their rear tie bar on the hand is a completely pointless waste of money.

Thanks for your in-depth reviews, howto's, and always a bunch of pics.

It went down without issue but it was just odd how it was bent like that. I'm curious if others had the same issue or never even noticed it.

[A4 Centaur]

Thanks for the updates on the ride!

[Marko S]

It went down without issue but it was just odd how it was bent like that. I'm curious if others had the same issue or never even noticed it.

I do recall the fitment for mine wasnt great either

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[The Infiltrator]

I do recall the fitment for mine wasnt great either

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

I'm sure they are all like this. Going to drive it for the first time since the install so we'll see if I notice a difference.

[gk404]

Infiltrator, just wanted to say thanks for all the detailed info on this tread.
It's all very helpful to a new Audi owner like me!

Cheers

[The Infiltrator]

Infiltrator, just wanted to say thanks for all the detailed info on this tread.
It's all very helpful to a new Audi owner like me!

Cheers

No problem, it's something I really enjoy doing. Welcome to the Audi family and I hope you enjoy your ride. Let the mods begin!

[The Infiltrator]

Well, after 6.5 years the original battery is finally done for.
Battery Link:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11777356

Battery I bought:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...l=a4&year=2010

Old:


New:


How to see your battery on your MMI screen:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post4481464

[Zach L]

Battery I'm looking at:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...l=a4&year=2010

It's gone down a bit since I bought mine in July. $160 to $150. Prices are mostly a function of lead input prices and transportation costs (expensive to transport due to weight) so price varies by location. It's all relative.

[The Infiltrator]

It's gone down a bit since I bought mine in July. $160 to $150. Prices are mostly a function of lead input prices and transportation costs (expensive to transport due to weight) so price varies by location. It's all relative.

Yeah this new one is 52lbs and the old one didn't say but felt about the same. A lot of weight added to the rear with that big ass thing! I finally got around to adding the battery to my MMI so I can see where it's at. Your post I refered to made me want to do it.

[jake101]

Christ almighty... I remember stopping by this thread a couple years back when I wasn't even a member and all I could think was damn, that's a ton of money. Stumbled upon your thread fortunately once again by your post you made on the B9 a4 thread. Really good to see that you're still modding. Your car is a beauty

[The Infiltrator]

Christ almighty... I remember stopping by this thread a couple years back when I wasn't even a member and all I could think was damn, that's a ton of money. Stumbled upon your thread fortunately once again by your post you made on the B9 a4 thread. Really good to see that you're still modding. Your car is a beauty

Thanks man! Yeah I've put too much into this thing but at least it's been fun and I still enjoy it. Hopefully if you have one or looking to buy you buy one loaded out so you don't have to do the same. Lol

[The Infiltrator]

I took my door apart when I got home last week, cleaning the door lock motor didn't work and can't find one so I said screw it and ordered a new one. $120 shipped (front left/drivers door). I had part number 8J1837015D and being replaced with 8J1837015F, they're the same thing. I finally got the part yesterday and threw it in, cleared the codes and it's back to normal.

Site I used:
http://parts.byersporsche.com/p/Pors...J1837015F.html

The cheapest site but didn't have it in stock:
https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...-LOCK-ACTUATOR

First look after taking the door card off, Audi's so fancy they use duck tape to hold stuff on.


Per the thread below, this is the issue to the doors not unlocking with FOB. For me cleaning it didn't work.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post12146111


Old to new:

[rolandoa1324]

I kinda have the same issue but my key fob closes all the doors except for my driver door, I have to lock mine with my key. I'm gonna try this hopefully it fixes my problem


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[The Infiltrator]

I kinda have the same issue but my key fob closes all the doors except for my driver door, I have to lock mine with my key. I'm gonna try this hopefully it fixes my problem


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Have you checked for codes yet? It should Code 02115 - Locking unit 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent.

[rolandoa1324]

42 Door Electronics Driver Side

System description: TSG FA
Software number: 8K0959793H
Software version: 0306
Hardware number: 8K0959793D
Hardware version: H11
Serial number: 0000009358276
Long coding: 011C03204000410001

Trouble codes:
02115 - Lock unit for central locking Implausible signal
static
Measurements:
4.8 °v.OT
Date: 2016-12-27 10:04:12
Frequency counter: 254
Mileage: 174979 km
Driving cycle: 77
Priority: 3




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[The Infiltrator]

42 Door Electronics Driver Side

System description: TSG FA
Software number: 8K0959793H
Software version: 0306
Hardware number: 8K0959793D
Hardware version: H11
Serial number: 0000009358276
Long coding: 011C03204000410001

Trouble codes:
02115 - Lock unit for central locking Implausible signal
static
Measurements:
4.8 °v.OT
Date: 2016-12-27 10:04:12
Frequency counter: 254
Mileage: 174979 km
Driving cycle: 77
Priority: 3




Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Yep, lock time. The link is in post #548 for the best price.

[The Infiltrator]

So I'm having an issue where metal sounds like it's flapping when I decelerate and it sounds like it's coming from the HFC. When I was looking around to see what else could be making the sound I noticed the waste gate rod and all of the connection parts are new on my turbo from when they did my Stage II oil consumption. Am I the only one that's been hooked up like this? And no, the new parts aren't making that sound, the sound's been making this sound for over a year now. No hp lose, no codes or any issues other than this rattle.

[A4 Centaur]

That is weird, almost sounds like valve float.

Check for cracks around the HFC? Mine was making noise and finally pegged it as a cracked weld.

Seriously, I can't even imagine what that noise could be without using a long screwdriver or stethoscope and listen up close.

[lettuce]

I have to say, I'm pretty sure that's the exact sound my old turbo made, which was caused by the loose wastegate flapper. Have you checked for play in the rod? It was loud enough that I could hear that exact sound when driving past guardrails or anything next to the road that could reflect the noise. I'd bet my left dick that's what it is.

[The Infiltrator]

That is weird, almost sounds like valve float.

Check for cracks around the HFC? Mine was making noise and finally pegged it as a cracked weld.

Seriously, I can't even imagine what that noise could be without using a long screwdriver or stethoscope and listen up close.

I checked for welds and everything around it that may be loose. I can't find anything that would make that sound. I even took the O2 sensors out to see if that was it, it wasn't.

I have to say, I'm pretty sure that's the exact sound my old turbo made, which was caused by the loose wastegate flapper. Have you checked for play in the rod? It was loud enough that I could hear that exact sound when driving past guardrails or anything next to the road that could reflect the noise. I'd bet my left dick that's what it is.

I thought that too but they replaced the rod and a few other parts on the turbo when they did my Stage II. It's been making this sound only on deceleration and it's been like this for over a year now even before the new parts. So it has me lean away from the flapper for that reason and I don't have any HP lose or codes. It's weird as hell but maybe this year I'll just finally do the K04 and then we'll know for sure.

[lettuce]

I thought that too but they replaced the rod and a few other parts on the turbo when they did my Stage II. It's been making this sound only on deceleration and it's been like this for over a year now even before the new parts. So it has me lean away from the flapper for that reason and I don't have any HP lose or codes. It's weird as hell but maybe this year I'll just finally do the K04 and then we'll know for sure.

Replacing the actuator rod won't do anything to fix this issue on these turbos, as the rod isn't the problem. It only making sound on deceleration is also exactly what happens when this is the cause. I never threw codes either and mine was pretty bad and on its second factory turbo due to this. You should check for rod play, any movement at all and that's your problem. Only takes a few seconds, just make sure your car's cooled down as you're sticking your fingers between exhaust manifold runners.

It's a design flaw on these turbos, it's not a matter of if it's a matter of when. I'd be surprised if most of the people reading this didn't have this very problem on their own factory turbos in some capacity as we speak. It's why Audi extended the warranty on them.

[The Infiltrator]

Replacing the actuator rod won't do anything to fix this issue on these turbos, as the rod isn't the problem. It only making sound on deceleration is also exactly what happens when this is the cause. I never threw codes either and mine was pretty bad and on its second factory turbo due to this. You should check for rod play, any movement at all and that's your problem. Only takes a few seconds, just make sure your car's cooled down as you're sticking your fingers between exhaust manifold runners.

It's a design flaw on these turbos, it's not a matter of if it's a matter of when. I'd be surprised if most of the people reading this didn't have this very problem on their own factory turbos in some capacity as we speak. It's why Audi extended the warranty on them.

It's solid with no back and forth movement, but the linkage moves around a little to make a metal sound going side to side. I don't really see movement on the connection to the flapper when going side to side though.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...lapper-(P0299)

[lettuce]

It's solid with no back and forth movement, but the linkage moves around a little to make a metal sound going side to side. I don't really see movement on the connection to the flapper when going side to side though.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...lapper-(P0299)

Mine didn't have any back and forth either, was all side to side (towards and away from the engine/cylinder head). The previous owner had performed a fix similar to the one in that thread, extending the length of the actuator rod slightly which made it taut front to back, but that would have only been a temporary band aid fix. If you unbolt the HFC and pull it back a couple inches enough to get your fingers into the turbo, you'll be able to grab the wastegaste itself and wiggle it around.

It sucks, there's no way to fix it. When I realized that was affecting my turbo it was what pushed me over the edge to upgrade. It'll be worth it though, don't worry.

[The Infiltrator]

Mine didn't have any back and forth either, was all side to side (towards and away from the engine/cylinder head). The previous owner had performed a fix similar to the one in that thread, extending the length of the actuator rod slightly which made it taut front to back, but that would have only been a temporary band aid fix. If you unbolt the HFC and pull it back a couple inches enough to get your fingers into the turbo, you'll be able to grab the wastegaste itself and wiggle it around.

It sucks, there's no way to fix it. When I realized that was affecting my turbo it was what pushed me over the edge to upgrade. It'll be worth it though, don't worry.

So there's no way to fix it huh? Well, it's either go APR, CTS or HPA with Snow Performance W/M. I've been watching and reading threads for a long time and still can't fully decide.

APR: Good numbers and on sale for $2700
http://www.goapr.com/products/turbo_...si_vl_k04.html

CTS: K04 and HFC on sale for $2159 without tune. Not sure what a tune alone would cost. Probably best to go with the APR setup.
http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/product...it-3639-0.html

OR

HPA: K04, IM, HFC, Tune and Dongle for $2549. Their tune is still in work and having people send them data logs to get it right. The numbers look good from the thread below, even on 92 octane but still makes me wonder with little testing. Could they get more power out of it in the end? Maybe, but with the intake manifold added, the numbers aren't going to be off by much from APR without an intake manifold. That's sad... So far.
http://www.hpamotorsports.com/product_k04.html
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ifold-K04-Tune


Snow Performance W/M: I'd get with either setup.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/sno...st-cooler.html