Removal:
The install Was Pretty easy, Had no issues putting in the new one, but removing the stock tube and sound box was a bit frustrating. Mainly just getting access to the 3 bolts that hold the tube to the frame. The sound box hides one of the bolts giving you about an 1-2" clearance to get a socket wrench in and the the others are just 2 high behind some tubing and the wheel well cover. I Removed several wheel well cover retainer clips and 1 bolt in order to give me some hand room to get the socket wrench and my hand in. Once I got the bolts out and tubing hoses disconnected I was able to remover the old sound box tube out through the bottom or the car. The tube got hung up a few times coming out because the stock tube had C-Brackets that hold cooling hoses in place. Simply pop the hoses out and away she comes.
Install:
To install the new tube you will need to remove the stock Rubber grommets and aluminum inserts that will mount to the new tube frame. Then remove the stock sensor that is mounted to stock tube with 2 torque screws. Then mount the sensor to the new tube with the new supplied Stainless Allen head screws. After all the stock components are mounted slide the new tube up from the bottom, bolt it in place which will be much easier now with no sound box and reconnect all the tubes and such. I had to replace one of the stock Intercooler tube clamps because there was not enough thread to tighten on to because the new tube pushed the hoses out a bit further. Luckily being a master plumber I had one in stock.
Review:
As of 12/7/13 I only had a little time to drive it around, but I did notice the throttle response was a bit quicker and with less hesitation. However I did notice that the boost gauge was lagging out A lot!? Not sure why it was causing the boost to spool slower, but I couldn't feel the difference in lose of boost, So I'll Have to take it out for another test drive soon.
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16 Old And Ugly VS Sleek and Sexy (Love the Powder Coating on this product)

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