replacing wastegate lines: diy? or anything?

[4ringAR]

Pretty darn certain my waste gate lines are torn somewhere. Im overboosting and its not the N75.

Is there any sort of DIY, pictures, or inspiring words anyone can share? I have no idea how Im going to get my hands down there. I still need to blow on each hose to determine which side is borked.

Im planning on taking the downpipes off anyways, to replace them with catless ones, any chance this will give me a better shot at this task, like going in from the rear maybe?

What size silicone hose should I get to replace the a torn one?

Not looking forward to this.

[hutchb2]

Driver's side is easy enough to access once you drop the motor mount bracket. Passenger side is whole different story. Typically, I think the answer is pull the motor...

[4ringAR]

#twosevenproblems

Fuckkkkk

[01audia4]

Driver's side is easy enough to access once you drop the motor mount bracket. Passenger side is whole different story. Typically, I think the answer is pull the motor...

Not true. I just did the passenger side. I didn't route into the metal tube though.

I dropped the sway bar took the old line off. Ran a new line up the inlet pipe and under the fuel rail. Took me a little under 2 hours.


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[airjawed]

I'm putting off this as well. I can hear something leaking on my passenger side...not sure if it is line or actuator. I feel like removing the inlet and motor mount would help access from the engine bay side. I am going to remove as much stuff as I can to give me the room to work. Till then I've decided to run off wastegate pressure(I've connected the wastegate line to the reference line directly at my N75). It leaks obviously still but boost is staying at 13psi for now until I get motivated and the weather cooperates....I still haven't done my trans mount either. I'll attack them at the same time when I have the car up.

[jballou]

Remove Belly Pan
Remove Sway Bar
Remove Airbox
Remove Inlet Pipe
Remove Motor mount support
Loosen Motor Mount bracket to Engine Block
Remove Motor mount

[airjawed]

Remove Belly Pan
Remove Sway Bar
Remove Airbox
Remove Inlet Pipe
Remove Motor mount support
Loosen Motor Mount bracket to Engine Block
Remove Motor mount

Can the inlet pipe come out with front end still in place? I think I remember not being able to take the inlet off. Did you access from the bottom of the car while on jackstands?

[4ringAR]

When I did my motor mounts, I was able to get my PS inlet pipe out, but not the drivers side. Frankeninlets, so bigger than stock. that said even the PS was a major pain in the ass. And of course car was in service mode. The again this is an allroad so I have ever so slightly more space than a B5.

GD this will the the 3rd time in like 1 month car will be in service mode. Replaced the motor mounts in October, then i put intercoolers in last week, now this of course.

Worst case I guess Ill pull the motor hahahahha

[Halfbreed]

I did the pass side with removing just airbox and inlet. It sure was a pain in the ass but it's possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[airjawed]

I did the pass side with removing just airbox and inlet. It sure was a pain in the ass but it's possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I'm going to do just this....probably undo my engine motor mounts on the bottom and jack the engine up to give my hands more room to work. I'm hoping this helps clear the frame some more on the engine bay side.

[Halfbreed]

I think I'm going to do just this....probably undo my engine motor mounts on the bottom and jack the engine up to give my hands more room to work. I'm hoping this helps clear the frame some more on the engine bay side.

If your comfortable undoing mounts go for it. The more room the better. Just saying it is possible with removing the inlet. I managed to get my fingers in the turbo as well to check for shaft play while I was at it. Having small hands helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[01audia4]

I did the pass side with removing just airbox and inlet. It sure was a pain in the ass but it's possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you run a separate line, or did you put it into the factory metal line?

[Halfbreed]

Did you run a separate line, or did you put it into the factory metal line?

Mine tore down by the wastegate so I ran a new line from the wastegate to a metal "T" up top. I have a MBC in parallel with N75. It is really cramped in there so I used a box cutter to split the hose off the wastegate nipple and the pulled it off with a pare of pliers. Getting the new hose on the wastegate is the hardest part.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[4ringAR]

What size/type silicone replacement lines should I used

[01audia4]

I used 1/4" fuel injection hose I wrapped it in muffler repair tape.


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[blmlozz]

What size/type silicone replacement lines should I used

I had looked into products @ MCmaster car,

closest I could find was 3/16 (4.7mm) in high temperature hose, but you have to buy the really expensive stuff ($30 for 5 feet) that can both withstand high heat (350F) and high pressure (165psi)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-pl...tubing/=pj72y8

the 165 PSI rating obviously isn't strictly necessary, but the 'regular' hose only is rated for 15PSI @ 72F, which when the hose heats up to 150 degrees or so, isn't going to be sufficient for the nominal pressure on those hose, and it will burst.

I ended up buying -4 an steel braided hose from Summit before doing a bunch of research as other's had said that using 1/4" was fine. It's at my hose here now, so I'll end up using it, but it's .5mm too big(the OEM size is 5mm), and it's just plain loose over the wategate line after the built-in lip.

The silicone hose up above is actually the better choice over the steel braided if I had to pick again. It hast a higher temperature resistance and it'll ensure a tighter seal given it's just a little bit smaller than the OEM size.

Although, you're probably only going to get that on the wastegate line if you have it out of the car.

[airjawed]

I just finished my wastegate line replacement. What a pain...no seriously...literally the worse thing to do ever! I have frankeninlets so getting them out was the hardest part. I ended up jacking the engine up with engine mounts undone from the bottom. Then pulled it out while spinning. Had to remove headlights and all the bracketing for the inlet. Even with it out I was working blind. It tore at first but I got a small open end wrench and put it behind the hose clamp and popped it off. I put the new one on with a clamp that tensions itself..no way I could get a screwdriver in the right angle. Didn't bother putting the lines back in the bracket on the back of the cylinder head....but it isn't going anywhere anyway.

Most of my time was just trying to figure out how I was going to do it. In the end I removed pretty much everything on the passenger side of the engine bay! If I had a better angle on the motor mount rear bolt(to the block) then I would definitely take that out and work from the bottom.

Anyway, it is back together and airtight now. I'm ready for the next autocross!

[Tumbler510]

Remove Belly Pan
Remove Sway Bar
Remove Airbox
Remove Inlet Pipe
Remove Motor mount support
Loosen Motor Mount bracket to Engine Block
Remove Motor mount

How does one Remove the motor mounts with the engine in the car?
The engine needs to be supported I assume?

[jballou]

How does one Remove the motor mounts with the engine in the car?
The engine needs to be supported I assume?

One side at a time.

[01audia4]

You do not need to remove the motor mounts.

I've now done the passenger side twice(on two separate cars)

Just drop the sway bar and move the inlet out of the way. Having two people helps one down low the other support uptop.

On my first car I used 1/4 fuel injector hose. That worked fine. On this one I used -4 an stainless steel hose from summit. I could have gotten away with 3ft, but purchased 6 to be safe.

[NYEuroTuner]

Pretty darn certain my waste gate lines are torn somewhere. Im overboosting and its not the N75.

]

You sure its not the N75? Have you leak checked the lines going to the Actuators and verified actuator arm movement or lack of? Would suck to get balls deep in line replacement if theres a possibility its not the lines.

[01audia4]

You sure its not the N75? Have you leak checked the lines going to the Actuators and verified actuator arm movement or lack of? Would suck to get balls deep in line replacement if theres a possibility its not the lines.

Judging by the age of the thread. I'd assume he already went balls deep.

[NYEuroTuner]

Judging by the age of the thread. I'd assume he already went balls deep.

haha On mobile didn't see the OPs thread date.

[Tumbler510]

You do not need to remove the motor mounts.

I've now done the passenger side twice(on two separate cars)

Just drop the sway bar and move the inlet out of the way. Having two people helps one down low the other support uptop.

On my first car I used 1/4 fuel injector hose. That worked fine. On this one I used -4 an stainless steel hose from summit. I could have gotten away with 3ft, but purchased 6 to be safe.

How the hell do you get the new hose clamp tightened on? Did you use a worm-type clamp instead of Oetiker-style?

You sure its not the N75? Have you leak checked the lines going to the Actuators and verified actuator arm movement or lack of? Would suck to get balls deep in line replacement if theres a possibility its not the lines.

Overboost with N75 disconnected.
actuator lines can not hold any pressure at all.

[01audia4]

How the hell do you get the new hose clamp tightened on? Did you use a worm-type clamp instead of Oetiker-style?

Just a regular worm type clamp and a long screw driver. Although it is easier to use a socket with a long extension.

It's possible ;)

[Tumbler510]

Just a regular worm type clamp and a long screw driver. Although it is easier to use a socket with a long extension.

It's possible ;)

And to get the current clamp off?

[01audia4]

Push with a screw driver. Its a bitch but can be done. I never had to work with a k03 line though, both times were on replaced turbos. IE k04 and F21

[Tumbler510]

Push with a screw driver. Its a bitch but can be done. I never had to work with a k03 line though, both times were on replaced turbos. IE k04 and F21

I am on K04's. I'll try this and report back.
I anticipate a lot of swearing.

[Shhmaudi]

I did the pass side with removing just airbox and inlet. It sure was a pain in the ass but it's possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This. And I had my gf actually connect the line from underneath :). Small hands are the special tool ;)

[01audia4]

I am on K04's. I'll try this and report back.
I anticipate a lot of swearing.

Shouldn't be to difficult. Much easier with two people(I had an extra set of hands this most recent time)

Put the worm clamp on the new hose, it will help the person on the bottom guide it in with a screw driver while the person uptop fancies it on(tight squeeze with the exhaust mani there, be forewarned)

A little finesse and BOOM its on there, just tighten her up and be done with the damn thing.

[Racin2redline]

I attempted to do this once on the passenger side.. I wound up needing to pull the motor anyway for other things. If I had to do it again I would almost think it's easier to lower to the entire subframe down and pull off the inlets. That way you can reach from the side

As far as vacuum line I wound up reusing Oem lines because my friend gave me a mint set from a part out. Whatever you decide to replace it with make sure it's high heat silicone. The downfall of the Oem stuff is the compression fittings.

[Tumbler510]

I don't want to come off as smug or anything, but I don't get the fuss about this.
I changed out both sides by only dropping the sway bar, and it took me about 2 hours from jack to jack.

The hardest part is routing the hose exactly where you wanted it to go, especially on the passenger side.

[airjawed]

I don't want to come off as smug or anything, but I don't get the fuss about this.
I changed out both sides by only dropping the sway bar, and it took me about 2 hours from jack to jack.

The hardest part is routing the hose exactly where you wanted it to go, especially on the passenger side.

How did you do it? A little more detail please.

[Tumbler510]

How did you do it? A little more detail please.

I was using 1/4" silicon hose from McMaster.

Jack up car
Remove skid plate
Drop sway bar
Locate actuator fittings visually
Remove rubber hose from actuator using long thing (hand, screwdriver, crowbar)
Remove hose from Tee (top/behind engine)
Route replacement line from Tee down
Put hose clamp over end of line before attaching to actuator fitting
Fit hose over fitting using hands (will not be able to see what you're doing)
Secure clamp with screwdriver/nut driver/ratchet
Secure line at top using clamp
Secure line along route down with zip ties

Pretty straight forward.
Like most things on these cars, its a simple thing, but simple doesn't equal easy.

[airjawed]

I was using 1/4" silicon hose from McMaster.

Jack up car
Remove skid plate
Drop sway bar
Locate actuator fittings visually
Remove rubber hose from actuator using long thing (hand, screwdriver, crowbar)
Remove hose from Tee (top/behind engine)
Route replacement line from Tee down
Put hose clamp over end of line before attaching to actuator fitting
Fit hose over fitting using hands (will not be able to see what you're doing)
Secure clamp with screwdriver/nut driver/ratchet
Secure line at top using clamp
Secure line along route down with zip ties

Pretty straight forward.
Like most things on these cars, its a simple thing, but simple doesn't equal easy.

I removed original line that has hard sections with an entire piece. I thought about just using hose but I was concerned about hose being that close to the exhaust. I'm sure just using hose for the entire thing would be easier but like I said..... that is a lot of heat inches away.

Did you only remove sway bar at the frame or also at the wheels?

[RedB5S4]

I removed original line that has hard sections with an entire piece. I thought about just using hose but I was concerned about hose being that close to the exhaust. I'm sure just using hose for the entire thing would be easier but like I said..... that is a lot of heat inches away.

Did you only remove sway bar at the frame or also at the wheels?

The nice thing about replacing the entire line with silicon is that you can pretty much route it however you want. The factory lines are hardly in optimal locations to begin with... Yes it's a lot of heat inches but there's nothing saying that you can't avoid them if you pull out the hard lines. Same deal with the oil feeds. Route them around high(er) heat zones, problem solved.

[Tumbler510]

I removed original line that has hard sections with an entire piece. I thought about just using hose but I was concerned about hose being that close to the exhaust. I'm sure just using hose for the entire thing would be easier but like I said..... that is a lot of heat inches away.

Did you only remove sway bar at the frame or also at the wheels?

Yes, the swaybar was still connected at the wheels. I only unbolted the frame supports to let it hang down.
I used silicon hose with a high heat resistance and high pressure rating. I think the only way to 100% verify proper routing is to pull the motor. But i've done about an hour of driving wiht it, and no leaks or melted rubber smell, so I think it's ok for now.

[airjawed]

The nice thing about replacing the entire line with silicon is that you can pretty much route it however you want. The factory lines are hardly in optimal locations to begin with... Yes it's a lot of heat inches but there's nothing saying that you can't avoid them if you pull out the hard lines. Same deal with the oil feeds. Route them around high(er) heat zones, problem solved.

I definitely considered using hose and rerouting. I even thought about bringing it on the turbo intake side. In the end I replaced with one I found on ebay in good condition. In my case I think the original hose failed due to the FT's actuator nozzle being slightly off in position compared to stock. Also if valve cover gasket is leaking a little like mine then the oil eats the silicone. Anyway, keep us posted on how long it lasts.

[corneliusmixon]

You do not need to remove the motor mounts.

I've now done the passenger side twice(on two separate cars)

Just drop the sway bar and move the inlet out of the way. Having two people helps one down low the other support uptop.

On my first car I used 1/4 fuel injector hose. That worked fine. On this one I used -4 an stainless steel hose from summit. I could have gotten away with 3ft, but purchased 6 to be safe.

Was the -4 AN too big?

[HomeSlice]

BUMP

Can anyone help me choose the correct hose?! TIA

I had looked into products @ MCmaster car,

closest I could find was 3/16 (4.7mm) in high temperature hose, but you have to buy the really expensive stuff ($30 for 5 feet) that can both withstand high heat (350F) and high pressure (165psi)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-pl...tubing/=pj72y8

the 165 PSI rating obviously isn't strictly necessary, but the 'regular' hose only is rated for 15PSI @ 72F, which when the hose heats up to 150 degrees or so, isn't going to be sufficient for the nominal pressure on those hose, and it will burst.

I ended up buying -4 an steel braided hose from Summit before doing a bunch of research as other's had said that using 1/4" was fine. It's at my hose here now, so I'll end up using it, but it's .5mm too big(the OEM size is 5mm), and it's just plain loose over the wategate line after the built-in lip.

The silicone hose up above is actually the better choice over the steel braided if I had to pick again. It hast a higher temperature resistance and it'll ensure a tighter seal given it's just a little bit smaller than the OEM size.

Although, you're probably only going to get that on the wastegate line if you have it out of the car.