When replacing the injector seats on this vehicle, you should first know to leave it alone unless you see it damaged like cracking. Fuel carbon residue build up will most likely mean your injector rubber o-rings needs to be replaced. But if you do happen to be a person who already did that and now want to replace your seats, follow along.
When it comes to most of us, the injector seats will break on you the minute you try and take them out. This is because Audi felt it necessary to place some rather good loctite on the threads, and the heat cycles over the years make the seats not want to come off as one piece. So, this DIY is basically a run through of what to do if that happens to you.
First, only do this with the manifold out of the vehicle. You would not want any plastic pieces falling into your engine, nor will this DIY work with it in of the vehicle. You would want to attempt to take them off as a whole. To do this, you will need a 20mm hex bit. Kind of hard finding those in local stores (trust me, I tried), so you may have to end up like me an order it from ebay. Picked mine up for $8 shipped with a 1/2" drive. You would want to try and take these off while the manifold is still warm, so the glue/loctite crap they use can hopefully be soft to be able to take off the seats fully. If you can't find your own trick, I first just heated the manifold with a propane torch on the bulky part that sits around the injector seat (hope you know where I am referring to). I then placed the 20mm hex bit into the socket and made sure it was fully seated by tapping it in with a rubber mallet. Then attempted to remove the seat. Of course that didn't work, and you end up with crap like this...
I tried to take all of them out as a whole before going to the next process, but of course they all ended up just like the one pictured above. If you end up in this situation, you will basically just have to pic away at it with a flat head screw driver and hammer. But there is a technique to it.
You want to take off as much plastic as possible before dealing with any plastic that would sit on the threads. There are 2 spots I used to get to these. First one would be right at the bottom of where the flat spot is for the hex bit. The picture demonstrates where. And just hit it with a hammer.
Other spot is from the outlet side of the runner. Here is a demonstration. First location of where to place the flat head of the screw driver (be cautious as hitting the flat head on the aluminum IM can damage it easily).
Really hard to see...
But this pic shows where I penetrated by hitting it with a hammer...
Avoid the threads as much as possible. Once you pic off enough that the only plastic left is the ones that sit over the threads, try and take the seat back out with the 20mm hex bit. With all that material gone, it makes flexing of the seat much more easy (whatever material is left), and you have a good chance of being able to take it out. I was able to do this on only one seat. If it ends up still not wanting to budge, you basically will now be in dangerous territory with your threads.
I neglected to take pics of this process, but wish I did. You will want to get at the plastic from the outlet of the intake manifold runners (ports that sit on the cylinder head). At this point, you will need to meticulously place the screw driver at the very lip of where the plastic and manifold sit. Your chances of damaging a portion of the threads is high, but if you are careful then the damage will be very minimum. Unlike steel, you can simply pic away at the aluminum (electrician screw driver works really well for this) to clean it up. Once the screw driver is placed, tap it to get a little penetration. After that, move right to the side of it and do the same thing. With that semi-deep slit now created, use that to pry on the plastic ring left over. It should just pop out. If not, hammer it some more with the screw driver in the deep slops you created and it should just pop out. Once they are out, clean the threads of the left over sealant residue, any plastic, and pic off any aluminum that you may have nic'd. Once again, I used an electrician screwdriver for this because they are very small and worked perfect.
Once they are clean, be sure to blow the intake with an air compressor. Simply manually open up the butterfly flapper on the throttle body if you have it still on (I did), or blow compressed air directly into the TB port if you don't have one on. You want all the plastic that may have fell in, out. After that, I suggest you use ARP thread sealant on your new injector seat. This stuff remains pliable, resists fuel, does not harden, and all that good stuff. Thread new seats down, and you are done!!!
All ports free from old injector seats...
ARP sealant I would recommend...
New injector seats installed...
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2008cc - 6262 - Lugtronic - ID1700Xs - IECVA1s - 605@27psi 
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