Audi S4 with a 2.0T heart / Build

[un1ko]

So I'm bored at work and I thought I'd start posting my crazy build.

My build consists of swapping from a 2.7T engine to a stroker 2.0T engine and using the 6spd manual from the S4. I'm doing all this on a 2001 Audi S4

Here's where the craziness come in. I’m going to put a 2.0T 058/AEB engine, but I’m going to use an AWM wiring harness and ECU, so it’ll be wideband vs narrowband. I’m also going to relocate the a/c compressor because I’m using a Fluidampr Damper and I can't be without a/c.


First I have to figure out how to move the a/c to the other side. I bought the ABA bracket that holds the alternator and a VR6 water pump pulley and after installing it. The bracket doesn't really work for me, since I also have to buy an alternator and I'd also have to buy an a/c compressor. So, first I'm going to try to work with what I have first. I'm going to cut the AEB bracket right where the manual fan goes, since I'm going to switch with an electric fan. Then I'm going to modify the power steering bracket to go right underneath the AEB bracket that I cut and after that I'm going to use the S4 a/c compressor bracket to go underneath the power steering. It's a bit hard to explain, but once I get working I'll post pictures. I hope this will help any person using a Fluidamper on an 058 block.


The next step, I have to see if all the connections from the AWM/06A wiring harness I can connect it to the AEB/058 engine. I think I saw somewhere that it’s better to use the AWM wiring harness from the Passat, because it doesn't have as much connection as the one that comes from an A4. Like the connection that plugs into the oil pan on an 06A. I’m going to check on this because I already bought the wiring harness from an A4 already. Maybe it won’t cause an issue if I don’t have to plug it in and maybe I can delete that sensor in the ECU.


Before people start saying you’re crazy to swap the 2.7T. So I’ll be clear, If I don’t sell this engine, in the future I’m going to build a 3.0T with it. I spent a lot of money building the 2.0T and for those that seen my other post of my build, this engine has been a décor in my house for a long, long time. I feel like a kid looking at a candy, but not being able to eat it. So.. it’s time to do the swap.



Engine
82.5 Supertech Pistons
IE I-Beam Rods
Single Groove Supertech Valves
Cat Cam Springs
Titanium Retainers
QED - Purple Cat Cams
Mechanical Timing Belt Kit
SPA Manifold
034 SPA Downpipe
ATP Fuel Rail
Fuel Pressure Gauge
44mm MVS Tial External Wastegate
50mm Tial BOV
SEM Intake Manifold
RS4 Throttle Body
044 Fuel Pump
ARP Head Studs Kit 058
ARP Main Studs 058
ARP Crank Bolt
Crank Rear Seal
Crank Gear Pulley
ARP Fly Wheel Bolts
Head Gasket set-(Big bore head gasket)
Main Bearing Caps Billet
Main Bearings w/Thrust Washer S
Rod Bearings +.001" ACL calico coated
Fluidampr Harmonic Dampner



Fuel Injectors 1000cc – Not sure which brand yet, I'm researching if I can use maybe a little bigger injectors. Like 1100cc or 1200cc
Eurodyne – Maestro - As I stated I'd like to use 1100cc or 1200cc. I need to do some research, but if anyone can help it'd be greatly appreciated

Comp Turbo CT4-6262
Turbo Cover
044 Fuel Pump


Steel Flywheel
Clutch Master FX400

3" Custom Exhaust
All Mounts - 034
Treadstone TR1035 FMIC


After my build I'm going to work on the body, since I bought the car painted with plasidip.

Here's a few random pics of my S4.








Here are some random pics of my parts














Thanks for watching!!

[walky_talky20]

I'm going to cut the AEB bracket right where the manual fan goes, since I'm going to switch with an electric fan. Then I'm going to modify the power steering bracket to go right underneath the AEB bracket that I cut and after that I'm going to use the S4 a/c compressor bracket to go underneath the power steering.

My brain hurts just slightly after reading this. I assume you have access to the appropriate laser pulley alignment tools to get this done?

I bought the ABA bracket that holds the alternator and a VR6 water pump pulley and after installing it. The bracket doesn't really work for me, since I also have to buy an alternator and I'd also have to buy an a/c compressor.

This sounds easier. It just does. There are like 3 million broken Jetta's in the junkyard. The alternator and compressor can't be more than like....40 bucks total, right?

[viceprp]

Do you have a 1.8T harness? Do you have emissions in Chicago that you need to worry about?

[un1ko]

My brain hurts just slightly after reading this. I assume you have access to the appropriate laser pulley alignment tools to get this done?



This sounds easier. It just does. There are like 3 million broken Jetta's in the junkyard. The alternator and compressor can't be more than like....40 bucks total, right?

Lol! Imagine how I feel, that I don’t know what direction to go to… At first, the idea was to set everything up, by tightening everything with nuts and bolts until I align it right and then weld it if needed. After looking at everything, it’s going to be a lot of work and you might be right to just look around and go to a junk yard to find the parts I need from an ABA. The only reason I didn’t want to get old ABA parts because the alternator is only 90A, but I did found out that I can use a VR6 vs. an ABA alternator. It has 120A. But, I think I’m going to run in to an issue with the power steering. I'm going to research some more and see what the easiest route will be.

Here’s a pic I found. If I’m not mistaken it’s an ABA

Do you have a 1.8T harness? Do you have emissions in Chicago that you need to worry about?

Yep! From an AWM A4. we do have emission, but since my Audi is a Quattro they can't dyno the car, so they just check for the check engine light. So I'm good.

[terraflata]

I did a lot of researching on injectors. I guess it all depends on what your trying to build, and what your willing to live with. ID Injectors seem to be the best bet....there are cheaper ones, but supposedly you get what you pay for. The big thing is predictability, knowing how the injectors will react under several conditions, this will allow the tuning to be quicker and consistent. Because of their linear Im personally going for ID2000's. Check out their site to understand why, anything I tell you would just be copy paste anyways. But going through countless forum posts about injectors, the one absolute that you always read about ID2000's is that it is the last injector you will buy, and a lot of these guys have been through countless sets of injectors. Idle doesnt become an impossible task even for such a large injector, and they are high impedance, so no need for a resistor box, good idea to calculate such things into injector price when shopping, sort of like how a BW EFR turbo cost more than say a GTX variant, but actually becomes a cheaper option considering the ability to eliminate BOVS and wastegates and additional plumbing/fittings for such things. ID2000's may be too big for your plans and ID1600's are discontinued because of the 2000's, but ID1000's are still able to flow something like 1550cc with the fuel pressure turned up (can be used up to 7 Bar or 101.5 PSI) Most people will opt for something else because its cheaper, but you must remember the saying, you get what your pay for.....and ID1000's aren't even $500.

[walky_talky20]

The only reason I didn’t want to get old ABA parts because the alternator is only 90A, but I did found out that I can use a VR6 vs. an ABA alternator. It has 120A.

The earlier A4's and Passats only had 90A units. I'm running a 90A Valeo on my AWM. Works pretty good. It also steals less horsepower. That's one of the mods we do to our Race Corolla's (har, har, har). We swap in the crappy AC-DELCO alternator from the Geo Prizm. At full tilt the DELCO won't even chirp the belt, while the japanese Denso alternator that shipped on the Corolla's will pull hard enough to bog the motor if it needs to.

[jvega21]

The earlier A4's and Passats only had 90A units. I'm running a 90A Valeo on my AWM. Works pretty good. It also steals less horsepower. That's one of the mods we do to our Race Corolla's (har, har, har). We swap in the crappy AC-DELCO alternator from the Geo Prizm. At full tilt the DELCO won't even chirp the belt, while the japanese Denso alternator that shipped on the Corolla's will pull hard enough to bog the motor if it needs to.

sorry, off topic, dont mean to thread jack but.....

....race corollas?

elaborate please. or link

[Poopie]

feels like i'm reading gurumans build when he had a flat black a4 with s4 drivetrain. now flat black s4 with a4 heart transplant. Anyway, sounds good.

[un1ko]

The earlier A4's and Passats only had 90A units. I'm running a 90A Valeo on my AWM. Works pretty good. It also steals less horsepower. That's one of the mods we do to our Race Corolla's (har, har, har). We swap in the crappy AC-DELCO alternator from the Geo Prizm. At full tilt the DELCO won't even chirp the belt, while the japanese Denso alternator that shipped on the Corolla's will pull hard enough to bog the motor if it needs to.

That's good to know. I was just worried, since I feel the S4 needs more electricity. I'm gonna see if this weekend I can go to a junk yard and find some parts.

feels like i'm reading gurumans build when he had a flat black a4 with s4 drivetrain. now flat black s4 with a4 heart transplant. Anyway, sounds good.

Thanks. I'm going to check his build

[un1ko]

I did a lot of researching on injectors. I guess it all depends on what your trying to build, and what your willing to live with. ID Injectors seem to be the best bet....there are cheaper ones, but supposedly you get what you pay for. The big thing is predictability, knowing how the injectors will react under several conditions, this will allow the tuning to be quicker and consistent. Because of their linear Im personally going for ID2000's. Check out their site to understand why, anything I tell you would just be copy paste anyways. But going through countless forum posts about injectors, the one absolute that you always read about ID2000's is that it is the last injector you will buy, and a lot of these guys have been through countless sets of injectors. Idle doesnt become an impossible task even for such a large injector, and they are high impedance, so no need for a resistor box, good idea to calculate such things into injector price when shopping, sort of like how a BW EFR turbo cost more than say a GTX variant, but actually becomes a cheaper option considering the ability to eliminate BOVS and wastegates and additional plumbing/fittings for such things. ID2000's may be too big for your plans and ID1600's are discontinued because of the 2000's, but ID1000's are still able to flow something like 1550cc with the fuel pressure turned up (can be used up to 7 Bar or 101.5 PSI) Most people will opt for something else because its cheaper, but you must remember the saying, you get what your pay for.....and ID1000's aren't even $500.

ID injectors is what I'm leaning towards. The other 2 I am looking are Fuel Injector Clinic and Fuel Injector Connection - being safe, the idea is to use 1000cc @ 3 Bar because I know there's a base file for the Maestro and once the car is running, then I will go up to a 5 Bar which I believe it'll be around 1200cc. If I'm able to get a base file for the that will allow me to use larger fuel injectors, then I'll do that. You're probably are using a standalone to be able to use 2000cc injectors. Right?

[walky_talky20]

sorry, off topic, dont mean to thread jack but.....

....race corollas?

elaborate please. or link

Erm...Not sure if I dare link this, but here goes (not my video, please skip ahead to the actual racing):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwsA8q6PS_Q

Pause at exactly 2:47. The black "Race Corolla" is followed closely by the "Race Camry". This was the best video example I could find. That particular Corolla is not ours, but the '89 Camry is on our team (car #11). That video is pretty representative of the events I would say. Most are a bit muddier, though (track is wet for safety). We have a stable of Race Corollas, Celicas, and Camrys. Interestingly, all of them are from Toyota's golden era of quality (88-96). To win a race, you must have a working car at the end. The Toyota's really shine for durability and reliability at the "Enduro" races which are usually 100-200 lap events. My father is somewhat well known in the area for winning dozens of these Enduro races.

We also do "skid plate" racing on occasion, which is pretty fun. Here is an example of that. My father actually won this particular race...in one of the esteemed "Race Corolla's" of course. It is way more tricky than it looks. But so much fun.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBkxNlbqKLU

Here's a photo of us prepping 3 of the Race Corolla's for a skid plate race at the track.



The funny part about this is how competitive the little 100hp corolla's are. A lot of it has to do with their light weight. But probably most of it has to do with how bulletproof they are. They take a pounding. The one in the center is actually my grandmother's old car. Now it's a race car, lol.

Getting back to the point: with such little horsepower available in the little 1.6 liter mill, everything counts. So we delete A/C, power steering, and swap out the alternator for the ones that barely work (AC Delco). On some of the cars we even add an interrupt switch for the alternator field voltage so we can cut it out completely for the last few laps if necessary.

[terraflata]

ID injectors is what I'm leaning towards. The other 2 I am looking are Fuel Injector Clinic and Fuel Injector Connection - being safe, the idea is to use 1000cc @ 3 Bar because I know there's a base file for the Maestro and once the car is running, then I will go up to a 5 Bar which I believe it'll be around 1200cc. If I'm able to get a base file for the that will allow me to use larger fuel injectors, then I'll do that. You're probably are using a standalone to be able to use 2000cc injectors. Right?

I read from one of the distributors that FIC's are the same as the IDs, just less expensive.....just havent heard much else. Yeah Im gonna be running standalone.....but one of the most common examples of how well these injectors work is a video they made of a bone stock Integra idling at 800rpm using ID2000s, so they arent limited to the ecu running them.

Oh and btw: Race Corrollas FTW!!!

[M-Hood]

I did a lot of researching on injectors. I guess it all depends on what your trying to build, and what your willing to live with. ID Injectors seem to be the best bet....there are cheaper ones, but supposedly you get what you pay for. The big thing is predictability, knowing how the injectors will react under several conditions, this will allow the tuning to be quicker and consistent. Because of their linear Im personally going for ID2000's. Check out their site to understand why, anything I tell you would just be copy paste anyways. But going through countless forum posts about injectors, the one absolute that you always read about ID2000's is that it is the last injector you will buy, and a lot of these guys have been through countless sets of injectors. Idle doesnt become an impossible task even for such a large injector, and they are high impedance, so no need for a resistor box, good idea to calculate such things into injector price when shopping, sort of like how a BW EFR turbo cost more than say a GTX variant, but actually becomes a cheaper option considering the ability to eliminate BOVS and wastegates and additional plumbing/fittings for such things. ID2000's may be too big for your plans and ID1600's are discontinued because of the 2000's, but ID1000's are still able to flow something like 1550cc with the fuel pressure turned up (can be used up to 7 Bar or 101.5 PSI) Most people will opt for something else because its cheaper, but you must remember the saying, you get what your pay for.....and ID1000's aren't even $500.

Doesn't matter what you pay you still end up with Bosch Injectors. Paying more just means you are paying more for someone to put their name on it even though they didn't design or make the injector. Just make sure not to buy injectors that were modified with hand tools. lol


Both the EV14 and Bosch Racing injectors can be ran at up to 7 bar of fuel pressure, doesn't matter if they are right from Bosch or if they have been modified.

ID injectors is what I'm leaning towards. The other 2 I am looking are Fuel Injector Clinic and Fuel Injector Connection - being safe, the idea is to use 1000cc @ 3 Bar because I know there's a base file for the Maestro and once the car is running, then I will go up to a 5 Bar which I believe it'll be around 1200cc. If I'm able to get a base file for the that will allow me to use larger fuel injectors, then I'll do that. You're probably are using a standalone to be able to use 2000cc injectors. Right?

If you plan on running normal fuel (pump or race gas) a set of 1000-1200cc injectors would be plenty, only reason to go bigger is if you plan on running something like E85.

[un1ko]

I read from one of the distributors that FIC's are the same as the IDs, just less expensive.....just havent heard much else. Yeah Im gonna be running standalone.....but one of the most common examples of how well these injectors work is a video they made of a bone stock Integra idling at 800rpm using ID2000s, so they arent limited to the ecu running them.

Oh and btw: Race Corrollas FTW!!!

I'm getting a good deal from Fuel Injector Connection, so I'm going to try them out. I did some research and I didn't see anything negative about them. I'm even getting the Bosch EV14 60mm tall injectors, so I won't need the spacer that some injectors come with.

Doesn't matter what you pay you still end up with Bosch Injectors. Paying more just means you are paying more for someone to put their name on it even though they didn't design or make the injector. Just make sure not to buy injectors that were modified with hand tools. lol


Both the EV14 and Bosch Racing injectors can be ran at up to 7 bar of fuel pressure, doesn't matter if they are right from Bosch or if they have been modified.





If you plan on running normal fuel (pump or race gas) a set of 1000-1200cc injectors would be plenty, only reason to go bigger is if you plan on running something like E85.

I agree Mike, I'm gonna go with 1000cc injectors and I know Eurodyne has a good base file for me to get my car running. As of right now I only plan on running normal fuel. The only thing I'll be doing is playing around with using a 5 bar and going MAFless.

[thenj3]

Why you gonna be running 5bar? I believe larger injectors are ment to be ran at 3. Running at 5 bar with 30+psi of boost, that's a lot of pressre for the injector.

[M-Hood]

I'm getting a good deal from Fuel Injector Connection, so I'm going to try them out. I did some research and I didn't see anything negative about them. I'm even getting the Bosch EV14 60mm tall injectors, so I won't need the spacer that some injectors come with.



I agree Mike, I'm gonna go with 1000cc injectors and I know Eurodyne has a good base file for me to get my car running. As of right now I only plan on running normal fuel. The only thing I'll be doing is playing around with using a 5 bar and going MAFless.

You do not want to run a 5 bar base fuel pressure because that will give you very little room for boost added on top of that. Best to stay around 3 bar and maybe no higher then 4 bar, running more fuel pressure is just a band aid to not having large enough injectors. The higher the fuel pressure you run the less fuel the pump will move, causing you to need more pump then you would if you were running a 3 bar base fuel pressure.

FI Connection has been doing injectors longer then ID and their injectors are really good. They are one of the largest injector suppliers out there and also do private label injectors for plenty of shops. They do all their machine work and testing in house.

[nunya]

I wish ARP made head and main's back when i built mine. The Raceware are pricey.

--dillon

[terraflata]

I wish ARP made head and main's back when i built mine. The Raceware are pricey.

--dillon

Trying to find out where this fits into the convo, LOL.

Mike, thanks for screwing up my sense of self confidence in researching, now I feel like those trolls who go around mis-informing people.

[un1ko]

Why you gonna be running 5bar? I believe larger injectors are ment to be ran at 3. Running at 5 bar with 30+psi of boost, that's a lot of pressre for the injector.

I thought it was safe to go up to 5 Bar with the 1000cc injectors. Thanks for the info, I'll stick with a 3 Bar.

You do not want to run a 5 bar base fuel pressure because that will give you very little room for boost added on top of that. Best to stay around 3 bar and maybe no higher then 4 bar, running more fuel pressure is just a band aid to not having large enough injectors. The higher the fuel pressure you run the less fuel the pump will move, causing you to need more pump then you would if you were running a 3 bar base fuel pressure.

FI Connection has been doing injectors longer then ID and their injectors are really good. They are one of the largest injector suppliers out there and also do private label injectors for plenty of shops. They do all their machine work and testing in house.

Thanks Mike, I'll stick with a 3 Bar and later buy larger injectors. Since it seems the largest base file for eurodyne is by using 1000cc injectors. I'm going to email eurodyne and see if they have a base file that uses larger injectors.

That's good to here that FI Connection is a good company.

[nunya]

Trying to find out where this fits into the convo, LOL.

Mike, thanks for screwing up my sense of self confidence in researching, now I feel like those trolls who go around mis-informing people.

Raceware were the only folks that made 058 main and head studs for a long time. He is using ARP for his 058.

--dillon

[b5a4gt28]

ID has testing up to 7 bar on their website. You can get away with 1000's at 4 bar easily because they act as 1200's then. Also not sure if the the eight pad fx400 has less clamping force than the 6 puck fx400 but Id go that route at the very least. Not sure how much horsepower you're shooting for but I wouldnt trust that 8 pad over 450wheel. A lot of people are running the 6 puck with great drive ability and a stock pedal feel.

[M-Hood]

ID has testing up to 7 bar on their website. You can get away with 1000's at 4 bar easily because they act as 1200's then. Also not sure if the the eight pad fx400 has less clamping force than the 6 puck fx400 but Id go that route at the very least. Not sure how much horsepower you're shooting for but I wouldnt trust that 8 pad over 450wheel. A lot of people are running the 6 puck with great drive ability and a stock pedal feel.

Clamp load is the same for all of the stages since the exact same pressure plate is used, that is why they all have the same HD in their part number. The 8 pad is better suited for a car that is just driven on the street, if there are plans to launch the car then it is better to go with the 6 puck. When choosing a clutch you always have to take into account that the power rating of a clutch is while the car is in motion while the torque is applied. When the load is increased like it is when the car is launched the amount of torque the clutch will see can go up 50-75% on a AWD car.


The injectors might be good up to 7bar, Bosch even states that some of their newer injectors are even good to up to 8 bar. But the problem is that most people that drive their cars on the street don't have the fuel pump setup to handle running that high of a fuel pressure since the pumps flow decreases as the pressure goes up and on some pumps that flow decreases at a faster rate. The better solution is to run the right size injectors to run a base fuel pressure around 3-3.5 bar if there are plans to run over 30psi of boost. Only time it is a good idea to run a much higher fuel pressure is when trying to keep a safe pressure differential while running a static fuel pressure.

[un1ko]

Clamp load is the same for all of the stages since the exact same pressure plate is used, that is why they all have the same HD in their part number. The 8 pad is better suited for a car that is just driven on the street, if there are plans to launch the car then it is better to go with the 6 puck. When choosing a clutch you always have to take into account that the power rating of a clutch is while the car is in motion while the torque is applied. When the load is increased like it is when the car is launched the amount of torque the clutch will see can go up 50-75% on a AWD car.


The injectors might be good up to 7bar, Bosch even states that some of their newer injectors are even good to up to 8 bar. But the problem is that most people that drive their cars on the street don't have the fuel pump setup to handle running that high of a fuel pressure since the pumps flow decreases as the pressure goes up and on some pumps that flow decreases at a faster rate. The better solution is to run the right size injectors to run a base fuel pressure around 3-3.5 bar if there are plans to run over 30psi of boost. Only time it is a good idea to run a much higher fuel pressure is when trying to keep a safe pressure differential while running a static fuel pressure.

I bought the 8 puck because I felt that I won't have that stock feel on the clutch pedal with the 6 puck, but later I'm going to switch to the FX700. Much later. Lol!

Do you know how much fuel pressure can an 044 fuel pump handle? I feel it can be the best single inline fuel pump you can get? I haven't' really heard of other pumps being better, but I could be wrong.

[Monty23]

Do you know how much fuel pressure can an 044 fuel pump handle? I feel it can be the best single inline fuel pump you can get? I haven't' really heard of other pumps being better, but I could be wrong.

Check out the Walbro 450.... It fits in the stock s4 basket.

[M-Hood]

I bought the 8 puck because I felt that I won't have that stock feel on the clutch pedal with the 6 puck, but later I'm going to switch to the FX700. Much later. Lol!

Do you know how much fuel pressure can an 044 fuel pump handle? I feel it can be the best single inline fuel pump you can get? I haven't' really heard of other pumps being better, but I could be wrong.

Here you go and yo can decided what is best. lol






The high flow rated pumps don't mean much on a FI car that is going to see really high fuel pressure. lol

[034Motorsport]

Just because a car can idle at 800rpm on a stock motor with 2000cc injectors, does NOT mean it is idling at an acceptable AFR.

You can idle just fine, but still be at a 9.0:1 AFR.

I know they are trying to show that EV14 based injectors have great response and flow pattern, but that doesn't mean you should use the biggest injector you can just because it "idles".

[terraflata]

Just because a car can idle at 800rpm on a stock motor with 2000cc injectors, does NOT mean it is idling at an acceptable AFR.

You can idle just fine, but still be at a 9.0:1 AFR.

I know they are trying to show that EV14 based injectors have great response and flow pattern, but that doesn't mean you should use the biggest injector you can just because it "idles".

I realize that. My suggestion was more because people want a good idle. And large injectors have this stigma about not being able to idle properly unless running E85 (for example) due to the increased volume requirements. Because of this many people will go with a smaller injector and crank up fuel pressure, and create other problem areas such as Mike stated about how actual flow decreases, which in turn means they will upgrade their pumps, by installing two or three pumps, surge tanks, complicated wiring and plumbing. It becomes never ending, and a band aid to fix a band aid type situation occurs. Rather appropriate planning should be made with fuel systems. Injectors, pumps, tanks, lines, etc. should all be viewed at as a single upgrade or at least viewed at as a single system. How many times do we hear about people running their setups on the dyno, getting their tune, and bam.......not enough fuel, have to stop. Naturally I would think that having a pump that can support your ultimate horsepower goals using base pressure of 3 bars would be ideal, as cranking up pressure only puts more strain on the pump and other parts I would assume. My suggestion to use such a large injector was of course presuming that it would would great in every other area as well, a do it once, do it right suggestion.

[un1ko]

Alright time to get dirty. I'm going to take this sucker out!

My God where do I start! Lol! Not the same as working on a 4 cylinder! That's for sure.




I'm still looking for some parts from a 2.0 Golf III or Jetta III. This weekend I went to the juckyard and they only had a TDI Jetta III, I think the brackets are the same, but it was somewhat muddy and I had no jack and no space to get it out. They said thursday they should have one, so friday I'll swing by.

[034Motorsport]

It's really not that bad once you've pulled it out the first time.

I think it took me maybe 5-6 hours to pull out my first 2.7T. Next was a few hours. Now I can pull it out in about an hour. Getting it back in takes a bit longer, primarily because of the damn slave, but it's really not bad.

I realize that. My suggestion was more because people want a good idle. And large injectors have this stigma about not being able to idle properly unless running E85 (for example) due to the increased volume requirements. Because of this many people will go with a smaller injector and crank up fuel pressure, and create other problem areas such as Mike stated about how actual flow decreases, which in turn means they will upgrade their pumps, by installing two or three pumps, surge tanks, complicated wiring and plumbing. It becomes never ending, and a band aid to fix a band aid type situation occurs. Rather appropriate planning should be made with fuel systems. Injectors, pumps, tanks, lines, etc. should all be viewed at as a single upgrade or at least viewed at as a single system. How many times do we hear about people running their setups on the dyno, getting their tune, and bam.......not enough fuel, have to stop. Naturally I would think that having a pump that can support your ultimate horsepower goals using base pressure of 3 bars would be ideal, as cranking up pressure only puts more strain on the pump and other parts I would assume. My suggestion to use such a large injector was of course presuming that it would would great in every other area as well, a do it once, do it right suggestion.

I agree with you as well, but lately I've been seeing the opposite side of the spectrum with people deadset on running the largest possible injector they can think of.

[un1ko]

It's really not that bad once you've pulled it out the first time.

I think it took me maybe 5-6 hours to pull out my first 2.7T. Next was a few hours. Now I can pull it out in about an hour. Getting it back in takes a bit longer, primarily because of the damn slave, but it's really not bad.

Yeah, it took me way longer. Lol.. Based on my buddy, I took apart more than what I should of. Oh well, now I know. It was a pain to take it out though, I had to lift the trans and then lift engine to pull it out. I had to do that a few times, but I'm really excited that it's out now.

This week I'm going to separate the trans, clean it up and I might change the transmission fluid, since it's out. I also have to figure out what I can use from the S4 and what I need from the A4 as far as - the heater core hoses, ps, a/c lines, etc..

[////D]

I have a bunch of aba parts laying around, along with a vr6 alternator. Shoot me a txt 224 623 2067. Im local

[un1ko]

I have a bunch of aba parts laying around, along with a vr6 alternator. Shoot me a txt 224 623 2067. Im local

Thanks! It was cool seeing you again.



Wasn't able to do to much. I'm figuring out the serpentine belt situation and waiting for some parts. I also cleaned up the transmission.









I ended up going with the 1000cc Fuel Injection Connection.

[////D]

Thanks! It was cool seeing you again.

Anytime.

[un1ko]

Here’s a few updates.

I was able to bolt on the transmission with the engine. It was a big pain in the a$$! I had to drill some holes on the transmission spacer to be able to match. I guess once I figured it out it wasn’t that bad. Since I need to get my car running asap. I also gave up on trying to have the a/c relocated, I have another 058 block to mock it up until I figure it out. Now I’m working on the downpipe. Since I’m using a 44mm wastegate, instead of a 38mm I need to modify it. I’m also working on figuring out the wiring from the AWM to the AEB engine. After all that is done I’ll start installing everything in the car.

[DeltaAlpha9]

Huh, I had always wondered how the turbos were plumbed on the S4. And now I know.

[un1ko]

So I got the engine installed and connected the axles and driveshaft. Now I have to work on the electrical, which Walky (thanks) help me to identify the connections from the wiring harness, wish me luck.

[un1ko]

Yesterday I was able to install a few more parts.







I have to find out if anyone had issues with the fitting of the SEM intake manifold. When I was done I closed the hood, but I think the manifold is touching my hood. Not sure what the issue can be... thinking if what positions the motor mounts are different between the S4 and A4? I also think that the engine is pushed a little forward, since there's so much space behind the engine.

Another issues I have, are I can't find the water pump pulley, the electric fan is to wide and the serpentine belt I bought falls short. I have to see if I can exchange it.

[M-Hood]

Engine is pushed forward because you used a spacer between the engine/transmission. You shouldn't need the spacer to run the 01E transmission on the 1.8t. Did you try installing the 01E without the spacer?

[un1ko]

Engine is pushed forward because you used a spacer between the engine/transmission. You shouldn't need the spacer to run the 01E transmission on the 1.8t. Did you try installing the 01E without the spacer?

Yeah I tried not using the spacer, but I couldn't get it to meet against the engine. I tried for a long time, but it just wouldn't meet. The gap was about as wide as the spacer and it felt like the shaft was already in and it was hitting against the crank. Then when I added the spacer it seemed that everything aligned properly, that's why I used the spacer. In case anyone want to do this I had to drill some holes on the spacer for it to match the 1.8t engine. I was a big pain in the a$$ putting everything together. I was so close of giving up and using a 5 speed.

Now, do you think I'm going to have issues with using the spacer? I saw a post from Max (034) when he did a 01E swap and he used the spacer, even though he was putting it on a 2.8, but I figured it'd be similar.

[nynoah]

a 1.8t is a longer engine than the V6 or any sort. Was your donor engine a manual or automatic?