Stupid Question: How do you remove driveshaft?

[troyguitar]

So I'm nearly ready to finally pull the transmission but I have no clue how to remove the driveshaft. Everything on the internet just says "remove driveshaft" without going into any detail or providing any photos. The closest anything comes is the engine pull DIY that shows this sequence:



"Once the bolts are out we need to break the seal from the shaft and the transmission. To do so, grab a rubber mallet. Gently tap the outer section of the gold mount. Continue to do so while spinning the drive shaft to break the seal all the way around (leave the e-brake off to allow it to spin freely). This will break the seal. Use some force if gentle taps do not work."



Well I finished step 1 and got the seal open, but the shaft doesn't come out. I tried breaking loose the rear as well as removing the center bearing support thinking it just needed some space to move, but it still does not come out. I have tried pulling it out at both the front and rear and it moves a bit but hits what feels like a hard stop and will not go any further. How do you get past this point?





I feel retarded, this has to be something simple.

[Spiral]

Grab around the hub and pull backwards on the driveshaft until the hubcentric shaft in the center clears to allow you to pull it out.

[Spiral]

PS... I like how the tutorial pictures show a hex socket being used on triple-square fasteners. Keepin' it classy.

[troyguitar]

What exactly am I supposed to grab? There are like 4-5 layers in there that all seem to move semi-independently.

(They are hex bolts on my car fyi)

[troyguitar]

I also just tried pounding on the damn shaft with a hammer, there is definitely a hard stop that it will not move beyond in either direction. It seems impossible to remove.

[BCsniper]

pretty sure its B

[troyguitar]

Finally got it. The shit was so rusted solid that I didn't even realize there was a separate flange closer to the diff...

Sprayed it down with PB blaster, beat the shit out of it with a hammer, sprayed more PB blaster and went off reading more junk on the internet, then beat the shit out of it with a hammer some more and it finally broke loose. Here's where it actually separates:

[JimmyBones]

Those driveshafts can be pretty stuck! But it is good that you got it free.

PS... I like how the tutorial pictures show a hex socket being used on triple-square fasteners. Keepin' it classy.

The B6s and B7s used different bolts in some places. For example, I know the slave cylinder is either an Allen bolt or a triple square.

[0000 V8]

PS... I like how the tutorial pictures show a hex socket being used on triple-square fasteners. Keepin' it classy.

Those aren't triple square.

[Mr. Corey]

Make sure you mark it on both sides. So it bolts together how you took it apart. I know with the older Audi's you can have balancing vibrations issues.... so I marked mine when I pulled the trans.

[EUROSWAGR]

Make sure you mark it on both sides. So it bolts together how you took it apart. I know with the older Audi's you can have balancing vibrations issues.... so I marked mine when I pulled the trans.

Yes same with these newer Audis, either make sure they have stock alignment marks or make your own.

OP in my honest opinion if you are going to do maintenance on this car you should probably buy the Bentley manual! It will pay for itself when you do things correctly and not fuck shit up..plus it good to know your car inside and out.

[troyguitar]

Yep it is marked, assuming I can still find the marks when I put it back together :lol:

I read something about the Bentley manual requiring a computer with windows XP or older, but haven't looked into it much beyond that. I guess I could grab a random old laptop off craigslist or something.

[QIKRNU]

[QUOTE=I read something about the Bentley manual requiring a computer with windows XP or older, but haven't looked into it much beyond that. I guess I could grab a random old laptop off craigslist or something.[/QUOTE]

Do that and dedicate it to the car; XP runs VagCom as well.

[EUROSWAGR]

I just run a parallel OS on my MacBook for ebahn and vagcom.

[SurferD]

I took my Dshaft off the housing yesterday to do the JHM 4:1 center diff.
JHM claims the 6 dshaft bolts are 19ftlbs. No freakin way!
Mine were easily over 60 and taking them out was a bitch.
I think because Audi used some thread locking compound.
Once out I used a huge screwdriver/hammer and tapped around the edge of the metal where the bolts go.
then the shaft came of very easily.
I finished but it's still on the ramps and I have to fill it with fluid.
What's this about alignment marks and imbalancing?
I saw no marks except on the bolt heads.
When I swapped the diff the flange on the diff housing had turned one spline and I had to take it off again to rotate it to line up with the shaft again.
Should I be worried about this?

[troyguitar]

err, doesn't a B7 with MT already have the 4:1 center diff from the factory? I bought my car under the assumption that it has the T3 with 40/60 F/R and 4:1 range.

[SurferD]

err, doesn't a B7 with MT already have the 4:1 center diff from the factory? I bought my car under the assumption that it has the T3 with 40/60 F/R and 4:1 range.

Yes it does, this is a JHM pre-release modified unit for the T3.
Notice the faint JHM stamping on the side.


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[RobV]

Finally got it. The shit was so rusted solid that I didn't even realize there was a separate flange closer to the diff...

Sprayed it down with PB blaster, beat the shit out of it with a hammer, sprayed more PB blaster and went off reading more junk on the internet, then beat the shit out of it with a hammer some more and it finally broke loose. Here's where it actually separates:

Thank you!!! This is EXACTLY the same problem I have! What a b@tch! I mean, I understand tolerances and all, but so tight as to have rust jam these parts together????

BTW - not sure if you've purchased that Bently Manual on CD yet (I noticed your thread is over a year old) - DO NOT BUY IT - eBahn Reader is a POS. Save yourself the headache and get the paper version of the manual - believe me, you will not miss any "convenience" of viewing it on the computer. I have written pointed complaints to them about this - they are not at all interested in fixing any of the problems with their reader and are definitely not interested in keeping up with the release of new technology (as Ross Tech is with their VAG reader). I cannot stress it enough CO NOT BUY THE CD! all the best and thanks for the great post...now back to wailing on that coupling....

[TarlCabot]

err, doesn't a B7 with MT already have the 4:1 center diff from the factory? I bought my car under the assumption that it has the T3 with 40/60 F/R and 4:1 range.

factory aplication for the 4:1 dif came in 2007, Avant IIRC would be a yr later or earlier ???
my 25q came with it a year earlier

[badger.]

BTW - not sure if you've purchased that Bently Manual on CD yet (I noticed your thread is over a year old) - DO NOT BUY IT - eBahn Reader is a POS. Save yourself the headache and get the paper version of the manual - believe me, you will not miss any "convenience" of viewing it on the computer. I have written pointed complaints to them about this - they are not at all interested in fixing any of the problems with their reader and are definitely not interested in keeping up with the release of new technology (as Ross Tech is with their VAG reader). I cannot stress it enough CO NOT BUY THE CD! all the best and thanks for the great post...now back to wailing on that coupling....

Where is the paper version available? I didn't see it on JHM, and ECS has the CD version. Amazon has it for teh A4. This thread from last month seems to indicate there is not a paper version available: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Service-Manual

Anyone have one they want to sell me?

[GAll33]

Where is the paper version available? I didn't see it on JHM, and ECS has the CD version. Amazon has it for teh A4. This thread from last month seems to indicate there is not a paper version available: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Service-Manual

Anyone have one they want to sell me?

I purchased this factory manual from this website and the manuals great. Procedures, torque specs, specialty tools, complete car info. Well worth the money for me as I just got done doing guides tensions and clutch/flywheel.
https://www.factory-manuals.com/expa...anual-190.html


But the reason I stumbled across this thread is I had to beat my driveshaft to get it off too and when I went to go reattach the bearings fell out and I had to reassemble the centrialful joint. I installed it in the same position (marked it) and now I have a vibration at 20-25 mph. All other speeds no vibration.

Has anyone ran into this before? I’m almost positive it’s that joint because I’ve reinspected everything. Changed wheels (winter set)

[nesquil]

How did you end up fixing the vibrations?

[milk]

Went to bolt up the driveshaft last night and can't get the last 1/8" clearance needed to cleanly line up the driveshaft to the transmission. Also, I don't see my alignment marks on the transmission anymore, just the driveshaft.

Questions:
1) How do you get the necessary clearance to line up the driveshaft to transmission flange without spreading the grease all over? I'm a good 1/8-1/4" away from the clearance I need - I'm hitting in the same place troyguitar was having trouble getting it out. I'll try pulling backwards at point 'b' in troyguitar's paint picture, but again, the new grease will get all over and the manual states 'remove grease from sealing surfaces'. I have the center release bearing bolts loosened to the bearing can drop down some.

2) What should I do about the alignment marks rubbing off the transmission? (still have marks on the driveshaft flange)

[522sixth]

Went to bolt up the driveshaft last night and can't get the last 1/8" clearance needed to cleanly line up the driveshaft to the transmission. Also, I don't see my alignment marks on the transmission anymore, just the driveshaft.

Questions:
1) How do you get the necessary clearance to line up the driveshaft to transmission flange without spreading the grease all over? I'm a good 1/8-1/4" away from the clearance I need - I'm hitting in the same place troyguitar was having trouble getting it out. I'll try pulling backwards at point 'b' in troyguitar's paint picture, but again, the new grease will get all over and the manual states 'remove grease from sealing surfaces'. I have the center release bearing bolts loosened to the bearing can drop down some.

2) What should I do about the alignment marks rubbing off the transmission? (still have marks on the driveshaft flange)

Go from the top side and push the DS towards the rear of the car. It should go in then.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app

[milk]

Thanks! I ended up supporting but fully unbolting the center support bearing (instead of just loosening the bolts) and trying with a long screwdriver first - worked like a charm without much force. I did have to re-clean the sealing surfaces and bores as grease got smudged around a bit. Not sure how but the alignment marks re-appeared and were in the right place when I went to line it up!