B8 A4 DIY: K04 Installation

[bakedziti]

I cannot picture this tool. This a ratcheting wrench with a swivel box end?


http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-7...4&blockType=G4

Could be, but I don't see how that would ever work for those cat bolts. The bottom side toward the engine was a bitch. I was thinking that he was referring to something like this.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-i...EXT7/206038458

Even then, I would guess it would be difficult to keep it on the end of the nut.

[poweredbyaudi7]

Next week, and my install begins...

For reference:

Big thanks to Van462 for putting this DIY together. I tackled the job this mother’s day weekend despite not having any friends free to help out. I couldn’t wait and it seemed that every weekend was either raining, I was working or had something else that wouldn’t work so just said screw it and began. This was definitely the biggest job I have ever done with mk4 rad swap being my previous biggest job completed. It was intimidating but this thread and comments were all extremely helpful and encouraging.

I used a 15mm ratcheting flex head wrench for the cat bolts which worked wonders for all three once broken loose (used a TON of liquid wrench and Pb blaster). For the fourth bolt I could not figure out how to get that series of extensions from the bottom of car and was discouraged but I read the rest of the comments and saw mention of a 10” extension with a 15mm deep socket. Though it’s difficult to get it on the nut as you’re doing so blindly with limited hand access, I did get it after about 15 mins of screwing with it with the help of my jack handle as a breaker bar. Getting it back on is even harder but it helps to tape the nut into the socket so it doesn’t fall out. I used my phone video camera with flash on steady to peer at the screen tucked down there so I could sort of barely see what I was doing which helped out big time but is so awkward to manage by yourself. Pulling the Cat out the top is VERY frustrating!! I was ready to lose it when I violently wiggled it and it finally came out the top of the engine bay. You have to get the angle just right!
The wastegate bolts are pain to get at with the allen key but once broken loose you can undo and reinstall with your fingers. I elected to use my old WG actuator and shorten it as I noticed the actuator itself was strong but the door was loose by about 1/4” so shortening rod by ¼” as directed worked like a charm. Make sure you leave enough slack from the bracket as I cut too short and had to clamp it with pliers after extending rod with compressor to clear bracket enough to thread it.

I broke off all three downpipe bolts and could not drill through them with my drill and HSS drill bits (barely made a dent with my weight on drill!) so I took the exhaust off to get drilled by a machinist buddy. The exhaust clamp at the other end was completely seized with no hope so I just broke off those bolts too and it just fell apart. Had to hammer the socket on as they were so badly corroded around the area it didn’t allow it to just slip on. I’m currently running car with nothing after cat so its pretty loud lol my neighbors hate me. I finished at 11:30pm and anxiously started it up to test it but it was too loud to even leave my driveway at that time.
Next day I took it for a ride and SUCCESS! Car is boosting at 16 PSI peak (from 7psi!) and pulls hard. Exhaust roars at full throttle which is kind of nice, but draws a lot of attention. I will have some fun with it for a week or two then bolt it back up. Thanks again everyone who chimed in with advice.

Your best friend during this job


What I used to get that last hidden cat bolt


The tool in position


Comparison of old clogged cat with replacement - Likely clogged from stuck injector

[MikeB8.5]

I used a wrench somewhat close to this for the lower cat bolt. It still takes some ******y but it's a lot easier than using a socket with a shit ton of extensions.


https://www.craftsman.com/products/c...pt-obstruction

[A4x]

Does the cat have to come out to remove the turbo? At least the 4 bolts to the turbo flange need to be removed, and that last one is a PITA, right?

[NLPed68]

I used a 15mm medium well 5-point socket with a swivel 10" extension and wrenched from the firewall area. It was a PITA, but it wasn't absolutely horrible.

[A4x]

I used a 15mm medium well 5-point socket with a swivel 10" extension and wrenched from the firewall area. It was a PITA, but it wasn't absolutely horrible.

I've already got the 034 HFC installed by a local shop, so there looks to be quite a bit more room in that area to get at the bolts. Might be installing a K04 with a buddy in the near future...

[S4_SH1640]

So does anyone know if the b8.5 turbo fits the same as the B8 turbo? Im guessing the manifold and the block mounting is the same but what about all the wiring and the other stuff?

I have a 2010 a4 and looking to purchase a turbo from a 2013 a4.

[blbroo]

So does anyone know if the b8.5 turbo fits the same as the B8 turbo? Im guessing the manifold and the block mounting is the same but what about all the wiring and the other stuff?

I have a 2010 a4 and looking to purchase a turbo from a 2013 a4.

Same turbos


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[S4_SH1640]

Did the B8.5 have the same problem with the wastegate flapper? Do any of you B8.5 guys have this flapper rattling?

I want to buy a b8.5 turbo and install it on my b8 hoping that the flapper wont be an issue in the future.

[estrov]

There are 2 holes for the coolant on the side, one should be plugged. Use whichever allows for easier installation should be able to thread it by hand. Also the plug needs a crush washer too.

If it doesn't look crushed it's Probly not seated all the way, you might be cross threading. Should be a crush washer on each side of the banjo bolt.

There's also another coolant line behind the turbo under the manifold, that one is installed when out of the car, check to see if that is dripping.

The turbo I used had this plugged hole as well. The plug was low profile, but not low enough that the coolant line banjo connection hit the plug and I couldn't get a seal on the coolant line. I ended up engineering a solution of stacking 4 washers together as a spacer to move the banjo connection away from the plug below it. Non-OEM turbo issues.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3o...ew?usp=sharing

[eclipse1]

The turbo has failed on my A4 B8. I'm getting some other work done and dealer offered to get a new turbo installed for ~$1500. I'm debating whether I should get a used one and do it myself of have the dealer put one in. I've already put in too much money on this car and just not sure about more repairs.

Advise?

[pierreb]

Depends on how much you value your time, your skill level and how long you can afford the car to be out of service. $1500 turbo included isn't a bad deal, most dealers would be well north of $2500.

[buelldozer]

Well, 4 1/2 years later I have an update on post #13 from the first page.

The coolant fitting on the turbo is the same size as a 3/8ths inch Allen Wrench. No speciality tools or fiddling with T-55 TorX bits required.

I'd also like to give many many thanks to Dan_Q for this write-up. This made remove the Turbo & Exhaust Manifold so much easier on my way to removing my Head.

[saltysnow]

A big thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread -- without it, I would not have even considered doing my own install.

Not only does my car now continually bring a smile to my face, I learned quite a bit about turning a wrench. In the past month I've gone from stock, to stage 1, to K04 and 034 HFC, to adding a TR8 intercooler and Luft-Technik Intake, all by using the DIY guides on here by myself.

Bakedziti, Frinkferta, the Lettuce Build thread, Ddun, and a bunch of others, you've saved me well over 1k, and allowed me to succeed at something I did not think I would ever have the skills to do. Thanks!

[A4 Centaur]

Yea, big thank you to all who helped here! This is a great thread and I am getting reading to do the K04 now after 5 years and a lot of hard abuse on the IHI Turbo.

[Fastbke170]

Well, 4 1/2 years later I have an update on post #13 from the first page.

The coolant fitting on the turbo is the same size as a 3/8ths inch Allen Wrench. No speciality tools or fiddling with T-55 TorX bits required.

I'd also like to give many many thanks to Dan_Q for this write-up. This made remove the Turbo & Exhaust Manifold so much easier on my way to removing my Head.

I will be tackling this in a couple of months installing a Franken Turbo. the fitting your speaking of is the lower one closest to frame rail? I have a set of triple square sockets and the upper turbo line is a m9 size. There doesn't seem to be much in the way of room to even get a socket on the lower fitting. So with the Allen key set your saying is doable??

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[A4 Centaur]

^Looks like he pulled the tip out of a socket and placed it in the fitting, with a box-ratcheting spanner to turn it.

Also, the other line in the picture looks like a Triple-Square fitting?

[The Infiltrator]

First, this is an awesome DIY! Actually replacing a bad turbo as of right now...

Second, let me add to help fellow DIY'ers!

For the T-55 coolant fitting, we had purchased a set of these TORX bits from your local parts store (Autozone, O'rielly's) previously for another job. Using this and a 10mm angle wrench, we were able to easily loosen the bolt. Here are pictures of the pack of bits and a picture of how:




Have fun!!!!

I'm doing this right now and it's not a T-55 that's supposed to be used, it's an M12. Buuuuut, unless you order it online the stores only have this one you used. These fitting suck ass by the way!

[audi bug]

If you need triple square bit in a tight spot, this is the one to use.
Bits can be used with a ratchet (1/4 inch or 3/8 depending on the size of bits) or externally with a box wrench (11 mm for smaller bits and 16 mm for larger bits)
I bought it for A6 3.0 TFSI to remove idler bolt. I wish this was available a few years ago because I had a triple square set but was too tall for the job and had to buy this set.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[The Infiltrator]

If you need triple square bit in a tight spot, this is the one to use.
Bits can be used with a ratchet (1/4 inch or 3/8 depending on the size of bits) or externally with a box wrench (11 mm for smaller bits and 16 mm for larger bits)
I bought it for A6 3.0 TFSI to remove idler bolt. I wish this was available a few years ago because I had a triple square set but was to tall for the job and had to buy this set.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice!!!

[A4 Centaur]

^Thanks! Put them on order. Getting all the tools and stuff ready for this job

[Fastbke170]

here is just the m12 Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/162480500613

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[The Infiltrator]

So this guy shows the coolant plug moved to the bottom hole. Is this right or are you supposed to leave the plug where it is? The OP shows from what I see the plug left as it came but this is different.

[lettuce]

So this guy shows the coolant plug moved to the bottom hole. Is this right or are you supposed to leave the plug where it is? The OP shows from what I see the plug left as it came but this is different.

Use whichever plug hole your stock turbo uses.

[pierreb]

It depends on how things fit for you but they're supposed to be interchangeable. I believe most people I've read end up having to move it.

[The Infiltrator]

It depends on how things fit for you but they're supposed to be interchangeable. I believe most people I've read end up having to move it.

I moved mine and now it's pissing out and I think it's the swedge since it was on tight as hell. It looks like it pulled it out from the tube a little since it was so tight against the plug below it. The plug was in the top position and I moved it to the lower.

I'll have to check it out again and leak check one more time to pin point.

Edit: I fixed it and it's on page 18 of my build thread.

[A4 Centaur]

All:

I just did the K04-R swap on my 2012 A4 Avant.

I did not have to swap any plugs at all. Repeat: I did not have to move or swap positions of any of the plugs on the JHM K04-R that I put in my Avant.

Please do not think that this needs to happen. The lines will fit and if they are rotated from what "appears" correct then its gonna be ok, at least that is my experience.



Look at where the line is on the picture above^

Now look at the red plastic plug below:



Again look at the line that mounts here:



Didn't have to do anything funny at all. Please just transfer the lines.

[A4 Centaur]

^ In the last picture you can see three (3) distinct lines.

The center one is an oil line.

The lower is a coolant line and you can see the fluid into the bag below the big ass XYZ bolt.

The one towards the back is the "drain line" which comes from the front of the engine via a bunch of hard and flexible tubing.

I REPEAT, you should not have to move any plugs. At least that was my experience.

Please compare your turbos SIDE by SIDE before attempting this work.

[A4 Centaur]

Take a look at the finished product:



Line is exactly where the other one was on the K03





SO look at the picture from the JHM website and its what I had when I installed mine:




And look how lovely the ceramic coating looks after a month of hard use!

MMMMMMM!!

[A4 Centaur]

So this guy shows the coolant plug moved to the bottom hole. Is this right or are you supposed to leave the plug where it is? The OP shows from what I see the plug left as it came but this is different.

Two comparisons of turbos that look totally different to me?

I don't know what is going on in that picture, but its nothing like what I went through.

Can you provide some close ups?

[The Infiltrator]

Two comparisons of turbos that look totally different to me?

I don't know what is going on in that picture, but its nothing like what I went through.

Can you provide some close ups?

This was months ago man. It's all good now and the only issue I had recently was the Go Fast DV valve sticking. I threw the stock one in and it's running great. I just need to put my Snow Performance W/M kit on.

[A4 Centaur]

^ Good to hear!

[A4x]

@ A4 Centaur

I am straight up confused. Regarding the passenger side coolant ports, please see my screenshots of your pics below. Everyone in this thread has said that our cars use the top coolant port.

[Alex1188]

@ A4 Centaur

I am straight up confused. Regarding the passenger side coolant ports, please see my screenshots of your pics below. Everyone in this thread has said that our cars use the top coolant port.

It all depends on what the other side plug is. If one is on top the other is on bottom and vise versa

[A4x]

It all depends on what the other side plug is. If one is on top the other is on bottom and vise versa

Really? I thought it didn't matter which port to use on either side. Whichever lines up with the lines on the car.

[Alex1188]

Really? I thought it didn't matter which port to use on either side. Whichever lines up with the lines on the car.

Technically it doesn't matter, but you'll get the most cooling with cross directional ports being used due to the coolant being in the turbo longer.

[The Infiltrator]

@ A4 Centaur

I am straight up confused. Regarding the passenger side coolant ports, please see my screenshots of your pics below. Everyone in this thread has said that our cars use the top coolant port.

For me I had to swap the top coolant plug to the bottom.

[A4 Centaur]

All:

I did not remove any plugs and placed the lines exactly where the plastic shipping plugs are located.

Where the crazy large sized XYZ bolt sits next to the frame rail is where I placed the coolant line.

I did not remove any plugs.

[A4 Centaur]

All:

Please before you start the job of swapping out your turbo buy some vacuum line to replace all the N75 vacuum hose line.

I mentioned it in my build thread, but it got lost in the pictures and so forth. You will need about a foot and a half (12.5 in) length of 1/4 ID vacuum line.

This will be enough to replace all of the vacuum lines associated with the N75 valve.

I used a mixture of the stock clamps and some stainless steel clamps I had lying around.

Also, the drain hose going back into the block from the turbo, you could use a 1" stainless clamp for the stock POS that I couldn't figure out how to re-attach.

[shaunm82]

All:

Please before you start the job of swapping out your turbo buy some vacuum line to replace all the N75 vacuum hose line.

I mentioned it in my build thread, but it got lost in the pictures and so forth. You will need about a foot and a half (12.5 in) length of 1/4 ID vacuum line.

This will be enough to replace all of the vacuum lines associated with the N75 valve.

I used a mixture of the stock clamps and some stainless steel clamps I had lying around.

Also, the drain hose going back into the block from the turbo, you could use a 1" stainless clamp for the stock POS that I couldn't figure out how to re-attach.

Great info, thanks for posting!