It's time

[thenj3]

the line that goes from the controller to the gate, which port is it on? it should be on the side with the top nipple left open.

[aaronamerica]

do you have the other nipple capped off? if it matters?

before you pull the turbo to adjust the wastegate, I would hook up the n75 valve and let's tweek the map like crazy

remember patience is the key here, don't give up!

[redline380]

the line that goes from the controller to the gate, which port is it on? it should be on the side with the top nipple left open.

i have it hooked up to the top nipple. but either way i dont think it matters. the wastegate is held closed and it opens when it is supposed to. i can try the side nipple but mike hood said to leave the side one either capped off or exposed. it is exposed and open.

do you have the other nipple capped off? if it matters?

before you pull the turbo to adjust the wastegate, I would hook up the n75 valve and let's tweek the map like crazy

remember patience is the key here, don't give up!

im not giving up. ill wait till morning and see if tapp emails me back. i do have to shingle again but should be down around noonish. ill look into it a little more closely. but another thing that came across my mind. maybe the bov is staying open? it works and i have the proper spring in, but the line i have running to it is pretty small. but i am guessing id hear the air escaping, which i cant

[Seerlah]

Wanted to mention what I noticed yesterday. After I took off the oil cooler housing that bolts to the block, oil dripped onto the rear main seal and flywheel facing the block. The block made a nice little alley for the oil to drip. Just wanted to say you may want to look at it on your block, to rule it out.

[M-Hood]

You can check to see if it is a WG issue, just use an air compressor to put pressure into the vacuum line that goes to the WG actuator. Start off at around 10psi and increase it by 1psi each time to see when the WG starts to open. If it opens before 14.5psi you will need to tighten the nut on the actuator arm till it only starts to open at 14.5psi or slightly higher.


The lines to the MBC should not be more then 18", anything longer then just delays the response of opening/closing the WG.


Do you have a close up picture of your WG actuator? Reason I ask is because based on your pictures on the main post it looks like someone tapped the top of the actuator and put in their own nipple, if so then both the nipples on your actuator might be used to open the WG and not setup as a true dual port actuator like you see in this picture.

[redline380]

small update here. i will be bringing my car to get dynoed and tuned tomorrow morning. wish me luck. i really hope i wont be towing it back home. if all goes well i should be knocking on the door of 300awhp. will be posting dyno graphs as long as i get jpegs of them

[AudisInMyBlood]

I'm assuming Minnesota is one of the states that require a front license plates? Def looks hideous. But besides that the car looks great!

[redline380]

yes mn requires front license plate otherwise it would be off. tuning session went ok, but im just not seeing a huge diffeence in power versus base map, but does pull harder than up top. and i have the peace of mind knowing i should be good to go for a while

[M-Hood]

Good numbers for a GT2871r.

[aaronamerica]

nice numbers....now time for race gas and 28psi

[redline380]

even on a dynojet? and what do you guys think about the power curve? im not even at 300hp till 5750rpm. it just seems kinda laggy to me. am i expecting too much?

forgot to mention, this is only 21psi. the tuner wouldnt let me go over that because he said the fueling table is only good to 216% load of the map sensor, which is 21 psi i guess. he didnt know how to make the table add more fuel for over 21 psi without the map sensor recognizing it. make any sense?

[thenj3]

hoesntly to me now. evos do this all day on similar sized turbo if not smaller. and hitting 23lbs at 4500rpm is very late. hell i made that on my shitty tune with my turbo

[redline380]

i guess ill have to check my wastegate tomorrow. im not really liking this late spool. it really only matters in first gear, but even today some idiot in a neon took me off the line. i caught up to him by end of first gear, but the power down low just doesnt feel there. guess ill just start looking for an hx35

[spindoctor]

yes mn requires front license plate otherwise it would be off. tuning session went ok, but im just not seeing a huge diffeence in power versus base map, but does pull harder than up top. and i have the peace of mind knowing i should be good to go for a while

Nice numbers at 21psi. Not trying to be a prick but just curious...Any ballpark figure if it's on a dyno dynamics or mustang dyno? 10% less? We don't have dynojet here btw.

Definitely not a dynojet, prolly be a dynapack but here's dyno sheet from an B6 equipped with APR stage 3+ goodies on 98ron(93 octane) fuel.



horsepower with boost figures



Horsepower with torque figures(in Nm)

[M-Hood]

Nice numbers at 21psi. Not trying to be a prick but just curious...Any ballpark figure if it's on a dyno dynamics or mustang dyno? 10% less? We don't have dynojet here btw.

Definitely not a dynojet, prolly be a dynapack but here's dyno sheet from an B6 equipped with APR stage 3+ goodies on 98ron(93 octane) fuel.

His dyno is on a dynojet, it even says it right at the top of his dyno chart.

The other 2 dyno charts you posted is of a Dynapak which attaches to each hub and if you look at the dyno chart it says "torque flywheel" which means it is giving crank hp readings not whp. That car is only making around 292hp and 229.5tq at the wheels. it is also a SAE correction reading which means the car could actually be making less then that depending on the adjusted altitude.

Here is a video of a car on that shops dyno. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOUjmgINGd0


His turbo is coming on late but is still making good peak hp. Just need to figure out why it is hitting 21psi at 4600 rpm and not sooner.

[redline380]

Think the combo of .86 hotside and 8.5 compression would increase the lag that much?

[spindoctor]

Think the combo of .86 hotside and 8.5 compression would increase the lag that much?

Add timing, run 0.64 turbine housing?

[redline380]

i dont think im going to mess with it. think i just look into going stroker and much larger turbo. it would be kinda neat to get into the 4-500awhp range. and i found a really good deal on cp stroker pistons for $120 a piece. all i need is a job and ill start to gather parts

[CCA4]

i dont think im going to mess with it. think i just look into going stroker and much larger turbo. it would be kinda neat to get into the 4-500awhp range. and i found a really good deal on cp stroker pistons for $120 a piece. all i need is a job and ill start to gather parts

That didn't take long lol. Gonna stroke your old block and swap it back in?

[redline380]

i think ill pick up another block just for ease and sell my shortblock. all i really need is a block and oil pan. but... my turbo has developed a fair amount of shaft play so i think ill have to get a new chra soon. i knew it was kinda risky buying a used turbo but i got such a good deal on it i cant get that mad. im sure ill get my money back on it all.

[Poopie]

good deal on the cp pistons. thats what i'm running. where did you find them? i paid 525 shipped for mine brand new. yours comes with new rings right? building a spare block is definitely the way to go.

[redline380]

didnt buy them yet. it will be another winter project if i can pick up a decent job. heres a link. http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...tons-audi.html comes with rings and wrist pins, with coating and stuff available. the valve reliefs are even extra big for oversized valves. ive told other people about this site. some stuff they got is really shitty, but they got good deals on other things too. they list the supertech valvespring kit for $392, which is $60 cheaper than integrated. its the same site i got my powerpak pistons that im running now for only $380 on special.

[flynnr]

wait a minute.... you are running .86 hot side?! can't believe no one has made a bigger deal about that yet. you would see a big increase in low end spool with the .63 (or .64 whatever it is)

anyways, with the .86, you should be pusing 28psi and loving every minute of it up top. If I were you I would buy morchewski's 1000cc injectors and boost till like 30psi. I would bet 360+whp is not out of the question.

If you are looking for quick spool, your problem is 100% your hot side, the little 1.8 just can't spool that very well.

[M-Hood]

didnt buy them yet. it will be another winter project if i can pick up a decent job. heres a link. http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...tons-audi.html comes with rings and wrist pins, with coating and stuff available. the valve reliefs are even extra big for oversized valves. ive told other people about this site. some stuff they got is really shitty, but they got good deals on other things too. they list the supertech valvespring kit for $392, which is $60 cheaper than integrated. its the same site i got my powerpak pistons that im running now for only $380 on special.

Looks like the old part numbers. A few months ago CP stopped making them, redesigned them, gave them new part numbers and the prices went up. I know this because I tried ordering a SC7609 Kit and then was told that CP no longer sells that part number and that was just in June, ended up having to wait 3-4 weeks for CP to make the newer version. So it just looks like that shop is selling the older version pistons.

wait a minute.... you are running .86 hot side?! can't believe no one has made a bigger deal about that yet. you would see a big increase in low end spool with the .63 (or .64 whatever it is)

anyways, with the .86, you should be pusing 28psi and loving every minute of it up top. If I were you I would buy morchewski's 1000cc injectors and boost till like 30psi. I would bet 360+whp is not out of the question.

If you are looking for quick spool, your problem is 100% your hot side, the little 1.8 just can't spool that very well.

Yeah on that small of a turbo there is no reason to be running a .86 a/r, should be running a .64.

[redline380]

wait a minute.... you are running .86 hot side?! can't believe no one has made a bigger deal about that yet. you would see a big increase in low end spool with the .63 (or .64 whatever it is)

anyways, with the .86, you should be pusing 28psi and loving every minute of it up top. If I were you I would buy morchewski's 1000cc injectors and boost till like 30psi. I would bet 360+whp is not out of the question.

If you are looking for quick spool, your problem is 100% your hot side, the little 1.8 just can't spool that very well.

you guys do know this is a t25, right? thought the .86 t25 was similar spool to the t3 .64? i actually was gonna buy mike's injectors for e85, but i opted to save the money and just have stellar give me a solid tune.

Looks like the old part numbers. A few months ago CP stopped making them, redesigned them, gave them new part numbers and the prices went up. I know this because I tried ordering a SC7609 Kit and then was told that CP no longer sells that part number and that was just in June, ended up having to wait 3-4 weeks for CP to make the newer version. So it just looks like that shop is selling the older version pistons.

i couldnt cae less if they were a 100 years old as long as they work. im not the "latest and greatest" type of guy. either way, 480 for a set of stroker pistons? helluva deal. i just gotta decide on a set of rods. thinking the tuscans, or maybe carillo, or pauter. i gotta do some shopping for those. and im kinda set on a hx35 with hx40 60mm compressor wheel and .70 bullseye housing. should offer quite a bit of horses. the hx35 i want to buy has a damaged compressor wheel, so i thought why not upgrade right off the bat? anyone know of an a4 running the hx35/40 hybrid? i did start a thread labeled need holset info

[redline380]

on a side note, my car is having some sort of issue. it drives great 99% of the time, but when i get on it REALLY hard, bad things happen. let me explain. on the way to my house, i have a nice country mile to go down before turning onto the dirt road. i usually go WOT through fourth (over 100mph) and coast in gear the rest of the way. Last couple times ive done this, the car misfires when i make the turn onto the dirt road, in second gear. it goes away after 200 ft and all is good. tonight, i gave a friend and got on it about as hard. when i came to a stop to turn around, the car sputtered and died. wouldnt start up immediately after, and cranked kinda slow like voltage was low. let it sit for a mintue and started right back up. its not really an issue cause i only drive it that hard once or twice a week, but it still shouldnt run like that. any guesses?

[M-Hood]

you guys do know this is a t25, right? thought the .86 t25 was similar spool to the t3 .64? i actually was gonna buy mike's injectors for e85, but i opted to save the money and just have stellar give me a solid tune.



i couldnt cae less if they were a 100 years old as long as they work. im not the "latest and greatest" type of guy. either way, 480 for a set of stroker pistons? helluva deal. i just gotta decide on a set of rods. thinking the tuscans, or maybe carillo, or pauter. i gotta do some shopping for those. and im kinda set on a hx35 with hx40 60mm compressor wheel and .70 bullseye housing. should offer quite a bit of horses. the hx35 i want to buy has a damaged compressor wheel, so i thought why not upgrade right off the bat? anyone know of an a4 running the hx35/40 hybrid? i did start a thread labeled need holset info

Yes we know it is a T25 because only the T25 comes in a .64 and .86 a/r, while the T3 comes in a .63 and .82.


Yes that is a good price for the old stock, IIRC those normally sold for low to mid $500.

[redline380]

well a little update on the project. i ordered fsi coils to help resolve my misfires after heavy load situation. im pretty mine are from the factory. either way we'll see how that goes. got the holset in the mail, although its not an hx35, its a wh1c. pretty much the same thing, but it does need some love. i ordered a new turbine shaft/wheel and rebuild kit today. just need a compressor wheel and the turbo should be good to go. but im more excited about what i should be picking up tomorrow from a junkyard in st. paul. ill post pics tomorrow, but i should be coming back with two core motors. ones a 2.0 liter, ones a 1.8t. putting them together should be a nice upgrade , especially with a BAT. Project ETA- Spring 2013

[thenj3]

sweet deal. do you have plans on running the holset on the 1.8 to compare between the stroker?

[Poopie]

Yes we know it is a T25 because only the T25 comes in a .64 and .86 a/r, while the T3 comes in a .63 and .82.


Yes that is a good price for the old stock, IIRC those normally sold for low to mid $500.

yeah i paid 530 for mine. nice pistons though. worth the coin.

[redline380]

not really. if anything id through in the 2 liter to see how it works with my 2871r. im prolly just gonna swap it all in at once for a dramatic change. i have no money for this, but ive been doind a lot of shingling lately and more to come, so thats extra cash, not to mention im pretty sure i smoked my interview today, which means a job for me next week or so. that combined with snow plowing money ($60 an hour bitches) spring is a reality i think for this project. but i do need to save $5000 by next august since i plan on going to law school. which is another point. i need this thing to be reliable enough to drive across the country in case i need to move for a legal degree. but i should mention im getting the motors for what i think is a pretty good deal, plus i get to inspect the avh crank journals first.

[redline380]

its official. going 2 liter with the holset wh1c. good enough to be moved to the projects and builds sections yet? either way i picked up these two gems for $400 total. should easily get my money back when i sell off what i dont need. the aeg 2 liter is out of a 2000 beetle, the 1.8 out of a 2004 beetle. pics of the interior motors to come.

[Poopie]

good deal. stroker for like $2000 after said and done.

then sell off your extras. could be a free build. lol

[Seerlah]

You need to request to be moved to the build section . I will ask once my car is running.

[redline380]

well i officially request for my thread to be in projects and builds then. but here are photos of the new stuff, inlcuding the 92.8 crank, the 1.8 block, and reason why the 1.8 was in the junkyard. i never figured out why the 2.0 was in there. everything looked fine. i took a caliper to the crank journals and they all speced out great. and maybe someone can answer this burning question i have. what exactly is the difference between 06a 1.8t and 06a 2.0? the only difference (besides the obvious bore) is of course the oil squirters. beyond that i cant find a single difference in the blocks themselves. will the 2.0 block drop right in? also, do i have to transefer the trigger wheel from the 1.8 crank to the 2.0? im pretty sure they are the same specs, but not positive.

[nynoah]

I am so jealous of the 2.0 stroker for that price. LUCKY!!!!

[Poopie]

i transfered trigger wheels as did many others. it doesn't take much effort. 3 torx screws and its off. Then i put a small tack on the bolt with my tig to prevent it from ever backing out.

[redline380]

transferred trigger wheels tonight. i used red loctite so hopefully thats good enough. cant wait to build this thing up! something about a project in my head that actually comes together makes me happy. sure, this shit is an entire waste of money, but damn is it fun wasting it. my fsi coils will be in tomorrow so the 2871r should be running well again. but i would sure recommend people finding used shit. makes building much cheaper. plus, you get the enjoymeny of actually building your car yourself.cant wait to get the project running

[redline380]

forgot i have another question about 2.0/1.8 interchangable parts. i noticed the harmonic balancer on the 2.0 (and the 1.8t I bought for that matter) dont have a provision for an a/c belt. since im not running a/c, can i run the 2.0/ new 1.8t harmonic balancer? no use in running a balancer that has more mass than i need to run. note: the 2.0 aeg and 1.8t awv harmonic balancers are the same p/n.

[Crispy222]

If you're serious about running the holset, you're looking to run the motor to 9k rpm. Then you'll want to get a rotating parts balance and run the Fluiddamper. The oem damper can't take the speed/torque you're going to create. And idea of the miles on the AEG motor? Any skirt wear on the pistons that came out of it? Might want to have the bore checked out for cylindrical tolerance.