Fuel Rail Pressure Regulator Valve Install/Replacement

[Okedokey]

Just to add, when I did my carbon clean and removed the manifold, easier, much easier to do then. I put the RS4 on in and so far no issues.

Moral of the story, do you carbon cleans, injector orings etc while you're at it :)

[emptys6gt3]

In the middle of this, valve loosen with heavily modified crows foot but held firm by hard line. Any ideas how to get out and new on installed.
Thx

[emptys6gt3]

In the middle of this, valve loosen with heavily modified crows foot but held firm by hard line. Any ideas how to get out and new on installed.
Thx

Figured out that disconnecting all hard fuel lines connections is required and should be added to the DIY.


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[AudiB720TS]

Doing this now.

I have disconnected the fuel line and I am now attempting to remove the actual PRV:

- Cannot use 17mm crows foot (too wide at the bottom, hits both IM and some hose)
- Cannot get a 17mm deep socket onto it (angle is not great, hits the hard fuel line and something else)
- Cannot get a 17 mm wrench on it (seen in picture below).

What to use? I am thinking I can grind down my 17mm wrench a bit but it doesnt seem ideal.

[emptys6gt3]

Grind down the 17mm crows foot as much as possible, that’s what I did to make it work, even the it’s tight quarters


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[AudiB720TS]

So... having done this I would seriously advice against it.
Chances are you will spend more hours grinding tools down to fit the tight quarters, than would have been spent just removing the intake manifold.

If you are still attempting this DIY, then this picture gives an idea about how much material to remove.
Note that even with this amount of grinding, it was still very tight. Luckily, once the PRV is loose you can use your fingers to turn it.


Also, to install the new PRV you may need some flex to clear the fuel line.
I taped my PRV to an extension and the tape gave the necessary flex to clear things while still providing enough strenght to allow for the initial seating of the PRV into the rail.

[2stroke]

For everyone running stage 2 and above tunes, it is recommended you upgrade the PRV ( Pressure Regulator Valve ).

If you have a 2005-2006 you have a 116 Bar valve ----> VAG #
If you have a 2007-2008 you have a 126 Bar valve ----> VAG # 06D 130 757 C
Either way you will most likely have to replace this part because tunes above stage 2 usually require more pressure than what Audi had intended.

To date, the only options are:
1. Buy the RS4 136 Bar PRV though this is not optimal for our cars.
2. Contact www.HPFPupgrade.com and buy one of their uprated valves.

When I did my carbon clean I put the RS4 PRV in and so far no issues.

Early A4 has the 116 Bar PRV.
Late A4 has the uprated 126 Bar PRV.
RS4 has the 136 Bar PRV.

What would be the disadvantages of using the RS4 136 Bar PRV instead of the 116 or 126 Bar PRV ?

How to get in contact with www.HPFPupgrade.com ?
The link appears to be dead !


.

[Jayz691]

What would be the disadvantages of using the RS4 136 Bar PRV instead of the 116 or 126 Bar PRV ?

How to get in contact with www.HPFPupgrade.com ?
The link appears to be dead !


.

This is an old thread, and hpfpupgrade.com is no longer. No disadvantage, just not necessary unless tuned, and tune runs a higher rail pressure. I went with an APR 155bar prv. Here in US, the rs4 is about $120 for 136bar. I paid $200/shipped for the 155bar APR. But other countries like UK, the rs4 can be had for like $50.

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[arankaspar1]

Anyone know what the spec is on this Block08/addr 103?
My Stasis tune (bought by Revo) is requesting -12 degrees timing retard on all 4 cylinders after 5700RPM and up.
I have replaced... S3injectors, MAF, MAP, RailPressureSensor, Filter, LPFP, FuelControlModule, CamFollower, N80PurgeV., Swapped HPFP with my old spare and it's still asking for that timing about that RPM.

My number one question now is do you guys think this is mechanical (fuel) related or tune related? Last engine lost oil pressure and died instantly after me owning car for 1.5 yrs. Not sure of the timing numbers from before unfortunately.
2nd/3rd gear pull log... https://1drv.ms/x/s!Akrf9oowYt38hTtY...yx34g?e=kPaxDf

[canadianA4B7]

Cam sensor? Knock sensor are super sensitive too. I’d think if all the hard parts are new a sensor is causing you grief.

[EvolutionArmory]

Cam sensor? Knock sensor are super sensitive too. I’d think if all the hard parts are new a sensor is causing you grief.

Look at his logs in his thread and tell me what you think. His car is pulling 12 degrees of timing across all 4 cylinders and it’s still making 9-10 degrees of advance. It means his car doesn’t have a proper K04 tune (stasis). No K04 tune asks for over 20 degrees of advance on 91 octane. Not even 100 octane tunes ask for that much. Mine only asks for 11 on 93 and 17 on 100.

[Guybuddy1by1]

sorry to bump an old thread, but is this the same as the Low pressure fuel sensor? i know you say to upgrade it but i think i got a OEM in the mail, it looks a bit different, are both the same install??

The low pressure sensor is on the high pressure fuel pump.