What Did You Do To Your B7 Today?..

[Jayz691]

Billet VC UPDATE...
So I did smoke test it yesterday, and unfortunately, its not fully sealed..
I contacted the company to see what they have to say, but wont hear anything till prob Mon or Tues.
So for solutions.. The plate needs some sort of sealing surface. Could use some RTV but I want the cover to still be removable, and not make a mess of it. So it am making a copy of the cover, in a rubber/fiber gasket material. Little more work than using rtv/anerobic sealant, but will still be removable.
The PCV plate they include in case you wanna go the catch can route, includes a plastic layer to help seal. So the plate needs something similar. I mentioned all this in my email, so we'll see what they say. Would be easy for them too revise this to seal properly.
Incuded some pics..
Will update after testing again.0323241926a.jpg0323241926b.jpg0323241655.jpg0323241933_HDR.jpg0323242042_HDR.jpg

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[texasboy21]

What's the purpose of the baffle? My IE cover does not have one, but it' also not provisioned for a PCV valve.

[Jayz691]

What's the purpose of the baffle? My IE cover does not have one, but it' also not provisioned for a PCV valve.

Its designed like a factory one, so you can use a factory PCV setup with it. That's the main reason for testing it, no other billet cover has PCV provisions.
For someone like myself with cold winters, be nice to have a billet cover I can run without the need of a catch can..
But seems it needs a little tweeking, sadly. Nothing major, but not "bolt on" out the box. Waiting to hear back from the company this week.
Not a big deal for me, but will turn a lot of people off from buying.

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[texasboy21]

Its designed like a factory one, so you can use a factory PCV setup with it. That's the main reason for testing it, no other billet cover has PCV provisions.
For someone like myself with cold winters, be nice to have a billet cover I can run without the need of a catch can..
But seems it needs a little tweeking, sadly. Nothing major, but not "bolt on" out the box. Waiting to hear back from the company this week.
Not a big deal for me, but will turn a lot of people off from buying.

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Good stuff!

[Jayz691]

Another Billet VC update:
Ok, so the rubber/fiber gasket didn't work 100%. Seems theres just not enough screws to hold pressure across the whole plate. The whole mating surfase is not getting compression to the gasket. Even tried some(longer) hex bolts with washers, no go.
So looks like ill just have to use a sealant...
Good news on the n80 ports though. Thought they were too big, but after measuring/testing, theyre good. Only thing, the one on the IM side needs a little tapering on the end, to allow the clip to slide in all the way. No big deal.
I also test fit coil packs, all good there0324241850a_HDR.jpg0324241857.jpg0324241857a.jpg0324241902_HDR.jpg0324241903_HDR.jpg

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[james12lucy]

I?m still making progress, but nothing drastic. I ended up using a broken carbon hockey stick to mount my CTS Turbo FMIC. I?m running an aluminum rad cradle and it doesn?t have provisions to mount the FMIC (the rad is in the trunk).

I still need to trim off the ends so the lights will mount and clean up then hardware, but I like it. I can start fabbing my intercooler piping, and the best part is the dry sump mandrel now has proper clearance. I can also access the dry sump pump to build pressure using a drill with the FMIC mounted.




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[oVeRdOsE]

Finally did the wastegate spring mod.

When Ive flashed the car back early 2015, I was regularly getting 22psi, and some pikes at 25psi (when the gauge flashed red when you hit 25psi).

Im 99% sure, Unitronic advertised their tune @22psi in 2015, now it shows 19psi....

Strangely enough I was getting 18psi-19psi ish since a year, car getting old.


SPRING mod DONE : back ! 22psi and some pikes on heavy highway pull at 25psi.



why I didnt simply adjust the rod? well, goold luck on a old car with no space. This bolt must be welded there.


Also, this is NOT a 20 min job. The way the guy attach the spring in that thread, there's no way this will hold, no gap between the adjusting screw and the frame

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...20-and-20-mins

[Jayz691]

Ya need a long needle nose to adjust it, did it years ago when I still had a k03.
Only issue is ya dont know what the actual spring pressure is now.
Have ya done any logs to see what you get midrange vs requested?
If the tune is requesting 18-19psi, ya font want 25psi..
Don't think I like this idea, but oh well, lol.
Curious what the spring pressure is now. If ya have an extra n75, and have some extra time.. Unplug your n75, and plug into a spare. Take it for a ride and so a boost logs, see what it hits..

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[oVeRdOsE]

this makes sense.

however, many did this no issue. Ill do a log, but I dont have my previous logs when I was around 22psi all the time, so hard to tell if it request the same thing. I didnt change anything since 2015 on the engine. Still have same intake, same exhaust, same turbo, same gauges, same tune, dv+ (now refreshed because I thought it was the issue), new N75 (no change).
My last item was the waste gate normal wear, where a lot of members reported.

For now, it act just like before.


( I used : Century Spring C-219 Extension Spring 4-1/2" L 15/32" OD .041" WD 2-Pk)

[Phosphorust]

Hey guys. Long time lurker here in the B7 A4 forum. I've been restoring an Audi that I picked up for $1,300 in the worst condition it could possibly be in. I'd put everything I've fixed on it so far, but I'm limiting myself to a short story rather than a novel.

Exterior-wise, I've got new headlights, an S4 front bumper, tinted side markers and taillights (yes i know people hate the smoked lenses but i like it), a trunk+rear windshield spoiler, and new to me Enkei wheels on slotted rotors. I just bought a C6 A6 honeycomb grille to cut up and drop in on my front bumper and already painted my crash bar gloss black. Once I do the grille upgrade, I plan on buying the honeycomb fog light trim too.

Performance-wise, I've got a CTS Turbo Catless Testpipe, a Cold air intake, upgraded spark plugs and upgraded coil packs. I plan on Stage 2'ing it once I fix my turbo's coolant leak.

[80sGuy]

^^
That's a steal of a deal. How much did you ended up spending on it.

[08 classic]

Keep it up, as these cars are getting older I think its more important to ensure you have a good running car before you start adding more power to it. Do your maintenance with due diligence and take it from there. Best of luck with your project.

[Phosphorust]

^^
That's a steal of a deal. How much did you ended up spending on it.

So far I'm in the hole about $3,500 total, including the cost of purchase. Most people would never ever touch this car in the state it was when I got it. 3 base line wheels, 1 S-Line wheel, and 3 of the tires had holes in them. My muffler is rotted away still and idk what to buy to fit with it now because I have a CTS Turbo Test pipe. For sharks and goggles I'll put below everything I've had to fix.

• Starter
• Starter relay
• ECU cover (water was leaking into the driver side floor
• Coil packs
• Spark plugs
• Wheels + tires
• Brakes
• Brake line flush
• Brake calipers (rear)
• Rotors
• Oil change + filter
• New battery
• New power steering pump
• Power steering flush (the guy before me put transmission fluid in it...)
• A pulley wheel that spun a bearing and a new serpentine belt
• Reconnected fuel pump underneath the rear seats (it was squirting gasoline into my car when I first started trying to crank it)
• Wiper linkage
• Needed a new front bumper
• Needed a new hood
• Needs new glass on the passenger side mirror
• Needed a front crash bar
• Needs a new head unit (im going aftermarket anyways)
• Coolant inlet leak on the turbo
• Oil return line leak on the turbo
• New ceramic brake pads

[BeefyA4]

Another Billet VC update:
Ok, so the rubber/fiber gasket didn't work 100%. Seems theres just not enough screws to hold pressure across the whole plate. The whole mating surfase is not getting compression to the gasket. Even tried some(longer) hex bolts with washers, no go.
So looks like ill just have to use a sealant...
Good news on the n80 ports though. Thought they were too big, but after measuring/testing, theyre good. Only thing, the one on the IM side needs a little tapering on the end, to allow the clip to slide in all the way. No big deal.
I also test fit coil packs, all good there0324241850a_HDR.jpg0324241857.jpg0324241857a.jpg0324241902_HDR.jpg0324241903_HDR.jpg

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So I have been meaning to make a thread on this actually. I also ordered a valve cover from them and told them the passages are not sealed. They told me this is not an issue and no one else has complained about that and they have tons of sales. I told them they need to be sealed and they just argued with me saying their engineers have looked into it and I'm wrong, and ghosted me. The fitting for the metal tube going from the VC to the turbo also wasn't even close to the right size, they sent me a new one that was closer but still not right but they ghosted me after this so I had to use tape to make it bigger. I also had to drill out another fitting to make the very small line on the other side able to fit into it. I ended up sealing the passages with RTV which I am very upset about but they won't respond for a return and also won't accept they need to make a gasket for this. Oh they also leaked their entire customer email list accidentally.... It would be really nice to spread this info lol I really need to make that thread.

[BeefyA4]

431988657_395636626590957_454269895178817695_n.jpg My VC, it's too bad they don't want to work with customers when they mess up, because it's a great looking product.

[Jayz691]

I wound up sealing it within a thing bead of RTV, which isnt a big deal to ne. Its the only way too really do its. I made a gasket out of rubber/fiber, but theres not enough screws to hold it tight enough to fully seal.
The fittings were fine on mine, I just had to taper the one for the n80 line(IM side). But had to trim the PCV so its wouldnt hit on the sides. They either need a spacer, or have the face come out onother 1/4" or so. Its hits on both ends, where it curves.
Sad thing is it would be so easy for them too fix, but I still am glad I got it..
Edit:for some reason my pics won't upload. Ill post them when I can..

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[80sGuy]

More preventive maintenance for this 17 year old....

Coolant Reservoir Cap:
I started sensing some faint sweet smell around the front and under the wheel well. No sign of leaks anywhere but I can smell the stuff lingering in the air. I believe the cap is on its last leg of holding pressure and it best just to replace it. Guess what, no more faint smell of sweet coolant lingering!


New (top), Old (bottom)





Engine Oil Dipstick:
Going on third (second replacement) and I'm getting tired of this. Keeps on breaking off on the grip, so this time I decided to lube some silicone grease around it. All the vital areas that travel like the mid guide, and grip on ring. This is safe and designed for o-rings and should be good enough, hopefully it'll hold up longer, if not indefinitely. It feels really good when pulling in and out.






Last but not least, time to replace some important Sensors. Last month I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKS) while changing out the nearby adjacent old leaky Oil Filter Housing. Now I think it is time to also replace the Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS). They both have pretty much the same symptoms and for 17 years old, going on 18 years it definitely needs to be replaced before it takes a dump on me! These sensors are often overlooked and/or ignored and when failed it can really leave you scratching your head (see symptoms below). Though the CPS is located on top of the cam/timing belt cover, positioning to the T30 torx bolt isn't as easy to get to as it looks due to limited space.


Old part: tip looked all brown (not sure if it's original color from '07-08 part) and has a faint discoloration/burn mark.




Done!


Note:
Symptoms of Camshaft Position Sensor (also very similar to Crankshaft Position Sensor)

Poor Fuel Economy: A failing camshaft position sensor will provide inaccurate data to the engine control module. With the wrong information, your engine will not be able to run as efficiently as it should causing it to consume more fuel.
Stalling: When the fuel injectors are not delivering the proper amount of fuel, the engine could experience stalling.
Engine Idles Roughly: A rough idling engine could be caused by a failing camshaft position sensor. This issue is more evident when the engine is idling.
Hesitation: Hesitation during acceleration is a common issue that you may experience with a bad camshaft sensor.
Failed Emissions Test: When the engine is not performing properly, it will not be able to burn fuel efficiently. This can lead to increased emissions.
Smell of Gas: Unburned fuel can make its way out of your tailpipe which can produce a noticeable smell of gas.
Car Will Not Start: Over time, as the camshaft position sensor fails, the signal it sends to the engine control module weakens. When the engine no longer receives the signal, you will not be able to start your car.
Engine Misfires: A failing camshaft position sensor can cause your engine to misfire.
Transmission Shifting Problems: The data sent to the engine control module can stop the transmission from shifting properly. In some vehicles, there is a security feature that puts the car in “limp mode.” This helps to prevent major engine damage.
Check Engine Light is Illuminated: When your vehicle is experiencing a problem, it will trigger the check engine light. The light can be triggered by a number of different reasons.

[Charles.waite]

Replaced my oil filter housing gaskets today since my b7 had graduated from seeping enough oil to just be sorta damp under the engine to leaving oil stains on the street.

After discovering that with H&R springs I can’t get my car up on my ramps, and screwing around with my small jack for 30 minute and finally giving up and moving to the large jack (which I don’t enjoy using since it’s so damn heavy) I finally dug in. Followed the diy on here and had watched the YouTube video beforehand just to familiarize myself.

It went smoothly and I spent a good 30 minutes cleaning the housing and scarping the carbon buildup off of many of the passages. Then I was prying at the old gaskets which were crusty as hell and with a gentle tap the inner section of one of the coolant passages on the housing broke off.



I was only planning on replacing the gaskets so I had a set of Mahle gaskets, but, given how bad the crack was, I didn’t see how that coolant passage would ever properly seal again. So I called up my local dealer and bit the bullet on a new $415 housing. So much for being thrifty I guess. On the plus side, it came with a new filter already installed, a new filter basket and new OEM seals. Small wins but whatever.

Got that back in relatively quickly after spending 20 minutes trying to find the 4th housing bolt that had disappeared into the ether when I removed it. Of course the last little 10mm nut that held one of the brackets to another bracket fell like 10 times and that took another 20+ minutes of poking at crevices with my telescoping magnet until I got it on there.

Hopefully this is the end of my oily engine bay (and the hot oil smell that follows my car around too). I’m be far more pleased if I didn’t need to buy a new housing but I’m glad it’s sorted.


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[Jayz691]

Damm!! $415, holy crap, lol. Man they've gone up, like everything I guess. Theyre $300 from ECS, but guess if ya couldn't wait, that don't matter...

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[Charles.waite]

Yea they’re ridiculous. Price was including tax, but yea I’d have been smarter to have just bought the whole damn thing ahead of time, but I’m just glad the dealer had one in stock. Would have sucked to be down a car while paying expedited shipping to hope to have it by midweek.

Either way I’m just glad the job wasn’t too horrible. Expect for the tsunami of coolant and oil when I pulled the cooler off. Top tip, kids: don’t forget to drain the coolant first!


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[80sGuy]

It is always wise to replace the entire filter housing at such age, preferably genuine parts of course. Gaskets will not hold up long even if you were to replace them.

[oVeRdOsE]

use Elring Curil T Liquid Gasket for this oil filter housing job.

[Charles.waite]

It is always wise to replace the entire filter housing at such age, preferably genuine parts of course. Gaskets will not hold up long even if you were to replace them.

Yea I had my reasons for trying to limp this old housing along for longer rather than buy a new one but ultimately I needed to get this fixed.

And yea agreed on OEM parts only for this job.


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[Jayz691]

This is way its good the aluminum housing is working out. $100 vs $400... Till now, genuine was the only solid option.

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[Charles.waite]

This is way its good the aluminum housing is working out. $100 vs $400... Till now, genuine was the only solid option.

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TIL there is a cast aluminum version available on Amazon from MITZONE whoever tf that is. Is that the one you’re talking about?!

Also, is it just me or has Tapatalk gotten so slow it’s nearly unusable?


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[Jayz691]

TIL there is a cast aluminum version available on Amazon from MITZONE whoever tf that is. Is that the one you’re talking about?!

Also, is it just me or has Tapatalk gotten so slow it’s nearly unusable?


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Yes, thats the one people are using. So far, good results. Since its new, it'll take time too know how durable it is, but it works.

And AZ has been glitchy fot me, for a few weeks now. Slow, can't upload pics, PITA..
I use the mobile app, on my LG phone.

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[Willënskraft]

Installed Milltek exhaust, Techtonics Tuning downpipe, and 034 Motorsport HFC. Deeper exhaust tone and turbo spools faster. I likey

[Theiceman]

TIL there is a cast aluminum version available on Amazon from MITZONE whoever tf that is. Is that the one you’re talking about?!

Also, is it just me or has Tapatalk gotten so slow it’s nearly unusable?


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Charles i'm a bit shocked at this .. you have ben around a long time. You KNOW that just replacing the gaskets is a doomed project right from the start lol.

I guess its like soldiers that go to war, they have to think that they are the one guy that will beat the odds and survive ...

RIP to this housing that didn't make it back ...

[Phosphorust]

Did the C6 A6 Honeycomb Grille mesh swap for the B7 A4 S-Line grille. Front bumper isn't fully on and hood isn't fully closed because I have to cut my new intercooler air channels so the driver side bumper mounting bolts will go through the holes properly.

Check it out:

[JON.TRU]

my RS4/Allroad inspired A4 S.line

Fixed after a collision i had last month.
250,000+miles

B7 A4road by Jonathan Truong, on Flickr
B7 A4road by Jonathan Truong, on Flickr

[Phosphorust]

Gorgeous car!

[chili dog]

Digging both cars above!

my RS4/Allroad inspired A4 S.line

If you don’t already have it, the ECS rear diffuser looks great on a wagon.





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[oVeRdOsE]

my RS4/Allroad inspired A4 S.line

Fixed after a collision i had last month.
250,000+miles

sweet, avant with rs4.

I dont have wider fender lip, but I run stretched tires !

flush !

[Jayz691]

sweet, avant with rs4.

I dont have wider fender lip, but I run stretched tires !

flush !

Nice S-line avant. Is it a manual TI?

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[tankdeer]

Nice S-line avant. Is it a manual TI?

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I can tell by looking at it that it's not a Ti (Silver roof rails and headliner)

[oVeRdOsE]

got it, it's manual, real s-line (2008), but no TI. Chrome delete and front grill blacked out.

[Jayz691]

I can tell by looking at it that it's not a Ti (Silver roof rails and headliner)

Oh, yeah, didn't look at the roof rails, just the trim..

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[oVeRdOsE]

Oh, yeah, didn't look at the roof rails, just the trim..

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I wish to have a TI, but the trim I have not bad. I like the silver rails with the silver wheels and front audi chrome logo and chrome grill bars. It fits the look imo.

Not a unicorn, but well loaded. I miss : garage remote, rear heating seats, directional headlight ( but they are level). But I have navi, memory seats, bose system. 2008 came with rs4 pedals too OEM.

Nice little package, I keep it clean, I dont ride it in winter time.

stage 2 on meth and lwfw clutch kit. Enough to have fun.

[Charles.waite]

Has anyone successfully recalibrated their speedometer? Mine reads pretty consistently 10% off on the dial and it’s annoying.

Amusingly, the latest RNSE custom firmware enables a digital speedometer in the DIS and it’s dead on accurate compared to Waze GPS as well as those roadside “you’re going this fast” things neighborhoods tend to have near schools.

It’s always been a bit off, even in my b6 but it’s a solid 10% and it’s beginning to really bug me. Any ideas? I’m seeing that VCDS doesn’t allow you to do it but do any of those VAG-Commander type utilities work?


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[a4audi4fun]

https://blog.goosmannlaw.com/risk-ma...of%2050%20mph.

According to this, 10% is within spec unless there's a newer version of the regulation in place, Most manufacturers calibrate the speedo to read high so that they won't get sued because the speedo indicated a slower speed than they were actually travelling and they got ticketed. GPS should be pretty close to 100% accurate as it's calculating based on time and signals received and there probably isn't any speed related calibration regulation they need adhere to. if you didn't have a phone app or GPS device you wouldn't evenknow your speedo is off spec.