Ultimate Catch Can Reference

[audi8844]

Any chance anyone could sell me their oil return fitting for the oil pan from 034 CC kit if you don't plan on using it?

Thanks

Chooch, you got pm

Looks like jim's got you covered. If not, let me know. I have an extra

[choochb5]

Looks like jim's got you covered. If not, let me know. I have an extra

Jim"s the man.

Thanks guys.

[jimrobbington]

Got the money, will hopefully ship tonight or tomorrow. Will pm you when it's sent.

[jimrobbington]

So just recently, I hooked up my drain on the 034 catch can to a vacuum tube that is ziptied underneath the car so it just drains out in the center of the car between the front tires. Does anybody think this will cause any loss in power, if even slight, from losing a tiny bit of pressure from this line?

[DRAKLORE]

Idk but it can't be any worse than the filter strapped to mine..

[jimrobbington]

I mean, nothing feels wrong, but just like a hot air intake, I hate bleeding unnecessary power for little to no reason. If it's not necessarily good for the car, I will just keep draining it manually.

[jimrobbington]

Oh, Shane, BTW my other project fell through :( Back to the drawing board. They (company) wanted it back.

[DRAKLORE]

Damn, let me
Know what you come
Up
With

[Operator]

My BFI Clean Catch CC. I went this route, because I prefer the braided lines, and at the time it was one of the few that allowed you to keep your engine cover without modifying it. So far no smoking, but I've only been able to drive the car once since it's been installed (JR you da man!).

iPhone shots....

[jimrobbington]

Honestly, I was rather impressed with the quality of the kit^. Totally worth the extra $$. Only weird thing was how the bracket fits to the lid and you have to unscrew the can from underneath it. Kinda awkward.

[Hopperstien]

I just bumped the thread "strange knock from intake". Hopefully we will find out more. It seems like the valve making that sound is inside that tube and can be pulled out? It is pointless supposedly, once a catch can is installed.

Has anyone come to a conclusion about this? Did it just go away?

[Obsidian]

Been awhile since the last post and I see that most if not all the companies have updated their products since then. I am in the market for a oil catch can but really can't decide between the three I have narrowed down.

BSH

BFI

RAI

I thought I had settled on the RAI catch but since I had gone back and looked at the others i'm having second thoughts. BSH initially turned me away from it due to the bronze fittings they used to have, which they have since replaced with stainless. The BFI catch looks great but the price is nearly double the BSH and $125~ more than the RAI. Is the price really worth is?

The other thing I am wondering is which of three is actually the most efficient at doing its job? Any suggestions on this that have recently purchased and installed any of the three?

[jimrobbington]

To be honest, for the most part, they will all work the same. The biggest difference is in fit and finish, and internals of the can itself. I have the 034, and it's great. I have installed the BFI on Operator's car, and it was a good quality piece. Had a better internal can system than my 034. But really, cheapest, best looking will suffice for this application. Just go with the BSH for the best price, it will do you just fine.

[Obsidian]

To be honest, for the most part, they will all work the same. The biggest difference is in fit and finish, and internals of the can itself. I have the 034, and it's great. I have installed the BFI on Operator's car, and it was a good quality piece. Had a better internal can system than my 034. But really, cheapest, best looking will suffice for this application. Just go with the BSH for the best price, it will do you just fine.

Good to hear, 42DD seems to have a quality product for a cheap price as well.

Just one last question. I did have my PCV replaced under factory warranty about 11 months ago... Will it be beneficial to have a catch can installed now or should I just wait until the PCV fails again? Not to sure on this one so any info is great.

[rnp614]

I have a 2007....bought the RAI V2, hope it doesnt have problems in my car!

[Contained]

I've been running the RAI system for about half a year now with no complaints. I'm thinking about switching to the 42DD can, though. That thing is too pretty.

[james 408]

So i've seen a few of these setups, and inquired about them, but i'm still a little confusled.

Being an accountant, not an engineer, why would somebody who doesn't have any pcv problems after 140k miles on the same pcv, consider doing this? seems like you're spending money to add weight and complexity (not overly complex, but still a bunch of new fittings etc.), and with the frequency of draining/monitoring, it doesn't seem there'd be any tangible gains in anything, save maybe a little bit of carbon buildup, maybe.

[VroomTT]

I'm raising this thread back up as I have a genuinely new concern which I do not think has been addressed here yet.

I recently installed the 034 OCC kit on my 2006 quattro 6sp b/c I thought this was a safe route since everything I needed was included at a fair price. I stopped by a new to me vw/audi shop near my work today to introduce myself(though we've spoken a few times already) and discuss some items on the a4 I would like to have work done on. While discussing some option, he mentioned one of the most important things to do on these FSI motors is the catch can. I explained I had heard the same and already jumped on the 034 kit and popped the hood to show him. First thing he asked was "Are you sure it's supposed to be routed like this?" (Yes, I installed it correctly per 034's instructions) I explained the setup and he quickly pointed out that the setup eliminates vacuum in the valve cover. He said the intake manifold is plumbed into the oem system to create vacuum, which helps avoid blow-by and oil burning, also aids in spooling the motor. He commented that in a race setup this would be fine since you change the oil enough but in a daily driven car it's not good, which is why Audi made it this way in the first place.

He then did a simple demo for me by asking me to turn on the car. I did, and with the motor on he twisted opened the oil cap and left it sitting in place. Much to my surprise it started dancing around and wanting to pop off from pressure. He then pulled off the cap and oil was sloshing around and little slashes came out. "That shouldn't happen like that. Under vacuum this cap would be pulled down slightly and none of this oil would splash out." "Race application, sure. Daily driver, you are asking for problems with increased blow-by and oil burning."

So all that being said, I wanted to put it "out there" and see what the community thinks of this. It seems simple enough. I also notice all the kits mentioned here plug up the intake manifold and don't take this concept into account.

Genuine concern, or is there a better explanation?

[VroomTT]

Anyone have an opinion on the above?

I've spoken to a different mechanic too and he disagrees. He believes it isn't a concern. I'm running the 034 kit and wondering if it may be better off with a functioning PCV... just need a clear answer.

[Der Konig]

I'm raising this thread back up as I have a genuinely new concern which I do not think has been addressed here yet.

I recently installed the 034 OCC kit on my 2006 quattro 6sp b/c I thought this was a safe route since everything I needed was included at a fair price. I stopped by a new to me vw/audi shop near my work today to introduce myself(though we've spoken a few times already) and discuss some items on the a4 I would like to have work done on. While discussing some option, he mentioned one of the most important things to do on these FSI motors is the catch can. I explained I had heard the same and already jumped on the 034 kit and popped the hood to show him. First thing he asked was "Are you sure it's supposed to be routed like this?" (Yes, I installed it correctly per 034's instructions) I explained the setup and he quickly pointed out that the setup eliminates vacuum in the valve cover. He said the intake manifold is plumbed into the oem system to create vacuum, which helps avoid blow-by and oil burning, also aids in spooling the motor. He commented that in a race setup this would be fine since you change the oil enough but in a daily driven car it's not good, which is why Audi made it this way in the first place.

He then did a simple demo for me by asking me to turn on the car. I did, and with the motor on he twisted opened the oil cap and left it sitting in place. Much to my surprise it started dancing around and wanting to pop off from pressure. He then pulled off the cap and oil was sloshing around and little slashes came out. "That shouldn't happen like that. Under vacuum this cap would be pulled down slightly and none of this oil would splash out." "Race application, sure. Daily driver, you are asking for problems with increased blow-by and oil burning."

So all that being said, I wanted to put it "out there" and see what the community thinks of this. It seems simple enough. I also notice all the kits mentioned here plug up the intake manifold and don't take this concept into account.

Genuine concern, or is there a better explanation?

All I can say is I have been running this catch can for around 40k and haven't had an issue with it. I change every 5k miles. I thought if the oil cap had a decent amount of suction that was a failed pcv and a problem?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[VroomTT]

All I can say is I have been running this catch can for around 40k and haven't had an issue with it. I change every 5k miles. I thought if the oil cap had a decent amount of suction that was a failed pcv and a problem?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Thanks for the response. I agree that if the oil cap had an excessive amount of suction then it likely means your pcv was failing. The problem I am asking about is the exact opposite. The oil cap is dancing around like there is pressure underneath it, as opposed to vacuum. My understanding is a small amount of vacuum is a good thing(which is why the oem steup is plumbed into the mani to begin with). Too much vacuum is bad, but wouldn't too much pressure also be bad? I thought this was also the main reason behind the pcv (to not build too much pressure from the mani).

So to be clear:
- Small amounts of vacuum = Good (functioning oem pcv)?
- Too much vacuum = Bad (Busted pcv)
- Small amounts of pressure = ?
- Too much pressure = Bad (reason for oem pcv while tapped into the mani)

[xander3zero]

if you install a catch can is it recommended that the rear breather be the version with or without the check valve inside? Is this the reason that some people experience smoke at idle with a catch can setup? I am considering upgrading to a CC but I have the rear breather without the check valve inside it, so it is just a open pipe, and i obviously dont want to see any smoke at idle. I am considering either the BFI Kit or the CTS Turbo Kit. Both are on the expensive end but i like the braided hoses and they look to be good kits. I know that CTS says you cant use the engine cover with their kit, does the BFI kit allow the engine cover to be fitted? Im sorry if there are pictures in this thread that show me the answer, i am at work and a lot of pics are blocked.

[VroomTT]

if you install a catch can is it recommended that the rear breather be the version with or without the check valve inside? Is this the reason that some people experience smoke at idle with a catch can setup? I am considering upgrading to a CC but I have the rear breather without the check valve inside it, so it is just a open pipe, and i obviously dont want to see any smoke at idle. I am considering either the BFI Kit or the CTS Turbo Kit. Both are on the expensive end but i like the braided hoses and they look to be good kits. I know that CTS says you cant use the engine cover with their kit, does the BFI kit allow the engine cover to be fitted? Im sorry if there are pictures in this thread that show me the answer, i am at work and a lot of pics are blocked.

Regarding the rear breather check valve, my understanding is if you are running a common catch can, you would need to either have the one without the valve, or remove the valve. The reason being that without it, pressure in the crank case is only released during boost. Which if you know these cars, you know is not the majority of the time under normal driving conditions.

[Cantalk]

Hey, just a quick question regarding cleaning the lines. Do I flush brake cleaner through them, or use some other method?
They iced up in -30C this past winter, and it looks like it was due to the cholesterol-like deposits inside the lines.

[pimpbot]

Unfortunately carbon build up is a fact of the FSI engine, cc or no cc. This is covered extensively on other threads and in the RS4 forum more thoroughly. I can't remember if it was on AZ or another forum, but the OP did an N=1 study where he showed his valves at ~50k miles with the carbon buildup, did an open cleaning, installed a CC and then followed up with a ~30k-40K later picture of the valves. Minimal decrease in carbon build up, but helped some nonetheless, but in no way a solution for the eventual problem. IMHO is that the cc is a reliable solution to the problematic PCV as noted above by Jim. Other minor benefits might be to decrease some of the carbon buildup, but using a fuel additive, or W/M and making sure to use quality fuel in the first place is the best defense against carbon build up. Sorry for getting a little off topic, but it all relates IMO.

I know... old thread....

Can somebody explain this? I thought the 2.0t had direct injection. The fuel injector is in the combustion chamber, not behind the intake valves as with the older cars (and any non-direct injected cars), so gasoline should never see the backside of the intake valve or the get into the intake manifold... well, except for crankcase blow-by.

I mean, that is the problem. On any non DI car, the fuel (and fuel system cleaner found in most gasoline) is constantly being sprayed on the back of the intake valves, constantly washing away deposits, so they don't have the problem with carbon build-up as DI cars do.

I thought the source of the carbon was from the oil vapor in the blow-by gasses getting reintroduced in the intake manifold to be burned. Therefore, it shouldn't matter how crappy the gas is you're using... apart from the obvious running like crap, sediment or water in the fuel, not having a high enough octane rating, etc.

I was thinking of adding a catch can to my B7 2.0t Avant, but I couldn't budget a $300 kit. I was thinking of just putting a generic $25 catch can off ebay inline from the breather hose, just to trap any oil vapor or water vapor, then empty the can every oil change. From this discussion, it doesn't seem like the catch cans are terribly effective to reduce carbon build-up in the intake manifold and intake valves.

[Zactastic]

...but I couldn't budget a $300 kit. I was thinking of just putting a generic $25 catch can off ebay inline from the breather hose, just to trap any oil vapor or water vapor, then empty the can every oil change. From this discussion, it doesn't seem like the catch cans are terribly effective to reduce carbon build-up in the intake manifold and intake valves.

Anyone have an update on their CC experience? i was thinking of a simple/cheaper version because it doesn't seem like it's worth the 300$+ they go for.

[canadianA4B7]

I've found a nice plan. Using an industrial air oil separator. Shud be just as efficient if not a bit better then catch can.

[Zactastic]

I've found a nice plan. Using an industrial air oil separator. Shud be just as efficient if not a bit better then catch can.

The sarcasm is strong with this one

[canadianA4B7]

Actually I'm telling the truth, aos shud remove more contamination from the air then a catch can, being the filter inside the unit (similar to a baffled catch can). Made by Parker. Valve cover and crankcase gasses come together with 2 x 3/4" line to a single 1" line. This 1" has the aos then is routed directly to the tip pipe. I may try to connect a vaccum gauge on this line right at the tip pipe. Shud be pulling Vaccum all the time with this hook up. I also have a check valve in the lower crank case hose shud open under high cases of pressure like a pcv valve wud normally.

And if I find oil reaching the tip pipe I can just add a 2nd can in series with the 1st unit. Simplified setup. W option to improve it. Only down side is they weight a bit more then aluminum catch can.

So the units worth about $110, and then 1" silicone hose to go from the Tee through aos to tip pipe.

I have 2 units available. Will sell a can for $$120 shipped. Ull also need some either 3/4" npt-3/4" nipple, or 3/4" npt to 1" nipple (size wise these seem to be best sourced in brass, or I will custom make my own using stainless 316 parts I scavenge)

[Zactastic]

got any pictures of a link? sounds promising. cheers man

[canadianA4B7]

Parker 07f42AC. That's the part number, I picked up 3/4" npt to 1" nipples. This way there is no restriction inside the fittings. They are nice units. Bit heavier then I wud like but if it cleans all the oil oil I'm fine with the weight. May mount mine passengers side front area near filter box as my TIP pipe will likely be under the headlight.


http://www.parker.com/Literature/Lit...US_06F-07F.pdf

Yes I'm aware the article states "water removal" and yes these are designed to filter water and liquid contamination. We use them in industry an they are usually filtering water/oil. There is a drain on the bottom which I'm going to fit a small valve and some hose do it will be drained with oil changes.

[TagEldinAhmed]

Another thread revival here..
Just installed the 034 Motorsport Billet Catch Can today, basically their updated Stage 2 CC. Followed the instructions step by step, which is the same guide as the Stage 2 setup, even though the can and bracket are now different.
After running into some initial problems during installation, such as the bottom bracket of the CC not having a spot to mount to, not being able to run the braided lines through the same openings/locations as their instructions since the AN fittings couldn't fit through the tiny openings by the hard-lines at the back of the engine and therefore be able to fit under the engine cover as well, everything was finally decent enough to be considered done.. then I started the car. A HUGE vacuum leak caused the engine to die almost instantly.
The leak seems to be happening between the valve cover breather adapter and the valve cover itself, my guess being that it's due to the top left corner of the adapter not sitting completely flush with the valve cover, since there's no screw to apply pressure there.
Anyone have a similar experience, recommendation, or insight on what I could be doing wrong? All help is appreciated, thank you!

Edit: After installing a new crankcase vent valve seal, I found my dumb mistake.. Upon installing the manifold plug, I didn't realize that it was hollow and missing the NPT plug. Now that that has been threaded in, it's all good and running fine!

[sketchmedic]

CAA579B6-9840-41A4-856A-63C670078E2F.jpeg

- Does anyone have a setup using this ^^ ?

- I have cheap billet aluminum Amazon can with 5/8 nbt that has the dual filtering system + dipstick. But I’d like to put it inline with the PCV system instead of deleting. I figure the system serves a purpose and why not just add my can to the existing system. Does anyone have any DIYs doing any catch cans inline PCV for the B7, I know ecs tuning has the whole adapter for the B8s but again that more cash to spend.

- Now this Mann and Hummel CC I see that has a replaceable filter I figure could be easily hooked in with the PCV/intake side; attaching it down to the Oil filter housing.
And than add my billet can onto the turbo side to catch even more blow by and just bracket it to the inside wall through the grommet hole just to the left corner of the valve cover.

[mjs454]

Perhaps dumb question... the 034 CC seems to have a drain line to the oil pan. Does this mean you don't have to check it and drain it manually (or maybe just once per year?)?

If this is true, and the lines don't have any low points, seems like the freeze risk is minimal?