B8 A4 intercooler comparison thread

[Smellie]

I just bought it straight from the site he used to price match. Probably won't install it until winter's over though, no point really.

Could you link that site? I'm trying to purchase it now, put it in march or so.

[lettuce]

Maybe i missed it somehere in your install but can you use stock hoses fort he TR8 IC? Stock is 2.5 inches correct?

And good info on your thread, nice build!

Actually the stock hoses are 2.25" and the Treadstone inlet and outlet are 2.5", so I used my stock hoses and connected them to the intercooler via silicone 2.25" to 2.5" 45 degree elbows with 2.25" steel male to male joiner pieces as you can see here:



Here are the parts I ordered:

2x: https://www.frozenboost.com/turbo-pi...9715197f401122

2x: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00

2x: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00

1x: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00

1x: http://www.treadstoneperformance.com....phtml?p=67744

[lettuce]

Could you link that site? I'm trying to purchase it now, put it in march or so.

http://www.vr-speed.com/snow-perform...olkswagen.html

And if you want to install it after the throttle body you'll need the Integrated Engineering TB spacer (PN IEBAVC14) and the Snow solenoid upgrade (PN 40060). If you want to install a dual nozzle setup you'll also need the T junction for the line and probably some way to mount the nozzle in your piping.

[shaunm82]

http://www.vr-speed.com/snow-perform...olkswagen.html

And if you want to install it after the throttle body you'll need the Integrated Engineering TB spacer (PN IEBAVC14) and the Snow solenoid upgrade (PN 40060). If you want to install a dual nozzle setup you'll also need the T junction for the line and probably some way to mount the nozzle in your piping.

If you are going meth and even considering dual nozzle, I'd recommend the kit from USRT. Includes everything you mentioned and them some, for much cheaper than buying individually.

[zokissima]

Actually the stock hoses are 2.25" and the Treadstone inlet and outlet are 2.5", so I used my stock hoses and connected them to the intercooler via silicone 2.25" to 2.5" 45 degree elbows with 2.25" steel male to male joiner pieces as you can see here:



Here are the parts I ordered:

2x: https://www.frozenboost.com/turbo-pi...9715197f401122

2x: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00

2x: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00

1x: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00

1x: http://www.treadstoneperformance.com....phtml?p=67744

Thank you for this kind sir!

[lettuce]

If you are going meth and even considering dual nozzle, I'd recommend the kit from USRT. Includes everything you mentioned and them some, for much cheaper than buying individually.

https://youtu.be/gqQ99s4Ywnw

[shaunm82]

https://youtu.be/gqQ99s4Ywnw

lmao, sorry man. I did the same exact thing though. Bought the TB plate, and solenoid, received it all.. then found that dual nozzle package that includes those items, plus everything else needed to go dual setup for $20 more.

[Lambda13]

If you are going meth and even considering dual nozzle, I'd recommend the kit from USRT. Includes everything you mentioned and them some, for much cheaper than buying individually.

Toss up a link in case I get complacent with my power output?

[shaunm82]

Toss up a link in case I get complacent with my power output?

Here you go sir:

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php...oducts_id=1629

Includes everything pretty much. TB plate, upgraded solenoid, tee, nozzle holder, some extra hose and you can choose which bung you need weld on on sandwich for rubber/silicone hoses

[Lambda13]

Here you go sir:

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php...oducts_id=1629

Includes everything pretty much. TB plate, upgraded solenoid, tee, nozzle holder, some extra hose and you can choose which bung you need weld on on sandwich for rubber/silicone hoses

One of these days I'm going to do some more in depth W/M research so I can figure out what all that means and does. I have no idea what the different bung sizes can mean, other than obviously more spray vs less spray...

But as a starter, that dual spray kit is supposed to go in conjunction with a w/m kit that is already in place?

So for example:

This: http://www.vr-speed.com/snow-perform...olkswagen.html

Plus: http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php...oducts_id=1629

??

[blbroo]

One of these days I'm going to do some more in depth W/M research so I can figure out what all that means and does. I have no idea what the different bung sizes can mean, other than obviously more spray vs less spray...

But as a starter, that dual spray kit is supposed to go in conjunction with a w/m kit that is already in place?

So for example:

This: http://www.vr-speed.com/snow-perform...olkswagen.html

Plus: http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php...oducts_id=1629

??

Snow Performance has a great FAQ on their website. Basically, W/M lowers intake temps and increases octane. Lower IAT = more HP. Lower IAT and higher octane allow for increased timing = more hp.

Some of the W/M evaporates in the boost pipes, some gets farther and steam cleans the valves before increasing octane.

Too much spray results in quench, which lowers octane and reduces power. I'm running one 375 nozzle that is hooked up just after the intercooler exit. Feels the same as running a 175 after the intercooler and a 100 after the throttle body.

But, WTF do I know. I didn't really even understand how a turbo worked until about 12 months ago.

[shaunm82]

But as a starter, that dual spray kit is supposed to go in conjunction with a w/m kit that is already in place?

So for example:

This: http://www.vr-speed.com/snow-perform...olkswagen.html

Plus: http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php...oducts_id=1629

??

Yup, you are correct. Those two items basically go hand in hand.

I'm running what Brian mentioned, the 175ml after the ic, and the 100ml after the TB. They also have a guide as to which nozzles you can or should be running, seems the displacement and power rating of the car is also a factor in which nozzle size you run.

[Lambda13]

Yup, you are correct. Those two items basically go hand in hand.

I'm running what Brian mentioned, the 175ml after the ic, and the 100ml after the TB. They also have a guide as to which nozzles you can or should be running, seems the displacement and power rating of the car is also a factor in which nozzle size you run.

Based on your signature sounds like we'd be looking at similar setups. What trans you have?

[shaunm82]

Based on your signature sounds like we'd be looking at similar setups. What trans you have?

I'm 8AT, I'm pretty content right now. Maybe not in 3-4 months once that EFR drops, and we see some used setups go up in the classifieds though lol.

Also be interesting to see how well the meth cools our cars in the warmer weather.

[Lambda13]

I'm 8AT, I'm pretty content right now. Maybe not in 3-4 months once that EFR drops, and we see some used setups go up in the classifieds though lol.

Also be interesting to see how well the meth cools our cars in the warmer weather.

Yea definitely. I am starting a slow process of researching how to beef up my 6 speed trip.

[blbroo]

I'm checking to confirm with SNOW, but I am building a theory that this FMIC works so good, that it takes away some of the W/M ability. My IATs were 52-57F today when cruising hard on the highway and would drop into the mid to high 40's when meth sprayed in. Ambient temp is 42. I'm not sure what temp / pressure combination is needed for water vapor to evaporate and cool the air charge, but assume it is much more than 50.

I can run the 100 octane file with no spray and have no misfires or detonation. Will see what they say, but I might turn the spray way back and put a few bottles of heet in to reduce the water %.

[Dub_prime]

I'm checking to confirm with SNOW, but I am building a theory that this FMIC works so good, that it takes away some of the W/M ability. My IATs were 52-57F today when cruising hard on the highway and would drop into the mid to high 40's when meth sprayed in. Ambient temp is 42. I'm not sure what temp / pressure combination is needed for water vapor to evaporate and cool the air charge, but assume it is much more than 50.

I can run the 100 octane file with no spray and have no misfires or detonation. Will see what they say, but I might turn the spray way back and put a few bottles of heet in to reduce the water %.

You are going to make me buy the intercooler aren't you... Wish the stupid insurance company would settle already so I can get back on the road.

[Lambda13]

My TR11, better view than my original.

[Townending]

My TR11, better view than my original.

Did your city turn up your streetlights to the "Noon on a sunny day" setting? Those are bright!


On a related note, did you guys notice any increase in turbo lag with the TR11? I'm liking the price, but my biggest concern is the time it takes to build pressure in that massive thing.

[Lambda13]

Did your city turn up your streetlights to the "Noon on a sunny day" setting? Those are bright!


On a related note, did you guys notice any increase in turbo lag with the TR11? I'm liking the price, but my biggest concern is the time it takes to build pressure in that massive thing.

It actually doesn't have much pressure loss which is why I went with it. I haven't seen any negative effects. It was in preparation of a new turbo :)

I think its primarily glare, but yea those seem wicked bright lol

[Townending]

Oooohhh, I like the size of the TR8.

[dscline]

I'm checking to confirm with SNOW, but I am building a theory that this FMIC works so good, that it takes away some of the W/M ability. My IATs were 52-57F today when cruising hard on the highway and would drop into the mid to high 40's when meth sprayed in. Ambient temp is 42. I'm not sure what temp / pressure combination is needed for water vapor to evaporate and cool the air charge, but assume it is much more than 50.

No, a DRY bulb temperature below 50 is not going to prevent cooling via evaporation, but if the dry bulb temperature is 50, and the web bulb temp is 49, THAT will absolutely limit your cooling potential. Once the air hits 100% RH, you can't cool it any more with evaporation (though the addition of alcohol complicates matters somewhat). It is true though that a more efficient intercooler can reduce the potential cooling from spraying. If we assume a worst case condition of 100% RH (raining out), then air gets heated up through the turbo, then cooled back down to some extent via the intercooler, even with the best intercooler the air is still going to be somewhat warmer than it was before the turbo. If it's warmer, then the air is no longer @ 100% humidity (at least before your spray head), so there is potential for cooling. The coolest you'll be able to get the air via evaporation (again, ignoring effects of alcohol) is back down to the temp before the turbo (and again, for the condition where it was at 100% RH at that point). That remains the same whether you have a great intercooler, or a shitty one. But even in this worst case scenario, the high capacity intercooler isn't a complete waste: you can get the same final temp with less spray (and of course, if you spray more than you need to get to 100%, there is more cooling potential inside the combustion chamber).

[zcspec]

Lettuce, Thanks for posting the items needed for the Treadstone upgrade. To others who have installed it, how necessary is it to buy the "better" 2.25" clamps? I have purchased everything else except those. Would the OEM 2.25" work?

[blbroo]

Lettuce, Thanks for posting the items needed for the Treadstone upgrade. To others who have installed it, how necessary is it to buy the "better" 2.25" clamps? I have purchased everything else except those. Would the OEM 2.25" work?

They are not that expensive and have much better holding power. I've heard of hoses coming loose with the stock clamps, but not with the T style. Plus, the stock ones might not be big enough for the 2.5" outlet

[shaunm82]

Lettuce, Thanks for posting the items needed for the Treadstone upgrade. To others who have installed it, how necessary is it to buy the "better" 2.25" clamps? I have purchased everything else except those. Would the OEM 2.25" work?

Not 100% needed. I ran with the oem ones for a little while. They never blew off or anything. I eventually moved on to T-Bolts, but I'd say you don't 'need' to get them.

[blbroo]

Not 100% needed. I ran with the oem ones for a little while. They never blew off or anything. I eventually moved on to T-Bolts, but I'd say you don't 'need' to get them.

That is a good point. If you use them, and they don't blow off, you're good. If they blow off, upgrade.

[lettuce]

Lettuce, Thanks for posting the items needed for the Treadstone upgrade. To others who have installed it, how necessary is it to buy the "better" 2.25" clamps? I have purchased everything else except those. Would the OEM 2.25" work?

Like they said, you could possibly get away with using your stock clamps, but they're cheap enough that I'd just get the better ones. You're already saving a bunch of money with this FMIC, I wouldn't skimp out on the little stuff. If you blow a hose far from home and don't have tools and a replacement handy you'll be kicking yourself.

[zcspec]

Very true...it's just a few more dollars for the 2.25" and my OCD would eventually force me to buy them to match the higher quality 2.5" ones I already bought. Thanks for the input guys! I'll be ordering the 2.25" clamps and should finally have the TR8 installed sometime in Feb.

Aside note...I found a couple of DIYs for removing the bumper but nothing extremely elaborate. Mind giving me feedback/insight/wisdom when it comes to removing the AR's front bumper? I've personally watched 2 A3s being removed and it did not seem fun at all.

[Lambda13]

Very true...it's just a few more dollars for the 2.25" and my OCD would eventually force me to buy them to match the higher quality 2.5" ones I already bought. Thanks for the input guys! I'll be ordering the 2.25" clamps and should finally have the TR8 installed sometime in Feb.

Aside note...I found a couple of DIYs for removing the bumper but nothing extremely elaborate. Mind giving me feedback/insight/wisdom when it comes to removing the AR's front bumper? I've personally watched 2 A3s being removed and it did not seem fun at all.

Shoulda gone TR11... Go big or go home!

[lettuce]

Shoulda gone TR11... Go big or go home!

Why stop at TR11?

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...rcooler+1300HP

Go big or go home.

Very true...it's just a few more dollars for the 2.25" and my OCD would eventually force me to buy them to match the higher quality 2.5" ones I already bought. Thanks for the input guys! I'll be ordering the 2.25" clamps and should finally have the TR8 installed sometime in Feb.

Aside note...I found a couple of DIYs for removing the bumper but nothing extremely elaborate. Mind giving me feedback/insight/wisdom when it comes to removing the AR's front bumper? I've personally watched 2 A3s being removed and it did not seem fun at all.

The diy I used the first time I did it was part of the RS4 grille installation that's in the diy sticky. It's really no big deal at all, takes maybe 30 mins the first time you do it and 15 minutes every time after that. It's just a couple bolts and wiring clips.

[zokissima]

For the TR8, I'd suggest that you just go with the OEM 3.0TDI intercooler, since it's basically mounted right in the OEM location.

TR11 is a good bet. I've got the 3.0TDI intercooler, but will probably upgrade to the TR11.

[blbroo]

For the TR8, I'd suggest that you just go with the OEM 3.0TDI intercooler, since it's basically mounted right in the OEM location.

TR11 is a good bet. I've got the 3.0TDI intercooler, but will probably upgrade to the TR11.

The TR8 is an upgrade from the 3.0. I think lettuce moved from the TDI FMIC.


Signature overridden by community admin.

[Lambda13]

For the TR8, I'd suggest that you just go with the OEM 3.0TDI intercooler, since it's basically mounted right in the OEM location.

TR11 is a good bet. I've got the 3.0TDI intercooler, but will probably upgrade to the TR11.

I did some research and found that the TR11 has the same performance points as the TR8 but it was larger. Larger = Moar better.

[lettuce]

For the TR8, I'd suggest that you just go with the OEM 3.0TDI intercooler, since it's basically mounted right in the OEM location.

TR11 is a good bet. I've got the 3.0TDI intercooler, but will probably upgrade to the TR11.

What makes you say that? The TR8 was a huge upgrade over the 3.0 IC for me. Like a night and day difference. The 3.0 was good for stage 2 but was heat soaking bad with the F23L. I haven't been able to heat up the TR8 at all, and believe me I've tried.

The TR11 is honestly unnecessary for our applications. The TR8 is rated to 500hp and the TR11 to 560hp. If anyone here is in need of that little bit of extra power handling please let me know what you're running cause I want some of that.

[blbroo]

What makes you say that? The TR8 was a huge upgrade over the 3.0 IC for me. Like a night and day difference. The 3.0 was good for stage 2 but was heat soaking bad with the F23L. I haven't been able to heat up the TR8 at all, and believe me I've tried.

The TR11 is honestly unnecessary for our applications. The TR8 is rated to 500hp and the TR11 to 560hp. If anyone here is in need of that little bit of extra power handling please let me know what you're running cause I want some of that.

There really can't be a better functioning intercooler for our cars than the TR8. Treadstone should be sponsoring Lettuce and I for pioneering this path.

[lettuce]

There really can't be a better functioning intercooler for our cars than the TR8. Treadstone should be sponsoring Lettuce and I for pioneering this path.

Seriously. Intercoolers are like condoms, and getting a TR11 for our cars is like getting a box of magnum XLs for a regular-sized dick.

[Lambda13]

Seriously. Intercoolers are like condoms, and getting a TR11 for our cars is like getting a box of magnum XLs for a regular-sized dick.

Except that using a Magnum condom has negative side effects. Like having to go fishing and then making them take the fast way down a flight of stairs. The TR11 fit perfectly under the crash bar and took minimum modifications or maneuvering to make it fit.

[asfastas63]

Any thoughts on the TR8C (center Inlet/Outet) vs the TR8? For some reason it's $30 cheaper than the TR8. Think the hose setup you guys suggested would still work for it?

[blbroo]

Any thoughts on the TR8C (center Inlet/Outet) vs the TR8? For some reason it's $30 cheaper than the TR8. Think the hose setup you guys suggested would still work for it?

I bet it would. Lambda13 is running the TR11 under the crash bar with the same hose setup that I have with a TR8 mounted behind the crash bar, just barely overlapping it.

[asfastas63]

I bet it would. Lambda13 is running the TR11 under the crash bar with the same hose setup that I have with a TR8 mounted behind the crash bar, just barely overlapping it.

Well I just snagged a brand new one on ebay for $150 shipped, so it looks like I'll be giving it a shot! You guys are bad for my credit card.