Engine Strengthening by a4darkness

[boy412]

Curious why you chose the B5 S4 MM's? I would think since they were made for a heavier engine that they wouldn't be as suitable as the OE ones? Just curious to hear your logic on that one...

:)

[a4darkness]

Curious why you chose the B5 S4 MM's? I would think since they were made for a heavier engine that they wouldn't be as suitable as the OE ones? Just curious to hear your logic on that one...
:)

Perfectly legit question. I figured that a heavier engine would need a more durable mount. Again, while I've got no evidence to support the theory, it seemed logical then that the V6 mount would be a tad more robust than the 1.8T's. And since the RS4 mounts are very commonly used as well, and have a completely solid design, this also lead me to believe there could be an improvement over stock 1.8T mounts with the B5 S4's. Seems that with the increase in weight / HP the mounts become more durable. It's just a theory but seems like something the Audi engineers would do.

Next was price. You really can't beat $40 - $50 each for OEM MMs. That's a steal. And I've needed to take care of this forever so at that price point, it was a no brainer. So, even if these are exactly the same as the standard B6 A4 mounts, they're still around $200 cheaper.

Also a factor were the reviews and comments... everyone that I've found who'd using them has had no issues and been very pleased with the result (the most significant being Tgr_Clw, I fully trust his opinion). And that's about it.

[iamshayan]

how do you strengthen against this?

i've already changed my injector o rings nd its happening worse

[a4darkness]

Something I've been meaning to tackle as well.

Old Guy has suggested the Autozone Sorenson O Ring Kit (800-9212) which is a universal kit and fits our injectors just fine.

However it appears that your issue might be the injector seats not just the o-rings. However, I've read that some blow-by is indeed normal. Supposedly, there was a TSB about it but I've not seen it myself. Check this thread for details here:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...look-like-this

[Ricke166]

just curious a4darkness do you have any pics of the finished product of all the new valves/tubes etc.. just curious to how much was changed, im still waiting on tubes to come in!

[a4darkness]

I'd say 95% of what's been done has been posted in this thread. But, I'm gonna pull her in and start on the coilovers today, so when I'm taking a break from wrassling with the components I'll snap some detailed shots of the engine bay. Anything in particular you're looking for?

[Ricke166]

I'd say 95% of what's been done has been posted in this thread. But, I'm gonna pull her in and start on the coilovers today, so when I'm taking a break from wrassling with the components I'll snap some detailed shots of the engine bay. Anything in particular you're looking for?

i guess its a bit for me to visualize what tubes i am exactly replacing with the new silicon ones, but i think it probably because just lack of reading (been a little busy lately)! so ill get on it haha but thanks anyways! youve been a great help

[a4darkness]

That made no sense. 95% of what I've shot has been posted. But yeah, just scroll thru the thread and check out the pics. That'll be an easy start. If you need details of something in particular, just LMK and I can shoot it. No big deal.

[iamshayan]

I'd say 95% of what's been done has been posted in this thread. But, I'm gonna pull her in and start on the coilovers today, so when I'm taking a break from wrassling with the components I'll snap some detailed shots of the engine bay. Anything in particular you're looking for?

crossin my fingers that your upper control arm bolts arnt seized like mine.

[a4darkness]

crossin my fingers that your upper control arm bolts arnt seized like mine.

Negative, they're pretty clean. This car hasn't seen much foul weather outside of hard rain and some freezing temps here and there but nothing serious.

Left side tower is out, now I'm just trying to figure out the best way to get the Vogtlands dialed and back in. Never done a full install by myself so I'm kinda takin it slow. That and taking lots of notes + pics, will break out a separate DIY of sorts when I'm finished.



So far so good. < knocks on wood >

[someguy1.8t]

Thanks for all the info. This will all come in handy. Quick question. That is the usp front lower bumper with stock A4 sideskirts correct? i cant tell if those are all gray or they match your paint from the picture. Did you do the usp lower bumper mod?

[a4darkness]

Thanks for all the info. This will all come in handy. Quick question. That is the usp front lower bumper with stock A4 sideskirts correct? i cant tell if those are all gray or they match your paint from the picture. Did you do the usp lower bumper mod?

Everything you need to know... right here. ;-)

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...d-lowers-FTMFW

[someguy1.8t]

Thanks for the link. I definitely got to do this.

[a4darkness]

Akronnnnnnnn is having some issues with his car starting and immediately shutting down.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ng-with-my-car

It sounds dead on to the symptoms I experienced when I lost a FMIC hose... basically a big arse boost leak. Car will start, if you keep giving it gas it'll sorta stay running but will eventually die. I also received a battery light which was extra confusing. Fortunately it was the connection right at the FMIC, in the front on the pass side so it was easy to locate. But that's not always the case. So then, here's some great places to look.

First a labeled image of the plain old stock longitudinal 1.8T. Notice on the left hand side, the 'Air Inlet From Air Box' pipe? That's the Turbo Inlet Pipe or TIP. Yeah, 99% of you know this... but just in case. That's our starting point.




Here's what it looks like with the front end removed. Probably makes a bit more sense once you've seen the labeled illustration.




Above, the ribbed TIP hose runs from the MAF down to the turbo, hence the name (turbo inlet pipe). The connections at both the MAF and turbo are common points where leaks can occur... more so at the MAF. At the MAF, the TIP is often removed for better access to things, to run a leak test or simply because the airbox moves around. From the TIP, at the turbo connection, there's a secondary outlet that runs down to the diverter valve. There's another potential trouble spot.

Overall, hoses come loose in this general area all the time! Always want to make sure those are clamped down nice and tight... especially the small vac hose running into the DV. More on that in a moment.

Here's a pic from the top down of the TIP (now replaced with a silver ER version). This attaches to the MAF. The plug at the top of the MAF is the connection for the sensor. (ignore the corked off hose, was running a boost leak test)



And here's a pic from the same angle with the TIP removed. See the black waffle patterned circle? That's the MAF. Air passes through it and into the TIP which goes into the turbo. If you're feeling like an assclown right now cause you didn't know this, don't. I didn't know what it was for an embarrassingly long amount of time myself. So if you ever hear about someone running a 3" or VR6 MAF, they've subbed in a larger MAF in order to move more air into the turbo. Neat-o.

Also, if you look very closely, you can see my overwhelmingly insignificantly tiny K03 turbo. Shut it, I know it's small... but it's all in how you use it. Yeah, right. Further below that, is the DV and corresponding hoses. We'll move to those next.


(click on the pic to blow it up, makes it easier to see everything)



Front end is removed again, and here's the DV and hoses. From the top, see the silver ER TIP going into the turbo, and the small secondary hose running out and to the DV?




Also on a side note, right side of the image... the square silver box with the rings stamped in it (zoom in). This is the Helmholtz resonator aka The Cow Bell. WTF is that?

"The purpose of the part, is involved with the acoustical tuning of the intake system, to prevent strange/loud noises that can occur in certain conditions. It's technical name is a "Helmholtz resonator'. The chamber acts as a damper for the sound frequencies that can become resonent resulting in intake system noise. Because you are changing the acoustical properties of the intake system with the FMIC, it can be removed, as it will no longer be useful for the unknown resonent frequencies that the FMIC addition will have. " - diagnosticator

Good rule of thumb, if you don't have a FMIC, keep it or you'll get the coke bottle noise. If you do install one, remove it. When I put my FMIC in, I kept it and certainly felt some lag. It was difficult for the little K03 to fill up all that space. Once I removed it, some of the lag subsided. Needed a throttle body reset via VAG as well.

Anyway, here's another view of the same stuff (Cow Bell removed) as if you were lying underneath the engine, feet going out to towards the front and your head is under the turbo.



The Cow Bell would normally fill that gap on the left side. But instead, I've removed it and the corresponding hoses and routed air directly to the DV.

So, to conclude this should give you some great points of reference for hunting down annoying boost leaks. I need to perform a legit boost leak test myself, hopefully I can get that taken care of sooner than later.

[Saturnine]

Annnnnd this isnt a sticky because... ?

[vhstejskal]

Annnnnd this isnt a sticky because... ?

^2

This should be A4 B6 101 for anyone looking to do engine MOD's; not talking about complete overhaul but a great way to make sure you have a good base to work from. Great Thread!!!

[a4darkness]

Stoked you guys are finding it useful. ;-)

[boy412]

Annnnnd this isnt a sticky because... ?

∧3

Good rule of thumb, if you don't have a FMIC, keep it or you'll get the coke bottle noise.

Umm...what's the "coke bottle noise"? I wonder if having it in place with DSMIC's is appropriate...

[a4darkness]

Umm...what's the "coke bottle noise"? I wonder if having it in place with DSMIC's is appropriate...

Actually, you're already in the right ball park.

Our cars were designed with a DSMIC setup but seemed to have lost it for the US market (and elsewhere?). Point being, there were supposed to be dual intercoolers and without the pass side the car will sometimes make this annoying sound not unlike blowing air across the top of a bottle. That and the lack o boost storage was also a factor. So, the reservoir was created and used to both eliminate the sound and recapture the volume of the pass side OEM SMIC. But a Euro spec version with the DSMIC's will not have a Cow Bell. We really got the shaft on that one.

[n7plus1]

i got rid of that shit.

[a4darkness]

Nate needs no cow bell.

[n7plus1]

oh hell naw! fmic here so i got rid of it. weight savings ftw.

[a4darkness]

TROOF

[pablowest]

Engine Shop

Curious why you chose the B5 S4 used engines MM's? I would think since they were made for a heavier engine that they wouldn't be as suitable as the OE ones? Just curious to hear your logic on that one...

:)

B5 S4 MM's has a good quality that is why it is the preference of individuals though it is heavy it has a good run. :D

[boy412]

But a Euro spec version with the DSMIC's will not have a Cow Bell.

Interesting. Do you know this for a fact? I'm running the "Euro" DSMIC kit...and I can't recall if the install involved removing that part or not. Too many damn boxes of parts in my garage.

:)

[a4darkness]

Ya know, for a very long time I have always been under the impression that a Euro Spec B6 A4 that comes from the factory w/a DSMIC, does not include the resonator. If that's not the case, or not always the case, then I'll stand corrected. I don't have an ETKA of a Euro Spec A4 (was curious, so I checked). Mine does not provide this data. But this one has been around for a while...



So we'll call it fact-pending, but I'm not claiming to be an expert... just an enthusiast.

And if you followed this install, it should have been removed.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...cooler-Install

However, if you eliminated the SAI completely (which seems plausible since you're running MTM and likely know more than a few things about this engine) and didn't relocate it then for some reason you might still have it. I can't see quite far enough into you engine bay or garage boxes to verify, Mount Rainier seems to be blocking my view. ;-) The only other detailed pics of a DSMIC install I can recall were Steph's on his Avant but those don't show the area in which the resonator resides.

[boy412]

I'll see what I can do about removing that damn mountain. It would be great if you could see into my engine bay from your end! Going to start replacing vac lines, valves, and other hoses as soon as the parts get here (GAP should be giving you kickbacks...I can't be the only person who's ordered every part you listed...and then some).

:)

I kept the SAI stuff...its just been re-located (like in the DIY you referenced above). That was a long time ago...but now that I re-read that I can remember removing the boost reservoir.

[a4darkness]

GAP should be giving you kickbacks

HA, that's some funny ish.

Glad you kept the SAI stuff. It's popular to remove it but I really can't get down with it. Just seems like it makes more sense to keep it intact. But that's just my take.

Best of luck getting everything swapped and whatnot. Heat gun is your friend if you can't get stuff loose. Always forget to mention that. Hell, or just cutting stuff. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

[Log1c]

Awesome, this is fantastic. I probably have a boost leak and I couldn't find anything that was a complete layout of the vacuum system. Now I can replace that whole system with hopefully more reliable parts.

a4darkness, from scouring the thread, I expected to see more red hose in your pictures. Did you reuse some old hose? Or is there just less than I thought? Also, do you have a picture of the whole engine bay regarding what you replaced? (Rather than the close up shots?)

Also I saw quite a few links to vagcat/ETKA, is that site down for anyone else? Or has it been down for a while and I'm just too new to have noticed?

Thanks!

[Casius]

Actually, you're already in the right ball park.

Our cars were designed with a DSMIC setup but seemed to have lost it for the US market (and elsewhere?). Point being, there were supposed to be dual intercoolers and without the pass side the car will sometimes make this annoying sound not unlike blowing air across the top of a bottle. That and the lack o boost storage was also a factor. So, the reservoir was created and used to both eliminate the sound and recapture the volume of the pass side OEM SMIC. But a Euro spec version with the DSMIC's will not have a Cow Bell. We really got the shaft on that one.

They lost the second SMIC because for whatever reason they also lost something like 30hp when they came here. In EU you can get a 190hp 1.8T from the factory. I wonder if it has anything to do with the gas here or just a simple fact that it costs too much to have multiple engine models shipped over etc. The Europeans know and love their cars.

That second SMIC is hella expensive unfortunately, mainly cause pretty well the only place you can get it is at the dealer

This is a sweet thread man, thanks for doing it.

[alfalfa164]

So I finally tackled the job of replacing all the check valves/vacuum hoses, crank case ventilation hoses, and camchain tensioner and valve cover gaskets on my 2002 B6. This has been an awesome thread, and I wanted to contribute if I could. The 2002 model year (and I think some '03s - I can't recall what the VIN split was) have differences in the crank case ventilation system and the vacuum system. So my shopping list was a bit different compared to the one in the first post.

One major difference was that I did not need to purchase the WTF valves (06A133528D), which saved me around $65. There were also a few OEM vacuum hoses that weren't needed.

Below is the parts list I used, along with diagrams to help identify them.

Diagrams:








Parts list for 2002 model year:

06A103213F - Breather elbow hose - Qty: 1 - Purchased from Amazon - Item 2 on diagram 1
06A103247 - Crankcase 3-way valve housing - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 5 on diagram 1
N90467301 - Breather elbow seal (o-ring) - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 3 on diagram 1
037121142A - Breather elbow retaining clip - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 4 on diagram 1
035103245A - Breather Valve - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 6 on diagram 1
06B103221P - Breather Hose - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 13 on diagram 1
058103493A - Breather Hose - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 15 on diagram 1

058133753D - Suction Pump - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 19 on diagram 2
058133784AF - OEM Vacuum Hose - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 21 on diagram 2
07C133529A - Breather Check Valve - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 22 on diagram 2
058133394D - OEM Vacuum Elbow Hose - Qty: 2 - Purchased from GAP - Items 23 and 58 on diagram 2
8E0133784B - OEM Angled Vacuum Hose - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 55 on diagram 2

058133785B - Air Pump Hose - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 12 on diagram 3
06B133784R - Breather Hose - Qty: 1 - Purchased from GAP - Item 18 on diagram 3

There were a few hoses I did not purchase, as they were replaced not long ago, but I would recommend getting if they hadn't been replaced.
06B133783BC - 90 Degree Breather Hose - Qty: 1 - Item 20 on diagram 2
06B133784AP - Angled Hose - Qty: 1 - Item 38 on diagram 2
058103221E - S-Shape Breather Hose - Qty: 1 - Item 10 on diagram 1.

Elsewhere, I used generic vacuum hoses from Napa Autoparts (can't recall the ID at the moment) and 10 ft of 4mm ID silicone vacuum hose purchased from boostcontroller.com.

The checkvalves used were the same generics from US Plastic as listed in the first post: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...2234&catid=489

When replacing the crank case ventilation hoses, I also cleaned out the metal ventilation tubes with kerosene/lamp oil and a pipe cleaner. After all was said and done, I was amazed at the difference. Smooth idle and acceleration, no more check engine light, no more burning oil smell in the cabin! I think I'm finally ready for stage 1 or the diode mod.

[Casius]

Crap, there's a split? Damn it haha, I want to buy all my valves but now I have to check. I have an 03, and it came with the old style wipers and everything so it might be just like yours. So you didn't even have the WTF valves on yours?

[alfalfa164]

That's right; there were no WTF valves on my B6. The diagram below (on the left) is from the later VINs, with the WTF valve (25, circled in red). Diagram 1 on the right (from my post above) is for the earlier VINs, w/out the WTF valves.



You should be able to match one of these diagrams to what's under your hood. The items connected to hose 13 are a good way of distinguishing between the two variants (at least for me).

You can also email Genuine Audi Parts and ask them to check the WTF valve (06A133528D) against your VIN. They'll let you know if it belongs on your car or not.

[Casius]

From your diagram it doesn't look like you have a pancake valve, I most certainly do have one.

This is going to be great :)

[Outerfroggy1]

how do you strengthen against this?

i've already changed my injector o rings nd its happening worse

Find some of this, coat your o-rings and re-install them. I can almost guarantee it will stop blow-by such as that. It doesn't harden and wont harm your engine if ingested:

[a4darkness]

This is a bit out of context but I've had a few ppl just ask me about it of late so I'm gonna repost this here.
Nutshell, there are some hoses missing from the 03-05 crankcase vent system illustration in ETKA for the A4. However, the Passat's diagram seems to have them (03-05 are the same). Additionally, this matches exactly with what's in my engine bay. If you're scratching your head about a missing hose or something, perhaps this will help.

[tchuck]

Fantastic thread man. Great job!

[a4darkness]

a4darkness, from scouring the thread, I expected to see more red hose in your pictures. Did you reuse some old hose? Or is there just less than I thought? Also, do you have a picture of the whole engine bay regarding what you replaced? (Rather than the close up shots?)
Also I saw quite a few links to vagcat/ETKA, is that site down for anyone else? Or has it been down for a while and I'm just too new to have noticed?
Thanks!

There's actually a lot less hose than you'd think. And there's really not a way to capture all of them solo, hence the individual pics. But, I can always add this which is by far the best example if you will...



But if you're looking for a pic or explanation of a specific area, just LMK. I've got a grip ton of pics and likely one that will be what you're looking for. Or I can just shoot it. Part of the reason why I went red was to make the vac line easier to see for this thread.

And yes, VagCat has been iffy of late. Been using the drill-down on GAP of late for the random stuff I can't find or just need alt references for.

They lost the second SMIC because for whatever reason they also lost something like 30hp when they came here. In EU you can get a 190hp 1.8T from the factory. I wonder if it has anything to do with the gas here or just a simple fact that it costs too much to have multiple engine models shipped over etc. The Europeans know and love their cars.
That second SMIC is hella expensive unfortunately, mainly cause pretty well the only place you can get it is at the dealer
This is a sweet thread man, thanks for doing it.

Yes, as I know it lower octane gas plus the standard engine detuning for the US market. Sucks man, we always get hosed. There are larger SMIC and alt DSMIC options outside of OEM (ER, Apikol) but not unlike going the OEM / dealer route, the costs are still excessive for the return. Bottom line, not worth it.

So I finally tackled the job of replacing all the check valves/vacuum hoses, crank case ventilation hoses, and camchain tensioner and valve cover gaskets on my 2002 B6. This has been an awesome thread, and I wanted to contribute if I could. The 2002 model year (and I think some '03s - I can't recall what the VIN split was) have differences in the crank case ventilation system and the vacuum system. So my shopping list was a bit different compared to the one in the first post.I think I'm finally ready for stage 1 or the diode mod.

Really appreciate the contribution. The minor changes for 02 to 03 are often times confusing, but not so much anymore.
And I'm assuming you've not done the diode mod yet but I would certainly lean towards Stage 1 over it.

From your diagram it doesn't look like you have a pancake valve, I most certainly do have one.
This is going to be great :)

All B6's have it, it's just not located in the same place for the 02's.

Find some of this, coat your o-rings and re-install them. I can almost guarantee it will stop blow-by such as that. It doesn't harden and wont harm your engine if ingested:

I've been meaning to do this forever. Well, at least swapping the o-rings.

Plan was to pick up the GP Sorenson o-Ring Kit #800-9212 from Autozone but apparently they don't carry it anymore. Weird, cause this kit was available a few weeks ago. Bummer.
Looks like AutoZone has two other kits for the 1.8T:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-jjzoaZ8ij3g

I'd be inclined to go with the Victor Reinz as I've used their gaskets before but really have no clear info on either set. However, I'm noticing in the details section it says "Kit2 required" so I gotta figure out what that means before buying.

If using said sealant is indeed the way to go, I'm all about it. The blow-by around my injectors is pretty nasty.

[Outerfroggy1]

If using said sealant is indeed the way to go, I'm all about it. The blow-by around my injectors is pretty nasty.

I swear up and down by that stuff. Make sure its actual permatex just like in the pic. Its a gooey red/purpleish. I've used it to seal some pain in the ass leaks when nothing else will work. It seals any fluid (gas, oil, coolant, etc) Just make sure the surfaces are extremely clean and free of debris. It's anaerobic so it will only set up under pressure (absence of oxygen). So you don't have to rush before it sets up like silicone. Also wont harden and flake off into your manifold, it will pass thru the engine with no harm. It is kinda pricey tho at about 20 bucks a tube.

[alfalfa164]

And I'm assuming you've not done the diode mod yet but I would certainly lean towards Stage 1 over it.

Yeah, after doing more research on the diode mod, I said screw it. Although I enjoy tinkering with all sorts of stuff under the hood, I just didn't want to spend the time on the diode mod. Ended up getting the Revo Stage 1 tune this past Friday while they were having their sale ($100 off). Couldn't be happier with it.