Facelift Projector Headlights Conversion on a Pre-Facelift

[prizmatik]

I recently swapped out the headlights on my B5 A4 for the later model projectors. As many of you know, there are a couple of modifications you have to make when installing the projectors. It may sound difficult, but I have some pictures to show how easy it is to do.

The two modifications you have to make are, trimming the fender where the turn signals are placed, and you will need to make a new wiring setup for the new headlights because of the different plugs between the old and the new.

The first modification: Trimming the fender. I used an air tool with a cutting wheel, it was fast and easy.



The second modification: Setting up wires and connectors to go from your old plug to the new plug. You will need to cut 6 pieces of wire. One side of the wire will need a female plug to plug into the headlight housing and you will need to use heat shrinkable tubing to place around the connector because the connectors are placed very close together, I also cut half of the connector to ensure they did not make contact with each other. The other side of the wire will need a round male connector to fit into the cars stock headlight plug. Check out the picture I have of the connectors I used, they worked perfectly.
The cars stock headlight plug

The new headlight housings plug

The female connectors used on the new headlight housing





And after a job well done.

[coolgraymemo]

thank you.

how did you remove the prefacelift headlights? ive been trying to put some clear corners on my B5, but I have no idea how to take the old headlights out. im too cheap to buy facelift headlamps.

[A4Rob]

thank you.

how did you remove the prefacelift headlights? ive been trying to put some clear corners on my B5, but I have no idea how to take the old headlights out. im too cheap to buy facelift headlamps.

They are bolted to the core support. Open the hood and remove the torx bolts. Also, search. This topic has been covered dozens of times.

[prizmatik]

If you want to remove just the corner lens, there is a latch connected to the headlight itselft. If you look down from the top of the outer side of the light, you will see a latch you need to push down on, to remove the corner lens. It may be hard to see if you arent familiar, so you may want to remove the whole headlight assembly like A4Rob said. Be careful not to break anything. At the age of any B5, the plastic latch will break easily.

[germansurfer89]

So I purchased a 2000 or so a4 headlights with hids. I have a 98 a4 I need to make the wiring harness similar to what you made, only I cant tell what you plugged in where in the pics and I have hid's you don't. Would it be different? and do you have better pictures or could you describe what you plugged in where?

[prizmatik]

I didnt have stock H.I.D.'s, so I dont know what is different or similar as far as the plug goes. I determined which terminal I had to plug the wires to with a test light. Good Luck.

[kurisu]

nice write up man.
it'll help me out when i get to it!

[kurisu]

nice write up man.
it'll help me out when i get to it!

[Sp8t]

So....If I have Ecode light housing but obviously not stock bulbs, that is why I am having cluster warnings correct? If I just put the stock light's back in the message goes away? Sorry, but I have spent all kinds of time searching for this answer and have not seen it. Apologies in advance if it is obvious and I just missed it. Cut and dry answer if possible would be appreciated.

[prizmatik]

If you re-install the OEM headlights, the warning should go away. I am not sure, but there is probably a way to trick the computer so you can use your Ecodes without a warning.

[Sp8t]

If you re-install the OEM headlights, the warning should go away. I am not sure, but there is probably a way to trick the computer so you can use your Ecodes without a warning.

Can I leave the Ecodes in and just put stock bulbs back in? Appreciate you taking the time to help.

[prizmatik]

I truly dont know if that will work, its definitely worth a shot.
I assume you dont have factory Xenon's?

[Sp8t]

I truly dont know if that will work, its definitely worth a shot.
I assume you dont have factory Xenon's?

I wish I knew what I had...lol. He gave me all the old lights that he switched out so I might as well just try tinkering with putting the brake light bulbs back in since they seem extremely easy to get to and see if the code clears as I believe he did not change the ballast and just put in the bulbs so my problem should be fixed (hopefully). I am no expert at this by any means and only know to disconnect the battery so I don't fry myself is all I know that is certain. LOL. I love trying to challenge myself in figuring stuff like this out. I will see if I can get to it this weekend and report back my finding and maybe help somebody else with a similar situation. :) I did take a pic of the headlight itself just to show what I have.

[Urtorsen]

I couldn't stand the fitment of facelift lights without the proper mounts. So much so I had to go and get a facelift core support,$50 in a breakers yard but worth it when aligning the headlights and much sturdier- simple swap too.

[xdewaynex]

Shouldnt the core supports be the same, the only difference is the fenders? The lights have the 2 bolts up top, then a tab for the nipple on the inner corner of the headlight to fit into. If youre getting a cluster warning, it seems that the new bulbs are probably a higher wattage than oem. I know this happens with some aftermarket HID kits, but they sell error code eliminators to do away with the warning.

[Sp8t]

Shouldnt the core supports be the same, the only difference is the fenders? The lights have the 2 bolts up top, then a tab for the nipple on the inner corner of the headlight to fit into. If youre getting a cluster warning, it seems that the new bulbs are probably a higher wattage than oem. I know this happens with some aftermarket HID kits, but they sell error code eliminators to do away with the warning.

The only thing I have on that is he told me was the bulbs he put in were so efficient that it did not need to draw a lot of power and tricked the ecu into thinking they were not working or burnt out... Just tired of hearing the dings every time I start her up when I press down on the brake and then turn the lights on. Plus seeing the yellow alerts on the cluster bugs...

[dmaxn]

^ Contact Emil at this website: http://www.krautoparts.com/. He may have a solution for you or can tell you what the issue is.

[Sp8t]

^ Contact Emil at this website: http://www.krautoparts.com/. He may have a solution for you or can tell you what the issue is.

Just sent them a email. Thanks!

[Nollywood]

Shouldnt the core supports be the same, the only difference is the fenders?

Core support is different between facelift and pre-facelift cars. The lower bolt position for the headlamps (outer) is completely different. Most simply use the two upper bolts, and the lower inner retaining lug. I don't like that method - the headlamps shake, more when at idle, or driving slowly over uneven roads. You can actually see the beam dancing during night use, worse if you're running HID's.

I've always replaced the core support as part of the conversion. That cut fender in the write-up, there was no mention of treating the raw, cut metalwork. One way for the Red Terror to get its teeth into your B5.

[xdewaynex]

Learn something new everyday. I figured the core supports were the same.

[Artiemas]

Pardon the bump, but the connectors he used in the prefacelift socket, were those amp snap connectors?

[prizmatik]

I'm not sure what amp snap connectors are, but here is a picture of the electrical connectors I used, purchased from Home Depot

[Artiemas]

Yeah, those are what are I was talking about.

[prizmatik]

Those work perfect. You can even expand them a little to make a snug fit if necessary.

[cowabungaman]

I have a pair of Valeo USA one piece headlights that I want to swap to replace my stock prefacelift halogens on my 1999 A4. I bought a pair of headlight harnesses so I can solder to the existing wire to connect the headlight, however the connection for the turn signal is not plug and play as well. Oh wait! Or are they? It looks like all I have to do is take out the turn signal bulb from my new HID and put in the ones that are already on my car>>> Let's see if it's no big deal!

[Artiemas]

Trim off one of the slanted tabs. There are three tabs on the two piece headlights. One is a rectangle, and two are kind've curved. Trim off a curved one. Turn signal bulb will go in. Turn to lock. Done.

[hippierapinc]

...
I've always replaced the core support as part of the conversion. That cut fender in the write-up, there was no mention of treating the raw, cut metalwork. One way for the Red Terror to get its teeth into your B5.

I really don't mean to bring this up from the dead but I've had something gnawing away at the back of my mind for sometime.
I'm gearing up to do the two piece to one piece conversion, though I after seeing your comment about not treating the raw, cut metal work, I have a few questions that hopefully some of you can answer for me.

1) To treat the metal, I should sand/file down the raw metal, apply a few layers of zinc coating, add my primer, then my paint and clear coat, etc. ?

2) Could I just sand/file down the raw metal, apply a few layers of zinc coating, and then add the primer and call it a day? I mean the lip is going to be fairly hidden so I don't mind just priming it, if that'd be sufficient.

3) If I do prime and properly paint that area, I'll probably have to wait a week for the paint to dry completely before putting in the one piece headlights or I'll risk messing up the paint's curing process and getting paint on parts of my headlights. Is it correct to assume this?

4) Have any of you done this conversion and treated the raw metal, and if so, how did you go about it? Did you have to wait a week to put in the headlights?

[BaseDrifter]

When I cut my fenders I sanded, primed, painted, and clear coated the cut edges. I waited 24 hours between each coat of primer/paint. 24 hours after applying the final clear coat I put the headlights in.

[hippierapinc]

When I cut my fenders I sanded, primed, painted, and clear coated the cut edges. I waited 24 hours between each coat of primer/paint. 24 hours after applying the final clear coat I put the headlights in.

I see, all in all how long did this all take from start to finish?

P.s. I really like your indy fog light DIY.

[BaseDrifter]

Thanks!

Took about 4 days.

[hippierapinc]

Thanks!

Took about 4 days.

Ahh, that's not too bad. I was just worried my car would be down for a week as I won't have headlights in.

[prizmatik]

When I originally wrote this thread to help other enthusiasts, I never thought about the fact that rust can and will occur. This was mostly due to my novice experience with cars, but also due to me living in a ridiculously low rust environment (California). The fastest easiest and cheapest way to prevent rust rust corrosion is to use nail polish clear coat.


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[hippierapinc]

Thanks!

Took about 4 days.

From what I gathered from this, it took you about 4 days and you said you waited 24 hours between each coat of primer/ paint so does that mean you sanded, applied one coat of primer, one coat of paint and two coats of clear coat?