Program Key but only have 1 Fob and Plastic Key

[tgiblin]

I lost both my original keys and have to buy a new key. I didnt want to pay to program it so I have to manually unlock/ lock the car. Yesterday I bought a blank plastic key (wallet key) in hopes of a cheap way to program my only Fob. In theory it should work right? Anyone have any experience or insight? Thanks

[arodr006]

I think you may be out of luck. As far as a I understand at least one of the keys has to be programmed already. I tried doing something similar with my only fob (came witht the car but had never worked as a remote) and a spare blank that I had cut at local key kiosk that didn't have an immobilizer, but I could never get it to work. It wasn't until someone used VAG on my car to program the fob that it actually worked.

[Drew-B6]

As far as my dealership told me you are out of luck, you will need to take it in to the stealership and they can program it off the VIN, I think it is an hour charge for labor.

[infinkc]

this is what i did to program my key, you do not have to go to the dealer for this, or use Vagcom. I only had one switchblade(not programmed) key and the spare, worked fine. I had to do it when i replaced my lock module to pair the remote to the new unit.

1 Take the key you DO NOT(would be your plastic key) want to program and put it in the ignition. Turn it one click forward.

2 Close and lock the drivers door with the second key( your switchblade).

3 On the second key (the one in the drivers door) press the 'UNLOCK' button ONCE only. The lights will flash on the car, but the doors will remain locked

4 With the second key still in the drivers door, unlock then lock the door again.

5 Pull the key from the slot and test remote functions.

6 Open drivers door, remove key from ignition.

If doing more than one remote , if both of your remotes don't work, do the above for the first key, but on step #3, press the 'UNLOCK' button twice. The lights will flash twice, then continue on with step #4.

[tgiblin]

Yes infinkc I just wanted this key to switch the ignition on so I could do this procedure. Thanks

[alex_bgnet]

Read this and look at the authorized dealers then hope that there is one near you.

[bps4]

^^^
NA b5 s4s don't have immobilizers, you should be able to figure it out from this thread:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...highlight=bps4

[shadwarr1]

I think you may be out of luck. As far as a I understand at least one of the keys has to be programmed already. I tried doing something similar with my only fob (came witht the car but had never worked as a remote) and a spare blank that I had cut at local key kiosk that didn't have an immobilizer, but I could never get it to work. It wasn't until someone used VAG on my car to program the fob that it actually worked.

Wrong. You can actually clear all the keys that are programmed to the ECU and start from scratch. That's the best way, since you can only have up to 4 remotes programmed, and you may have other remotes programmed into the memory you weren't aware of.

You don't need vag-com to clear the remotes either.

Clearing of Memory positions.

- Switch ignition on using one key.
- Lock vehicle from outside at driver's door using separate key.
- Press "unlock" button on the remote transmitter key 5 times in one second intervals.
The emergency flashers and or the anti theft system horn comfirms every press of the button.
- After 6 seconds, press the remote transmitter "unlock" button to confirm the memory positions are now cleared. The central locking system should not unlock.
- Switch the ignition off.
- Up to 4 keys can now be coded again.

Like bpS4 mentioned, we don't have immobilizer chips in the key fobs.

[MLJS4]

is there anyway i can do this with one key only?

[shadwarr1]

is there anyway i can do this with one key only?

I don't believe so, unless you have the stealership do it. At the very least you can get a blank, and have a local locksmith cut it.

It doesn't have to be a key fob, just a regular spare key.

FYI, some locksmiths won't cut that type of key, I had to go to a security type locksmith. You can call your local "high-end" dealerships and see where they might get their keys cut. Cost me $20 to have the key cut.

[tgiblin]

So you think my idea will work?

[DonnieDark0]

i tried it with 3 spare keys , and I cant get none of them to work.

[bps4]

i tried it with 3 spare keys , and I cant get none of them to work.

1) Buy VagCom or borrow it from someone
2) Search and figure out how to use the measuring blocks to detect whether or not your ECU is getting a signal from the key FOB
3) Clear memory positions
4) Verify from the measuring blocks that you have cleared all the memory positions
5) Follow the steps from my previous post to program the fobs

[DonnieDark0]

OK , thanks man! will do asap. appreciate it

[shadwarr1]

So you think my idea will work?

Haven't you tried it yet?

[tgiblin]

Nope key is on order still

[shadwarr1]

I don't see why it shouldn't work. I see some people having problems not being able to get it to work.

I've done this multiple times with 100% success. Check to make sure with vag-com that the ecu is receiving the signal from the remote. If not, then check your batteries (yes, there's 2 in there). If it's still not receiving a signal, then you might have a bad remote.

[DonnieDark0]

theres 2 batteries where? in the ECU? or are you talking about the fob? cause theres only one battery in the key.

[shadwarr1]

theres 2 batteries where? in the ECU? or are you talking about the fob? cause theres only one battery in the key.

Then that would make your key fob not work. There are suppose to be 2 batteries in there. I just opened mine to check so I don't eat my own words.

[bps4]

Then that would make your key fob not work. There are suppose to be 2 batteries in there. I just opened mine to check so I don't eat my own words.

yeah they stack on top of each other, 2 CR 1620

[DonnieDark0]

ahh I see. Just bought them at the dealership and still no confirmation of pressing the button at all. So I cant even get past step 2. I need to do the vagcom way then. damnit!

[MLJS4]

I don't believe so, unless you have the stealership do it. At the very least you can get a blank, and have a local locksmith cut it.

It doesn't have to be a key fob, just a regular spare key.

FYI, some locksmiths won't cut that type of key, I had to go to a security type locksmith. You can call your local "high-end" dealerships and see where they might get their keys cut. Cost me $20 to have the key cut.

I gotta look into that, thanks my man

[DonnieDark0]

somehow by the graces of god , I actually got it to work.

just decided to try it again. and it worked. I bought the 2 batteries from the dealership ( 6.50)

I turned the spare key into the ignition and turned it two clicks until the accessory lights came on. Then I shut the door and locked the door with the key. Then i clicked the unlock button ONCE. saw the lights around the car blink. Then I just hit lock and unlock on the FOB. Then apparently that programmed it to remote 1.

voila. WORKS. so fing syked.

[28cmod]

3 On the second key (the one in the drivers door) press the 'UNLOCK' button ONCE only. The lights will flash on the car, but the doors will remain locked

I have struggled with getting my keys programmed sense I bought my car 6 months back. Fob didn't work from day one. New batteries, tried several programming methods with no luck. Including using a vag-com.
Replaced pump thinking the board on it had maybe gotten wet and was hosed. No luck. I haven't worked with it sense as I have been focused on other stuff with the car but now it is starting to annoy me again.

Put key in door and lock - Doors lock, no honk
Put door in trunk and lock - Doors lock and alarm honks
Try to program fob - lights never blink to acknowledge it sees signal from fob

I have replaced the pump with a working pump with no luck at all. ECU has been replaced due to other changes. I have tried a second fob that came from a good car (although it was an A6 so maybe there is a mismatch there...
What is left in this system to look at? I assume there is a module that receives the signal from the fob and send it to the locking pump but I have no idea where that might be.
I think the fact that the alarm doesn't set when locked from the drivers door could be a good clue. I just don't know enough about this system on the car...

[bps4]

^^^ read prior posts and get vagcom to read the measuring blocks to detect the fob to ecu communication

[28cmod]

I see no changes... That's why I am looking for some detailed info in what else is involved in this system.
How can I check the fob to be sure it is comparable with my car?

[CHEROHALA]

this is what i did to program my key, you do not have to go to the dealer for this, or use Vagcom. I only had one switchblade(not programmed) key and the spare, worked fine. I had to do it when i replaced my lock module to pair the remote to the new unit.

1 Take the key you DO NOT(would be your plastic key) want to program and put it in the ignition. Turn it one click forward.

2 Close and lock the drivers door with the second key( your switchblade).

3 On the second key (the one in the drivers door) press the 'UNLOCK' button ONCE only. The lights will flash on the car, but the doors will remain locked

4 With the second key still in the drivers door, unlock then lock the door again.

5 Pull the key from the slot and test remote functions.

6 Open drivers door, remove key from ignition.

If doing more than one remote , if both of your remotes don't work, do the above for the first key, but on step #3, press the 'UNLOCK' button twice. The lights will flash twice, then continue on with step #4.

I tried the above with 1working key in the ignition and it umprogrammed the working key... i dont have a plastic key. is that typical?

[bps4]

I tried the above with 1working key in the ignition and it umprogrammed the working key... i dont have a plastic key. is that typical?

It can happen. There are four memory positions on the ECU for the FOB to be programmed on which are represented by four bits 0000

Open VAG-Com

[Select]
[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] (whichever is applicable to the car, as found here)
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter channel "01" (May be channel "21" in some Audi models).
[Read]

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/car...e-matching.htm

You do NOT use this to program the key, just to see which memory positions are taken. For example if you see 1100 that means memory positions 1 and 2 are taken. If you see 0100 that means just memory position 2 is taken (re: one fob is programmed)

@28cmod - If you want to see if it compatible, you can see if the ECU picks up the FoB's signal correctly. Reference is page 44 on this link:
http://vwforum.vwforum.ro/index.php?...post&id=127910

Read Measuring Block 002 on the central locking system, press the buttons on your fob and see if the bits in the second group of bits flip to 1s

****
The step by step instructions from some of the previous posts will work 99% of the time, if you have special circumstances or unsure if a FOB is working or the ECU is picking up the signal, you have to have VAG unless you want to spend money buying more FOBs to try to solve the problem rather than actually diagnosing it (ask me how I know)

[28cmod]

^^^^Great link! Thank you. I'll be working through that shortly.

[CHEROHALA]

this is driving me crazy...i found my extra plastic key (not really plastic).... i can program ea key independently but I think the above it right. ONLY 1-key can be programmed.

[28cmod]

@28cmod - If you want to see if it compatible, you can see if the ECU picks up the FoB's signal correctly. Reference is page 44 on this link:
http://vwforum.vwforum.ro/index.php?...post&id=127910

Read Measuring Block 002 on the central locking system, press the buttons on your fob and see if the bits in the second group of bits flip to 1s

Good info, it showed that the car is seeing the key buttons being pressed.

Followed these directions
Open VAG-Com

[Select]
[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] (whichever is applicable to the car, as found here)
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter channel "01" (May be channel "21" in some Audi models).
[Read]

35, Cent Locking is readable. However, when I go into adaptation channels 01 and 21 are not readable.
Any ideas?

[bps4]

Good info, it showed that the car is seeing the key buttons being pressed.

Followed these directions
Open VAG-Com

[Select]
[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] (whichever is applicable to the car, as found here)
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter channel "01" (May be channel "21" in some Audi models).
[Read]

35, Cent Locking is readable. However, when I go into adaptation channels 01 and 21 are not readable.
Any ideas?

see page 45, this will show you which if any memory positions are currently taken

once you have confirmed, follow the steps in the same PDF to clear all memory positions, you can switch lock/unlock in those steps if one doesn't work

then reconfirm that your memory positions are clear (all zeros from page 45)

Now you are ready to program the key using steps from that PDF guide

once you think you have done one, confirm that the key is in memory using the steps from page 45 again, one of those 4 bits will now be set

more keys to program? Follow the same steps again but the number of time u hit the lock/unlock varies depending on Which memory slot u r trying to fill

hope that helps

[28cmod]

Found my issue (well at least the car's issue) and got the fob programed. I noticed when locking the car from driver's door the alarm never set but when locking from trunk the alarm set.
So I attempted to program key from the trunk lock and it worked perfectly.

Now at some point I need to figure out what is wrong with the driver's door lock...

[shadwarr1]

Found my issue (well at least the car's issue) and got the fob programed. I noticed when locking the car from driver's door the alarm never set but when locking from trunk the alarm set.
So I attempted to program key from the trunk lock and it worked perfectly.

Now at some point I need to figure out what is wrong with the driver's door lock...

Have you tried turning the key in the drivers door lock to the unlock position twice? If it doesn't unlock all the doors when you turn it a second time, then you have a bad electrical switch/connection in your lock inside the door. Which would explain why your alarm isn't arming from the drivers door either.

That switch/sensor sends a signal to the central locking system to unlock/lock the doors or arm the alarm depending on which way the key's turned.

[JCN83]

this is what i did to program my key, you do not have to go to the dealer for this, or use Vagcom. I only had one switchblade(not programmed) key and the spare, worked fine. I had to do it when i replaced my lock module to pair the remote to the new unit.

1 Take the key you DO NOT(would be your plastic key) want to program and put it in the ignition. Turn it one click forward.

2 Close and lock the drivers door with the second key( your switchblade).

3 On the second key (the one in the drivers door) press the 'UNLOCK' button ONCE only. The lights will flash on the car, but the doors will remain locked

4 With the second key still in the drivers door, unlock then lock the door again.

5 Pull the key from the slot and test remote functions.

6 Open drivers door, remove key from ignition.

If doing more than one remote , if both of your remotes don't work, do the above for the first key, but on step #3, press the 'UNLOCK' button twice. The lights will flash twice, then continue on with step #4.

This just worked for me (kind of). It unprogrammed the old key, but the new one works. Go figure! I'm not going to worry about it for now. I figure I could VAG to clear the memory, etc. but I'm not going to mess with it. I have one working (and new) switchblade - and another one as backup that I could always program down the road. Thanks for the info!

[GKTS4]

Is the car horn supposed to honk any time you lock the doors from the remote? My remote works fine with locking and unlocking the doors but it has never honked when locking the door. Is the honking relevant in any way?

[JCN83]

Is the car horn supposed to honk any time you lock the doors from the remote? My remote works fine with locking and unlocking the doors but it has never honked when locking the door. Is the honking relevant in any way?

Mine DOES honk each time I lock from the remote - every Audi I've ever owned has. Does your horn work, in general?

[bps4]

Is the car horn supposed to honk any time you lock the doors from the remote? My remote works fine with locking and unlocking the doors but it has never honked when locking the door. Is the honking relevant in any way?

mine honks but that honking noise is weaksauce anyway

[GKTS4]

Mine DOES honk each time I lock from the remote - every Audi I've ever owned has. Does your horn work, in general?

Yes my horn works just fine when I apply it from within the vehicle. And my mom's B6 honks, or rather does that beeping chirp sound, when the doors are locked. Oh well I'm not that worried about it as long as my remotes work with no issues. Thanks.

[fshowcars]

Mine DOES honk each time I lock from the remote - every Audi I've ever owned has. Does your horn work, in general?

if i lock the car when unlocked... it beeps... if the car is locked and i press lock again, i only get the flashing lights... no beep. Horn works fine.

i also had to reprogram after swapping in a central locking pump.