Oil Change DIY

[jbradle7]

Oil change accomplished... I have to say it was probably one of the easiest most straightforward oil changes I've ever done. This being said, I'm still going to try to put it all together in an attempt to help any novices out there that may also want to save a few dollars by changing their own oil. Please be advised: I am not an ASE Certified Mechanic and there are probably a half-dozen different ways to accomplish the task but this is what worked for me. Hope it proves helpful to others.

Parts Required:
*5qts of your favorite variety oil (I used Castrol Syntec 5W40)
*Oil Filter
*Drain Plug Seal (Crush Washer)


Tools Required:
* Ramps
* Oil Drain Pan
* Phillips #2 Screwdriver
* 3/8 Drive Ratchet
* 18mm Socket
* 3/8 Drive Torque Wrench
* Oil Filter “B” Cap Wrench

Misc:
* Shop Towels
* Container for recycling used oil

Procedure:

1.) Prepare Automobile
a. Warm engine to operating temperature.
b. Position automobile on hard level surface.
c. Position ramps centered on tires and parallel to sides of vehicle.
d. Drive up ramps slowly and smoothly, this will help ensure the ramps do not slide or move as you are going up.
e. Engage parking brake or chock one of the rear wheels.


2.) Remove Underbody Pan
a. Remove three attaching screws passenger side (shown below).

b. Remove three attaching screws driver side.
c. Disengage three attaching screws (captive) from rear of pan.

d. Slide pan back towards rear of automobile, disengaging front tabs.
e. Pan should now be free, set aside for reinstallation later.

3.) Drain Oil
a. Position drain pan under oil pan.

b. Using ratchet w/ 18mm socket, loosen drain plug.
c. Finish loosening drain plug by hand and remove plug quickly, make sure oil flows into drain pan.

d. Keep watch as the oil drains and reposition drain pan as required.
e. Remove oil fill cap (allows more air into the engine helping the oil drain easier).

4.) Remove Oil Filter
a. Remove engine cover by gently pulling up until rubber grommets are disengaged from ball studs on engine (there was some debris around the oil fill opening so I used a shop vac first to prevent any dirt etc from getting into the engine).


b. Position a shop towel around the base of the oil filter to absorb any residual oil that may drip out as filter is removed.

c. Using ratchet w/ cap wrench, loosen oil filter.

d. Remove oil filter and wipe up any oil remaining on engine mating surface.

5.) Install New Oil Filter
a. Using your finger or a shop towel, apply a light film of fresh engine oil onto oil filter seal.

b. Hand-tighten oil filter plus an additional 1/4 turn.

6.) Install Drain Plug
*** CAUTION *** Use care when installing drain plug, oil pan threads can be easily damaged if plug is over-tightened.
a. Discard old drain plug seal.
b. Wipe threads of drain plug and install new seal.
c. Thread drain plug, by hand only, into oil pan.
d. Wipe excess oil from oil pan and hand-tighten drain plug.
e. Using torque wrench and 18mm socket, tighten drain plug to 30nm (aprox 22lbft)

7.) Add Engine Oil
a. Carefully add 1qt fresh oil into oil fill opening (there is a metal baffle that prevents a funnel from being used, but it is just as easy to pour the oil directly into the engine).

b. Repeat previous step four more times (owner’s manual calls for 4.9qts)
c. Wipe off oil fill cap and reinstall.

8.) Finishing up
a. Start engine and check for leaks at oil pan drain plug and around base of oil filter.
b. Turn off engine.
c. Reinstall engine cover.
d. Reinstall underbody pan.
e. Carefully back your automobile off of the ramps.
f. If you own a dipstick, wait 5 minutes and then check the oil level. or Insert your key into the ignition (DO NOT START THE ENGINE), go to MMI/CAR/OIL LEVEL and wait for the computer to recalculate the oil level for you.


*** NOTE *** Do not forget to update your service records, whether it be in the owners manual or a separate log book. Be sure to save your oil/filter receipt somewhere safe... just in case you ever need to provide documentation that the oil change was performed.

[Comp4k]

http://www.audinow.com/general/494-2...hange-diy.html

It's on an A5, but should be pretty similar.

[ThePiombino]

Thanks, not a bad little write-up. I did noticed the A5 was only lifted in front via ramps... sitting unleveled might affect oil drainage. I think I'll try the plastic ramps to lift the front and then jack the rear of the car on the differential or subframe mounts so I don’t have to mess with the body seam issue. I'll try to remember to take some photos when I do the oil change so I can share my experience.

A DIY specifically for the A4 would be MUCH appreciated! ;0)

[guy013]

1st and foremost you HAVE to buy the oil dipstick that DavidB8 posted. Do not rely on the MMI reading. it takes forever to register and in the mean time you have NO IDEA how much oil is in your engine. The oil dipstick MAY not be 100% accurate but it's the closest damn thing you have

[John4378]

Or you can buy the tool the dealer uses, like I did.

There's nothing fancy or tricky to changing the oil on the B8 A4. Jack the car up, drain the oil, put new oil in and change the filter. It's much easier than on the B7 because you don't have a housing for the cartridge filter (PITA to get off and full of used oil), the B8 oil filter is located up top for easy removal, and the engine cover is easier to get off.

[ItsDubC]

Or you can buy the tool the dealer uses, like I did.

Actually, I asked ECS Tuning to check into this and they said that this part is currently blacklisted or something. In other words, no one outside of a dealership is able to get it anymore. Do you have a part # by any chance so I can do some investigating? TIA

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Actually, I asked ECS Tuning to check into this and they said that this part is currently blacklisted or something. In other words, no one outside of a dealership is able to get it anymore. Do you have a part # by any chance so I can do some investigating? TIA

I do believe he's ordered a different tool, not VW/Audi so far as I can tell it is an aftermarket tool designed for this purpose.

[ItsDubC]

I do believe he's ordered a different tool, not VW/Audi so far as I can tell it is an aftermarket tool designed for this purpose.

Hmm... have you ever come across such a tool in the aftermarket scene?

[Tone-Dogg]

I too would like a DIY for B8 2.0 Oil Change, can anyone tell me what oil to use and how much goes in the 2.0? Can I just use Mobil 1 5/30 Syn?

[TCHUN003]

Castrol syntec 5w-40 IIRC. If you do a search in the b6 forumn, people have had much better results with other companies such as castrol syntec... Mobil 1 was trying to save money by producing an oil that was of lesser quality. Anyways I'll try to take pics when I change my oil at 10k. I've done oil changes on my b6 and my buddy's b7 and I'm assuming that it's going to be much easier on our cars simply due to the filter location.

[John4378]

There was a guy selling them here on the forum. He got a discount buying in bulk from the dealer near him, and he just marked the price up $5 plus shipping and sent it to me. It is the same tool the dealerships use. It came with instructions as to where to place the thumb screw, and where to read the numbers at the bottom for various engine sizes. The tool is good for 4 cyl, 6 cyl, 8 cylinder engines.

[ItsDubC]

^Is there a part # on the tool you have?

As for oil, I think I remember seeing Castrol on the oil cap but I've heard good things about Total, Motul, and Lubro Moly.

[John4378]

It's an Assenmacher tool, and their part number is #AU 40178. The sheet says, "Applicable to 2009 models not equipped with a dipstick". There is a chart at the bottom for 2009 2.0, 3.2, and 4.2L engines. Their website is www.asttool.com

Here is the link directly to the parts page for the tool: http://www.asttool.com/search_results.php

Hope that helps!

[ItsDubC]

^Awesome man, thx. I'd rep you if I could.

[eaniemeanie]

Oil change accomplished... .

Good job! I did mine the other day and the damn part that connects to the oil filter (with the plastic bit) stayed on the car....

[Tone-Dogg]

Jbradle7, thank so much for the torque specs on the drain plug, kind of oil to use, and about of oil to put in. Very nice:)

[eboosted]

Mobil 1 was trying to save money by producing an oil that was of lesser quality.

I don't think you could back up that claim

OTOH, You could akways buy a Pela Oil Extractor, it'll be paid at the first oil change

[Ryan_T]

^ Interesting.



On a related note, I've driven 3000km since the last oil change (25000km service), and the Oil Level hasn't dropped a bit. This is weird, since it usually drops gradually to a point where I need to add a bit after ~5000km. I wonder if the engine's stopped burning oil now.

[eboosted]

My car burns less oil as time goes by, I'm at 10,000kms and it runs stronger than ever, I guess the rings are sealing properly now

[Tone-Dogg]

I don't think you could back up that claim

OTOH, You could akways buy a Pela Oil Extractor, it'll be paid at the first oil change

I have been SO close to buying this thing, it's very reasonable as for price, but some say it's better to drain the old fashion way to get all out via drain hole. Thoughts anyone. I've also heard some use the extractor every other oil change. I mean really the time savings alone pays for it self.

[eboosted]

there's always a bit of oil leftovers inside the oil galleries or bottom of oil pan whatever method you choose and that is in no way any harm to the engine at all.

Now, the B8 lacks of a dipstick so I'm not sure where should the extraction hose be fitted, any ideas?

[Tone-Dogg]

Pretty sure you would insert here, right in the front, this is courtesy of DavidB8, I hope he doesn't mind I'm using the photo. He installed the oil dipstick as a result of where he resides. (Cold temps)

[TCHUN003]

I don't think you could back up that claim

Sorry, I should've put that in quotes. It was actually someone else on the forums (a credible member) who stated that. They posted independant studies and showed their own logs over time and logs of other members to prove his conclusions. There were also many articles that stated that Mobil 1 changed the components in their original mix which caused problems. This doesn't mean that they saved any money during the process, but that does mean that it's not the same type of oil they originally marketed. Anyways that was enough for me to switch, but I personally can't back up that claim. I switched to Castrol Syntec 5w-40 and my B6 has been running smoother.

[ItsDubC]

I have Audicare but will probably be buying a Pela or Mityvac to do an oil change between each service interval. The way I see it, if indeed it is better to drain the oil from the bottom to get extra nasties out, the dealership will be the one to drain the oil that way. After Audicare coverage runs out, I may do every other oil change the oldschool way if it can be proven that draining the oil from the bottom is much better. So is anyone using anything other than Castrol?

[eboosted]

I'll stick with Mobil 1, had great results in the past and pressent.

On the other hand, how can you possibly tell if the car is running smoother with another oil?????, that's kinda absurd. You need to compare different oil analysis on the same car, same mileage and same exact conditions in order to proof one oil is working better than other

[TCHUN003]

I'll stick with Mobil 1, had great results in the past and pressent.

On the other hand, how can you possibly tell if the car is running smoother with another oil?????, that's kinda absurd. You need to compare different oil analysis on the same car, same mileage and same exact conditions in order to proof one oil is working better than other

You're correct because it's true that all conditions could not be replicated in the exact same way, but after switching oils, the engines were taken apart and there was reduced sludge, the cars were logged and performance increased after the switch. It seemed to be the case for several other members too. Unless the B6A4 1.8T has the tendency to form sludge early on and get better with increased mileage, changing oils would seem to be the cause of the reduced sludge and increase in performance. Actually we can't imply causation because the engines were not tested with the same mileage, but there seems to be a correlation. Again I'm not personally stating that Mobil 1 has switched to cheaper components to save money because that is only what I've heard. However, it does seem that Mobil 1 is not what they once were before. Also I'm not stating that Castrol Syntec is the best oil out there because there are more expensive companies that are even better, but it is a substitute that is on Audi's recommended list and I've had great experiences with it.

[hiwords1]

do you guys know if not taking the car in for oil changes instead doing it yourself will void your warranty? dealer said i would need receipts from a professional saying they did they work but i hate having others change my oil.

[jbradle7]

I did a search on the FTC website and came across some info on Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act... it was not entirely clear to me but then again I'm not a lawyer.
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/busi...#Magnuson-Moss
The excerpt below is from the section called ""Tie-In Sales Provisions":
Generally, tie-in sales provisions are not allowed. Such a provision would require a purchaser of the warranted product to buy an item or service from a particular company to use with the warranted product in order to be eligible to receive a remedy under the warranty.

The following are examples of prohibited tie-in sales provisions.
In order to keep your new Plenum Brand Vacuum Cleaner warranty in effect, you must use genuine Plenum Brand Filter Bags. Failure to have scheduled maintenance performed, at your expense, by the Great American Maintenance Company, Inc., voids this warranty.
While you cannot use a tie-in sales provision, your warranty need not cover use of replacement parts, repairs, or maintenance that is inappropriate for your product.

The following is an example of a permissible provision that excludes coverage of such things.
While necessary maintenance or repairs on your AudioMundo Stereo System can be performed by any company, we recommend that you use only authorized AudioMundo dealers. Improper or incorrectly performed maintenance or repair voids this warranty.

Although tie-in sales provisions generally are not allowed, you can include such a provision in your warranty if you can demonstrate to the satisfaction of the FTC that your product will not work properly without a specified item or service. If you believe that this is the case, you should contact the warranty staff of the FTC's Bureau of Consumer Protection for information on how to apply for a waiver of

Edmunds is always a good reference
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/warran...6/article.html
"Keep all service records and receipts: This is another good habit to keep in case you want to sell your vehicle, but also to have as proof that you maintained your vehicle. If you perform maintenance on the car yourself, save the receipts for the parts and fluids you bought."

[Nght&Day-B8]

I use Motul 300V or 8100 X-cess, honestly once i started using Motul i never went back to any other oil. You guys say you cant feel the difference between oils but i swear by Motul. Even a buddy of mine who runs it couldnt get his hands on some when he needed to so he went with Mobil1 i believe and said he noticed the car running slugish and not so smoothly. So either we're both going crazy or it really is an awsome oil lol. OP i see you used Mann filter, i was thinking about ordering that for the next oil change, its the same exact thing as OEM isnt it?

[jbradle7]

OP i see you used Mann filter, i was thinking about ordering that for the next oil change, its the same exact thing as OEM isnt it?

This photo is a little fuzzy but the "Audi" filter has the same numbers marked on it as the Mann... not sure if that is a spec# or if Mann makes the filter for Audi as well. They look identical too, inside elements, baffles etc looks the same on both. The price difference between the two is only about a dollar but it bugs me to pay more for a filter just because it has the Audi name on it, so for GP I bought the Mann filter instead. If you are paranoid about your warranty or just like spending more $, go for the Audi filter.

[ItsDubC]

I just did my 1st DIY oil change on this car on Fri afternoon (notes w/ pics/video to come) and I must say, I can DEFINITELY feel a difference. I feel like I'm goin crazy here cuz it's just an oil change, but the improvement is significant enough to where I almost feel like I just got chipped again. The car now seems like it doesn't mind staying in the upper RPM ranges longer before shifting, and it also seems to pull harder in the upper RPMs. My scientific mind is trying to convince me that it's simply a placebo effect but every drive I've taken since the oil change has me believing that the improvement is very real.

I narrowed my choice of oil down to Total Quartz 9000 and Lubro Moly Synthoil Premium and ended up going w/ the Lubro Moly since a report on BITOG shows that the Total Quartz is actually a bit thin for a 40 weight during high temps. Being that Houston gets pretty hot during the summer, I figured I'd wait til a winter time oil change to try out the Total. Anyway, I had read great things about Lubro Moly and know that there are a ton of ppl who swear by it, including Audi mechanics who are also enthusiasts. Needless to say, I am now a true believer in all the hype. The dealership did my last oil change a little less than 5k miles ago and now w/ the Lubro Moly, my car just seems like it was set free or something lol. I don't remember it ever feeling this alive after previous oil changes but the skeptic in me is still leaning toward it being a placebo effect. Regardless, I'm to the point where I now actually want to change my oil every 5k for performance reasons rather than maintenance reasons.

Am I going crazy or are some oils really that much better than others?

EDIT:
btw, I'm using an OEM oil filter

[Tone-Dogg]

^Excellent job, thanks for your feedback

[A4rooster]

Those ramps look like they make the job real easy (instead of using a jack like I do). What brand are they and were did you buy, I need a set of those.

[Nght&Day-B8]

Regardless, I'm to the point where I now actually want to change my oil every 5k
Am I going crazy or are some oils really that much better than others?

Pfft, i change oil every 3,500-4,000 miles. I do oil changes for $60-$70 so its not like a pain in the side to do this less than 5k miles at a time, new oil never hurt anyone has it its definitely great to keep the motor running with clean oil. Also if you wanna try an oil that works better than most oils try either one of the Motul's i mentioned above

[ItsDubC]

lol I thought about trying Motul but then there were so many different kinds to choose from that I just said f*ck it. Now that you've narrowed it down to two for me, I'll likely try one of them out in the future Ya oil + filter cost me less than $50 so I will definitely be doing this more often.

[cory_can]

newbie question......

I've never done oil changes myself but this seems pretty simple (with a minimal set of unique tool investment) so I'm going to give it a try for changes between AudiCare schedule. One question.... if you're using ramps and the car is on an incline would you still get full/proper drainage of old oil and any sediment etc.?

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

newbie question......

I've never done oil changes myself but this seems pretty simple (with a minimal set of unique tool investment) so I'm going to give it a try for changes between AudiCare schedule. One question.... if you're using ramps and the car is on an incline would you still get full/proper drainage of old oil and any sediment etc.?

I like to use a jack and stands so that I can pitch the car towards the oil drain plug to ensure maximum drainage!

[jbradle7]

Those ramps look like they make the job real easy (instead of using a jack like I do). What brand are they and were did you buy, I need a set of those.

The ones I have are made by Blitz, I bought them at Walmart but you should be able to buy from any auto parts store for less than $50. I made sure to get the set rated at 12000lbs since they are stronger and will accept wider tires without issue.

[jbradle7]

newbie question......

I've never done oil changes myself but this seems pretty simple (with a minimal set of unique tool investment) so I'm going to give it a try for changes between AudiCare schedule. One question.... if you're using ramps and the car is on an incline would you still get full/proper drainage of old oil and any sediment etc.?

Ideally you want the car level, but with this oil pan it looks like a slight pitch towards the rear would help drainage. I was on a level surface and left the rear of the car on the ground so it worked out great.

[eaniemeanie]

The oil plug is at the rear of the pan so lifting the front is fine.

I just purchased my filter and crush washer from Sunset Audi filter $10.50, shipping $7.50, crusher washer free (wasn't on their website so they threw it in for free!), no tax. Should have bought two filters to offset the shipping. Next time I"m buying two filters and the rubber trunk liner.

Sunset prices fricken rock. I saved about $500-$600 on parts for the 911 last month at Sunset Porsche.