Front rotor and pad replacement DIY

[eaniemeanie]

The jobs done and it was pretty easy. One clip, two bolts, (use a wire tied to the shocks to hold the caliper up). Be careful you dont pinch the brake line moving it around. Remove the brake sensor on the left wheel. The old pads are easy to get out. The rear one just pops out, the front one I tapped out with a socket extension through the hole in the caliper. Use a caliper spreader to push the pads back before taking out the rear pad. Pay attention to the brake fluid dispenser since when you push the calipers back you'll over fill the resevoir. The new pads just slip right in.

Use a T-30 socket to remove the rotor screw. A couple big hammers on the old rotor to break it loose. Then lightly sand the axle wheel face smooth to remove the corrosion. Then put it all back together! Also make sure you bed the pads according to the manufacturer. Carbotech gives you details how to.

Hopefully this will end the dreaded brake dust!

[TCHUN003]

Nice, have you done an oil change yet? If so, does the b8 just have a canister oil filter like in the b7's? BTW I just noticed that you live in Temecula, I'm actually down there almost every weekend.

[eaniemeanie]

Nice, have you done an oil change yet? If so, does the b8 just have a canister oil filter like in the b7's? BTW I just noticed that you live in Temecula, I'm actually down there almost every weekend.

No I had the dealer do the oil through the Audi Care program. But I think I'll be the one doing them from now on since Audi care expired.

Why is it you're down here so often?

[TCHUN003]

No I had the dealer do the oil through the Audi Care program. But I think I'll be the one doing them from now on since Audi care expired.

Why is it you're down here so often?

My girlfriend lives there. So did you feel like Audi Care was worth it? I know they'll ask me if I want it tomorrow when I go in, but I feel like I won't really need it.

[eaniemeanie]

My girlfriend lives there. So did you feel like Audi Care was worth it? I know they'll ask me if I want it tomorrow when I go in, but I feel like I won't really need it.

It was worth it for the fact that al I had to do was go in and have the oil etc serviced and not have to pay then since the payment was in the financing I did for the car. It's nice that you take it to the dealer so that any updates or Technical Bulletins were taken care of. I asked for an estimate on how much the 55K service was going to be ($500) because of plugs etc. So it nicer to not have to pay that every three months (10K mi.).

But I'm not sure you can get the package after the fact....

[B8_Jim]

But I'm not sure you can get the package after the fact....

You can buy Audi Care up until the 45000mi/4 year service ** but the services before you buy it are not pro-rated i.e. you still have to pay full price. So, it really only makes sense to buy it before the first service interval you would have to pay for otherwise - 15k miles here in the US.

[ASU Daniel]

cool

[eaniemeanie]

Got the rotors!
New rotors. 30mm thick.
Min for changing rotors....28mm
2mm of wear and that's it? WOW


.

[dmg312]

this should be good. brake jobs are usually easy save for bleeding the brakes. Having a brake bleeder makes it a lot easier though. Way to help save $$$$

[eaniemeanie]

this should be good. brake jobs are usually easy save for bleeding the brakes. Having a brake bleeder makes it a lot easier though. Way to help save $$$$

Got one that I use to do the Porsche... You have to bleed the brakes to change the pads?

I forgot to mention that I bought Carbotech Bobcats for the pads.

[Kay15]

You are going to use the stock rotors and pads im guessing?

I think the parts guys could give me one hell of a deal but my brake pads are wearing very unevenly. Inside of the pads are gone and theoutside still have about half the pad left if not a little bit more. I am guessing that is not right?

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

You are going to use the stock rotors and pads im guessing?

I think the parts guys could give me one hell of a deal but my brake pads are wearing very unevenly. Inside of the pads are gone and theoutside still have about half the pad left if not a little bit more. I am guessing that is not right?

Sounds like a general lube issue. Fairly common. Grease everything up and you will probably notice better wear.

[DavidB8]

You are going to use the stock rotors and pads im guessing?

I think the parts guys could give me one hell of a deal but my brake pads are wearing very unevenly. Inside of the pads are gone and theoutside still have about half the pad left if not a little bit more. I am guessing that is not right?

Oh that is so not right. I had a problem like that on B5 and had my brakes done4 times in under 2 years until they finally got it fixed right. If I were you I would get the dealer to fix that problem. It is most likely the slider which is what Chris is eluding to with the grease. Problem is your rotors are shot now due to the uneven wear. I hope you get this one figured out because it cost me a small fortune on my other Audi but if I had just gone to the dealer instead of trying to find a cheaper garage I probably would have saved in the long run for sure.

[Quattrolover]

The only time you should will have to bleed the brakes is if you take the brake line off and enable air to get in. You should not have to take the brake line off. Just remove the bolts that hold on the caliper and put it to the side to remove the rotors. You will need a big C clamp and a small board to push/compress the piston back into the caliper prior to reinstalling.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

The only time you should will have to bleed the brakes is if you take the brake line off and enable air to get in. You should not have to take the brake line off. Just remove the bolts that hold on the caliper and put it to the side to remove the rotors. You will need a big C clamp and a small board to push/compress the piston back into the caliper prior to reinstalling.

Careful with that. Rear calipers require a push and twist. There are special tools required to compress the rear calipers. If you don't use them you WILL damage the internals of the caliper and you'll be buying new rear calipers. I know this thread is for front rotors/calipers but you can use the piston retracting tool for both, it really makes it easier than the cumbersome C-clamp and board method. The tools isn't costly though, and it is kind of slick IMO: Click here for the piston retracting tool.

[Quattrolover]

Thanks for chiming in on this. I have not done any on a Audi, just others cars. I was more addressing the bleeding the brakes issue. Thanks! I will look into the tool you speak of.

[DavidB8]

Cool tool, pretty cheap too considering what you save doing the job yourself.

[Kerwind]

"Since the VAG group introduced the ‘Electronic Parking Brake (53)’ system in 2003 it has become
standard equipment on the A6 (4F), A8 (4E) and Passat (3C) models. This increased level of
technology now demands the use of suitable diagnostic equipment to carry out routine service
procedures such as brake pad replacement and caliper removal."

Does this apply to our cars?

[eaniemeanie]

Does this apply to our cars?

I fricken hope not.

I bought Carbotech pads from PureMS. I talked to the Carbotech Rep and he said they are making them (should be made now) We'll see when they come in.

[B8_Jim]

Does this apply to our cars?

Probably - but likely just for the rear. The Electonic Parking Brake isn't on the front calipers AFAIK - only the rears. I'm assuming vag-com will put the EPB in "service" position?

[DavidB8]

I think Adam might get upset if he see's you saying that.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ghlight=rotors

[eaniemeanie]

Picked up the Carbotech pads today from PureMS here in Temecula.

Might change them out this week-end.

Also ordered the intermediate shaft bearing for the 911 yesterday. I'm not happy about having to work on two cars at the same time...boohoo.

[B_Boy]

i got my new rotors from adams rotors today. Ill post some pics soon, they look sick!

[Kay15]

I heard changing the rotors is plain and simple it is the pads that need adjusting and such. Also 22lbs almost for a rotor?

Are adams rotors light weight? I have the dealership replacing my 2 fronts because one may have warped. I may have them swap the pads at the same time I only had about 25k on them. Wonder how the rear pads and rotors wear compared to the front? I heard it is about 60/40 front to rear. How long would I have to wait to service the back? The dealership suggested doing them together but i am sure thats more of a money making scheme?

[cory_can]

I heard changing the rotors is plain and simple it is the pads that need adjusting and such. Also 22lbs almost for a rotor?

Are adams rotors light weight? I have the dealership replacing my 2 fronts because one may have warped. I may have them swap the pads at the same time I only had about 25k on them. Wonder how the rear pads and rotors wear compared to the front? I heard it is about 60/40 front to rear. How long would I have to wait to service the back? The dealership suggested doing them together but i am sure thats more of a money making scheme?

Yup, stock rotors certainly aren't light. Most people completely overlook (or under estimate) how reducing unsprung rotational weight can have tremendous advantages to acceleration, braking and handling. It's not always about needing more power...making better use of existing power is just as beneficial.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

You can visually see the wear on brake pads. The worst you have to do it pull a tire off. In the many various cars I've owned I noticed that I can go through 2 sets of front pads for 1 set of rear pads. I'm not sure about the braking bias on the B8 A4, but I would be surprised if the rears wore as fast as the fronts.

[Kay15]

Yea from what I have taken it sounds about right. I also heard you can go through about 2 sets of pads on the front on a pair of Rotors.
I have Audi replacing my Rotors for me because one was warped so I think I may just swap the pads as well and wait to do the front and rears together in another 40kms or so, but only if I can get confirmation that the backs will last as long. I am not worried about the Rotors as I am the pads.

[Kay15]

^^ Okay so how many 100's more are these LW rotors? I would love to ditch 30lbs all around if not more. I am already thinking about ditcihng the spare tire, why not I pay for CAA and if I got a flat i will use what I pay for.

[cory_can]

^^ Okay so how many 100's more are these LW rotors? I would love to ditch 30lbs all around if not more. I am already thinking about ditcihng the spare tire, why not I pay for CAA and if I got a flat i will use what I pay for.

I've seen sets of LW 2-piece front rotors for B6/B7's in the 500-600 range but I'm still searching for LW 2-piece units for the B8.

[B_Boy]

i wonder when the actually DIY will start...

[cory_can]

i wonder when the actually DIY will start...

whenever you start I guess

...had to.

[eaniemeanie]

i wonder when the actually DIY will start...

HEY! I work for a living. And to tell you the truth, the light hasn't gone on yet and I haven't checked the wear since the last time I looked. I have about 1000 miles to drive next Friday and was thinking if the breaks haven't worn out too much in the last 1000 I drove, I might wait till next week-end. OR depending on the check tomorrow, I'll be doing it this week end!!!!! you sound like my kids.

[B_Boy]

HEY! I work for a living. And to tell you the truth, the light hasn't gone on yet and I haven't checked the wear since the last time I looked. I have about 1000 miles to drive next Friday and was thinking if the breaks haven't worn out too much in the last 1000 I drove, I might wait till next week-end. OR depending on the check tomorrow, I'll be doing it this week end!!!!! you sound like my kids.

hahaha i hear ya! sorry mom/dad......are we there yet? are we there yet? i wont ask again....are we there yet? :)

[Kay15]

Are the brakes there yet??

:)


I want to see how to swap the pads, I dont feel like paying 400 for someone to put somthing that cost me 300 in :).

[Kay15]

Yet? :P ahah

[eaniemeanie]

Yup done! I'll post pics and a little write up later. I'm making lunch and having a beer for my reward. Then the kids want me to take them to the dirt trails down the road to ride their bikes.

FYI piece of cake!

[eaniemeanie]

[cory_can]

sweet Estwing......classic....I have a couple of them.

[eaniemeanie]

sweet Estwing......classic....I have a couple of them.

Yeah nice tools, thanks! That one is about 7 years old. I use it out in the field and when working in the mines. Great tool, pretty darn good at breaking rotors free too! Note the marks on the rotor... I don't recommend metal on metal impacts but i was wearing safety glasses and wasn't hitting an edge or using a splintered hammer.

I remember working nights as a supervisor many moons ago and a mechanic was hammering out a pin on a 992G Cat loader. The pin fragmented and a piece the size of your fingernail broke off, went through his coat and coveralls and ended up in his gut about a half an inch deep inside. They medivaced him out because they didn't know how deep it went!

[cory_can]

Yeah nice tools, thanks! That one is about 7 years old. I use it out in the field and when working in the mines. Great tool, pretty darn good at breaking rotors free too! Note the marks on the rotor... I don't recommend metal on metal impacts but i was wearing safety glasses and wasn't hitting an edge or using a splintered hammer.

I remember working nights as a supervisor many moons ago and a mechanic was hammering out a pin on a 992G Cat loader. The pin fragmented and a pice the size of your fingernail broke off, went through his coat and coveralls and ended up in his gut about a half an inch deep inside. They medivaced him out because they didn't know how deep it went!

7 years....almost brand new :) One of mine was given to me by my father and its probably 40+ years old, leather handle is in perfect condition.....and still the first hammer I pull out.