Originally Posted by
blmlozz
car has 103k on it and i'm going to replace all the camshaft seals while i have the car apart doing tb and stuff, since this involves removing the sproket, besides making timing marks, anyone have any other suggestions to prevent the cam from moving?
Pull the valve covers off and set the engine to TDC for cyl#1.
In that position, the driver side exhaust cam keyway should be inline with the arrow on the bearing cap closest to the inter-cam chain.
The passenger side exhaust cam keyway should also be inline with the arrow on the bearing cap closest to the inter-cam chain. I forget if this chain is up front on the passenger side and out back on the driver side (that is how it is on a 2.8L).
Take timing belt off
Take exhaust cam timing belt gears off.
Loosen up bearing cap closest to cam seal
Remove cam seal and put new seals in. Retorque bearing cap to proper spec (10Nm?).
Reinstall cam timing belt gears.
Replace water pump and timing belt eccentric pulley and gas tensioner.
Reassemble timing belt and time the engine.
When reassembling the timing belt make sure the exhaust cams on either head are in-line with the arrow in the bearing cap. that denotes TDC cyl#1 for the heads. Make sure the crank is set to TDC cyl#1 and set tension on the timing belt. The engine is now in 'time'.
You don't need that cam lock bar if the valve covers are off and you're checking TDC on the heads via the cam keyway and arrow in bearing cap. I just did this including the cam tensioner seals on a B5 2.8L without the cam lock bar and crank lock pin. Its not that hard if you know what you are doing. My friend's 2.8L fired right up and runs solid.
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