In - Line Check Valves

[NyteEscape]

i had engine stuttering issues and the sort then i noticed this. replaced #1 but no change. then i realized my jet suction pump was broken, replaced that and i was good to go. not sure if #1 made a difference since the fix came after.

[Staz]

doing the delete almost done with it but have no clue where that line leads to

runs under the ps pump and into the fender ??

[old guy]

It originated from underneath the TB. One leg goes under the fender and ultimately to the LDP (leak detection pump) and the other leg went around the back of the block and connected to the N80 evap control valve. Be prepared to get CEL's for several different evap codes.

[Staz]

LDP is in the fender ? its ok to remove ?

[old guy]

LDP is in the fender ? its ok to remove ?

The LDP is located underneath the drivers side rear wheel liner. There is a hard plastic line that runs under the fender, down to the floor pan and all the way to the back of the car.
Sure you can remove it but as previously stated you will probably get several different evap codes that aren't going to go away. You might also want to think about what you are going to do about the hydrocarbon fumes emitting from your gas tank.

There is a second line that also runs under the front fender. That one goes to the vacuum reservoir.

[Staz]

ok ill post this in here as well to see if anybody else can help diagnose (thanks oldguy, eerie, dan and diagnosticator)

so i started doing the evap / sai delete .. removed everything ..
all check valves, ran a check valve from the brake booster to the intake mani just to play it safe

removed the line that runs alongside the fuel line (to the charcoal canister) havent removed actual canister yet ..

now this pic that i uploaded


those lines lead to nowhere because everything was removed . (i dont know why nobody mentions them)
so i followed them to underneath the drivers side fender and they led into a tank which when i googled the part # it came up with vacuum tank .. those were the only 2 lines that led to it so i removed it since they were disconnected from everything else . and one of those lines led all the way back to the rear fender but i couldnt see exactly where it went so i cut it and tucked it ..

everything was fine, put everything back together .. i had ordered mk6 coilpacks and spacers installed them .. go to start up and im getting a crazy rough idle .. unplugged coilpacks and the 2nd one doesnt make a difference when unplugged ? same thing happened when i had the original coilpacks, the 2nd one was "bad" thats why i replaced them all .. sparkplugs too ! what would cause just the 2nd cylinder not to work ????

and while underneath the drivers side fender i noticed ..



those are directly behind the front wheel on the drivers side

ill post it here but if its the wrong place ill delete it later on after work

[walky_talky20]

You may have a broken wire in the coil pack harness that is affecting cylinder 2 only. You would want to remove the coil pack from the cylinder and check for spark directly across the valve cover. Then swap it with a known working coil pack (check it on a different plug first to verify) and check again. Still no joy, then you can peel back the boot on the connector to see if the problem is right there. It is quite possible the wire is broken further upstream, though. You could test for power and ground at that coil pack connector to verify which wire is giving the problem (could also be the trigger wire) if you wanted to attempt to just repair the 1 broken wire. Most people opt to replace the entire harness. The most cost effective replacement is the OEM Jetta 1.8T repair harness:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...arness/ES7679/

[ntulsian]

I've replaced the damaged (melted) value with a generic one from Advanced Auto ($4.99) with some tubing to adapt to the correct size.
Reset the CEL and will know in a few days of driving if the CEL comes back again or not.
The other valves don't look damaged, so I'll leave them alone for now.

[daverdfw]

in the picture my #3 is broken, i cant tell if there is a hole in it or not yet, but i am throwing a Lean code, do i have to replace it with a check valve or can i just put in a fitting to replace it? also its a pain in the ass to get to and there is not much room for the clap to go on. Any advice from someone that has done this one would be appreciated, thanks!

[hcfaust]

So what you are saying is I can remove the entire vacuum assembly from my audi without throwing a trouble code? I live in Texas and all they really do is look at the dash for that stupid light.

[milan2k13]

Five of those a regular check valves. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...lves/ES259630/

And one is a crank case vent valve, it looks like a regular check valve, but its more expensive http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...ves/ES1876571/

Question is, which one of those that are numbered 1-6 is this expensive crank case vent valve?

[old guy]

Question is, which one of those that are numbered 1-6 is this expensive crank case vent valve?

"Expensive" one for $12.50 shipped: Clicky click

[milan2k13]

"Expensive" one for $12.50 shipped: Clicky click

Awesome find man!! Sure beats spending $50 for it.
Did you find a place for cheaper check valves, Ecs has the mtm for 8ish.. And I don't want to use the cheap USP plastics.

[milan2k13]

Actually found some by MTC for cheaper then on ecs website. https://importecautoparts.com/parts/...05%20291%20K/3

[vtraudt]

Nothing in the PCV system is connected to the ECU. Remove all the crank vent shit under the intake manifold as well as its connection to the intake manifold. Run a 1" hose from the crank breather (on top of the oil filter housing) up to the valve cover breather, T it to another 1" line which you can either dump under the car (which I do) or connect it to a catch can, then a line from the catch can to the TIP, your choice. I prefer to have absolutely zero oil crap going into my motor so I just have the 1" stainless hose you see in my pic running down below to tranny to vent any excess pressure or oil residue

Don't see the 1" stainless hose to tranny. Can someone point out?

[vtraudt]

If you are not familiar with brake boosting, then you do not need to worry about it!

IF you were to race from a roll and keeping a steady speed of, say, 40mph, you engine is under vacuum...even if you are at 4-5K RPM. And when you give it WOT, it takes a little bit of time to build full boost (and could cost you the race). So what brake boosting is, it is when you press the brakes but alo give the car full throttle, and when it is time to go (3 honks) you are at full boost, due to you pressing the brakes and there being a load on the engine. So when it is time to go, there is no lag in boost, you just take off

Furthermore, you cannot really do this in our cars due to, I would assume, our DBW (drive-by-wire) system. It will just close the throttle plate and the car will lose power all together. Granted it doesnt do this automatically, after about 3-4 seconds the car cuts the power.

To avoid losing boost (or not having boost) at take off and during upshifts (in both cases, the engine does not see load, turbo not building boost), we modify the tune with "launch control" and "no lift shift":

Launch: clutch pressed, 1st gear engaged, gas peddle floored. Engine revs to designated RPM. Extra fuel (and exhaust volume) spool turbo and builds boost. Take off with boost already on tap

Shift: keep gas peddle pressed down all the way. When upshift is due, press clutch (keep gas peddle down), shift, engage clutch. Turbo remains spooled up by using extra fuel (similar to launch).

[ziggyastro]

Do you have smog requirements back east?

[P.la4]

What if I ran the lines from the crank breather to valve breather install the metering device than to the pump

[mdh]

Has anyone tried running some of these lines through a vacuum block to tidy it up instead of just taking it all lut? Just curious...

[Euston]

Hey A4ringedONE8T, Does the offer still stand?

I'm in Fort Lauderdale with a 2003 A4 B6 Avant 1.8T and I've just thrown the P0442 code. I'll be in Fort Myers on the 29th of October 2016. I can come a day early if you're in? or two days early?
And I got a DSLR...

[Seerlah]

Hi there, you must be new to forum boards and how they work?



Sorry...too hard to resist. Pardon if you feel disrespected, could not let the joke pass.

[Seerlah]

For you non-cat lovers...

[old guy]

According to Trump isn't that just another type of cat?

[Seerlah]

Can't Stump the Trump!

[Jgreenway]

I am wondering what to do with the vacuum lines under the intake manifold that are connected to the motor?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Audizine mobile app

[Mrcastroinla]

Hi is thr anyway u can help me delete all vacuum lines....i connot find anywhere from start to finish..