B7 Key Fob for B6 DIY

[A41.8TB6]

Understood it needs to be the correct frequency. And yes, I've already updated to the later BB CCM.

Some of the FOBs I see for sale LOOK 100% correct (just like the B7 FOB) but don't mention the MYT4073A frequency. I guess I should verify that before purchasing. But could a FOB have some other FCC ID and still be the correct frequency?

Thats is the only known model that should work. The A6 one is similar but doesn't work.

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[fR3ZNO]

Thats is the only known model that should work. The A6 one is similar but doesn't work.

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Yep, I made this mistake when I did the B7 fob upgrade too. I bought a A6 fob thinking it was similar. But on the A6 the transponder is built into the board itself IIRC and does not have a separate transponder pill/chip like the B7 does.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Yep, I made this mistake when I did the B7 fob upgrade too. I bought a A6 fob thinking it was similar. But on the A6 the transponder is built into the board itself IIRC and does not have a separate transponder pill/chip like the B7 does.

Okay, thanks. That clarifies things for me. I assume then that any that indicate a FCC ID IYZ3314 won't work. I'm finding a bunch of those.

Anyone have any luck with new ones as linked below or am I better off with used.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-Audi-A4....c100005.m1851

[A41.8TB6]

Okay, thanks. That clarifies things for me. I assume then that any that indicate a FCC ID IYZ3314 won't work. I'm finding a bunch of those.

Anyone have any luck with new ones as linked below or am I better off with used.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-Audi-A4....c100005.m1851

What I did couple of years ago is find a keyfob that works then bought a housing to replace it if you care about aesthetic. But sometimes u will get lucky someone will have like a barely used one. It just takes time..

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[egovreau]

The guy I bought his Recaro seats from included a B7 key for the rear seat latch. I lucked out and it's the correct FCC ID, but the battery cover is missing. Efforts to find only the cover have been unsuccessful thus far. I suppose I could buy one with an incompatible FCC ID, but that seems excessive.

Win some, lose some.

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[DPDISXR4Ti]

Just got two used B7 FOB's from yourkeylessremote.com for a short amount of $$. A got a couple FOBs that had issues of some sort, but they still came with new batteries and un-cut keys. I've already paired them with my previously upgraded "BB" CCM using VCDS. They were locking and unlocking doors in no time. Bonus from these guys is that you get a free lost key return service tag that you can attach to the FOB.

I've got two physical keys coming from keysinthepost.com. My brief local search found that anyone local would be much more expensive than getting the keys cut and shipped from the UK. I'll have two spare virgin B7 keys should I ever find someone local who isn't so proud of their work. I'm assuming that an old-school key cutter can not be used, yes?

Final step will be programming the Immobilizer. I'll wait to get the newly cut keys installed in the FOBs before doing that.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Making progress. Got my two physical keys from the UK and installed them. Already had a couple virgin ID48 chips - just installed those in the B7 FOBs.

IMPORTANT NOTE!!! The Torx heads on the screws are T-6 and T5.5. NOT T-5!!! Fortunately my Torx bit set included the T-5.5 so I was able to continue. Can't believe that never came up in this thread. Or possibly it did - I can't say I read all 15 pages - lots of newby-noise posts. ;)

Just need to program the ID48 chips that I just now installed in the B7 FOBs. I've read that there is a maximum number of chips that can be programmed - anyone know what that number is? I'm guessing that this will be numbers 6 and 7 for this car.

[rollerton]

Just need to program the ID48 chips that I just now installed in the B7 FOBs. I've read that there is a maximum number of chips that can be programmed - anyone know what that number is? I'm guessing that this will be numbers 6 and 7 for this car.

I don't think there is a maximum number of RFID chips that can be matched- but if there is, it's likely 4. Since every time you match a SINGLE new key to the Immobilizer, it erases ALL the keys and you do in fact have to re-program even the keys that were working before, if you want them to work again.
There IS a max number of 'remotes' , just for lock/unlock - and it is four I believe. You can delete some, or simply overwrite them in the adaptations when you're programming the 'remote'.

[imnuts]

The max number of keys you can pair is 4 at any one time I believe. I have 5 total and only 4 are setup to start the car as I couldn't program the last one. Either way, why do you want more keys paired? It's just more opportunity for a key to be lost or stolen and there car to go with it.

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[DPDISXR4Ti]

The max number of keys you can pair is 4 at any one time I believe. I have 5 total and only 4 are setup to start the car as I couldn't program the last one. Either way, why do you want more keys paired? It's just more opportunity for a key to be lost or stolen and there car to go with it.

Four is what I will have; the two new B7 FOBs, a B6 FOB, and a plastic emergency key. Over the course of the car's life, 3 have gone missing/lost/stolen. I wasn't sure if somehow those were accounted for. Sounds like no.

More out of curiosity, I can't quite get my head around the existing keys being re-programmed when one or more are paired, but yet the ID48 chip is only supposed to be a write-once device. I've done it before and don't have an issue with the actual steps. Just trying to understand better what's going on.

[rollerton]

More out of curiosity, I can't quite get my head around the existing keys being re-programmed when one or more are paired, but yet the ID48 chip is only supposed to be a write-once device. I've done it before and don't have an issue with the actual steps. Just trying to understand better what's going on.

The RFID chips can be 're'- programmed to any Immobilizer over and over, but only that particular Immo ID. Once the chip is paired it becomes 'bit-locked' . AFAIK about the way these work is that when the RFID chip is brought close to the pickup coil a tiny current is induced and it emits a small frequency signal. I think the signal oscillates or varies until the RFID chip is paired, at which point it's locked to a specific signal that the pickup coil recognizes as valid.
No doubt there's way more technical stuff that makes it happen, but ...that's more or less how it works I think.

[egovreau]

Four is what I will have; the two new B7 FOBs, a B6 FOB, and a plastic emergency key. Over the course of the car's life, 3 have gone missing/lost/stolen. I wasn't sure if somehow those were accounted for. Sounds like no.

More out of curiosity, I can't quite get my head around the existing keys being re-programmed when one or more are paired, but yet the ID48 chip is only supposed to be a write-once device. I've done it before and don't have an issue with the actual steps. Just trying to understand better what's going on.

Thank you! I have often thought this for a while now. The myth has always been that you can only pair keys to the car it was originally programmed to (Immo side, not door lock remote). When you swap an instrument cluster, you have to reprogram the immobilizer, but how would the car know they are in fact the keys belong to that car. Short answer, it won't.

@rollerton the pickup coil is nothing more than a ceramic ring with an antenna wire running through it. It's not going to possess the logic to process whether or not the RFID has been paired to a similar car. I think only enough current passes through the pick up coil to activate the RFID, but not enough to 'write' to it.

I'll be testing out the theory later today when I attempt to pair a B7 key to my B6 (B7 is Immo IV, B6 is Immo III) that is completely intact. I'm just going to move the key blade over.

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[DPDISXR4Ti]

Just got my new FOBs Immo-programmed. It was no walk in the park as apparently one of my China-ID48 chips was defective. Fortunately I bought three, and I'm now an expert at B7 FOB disassembly, so 5 minutes later I had a new chip swapped in. This time, VCDS took all four and had them paired.

One footnote.... As you swap each of the keys in and out of the ignition VCDS loses the connection and informs you accordingly. I initially thought this was my problem, but apparently not. That said, I think you DO need to get the keys swapped out within a couple seconds.

Hopefully I'm done with this now that I have 4 keys and my tired old B6 FOB can be relegated to permanent emergency backup status.

[imnuts]

You have 5-10 seconds of I remember correctly to put the next key in before the process resets. It is outlined in the Ross Tech Wiki if you're interested.

My understanding, similar to above, is that the immobilizer chips are write once, then read only. Something is saved to them unique to your car, and they can't be overwritten. They can be paired countless times after that to the same car, but not to a different vehicle. The information in the cluster, ECU and key all have to match. I think that when you pair a new cluster or ECU, that code is copied from one place to the other, so that all are in sync again.

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[DPDISXR4Ti]

You have 5-10 seconds of I remember correctly to put the next key in before the process resets. It is outlined in the Ross Tech Wiki if you're interested.

I used the Ross Tech video as a guide. He really flies through the steps and doesn't mention anything at all about how much time you have between keys. I just made sure I had all the keys lined up and ready to go. It all worked out, but I practiced the remove & replace key step a few times, making sure I knew the proper orientation so that I could almost do it blind-folded.

[Elserch]

how exactly how to remove the light gray cover where the transponder chip is hiding on the key fob?
just using the Pick tool? but where area i need to apply the force?
I am afraid to break it, those transponder chips are a royal pain to move over and often break when removing as they are sometime pretty well glued in.

Who know what is the type of the immobilizer chip for A4, B7 2.0T?

[Elserch]

Guys, who know what is the type of the immobilizer chip for A4, B7 2.0T?

[A41.8TB6]

how exactly how to remove the light gray cover where the transponder chip is hiding on the key fob?
just using the Pick tool? but where area i need to apply the force?
I am afraid to break it, those transponder chips are a royal pain to move over and often break when removing as they are sometime pretty well glued in.

Who know what is the type of the immobilizer chip for A4, B7 2.0T?

Use acetone to remove it quickly...

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[ApexIt]

So I recently paired a B7 key to my car. It's the correct part number and FCC ID. Got a new ID48 chip, paired it to the car without any issues and the car starts. Only issue is that the buttons on the fob dont lock/unlock the doors nor does the trunk pop open. I see the red led light up when I press a button so I assume the fob is registering the clicks, but nothing happens on the car. Any ideas on why this may be?

[MikeWire]

So I recently paired a B7 key to my car. It's the correct part number and FCC ID. Got a new ID48 chip, paired it to the car without any issues and the car starts. Only issue is that the buttons on the fob dont lock/unlock the doors nor does the trunk pop open. I see the red led light up when I press a button so I assume the fob is registering the clicks, but nothing happens on the car. Any ideas on why this may be?

Immo is all done, so you just need program the keyless remote to the car...there's a couple of ways but I use VCDS...and Bob's your uncle.

[egovreau]

This ^^^

There are two parts to the fob and need to be coded separately.

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[ApexIt]

Thanks for the tip guys, that did it!

I coded a key last year as well and didnt remember having to do these steps, so that threw me off. For any others who are interested, here are the steps I used:

1. Press and hold the unlock key on a remote
2. Insert key in ignition and turn to on (while still holding unlock)
3. Hold unlock while in the on position for 2 seconds
4. Turn key to off, remove from ignition and release button.

[Mikeysentra]

So couple questions here, I want to do the b7 key on my 04 a4. My “factory” key gives me the 8Z0 837 231 F part number and fcc of MYT8Z0837231. But I have CCM part number 8E0 959 433 BB so do I need a 433 MHz or 315 MHz? If I read rite the 433 is the MHz if that’s the case someone swapped cases and I really do have a 433 remotes. Currently I have 3 b6 remotes only 1 works and the other 2 despite having all the same pertinent info adapted fine, vagcom showed each remote recognized but they won’t sync to the car. I just want to make sure what remote I need before I purchase all 4 and send back what I don’t use.

[MikeWire]

So couple questions here, I want to do the b7 key on my 04 a4. My “factory” key gives me the 8Z0 837 231 F part number and fcc of MYT8Z0837231. But I have CCM part number 8E0 959 433 BB so do I need a 433 MHz or 315 MHz? If I read rite the 433 is the MHz if that’s the case someone swapped cases and I really do have a 433 remotes. Currently I have 3 b6 remotes only 1 works and the other 2 despite having all the same pertinent info adapted fine, vagcom showed each remote recognized but they won’t sync to the car. I just want to make sure what remote I need before I purchase all 4 and send back what I don’t use.

315Mhz will apply for anything in the USA. 433 is Europe.

It's been a minute since I was on AZ, but this link here may help:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-compatibility

I also went down this road, and this is my thread:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...k-with-your-B6

[EuroxS4]

So I recently paired a B7 key to my car. It's the correct part number and FCC ID. Got a new ID48 chip, paired it to the car without any issues and the car starts. Only issue is that the buttons on the fob dont lock/unlock the doors nor does the trunk pop open. I see the red led light up when I press a button so I assume the fob is registering the clicks, but nothing happens on the car. Any ideas on why this may be?

There's only 2 part numbers that work with these cars 220R and a 220L IIRC. I never had any luck with the L. If your key part number start with 4F0 it will never work give up. Needs to be 8E0. I have done this swap for many many people. If you had the correct key its not an issue. If you have a 2002 a4 then you need to swap in a CCM from a 03 in order for this to work.