DIY: Motor work, Timing tensioner or anything with the motor and front end

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Originally Posted by Charles.waite

Yea and if it’s non-functional that could be triggering the over-advanced code too.

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Yes, I'm thinking that too. I'm however not sure whether the variable valve timing (VVT) goes full-advanced or full-retarded (TM) by default... just don't know.

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Originally Posted by Charles.waite

Full disclosure, I neglected to connect the drivers side crash sensor on the bumper (derp) and I have an open circuit code for that which is triggering airbag warnings and an ebrake fault. Hopefully this weekend I can get that sorted and the wife can stop complaining about the beeping and warning lights.

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I had one of these fail intermittently somewhere in the interior of my B5 A4. It would work properly 99% of the time, and then randomly disconnect repeatedly and cause the instrument cluster to go nuts and the little buzzer to go off like something awful.
The quote I got from an independent to fix it was $1,700, so I went ahead and didn't do that. The car was worth probably $3,000 at that point.

Drove me nuts to the point where I disassembled the instrument cluster, found the LEDs for the airbag trigger, covered them with electrical tape and ripped out the buzzer (bottom left of the bottom photo).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RV...w2048-h1536-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wc...=w1016-h762-no

No more random flashing and buzzing. Had the added benefit that my car could no longer buzz at me for any reason, which was oh-so nice, but did result on me leaving my lights on once or twice a year. :-)

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Originally Posted by blgilles

Exactly. So to me this seems the actuator for variable valve timing isn’t working. The open circuit code makes me thing it’s not plugged in, the cable is severed, or it’s internally damaged (say open-circuit in the actuator itself).

Have you checked the actuator electrical connection? It’s on the front, right of the motor (when looking at the car from the front).

EDIT: that guy, top middle of this photo.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mC...=w1016-h762-no
EDIT again, here's a better view:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g4...w1430-h1906-no

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That was my first thought when I saw the open circuit. I did have the engine and trans out to do a clutch(how this whole project started 3 months ago...) so I triple checked all the connections however I didn't test anything with a multimeter. Could possibly be a ground too I guess. I'll look it all over again later.

Been doing tons of searching and ran across some people who had these codes due to a bad injector or coilpack too. Had the intake off to do carbon cleaning so there are a ton of things that could be causing this I need to chase down

Interesting. I wouldn't expect these as a result of a bad injector/coilpack.

Yea I suppose if there’s a bad ground in the wiring it could cascade a number of errors. But that’s still a wiring issue not strictly a coil pack issue.

Still, open circuit almost always means you forgot to plug something in. Or that a wire got stretched and disconnected.

Dont think it gets easier with 8.5 either. They even took the screws away. I broke 3. Found out though you can push the pin right through. If you can find the pin after you can reuse it.



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Hey, this thread will be a reference for my upcoming timing chain tensioner job. Thanks a bunch for those who are putting the info up.

I have a question (and kept trying to search not only here, but throughout the web): I'm in Germany, I have a CDN 2.0 tfsi with an Stronic A4Q Avant. I have the timing chain job coming up, even though the chain is in great shape, but I want to change the tensioner, so will be pulling everything. My oil pan is leaking a bit again, but not much, but will eventually get worse. Also I would like to change the pistons.

Basically, is there anywhere online that has a good explanation of the removal of the engine and if it can be done without a lift to get it unhooked from the transmission? I'm thinking of doing a quick and dirty, if at all possible, meaning to lock the cams, not remove the head, and just throw the pistons and rods in, kind of like what one would do if it was possible to change the parts in-car.

While I'm at it, would change out the rear main.

I've tried German sites, but most people just say "no, you can't do that, take it to a shop, that's illegal to work on your own car" and other similar cultural nonsense.

I doubt there’s going to be an engine removal DIY.

Not sure what your work space is like but you might be able to get away with leaving the engine in and dropping the trans if all you need access to is the rear main seal.

I’m about to pull my engine soon, but I’ve never done it before. As I understand you just need to disconnect the ecu, all the fuel and coolant lines (might as well drain the oil too) and make sure all the wiring is disconnected from the engine. Then remove driveshafts and axles or the dozen or so bolts holding the trans to the engine depending on it you want to leave the trans connected to the engine or leave it in the car.

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Originally Posted by Kolbenringe

Hey, this thread will be a reference for my upcoming timing chain tensioner job. Thanks a bunch for those who are putting the info up.

I have a question (and kept trying to search not only here, but throughout the web): I'm in Germany, I have a CDN 2.0 tfsi with an Stronic A4Q Avant. I have the timing chain job coming up, even though the chain is in great shape, but I want to change the tensioner, so will be pulling everything. My oil pan is leaking a bit again, but not much, but will eventually get worse. Also I would like to change the pistons.

Basically, is there anywhere online that has a good explanation of the removal of the engine and if it can be done without a lift to get it unhooked from the transmission? I'm thinking of doing a quick and dirty, if at all possible, meaning to lock the cams, not remove the head, and just throw the pistons and rods in, kind of like what one would do if it was possible to change the parts in-car.

While I'm at it, would change out the rear main.

I've tried German sites, but most people just say "no, you can't do that, take it to a shop, that's illegal to work on your own car" and other similar cultural nonsense.

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go on line there are time lapse videos of this . The quick and dirty IS to remove the head ( with turbo and intake and cams all still in place ) .
to do it any other way you are completely removing crank shaft and that has its own share of headaches.
I'm about to do it too and it can be done on jack stands, although not ideal for sure.

You don’t have to remove the crank to do pistons, at least not on older 1.8t/2.0t engines. You remove the head, drop the pan, then unbolt the rod caps and pull the piston and rod out the top. I’m re-ringing my pistons and that’s what I plan on doing. I have a spare engine on a stand so I’ll have it out to rebuild it then just swap with my existing engine when it’s ready to go.

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Originally Posted by Charles.waite

You don’t have to remove the crank to do pistons, at least not on older 1.8t/2.0t engines. You remove the head, drop the pan, then unbolt the rod caps and pull the piston and rod out the top. I’m re-ringing my pistons and that’s what I plan on doing. I have a spare engine on a stand so I’ll have it out to rebuild it then just swap with my existing engine when it’s ready to go.

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This doesn't apply to the CDN/CDNC EA888 motors like what I have. There's an upper oil pan in the way and the only way to remove it is to pull the engine and transmission apart to get the two lower bolts off the rear main seal plate. The point is I want to minimize work and avoid pulling the head. It's a low-mileage engine. I'm sure the procedure is outlined in Bentley, but we don't have them here. We just have elementary books similar to Chiltons. The DIY culture here is very limited.

This is a well-known procedure, Audi has already confirmed the engine needs to be pulled and there are actually timelapse videos of such on Youtube, but no close-up specifics. If I pull the transmission, sure, it can be done in-car, but it's considered something that adds quite a bit of labor, plus it's much easier to seal the oil pan when the engine is out and change the timing set and the cam bridge, which I was planning on doing this weekend anyhow.

There might be a procedure in ELSAWIN I could dig up. They often have stuff like that and you can save it in PDF format.

I can see what I can find. I might need some specific info on your car for elsawin to find the correct car configuration though so if you want to shoot me a PM I can probably get it figured out.

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Originally Posted by Charles.waite

There might be a procedure in ELSAWIN I could dig up. They often have stuff like that and you can save it in PDF format.

I can see what I can find. I might need some specific info on your car for elsawin to find the correct car configuration though so if you want to shoot me a PM I can probably get it figured out.

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That would be great. What I am guessing is thst without a ton of clearance under the car, the transmission to flywheel bolts will be tough to pull. If I see otherwise, then I will rent a storage unit, a hoist, and an engine stand and do the job over a week or so.

Labor costs are extremely high, parts costs extremely high, and Audi doesn't fully recognize this as an issue. Plus even though my car was serviced and sold by audi as a certified, one service was performed by a non-contracted workshop, so thry keep hinging on that point for everything, even when there's no relevance.

When I did my clutch on my b6 I got some tall jack stands and was able to drop the trans and change the clutch. Unless Audi has significantly changed how they mate their engines and transmissions, I would expect unbolting the trans is very much doable with the drivetrain in the car but I wouldn’t stake my life on it.

I’ll see if I can pull up a procedure for engine removal for you. I may need a VIN but i might just need year, model and engine size. If you don’t mind posting that info that would be helpful. Obviously don’t post your VIN but I might need that, and you can shoot that through PM if you’re okay with that. I’m a trustworthy person.

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Originally Posted by Charles.waite

When I did my clutch on my b6 I got some tall jack stands and was able to drop the trans and change the clutch. Unless Audi has significantly changed how they mate their engines and transmissions, I would expect unbolting the trans is very much doable with the drivetrain in the car but I wouldn’t stake my life on it.

I’ll see if I can pull up a procedure for engine removal for you. I may need a VIN but i might just need year, model and engine size. If you don’t mind posting that info that would be helpful. Obviously don’t post your VIN but I might need that, and you can shoot that through PM if you’re okay with that. I’m a trustworthy person.

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Build year is 2010 (BJ 2010) A4 Avant Quattro 2.0 tfsi 155kw/211ps Stronic. See if you can get something going with that, won't be near the car for a couple of days.

TIA

Just did mine on 2010 avant. BIG THANKS TO OP!!

Now I know why my mechanic won't do jobs that involve service position, removing the front was the worst part. I was able to remove fromt without talking wheels off. Once you peel back the bumper from the side, and like 2 screws f
r the liner

Won't let me edit. Once two screws are off the liner you can just bend it back to get at the odd 10mms. For the front, you can def leave the AC and intercooler on the radiator and hang the whole thing up. I have overheard supports and used nylon cam buckle straps to support the weight. I left AC lines connected. Pulled it about 60 degrees from the engine and had plenty of room. I have atf lines. Plugged them with soft ear plugs and rubberbanded a balloon over each one to keep fluid losses low. I did lose a little. No mark on my lower TC cover to line with harm balancer so got to tdc with that off. Spun it FOREVER to get there and crank + both cams all off 2 links. As I cranked it i could see the old tensioner backing in and the chain jumping. It's a wonder my chain was off yet still timed. I did have trouble at high rpm a few weeks ago on the highway which spurred the immediacy of the repair. I knew I was good bc the balancer chains were spot on. I used the schwaben kit from ecs and it was awesome. If anyone wants to buy a used once version, hit me up. I got the lawsuit letter but I am already at 110k so SOL. Once cams were locked I had a tough time getting the new chain on until I realized the old one was stretched, so I removed the exhaust locking pin and nudged it a half tooth over to accommodate the closer links. I also used permatex right stuff on the lower cover. Used it before for valve cover and no leaks. In fact, it can seal itself in the bottle, this job was with a 1 yo tube ( I tested see first). after putting the @#$_+$+!!! Front end back on the car ran like a dream. I also did the serp, pulley and tensioner while I was in there no brainer for 100 bucks. Got everything from ecs. Oh, and my screen on the cam bridge was blown out. it was stuck I'm the galley with a piece of its frame, thankfully I was able to remove it with a strong magnet. If I ever do this again I am outsourcing the bumper removal and only doing the chains. Took about 15 hours, 3 of which were for a stripped tc cover screw, and two for mixing up front end screws. The part with the chain was a piece of cake besides all the cranking.

EDIT: This: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91knYL1hEeU

I had a hell of a time getting my lower radiator hose on, and it turns out I was slowly leaking. Evidently the o ring inside gets jammed up and the hose won't go all the way back on. Drained the coolant off again into clean buckets, opened it up, wiped it out with a very tiny amount of WD40 on a rag, and it snapped back together perfectly with zero effort. Also, kegerator tubing fits the drain rather well.

I just took the engine out of my 8.5 this weekend. About 4 hours ti get the front end off. Next night about 4 more to extract the engine. It got hung up and had to use a pry bar to separate the two. But she came eventually. Attachment 93092


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I also used the Schwaben Timing tool kit from ECS. It’s great.

Also the pictures don’t do justice to how freaking beefy that crank holder is. Good lord!

If you need the Service Manual, PM me with your email and I'll put it in DropBox for ya!

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Originally Posted by Kolbenringe

Build year is 2010 (BJ 2010) A4 Avant Quattro 2.0 tfsi 155kw/211ps Stronic. See if you can get something going with that, won't be near the car for a couple of days.

TIA

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Oh crap I dropped the ball on that. You still need it?

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Originally Posted by Charles.waite

Oh crap I dropped the ball on that. You still need it?

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Any help is great, sure. I'm in the middle of swapping out my timing chains right now, since the tensioner is a ticking time bomb. The manual would be great even for that. Had to pause until I get a new oil chain rail. The replacement doesn't have a bolt and I dont want to break the old one that's nearly perfect to swap one over that might not even fit through the hole.

^ Put it in DropBox for ya!

The oil chain Tensioner seemed like a simple plastic rail with a simple wire spring. Also I don't think that the timing matters on the oil chaim bc it drives a separate pump. I did not even change mine. it would have been a lot more work to drop the pan for that. The problem part is that primary chain tensioner. Even if you *only* replaced that, while not ideal, you may not have issues for a long long time. My balance chain was perfectly taught and timed. Only the primary was jumping. The others are so short play might not ever be enough

Yea the oil pump doesn’t need to be in time so don’t worry about that.

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Originally Posted by A4 Centaur

^ Put it in DropBox for ya!

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Many thanks!

I just had my engine rebuilt, 1.8 TFSI CABD 2008. Careful with the aluminium screws that hold together the engine and transmission. They are so fragile! I had one break when putting everything back together

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Originally Posted by Icemix

I just had my engine rebuilt, 1.8 TFSI CABD 2008. Careful with the aluminium screws that hold together the engine and transmission. They are so fragile! I had one break when putting everything back together

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did you torque them ? aren't they TTY bolts ??? what torque did you use ?

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Originally Posted by Theiceman

did you torque them ? aren't they TTY bolts ??? what torque did you use ?

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I'm guessing they are TTY. Torque used was the one specified in elsawin. Thing is the engine was assembled before work and after work, when the mechanic had time, and since one day at 6 AM we realised that we haven't ordered new bolts, we reused the old ones.

Wait, those bolts can't be "aluminum". They have coatings on them, but aren't aluminum.

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Originally Posted by Kolbenringe

Wait, those bolts can't be "aluminum". They have coatings on them, but aren't aluminum.

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they aren't? I just assumed as much. they are unbelievably light

Can someone check? I can't reach in with a magnet until tomorrow.

Edit, double checked via etka and pretty much every bolt has a different part number. Thry are the silver coated steel bolts.

Here's an example part number n91129501

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Originally Posted by Icemix

they aren't? I just assumed as much. they are unbelievably light

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yeah no kidding hard to believe those things are steel, I would have thought aluminum or some very light aluminum alloy.

I'm in the middle of the timing chain and balance chain replacement, took the cam bridge off and only half the screen was in place and the other half is nowhere to be found. Someone had been in there before so I'm wondering if they got the screen at that time but don't know why they wouldn't have removed the rest of the screen at the same time. It's had the p0016 code for over 5000 miles and just recently was low on power and had the underboost code P0299, I don't think this car is worth tearing apart anymore to see if the screen is in there somewhere. If the screen had gotten into the intake cam timing actuator it would have different codes right?

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Thanks for this diy OP. Mine had timing jumped a little.... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1e7755d8af.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...07bafed832.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...08b160662b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9ffbd1dc56.jpg

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Originally Posted by LS1K5

I'm in the middle of the timing chain and balance chain replacement, took the cam bridge off and only half the screen was in place and the other half is nowhere to be found. Someone had been in there before so I'm wondering if they got the screen at that time but don't know why they wouldn't have removed the rest of the screen at the same time. It's had the p0016 code for over 5000 miles and just recently was low on power and had the underboost code P0299, I don't think this car is worth tearing apart anymore to see if the screen is in there somewhere. If the screen had gotten into the intake cam timing actuator it would have different codes right?

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My guess is that you will find the rest of the screen in the screen/restrictor on the vacuum pump. That is where I found the parts of the three screens I found blown out that weren't right at the cam bridge. I would recommend removing it and cleaning that screen if you find the screen parts missing. That screen/restrictor seems to get pretty full of debris in my experience, and it is what supplies the vacuum pump and HPFP with lubrication, so it is a good thing to have clear.

I have heard that the parts can also get stuck in the spool valve, or intake cam adjuster. The spool valve can be disassembled and cleaned easily, but the cam adjuster is not quite so easy.

I think most people don't bother looking for the parts if there are no symptoms, but I do.

Just my $.02. YMMV

Put new stuff in in proper location, and it worked. Also pics of stretched chain vs new chain. Original did was installed by Audi. Might help some onehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c381617614.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f44a51474a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dc9ac3bace.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...00465b1f27.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1f4e6eab76.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b33de26a00.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9c837a3336.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4b6923251c.jpg

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Thanks, the vacuum pump is leaking anyway so I might check that and replace the leaking cover seal. Thanks to the op for the great DIY post also!

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Oh no, all that work and you installed one of those Chinese reproduction parts kits. especially the tensioner. It's not worth it to go through all that work and install counterfeit/low quality Chinese reproductions in there from Ebay or wherever. It's been covered already regarding the pricing and that there have to be many corners cut. Not to mention, you didn't even get the updated main chain with it.

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Originally Posted by Kolbenringe

Oh no, all that work and you installed one of those Chinese reproduction parts kits. especially the tensioner. It's not worth it to go through all that work and install counterfeit/low quality Chinese reproductions in there from Ebay or wherever. It's been covered already regarding the pricing and that there have to be many corners cut. Not to mention, you didn't even get the updated main chain with it.

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With the timing looking like it jumped so much thought the motor was toast, so threw it in as a last hope try. Quality was good all plastic parts, chain was not the same quality as oem but still was good... will update if anything fails.

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So timing jumped again... will update with Chinese failed part..soon

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Originally Posted by qmulus

My guess is that you will find the rest of the screen in the screen/restrictor on the vacuum pump. That is where I found the parts of the three screens I found blown out that weren't right at the cam bridge. I would recommend removing it and cleaning that screen if you find the screen parts missing. That screen/restrictor seems to get pretty full of debris in my experience, and it is what supplies the vacuum pump and HPFP with lubrication, so it is a good thing to have clear.

I have heard that the parts can also get stuck in the spool valve, or intake cam adjuster. The spool valve can be disassembled and cleaned easily, but the cam adjuster is not quite so easy.

I think most people don't bother looking for the parts if there are no symptoms, but I do.

Just my $.02. YMMV

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Just found the rest of the screen in the far-left left or passenger side oil passage, that was a relief!

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