Diet A6 Drag Build "Ruby"

In 2023 I picked up a cheap 2012 3.0T A6 from down the street. Wife already named it Ruby. Had a cracked engine block from water/ice expansion. Broke the PCV as well. Drove it home with the throttle body unplugged... Little JB Weld on the block and a good used PCV swapped in, and she runs and holds temp.

I have since swapped the seats, HVAC Head unit, supercharger, driver fender, front bumper and the LED headlights to my daily 2013.

My "plan":
- 3.2 FSI block for the rebuild
- CTUB heads
- 84.5mm sleeves for 3.1T
- CTUB rods - re-bushed for 20mm pins
- CALA pistons
- CREC supercharger with CTUB innards.... no clutch, bigger coolers.
- Separated chilled water system
- CTUB ECU tune to be determined
- 14point7 SLC2 w/LSU 4.9 wideband
- Supplementary fueling ecu
- CREC Intake Manifolds with MPI
- TCU tune to be determined
- Bigger supercharger later, but already in hand.
- DI injectors to be determined
- MPI injectors to be determined
- Interior removal

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3.2 delivered
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It's cool to say I am crazy. I am. Also building 3 cars at once [drool]

Keep us posted, seems like it could be pretty cool?

why use a 3.2 block? any differece?

Port the heads and do headers!

Ha, I think it will be cool.

3.2 block was a cheap start. There is some work involved since this is a stroker motor compared to the stock 3.0t. 86.4mm vs 92.8 stroke. 3.2 has 154mm rods while the 3.0T has 153mm ones. 1mm bigger bores on the 3.2 as well.

Quick math says... 92.8 - 86.4 = 6.4mm / 2 = 3.2mm radius difference - 1mm rod difference = 2.2mm extra upward on the piston. We will see where this goes, but I am 100% using the 3.2 block.


I will swoop some heads or pull the ones from Ruby's current motor. Ported would be great.

I expect that ported heads will be very beneficial on these engines.

I got a pair of used S5 3.0T CGXC heads on the way. Ill port them [:D]

Got the rest of the bottom end pulled apart and inspected. Amazing shape for an '08 CALA 3.2 block with unknown miles. Also amazing how lightweight the bare block is.

Also gotta plop that 3.6 vr6 into my mk2 this week. Also torn on buying things... RS2 intake manifold as they are rarely for sale or block sleeves....

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Also need to get rid of this little turd high/low pressure oil solenoid.
https://hausofdub.com/g3/var/resizes...2810624-01.jpg

Heads arrived in good shape. Time to soak in some Oil-Eater. All new INA roller rocker lifters came in as well.

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too bad Audi does not make headers like the NA 20v anymore...
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Cool progress.

Do you plan on doing headers?

Thanks. Headers will happen. Will need to pick a set or build a set. [wrench]


Heads cleaned up nicely. Time to strip them down.
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There it is ... all done. 3.2T [>_<]

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[evilsmile]...I can dream right?
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Have you seen the TVS1900 offering from Merc Racing?

I have seen Merc's TVS1900, APR/Magnuson's TVS1740, and SRM's Twin Charger project. Done lots and lots of reading. Not gunna lie AudiC7Owners maybe me chuckle when they hit 28psi on back to back pulls. The point of the TVS1900 over the 1740 was for more cfm at lower boost. That alone should be more power. I imagine the heat from 28psi.

Also I am noticing how loose the factory valve stem seals are. I cannot image them being that worn... The S5 heads I picked up were replaced due to oil burning. Seems par for the course. I just rebuilt a 3.6 VR6 head and the seals are much tighter. Even the old 196k seals were tighter than these S5 heads.



Above is an Eaton M122 for a Cadilac STS-V. I do not plan on running it.... but it is super reminiscent of the big block supercharger look. I am looking for a Crec supercharger core to gut and compare against. I like the bigger IC cores of the Crec, but with the fixed nose/snout of a Ctub unit. Dump the extra rotating magnet mass. I suspect you could swap all the internals over. I want to squeeze what I can from stock parts before jumping to a larger charger. Just stroking a 3.0t is a big step.

I have not picked a tuner yet for this build. Probably after engine break in on a stock tune. I daily a United Motorsports tune.

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So if you want to run a CREC Supercharger and MPI fuel system, you will need at least need CREC heads. Remove/swap out exhaust side variable valve timing could be a thing. Supercharger mounting studs were moved forward about 1" to accommodate the 6 extra MPI injectors. I will not be using CREC parts...Unless someone has heads to donate.

Also appears there is an additional exhaust side oil cooling in the heads similar to the piston sprayer/jets. Not entirely sure as its missing from the Self Study Program 624.

ebay photos
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After some talking with machine shops and engine builders. I plan on re-bushing the 143x22mm 3.0T rods into 143x20mm rods in order to use the 3.2 85.5mm pistons. Once this is done, I will start assembling the block.

Also found out this car was tuned with an IE Stage 1. And I may be buying a D2 A8 for a summer cruiser.... [drive]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dspl1236

Also found out this car was tuned with an IE Stage 1.

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How did you figure that out? I have a suspicion that my 6 has a trans tune (will Manual Shift into 1st at any speed) but I can't confirm it.

It would be nice to know so I could either get it updated or determine I wouldn't need it before starting in with the motor tuning!

Cheers!

KS

One of the previous owners got a 3.0t S5 with burnt out body control module. They got a new one, so I helped with the security Component Protection via ODIS. I asked what tune he might do and as he may do the same IE tune as the A6 ... I was like oh yeah? So, I emailed IE with the vin and asked, they confirmed it was Stage 1 and flashed back to stock. I just have to get the IE OBD tool and will be good to go. I don't think IE will be the route I want to go down the strip in... but will buy the tool to try it anyways to break it in.

I know this is for the drag build... but I picked up a D2 A8 to daily for the summer. What a casual cruiser [cool]

could use a 3.0t swap ...[evilsmile]
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Been on the back burner as I have been building higher priority projects. A8 needed a driveline refresh and I wanted to free up a garage spot finishing my 90q 2.3 -> 2.6 stroker i5 20v build. Thats done.

3.2 motor on the bench now getting cleaned up. I need to send the 3.0t rods out for a rebushing. I did one myself, but don't feel comfortable doing it. I am also contemplating putting this 3.2 in my daily A6 as I may rather big turbo and drag race my 90q ... I think [>_<]

I just need to get the motor assembled. I am missing a 3.0t cam set still. anyone got a L&R pair laying around?

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[wrench]

As the owner of two C4 Avants (1 S6, 1 A6) and the past owner of CQ, S2, 3x UrS6s, etc I'm going to struggle to not derail this thread by asking about the 90q.

Cool build!

Thanks, Its cool. Not much going on in this thread yet lol. Your current car list is quite nice. I would love to have a 200tqa again or your urs6 avant...efr boost pulls [drool]

The 90q I stroked the 7a out from 2.3 to a 2.6 with an aaf 2.5 eurovan crank. Used 2.0 TSI rods and pistons with some piston valve relief grinding due valve spacing changes from old to new. Short deck stroker is hard. Took about 5 attempts at piston valve clearencing with full head bolt down and timing the motor each time. Very nerve wrecking on the first starts as the fueling/maf/Hitachi ecu system sucks.... but its coping. Has a nice low end grunt...but is lacking in power. Been collecting a lot of 3b and aan parts for the next turbo phase.....

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...90-90q-2-6-20v

I love engine experimenting. I have the same TSI rods and pistons in a bore/stroked gt2871 1.8t 20v. It is amazing what can be done with all oem parts still. Even my 3.6 vr6 project, I was seeing how much bore I needed to get to a 4.0 vr6... I just want bigger motors than everyone else [>_<]

https://hausofdub.com/g3/var/resizes..._004141610.jpg


3.2T build
Ordered up all 12.9 main bolts, non-vac water pump, and a aluminum side water outlet.

I was getting weird ideas of dropping the whole C7 driveline into my '89 200.... stop it lol [headbang]

Going to be a sweet build! We have a big turbo B8.5 S4 and build a metric tonne of them (not to mention we make every 3.0T part you could ever need), so don't hesitate to reach out if you need anything. We also happen to have an S2 as well so you could say we have aligning interests [:D]

- Bill

Sounds good Bill... always shopping S2 parts and more... [;)]


Started to get the bottom end assembled. Next step is sorting the R&L pistons/rods. Thinking about getting some ARP rod bolts...
-3.2 CALA block 85.5mm bore
-3.2 Crank 92.8mm stroke
-3.2 crank Dampener
-12.9 Main bolts. Used the 4.0T 3-step torque (30nm+50nm+90*)
-3.0T OEM Main bearings
-3.0T OEM 153mm Rods w/ SKF PTFE Composit 20mm bushings
-Victor Reinz spring based rear main seal 068103051G
-3.2 Aluminum water outlet
-3.2 Non-Vac Water pump

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Anyone got spare cams for sale?

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3.0t vs 3.2 rods for reference. Bit stouter.
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This is gonna be a sweet build! Lots of good info in here for others.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dspl1236

Sounds good Bill... always shopping S2 parts and more... [;)]


Started to get the bottom end assembled. Next step is sorting the R&L pistons/rods. Thinking about getting some ARP rod bolts...
-3.2 CALA block 85.5mm bore
-3.2 Crank 92.8mm stroke
-3.2 crank Dampener
-12.9 Main bolts. Used the 4.0T 3-step torque (30nm+50nm+90*)
-3.0T OEM Main bearings
-3.0T OEM 153mm Rods w/ SKF PTFE Composit 20mm bushings
-Victor Reinz spring based rear main seal 068103051G
-3.2 Aluminum water outlet
-3.2 Non-Vac Water pump

https://hausofdub.com/g3/var/resizes..._184616679.jpg
https://hausofdub.com/g3/var/resizes..._163433615.jpg
https://hausofdub.com/g3/var/resizes..._163647092.jpg
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Love all the details here and stuff to learn about. And that’s a big ass crank pulley!


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

It is a big one, but there are even bigger ones lol.

Ok, got the first rod and piston in to see if I got lucky or not... and there is contact. Time to go cylinder by cylinder to check rotation. [wrench] Every piston just scruffs the crank. Little hand filing should be good.

Also ordered some m9x50 arp-2000's rod bolts for a VR6. I see zero reason for the L19 bolts folks are using...just future problems.

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https://youtu.be/MR0H3r7Fn-0

https://youtu.be/kuhVV9WZ790

https://youtu.be/7NMVfkfph08

Spare set of 3.0t camshafts on the way. After looking at lots of 3.2 camshaft photos, I am not sure they would work in the 3.0t without some work. There is a local 3.2fsi car in the junk yard... just to cold out to yank them.

ARP rods bolts came in. So the OEM rods I am using are M9x1 fine thread whereas the one CREC rod I have in M9x1.25 pitch. Perfect fit for my application.

There is an engine build date split on rod bolts per ETKA but seems dependent on what chassis the motor was bound for.
Pre: Oct 12 2011 WHT002662 M9x1x49 ARP 204-6006(for a VR6)
Post: Oct 12 2011 WHT003466 M9x1.25x49 (2x ARP 204-6303 kits for 2.0TSI)

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Alright, Pistons installed. All six pistons have been trimmed to clear the crank. Used a marker to color in the piston skit under the wrist pin to see what was touching. Used a flapper sanding disk to remove material. All the 3.0T timing parts have worked on the 3.2. ARP bolts worked great. I did get an answer back from ARP for the CREC rod bolts. Same as the 2.0TSI bolts. Would have to buy 2 kits for a V6.

Just need a new tube of RTV for the back timing cover and onto the heads. Amsoil greased all guides. Also took apart the new oil fed chain tensioner and greased it as well.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dspl1236

Alright, Pistons installed. All six pistons have been trimmed to clear the crank. Used a marker to color in the piston skit under the wrist pin to see what was touching. Used a flapper sanding disk to remove material. All the 3.0T timing parts have worked on the 3.2. ARP bolts worked great. I did get an answer back from ARP for the CREC rod bolts. Same as the 2.0TSI bolts. Would have to buy 2 kits for a V6.

Just need a new tube of RTV for the back timing cover and onto the heads. Amsoil greased all guides. Also took apart the new oil fed chain tensioner and greased it as well.

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been lurking, enjoying the update. you are a mad man lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by STXA7

been lurking, enjoying the update. you are a mad man lol.

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[evilsmile] I appreciate it.

bottom end is banished to the parts department.... onto the heads. Camshaft set arrives today. [wrench]

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Love the way you decorated the place!

I can only assume after hand grinding those piston skirts, that you're going to have the rotating assembly balanced?

Sent from my Pixel 8 using Audizine Forum mobile app

Nope, I will not be having this rebalanced. Just gunna run it. Removing .25-.5mm material won't be that big of deal compared to heavier rods and bolts (about 100g per rod).

This is more of a fact-finding mission. Show what can be done. Inspire others. Todo this proper would-be even lower compression 85mm 5.2L +1mm/3.2L pistons with 22mm wrist pins for the 3.0T rods...and a rebalance.

I did see folks are using the 3.2 crank in the 3.0t block with V10 5.2 pistons and forged rods...the math works. But is only a 3.1. Cool option.



Cams were delivered. Great shape. Valve steam seals were all hard rocks. Double blue stripe and no broken springs. Blue/white springs were cracking if I recall.
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Dishwasher pods in the ultrasonic cleaner does work quite well... 3 pods and a few hours later. What I noticed as that all the intake valves have great looking seats and are in great shape. Exhaust valve seats took like none were sealing without the help of carbon buildup [>_<]

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I got all the valves spotless with dishwasher pods and hot water. I got 3 bad intake valves. Odd damage on the shaft where the valve seals sit.... now I ponder... buy 3 new valves... or full aftermarket [confused]

I will ruminate about this as I OBD2 swap my Corrado [wrench]

I bought all new valves and such.. working on a VR6 obd1 -> obd2 in the meantime. Good day. [wrench]
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