The CWA100 upgraded supercharge coolant pump thread...everything CWA100...

[irish07]

Another quick update.

I pulled the wiring harness out and I did verify that it was pinned correctly and I did verify that removing the wire that I originally removed was the pwm wire and the pump was running at 100%. So everything is working as it should be. For some reason I am still getting relatively high iat's for a stage 2 single pulley tune. On a 1st through 4th your pool, as well as a 4th gear pull from 2,000 RPMs I'm going from approximately 102 degrees Fahrenheit to 175 degrees Fahrenheit. I have the 4.0T MercRacing heat exchanger.

I feel like I was very thorough and my bleed procedure, but I'm going to investigate any potential areas that are could be hiding in the system. But for now I think I'm going to put some BG super cool or water wetter into the system to keep my iat's down until me and Jose figure out what is going on.

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Are you logging and seeing same temps on both banks for IAT? (Each bank can be monitored)


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[AudiC7Owners]

Are you logging and seeing same temps on both banks for IAT? (Each bank can be monitored)


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHere is my log from yesterday. I'm using the IE data logger so I'm kind of limited. I don't have vcds, but I do have obdeleven. I've heard the obdeleven data logs are not that great though.

https://datazap.me/u/audic7owners/mercracing-v3-40t-hx-cwa-100-coolant-pump?log=0&data=20

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[01northernS4]

wow, that's super toasty... what were your ambient temps? you must still have air trapped... something is not right.

how were your iat's in comparable ambient temps before the upgrade?



Another quick update.

I pulled the wiring harness out and I did verify that it was pinned correctly and I did verify that removing the wire that I originally removed was the pwm wire and the pump was running at 100%. So everything is working as it should be. For some reason I am still getting relatively high iat's for a stage 2 single pulley tune. On a 1st through 4th your pool, as well as a 4th gear pull from 2,000 RPMs I'm going from approximately 102 degrees Fahrenheit to 175 degrees Fahrenheit. I have the 4.0T MercRacing heat exchanger.

I feel like I was very thorough and my bleed procedure, but I'm going to investigate any potential areas that are could be hiding in the system. But for now I think I'm going to put some BG super cool or water wetter into the system to keep my iat's down until me and Jose figure out what is going on.

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[irish07]

Here is my log from yesterday. I'm using the IE data logger so I'm kind of limited. I don't have vcds, but I do have obdeleven. I've heard the obdeleven data logs are not that great though.

https://datazap.me/u/audic7owners/mercracing-v3-40t-hx-cwa-100-coolant-pump?log=0&data=20

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Viewing on my phone, but log starts at 31C and ends at 67.5C @7120rpm/2500mbar..that’s like 88F run to 154F.


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[avantagg]

I feel like I was very thorough and my bleed procedure, but I'm going to investigate any potential areas that are could be hiding in the system. But for now I think I'm going to put some BG super cool or water wetter into the system to keep my iat's down until me and Jose figure out what is going on.

Are you running a bleed line off the HX to his reservoir?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/496b3371025f484eca90f6aa8ece7702.jpg

[01northernS4]

Are you running a bleed line off the HX to his reservoir?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/496b3371025f484eca90f6aa8ece7702.jpg

I like... is that off the bleeder port? If so, how did you connect it and is it possible to do this if not divorced by tapping into the stock coolant reservoir?

[AudiC7Owners]

Viewing on my phone, but log starts at 31C and ends at 67.5C @7120rpm/2500mbar..that’s like 88F run to 154F.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI posted the wrong one. Here is a screen shot of the one done during the day.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/c8991c363c8ffcf11ef18cbd2788e5f0.jpg

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[AudiC7Owners]

wow, that's super toasty... what were your ambient temps? you must still have air trapped... something is not right.

how were your iat's in comparable ambient temps before the upgrade?Roughly the same. That's why I know it isn't any of the upgrades.

We are thinking that the intercooler seals may be leaking hot air around the cores.

Jose from MercRacing is coming to visit in a couple weekends so we can diagnose everything.

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[avantagg]

I like... is that off the bleeder port? If so, how did you connect it and is it possible to do this if not divorced by tapping into the stock coolant reservoir?

It’s off the bleed port yes, just added an NPT hose fitting to replace bleeder and ran tube over to a barbed port on the reservoir. It’s a self bleeding system very similar to the APR HX, but this bypasses the the engine coolant loop by divorcing it. This was a prototype he sent me using a modified version of his old tank and the exact set up he uses in his YouTube video measuring iats. I think he will be offering the updated reservoir tanks soon. I run this set up with the CWA100-3 at 100% duty.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/e900522c1621afd706f75c88e9dec5d3.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/9171c762dbd623ac7fef51b7fda18953.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/7ae03e41badb10e777a14bed746dc4c0.jpg

[AudiC7Owners]

It’s off the bleed port yes, just added an NPT hose fitting to replace bleeder and ran tube over to a barbed port on the reservoir. It’s a self bleeding system very similar to the APR HX, but this bypasses the the engine coolant loop by divorcing it. This was a prototype he sent me using a modified version of his old tank and the exact set up he uses in his YouTube video measuring iats. I think he will be offering the updated reservoir tanks soon. I run this set up with the CWA100-3 at 100% duty.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/e900522c1621afd706f75c88e9dec5d3.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/9171c762dbd623ac7fef51b7fda18953.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/7ae03e41badb10e777a14bed746dc4c0.jpg

Yep... Doing the same thing on mine. We just have to design a bracket for the C7. I'm excited to never have to worry about bleeding the car again.

Does this setup also bleed the SC cores as well? I feel like air can always get trapped in the SC, so I'm curious how well it works.

[avantagg]

Yep... Doing the same thing on mine. We just have to design a bracket for the C7. I'm excited to never have to worry about bleeding the car again.

Does this setup also bleed the SC cores as well? I feel like air can always get trapped in the SC, so I'm curious how well it works.

I am hopeful it will keep the air out of the system but I am going to vacuum fill it just to be safe.

[01northernS4]

It’s off the bleed port yes, just added an NPT hose fitting to replace bleeder and ran tube over to a barbed port on the reservoir. It’s a self bleeding system very similar to the APR HX, but this bypasses the the engine coolant loop by divorcing it. This was a prototype he sent me using a modified version of his old tank and the exact set up he uses in his YouTube video measuring iats. I think he will be offering the updated reservoir tanks soon. I run this set up with the CWA100-3 at 100% duty.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/e900522c1621afd706f75c88e9dec5d3.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/9171c762dbd623ac7fef51b7fda18953.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/7ae03e41badb10e777a14bed746dc4c0.jpg

Excellent work!

So I'm assuming there is a one way valve somewhere along your connection to the divorced reservoir?

The apr hx style self bleed taps into #16 on your diagram of the stock coolant reservoir... if I'm not mistaken there is a one way valve there so air is not sucked back into the hx loop, correct?

I'd like to do this self bleed without divorcing on a stock coolant setup...

On a side note... how do you like the upgraded crash bar? Have you noticed better cooling with it?

[avantagg]

Excellent work!

So I'm assuming there is a one way valve somewhere along your connection to the divorced reservoir?

The apr hx style self bleed taps into #16 on your diagram of the stock coolant reservoir... if I'm not mistaken there is a one way valve there so air is not sucked back into the hx loop, correct?

I'd like to do this self bleed without divorcing on a stock coolant setup...

On a side note... how do you like the upgraded crash bar? Have you noticed better cooling with it?

No check valve on my set up. Run just like the diagram. I will let you know once it’s back on the road, but Jose seems to like it! The rmr crash bar should provide a little extra air flow too, I splurged when I did the S6 HX upgrade and decided the extra space up front might be nice if I ever wanted to add a dsg or oil cooler.

[Albertaholdings]

People should post about the problem when they find it and stop talking about divorced system. It's been proven over and over divorce system causes problems. With cooling and blown intercoolers.

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[01northernS4]

People should post about the problem when they find it and stop talking about divorced system. It's been proven over and over divorce system causes problems. With cooling and blown intercoolers.

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agreed...and why I will not divorce my system... self bleeding hx to the stock coolant reservoir ala APR, on the other hand, sounds very interesting...

[M1k3ee]

Just to be clear, letting the CWA-100 pump run in emergency mode will only flow the coolant at around 100% duty in the supercharger coolant loop and not in the engine coolant loop (as that is controlled by the engine water pump)?

@Trevorshackelfo Installing this pump in a CREC engine car will guarantee a fault code in VCDS and is only possible with it running in emergency mode, or can it also run on the PWM signal?

[mahhdd]

I got my MercRacing HX shipping number today.

[Fresh.S4]

interesting chatter lately about folks not liking the divorce setup...

i recently divorced my setup and havent noticed significant difference.
in fact you'll see significant difference in temp control if you keep your bottom engine plastic panels off the car. i am currently considering the cwa1003 pump to see if that helps anything

[RoofRails]

interesting chatter lately about folks not liking the divorce setup...

i recently divorced my setup and havent noticed significant difference.
in fact you'll see significant difference in temp control if you keep your bottom engine plastic panels off the car. i am currently considering the cwa1003 pump to see if that helps anythingI think the big benefits to divorcing comes from the ease in running a higher water content in the HX loop and or adding capacity. On the OEM setup the engine loop and the HX loop do not share coolant so without increasing the percentage of water inside the HX loop and or adding a large tank that adds capacity I don't see where the benefits would come from by divorcing. As to whether or not the divorcing adds pressure and somehow contributes to the IC cores failing I'm not sure that has been proven one way or another yet. I have seen people's IC cores fail on non divorced setups too and there are people who divorced their HX and go through 4 sets of ICs in a year. Its all over the map.

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[Jugghead51]

I have a non divorced set up and have had 3 IC failures over the last 20k miles. Just picked up the car this morning after having the Jokerz ICs bricks installed. Shelled out the cash just for the hope they last longer. Hopeful about decrease IATs with them but getting a set to last is what I’m looking for most of all. Such a mess every time they fail.


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[AudiC7Owners]

I have a non divorced set up and have had 3 IC failures over the last 20k miles. Just picked up the car this morning after having the Jokerz ICs bricks installed. Shelled out the cash just for the hope they last longer. Hopeful about decrease IATs with them but getting a set to last is what I’m looking for most of all. Such a mess every time they fail.


Sent from my iPad using TapatalkDamn... I feel like there must be something contributing to early failure.

Were they all oem bricks? Where did you buy them from?

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[Jugghead51]

They were all OEM, newest revision. Not sure the shop’s supplier but they are a high end German shop that I have been using for years. Most parts are from Audi. I agree it is all over the place with these failures (divorced v non, ported charger v non)and I have done a bunch of research but nothing clear.


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[AudiC7Owners]

They were all OEM, newest revision. Not sure the shop’s supplier but they are a high end German shop that I have been using for years. Most parts are from Audi. I agree it is all over the place with these failures (divorced v non, ported charger v non)and I have done a bunch of research but nothing clear.


Sent from my iPad using TapatalkI'd be buying from fcp so you don't have to keep paying for them lol

Interested to see how your jokerz bricks work out

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[Jugghead51]

Didn’t know about FCP until recently but yes, if I go back to OEM that is where I’ll go. I’ll keep the forum updated on the Jokerz. Only have about 10 miles in rush hour traffic on them now so not much to report. No pulls or logs. Ambient was 60F and AITs were 75F the whole way in but like I said that was doing 20mph from the shop to the office.


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[Fresh.S4]

i dont think the jokerz will help with cooling as much as they meant for longevity and flow. and i mean air flow passing through the bricks, not coolant.

[hunter_killer]

interesting chatter lately about folks not liking the divorce setup...

i recently divorced my setup and havent noticed significant difference.
in fact you'll see significant difference in temp control if you keep your bottom engine plastic panels off the car. i am currently considering the cwa1003 pump to see if that helps anything

How much of a difference did you see? I always wondered about the belly pans keeping all that hot air contained without a good way of extracting it without a top side solution (like hood cutouts).


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[mahhdd]

Jokerz got ripped on the Facebook forums over these bricks because of the lack of data around them. Brett ragequit the group and it looked awful for them.

I hope the bricks are worth a damn, though!

[Trevorshackelfo]

Just to be clear, letting the CWA-100 pump run in emergency mode will only flow the coolant at around 100% duty in the supercharger coolant loop and not in the engine coolant loop (as that is controlled by the engine water pump)?

@Trevorshackelfo Installing this pump in a CREC engine car will guarantee a fault code in VCDS and is only possible with it running in emergency mode, or can it also run on the PWM signal?Good question, i have only run mine at 100%. Put i assume if you hook it up properly theres no reason why it shouldnt run normally according to PWM it receives and not throw a soft code.

Its just 12v power, ground wire and PWM wire (variable voltage). Theres no way the ecu can see what kind of pump is installed so long as the current has somewhere to flow to. All it does is supply contant 12v and variable PWM voltage per pre programmed conditions.

Anyone running a CWA-100 on a CREC on PWM?

Next time im in there i suppose i can plug my wire back together and see what happens.

2017 A6 Prestige 3.0 Moonlight Blue Metallic/Nougat Brown Interior/Walnut Brown Trim/ZF8/20" Factory wheels/Sport Suspension/APR Stage 2 Single Pulley/IE Intake/RSNav S3/VAGed up - San Diego, Ca

[Trevorshackelfo]

How much of a difference did you see? I always wondered about the belly pans keeping all that hot air contained without a good way of extracting it without a top side solution (like hood cutouts).


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Also curious on the belly pans, never thought to do that, but i suppose its logical, this engine bay is like a damn cocoon, keeps things very clean inside the bay but at what cost to cooling?

2017 A6 Prestige 3.0 Moonlight Blue Metallic/Nougat Brown Interior/Walnut Brown Trim/ZF8/20" Factory wheels/Sport Suspension/APR Stage 2 Single Pulley/IE Intake/RSNav S3/VAGed up - San Diego, Ca

[AudiC7Owners]

Also curious on the belly pans, never thought to do that, but i suppose its logical, this engine bay is like a damn cocoon, keeps things very clean inside the bay but at what cost to cooling?

2017 A6 Prestige 3.0 Moonlight Blue Metallic/Nougat Brown Interior/Walnut Brown Trim/ZF8/20" Factory wheels/Sport Suspension/APR Stage 2 Single Pulley/IE Intake/RSNav S3/VAGed up - San Diego, CaI've got a set of kolchuga skid plates coming that are designed to remove heat from the underside of the engine along with protecting everything

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[AudiC7Owners]

Accidental double post

[sepheroth86]

I've got a set of kolchuga skid plates coming that are designed to remove heat from the underside of the engine along with protecting everything

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What is the approximate cost of such units? My factory rear panel was damaged over the winter and I have been looking for a more resilient replacement.

[AudiC7Owners]

What is the approximate cost of such units? My factory rear panel was damaged over the winter and I have been looking for a more resilient replacement.Approx 260 for the c7

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[mahhdd]

Approx 260 for the c7

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Do you have a date for when Jose is coming to help identify the problem? I am receiving my HX tomorrow; but, I'm waiting on you to post a how-to video on the bleeding and install so I can prep for mine.

I'm going to pay a mechanic friend of mine to help get it on and bleed. He lives an hour north, so I realllllly don't want to run into issues.

[AudiC7Owners]

Do you have a date for when Jose is coming to help identify the problem? I am receiving my HX tomorrow; but, I'm waiting on you to post a how-to video on the bleeding and install so I can prep for mine.

I'm going to pay a mechanic friend of mine to help get it on and bleed. He lives an hour north, so I realllllly don't want to run into issues.My diy for the bleed procedure is up [emoji1303].

I might get the install diy up today, but remember our cars are different & the coolant lines are ran differently between B8's & C7's. Other than that they are pretty similar.

Jose is coming next Friday [emoji1591]

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[AudiC7Owners]

I just ordered 700$ worth of parts & gaskets from fcp. I'm going to swap my pcv & inspect the sc intercoolers

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[mahhdd]

I got my HX today... No CWA 100-3. I've already contacted Jose.

I'm a little nervous there was supposed to be a 2nd box on this order. I don't know if USPS has multiple boxes on one tracking number.

[djn876]

I got my HX today... No CWA 100-3. I've already contacted Jose.

I'm a little nervous there was supposed to be a 2nd box on this order. I don't know if USPS has multiple boxes on one tracking number.Usually each box gets its own tracking number. The shipment should also say that it is multiple pieces.

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[mahhdd]

Usually each box gets its own tracking number. The shipment should also say that it is multiple pieces.

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That makes me feel a little better, because I see no indication that there were multiple boxes.

EDIT: Confirmed this with USPS. They said each package has its own tracking number with them. Jose must've not shipped yet. Item says "Out of stock" on their website, and didn't say this when I ordered back in March.

EDIT #2: Heard back from Jose - "Hello. Pumps have not been received from the distributor. Still having delay issues. Thanks."

[PeppeTDI]

Hi guys, i have a buy this pump cwa100 vag parts n 4N0965567 for install it on my audi a3 8v 2.0tdi, but i think that i have a problem with pump.[sbattere la testa]
If i connect it to battery of car with only + and -, it will work really?

[RoofRails]

Hi guys, i have a buy this pump cwa100 vag parts n 4N0965567 for install it on my audi a3 8v 2.0tdi, but i think that i have a problem with pump.[sbattere la testa]
If i connect it to battery of car with only + and -, it will work really?If you send 12V through the + and - of that pump using the correct terminals the pump will run. The signal wire does not have to be hooked up.

Edit : added picture of the correct pin out.

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237484

[PeppeTDI]

I connect:
+12 (power) at pin 2
-12 (ground) at pin 1

I test it on battery of my car and on my bench, but it not work. The pump ia new with warranty label 😅

[RoofRails]

I connect:
+12 (power) at pin 2
-12 (ground) at pin 1

I test it on battery of my car and on my bench, but it not work. The pump ia new with warranty label [emoji28]As long as you aren't mixing up pin 1 and pin 3 (use the D shape of the connector as your reference) then yes I would say you have a dead pump.

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[ANMS4]

Tecomotive sells the harness...100% plug and play with the harness.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190522/8cee08402a962d1886db8fe4ced1f7df.jpg

This is the (Audi) CWA50 to CWA100-3 Adapter Kit? Want to make sure this it the replacement kit for my stock pump

[bajan01]

This is the (Audi) CWA50 to CWA100-3 Adapter Kit? Want to make sure this it the replacement kit for my stock pump

Yes. I recently bought another one for my S4. I have been running it on my SQ5 for a few years now. Other companies may also sell a similar kit but I purchased directly from Tecomotive. They are based in England, ask for Tobias Mucke…[email protected]

tecomotive.com (https://tecomotive.com/en/products/CWA100-3.html)

[ANMS4]

Yes. I recently bought another one for my S4. I have been running it on my SQ5 for a few years now. Other companies may also sell a similar kit but I purchased directly from Tecomotive. They are based in England, ask for Tobias Mucke…[email protected]

tecomotive.com (https://tecomotive.com/en/products/CWA100-3.html)

Cool thanx man! I'm not sure though the shipping said 14/55 days :O!

[bajan01]

Cool thanx man! I'm not sure though the shipping said 14/55 days :O!

Email him and see if that’s real. If not try Jose Mercado at MercRacing. He might have some and he’s based in the US.

[bajan01]

Sorry double post.

[ANMS4]

Email him and see if that’s real. If not try Jose Mercado at MercRacing. He might have some and he’s based in the US.

Merc racing is on BO till Aug :(

I'll try emailing Tobais

Just sent him an email, Thanx man!

[sepheroth86]

Curious if anyone had tried a CWA 200?

Looks to move a lot more volume, but I would think that the remainder of the plumbing on our cars would need to be upgraded as well.

[Gcumbie]

I bought the tecomotive kit for my 14 S5 and the fans run on high anytime I open or close the doors or trunk, is that normal, after installing it?

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[RoofRails]

I bought the tecomotive kit for my 14 S5 and the fans run on high anytime I open or close the doors or trunk, is that normal, after installing it?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)The fans or the pump ? If you cut the signal wire to the pump it will cycle when you open the doors or trunk. The pump installation should have no effect on your fans.

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[Gcumbie]

The fans or the pump ? If you cut the signal wire to the pump it will cycle when you open the doors or trunk. The pump installation should have no effect on your fans.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)The fans, I squeezed the hose and it seems to be pumping after install, but the now the radiator fans kick on high with the doors and trunk, didn't know if it was normal, I am duel pulley tuned with IE if that makes a difference?

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[RoofRails]

The fans, I squeezed the hose and it seems to be pumping after install, but the now the radiator fans kick on high with the doors and trunk, didn't know if it was normal, I am duel pulley tuned with IE if that makes a difference?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Not sure how the fans on 100% I.E mod works with the doors but you may have just bumped your cruise control stalk into the on position and triggerd the fan mod in your ECU.

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[bajan01]

The fans, I squeezed the hose and it seems to be pumping after install, but the now the radiator fans kick on high with the doors and trunk, didn't know if it was normal, I am duel pulley tuned with IE if that makes a difference?

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The pump does cycle when you open the doors etc.

I’d ask IE if they have any feature programmed into their tune which automatically kick the fans on high when the pump is running.

[AudiC7Owners]

The pump does cycle when you open the doors etc.

I’d ask IE if they have any feature programmed into their tune which automatically kick the fans on high when the pump is running.Ie has a feature where you're fans come on for staging purposes.you control it with your cruise control stalk if I'm not mistaken. Give them a call

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[Gcumbie]

Ie has a feature where you're fans come on for staging purposes.you control it with your cruise control stalk if I'm not mistaken. Give them a call

Sent from my Llama using TapatalkI didn't know that was part of the tune but I emailed them to see if maybe it's just a cool mode thing, I'll see what they say, hopefully it's just that !

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[Gcumbie]

Well IE said they only turn the fans and pump on high at WOT, so I guess something with the pump wiring ? Or maybe fan control module but I don't know why it would fail right at the same time as the pump was replaced, weird maybe I'll try and plug the old one in and see what happens

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[Shane Horning]

Well IE said they only turn the fans and pump on high at WOT, so I guess something with the pump wiring ? Or maybe fan control module but I don't know why it would fail right at the same time as the pump was replaced, weird maybe I'll try and plug the old one in and see what happens

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)So I do know for a fact that ie fan mod doesn't work if plm wire is disconnected on pump. Mabe somehow thst is screwing with the signal and causing the fan to kick on with the pump when car is off

[AudiC7Owners]

So I do know for a fact that ie fan mod doesn't work if plm wire is disconnected on pump. Mabe somehow thst is screwing with the signal and causing the fan to kick on with the pump when car is offThat's not a bad theory

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[ANMS4]

Well IE said they only turn the fans and pump on high at WOT, so I guess something with the pump wiring ? Or maybe fan control module but I don't know why it would fail right at the same time as the pump was replaced, weird maybe I'll try and plug the old one in and see what happens

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I'm guessing this is in their new version of their tune?

[mahhdd]

I ordered my CWA100-3 from Jose back on 3/15 and I'm still waiting on it. Jose said they were globally backordered.

[Gcumbie]

I did the ECU tune back in march, and the TCU last month so not super super recent, but yeah I'll definitely check out the signal wire and see where that leads!

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[mahhdd]

Finally got an email with a tracking number for the CWA :)

[PeppeTDI]

Hi guys i buy a new pump from Tobias of Tecnomotive. I receive and install it with a cable mod of Tobias, but the pump not work. With an help of tester i try the cable and i see the voltage is different cable, now i cut the cable with a new value and the pump work.

i connect it in this method:

___________
|__3__2__1_ )

cable pump Car Cable

PIN 1 GND Black ------- RED
PIN 2 +12v Red ------- Grey
PIN 3 Signal Grey ----- Black

https://ibb.co/Wzd4mgB


I have another doubt guys, in my car Audi A3 8v sportback 2.0 tdi 150cv type of engile CRL, I noticed that there are two auxiliary water pumps, one in the rear of the engine and it should be for the operation of the internal heating radiator, and the other is present on the front side of the engine as in the photo, and is the one I changed. Did I change the right one?
https://ibb.co/ZdmJzVj

[ANMS4]

Anyone one know where else to get this I sent Tobias of Tecnomotive twice and never got a reply?

[Patrick Matte]

Anyone one know where else to get this I sent Tobias of Tecnomotive twice and never got a reply?

This seem to be two different problem.

The ECU will turn on the fan when unlocking or locking the doors when the ECU is kind of corrupted. All you need to do is put back the stock tune with the power link and then after installation, you simply put the right tune for you. ALWAYS put back to stock your car when you switch tune.

This happened to me before. Been there done that.

Also

I got the cwa100-3 from Tecomotive and I bought the connector. I just take 5 min to take a look at their website where they show all kind of cwa100 wiring diagram. Just wired up the right ones togheter and voilà !


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[techracer]

Is the cwa100 upgrade recommended for Single pulley with upgraded HX?

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[AudiC7Owners]

Is the cwa100 upgrade recommended for Single pulley with upgraded HX?

Sent from my SM-N976V using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)I love it on mine

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[Patrick Matte]

Is the cwa100 upgrade recommended for Single pulley with upgraded HX?

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You will benefit from the cwa100 even on a stock car.

You’re iat’s Delta will be - 10 degrees. That’s a lot ! People using Watermeth thinking is good for Iats never get that gain ! Watermeth user get usually -3 of their delta :-/


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[techracer]

You will benefit from the cwa100 even on a stock car.

You’re iat’s Delta will be - 10 degrees. That’s a lot ! People using Watermeth thinking is good for Iats never get that gain ! Watermeth user get usually -3 of their delta :-/


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Audizine ForumWow good to know, thanks!

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[RedLineManiac]

I have read through this entire thread now and am still contemplating getting the cwa100 pump. Want to run it as OEM, no wire cutting, PWM style.

Nobody has seemed to figure out which engine/ecu version is able to control them? 2016 Model year 3.0T Q5, engine code is CTVA.

[djn876]

I have read through this entire thread now and am still contemplating getting the cwa100 pump. Want to run it as OEM, no wire cutting, PWM style.

Nobody has seemed to figure out which engine/ecu version is able to control them? 2016 Model year 3.0T Q5, engine code is CTVA.It doesn't make sense that it wouldn't work well, the PWM signal is the same for the 50, 100, and 150 regarding what speed to run the pump at, and the resistor for the PWM is the same on all of them too. Obviously some people are having issues, but wondering if something just isn't connecting right with the adapter harness.

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[wrxkyle]

I have read through this entire thread now and am still contemplating getting the cwa100 pump. Want to run it as OEM, no wire cutting, PWM style.

Nobody has seemed to figure out which engine/ecu version is able to control them? 2016 Model year 3.0T Q5, engine code is CTVA.

question, why do you care if it runs all the time?

the only downside i've found is if i fall asleep on the couch with remote in my pocket the constant locking/unlocking "wakes" the car up making the pump run and killing the battery faster if i don't drive a few days. stopped falling asleep with remote in pocket and never been a problem since.

[mahhdd]

The classic !couchsleep+keyFOB mod

[wrxkyle]

The classic !couchsleep+keyFOB mod

what can i say the quarantine netflix binging was real.

[RedLineManiac]

It doesn't make sense that it wouldn't work well, the PWM signal is the same for the 50, 100, and 150 regarding what speed to run the pump at, and the resistor for the PWM is the same on all of them too. Obviously some people are having issues, but wondering if something just isn't connecting right with the adapter harness.

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That is what I kept thinking, possible wiring issue. The thing that got me really confused was the pump not running properly but at a low speed only. Not controlled by either PWM or at 100% constantly, that will create problems for me. Plus soft codes for when you scan the car, that is not compatible with my mindset.

[RedLineManiac]

question, why do you care if it runs all the time?

the only downside i've found is if i fall asleep on the couch with remote in my pocket the constant locking/unlocking "wakes" the car up making the pump run and killing the battery faster if i don't drive a few days. stopped falling asleep with remote in pocket and never been a problem since.

Because I want it to function as intended, if it can work like that then it should. It is a personal preference, why settle for a minor drawback if you can negate it completely. Trying to create a better understanding of the underlying principles, is it a matter of incorrect wiring or are there unnoticed differences between different platforms, detailles matter and I simply prefer to know.

[djn876]

For me running the pump off the PWM signal just avoids unnecessary wear on the pump, and also in the winter even the CWA50 hardly needs to run when it gets really cold out, that's a lot of thermal stress on the intercoolers that doesn't need to be there either. That's just me though and maybe it's so minor it doesn't matter, but if I upgrade I would want the PWM signal to work for me.

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[wrxkyle]

Because I want it to function as intended, if it can work like that then it should. It is a personal preference, why settle for a minor drawback if you can negate it completely. Trying to create a better understanding of the underlying principles, is it a matter of incorrect wiring or are there unnoticed differences between different platforms, details matter and I simply prefer to know.

to answer that any number of things, the pwm signal, the overall resistances, voltages, maybe the speeds it reports back. no one even knows if it is an ecu based issue or a pump reading the ecu signal issue, signal might be too weak, who knows. the tl;dr is i don't think anyone has ever figured out the real cause, also keep in mind that the car basically NEVER runs the pump at 100%, if I'm spending the money to upgrade the pump to get better cooling I want to get the most out of it, the car only runs the pump at all under certain conditions. you could attach a switch as others do and only run 100% when requested but i don't remember seeing any posts about which years seem to tolerate it and which years just run it in emergency mode all the time. once i get mine on and stop being lazy I'll try and wire up a switch and test it (I'm already on cut factory pump)

i don't know of any cwa100's failing due to wear, so that's likely not a big concern. the reason to settle for the minor drawback is the major advantage of running 100% to get cruising iat's even lower (when the car barely runs the pump or doesn't at all below certain temps)

i haven't seen winter though in like 5 years so i can't comment on the thermal shock concerns, but especially in those cases running 100% will get better performance vs the car not running the pump much due to temp being high, run it at 100 and you've basically got a killer chiller.

i really wouldn't worry about it, but to each their own. i don't know that even the guys at techmotive have that answer, you could make a poll post and ask the cwa users via that method or something.

[mahhdd]

I'm going to run mine at 100% too.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd get the pump from FCP Euro to get the lifetime warranty. I didn't know about the PWM issue at the time of order (or pay close enough attention to it).

[djn876]

Here is the PWM info from Pierburg/Tecomotive, note it is generic for all of the CWA 50, 100, and 150 pumps. Like I mentioned, theoretically it should be the same for all of them, but it could just be that the voltage provided by the ECU isn't pulsed long enough to get the pump to work properly since it does require more power to operate. As mentioned, don't know why it doesn't work right for some people but does for others.

That being said, I watch my PWM signal when driving every time I'm in the car with Torque and when hot out (like anything about 60 if I had to guess), it runs at 93.4% PWM pretty much all the time, which falls into the "maximum speed" range. When WOT, it goes to 95% PWM, either way that's still max speed.

So it actually does run at max almost all the time in the late spring/summer, I highly doubt there is any real benefit based on the pump curve that a small amount of additional speed will provide. I just don't see the need to run it like that all the time in the winter since it does what it needs to when it's hot.

I'm sure the wear and everything is minimal, just my own considerations is all.238596

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[RedLineManiac]

Here is the PWM info from Pierburg/Tecomotive, note it is generic for all of the CWA 50, 100, and 150 pumps. Like I mentioned, theoretically it should be the same for all of them, but it could just be that the voltage provided by the ECU isn't pulsed long enough to get the pump to work properly since it does require more power to operate. As mentioned, don't know why it doesn't work right for some people but does for others.

That being said, I watch my PWM signal when driving every time I'm in the car with Torque and when hot out (like anything about 60 if I had to guess), it runs at 93.4% PWM pretty much all the time, which falls into the "maximum speed" range. When WOT, it goes to 95% PWM, either way that's still max speed.

So it actually does run at max almost all the time in the late spring/summer, I highly doubt there is any real benefit based on the pump curve that a small amount of additional speed will provide. I just don't see the need to run it like that all the time in the winter since it does what it needs to when it's hot.

I'm sure the wear and everything is minimal, just my own considerations is all.238596

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Thanks for the clarification, already ordered two. One for the RS7 and one for the Q5, I’ll see if they work. If anything I will put back in the cwa50 ones.

[djn876]

Thanks for the clarification, already ordered two. One for the RS7 and one for the Q5, I’ll see if they work. If anything I will put back in the cwa50 ones.Tell you what, I'll take the RS7 off your hands and then you only need one pump!

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[RedLineManiac]

Tell you what, I'll take the RS7 off your hands and then you only need one pump!

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What will I do with the extra pump then? Can’t let that go to waste, cars are in the ME, just a short drive for you I am sure ^^

Back on topic now

[sepheroth86]

There were talks in the C7 4.0tt subforum regarding running the pumps in series to create even more flow.

[wrxkyle]

There were talks in the C7 4.0tt subforum regarding running the pumps in series to create even more flow.

yeah if i were to go this route i'd split them between the side of hx to be like a push pull kind of thing and have considered it as my stock pump is fine.

[RedLineManiac]

There were talks in the C7 4.0tt subforum regarding running the pumps in series to create even more flow.

Testing still in progress for multiple combinations

[AudiC7Owners]

I finished installing my MercRacing divorced reservoir. I also replaced my intercooler cores & a bad pcv breather hose that was feeding my supercharger hot air & burning oil.

I filled the sc coolant loop with distilled water & some water wetter.

I haven't done full logs yet, but on my first drive I noticed this:

-After reaching running temperature, my care idled at 108F. This was in very hot weather. For comparison, my car before divorcing had iat's of 108 when running at 80mph with air going over the HX. So that was a huge improvement.

-running temperature was 92 degrees, which was almost exactly 20 degrees over ambient.

-did a quick 3rd gear pull from 3k rpms which would usually send my iat's to 170+, but they barely went over 140F now. Massive improvement.

I'm going to let the auto bleed line do its thing for a few days and purge the remaining air that may be in the loop and then do logs, but I can tell you this has yielded a huge difference for me. Really happy with the outcome so far

Sent from my Llama using Tapatalk

[mahhdd]

What issues are commonly caused by divorcing? Is it blowing IC cores?

Does Jose's method somehow solve this? I know he said it was going to be different; but, I don't know how it's different (or an improvement).

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

[jason bouchard]

Also any word on anyone running a large external reservoir like a 4 liter one (i.e. PLM mode that fits under the front bumper)?

I have an upgraded awe HX and the awe smaller cylinder reservoir and its divorced with no issues so far but I would lile more capacity and also would like the upgrade the pump at the same time. Thx

[AudiC7Owners]

What issues are commonly caused by divorcing? Is it blowing IC cores?

Does Jose's method somehow solve this? I know he said it was going to be different; but, I don't know how it's different (or an improvement).

Sent from my moto x4 using TapatalkThe only people that are blowing ic cores after divorcing are those that weren't properly tokd how to fill the new reservoir. You have to leave room for the fluid to fluctuate up & down as the system pressurizes. You don't need a lot of fluid in it. Just enough to keep the loop from pulling on air.

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[Fresh.S4]

Also any word on anyone running a large external reservoir like a 4 liter one (i.e. PLM mode that fits under the front bumper)?

I have an upgraded awe HX and the awe smaller cylinder reservoir and its divorced with no issues so far but I would lile more capacity and also would like the upgrade the pump at the same time. Thx

some guy did it back in 2018 i think and posted it here. he saw success, especially when he add ice cubes.

[Patrick Matte]

some guy did it back in 2018 i think and posted it here. he saw success, especially when he add ice cubes.

I dit it and got it. What is your question ? 239128


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[KillrS4]

I own an Audi S4 b8.5. I have an Audi S6 HX, CWA-100, PLM coolant expansion tank+PLM coolant reservoir, all coolant lines upgraded to 3/4. That tank is definitely worth the money. I was able to maintain the same IAT’s even after 10 WOT pulls. The tank+3/4 lines that you’re running, you’re basically adding 1.5 gallons of coolant. I say that will definitely increase your thermal capacity. I run a divorced system too with the tank on top, will be adding ice cubes in to see if it does anything for my coolant temps.

Has anyone looked into upgrading to the CSF performance radiator for our b8’s? Is there any information on it? Will it increase the overall cooling for the engine at all? Is it even worth the money/trouble ?

[mahhdd]

I own an Audi S4 b8.5. I have an Audi S6 HX, CWA-100, PLM coolant expansion tank+PLM coolant reservoir, all coolant lines upgraded to 3/4. That tank is definitely worth the money. I was able to maintain the same IAT’s even after 10 WOT pulls. The tank+3/4 lines that you’re running, you’re basically adding 1.5 gallons of coolant. I say that will definitely increase your thermal capacity. I run a divorced system too with the tank on top, will be adding ice cubes in to see if it does anything for my coolant temps.

Has anyone looked into upgrading to the CSF performance radiator for our b8’s? Is there any information on it? Will it increase the overall cooling for the engine at all? Is it even worth the money/trouble ?

Is this the PLM coolant expansion tank+PLM coolant reservoir you're talking about? https://privatelabelmfg.com/products/plm-power-driven-audi-coolant-tank-a4-s4-b8-b8-5?_pos=1&_sid=06f02a916&_ss=r
Does it autobleed the system?
Do you have to be divorced to run this?

Rookie questions, I know.
I'm not really mechanically included, so I'd rather drop the money to do my setup right the first time around than to deal with hassle, temp issues, and re-bleeding on the back end. Just trying to do my due dilligence.

[sivletho]

I finished installing my MercRacing divorced reservoir. I also replaced my intercooler cores & a bad pcv breather hose that was feeding my supercharger hot air & burning oil.

I filled the sc coolant loop with distilled water & some water wetter.

I haven't done full logs yet, but on my first drive I noticed this:

-After reaching running temperature, my care idled at 108F. This was in very hot weather. For comparison, my car before divorcing had iat's of 108 when running at 80mph with air going over the HX. So that was a huge improvement.

-running temperature was 92 degrees, which was almost exactly 20 degrees over ambient.

-did a quick 3rd gear pull from 3k rpms which would usually send my iat's to 170+, but they barely went over 140F now. Massive improvement.

I'm going to let the auto bleed line do its thing for a few days and purge the remaining air that may be in the loop and then do logs, but I can tell you this has yielded a huge difference for me. Really happy with the outcome so far

Sent from my Llama using Tapatalk

What pcv breather hose are you referring to? Do you have a picture?


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[AudiC7Owners]

What pcv breather hose are you referring to? Do you have a picture?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThis one. Comes off the top of the pcv https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210711/5a09604e03ead57b46f3fe059f640264.jpg

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[KillrS4]

Is this the PLM coolant expansion tank+PLM coolant reservoir you're talking about? https://privatelabelmfg.com/products/plm-power-driven-audi-coolant-tank-a4-s4-b8-b8-5?_pos=1&_sid=06f02a916&_ss=r
Does it autobleed the system?
Do you have to be divorced to run this?

Rookie questions, I know.
I'm not really mechanically included, so I'd rather drop the money to do my setup right the first time around than to deal with hassle, temp issues, and re-bleeding on the back end. Just trying to do my due dilligence.

The link you posted, that’s the divorce tank. Pretty straight forward install. If you have questions you can refer to the AWE divorce tank install. All the same installation.

Well, you would bleed the system starting with the heat exchanger and then the supercharger intercooler cores. This is the PLM reservoir-
https://privatelabelmfg.com/products/plm-power-driven-audi-reservoir-kit-a4-s4-b8-b8-5
^This tank will give you that thermal capacity you’re looking for.

The smaller divorce coolant reservoir you can buy if u want to divorce the system. C7AudiOwners will have a video coming out on YouTube in a few days here. Just wait for that video he will break down the cooling system and give you a better idea of how it all comes together. You can personally email me [email protected]
I’ll send you a few pictures of my PLM divorced setup with both expansion reservoirs.

[KillrS4]

I didn’t replace it either. Only the pcv. FcpEuro said it’s not needed to be replaced? how did you know there was oil being fed into the supercharger? Any other ways to know how it’s bad?

[AudiC7Owners]

I didn’t replace it either. Only the pcv. FcpEuro said it’s not needed to be replaced? how did you know there was oil being fed into the supercharger? Any other ways to know how it’s bad?After I replaced my pcv I still had a soft code for pcv failure which is a assumption of one is these going bad.

It doesnt send oil to the sc. I'm not exactly sure how it works but when these fail another assumption is continued oil consumption

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[mahhdd]

The link you posted, that’s the divorce tank. Pretty straight forward install. If you have questions you can refer to the AWE divorce tank install. All the same installation.

Well, you would bleed the system starting with the heat exchanger and then the supercharger intercooler cores. This is the PLM reservoir-
https://privatelabelmfg.com/products/plm-power-driven-audi-reservoir-kit-a4-s4-b8-b8-5
^This tank will give you that thermal capacity you’re looking for.

The smaller divorce coolant reservoir you can buy if u want to divorce the system. C7AudiOwners will have a video coming out on YouTube in a few days here. Just wait for that video he will break down the cooling system and give you a better idea of how it all comes together. You can personally email me [email protected]
I’ll send you a few pictures of my PLM divorced setup with both expansion reservoirs.

Super helpful.

[RoofRails]

This one. Comes off the top of the pcv https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210711/5a09604e03ead57b46f3fe059f640264.jpg

Sent from my Llama using TapatalkDid this solve your issue of the continued PCV soft code ?

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[sivletho]

Would this be considered the 1 way check valve?
I knew I should of replaced this part lol


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[AudiC7Owners]

Did this solve your issue of the continued PCV soft code ?

Sent from my SM-N986U using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)So far no code has returned... But it looks like I'm still burning oil :/
Would this be considered the 1 way check valve?
I knew I should of replaced this part lol


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYes this is the breather hose with check valve

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[jason bouchard]

I dit it and got it. What is your question ? 239128


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Audizine Forum

Hey, just trying to see how to best apply a bigger second reservoir - I am running divorced, AWE coldfront HX and AWE coldfront cylinder reservoir with the stock pump

Thanks

[gsxr_wrx]

Anyone ever compare the CWA-100 vs the AWE cold front pump?


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[serg72]

Anyone ever compare the CWA-100 vs the AWE cold front pump?


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There is a good topic where man has done a lot of research on the air cooling system. After reading carefully, you can understand a lot for yourself and draw certain conclusions.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/929617-Yet-another-cooling-(IC-HX)-thread-kind-of-nerdy

[AudiC7Owners]

Got my diy video done on divorcing the sc loop

https://youtu.be/Vzdndop7zpEhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210721/40a4b5ca71d631e6b5c96bde763cb775.jpg

Sent from my Llama using Tapatalk

[mahhdd]

I probably shouldn't bump both threads; but, I'm going to anyways because some may not be subscribed to the CWA thread.

Stage 1. Just picked up the car up and did some logs.

On the Stock HX (75F degree day) it was 51C to 70.5C on the first run, then 54C to 75C on the 2nd run. I had let the car cool for about 5 minutes in between the runs.

I just did logs with the S6 HX and CWA 100 (85F degrees) and it was 42.75C at the start of the first pull and 60C peak temp at the end of the third pull... I did these back-to-back-to-back pulls; no cooldown in between! There was limited traffic, so I just knocked them out quick. This is also a 10F warmer day!!

I don't think it's placebo; but, the car felt more responsive on the drive back to my house.

The recovery time with the CWA 100 is nutso fast!!! We did the 100% PWM wire depin. I'm NOT on a divorced coolant loop either.

I'm supposedly on a 60/40 water-antifreeze mix with water wetter; but, I need to check this with my Coolant checker

[Sendit_S4]

Another rookie question... Does cutting the signal wire cause any codes or CEL?

[irish07]

Another rookie questions... Does cutting the signal wire cause any codes or CEL?

Code=Yes
CEL=No

I’ve tuned my own car and removed the code, which is P190C.


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[mahhdd]

Another rookie questions... Does cutting the signal wire cause any codes or CEL?


Code=Yes
CEL=No

I’ve tuned my own car and removed the code, which is P190C.


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This. Saw it yesterday... It shows up under the Engine component in VCDS. This is what they call a "Soft Code" because it shows up but doesn't trigger a light on the dash.

[MSq5]

Another rookie question... Does cutting the signal wire cause any codes or CEL?

Yes. See other post above this. I installed a switch for that middle wire. I leave the circuit closed (signal working) except when making Dragy runs or multiple back to back full throttle pulls. Then, I flip the switch to "off" which lets the pump run all the time the engine is running - 100% duty cycle. I'm still on the OEM CWA 50, so I'm not sure running the pump 100% makes much difference.

[tmoe]

Was the CWA50 PWM controlled for your test or was it running all the time? And how about for the CWA100-3? Thank you for sharing your data.

Answering an old question about my test results comparing CWA50 to CWA100-3 both pumps were PWM controlled. I haven't tested 100% vs PWM as I've been happy with IAT's in current config. Would still like to figure out how ti get rid of soft code, a little confusing as PWM works.

[01northernS4]

Yes. See other post above this. I installed a switch for that middle wire. I leave the circuit closed (signal working) except when making Dragy runs or multiple back to back full throttle pulls. Then, I flip the switch to "off" which lets the pump run all the time the engine is running - 100% duty cycle. I'm still on the OEM CWA 50, so I'm not sure running the pump 100% makes much difference.

I've done the exact same thing with the switch and despite reading previous posts here stating Unitronic already runs at 100%, I see a big difference running the pump at 100%... stays cooler longer, able to be within 10 to 15 degrees of ambient...

Strange...

[JoedreddUK]

So after 2 years of fitting the CWA100 to my 2009 B8, I now have the P190C soft code come up for no reason.

Any idea on how I can stop this happening? I used the Tecomotive kit


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[BrokeBichB8]

Pierburg experts please help:

I went to the junkyard and pulled a pump off an early 2010-2011? A6.

The pump has 4F0 965 567 on it. Also, 7.01360.11.0

From research CWA-100 has part # 4H0 965 567 So I am wondering if this may be an early revision??

Can you tell me if this pump is anyway better than the current CWA50 on my s4?

Thank you

[RoofRails]

Pierburg experts please help:

I went to the junkyard and pulled a pump off an early 2010-2011? A6.

The pump has 4F0 965 567 on it. Also, 7.01360.11.0

From research CWA-100 has part # 4H0 965 567 So I am wondering if this may be an early revision??

Can you tell me if this pump is anyway better than the current CWA50 on my s4?

Thank youHere is a good resource for information on those pumps.

https://www.tecomotive.com/en/products/CWA100.html

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[BrokeBichB8]

Here is a good resource for information on those pumps.

https://www.tecomotive.com/en/products/CWA100.html

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Bro thank you for kindness but I have studied that page till my eyes bled. I am wondering if there is any way A6 pumps were designed with more flow/power for bigger vehicle? I thought possible when I couldnt find the part number. I was just hoping if there was any way to decipher the power of the pump from part #. When I research the part number I cannot find a replacement and I wonder why. Thanks

[RoofRails]

Bro thank you for kindness but I have studied that page till my eyes bled. I am wondering if there is any way A6 pumps were designed with more flow/power for bigger vehicle? I thought possible when I couldnt find the part number. I was just hoping if there was any way to decipher the power of the pump from part #. When I research the part number I cannot find a replacement and I wonder why. ThanksI see. I believe the answer you are looking for is No... The CWA - 50 pump you grabbed off of a A6 is no different then the one on a S4 as far as flow is concerned.

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[ANMS4]

We bought this for my buddys SQ5 and AITs are horrible way higher than stock, I feel like the pumps not running at all. I though I read here somewhere that the harness may need to repined on some cars? But can’t find it :/

[RoofRails]

We bought this for my buddys SQ5 and AITs are horrible way higher than stock, I feel like the pumps not running at all. I though I read here somewhere that the harness may need to repined on some cars? But can’t find it :/The pin out is always the same but double check it because someone could have screwed up the harness that came with it. If it's pinned correctly then remove the signal wire and the pump should go into emergency (100%) mode.

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[bajan01]

Here is the harness from the CWA100-3 that I purchased from Tecomotive. The flat end of the large connector that connects to the pump itself is towards the top of all of these pictures. The top (purple, signal) and middle (red, +12V power) wires cross from one end to the other.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211015/4cdd5f34d1819575368681db6f14e215.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211015/7a8b2d4baa9bc53d123a63e2cc7c306a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211015/ade7b75f504814968c2bc05ef4adefd4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211015/4724542b9908fc6c7d67e06f71c1fed6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211015/7e0545d9242fc4fa854bdf4cdfffe708.jpg

[ANMS4]

^^ thanx guys

[sepheroth86]

Question: how does one test the pump using VCDS? I have a feeling that my original CWA50 is not functioning correctly. Shouldn't it make some noise?

[bajan01]

Question: how does one test the pump using VCDS? I have a feeling that my original CWA50 is not functioning correctly. Shouldn't it make some noise?

Not sure about VCDS other than looking for sky high IATs on a datalog. It should but it might not be loud enough for old ears. You should be able to at least feel a vibration when you touch it and lock/unlock the car or open a door.

[djn876]

Question: how does one test the pump using VCDS? I have a feeling that my original CWA50 is not functioning correctly. Shouldn't it make some noise?Under engine, output tests, there is one for the charge cooler pump. It will basically just run the pump at a few different speeds and you can hear it respond and watch the PWM signal change at the same time if you monitor as well.

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[englishbay]

I ordered a pump from mercracing it is DOA. Anyone else have problems with the pump not getting a signal? The Audi cable that mercracing provides was test to be ok, the pump just wouldn't run. Sent a request for an RMA from mercracing but haven't heard back yet.

[djn876]

I ordered a pump from mercracing it is DOA. Anyone else have problems with the pump not getting a signal? The Audi cable that mercracing provides was test to be ok, the pump just wouldn't run. Sent a request for an RMA from mercracing but haven't heard back yet.Did you try running it without the signal wire? And verify the wiring was pinned correctly?

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[RoofRails]

I ordered a pump from mercracing it is DOA. Anyone else have problems with the pump not getting a signal? The Audi cable that mercracing provides was test to be ok, the pump just wouldn't run. Sent a request for an RMA from mercracing but haven't heard back yet.Make 100% certain the pin out on the connectors are correct. Scroll back into this thread for pictures of what they should be. When I recieved mine the positive and ground wires were incorrectly pinned and the pump wouldn't run. Once we swapped them out it was golden. After that definitely de-pin the signal wire. Some vehicles work with the signal wire hooked up and some don't. It's worth a try before sending it back.

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[englishbay]

Did you try running it without the signal wire? And verify the wiring was pinned correctly?


Make 100% certain the pin out on the connectors are correct. Scroll back into this thread for pictures of what they should be. When I recieved mine the positive and ground wires were incorrectly pinned and the pump wouldn't run. Once we swapped them out it was golden. After that definitely de-pin the signal wire. Some vehicles work with the signal wire hooked up and some don't. It's worth a try before sending it back.

Thanks I will try that, the mechanic did check the harness, but we will double check running without the signal wire

[BrokeBichB8]

Just bought the proper plug off amazon and repinned the ends of the wires for my CWA 100. Below is a picture of my stock CWA50 plug with wires shown. I kinda had a hard time making sure the pinout was correct prior to cutting. But from documents, middle wire (blue/yellow) is signal and was left disconnected Brown I assumed to be ground per usual. Yellow/Red was hot 12v. I am doing PCV, water pump, thermostat at this time so gonna be changing coolant ratio as well and hoping for SOME ICY IATS lol

https://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_34681.jpg

[Fresh.S4]

im running 98% water and a splash of water wetter for color. on the freeway cruising i can get it down to 17* above ambient. still using the cwa50 @100% duty

[englishbay]

Thanks I will try that, the mechanic did check the harness, but we will double check running without the signal wire

The mechanic got the pump working by cutting the signal wire. So glad that I don't have to return it. Now I have a fault code tho for the signal wire. Anyone been able to use VDS or some other tool to get rid of the fault? Luckily its not a check engine light.

[AudiC7Owners]

The mechanic got the pump working by cutting the signal wire. So glad that I don't have to return it. Now I have a fault code tho for the signal wire. Anyone been able to use VDS or some other tool to get rid of the fault? Luckily its not a check engine light.It's a soft code that will always be there, but won't trigger a cel

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[englishbay]

It's a soft code that will always be there, but won't trigger a cel

Great thanks

[djn876]

Yup, code ain't going anywhere. If it makes you feel better, mine will run and vary speed based on the PWM signal, but I still get the soft code.

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[Creepynoodle]

Hey guys, ended up snagging a used cwa100-2 for a great price.
Where can i get a plug&play harness from in the US? Hoping they're in stock. Thanks!

[low612]

So the cwa100-2 is 4 pin to the audio 3 pin. So one of the ground pins on the pump isn't used or do we double the ground coming from the Audi harness?

[BrokeBichB8]

So the cwa100-2 is 4 pin to the audio 3 pin. So one of the ground pins on the pump isn't used or do we double the ground coming from the Audi harness?

I read that one of the pins is like a return communication line?? someone might be able to explain it better, but guys on the mustang forum just run it wide open two wire.

[low612]

Yeah , I'm guessing just use ground ,pwm,and 12v power from cat and going to pump. Which would eliminate using the signal pin on pump.

[stapan]

Hey guys very interesting thread!

Quick question... I am buying a CWA150 with connector kit to install on my dual pulley 2016 Q5 3.0T w/merc quad pass hx.

I am confused about what is needed to make this work. Can I install it essentially plug and play where the original pump is after verifying the pins (and possibly cutting the signal wire if it doesn't work on my vehicle)? As a single pump I shouldn't need any additional brackets or hose connections? Also I am reading that the current draw is 15a and the original wiring is fused for 15a so I am wondering if I can get away without a relay if I use the OEM PWM signal. Is there some other method to reduce the duty cycle or current draw slightly just in case?

[michael.kaemmer]

Beware of pressure rates from CWA150!
High pressure no more volume!

Different connector. ECU will most probably not control pump via PWM correctly as 150 needs signal to slower speed or to start. So not sure. Try using without PWM signal so pump will run in emergency mode.


DS1 stage 2 on direct waste gate control plus TCU tune, Inter Cooler Spacer 1", upgraded throttle body 49mm bores, SRM short inlet pipe plus RS airbox, Sport RS exhaust, Race sparks and RS break rotors

[michael.kaemmer]

Hey guys very interesting thread!

Quick question... I am buying a CWA150 with connector kit to install on my dual pulley 2016 Q5 3.0T w/merc quad pass hx.

I am confused about what is needed to make this work. Can I install it essentially plug and play where the original pump is after verifying the pins (and possibly cutting the signal wire if it doesn't work on my vehicle)? As a single pump I shouldn't need any additional brackets or hose connections? Also I am reading that the current draw is 15a and the original wiring is fused for 15a so I am wondering if I can get away without a relay if I use the OEM PWM signal. Is there some other method to reduce the duty cycle or current draw slightly just in case?

Look at Tecomotive.de to find control unit to run this pump with lower amps.


DS1 stage 2 on direct waste gate control plus TCU tune, Inter Cooler Spacer 1", upgraded throttle body 49mm bores, SRM short inlet pipe plus RS airbox, Sport RS exhaust, Race sparks and RS break rotors

[stapan]

Beware of pressure rates from CWA150!
High pressure no more volume!

I thought its ok with Merc Quad Pass? Am I making a mistake by trying to use it? Please help me understand as I am a newbie when it comes to this subject.

[Albertaholdings]

I thought its ok with Merc Quad Pass? Am I making a mistake by trying to use it? Please help me understand as I am a newbie when it comes to this subject.Just run it without the PWM and be happy.

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[acid88]

Just bought the proper plug off amazon and repinned the ends of the wires for my CWA 100. Below is a picture of my stock CWA50 plug with wires shown. I kinda had a hard time making sure the pinout was correct prior to cutting. But from documents, middle wire (blue/yellow) is signal and was left disconnected Brown I assumed to be ground per usual. Yellow/Red was hot 12v. I am doing PCV, water pump, thermostat at this time so gonna be changing coolant ratio as well and hoping for SOME ICY IATS lol

https://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_34681.jpg

Am I getting it right that you've just repinned the original plug? Does it fit the connector on the cwa100-3 ?

[irish07]

Am I getting it right that you've just repinned the original plug? Does it fit the connector on the cwa100-3 ?

No, cwa50 pins/connector are getting cut off. New leads get soldered or crimped and then inserted into the cwa100 connector.


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[Slvrbul8]

Is this the plug and play kit or is there still possible wire cutting that needs to happen?

https://tecomotive.com/store/en/bundles/audi-cwa50-to-cwa100-3-adapter-kit

[michael.kaemmer]

Yes, exactly


DS1 stage 2, TCU tune, Inter Cooler Spacer 1", upgraded throttle body 49mm bores, SRM short inlet pipe plus RS airbox, Sport RS exhaust, Race sparks and RS break rotors

[Kokoruda119]

I wish the photos would loan on very first post i need pin diaghram for 100-2 to stock plug...

[SeaBings]

I wish the photos would loan on very first post i need pin diaghram for 100-2 to stock plug...This?297908

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[mjessup]

I'm now getting the error code P190E00
I got the cwa100-3 installed by my mechanic


Is there anything to worry about? I believe he wired in the PWN wire.

[RoofRails]

I'm now getting the error code P190E00
I got the cwa100-3 installed by my mechanic


Is there anything to worry about? I believe he wired in the PWN wire.Are you monitoring your IAT ? That pump is likely not running correctly or not running at all. You need to de-pin the signal wire.

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[mjessup]

Are you monitoring your IAT ? That pump is likely not running correctly or not running at all. You need to de-pin the signal wire.

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I haven't been monitoring my IATs yet; looking to get a P3 gauge soon for that.

I'll look into de-pinning the signal wire; after looking over this forum, I think that would be best, especially as I'm about to start running E40.

[AudiA4_20T]

I'm now getting the error code P190E00
I got the cwa100-3 installed by my mechanic


Is there anything to worry about? I believe he wired in the PWN wire.

Got the same error on mine unfortunately. Checked the wiring to make sure it was right. Ended up pulling the pin out of the adapter side since none of my pin tools could get the pin out of the CWA100 connector. I unplugged/replugged it to make sure and it's working but I wish it worked like factory

[mjessup]

Got the same error on mine unfortunately. Checked the wiring to make sure it was right. Ended up pulling the pin out of the adapter side since none of my pin tools could get the pin out of the CWA100 connector. I unplugged/replugged it to make sure and it's working but I wish it worked like factory

Glad to hear I'm not the only one.

I went ahead and just cut the PWN cable next to the connector that was plugged into the CWA100. It was obvious how much more flow I had when I opened the door and heard the pump start-up. I honestly don't mind it running at 100%; good peace of mind as I know I'll always be getting the lowest temps.

[RoofRails]

Glad to hear I'm not the only one.

I went ahead and just cut the PWN cable next to the connector that was plugged into the CWA100. It was obvious how much more flow I had when I opened the door and heard the pump start-up. I honestly don't mind it running at 100%; good peace of mind as I know I'll always be getting the lowest temps.Awesome , mine has been running full 100% since I installed it, and it's still running strong. The only downside i can see is if you are sitting with the car keyed up but not started, the pump is running, so be mindful of your battery.

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[Fresh.S4]

Awesome , mine has been running full 100% since I installed it, and it's still running strong. The only downside i can see is if you are sitting with the car keyed up but not started, the pump is running, so be mindful of your battery.

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You can't state a positive and cancel it with a negative lol.

Running 100% is fine

[sage0607]

For anyone on the fence about upgrading this coolant pump its totally worth it. Vancity audi did a test of this pump and it lowered his iat by 6.75c-7.5c. For reference he also tested iat before and after s6 heat exchanger from mercracing vs stock heat exchanger on an s4 and that lowered iat by 10c

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[mjessup]

Awesome , mine has been running full 100% since I installed it, and it's still running strong. The only downside i can see is if you are sitting with the car keyed up but not started, the pump is running, so be mindful of your battery.

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I was thinking about setting up some relay to keep the signal wire connected unless there is power on a breaker that's only on when the engine is running.

I have noticed my battery voltage is lower whenever I start the engine after it's been sitting overnight. I'd like to keep my battery for as long as possible; I've already had to replace it once, which cost $400.

[RoofRails]

I was thinking about setting up some relay to keep the signal wire connected unless there is power on a breaker that's only on when the engine is running.

I have noticed my battery voltage is lower whenever I start the engine after it's been sitting overnight. I'd like to keep my battery for as long as possible; I've already had to replace it once, which cost $400.The pump is definitely not pulling voltage when the key is off and you haven't done anything to trigger a prime like hit the key fob or open a door. It shouldn't be causing any additional drain on your battery when the vehicle is sitting and not being interacted with. Could you set up a relay that functions on a switched power source ? Sure you can , is it going to have an impact on your battery voltage, I don't believe it will.

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[SwankPeRFection]

Guys, it’s been a while…

Wanted to put out a possible warning and also ask for assistance with Tecomotive.

I bought a CWA100-3 from him less than 6 months ago and it failed mechanically (VCDS code reported mechanical failure) as of last month. I’ve since exhausted all contact options trying to reach out to the guy for a warranty replacement for the pump and have gotten ZERO responses. That’s NOT good business at all and so I urge you guys to think twice before buying pumps from Tecomotive. I have emailed, called, texted, messaged him via the website and even via eBay for his account there and the guy is a ghost. Hell, I even tried going to Pierburg directly, but of course they handle warranty claims through their resellers and won’t do anything directly for the end user.

What sucks the most is that he’s the only one that seems to have stock on these pumps and good prices, but this is ridiculous! If he has an account on here or someone knows of a way to bring him attention to this matter and get it resolved, I welcome it. I’m just not feeling the idea of buying another pump outright when this one is under manufacturer’s warranty and HE SHOULD BE STANDING BEHIND WHAT HE SELLS!!!

Also, in terms of failure info, I’m positive it’s a failed pump. First failure actually blew Fuse 18 in the ECU box which took out both cam adjusters, the sensors for the engine mounts and the pump itself. Tracked that down and replaced. Pump ran again for a couple of days and failed, this time with a mechanical failure code. Fuse was fine and no other codes. Put in my old CWA50 and it’s been fine for 2 weeks. Definitely just a pump that crapped out and needs to be replaced under warranty, just can’t get Tobias to freaking respond, which is kind of shitty of him.

[sage0607]

Guys, it’s been a while…

Wanted to put out a possible warning and also ask for assistance with Tecomotive.

I bought a CWA100-3 from him less than 6 months ago and it failed mechanically (VCDS code reported mechanical failure) as of last month. I’ve since exhausted all contact options trying to reach out to the guy for a warranty replacement for the pump and have gotten ZERO responses. That’s NOT good business at all and so I urge you guys to think twice before buying pumps from Tecomotive. I have emailed, called, texted, messaged him via the website and even via eBay for his account there and the guy is a ghost. Hell, I even tried going to Pierburg directly, but of course they handle warranty claims through their resellers and won’t do anything directly for the end user.

What sucks the most is that he’s the only one that seems to have stock on these pumps and good prices, but this is ridiculous! If he has an account on here or someone knows of a way to bring him attention to this matter and get it resolved, I welcome it. I’m just not feeling the idea of buying another pump outright when this one is under manufacturer’s warranty and HE SHOULD BE STANDING BEHIND WHAT HE SELLS!!!

Also, in terms of failure info, I’m positive it’s a failed pump. First failure actually blew Fuse 18 in the ECU box which took out both cam adjusters, the sensors for the engine mounts and the pump itself. Tracked that down and replaced. Pump ran again for a couple of days and failed, this time with a mechanical failure code. Fuse was fine and no other codes. Put in my old CWA50 and it’s been fine for 2 weeks. Definitely just a pump that crapped out and needs to be replaced under warranty, just can’t get Tobias to freaking respond, which is kind of shitty of him.Wow that's quite ridiculous and shady af. I personally love the support from Mercracing that's where I would tell everyone to buy these pumps from

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[SwankPeRFection]

Wow that's quite ridiculous and shady af. I personally love the support from Mercracing that's where I would tell everyone to buy these pumps from

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Ironically, I even reached out to Jose to see if he had any back channel pull with Pierburg and could help in any way. He wasn’t able to, but guess what?… he responded back in a day or so. At least he’s a stand up guy for that. Just wish his pricing was better. Seems like everyone in the States is demanding high $3xx or more for them, which is ridiculous if you ask me.

[Shane Horning]

Ironically, I even reached out to Jose to see if he had any back channel pull with Pierburg and could help in any way. He wasn’t able to, but guess what?… he responded back in a day or so. At least he’s a stand up guy for that. Just wish his pricing was better. Seems like everyone in the States is demanding high $3xx or more for them, which is ridiculous if you ask me.I've been running 2 cwa50 t'd together for a few years now with good results

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[Fresh.S4]

I've been running 2 cwa50 t'd together for a few years now with good results

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1000000%
I'm also running dual cwa50s (opposite ends of the hx).
Paying $300+ for those cwa100/150 pumps is stupid.
Cwa50s work just as well and barely cost anything.

[SwankPeRFection]

For me a clean install is important. I didn’t pay that much for the pump via Tecomotive because his prices are less, but he’s hiding behind German merchant protection laws on this by not responding. I’ll be posting a PSA thread on Monday to make sure NOBODY buys from him ever again. That will happen on all the other car forums that have use for these pumps. Cadillac, Corvette, any and all. It’s a matter of principal now. The man can’t respond, even with a simple “can’t do anything because Pierburg warranty sucks, sorry”. Fuck him!

[sage0607]

I've been running 2 cwa50 t'd together for a few years now with good results

Sent from my SM-G781U using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Possible to run cwa100 with a cwa50?

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[sage0607]

1000000%
I'm also running dual cwa50s (opposite ends of the hx).
Paying $300+ for those cwa100/150 pumps is stupid.
Cwa50s work just as well and barely cost anything.In the grand scheme of things paying like 200 for the cwa100 isn't an expensive mod.

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[RoofRails]

Possible to run cwa100 with a cwa50?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)This is a long read but has a lot of high-level data backed results. Most of it is on the 4.0TT, but the principles still apply. I think the OP hits on just about every combination of pump there is in this thread.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=929617

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[sage0607]

This is a long read but has a lot of high-level data backed results. Most of it is on the 4.0TT, but the principles still apply. I think the OP hits on just about every combination of pump there is in this thread.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=929617

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Man I really appreciate it bro. I'll read through that

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[Fresh.S4]

In the grand scheme of things paying like 200 for the cwa100 isn't an expensive mod.

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maybe, maybe not. but $200 for something that really doesnt do much for temps, is a no go for me.

[sage0607]

maybe, maybe not. but $200 for something that really doesnt do much for temps, is a no go for me.Vancity audi tested it and it lowered his temps by like 7.5c a typical heat exchanger upgraded lowers temps by like 10c so I definitely wouldn't say it doesn't do much for temps. The only people who seem to say it does nothing is the people who haven't even logged before and after with it. That's just my 2 cents though. I think I'm going to try to do the cwa50 with my cwa100 as well. When I run nitrous my car gets pretty cooled down as is though

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[SwankPeRFection]

maybe, maybe not. but $200 for something that really doesnt do much for temps, is a no go for me.

Depends on how you drive your car I guess. For me it did make a difference on top of the heat exchanger I run. I ran for a year+ with just the CWA50 and the upgraded heat exchanger and thought I wouldn’t see much difference, but I was surprised with the CWA100. Sustained speed runs no longer saw temps climb as high and recovery was way quicker. Coupled with the EPL duty cycle ramp-up their tune does, everything is cold to the touch in the supercharger loop. Before and now (since I’m back to the CWA50) I can put my fingers on the two aluminum pipes after hard runs and they’re warm until the water circulates more. This wasn’t an issue with the CWA100. Simply put, it just circulates a lot more volume of water allowing for faster shedding of heat. There’s definitely a benefit on top of a larger heat exchanger core. It was worth it to me, had the pump not failed prematurely in less than 6 months of use.

[Fresh.S4]

Depends on how you drive your car I guess. For me it did make a difference on top of the heat exchanger I run. I ran for a year+ with just the CWA50 and the upgraded heat exchanger and thought I wouldn’t see much difference, but I was surprised with the CWA100. Sustained speed runs no longer saw temps climb as high and recovery was way quicker. Coupled with the EPL duty cycle ramp-up their tune does, everything is cold to the touch in the supercharger loop. Before and now (since I’m back to the CWA50) I can put my fingers on the two aluminum pipes after hard runs and they’re warm until the water circulates more. This wasn’t an issue with the CWA100. Simply put, it just circulates a lot more volume of water allowing for faster shedding of heat. There’s definitely a benefit on top of a larger heat exchanger core. It was worth it to me, had the pump not failed prematurely in less than 6 months of use.

And where might you be located and with what kind of ambient temps?
That's one thing that no one talks about that plays as much if not more a factor.
I can also touch all my pipes with zero issues, the lines don't get hot like your thinking lol, theirs a big ol fan right in front and a huge mesh grill promoting air flow.
I can smash all day and still stay within 17-20* above ambient and no more than maybe a 50* climb in 90* ambient heat.
I get the "more flow" argument and agree it does on paper flow more. But with OEM lines, that doesn't mean much.

I'm divorced running 99% water @100% duty.

[sage0607]

And where might you be located and with what kind of ambient temps?
That's one thing that no one talks about that plays as much if not more a factor.
I can also touch all my pipes with zero issues, the lines don't get hot like your thinking lol, theirs a big ol fan right in front and a huge mesh grill promoting air flow.
I can smash all day and still stay within 17-20* above ambient and no more than maybe a 50* climb in 90* ambient heat.
I get the "more flow" argument and agree it does on paper flow more. But with OEM lines, that doesn't mean much.

I'm divorced running 99% water @100% duty.As mentioned before vancity audi tested it and it performed very well on before and after logs the difference was very clear. As for divorcing the coolant loop nobody has ever brought up before and after logs of that showing significant difference in cooling potential once the car is fully warmed up. Im not gonna sit and say dual pumps isn't better but for people who prefer ease of installation its a pretty good mod and if your worried about 200-300 bucks I mean there's plenty of used ones online for cheap. I am going to try and set up the dw50 and dw100 to run dual pump myself but there's a lot of folks out there who don't want to bother doing that. I run 3.45 pulley ratio with ported blower and elbow with 100% methanol injection and nitrous and I keep my temps pretty reasonable in summer time even above 90f ambient temps with high humidity. Could it be better with me adding the dw50 for dual pumps absolutely I'm not gonna argue that but these pumps for people with standard pulley ratio is probably more than enough cooling.

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[Fresh.S4]

Meth, nitrous and a cwa100 and you still want to add another pump? Sounds like you ain't happy with your temps 😞

[sage0607]

Meth, nitrous and a cwa100 and you still want to add another pump? Sounds like you ain't happy with your temps [emoji20]Its not like I spray nitrous all the time that would be a big waste of money. And for someone who wants to talk about cooling a whole lot you should know that meth injection doesn't cool down iats nearly as much as people think it does. We are talking about a couple of degrees C difference with 50/50 wmi and even less with 100% methanol. I don't pull timing if that's what your trying to say but lower temps will always be better hence why people do killer chiller on these cars because no matter how much coolant flow you have your iats suffer from the small supercharger bricks. Every 10c you can lower iat you gain roughly 1% more power of course I will strive for the most cooling possible if your trying to max effort this platform such as myself. Most people don't go all out with this platform and for those guys cwa100 is perfectly fine.

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[Fresh.S4]

👍😁

[SwankPeRFection]

And where might you be located and with what kind of ambient temps?
That's one thing that no one talks about that plays as much if not more a factor.
I can also touch all my pipes with zero issues, the lines don't get hot like your thinking lol, theirs a big ol fan right in front and a huge mesh grill promoting air flow.
I can smash all day and still stay within 17-20* above ambient and no more than maybe a 50* climb in 90* ambient heat.
I get the "more flow" argument and agree it does on paper flow more. But with OEM lines, that doesn't mean much.

I'm divorced running 99% water @100% duty.

I’m in an area that sees plenty of hot weather in the spring and summer. Winters see maybe 40 degrees and obviously it is mild. That said, I’m not sure what your arguing point is. You’re running dual 50’s, it’s not like you’re just running one. Trust me, there is a gain with more flow be it dual 50’s or a 100 even with an aftermarket heat exchanger. For me, replacing one pump with one that flows more and plugs right in and still works with variable rate PWM control from the ECU (B8’s can do this on the 100-3, B8.5 cannot) is a better fit than wiring in a second pump. If you believe a 50 is enough with even a larger heat exchanger, why are you running two? For you that was the meaningful compromise to get similar flow if not possibly slightly better than a single 100.

Also, the proof has been documented as the other poster said. More flow from a bigger pump does help with both peak temps and rate of recovery. The video referenced is on YouTube. Also, the runs he made and logged were just simple runs through a few gets and maybe 1/4 mile runs. Try sustained and repetitive runs one after the other without enough cooling mods and you will notice a problem.

Also, the fan isn’t going to cool those pipes, the water inside is what’s indicative of the surface temp on them. Don’t believe me, unplug your pumps and go drive around until you feel power drop off substantially and then check them again and tell me what you feel, even with that fan blowing. Trust me, they get surprisingly hot when there’s no flow, even when you’re not even in positive boost with the supercharger building heat from that. This is how I knew I had a pump issue on the road without a laptop to pull codes when it failed twice. Those pipes were super hot and no flow vibration on the rubber lines coming off the pump and auxiliary heat exchanger which I can put my hands on behind driver’s side headlight.

[Fresh.S4]

Lol so much defensive stories.
I'd still prefer a single and had great temps. The only reason I experimented with 2 was because i wanted to see what the big deal was with those brick adapters to run individual lines. (Which I'm still on the fence about as far as actually being beneficial).
If you guys are satisfied with your upgrade that's great. I'm just here to point out cwa50(s) work great too.

[sage0607]

Lol so much defensive stories.
If you guys are satisfied with your upgrade that's great. I'm just here to point out cwa50(s) work great too.Never said dual pumps don't work tbh bro. Just pointing out why some people would buy it. And also letting people know what kind if temp decrease they can get with it that's all. After all forums are a great location for discussion and talking mods which is what we are doing. Happy Easter btw, if you celebrate it

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[TJUNER_RS4]

Is there anybody suppyling the harness adapter from CWA50 to CWA 100-3 ? Want to upgrade the pump in my RS4 B9.

Thanks

[SwankPeRFection]

Just do a Google search for CWA100-3 and you’ll see a few companies that sell the pump also sell the harness. You may need to call them to buy just the harness.

DO NOT BUY FROM TECOMOTIVE. That guy is a piece of shit ripoff artist hiding behind German business protection laws that don’t favor the consumer.

[TJUNER_RS4]

Just do a Google search for CWA100-3 and you’ll see a few companies that sell the pump also sell the harness. You may need to call them to buy just the harness.

DO NOT BUY FROM TECOMOTIVE. That guy is a piece of shit ripoff artist hiding behind German business protection laws that don’t favor the consumer.

I have the pump already sitting here. I wrote this tecmotive-guy earlier this morning about a harness. But thank you for your hint, in this case I will avoid to buy from him and rather build the harness by myself.

[TJUNER_RS4]

Received a reply from Tecomotive, where he stated, that they don't sell the harness separately.

I've found and ordered now a conversion harness for CWA50 to CWA100-3 at GPO (German Performance Option).

[SwankPeRFection]

Received a reply from Tecomotive, where he stated, that they don't sell the harness separately.

I've found and ordered now a conversion harness for CWA50 to CWA100-3 at GPO (German Performance Option).

What email did you use for the Tecomotive guy? Funny how he responds when it’s a new sale inquiry but not when he has to warranty back a pump he sells. He’s a POS businessman.

[SwankPeRFection]

So everyone knows. The Tecomotive guy apparently is responding to new customer sales inquiries, but if you ever have a problem, he’ll ghost you. Tried reaching out again yesterday and nothing. Don’t ever buy anything from that swindler!!!

[IHave2Turbos]

i bought this and it was shipped super fast, quality is factory or better. worked for my CWA100-3 swap.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/9/products_id/4658

[wrxkyle]

i bought this and it was shipped super fast, quality is factory or better. worked for my CWA100-3 swap.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/9/products_id/4658

ballenger is the go to for just about any car connector you need or pigtail or anything. they're legit.

[killer_s4]

I just picked up a cwa100-3 off eBay and even though it looks like the ones I’ve seen on this thread/online I can’t cross reference any info to confirm it’s a cwa100-3.

This is the info on mine


Made in Germany
7.09042.01.0
24 T 037 01486

4М0. 965.567
VW AG
PTG

[SwankPeRFection]

It looks the part with that connector, etc, but the part number doesn’t line up. Thing is, I know of no other pump made by them that looks like that which aren’t CWA100-3. Maybe it’s a new part number for Audi. I doubt they’d make a CWA50 (flow wise) with the new connectors… makes no sense, unless they wanted to keep connections the same but flow less. The years and engine designations match up with what the other parts numbers would have worked with from Audi though.

[killer_s4]

Yeah it’s physically identical to what I’ve been seeing online. Waiting for the pigtail and going to throw it in. I’m going to get some data before the swap to see if it made a difference.

[SwankPeRFection]

Let me put it this way. If you can hear it and if you can feel a higher vibration on the hoses above the pump right behind the left headlight, then it’s a 100. Feel them with your original 50 so you can see what I’m taking about.

[Truper78]

Hola buenas tardes mi bomba cwa50 falló y quería comprar la bomba cwa100-3. Si quiero que funcione en modo normal sin cortar ningún cable tengo que cortar y cambiar la posición del cableado del arnés Audi para que funcione correctamente? Es para un s4 b8.5 año 2013.

[BrokeBichB8]

Hola buenas tardes mi bomba cwa50 falló y quería comprar la bomba cwa100-3. Si quiero que funcione en modo normal sin cortar ningún cable tengo que cortar y cambiar la posición del cableado del arnés Audi para que funcione correctamente? Es para un s4 b8.5 año 2013.


Para no realizar cambios, necesita el arnés adaptador para convertir el enchufe cwa50 en cwa 100. Consulte publicaciones anteriores con esa información.

Thank god for google translate lol

[Truper78]

Yo tb Dios bendiga América que en España aprendemos mucho de vosotros x esta plataforma. Compraré el kit de tecomotive que ya viene con el arnés. Hoy hablé con Tobías y depende del modelo a veces el cableado del arnés es diferente posición al conector de la bomba cwa50. No quiero estar cortando y soldando cables tan solo llegar y conectar plug&play como decís vosotros. Nosotros decimos cosido y cantar jejeje

[BrokeBichB8]

Con el kit tobias deberías tener una instalación fácil. buena suerte

[SwankPeRFection]

DO NOT BUY from that ripoff artist shithead Tobias at Tecomotive!!!!! He will not stand behind the product and will flat out ghost you.

[DustardCog]

hello i’m sure this might have been mentioned before, just fit a cwa100 with harness from merc racing.

vcds scan
P023B - Short to ground

is this normal, i’m getting around 70 IAT when idle/low speeds going up to 90 at open throttle + the new hx is freezing cold

[EvolutionArmory]

Your IAT’s at idle are irrelevant. They’re going to rise no matter what. What are they when you’re cruising at highway speed?

They should be at 20 above ambient at highway speed and about 30 above ambient at 30-40 MPH.

Your heat exchanger and coolant pump is literally useless without airflow

[RoofRails]

hello i’m sure this might have been mentioned before, just fit a cwa100 with harness from merc racing.

vcds scan
P023B - Short to ground

is this normal, i’m getting around 70 IAT when idle/low speeds going up to 90 at open throttle + the new hx is freezing coldIf those #s are Celsius your that is not normal, and your pump is not working. I would double-check the wiring in the harness that came with the pump. Did you de-Pin the signal wire ?

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[BRadMobile007]

I just picked up a cwa100-3 off eBay and even though it looks like the ones I’ve seen on this thread/online I can’t cross reference any info to confirm it’s a cwa100-3.

This is the info on mine


Made in Germany
7.09042.01.0
24 T 037 01486

4М0. 965.567
VW AG
PTG

There are some images and specs at the beginning of this thread that might help you.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/asset.php?fid=267152&uid=673632&d=1714071051

[Fresh.S4]

Don't cwa100 or 150 come oem on some audis?

[EvolutionArmory]

It has 3 wires. Power, ground and PWM. Disconnect the PWM wire and it runs 100% all the time.


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[Nillious]

It’s best to run the wire through an accessible switch. Winter time you want your pump to slow down. Running 100 percent in 10 degree weather on the highway especially if you have a heat exchanger will kill your fuel mileage. At least it did for me.

[Fresh.S4]

Don't cwa100 or 150 come oem on some audis?

8K0965567B

[Slvrbul8]

It has 3 wires. Power, ground and PWM. Disconnect the PWM wire and it runs 100% all the time.


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Does this cause any codes?

[Nillious]

8K0965567B
This pump at fcp is significantly less than the cwa100 merc or others sell. Is there any reason to not just buy this pump instead? Any actual difference?

[DrGrapeApe]

8K0965567 is a CWA50

https://docs.1aauto.com/PBEWP00005/PI%201833%20Electrical%20Water%20Pumps%20(CWA).pdf

[Fresh.S4]

8K0965567 is a CWA50

https://docs.1aauto.com/PBEWP00005/PI%201833%20Electrical%20Water%20Pumps%20(CWA).pdf

interesting.. because the pump comes only on 4L v8's (audi and porsche).
the other code i see coming up with the same 8k0965567 is 4n0965567

[Slvrbul8]

from what i read you get a 'soft code' on list if u scan with vagcom , but it is not the type of code to trigger check engine light or alter engine behavior

Thank you.

[Silence]

So i recently had a code pop up and saw this thread. Is this a sure sign the pump is done? I have not had any noticeable issues other than the code when i routinely checked. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gUx4AOaYr4qWn3vlHK9N-ulz2GWMrLSe/view?usp=drive_link

If so, where's best place to purchase the CWA-100 now?

331185

[Silence]

hello i’m sure this might have been mentioned before, just fit a cwa100 with harness from merc racing.

vcds scan
P023B - Short to ground

is this normal, i’m getting around 70 IAT when idle/low speeds going up to 90 at open throttle + the new hx is freezing cold

Did you ever get this sorted and what was the issue if so?

- - - Updated - - -


If those #s are Celsius your that is not normal, and your pump is not working. I would double-check the wiring in the harness that came with the pump. Did you de-Pin the signal wire ?

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Why would it need a de-pin with the harness?

[Silence]

Just checking back on best place to order the cwa-100 from. Please advise for anyone that has purchased recently.

[Ibuckfitches]

Just checking back on best place to order the cwa-100 from. Please advise for anyone that has purchased recently.

Mercracing and Gas sells them I’m pretty sure. Also with the harness.


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[Silence]

got it. thank you

[Silence]

Quick update - just installed pump and harness from Merc Racing and the previous P190D code went away, but i have a p190C code now for no signal, even though pump appears to be working fine.

Is this normal and if so, any work around to have it go away?

[Silence]

Anyone have this same code with the cwa-100 pump and harness?

[RoofRails]

Fred
Quick update - just installed pump and harness from Merc Racing and the previous P190D code went away, but i have a p190C code now for no signal, even though pump appears to be working fine.

Is this normal and if so, any work around to have it go away?, +

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[Solarian]

Hello,
I ended up ordering the 4NO.965.567 directly from the dealer, as it is much easier (and cheaper) to get in Canada than a non-VAG CWA-100. This is what I received: https://i.imgur.com/wYu9Luv.jpeg
It looks almost identical to what I saw at the start of the thread, but the part number on mine is 7.04934.14.0 vs 7.04934.54.0. I'd like to think that this is just because it's made for VAG vs generic but wanted to see if anyone else's looked like this.

[Solarian]

Looking through the internet more, I found a reference to a 7.04934.04.0 being interchangeable with the 7.04934.54.0, so it is likely that the 14 is an updated or regionally different version of the 04.
https://i.imgur.com/Ov9wah8.jpeg

I'll install it and hope for the best, but wanted to share here in case more people end up with this pump.

[bguild]

Crew: can anyone here help me? I thought I had a dead CWA100, so I swapped back to a CWA50, yet the pump isn't working at all. Now I'm beginning to think it's wiring or a fuse or relay. Anyone know what fuse and relay wiring I need to be looking at? Is there any way to use ODIS to run a proper test cycle on this Auxiliary Coolant pump?

[STICK5]

Crew: can anyone here help me? I thought I had a dead CWA100, so I swapped back to a CWA50, yet the pump isn't working at all. Now I'm beginning to think it's wiring or a fuse or relay. Anyone know what fuse and relay wiring I need to be looking at? Is there any way to use ODIS to run a proper test cycle on this Auxiliary Coolant pump?

If you have VCDS you can do an output test for the aux water pump. It’ll ramp up 10%, 30%, 60% and so on. My first CWA-100 from Merc Racing died within a few months. I used a multimeter and ran the VCDS test while tapped onto the connector leads on the car side to verify it was the pump and not connection/fuse. With no warranty I wasn’t paying $500 twice so picked up a used CWA-100 from a Cayenne Turbo S that works fine (it doesn’t even inverse the signal like some people have had happen, but does throw soft code for communication). As far as fuses some people have had to upgrade to a higher fuse once they get to the CWA-150 which I believe is in the fuse box between the wipers and ECU.