Weekend Project - Brake Pad and Rotor Change

[Matthew_VA]

Going to attempt a brake pad and rotor change this weekend. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and looks like it's a pretty straight forward install from the DIY threads and videos I've watched. Looking forward to getting these one.

Went with Hawk HPS 5.0 and StopTech Cyro slotted rotors. May have gone a little overboard but a lot of members recommended these!

https://i.imgur.com/Hd2bFKQ.png

[Dannydyn]

Good luck, please report back when done. I'm curious to hear about the bolt holding the front caliper. A Buddy of mine said the factory torque on that bolt was of this world, and he barely managed to get it off. Had to use a breaker bar...

[SDV325]

Good luck, please report back when done. I'm curious to hear about the bolt holding the front caliper. A Buddy of mine said the factory torque on that bolt was of this world, and he barely managed to get it off. Had to use a breaker bar...

A breaker bar is a must for sure, I have a 18" and a 24" breaker bar and found the carrier bolts quite easy to get off with those bars.

Getting the front rotors off was another story.
https://i.imgur.com/umewqEO.jpg

Took a good 30mins hammering away. Quick note, spray the inner hub with PB blaster and they come off with only a few whacks!

[hilmar2k]

I think Adams might steal that pattern for their next rotor design.....

[whiped]

Deadblow hammer to get the rotors off works great.

A long breaker bar you can't really get in on the caliper bracket. Check fitment before you buy anything too crazy.

I'd do a fluid flush at the same time.

[RussellM]

Did mine last weekend and had no problem using a long breaker bar as long as the car is high enough off the ground and the wheel turned for better access. Also used a large ‘bearing’ puller to tension the old rotors before hitting with a mallet - came off easily.


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[JeriQo]

for anyone doing a rotor change, just rent this from oreillys.
no banging, just turn that ratchet lefty.

https://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/otc/6075_top3-4.jpg

[onlyaudis]

don't you need a vagcom to reset the rear ?

[hilmar2k]

don't you need a vagcom to reset the rear ?

Or Carista.

[B0bbyB0b]

Ordered a set of EBC slotted rotors and Akebono euro pads this week myself. Let me know how the install goes. The things you mentioned are all pretty common when doing brakes. Good reco on the flush mentioned above. Will be performing that as well when I make the change.


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[Matthew_VA]

I have a 24" breaker bar so I think I'm OK. Good idea on the dead blow hammer. Thanks!



Deadblow hammer to get the rotors off works great.

A long breaker bar you can't really get in on the caliper bracket. Check fitment before you buy anything too crazy.

I'd do a fluid flush at the same time.

[ellwood]

the caliper carrier bolt torque spec is 196 N-m (145 ft-lbs), which is pretty beastly. also, i believe it is recommended to replace these bolts... as far as getting a stuck rotor off, i've had good luck spraying penetrating fluid into the holes for the wheel bolts, then placing a 2x4 on the face of the rotor and beating it with a sledge

edit: that torque spec is for the front rotors

edit2: rear caliper carrier bolt torque spec is 100 N-M + 90 degrees (74 ft-lbs + 90 degrees) and are also recommended to be replaced. the top and bottom bolts are different lengths, but have the same tq spec

Front caliper carrier bolt P/N N91147601
Rear upper caliper carrier bolt P/N N91041702
Rear lower caliper carrier bolt P/N N91126801

[Gkit19986]

Newbie question, I thought to remove the front calipers, a specific sockets are needed? I'm thinking of putting my Bbk on very soon

[Aiserock]

14mm socket IIRC nothing special. Not sure about the caliper carriers, I think 21mm?? I could be off on that.

Don't sweat it minus the elbow grease you gotta put in to remove the caliper carriers, it's easy peasy. F**k it's easy peasy regardless.

[sacandagaD]

14mm socket IIRC nothing special. Not sure about the caliper carriers, I think 21mm?? I could be off on that.

Don't sweat it minus the elbow grease you gotta put in to remove the caliper carriers, it's easy peasy. F**k it's easy peasy regardless.

Yeah, brakes are a 2 on a scale of 5 difficulty scale.

[Matthew_VA]

OK, small problem.

The T30 screw that holds the rotor would not budge...period. I tried everything and unfortunately stripped it. So I drilled it out carefully and then used PB blaster and dead blow hammer the rotor popped off a few hits. Anyone know the specs on the T30 screw so I replace it???

[ValidatedS4]

OK, small problem.

The T30 screw that holds the rotor would not budge...period. I tried everything and unfortunately stripped it. So I drilled it out carefully and then used PB blaster and dead blow hammer the rotor popped off a few hits. Anyone know the specs on the T30 screw so I replace it???

Same thing happened to me. Go to the Audi dealer and ask for that bolt. Get some for the other rotors as well. I went to the VW dealer and they had the same one. The nearest Audi dealer was 30 mins away. VW was down the street. Should be like 2$ per.


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[theweebabyseamus]

Pelican parts shows it as m16x16.

[Matthew_VA]

Thanks guys, appreciate it!

[ellwood]

Pelican parts shows it as m16x16.

small typo, M6x16 P/N N10648301

[Matthew_VA]

Figured, m16 is HUGE! I picked some SS up at the local hardware store. So the first wheel B/R change with the stripped screw took about an hour to complete (first time doing and had to run to hardware store). The second will took only 15 mins! No problems what so ever.

However, the rear wheels are a different story... T30 screw won't budge and one of the caliper carrier bolts will not budge either--it must be torqued to 200+ lb/ft. Very frustrating. The rears are BRUTAL!


small typo, M6x16 P/N N10648301

[Matthew_VA]

OK, that was a learning experience. very straight forward but did have some problems. The biggest issue was the T30 rotor retaining screws--geez! 3 out of four I had to drill out. And one I had to re-tap the hole. An of course I didn't have a metric die and tap set so had to run to the hardware store...

Also the rear caliper carrier bolts were brutally torqued--man... Then I learned that you can remove the rear rotors without having to remove the caliper carriers--there's enough clearance to slide the rotors out so once I learned that it was easy. When I was research, several of the videos I saw had them removing the carriers so there is another easier option.

Took longer than I thought it would--due to dealing with these issues and it being a learning process. The one wheel that the T30 wasn't a problem--I replaced that rotor and pads in 10mins!!

But glad I took this project on!





Good luck, please report back when done. I'm curious to hear about the bolt holding the front caliper. A Buddy of mine said the factory torque on that bolt was of this world, and he barely managed to get it off. Had to use a breaker bar...

[hilmar2k]

This helps with the stuck rotor screws.

Powerbuilt 648002 1/2-Inch Drive Impact Driver Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QO9FK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pleoBbDNCG210

[Silver Streakin]

I finally swapped to summers. I need to do at least thr fronts. That’s the exact setup that I did on my B7 S4.

Where did you buy them?

...looking for 4th sales...