DIY: The guide to 30 minute crank pulley installation - go stage 2 or 2+ in a jiffy

[bhvrdr]

DISCLAIMER: Dont work on your car yourself. You will hurt yourself and destroy your car. I am not responsible for you or your car. Also note this appears to work for most all solid crank pulleys such as JHM and Kustom Imports as well as the Fluidampr solution. It does not appear to work for the APR add on pulley. That one requires service position.
.................................................. .................................................. .............................

I decided to experiment with installing a larger crank pulley on the B8.5 S5 but this will also work the same for the Audi B8.5 S4. I wanted to see just how simple I could make it. I am documenting this method as the quickest way I see to get an overdrive/lightweight/aftermarket crank pulley on the car.

This turned out to be much more simple than the supercharger pulley installation. I hope all the tuners will stop requiring the purchase of their proprietary supercharger pulley because this appears to be a much more hassle free way to go.

First, the thing that took half the amount of time...getting together all the right tools. I had no idea what ones I would need so having these ready to go ahead of time is going to really save you.

TOOLS:

1. M10 12 point metric bit (aka, triple square). If you use the seat puller bits you may want a 13mm socket to use with a socket wrench to turn it.

2. Low profile 3/8 Drive socket wrench

3. T30 Torx Bit with 1/4 Drive Socket Wrench

4. Generic surpentine belt wrench (for tensioners) with 16mm socket

5. Dremel or metal file

6. Whatever bit is required for fastening your new crank pulley bolts

7. Torque wrench

8. A medium sized nail you have sitting around or something like it. (for locking the tensioner in place)

9. A big screwdriver for the belly pan bolts.


STEPS:

1. Raise the car using a safe method such as Race Ramps. Engage parking brake. Chock rear wheels. Double secure your lift using jack stands, blocks, a spare tire, whatever you usually use. Remove your belly pan using a screwdriver.


2.

Using the generic serpentine belt wrench and a 16mm socket, rotate the supercharger belt tensioner clockwise and lock it in place with a nail. Remove the supercharger belt. It slides right out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/bhvrdr/20161211_124207_zpsacbgsqye.jpg


3.

Using the T30 Torx Bit and 1/4 drive socket wrench unfasten the bolt on the bracket of the dual lower hard metal coolant lines. This allows you to move the coolant lines out of the way as you access the 16mm bolt on the main serpentine belt tensioner.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/bhvrdr/20161211_130113_zpskojk11ij.jpg

4.

Again using the generic serpentine belt wrench and a 16mm socket, rotate the main serpentine belt tensioner and remove the belt from the crank pulley pushing it to the rear of the crank pulley. Dont remove the entire belt. Just push it off the crank pulley.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/bhvrdr/20161211_131103_zpsvxldysbh.jpg


5.

Mark the bottom of the stock crank pulley with something sharp or some white-out or whatever you normally use to mark up parts. This is going to save you a tremendous amount of time when you go to install your new crank pulley due to the crank pulley having a single (1) offset hole out of the eight (8) total holes.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/bhvrdr/20161211_131606_zpsn9sjto5r.jpg

6.

Using a low profile 3/8 drive socket wrench with your 12 point M10 metric bit, remove the eight (8) crank pulley bolts from your stock crank pulley. Once removed the crank pulley is sitting on about 3mm worth of hub in the center. Wiggle the crank pulley back and forth a bit and it will slide right off. You could bang it slightly with a rubber mallet but this wasnt necessary on mine that is 3 years old.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/bhvrdr/20161211_131753_zps4y8shusi.jpg


7.

Now line up your old stock crank pulley with your new crank pulley. Line them up so the offset hole is in the same place (orientation) on both pulleys. Now mark a reference point on your new crank pulley just like you did on your stock one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/bhvrdr/20161211_131606_zpsn9sjto5r.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/bhvrdr/20161211_133543_zpsr2fy31kx.jpg

8.

Slide on your new crank pulley and put in each of the eight (8) new bolts torquing them to 20 ft/lbs or whatever the aftermarket manufacturer specs.

Make sure you have the main serpentine belt sitting behind the new crank pulley so that all you have to do is pull it back forward over the pulley once you have the new pulley on. Keep it wrapped around and to the rear of the pulley. Do this by just releasing it off the tensioner.

Make sure you cross torque and go back and check a second time since the first ones may be a bit loose again.


9.

Grind/file down the metal thing that sticks out off of the block. Take 3mm off of it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/bhvrdr/20161211_134239_zpsr43lukq8.jpg

10.

Put the belts back on.

Pull the main serpentine belt back up over the new crank pulley. It should be resting behind it if you oriented it behind it before you installed the new pulley.

Thread your new supercharger belt onto the new crank pulley and supercharger pulley. Using the tensioner, slide it back on and then release the tensioner.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/bhvrdr/20161211_144224_zpsc15tykey.jpg


11.

Dont forget to fasten the hard coolant pipe bracket back into place with that T30 Torx bit.


That's it. You're done. Put the belly pan back on and have some fun.

Mike

[doug97gxe]

wait a min.. i didn't know you had an S5 .. congrats... that A6 was outta there fast

[DBL R]

get an a6 that you can't tune, and all of the sudden you are back to the S world. Welcome back.

[cjw]

So easy without service position?

No issue with getting your hands in there or with belt routing ?

[S4'ed]

Seems that step #9 is out of order...and why do you have to grind that post?

[bhvrdr]

thanks fellas. I fixed an order in there.


yeah, the A6 is a nice car but I just wanted something a bit more sporty.


No service position was needed. I've dealt with tighter spots. This is tight but definitely doable.

Mike

[whiped]

Seems that step #9 is out of order...and why do you have to grind that post?

You grind the mount down as it will interfere with the belt path with larger pulleys

[kelseysautobody]

Nice write up


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[redlinerex]

Thanks for taking the time to write this up. I have a pulley showing up tomorrow and this DIY just convinced me to swap it in at home rather than taking it to a shop.

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[bhvrdr]

Cool. Let me know how long it takes you with all the tools ready.

Mike

[Jay@JXB]

+1 thanks a ton. People like you make the forums a better place. Wouldn't be anything without the dedicated DIY creators.


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[ModItNow]

Awesome write up Mike! I was going to install my fluidampr adapter 183mm thus week. (I already have the main pulley installed) For that one would it be easier to go in from the top or bottom of the car? Sounds like I should grind that nub down too


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[bhvrdr]

Definitely the bottom. Tough to say if fluidamper will need grinding. Might not. Id do a test fit.

Mike

[ModItNow]

Definitely the bottom. Tough to say if fluidamper will need grinding. Might not. Id do a test fit.

Mike

Ok cool thanks. Need to get some ramps!


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[jran76]

Cool, thanks for posting Mike.

Can't you just cut a hole in the belly pan? No one will really notice.... Sorry man, I couldn't resist.

[bhvrdr]

Cool, thanks for posting Mike.

Can't you just cut a whole in the belly pan? No one will really notice.... Sorry man, I couldn't resist.


hahaha, ..... I have no idea what your talking about and i'm sticking to that story. :)

Mike

[13ttaz]

+1 thanks a ton. People like you make the forums a better place. Wouldn't be anything without the dedicated DIY creators.

I whole heartedly agree. Thanks for taking the time to post this DIY Mike!

[jsh139]

Great write-up!

[SR7D1]

Awesome! Subscribed, since I will be doing this in the next few months, hopefully on a lift. [wrench]

[jran76]

hahaha, ..... I have no idea what your talking about and i'm sticking to that story. :)

Mike

What's the plan for tuning?

[bhvrdr]

What's the plan for tuning?

Good question. It appears the car was actually tuned in the past since i found out it is td1. Don't ask how it got certified. Long story. But I do plan to find out at least who the tuner was and perhaps see if theyre somebody I'd like to go with again. I'm also fond of unitronic. We'll see.

[boosty]

thanks fellas. I fixed an order in there.


yeah, the A6 is a nice car but I just wanted something a bit more sporty.


No service position was needed. I've dealt with tighter spots. This is tight but definitely doable.

Mike

My indy mechanic swapped mine out this past summer without front bumper removal / service position. Now I know how he pulled it off.

Glad to see you're back!!

[DBFL]

Mike,

What size pulley did you use? My installer had to pull the front bumper and put it in service position to do the install on mine. But I have a 186mm pulley. He said he had to use the idler pulley that came with the new crank pulley and that to remove the bolt for the idler pulley the car had to be put in service position. I think the bolt was too long to remove otherwise.

[bhvrdr]

200mm

[DBFL]

200mm

Hmm... I wonder why he had to change my idler pulley then.

[bhvrdr]

I wonder if it was because people could only find certain belt sizes.

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[whiped]

I wonder if it was because people could only find certain belt sizes.

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That shouldn't impact it that much. The tensioner pulley can pick up quite a bit of slack.

I was under the impression both KI and FD pulleys were coming with smaller idlers if needed.

[bhvrdr]

Mine is 200mm ki. Stock idler

[whiped]

Interesting, maybe Matt or Issam can jump in and confirm.

Great tutorial BTW Mike.

Not sure if it will help anyone but you can use a T25 to remove all the belly pan screws. [wrench]

[DBFL]

Mine is 200mm ki. Stock idler

That's really interesting. Mine is a KI 186mm and it came with a new idler pulley. Maybe the KI guys can explain.

[Loe]

Great write-up with pics Mike.

Has anyone been able to I.D. what that knub is even there for?

[bhvrdr]

Be interesting to look at the NA v6 versus our SC v6. Wonder if they have something mounted there. Looks like a bracket to hold something in place.

Mike

[cjw]

When we talk offset hole, are we taking offset from the center or slightly different spacing? I have a pulley here and there is zero difference on any hole from what I can see or measure with calipers.

[redlinerex]

When we talk offset hole, are we taking offset from the center or slightly different spacing? I have a pulley here and there is zero difference on any hole from what I can see or measure with calipers.
One bolt hole should be a couple mm or so further out. It is hard to spot. See the original pics in this thread, the knife tip was pointing at the offset hole.

My FD pulley had a couple x's or asterisks stamped on both sides of the offset hole to quickly identify.

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[Boris]

Is it just me, or do the triple squares strip real easy? The m10 twelve point as u call it

Bummed I can't use this method, I stripped one triple square

[cjw]

One bolt hole should be a couple mm or so further out. It is hard to spot. See the original pics in this thread, the knife tip was pointing at the offset hole.

My FD pulley had a couple x's or asterisks stamped on both sides of the offset hole to quickly identify.

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Awesome. I don't think mine has that.

[BillyG]

Excellent write up! This is making me re-think my decision to not go dual pulley. And EPL's group buy has a week left...

Also glad to see you back in a B8, you add a lot to this forum!

[jachien]

Awesome. I don't think mine has that.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161227/f44b5f78503bb74457818be31c2dd545.jpg

Oem pulley has these dots. This is a b8.5 oem crank pulley btw. On the KI pulleys there's a very small punched dot designating the offset hole. I wouldn't even say it's a couple mm. Seems like maybe 1mm offset from pulley center.



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[jachien]

For anyone wanting to go dual pulley ratio without changing out the supercharger pulley, this way is muuuuuuuch easier. You can do it on a lunch break. As far as weight is concerned. The KI 189mm is a bit lighter than the oem pulley. I'm curious how much the 200mm compares in weight to the oem pulley.


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[bhvrdr]

^yup. It really only can be seen visually when you have a good reference point like a perfect circle to intersect the edges of all the holes or as above you can see in the photo above the wear marks from the crank pulley bolts come in contact with the center hub hole with the exception of one of them.

I agree. its like 1mm. My KI pulley had a punch over the hole too. Matty was getting people sending them back thinking the holes were drilled incorrectly when in reality your average mechanic wouldnt likely have noticed the offset hole and just tried to put it on any which way.... dont do that :)


And Billy, thanks! You know you'll end up going DP in the future. You may as well call EPL and get your file while its on sale, hehe.

Mike

[cjw]

I have a KI and there was no punch. I measured every hole with digital calipers and they were all the same distance from center. They assured me it's good, but not a single hole had a 1 mm difference.

I looked at trying the swap today, but I honestly don't think I can pull it off without more room.

[bhvrdr]

If you measured every hole from center id take photos and contact themfor an exchange.

Mike

[cjw]

Can someone measure the offset hole? Every single hole is within 0.04mm of this.

https://i.imgur.com/Ni6PIBt.jpg

[redlinerex]

Can someone measure the offset hole? Every single hole is within 0.04mm of this.

https://i.imgur.com/Ni6PIBt.jpg
Mind posting a photo of the pulley showing the entire bolt circle?

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[cjw]

I can, but they are all the same.

[cjw]

All 29.8X mm

[whiped]

One of the earlier batches of KI pulleys didn't have an offset hole. Most people just drilled one of the holes bigger.

There are a few posts about it somewhere. I'd contact Matt and see what he has to say.

[cjw]

I just bought this this week. No stamped marking. I contacted them and got the " it's good, try it". You know how awesome it is to be an hour into an install, pieces everywhere on the ground and a non functioning car. Then realize the important piece doesn't fit?

The calipers don't lie and I didn't buy this to have to drill it (including a trip to store to buy a drill bit).

[bhvrdr]

I agree with you. Take a photo showing all holes and let Matty know your position. To be honest id prefer not to drill mine either.

Mike

[DaveLinger]

So just to clarify, a person wanting to go stage 2 can swap out just the crank pulley with an overdrive one and get the same crank-to-supercharger ratio as running just an underdrive supercharger pulley? Tune would be identical?

[whiped]

So just to clarify, a person wanting to go stage 2 can swap out just the crank pulley with an overdrive one and get the same crank-to-supercharger ratio as running just an underdrive supercharger pulley? Tune would be identical?

Correct, the ratio is the only important bit. The tune cannot tell what you swapped out to make the SC spin faster.

Here is the table of ratios: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/713242-**OFFICIAL**-Life-Beyond-Stage-II-the-higher-pulley-ratio-development-thread

[13jfp]

Correct, the ratio is the only important bit. The tune cannot tell what you swapped out to make the SC spin faster.

Here is the table of ratios: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/713242-**OFFICIAL**-Life-Beyond-Stage-II-the-higher-pulley-ratio-development-thread
So how long until we see stage 2+ kits being offered with just a crank pulley?

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[bhvrdr]

GIAC and Unitronic had no issue supporting just my 2+ ratio crank pulley

[13jfp]

GIAC and Unitronic had no issue supporting just my 2+ ratio crank pulley
If GIAC or somebody offered a "super kit". Including a crank pulley, belt, ecu and tcu tune for around $1,500 that would be sweet!

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[13jfp]

If GIAC or somebody offered a "super kit". Including a crank pulley, belt, ecu and tcu tune for around $1,500 that would be sweet!

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That might make me say ....screw TD1.... I'll take the 2+ super kit. Especially if I could install the pulley and load the tune myself. Would just need to address emissions testing issues.

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[sonic32]

That might make me say ....screw TD1.... I'll take the 2+ super kit. Especially if I could install the pulley and load the tune myself. Would just need to address emissions testing issues.

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Your keeping your stock exhaust intact, what emission issues?


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[13jfp]

Your keeping your stock exhaust intact, what emission issues?


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I read some posts about stage 2 cars not passing annual emissions inspection

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[whiped]

I got a KI pulley, it had a marked offset hole but it was 3mm just like all the others. Ended up having to drill it out a bit. Because of this I'd suggest checking the holes with calipers before trying to install.

The hard tubing on my B8.5 has T27 screws not T25s.

It is impossible to change the idler pulleys without going into service position.

I ended up doing it all without removing the bumper but probably could have saved some time and frustration but just going into service position.

Getting the accessory belt back on was a huge PIA, otherwise pretty easy.

[bhvrdr]

Thanks for the correction on bit size. I probably just put the wrong size in there. I edited to reflect T27.

Once you do it once it will go way faster and easier next time. Now I have a rhythm and it goes extremely quickly.

Mike

[whiped]

I had an issue pulling the tensioner pulley for the accessory belt. It kept hitting the side of the pulley so I had to get creative and use a few adapters and remove the top bolt for the coolant lines.

Overall it wasn't too bad. Just spent a bit of time fussing with the pulley as the offset wasn't drilled and filing down the engine standoff thing. I think it took me like 3 hours with a few breaks [rolleyes]

[Dippy]

FYI MRC installed my Vdamper kit (Fluidampr plus 189mm overdrive pulley) earlier this week. It's the first one they have done (normally they fit their own solid overdrive pulley) and so thought that they'd need to use service position. However they managed to install it with the underneath method described in this thread. No grinding was needed.

Also, although maybe only of interest to A6/A7 3.0TFSI owners, mine has the CREC engine and there were no 'compatibility' issues (not that any were expected, but you never know for sure).

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/data/attachments/104/104485-19bdb0f3eaec4c2f7ba252423147b1af.jpg

[cjw]

I have this fear that I can get the old stuff off, but not enough room to get the new pulley in. Specifically the pulley bolts, lining then up and then getting the belt back on.

No clue how you could begin to find a hole to lock the tensioner in place either.

[jachien]

I have this fear that I can get the old stuff off, but not enough room to get the new pulley in. Specifically the pulley bolts, lining then up and then getting the belt back on.

No clue how you could begin to find a hole to lock the tensioner in place either.

You don't need to lock the tensioner in place. I didn't. I just used the wrench again when putting the belt on. I had the belt pre routed and slipped the crank pulley on prior to mounting it.

As for the off set pulley bolt, prior to removing the oem one, I marked an arbitrary part of the crank pulley (the most bottom for example) and when the oem pulley is removed, you can see in what relation the offset bolt hole is to the mark you make. When going to install the new crank pulley, I placed a bolt into the offset hole in the crank pulley prior to slipping on the pulley.

Finger tighten all bolts to ensure you get all bolts in their respective holes.


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[Andrew Lane]

This is a great write up! I searched all over the place looking for a DIY in this for my B8.5 S4, but couldn't find anything anywhere until I was directed here by a fellow member of a Facebook group! I think that this should be added as a sticky for any of the cars with the 3.0 TFSI engine! Thanks

[14S4GWM]

This is a great write up! I searched all over the place looking for a DIY in this for my B8.5 S4, but couldn't find anything anywhere until I was directed here by a fellow member of a Facebook group! I think that this should be added as a sticky for any of the cars with the 3.0 TFSI engine! Thanks

You're welcome buddy, have fun

[bhvrdr]

i was able to tweak the title and throw in some key words that hopefully makes it easier to search for folks. let me know if anyone feels something should be added to the writeup.

mike

[whiped]

We need a sticky of helpful DIYs. Word on the street is we are getting a tech sub forum that should have this.

[jokingjimmy]

Don't remember if I told you how great this is, so in case I didn't, great job and thanks Mike! I'll mess this when I get my Fluidampr OD pulley lol

[bhvrdr]

Thanks guys.

Jimmy I may do the fluidampr yet as well. no issues at all with my KI but I can help the curiosity of doing a back to back independent comparison (acceleration and dyno) testing of solid versus dampened.

[b8s4me]

can anyone link me to a ratchet and triple square socket they used to do this? I've looked everywhere and either the low profile ratchets aren't short enough, or the triple square socket is too long.

[bhvrdr]

can anyone link me to a ratchet and triple square socket they used to do this? I've looked everywhere and either the low profile ratchets aren't short enough, or the triple square socket is too long.

You can use any of the standar seat puller-like triple squares but you need to put a low profile ratchet on it.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-4-piece-12-point-metric-bit-set-ac835/9020064-p&c3ch=PLA&c3nid=9020064-P?iv_=__iv_p_1_a_214327102_g_12425515822_w_pla-284067107235_h_9012010_ii__d_c_v__n_g_x_pla_y_6201 684_f_online_o_9020064-P_z_US_i_en_j_284067107235_s__vi__&utm_source=ACQ&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_content=shoppingcampaigns&gclid=CJ3w7P7YutICFdgDgQoddP0E7A


You can even use these to get the ultimate clearance...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-SAE-Metric-Combination-Ratcheting-Wrench-Set-20-Piece-HRW20PCSM/205191132

These slip right over the triple square bit and add zero to the clearance needed.

[whiped]

I actually needed something with a bit of reach, used a normal socket wrench, small extension and this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XYOUTA/

Also used it to put in my rear sway bar last weekend [up]

[bhvrdr]

I used this as well...

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Xtreme-Access-22-Piece-Pass-Through-Socket-Set/999956372

[b8s4me]

I love you guys, and I mean that in the gayest way possible. Thanks! 😁

[whiped]

You live pretty close to Mike, you can give the extra loving to him [>_<]

BTW, I am still using this 6pk belt I picked up off Amazon as my 7pk hasn't come in yet. (It was $18 at the time with prime shipping: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049BNJDG/)

No issues with belt slip or abnormal wearing yet.

If you need help finding a belt let me know.

[bhvrdr]

You live pretty close to Mike, you can give the extra loving to him [>_<]

BTW, I am still using this 6pk belt I picked up off Amazon as my 7pk hasn't come in yet. (It was $18 at the time with prime shipping: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049BNJDG/)

No issues with belt slip or abnormal wearing yet.

If you need help finding a belt let me know.

I'm cool though.

Good call getting the HD model. Not only they are stronger but they run a bit shorter than the non HD models (ask me how I know). I run a 6pk1335 / k060525 GATES for the 200mm with stock SC pulley and its good. When I tried the HD model I couldnt quite get it over the pulley without doing a bit of damage to it or really torquing it so I stayed with the regular one.

[whiped]

My crude math has 200mm and the stock pulley using ~1345mm

Might give this belt a shot if you wanted to use an HD belt: https://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060525HD-V-Belt/dp/B001R5XUZO (Same as you listed but 5mm longer?)

[Sick S4]

Is an M10 12 pt bit needed? I can't find one anywhere and plan on doing the install tonight?

Thanks


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[whiped]

Yes, you need it to remove the crank pulley.

Auto store or home depot/lowes should have it I would think.

[bhvrdr]

My crude math has 200mm and the stock pulley using ~1345mm

Might give this belt a shot if you wanted to use an HD belt: https://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060525HD-V-Belt/dp/B001R5XUZO (Same as you listed but 5mm longer?)

Yup thats the hd model of the 60525 im using and its significantly shorter despite the same supposed size

[jokingjimmy]

Thanks guys.

Jimmy I may do the fluidampr yet as well. no issues at all with my KI but I can help the curiosity of doing a back to back independent comparison (acceleration and dyno) testing of solid versus dampened.
Hey Mike, you don't happen to have a smaller Fluidampr DP from your S4 days laying around do you? Lol

[bhvrdr]

Hey Mike, you don't happen to have a smaller Fluidampr DP from your S4 days laying around do you? Lol

Haha nope sorry man. I keep trying to convince myself to try one but i really like my current pulley ratio and im just not seeing any issues in the logs at all with the ki solid one.

[Charles]

Just want to confirm/clarify...was this for a swap of a stock SC crank/accessory pulley with an aftermarket accessory/overdrive SC crank pulley? I just purchased a KI one piece accessory/overdrive SC pulley and wanted to confirm I can swap that out with my stock set using this method. In other words, this wasn't you swapping out the overdrive SC ring of a FD pulley, correct?

[bhvrdr]

Just want to confirm/clarify...was this for a swap of a stock SC crank/accessory pulley with an aftermarket accessory/overdrive SC crank pulley? I just purchased a KI one piece accessory/overdrive SC pulley and wanted to confirm I can swap that out with my stock set using this method. In other words, this wasn't you swapping out the overdrive SC ring of a FD pulley, correct?

It was a full crank pulley swap of stock to a ki solid 200mm

[Charles]

It was a full crank pulley swap of stock to a ki solid 200mm

Sweet! I didn't want to crawl up under there and be in for a surprise.

South Florida...West side or East side? My son goes to USF, so I'm in Tampa fairly regularly.

[bhvrdr]

Sweet! I didn't want to crawl up under there and be in for a surprise.

South Florida...West side or East side? My son goes to USF, so I'm in Tampa fairly regularly.

Right on! Ive lived in redington beach before but now palm beach.

[B18b1ex]

Wanted to say thanks for the help Mike!

A little over an hour even with large hands and sprained ring finger. Not bad, but took Mike's advice and had my tools already on hand. Two ramps and the tools in the pic.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170406/6ea93176fb3f1582b94f507a843f8f0d.jpg


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[bhvrdr]

Nice work Sean! Gonna try and hit PBIR tomorrow night. Should at least be lower temps than the 80s tomorrow night. May dip into the 70s. What the hell happened to winter?

Mike

[plev72]

Thanks a bunch for this post - I was planning on trying to change out my pulley for the light weight one (same size), but wasn't sure I'd be able to clear without the whole "service position" thing.

[scalbert]

I was considering trying this method with my APR crank pulley. But thinking about it further, with the extended locations of the bolts, I doubt I could get the hex socket and ratchet in there. Might be able to hand tighten using the socket only and then torque down using an Allen wrench. I'll need to check the gap between the outer face of the pulley and the fan shroud.

[cjw]

I had a tough enoguh time double checking the torque on my pulley. The hard part of this for me would be to get the new pulley in place and be able to get all the bolts in and started.

[Loe]

Nice work Sean! Gonna try and hit PBIR tomorrow night. Should at least be lower temps than the 80s tomorrow night. May dip into the 70s. What the hell happened to winter?

Mike

Looks like a few of us FL boy's will be hitting the track this weekend! A nice cold chill through Sunday...should be interesting

[B18b1ex]

Looks like a few of us FL boy's will be hitting the track this weekend! A nice cold chill through Sunday...should be interesting

First weekend I have had mine in like two months. Hoping for good weather, but since my new Cats the car feels so much better. So i'm happy either way. [emoji39]


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[awwturbo]

Has anyone done this on a B8 pre-facelift car? Doesn't look like there is enough room to get anything in or out.

[AUDacIouS4]

Has anyone run this large of crank pulley without issues? bhvdr, I know your at 200mm and this is relatively the same ratio with the stock SC pulley (3.21)

from the Vdamper site
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170408/b4bc351600baf331920556df96f6de15.jpg

a slave of corruption no longer

[bhvrdr]

You need great cooling and cool climate. I like this 3.17 ratio. Somewhere in the 3.15 ratio is a great ratio for upgraded cooling cars.

[scalbert]

FYI on the APR crank pulley, it cannot be done without going into service position. I just made a new thread on the installation.

[bhvrdr]

FYI on the APR crank pulley, it cannot be done without going into service position. I just made a new thread on the installation.

Thanks man!

[B8Addict]

Has anyone done this on a B8 pre-facelift car? Doesn't look like there is enough room to get anything in or out.

+1

[awwturbo]

For people with B8 s4s, the car has to be in service position for this to be done. There is just not enough room to get at things in the normal position. The major difference being a cooling line that runs parallel with the oil pan. Didn't try to move it as a buddy of mine and I decided it was easier to just get the car in the service position.

Pics:

This is the car in service position with the belts off the OEM pulley.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v645/awwturbo/B8S4-2/0C75020A-A2D0-4009-A1B6-7B26CA904088_zpsm5kpsf5p.jpg

JHM pulley installed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v645/awwturbo/B8S4-2/4C203DF9-16A6-40FA-AF75-665A114DDE70_zpstfm3j4jq.jpg

This process took us 1.5hrs. So, still not bad and much easier with all the extra room in service position.

[B8Addict]

For people with B8 s4s, the car has to be in service position for this to be done. There is just not enough room to get at things in the normal position. The major difference being a cooling line that runs parallel with the oil pan. Didn't try to move it as a buddy of mine and I decided it was easier to just get the car in the service position.

Pics:

This is the car in service position with the belts off the OEM pulley.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v645/awwturbo/B8S4-2/0C75020A-A2D0-4009-A1B6-7B26CA904088_zpsm5kpsf5p.jpg

JHM pulley installed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v645/awwturbo/B8S4-2/4C203DF9-16A6-40FA-AF75-665A114DDE70_zpstfm3j4jq.jpg

This process took us 1.5hrs. So, still not bad and much easier with all the extra room in service position.


Darn... Okay. Is there a DIY on how to get the vehicle in service position? Did a simple search and didn't come up with anything.

[awwturbo]

Darn... Okay. Is there a DIY on how to get the vehicle in service position? Did a simple search and didn't come up with anything.

Heres a link to a video from ECS Tuning. It'll show you how to put it into service position. You don't have to remove the front wheels. Just turn the steering wheel in either direction to full lock and that will give you plenty of room to get at the screws for the fender liner and the bolt on the fender that holds the bumper on.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaPnqkyo0yQ

[B8Addict]

Heres a link to a video from ECS Tuning. It'll show you how to put it into service position. You don't have to remove the front wheels. Just turn the steering wheel in either direction to full lock and that will give you plenty of room to get at the screws for the fender liner and the bolt on the fender that holds the bumper on.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaPnqkyo0yQ

Awesome man, thanks so much!

[niner]

I'm going to install Fluidampr pulley with 187mm ring. Is it easier to attach the outer ring on the main pulley together first, then install them as one unit? or is it better to install the main pulley first, then mount the oversize ring?

I have a B8.5 S4, but I also have the AMS cooling solution, which uses the hard pipe from B8. So I'm afraid I may have to put the car in service position like awwturbo said in post #100. Will find out soon.

[rtl5009]

Will this work for b8.5 s4's? I saw a post that says it doesn't work for b8's and I saw a post your can't change the idler pulleys without going into service position but nothing about if this works for the main crank pulley in and out swap on a b8.5 s4.

TIA

[bhvrdr]

Will this work for b8.5 s4's? I saw a post that says it doesn't work for b8's and I saw a post your can't change the idler pulleys without going into service position but nothing about if this works for the main crank pulley in and out swap on a b8.5 s4.

TIA

I decided to experiment with installing a larger crank pulley on the B8.5 S5 but this will also work the same for the Audi B8.5 S4

;)

[rtl5009]

I was too far in the weeds :0

[tmoe]

I'm going to install Fluidampr pulley with 187mm ring. Is it easier to attach the outer ring on the main pulley together first, then install them as one unit? or is it better to install the main pulley first, then mount the oversize ring?

I have a B8.5 S4, but I also have the AMS cooling solution, which uses the hard pipe from B8. So I'm afraid I may have to put the car in service position like awwturbo said in post #100. Will find out soon.

I did fluidampr 179 on '13 Q5 first fluidampr, then supercharger pulley but if I had to do it again, I'd put in service position as I couldn't torque wrench the supercharger pulley. I'll be checking, in service position, one of these coming weekends.

[niner]

I did fluidampr 179 on '13 Q5 first fluidampr, then supercharger pulley but if I had to do it again, I'd put in service position as I couldn't torque wrench the supercharger pulley. I'll be checking, in service position, one of these coming weekends.

Thanks.

I ended up putting the car in service position, and did the install. For someone, like me, who installs the pulley the very first time, it is easier to do it in service position.

[rtl5009]

Just did this. Took about 2 hours.

[OnEaNgRyBuNnY]

I'm going to install Fluidampr pulley with 187mm ring. Is it easier to attach the outer ring on the main pulley together first, then install them as one unit? or is it better to install the main pulley first, then mount the oversize ring?

I have a B8.5 S4, but I also have the AMS cooling solution, which uses the hard pipe from B8. So I'm afraid I may have to put the car in service position like awwturbo said in post #100. Will find out soon.

I stated somewhere else the fluidampr could not be done on a b8.5 without the service position. On my b8.5 I am NOT able to swap the pulley without being in the service position. The outer ring is much thicker the other pulleys and there just isn't the room to slip it in without the service position. I'm working on it as we speak, I've tried it both with the ring on and off. Doesn't fit for me either way.

Sorry, can't help you with the lines situation as my b8.5 doesn't have them with the AWE kit.


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[whiped]

I did one last night into this morning on a B8.5 S5. I had a random assortment of issues and it ended up taking 5 hours 😐

My first pulley swap actually went faster...

Anyway, I'd recommend service position. It's just easier with the fluidampr pulleys

[Jroyalty7]

So what's the consensus on this on a b8.5 w/ a 183mm fluidampr pulley then? Cause I've seen people say that bigger than 183mm was the problem with being able to install through the bottom etc... I bought a slim ratchet and I'm waiting on the fluidampr but can't install for a couple weeks and just trying to plan my method of attack

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[rtl5009]

So I did mine in 2 hours taking my time because I just had major ear surgery. It's not that bad. I wouldn't go full service position. Work by touch.

Yea they cut my ear off. Call me Van Gogh

[rtl5009]

I did one last night into this morning on a B8.5 S5. I had a random assortment of issues and it ended up taking 5 hours 😐

My first pulley swap actually went faster...

Anyway, I'd recommend service position. It's just easier with the fluidampr pulleys

Lol what happened?!

[OnEaNgRyBuNnY]

So what's the consensus on this on a b8.5 w/ a 183mm fluidampr pulley then? Cause I've seen people say that bigger than 183mm was the problem with being able to install through the bottom etc... I bought a slim ratchet and I'm waiting on the fluidampr but can't install for a couple weeks and just trying to plan my method of attack

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In my experience switching back and forth a few times, the only issue with the fludampr is that, with an overdrive outer ring, its thicker than the others. Diameter wasn't an issue. I tried this with a 183mm as well and had the same outcome, service position is a must. Pulley diameter would be a factor mainly for having to file down the mounting boss. Maybe smaller diameters can be snaked in as the fan does angle toward the engine to accommodate the motor closer to the center, but even the 179mm jhm is tight and its skinnier.

fluidampr w/187mm on left, JHM 179mm on right:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170423/685ff7e8410ab6d7f32aacdacb6d0c34.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170423/ff45dfaa6c33adf915a2b38881b4016a.jpg

[Jroyalty7]

In my experience switching back and forth a few times, the only issue with the fludampr is that, with an overdrive outer ring, its thicker than the others. Diameter wasn't an issue. I tried this with a 183mm as well and had the same outcome, service position is a must. Pulley diameter would be a factor mainly for having to file down the mounting boss. Maybe smaller diameters can be snaked in as the fan does angle toward the engine to accommodate the motor closer to the center, but even the 179mm jhm is tight and its skinnier.

fluidampr w/187mm on left, JHM 179mm on right:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170423/685ff7e8410ab6d7f32aacdacb6d0c34.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170423/ff45dfaa6c33adf915a2b38881b4016a.jpg
Awesome thank you for this! I'll just go good ol' service position then to start! No use wasting time!!

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[OnEaNgRyBuNnY]

Awesome thank you for this! I'll just go good ol' service position then to start! No use wasting time!!

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Absolutely. If my experience helps someone out, that takes the sting out of the "wasted" time.


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[B8Addict]

Sorry to bring this thread up but I wanted to know what bolts are used when putting the vehicle in the service position? I believe replacement screws are provided in any supercharger pulley upgrades but nothing for the crank pulley.

[whiped]

M10/1.5 x 120mm

+1 on service position for the fluidampr pulleys. Even without the ring, they are thicker than my KA pulley and caused me some issues.

[scalbert]

I believe the Service Position bolts are M10/1.5 x 120mm

[OnEaNgRyBuNnY]

I believe the Service Position bolts are M10/1.5 x 120mm

M8x1.25x25 are the pulley to crank hub stock/FD bolt sizes. The service position bolts are at least m10. 120mm seems about right. Longer doesn't really do any good, there is only so much give in all the lines that can't be easily disconnected to allow the front clip to move any further away from the engine.


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[Andrew Lane]

I just installed my new crank pulley. Make sure that you slip the inner belt around the new pulley before you torque it down! I ended up having to loosen everything off after torquing it because you can't fit the belt between the idler pulley and the new larger crank pulley... You also can't remove the idler pulley because it hits the crank pulley now... Live and learn! I overlooked that step in the DIY!

[B8Addict]

Thanks guys for the response on service position bolt size. Gonna go with the m10's. I am assuming its okay for me to install the crank pulley and then drive over to the shop to get flashed Stage2+ Unitronic? I would think the ecu would bypass any extra boost pressure.

[rtl5009]

Thanks guys for the response on service position bolt size. Gonna go with the m10's. I am assuming its okay for me to install the crank pulley and then drive over to the shop to get flashed Stage2+ Unitronic? I would think the ecu would bypass any extra boost pressure.

Yup. You can also get flashed and then put on the pulley. Just don't go into boost. They car has enough power in vac to get around.

[Charles]

Thanks guys for the response on service position bolt size. Gonna go with the m10's. I am assuming its okay for me to install the crank pulley and then drive over to the shop to get flashed Stage2+ Unitronic? I would think the ecu would bypass any extra boost pressure.


Here ya go:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-hex-head-screws/=246x8gw2m3j0l5380y

Evidently they're pretty expensive from local hardware stores.

[B8Addict]

Yup. You can also get flashed and then put on the pulley. Just don't go into boost. They car has enough power in vac to get around.

Awesome, thanks for the confirmation. PG performance, the shop I go to is about 9km away from me, city.


Here ya go:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-hex-head-screws/=246x8gw2m3j0l5380y

Evidently they're pretty expensive from local hardware stores.

Jeez. That's expensive per screw... Thanks for the link.

[SR7D1]

M8x1.25x25 are the pulley to crank hub stock/FD bolt sizes. The service position bolts are at least m10. 120mm seems about right. Longer doesn't really do any good, there is only so much give in all the lines that can't be easily disconnected to allow the front clip to move any further away from the engine.


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Hmmm. Getting mixed messages here? Are the crankshaft bolts M10 or M8? Mike's first page lists them as M10? Am I missing something?

[whiped]

That was my fault, Greg.

I was mixing specs up, M10x1.5mm and 120mm long is correct.

[SR7D1]

That was my fault, Greg.

I was mixing specs up, M10x1.5mm and 120mm long is correct.

Not the long S/P bolts. The crank bolts that hold the pulley onto the crankshaft. (I was going to text you if I didn't get a response here)

[whiped]

The bit to remove the crank bolts is the M10 triple square. Not sure the actual bolt specs. (You just reuse them or use the new ones that come with the pulley)

[SR7D1]

The bit to remove the crank bolts is the M10 triple square. Not sure the actual bolt specs. (You just reuse them or use the new ones that come with the pulley)

OK, cool. I was confused with OnEaNgRyBuNnY's post above regarding M8's.

[Johnson]

Stripped the T27 for the hard coolant lines. Any ideas how to proceed?

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[bhvrdr]

Stripped the T27 for the hard coolant lines. Any ideas how to proceed?

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Dremel a straight slot in it and try with a large screwdriver? I'd try that before drilling it out completely. Soak that crap in some pb blaster for a bit too

Mike

[hckymstr19]

Stripped the T27 for the hard coolant lines. Any ideas how to proceed?

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If your referring to the bolt you remove so you can move the coolant lines and get at the second tensioner, for what it's worth on my 2014,i just did this last weekend without removing that at all, I was able to get a wrench in there, it was tight but I got it in.

[Johnson]

Thanks, I was able to fit a wrench there. Anyone know the torque spec for the ring onto the fluidampr crank pulley?

Edit: found it on their website 22Nm.

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[rtl5009]

Stripped the T27 for the hard coolant lines. Any ideas how to proceed?

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Vise grips. Then new bolt. Or ez outs.

[Evan2]

Installed today, even got a new serpentine belt. Idled/revs fine, drive a mile and boom shredded. I assume I didnt file the block down enough. Going to take it apart in the morning and file it down more. Anyone have more detailed pics of the after look?

[whiped]

http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa435/LaxerTech/Car/20170401_205834_zps1g4orgq4.jpg

Best I can do.

[Evan2]

So do we need to grind it down via the red line or just the corner like green? I did the green, maybe not enough but it was hard to tell. I guess I didnt pay attn once I put it on, my own dumb fault.

http://i.imgur.com/fBarZk9.jpg

[B8Addict]

Just installed today. Audi zine was not accessible for the entire day so no guide available. Took about 2 hours. While the bumper was off I used some hardware cloth to cover the radiator and condenser from being punctured. Off to the shop to get flashed tomorrow. Currently car is stock but is driving fine. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170515/202946d6e837fc60d75bce346d73effa.jpg

Edit: forgot to say that I put the car in service position. It is definitely a necessity for B8 version cars.

[bhvrdr]

So do we need to grind it down via the red line or just the corner like green? I did the green, maybe not enough but it was hard to tell. I guess I didnt pay attn once I put it on, my own dumb fault.



I would take 3mm or so off the entire top to be safe

[SR7D1]

I put the 183 FD on over the weekend. Thanks Mike for the DIY! I used service position and gave myself the morning to get it done. The 2 quotes from speed shops that I got put it at $200 and $300, so I figured I would give it a try myself. YMMV, but I found it to be a struggle, especially not being able to see the crankshaft bolts and worries about getting the offset correct. Plus, I guess I'm out of shape? [rolleyes] LOL. My hands were killing me from all the contortions.

The shop would have charged me more anyway, the PLM external reservoir bolts were seized after only one mild Ohio winter. So that added a bit of time there. Otherwise, everything went smooth. I had all the tools already in my collection, except I rented a serpentine belt tool from AutoZone. That was a must. And getting the accessory belt tensioner disengaged, actually required an extra set of hands. [wrench] So good thing my buddy stopped over for about 30 min or so! The bolts that hold the outer ring of the SC pulley to the damper, I torqued to 20ftlbs and used loctite.

I did not remove the wheels to get the front fascia off, just turn the wheels to the left and right to get the 8 bolts/screws out, then drive it up on Rhino ramps.

As for the casting, I did not need to grind anything? I was surprised, but nothing comes close to rubbing. Maybe since I am only 183mm on the crank pulley? Not sure wht I would have used in that tight space anyway? I don't know if a grinder would fit in there? Sawzall?

I also drained the coolant overflow tank and put in a bottle of water wetter and topped with distilled water. GIAC mentioned better cooling results with les than 50/50 mix. (not that I goat much coolant out with that tank. maybe 3/4 gallon?) I get the new tune installed on Friday.

And luckily, AZ was down, so I could not see this thread until it was all over. [o_o]

[whiped]

I don't think every block requires grinding. Extratime and I did the FD pulley on his car without service position and it was a huge PIA.

You file down the green, it should be pretty obvious where it can rub.

http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa435/LaxerTech/Car/1487916529811_zpstgiopfpr.jpg

[administerturbo]

Grabbed these from Fastenal for Service Position. https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/39631

[Evan2]

I don't think every block requires grinding. Extratime and I did the FD pulley on his car without service position and it was a huge PIA.

You file down the green, it should be pretty obvious where it can rub.

http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa435/LaxerTech/Car/1487916529811_zpstgiopfpr.jpg

This helps so much, should have asked first to save me the trouble! Thanks sir!

[SR7D1]

Grabbed these from Fastenal for Service Position. https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/39631

Yep, those are the ones I used on Saturday!

[SR7D1]

I don't think every block requires grinding. Extratime and I did the FD pulley on his car without service position and it was a huge PIA.

You file down the green, it should be pretty obvious where it can rub.

http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa435/LaxerTech/Car/1487916529811_zpstgiopfpr.jpg

Yeah, I know where it is, (if you were talking to me) but it did not come close to rubbing? Maybe the 183 requires no grinding on that year?

[Dippy]

According to MRC who did the work, no grinding was needed when fitting my 189mm Vdamper kit. I wish I had asked a bit more because I am wondering why. I have the CREC engine which is p/n 06E 100 036 L and I found this photo of it. The sump looks different from that shown in whiped's photos. Does it look like the area in question has been designed out?

https://www.upmotors.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/06E100036L.jpg

[SchreibCity]

Anyone else find that they have a torx bolt on their accessories belt tensioner? Know the size? I really don't want to strip that bolt

Edit: i'm dumb. didn't realize i was supposed to hook onto the metal part

[SR7D1]

According to MRC who did the work, no grinding was needed when fitting my 189mm Vdamper kit. I wish I had asked a bit more because I am wondering why. I have the CREC engine which is p/n 06E 100 036 L and I found this photo of it. The sump looks different from that shown in whiped's photos. Does it look like the area in question has been designed out?

https://www.upmotors.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/06E100036L.jpg

I guess the blocks have changed over the years, as mentioned earlier? I installed the 183mm VDamper over the weekend and I did not have to grind anything? And, I don't know how anyone got a power tool in there to grind to begin with? Did you guys grind by hand with a hand file, as on page one of the "Life Beyond" thread?

[whiped]

I guess the blocks have changed over the years, as mentioned earlier? I installed the 183mm VDamper over the weekend and I did not have to grind anything? And, I don't know how anyone got a power tool in there to grind to begin with? Did you guys grind by hand with a hand file, as on page one of the "Life Beyond" thread?

I did it by hand. Could have easily used a rotary tool too if I had one handy at the time.

[SR7D1]

I did it by hand. Could have easily used a rotary tool too if I had one handy at the time.

Awesome, thanks Geoff.

[Jroyalty7]

Gonna tackle this install tonight or tomorrow but wanted to find out if the serpentine belt wrench is a definite needed tool or can I get by with standard tools? Also for those of you with fluidampr did you just reuse the crank bolts or get all new one's? Tia

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[scalbert]

Gonna tackle this install tonight or tomorrow but wanted to find out if the serpentine belt wrench is a definite needed tool or can I get by with standard tool?

16mm offset wrench works fine.

[Jroyalty7]

16mm offset wrench works fine.
Awesome, thank you!!

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[scalbert]

Awesome, thank you!

My pleasure. The triple squares are the only out-of-ordinary pieces needed. And if you have worked on cars, those are probably already part of ones tool set.

I installed the APR crank pulley a little over a month ago. Only to have my accessory belt tensioner start making cricket sounds a week later. Needless to say, I recently went back into service position to replace the tensioner. I half expected Alanis Morsette to play on the radio when starting to put the car in service position for the second time in just a few weeks.

[Jroyalty7]

My pleasure. The triple squares are the only out-of-ordinary pieces needed. And if you have worked on cars, those are probably already part of ones tool set.

I installed the APR crank pulley a little over a month ago. Only to have my accessory belt tensioner start making cricket sounds a week later. Needless to say, I recently went back into service position to replace the tensioner. I half expected Alanis Morsette to play on the radio when starting to put the car in service position for the second time in just a few weeks.
Hahaaa!!! That sucks but the Alanis Morisette comment made me lol!!! Hopefully no issues like that for me.

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[SR7D1]

16mm offset wrench works fine.

I disagree. I have used both methods. For the SC pulley belt I agree, you can get away with a 16mm wrench. For the crankshaft pulley belt, the length of the serpentine tool makes a huge difference in leverage. Not sure I could have done that one with just one wrench? It needs so much travel.

Rent one at AutoZone, it's free.

[Johnson]

I disagree. I have used both methods. For the SC pulley belt I agree, you can get away with a 16mm wrench. For the crankshaft pulley belt, the length of the serpentine tool makes a huge difference in leverage. Not sure I could have done that one with just one wrench? It needs so much travel.

Rent one at AutoZone, it's free.
I agree, try to get the serpentine tool. I was stuck using a 16mm wrench and fought for a long time to get the belt off and on.

Are you guys sure the hard coolant line is a T27 bit? I felt like there was some play when I tried to loosen it. I didn't have a T30 on hand to try.

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[SR7D1]

Are you guys sure the hard coolant line is a T27 bit? I felt like there was some play when I tried to loosen it. I didn't have a T30 on hand to try.

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I had a 27 on hand, but I think that I used the 27 to take it off, then forgot and put it back on with the 30 I had laying around for the other screws on top?

[whiped]

I feel like I checked this when I did mine but I am not sure.

It is the same size screw as the one that holds in the top of the coolant line. Should make it pretty easy to check.

[Nino79]

For those that have installed this on a B8. If you wanted to uninstall the overdrive ring later and leave the fluidampr crank pulley in place, would you have enough room to do this from above or below or would you have to put it back in service position to take the ring off?


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[Evan2]

I have a feeling my JHM went on without using the correct offset hole, I had to take it off several times due to a belt issue but I always marked it. I have a jumpy idle and seems the vibrations from the engine are not normal, I assume this caused other codes and worry about the damage I may have caused. What is the best way to ensure I get it on the right hole, it is hard to see the main seal without putting the car into service mode but I feel that might be my best option. I assume no one kept the pulley stationary while tightening the bolts, mine moved slightly has I applied TQ, is this ok?

[whiped]

You should be able to swap rings on a B8 without service position. It will be tight but certainly doable.

@Evan, your best bet is to take the pulley off. Use your phone or an angled mirror to figure out where the offset hole is on the crank.

Outside of the car mark the pulley with the offset hole in the correct orientation. Use this as a guide when installing it. (I mark the 6 o' clock position and make sure it is pointing directly down when installed)

Service position is an extra 30 minutes of work but worth it if you want to avoid a headache.

[Evan2]

I did that the last time I put it on unless I was wrong, Ill take a gander again this weekend. I get a squeal and based on the other issues with the DP Tune might have come from that. I do not see any vac leaks. I get a PCV Valve code sometimes from VCDS but then I check the valve and it clicks...

[daytonas4]

i wonder if i can install the apr pulley without removing the front end , if i remove the stock pulley and install the apr on onto it then sneak it back up there ? anyone tried this .

[whiped]

i wonder if i can install the apr pulley without removing the front end , if i remove the stock pulley and install the apr on onto it then sneak it back up there ? anyone tried this .

You should be able to do it. It will be tight though [:)]

Honestly probably easier to just throw it in service position.

It is very quick if you've done it before.

[scalbert]

i wonder if i can install the apr pulley without removing the front end , if i remove the stock pulley and install the apr on onto it then sneak it back up there ? anyone tried this .

Nope, won't fit. There is less than a 1/2 inch between the edge of the APR crank pulley and the fan shroud. The APR bolts are further out than that when beginning to thread them in. Not to mention the need to get the bolts in the holes.

[daytonas4]

Nope, won't fit. There is less than a 1/2 inch between the edge of the APR crank pulley and the fan shroud. The APR bolts are further out than that when beginning to thread them in. Not to mention the need to get the bolts in the holes.

yeah i get it .. thanks .

[maty360414]

is this the offset hole in my 179 JHM?
https://puu.sh/wQeCT/657b0bd2f9.PNG

[miztahsparklez]

is this the offset hole in my 179 JHM?
https://puu.sh/wQeCT/657b0bd2f9.PNG

Looks like it is spaced slightly farther than the rest.


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[Seattle996]

I just installed my new crank pulley. Make sure that you slip the inner belt around the new pulley before you torque it down! I ended up having to loosen everything off after torquing it because you can't fit the belt between the idler pulley and the new larger crank pulley... You also can't remove the idler pulley because it hits the crank pulley now... Live and learn! I overlooked that step in the DIY!

Amen to this tip! I tried putting the belt behind the pulley but that doesnt work with the Fluidampr. Had to remove it off the car again and reinstall. How u guys do this in 30 min is beyond me!!! lol

[minman26]

Going to jump on the EPL Stage 2 sale. How difficult is this DIY if you've never touch a serpentine belt (or any belt) before?

[whiped]

Going to jump on the EPL Stage 2 sale. How difficult is this DIY if you've never touch a serpentine belt (or any belt) before?

It is not bad but I would put the car in service position to save you a lot of frustration.

[minman26]

It is not bad but I would put the car in service position to save you a lot of frustration.

Thanks for the tip and quick reply.

[kelseysautobody]

Going to jump on the EPL Stage 2 sale. How difficult is this DIY if you've never touch a serpentine belt (or any belt) before?

Are you replacing the supercharger pulley or crank pulley? EPL usually sells their Stage 2 with the sc pulley. That's a whole different process than what's outlined in this thread.

[Acejam]

Thanks.

I ended up putting the car in service position, and did the install. For someone, like me, who installs the pulley the very first time, it is easier to do it in service position.

Did you end up putting the ring on first while the crank pulley was off the car?

[Sphoria]

Tons of good info in this thread, hoping to attempt this in a week or two. Couldn’t resist the black friday deals for a pulley and stage 2 tune. Maybe this is a dumb question (I haven’t even gotten under the car to look at the space I’ll be working in yet) but how do you get a torque wrench on the crank pulley bolts after install if you need a low profile wrench to get them out in the first place?

[B18b1ex]

Tons of good info in this thread, hoping to attempt this in a week or two. Couldn’t resist the black friday deals for a pulley and stage 2 tune. Maybe this is a dumb question (I haven’t even gotten under the car to look at the space I’ll be working in yet) but how do you get a torque wrench on the crank pulley bolts after install if you need a low profile wrench to get them out in the first place?

I used this with a socket to remove and install the stock bolts. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171124/f91f5bdfb34923aafebe5d4487e8d783.jpg

The aftermarket ones use a hex bolt which you can get a 3/8 socket for.


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[Sphoria]

So you were able to fit a regular 3/8 wrench and socket in there? In the write up it looks like you need a low profile wrench to fit in the space so I’m wondering how you get a torque wrench in there to properly torque them for reinstall.

[minman26]

Are you replacing the supercharger pulley or crank pulley? EPL usually sells their Stage 2 with the sc pulley. That's a whole different process than what's outlined in this thread.

Crank. 183 FD

[MSq5]

I went with JHM 179mm and EPL Stage 2. You can get that tune without having to buy their pulley package.

The one piece JHM crank pulley installed in my Q5 without having to put it in service position. Its tight, but works.

[minman26]

Hoping to tackle this once weather breaks. What's more challenging: getting car in service position or changing crank pulley?

[whiped]

Hoping to tackle this once weather breaks. What's more challenging: getting car in service position or changing crank pulley?

The crank pulley is harder only because it is a tighter space and more frustrating.

Last time I changed my pulley I did service mode and was glad I did.

[tmoe]

The crank pulley is harder only because it is a tighter space and more frustrating.

Last time I changed my pulley I did service mode and was glad I did.

Agreed, I did mine w/o service position and it was tight but possible, if change my pulley ratio, I'm putting in service position as that's just a bit of time and should make it easier.

Important- per original diy step 5 mark your old pulley and match mark to new pulley and you won't have any problems with getting the holes lined up otherwise pita.

[JD S4]

Hoping to tackle this once weather breaks. What's more challenging: getting car in service position or changing crank pulley?

I got mine into a ghetto version of service mode, got 7 of the 8 bolts out (with no visibility) and got scared I'd never find the offset bolt and put it all back together.. Now I'm going to pay a shop. But I'm a B8, not a 8.5 so it's tighter. I marked the pulley - but admittedly was at the end of a 12 hour day of wrestling with the car and got scared it would turn to 18 hours.. Pussy

I'm a vagina.

[miztahsparklez]

Service position is so easy.. once that happens, the crank pulley can come off/on in 30 minutes from the top.

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[minman26]

Are you guys sure the hard coolant line is a T27 bit? I felt like there was some play when I tried to loosen it. I didn't have a T30 on hand to try.


It's a T30. Just did mine.

[minman26]

Finally finished this. First off thanks to the OP for posting this. Extremely helpful and informative. Would not have tried it without this DIY. To anyone that can do this in 30 mins, or even under an hour, I applaud you. Like another post, I found this extremely difficult. Took me several hours. Working in that tight of a space, even using service position, is challenging. There is a chance I had another inch available in service position, but it seemed to not want to pull out any further. That inch would have been a big help!

A couple items from my experience that may help someone else trying this for the first time. I'm a complete beginner with something like this and I was able to do it... successfully I hope!

-I'd recommend taking the acc belt off the pulley to the far right (AC comp?) looking from the top. I tried to just "slip it off the back" for way too long to no avail. This freed up plenty of space and made like much easier, not creating any issues during reinstall.

-I definitely needed another person when reinstalling the pulley. Maybe had I tried the step above first I could have done it alone, but having another hand definitely helps, especially for trying to keep the pulley inline for the offset hole.

-I stripped 1, maybe 2, of the bolts that go on the outer ring of my Fluidampr while trying to torque to final measurement. Disappointed in myself, but also how soft those bolts are. I am hoping I got them to 27 nM with my 1/4" prior to using the torque wrench. I know they're close and I used loctite so hopefully that works. I should have tightened a little more with the 1/4". I think they are fine, but thinking worst case that bolt could back out which I would just need to replace, if I can even tell it backed out. I'll try and check after some miles.

-Put some 1/4 turn screws in where the 30mm bolts go underneath during re-assembly. Ha. That added a good 20 mins to figure out.

Otherwise, just very sore and scratches up and down my forearms. If you are a novice you can definitely do it, but I'd set aside a solid 4 hours and have a buddy on call.

[BOPOH]

Just did this on a6, big thanks to OP. Few notes from my experience:

1. Offset hole as stated before is like 1mm off so be careful when installing. I got all holes lined up on the first try, or so I thought. All bolts went in but when tightening them 2 were harder and stuck out further from pulley.

HOW TO FIND OFFSET HOLE:
-Lay old pulley with holes facing up
-lay new pulley on top of old with holes facing down
-insert ALL 8 bolts in holes
-if any bolts are higher, turn new pulley until all bolts go into holes at the same night. Be careful because some positions you will have two bolts higher (not lined up) and some postions only one sticking up.

Since I didn't mark my pulley in the begging I had to use this method on re-install, just turning pulley on the crank until all bolts went into holes evenly without any sticking out. It also helps to clean rust of crankshaft so you can set pulley all the way flush like it's tightened

2. Definitely keep serpentine belt around pulley during re-install as there is no option putting it on after pulley is tightened. I did this mistake but was able to correct by removing all bolts except very bottom one, just loosened it. Pulled pulley of the crank, slipped belt on and reinstalled other bolts.

3. While car on ramps, easiest position was to lay under car with legs towards the rear of car. I end up taking these bolts out several times and itbwas easiest and quickest way. No service position required for a6 c7

[bajan01]

I stripped 1, maybe 2, of the bolts that go on the outer ring of my Fluidampr while trying to torque to final measurement. Disappointed in myself, but also how soft those bolts are. I am hoping I got them to 27 nM with my 1/4" prior to using the torque wrench. I know they're close and I used loctite so hopefully that works. I should have tightened a little more with the 1/4". I think they are fine, but thinking worst case that bolt could back out which I would just need to replace, if I can even tell it backed out. I'll try and check after some miles.


The 8 inner 10mm triple square bolt torque specs are 27Nm, the 6 outer ring bolt specs are 22Nm with blue Loctite.

Having said that, I did a Fluidampr pulley and EPL Stage 2 flash last Saturday on my 2016 SQ5. I had the Stage 1 software running for about a week while waiting on the pulley to arrive. That was the first time I flashed any car myself and had zero issues.

For the pulley installation I took my time and spent probably longer than anyone one here. I won’t mention how long it took.[emoji15]

A few tips that I haven’t seen mentioned...

Service position definitely makes things easier and getting to that point is a bit different for the SQ5 than what I have seen in the S4 write ups and videos as I kept finding bolts that were preventing me getting into service position. Once I removed this mystery bolts I used some small lengths of 2x4s to keep the bottom part of the front end from pivoting inward. Thanks to BG SQ5 for hooking me up with a pair of bolts for a good price.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180206/5504cce076a1161781afc7f71853dd90.jpg

Unbolting the 8 10mm triple square bolts on the factory pulley was surprisingly easy...and yes I put marks on the pulley at the 6 o’clock position to match up to the new pulley later. I had the idea of simply sliding the new pulley (without the outer ring) over the inner belt and placing onto the crank flange with one hand while holding the 16mm wrench on the tensioner with the other hand and that actually worked...until I got underneath, lined up my marks and still couldn’t get the bolts back in. I tried a few times to fine tune the alignment but ultimately gave up on that technique. Looking down on the crank flange without the pulley attached and the inner belt now removed from the left most ribbed pulley, I could luckily see my offset hole (I have eagle eyes) at the 3 o’clock position. With the belt now completely loose I didn’t have to mess with the tensioner and had 2 hands to work on the pulley. I put one bolt in the offset hole of the pulley itself, held that in with 1 finger while guiding in into the offset hole on the crank flange and got the bolt started. I then could pivot the pulley upward and onto the flange and install the other bolts and torque to 27Nm. The inner belt was then reinstalled.

For the outer ring I used blue Loctite and torqued the bolts to 22Nm per Issam Abed...the instructions in the box had no mention of this.

Installing the new belt was tricky as I couldn’t get enough slack to get the belt on by loosening the tensioner alone. I realized that the ribbed pulleys have a lip on them and once I installed the belt over those first (including the sc pulley) I was able to easily slide the belt over the smooth (non ribbed) pulley.

I didn’t think about it initially but once I had everything apart I wish that I had a new inner belt to replace the factory belt...simply for preventative maintenance.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180206/ae41f5c4dadd443bd11ee5c4cb6a336f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180206/73ab93a0e19429523cf1b31f69b66a4c.jpg

The SQ is running well and I look forward to upgrading the heat exchanger and going with a bigger pulley ratio in the not to distant future. [emoji16]


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[Acejam]

The 8 inner 10mm triple square bolt torque specs are 27Nm, the 6 outer ring bolt specs are 22Nm with blue Loctite.

Having said that, I did a Fluidampr pulley and EPL Stage 2 flash last Saturday on my 2016 SQ5. I had the Stage 1 software running for about a week while waiting on the pulley to arrive. That was the first time I flashed any car myself and had zero issues.

...

The SQ is running well and I look forward to upgrading the heat exchanger and going with a bigger pulley ratio in the not to distant future. [emoji16]

Now that it's been a few days, would you be able to snap a couple pictures of how the belt sits on your Fluidampr crank pulley? I am curious to see if your belt "wanders" towards the rear of the pulley and ends up being closer to the engine.

[bajan01]

Now that it's been a few days, would you be able to snap a couple pictures of how the belt sits on your Fluidampr crank pulley? I am curious to see if your belt "wanders" towards the rear of the pulley and ends up being closer to the engine.

The belt shouldn’t wander as both the belt and pulley are ribbed. However, I have been keeping a close eye on the pulley but simply to make sure that the bolts haven’t backed out.[emoji15]

- Trust no one Dr. Jones.


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[Acejam]

The belt shouldn’t wander as both the belt and pulley are ribbed. However, I have been keeping a close eye on the pulley but simply to make sure that the bolts haven’t backed out.[emoji15]

- Trust no one Dr. Jones.


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One would hope that to be true. Unfortunately that hasn’t been my experience, hence me asking for a picture.

Once the belt is seated, this will happen upon startup. I’m in contact with about 6-7 Fluidampr kit owners who are seeing this. (Mostly recent orders)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/2e3d8fee40f50ac4f9562cec0c034982.jpg


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[bajan01]

One would hope that to be true. Unfortunately that hasn’t been my experience, hence me asking for a picture.

Once the belt is seated, this will happen upon startup. I’m in contact with about 6-7 Fluidampr kit owners who are seeing this. (Mostly recent orders)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/2e3d8fee40f50ac4f9562cec0c034982.jpg


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I’ll try and check today...


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[bajan01]

Mine looks okay.

Today...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/d6bb4bb54c8ca9ac50339fe7c923f4ad.jpg

Two weeks ago...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/b22a9d8a2eb18ab46ee4499d65dcbdb1.jpg

[Acejam]

Mine looks okay.

Today...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/d6bb4bb54c8ca9ac50339fe7c923f4ad.jpg

Two weeks ago...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/b22a9d8a2eb18ab46ee4499d65dcbdb1.jpg

If you look at the right side of your pulley in the today picture, the belt should be pretty much flush with the pulley, it shouldn’t be raised. Hard to tell from the lighting in that picture, but it looks slightly raised to me.

In other words, it’s not fully seated.

Here’s a picture of mine. If you can see the belt raised above the lip of the pulley on the sides as you look straight down (where the pulley curves down) then it’s not fully seated.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/e2831cb98680573e95c9a99c1e542b11.jpg


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[bajan01]

Here’s a picture of mine. If you can see the belt raised above the lip of the pulley on the sides as you look straight down (where the pulley curves down) then it’s not fully seated.

I now see what you are saying, however mine is seated well. Here is a closeup of that side and the belt is flush with the lip of the pulley. I am running the 183mm pulley for reference.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/d07be90689234cddfa7dbe4af4cde0ef.jpg


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[Acejam]

I now see what you are saying, however mine is seated well. Here is a closeup of that side and the belt is flush with the lip of the pulley. I am running the 183mm pulley for reference.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/d07be90689234cddfa7dbe4af4cde0ef.jpg


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That does indeed look good. [emoji106]

Stock supercharger pulley?


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[bajan01]

Stock supercharger pulley?

Yes...for a short time longer. [emoji102]


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[Wizard-of-OD]

Hi Everyone,
I want to address some concerns in this thread.

I am happy most of you are enjoying your Fluidampr set up but I need to comment on the machining side of things.

The outer rings are CNC machined . The programming for those rings has not changed since inception.
The file is based off the Fluidampr and our machines boast a tolerance of 0.000X"

Like the old adage….garbage in garbage out.
This is the process – specifically to the 183mm since that is the most common size we machine.
- 8” x 2” bar stock is loaded into the soft jaws and the CNC is Zero’ed
- The back profile of the ring is chewed out – approx 27 minutes on the Mori . (This includes the inner pocket and the out diameter) . This is known as OP1 (Operation 1)
- The partially machined ring is then placed in a CNC lathe where the back hub is used as the reference face
- The 7 serpentine ribs are then machined – approx 4 minutes (yes it is that fast). This is known as OP2
- Operation 3 is simply machining the front face (what you see once it is installed) for the counter sunk flat socket cap screws. This is the only process done on a manual mill
- The ring is then moved to the deburing and QC room to remove any sharp edges .

Nothing about the machining process is done “manually” . We don’t turn rings on a manual lathe , that would be absurd.
On my instagram I posted a video of us turning them on both the CNC mill & lathe almost 2 years ago.

That being said , if there is an alignment issue , I highly doubt it is from the fluidampr or the adapter ring but like always I am here to help. If you feel your ring is off then send it back for me to inspect and if it is off , I will machine up another one in any size you wish no questions asked.

These are the enthusiasts that don’t have issues:
- Those who only change the crank pulley
- Those who can’t change the supercharger pulley (A7 etc)

To give a short example as to why I believe it isn’t the fluidampr , the one pulley that is being pressed on and off is the Supercharger pulley. Mistakes happen as we are all human.
A local shop here did a Giac Dual Pulley tune on a B8 S4 and similar symptoms that were displayed in this thread occurred. Turns out the supercharger pulley was installed but did not seat all the way causing the belt to ride to one side of the outer ring.
It only needs to be off by 1mm to see this.

Unfortunately I don’t get time to check forums as often as I use to so if you inbox me I probably won’t read it until I log in.
Email is always best so PLEASE if you have an issue send me an email and I will take care of it. That is what I am here for.

HTH
Issam

[Acejam]

I ended up swapping out my Fluidampr 187 to a JHM 187 due to fitment issues. Over the past few months I have swapped pulleys 4-5 times and have picked up a few tips along the way that I thought I would share.

Regardless of what pulley you're installing, one thing that really helped me was using an M8 x 1.25 stud in the offset hole. This allowed me to inspect the crank snub with a light and mirror and easily identify the offset hole. Once found, I would insert a stud into the hole which allowed me to easily slide the crank pulley on. On the pulley itself I would simply place my finger on the offset hole, and then slide the pulley on. If my finger didn't touch/get pushed out of the way by the stud, then I knew things weren't aligned properly. Of course, this makes visual verification very easy after installing as well. Once on, I would insert and hand tighten the remaining 7 bolts, remove stud, insert the 8th bolt, and then torque all bolts in a star pattern. I also decided to use a small bit of Blue loctite on the bolts.

Two notes specific to the JHM setup:

At checkout, I selected "APR or similar" drive pulley. They sent me a Bando 1320 belt. From what I have found, a 1320 belt for a 187/57 setup is much too long. I opted to use my Gates RPM 7PK1300 belt instead. It's tight, but once installed it fits perfectly. A 1310 should also work.
The new bolts supplied with the JHM crank pulley are hex cap bolt equivalents of the OEM bolts. The problem with this is that the "pad" of the JHM pulley is thicker than OEM. (the part that touches the motor) Therefore, you really need longer bolts to get the same amount of thread engagement as the OEM pulley. I was actually shocked JHM didn't include longer bolts. I ended up using M8-1.25 x 35 mm hex cap bolts, and I got them at Home Depot. They are sold in packs of two and are grade 12.9, plenty strong for a crank pulley. (Link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M8-1-25-x-35-mm-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Socket-Cap-Recessed-Hex-Screw-2-per-Pack-803428/204281935)


OEM length bolts supplied by JHM versus 35mm bolts: (the 35mm bolts have the same amount of thread exposed as OEM bolts on the OEM pulley)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K2404DD-3YRKcoyxFqz-KJNB49zFdBspc--WwDJyP8f9zaFYAVLMP9nbRXoMbK7wm_xqEfAMQYxCYJqmQtOFi-YAn34TcwuYPspZ9_4YQuBoPr7fk2DGDorb8kdo9NA00aEeNLqp zuWrhoDN-p3QiOiN2yVtL2Jr7Xzk1LxrtucsyXpBLrQihZLelCzO5d6HE0K LnR1WYnXvL-_zASRyt2eMGRwaNCnvZ0TM8EgFRarK5ijuUXi-C1-0rLCsA93xZMB4BiN-V1ZTSaYOeOqkpHP26qKxQw5heKQLwae4-OAkKr2XKKcV7x-tZ_dYcjOyt7ezkVyUg6wNMRAa1Lyb1bwJotEQF9L0fD0s2RyQC zht92IqV8_fwPBk4AIwqE3z91Fyxamj1heL_NjTc9uUeD_qL-Yxs7Gzv1-FNo6B5zPCBGIy-Y9Cj5zUVjDkKnICnC-zyWfdSPp2UwwuX00-1z6_4rfi5jQgcyQi4gBZKmF_XXDbNcE7XtmESN386wBa9rjuDp npmhk-gSfIerQCJOjljkJAk7VvjdA_FXTGylEYFZUfNHBZ1oF4e-jC5AMkcADBBxgJNbqAg2IZeVdNPOIq8S9DDwe5LjVfNYMdTkYc EOBFPeAuHRT3zYvoNWbnfrZglzRvNgKutGxkOtz1FDyK60itD4 umNQ=w2142-h1606-no

JHM 187
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Aa-1uzwqYECksAbTvadCrglnsY3_S7BFJNLt8gEecsJ80FqCkoRRf cq5Z7aCJZVo2zg3bAJEv-IhV2pj-vxc2eMBMAPg4yCo-LguQaJWuipfUW1fMC6lMlg2bjQX9eCfXUsT3Du3njdv5AzlKPs q3Rh0BANcwwgLLn6h8x5QefJ9Ivbpl6m1DaXI9OzQRbyALSF6j vMqv4S4PoazWjxVYYycOrR9sbIMC_iYP4D9vLP5zztOfHBmr8n 74W1ZHZCmuhj-gVwlA7dG877IEpowo_E1Qd6HkbTPbMKtUIDdiPVVV9qj-51-8qp_CM5sooBB2ivwlzTIPZhf_theioCUUQXMHRW3YTDUShSKAy 2VMoj5daNTa9koZt3oWNOn3arxgq8TR472AjgCXou1G-58DSD9tsuK8VADsZvHuYeZpgKbcnmy3m0KgjSm-ZuEXFqtsZ9AK8GRw69jJv3SWzhiH8I9xZCr7FaEaMH7npc3mk1 rC19LnM7Qnu3J0RwJstiu3jBL05MKjy61nHVcrvYKox8BX8AIS kl3oHqxfFp6NMxZ_E-krW8gWMQ0_JaEr7Uwjo6WGcX87FCXxUoHAa_RUFw5YKY8z4VSc fk5MEGs=w1784-h1606-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y89DnQq8oR4Dd8FNz24b79ERVb0F2sJgTN5MqM2YAbmlFC6qX4 bPn4FBixxDlPVQdAelMmYkSLbgMUqXupqHlVW8NmKAv1zHs2Gf TppW3bhtViCjphpVd5-zzOeUAKlY4Lmyok_xQF2gPYN2zINhLl88ODORB2U3qAY1NnlP9 EIZcEW73zbKFMBGJUF1tfoBrIyCUxYbD0ciZqdp1JYtZnkdsh5 QhnvlWv0-Djfx9C4ck3TzW0Ipk6NrOP-bh9AkStEVTgeA6bYqt_3L66Y4eGWorEhxRnEMeY8J0olSFa-rh-8AZ0aF8SwcaGb9BiPSbi79r5vSREXFo94dKUUAEj-qvfcrZ1pBH5S--qY-nc5tckHB65Kt1o35HWOc3MAOev8IoH79h5H9iL2K7ve3MDdfkL G1-3RN6hX0j0YBKeapthFNSId7DvuJo7MfdgxgCMq_2CYDngvEwpe l6HCpHLVb76Sc0NHe5TDSFS1W7f5rpBKMPjoUKpSX2jr38GXZd BJZUoTqAuwHxYjrUkKtuMWpGzg0K2jpU2suu1mPGVAkh-66WYKDT5fMDH9rYDQNzZ-lcTNSba7xC8i0nRxITn4qMJmGvowJunHEwDd5pA6ngnBXjtfBl TnlnCVrAvmz158oJSRZxcQjUnXBDDOQqe8SinSqDmJUeQ=w214 2-h1606-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YxkZDc3I7pY07Hc8xmpR_Je7VVtBJQMZkhTi0HjhQpB1PmA--Mu2WBkgRb0xZhlS3CBiU8k4mUP5mTqaMgTmTDiPdaJjBknGQXB 4cwAVMrbKISlFZEbMXJVDV24IrwZSlWlSZms-ZMKwVYvHPSdMRfDGoZIhXJH9508bqezpLvW9rye7GlNiaTjhOi 17k_qpgc1KH54s8cJ43aaiG5OpGn479pkkCMBohOCR4G3PcRJE nxLQTI732TN3acDR_jvE7RmA5sBEbOmWjDMr7oo5IhFipguE_S ugywgK310NVWKh-p6XYENsvT6fW4qfrIIJeosJV1Ejlr6ZncMow3LN0L700Uwbyx_ 7xaJacCP6ADfiBmnvSm28-btQj2DsvRTRWC7vzN1iHVIVvU1w_L-qvHSTrkDANVrE_wQu25STH0V2Pt2Ly16lXVOs1bNvQ5LRR2QE2 I-rEaOJsfFHE2SfPpfacZu7PmYWVC9TSgrsacQXmFuae3iNro0Al sTYTaXJNWwh17AzYOWc8cfFjkcgnwRvf10rjTqsqxmfHB8pEb-sT7AArUtTP4IXjcnzzjl5U46jsrr776YcqV3PETulGkd_9wZRB SAXFbepyEpb46ZM2aQERIxyIXO3OXD5A27ApYOJqoW-6ANQ-V3mu_Ti--LGr8Qch4rghg=w2142-h1606-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zRfdC_obqL5xFlHMJZ6y5IKWgCu5Xuguz8vDsozk0DcZe_WUPp pvL1t__jk1RzfnPdLZZg6_zNSJGizDb50XC4dt4bH_oz8kI2_q 3adA38KZcOkOo40rgpM43TbmS9ILAIgM3KOMgqxJFqh0hTTLGt zhsfiXlJprIZgiS-1K4kGHuRbcy9Ik0ytoMSP3rAv_EMiz_dZLB_gida7UfYMku42Q xAnVGs17cuRHU_9eARILO3qw6rDTup8XuR9X0YF4hjvzLk9ftB gYlc0oSj3rsdF6sy6IcC-iQnttMnUoXMkg6ii7XDnyOkR9u4ZvIWOe-m1PHuMC4ddSrT48OShXaaieBDVT45tFH0Fs_mX_alJdNXoL3hF FBGMSWkk8MU--kAeitBu61pSTWM_xO88IJwsMWeqxOsyYFvt3w3L0YlZmPR2dw7 1RisUvCdFNo2qkbCADCufej2BAsVFT8fLTu4lMREkiQ77g6kkk WVA7Xr0nSpinezzNoUrBu-x8rJ-GJ3dk_zgtVWo5wE7CsG_u2tCL1JRhtNGEufULLlzUuA09R1u0x U3S6BLqIQTqvL6rJfjBrI2ltTsgRj3JyCq5_3Uh23keT2-huwDrgzQLD0fLkUq8MQNthbqVwsLzp42hGWOcYIcou3A8vfl44 oxXrO--i2aIRuoIqg=w2142-h1606-no

[ValidatedS4]

I ended up swapping out my Fluidampr 187 to a JHM 187 due to fitment issues. Over the past few months I have swapped pulleys 4-5 times and have picked up a few tips along the way that I thought I would share.

Regardless of what pulley you're installing, one thing that really helped me was using an M8 x 1.25 stud in the offset hole. This allowed me to inspect the crank snub with a light and mirror and easily identify the offset hole. Once found, I would insert a stud into the hole which allowed me to easily slide the crank pulley on. On the pulley itself I would simply place my finger on the offset hole, and then slide the pulley on. If my finger didn't touch/get pushed out of the way by the stud, then I knew things weren't aligned properly. Of course, this makes visual verification very easy after installing as well. Once on, I would insert and hand tighten the remaining 7 bolts, remove stud, insert the 8th bolt, and then torque all bolts in a star pattern. I also decided to use a small bit of Blue loctite on the bolts.

Two notes specific to the JHM setup:

At checkout, I selected "APR or similar" drive pulley. They sent me a Bando 1320 belt. From what I have found, a 1320 belt for a 187/57 setup is much too long. I opted to use my Gates RPM 7PK1300 belt instead. It's tight, but once installed it fits perfectly. A 1310 should also work.
The new bolts supplied with the JHM crank pulley are hex cap bolt equivalents of the OEM bolts. The problem with this is that the "pad" of the JHM pulley is thicker than OEM. (the part that touches the motor) Therefore, you really need longer bolts to get the same amount of thread engagement as the OEM pulley. I was actually shocked JHM didn't include longer bolts. I ended up using M8-1.25 x 35 mm hex cap bolts, and I got them at Home Depot. They are sold in packs of two and are grade 12.9, plenty strong for a crank pulley. (Link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M8-1-25-x-35-mm-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Socket-Cap-Recessed-Hex-Screw-2-per-Pack-803428/204281935)


OEM length bolts supplied by JHM versus 35mm bolts: (the 35mm bolts have the same amount of thread exposed as OEM bolts on the OEM pulley)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K2404DD-3YRKcoyxFqz-KJNB49zFdBspc--WwDJyP8f9zaFYAVLMP9nbRXoMbK7wm_xqEfAMQYxCYJqmQtOFi-YAn34TcwuYPspZ9_4YQuBoPr7fk2DGDorb8kdo9NA00aEeNLqp zuWrhoDN-p3QiOiN2yVtL2Jr7Xzk1LxrtucsyXpBLrQihZLelCzO5d6HE0K LnR1WYnXvL-_zASRyt2eMGRwaNCnvZ0TM8EgFRarK5ijuUXi-C1-0rLCsA93xZMB4BiN-V1ZTSaYOeOqkpHP26qKxQw5heKQLwae4-OAkKr2XKKcV7x-tZ_dYcjOyt7ezkVyUg6wNMRAa1Lyb1bwJotEQF9L0fD0s2RyQC zht92IqV8_fwPBk4AIwqE3z91Fyxamj1heL_NjTc9uUeD_qL-Yxs7Gzv1-FNo6B5zPCBGIy-Y9Cj5zUVjDkKnICnC-zyWfdSPp2UwwuX00-1z6_4rfi5jQgcyQi4gBZKmF_XXDbNcE7XtmESN386wBa9rjuDp npmhk-gSfIerQCJOjljkJAk7VvjdA_FXTGylEYFZUfNHBZ1oF4e-jC5AMkcADBBxgJNbqAg2IZeVdNPOIq8S9DDwe5LjVfNYMdTkYc EOBFPeAuHRT3zYvoNWbnfrZglzRvNgKutGxkOtz1FDyK60itD4 umNQ=w2142-h1606-no

JHM 187
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Aa-1uzwqYECksAbTvadCrglnsY3_S7BFJNLt8gEecsJ80FqCkoRRf cq5Z7aCJZVo2zg3bAJEv-IhV2pj-vxc2eMBMAPg4yCo-LguQaJWuipfUW1fMC6lMlg2bjQX9eCfXUsT3Du3njdv5AzlKPs q3Rh0BANcwwgLLn6h8x5QefJ9Ivbpl6m1DaXI9OzQRbyALSF6j vMqv4S4PoazWjxVYYycOrR9sbIMC_iYP4D9vLP5zztOfHBmr8n 74W1ZHZCmuhj-gVwlA7dG877IEpowo_E1Qd6HkbTPbMKtUIDdiPVVV9qj-51-8qp_CM5sooBB2ivwlzTIPZhf_theioCUUQXMHRW3YTDUShSKAy 2VMoj5daNTa9koZt3oWNOn3arxgq8TR472AjgCXou1G-58DSD9tsuK8VADsZvHuYeZpgKbcnmy3m0KgjSm-ZuEXFqtsZ9AK8GRw69jJv3SWzhiH8I9xZCr7FaEaMH7npc3mk1 rC19LnM7Qnu3J0RwJstiu3jBL05MKjy61nHVcrvYKox8BX8AIS kl3oHqxfFp6NMxZ_E-krW8gWMQ0_JaEr7Uwjo6WGcX87FCXxUoHAa_RUFw5YKY8z4VSc fk5MEGs=w1784-h1606-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y89DnQq8oR4Dd8FNz24b79ERVb0F2sJgTN5MqM2YAbmlFC6qX4 bPn4FBixxDlPVQdAelMmYkSLbgMUqXupqHlVW8NmKAv1zHs2Gf TppW3bhtViCjphpVd5-zzOeUAKlY4Lmyok_xQF2gPYN2zINhLl88ODORB2U3qAY1NnlP9 EIZcEW73zbKFMBGJUF1tfoBrIyCUxYbD0ciZqdp1JYtZnkdsh5 QhnvlWv0-Djfx9C4ck3TzW0Ipk6NrOP-bh9AkStEVTgeA6bYqt_3L66Y4eGWorEhxRnEMeY8J0olSFa-rh-8AZ0aF8SwcaGb9BiPSbi79r5vSREXFo94dKUUAEj-qvfcrZ1pBH5S--qY-nc5tckHB65Kt1o35HWOc3MAOev8IoH79h5H9iL2K7ve3MDdfkL G1-3RN6hX0j0YBKeapthFNSId7DvuJo7MfdgxgCMq_2CYDngvEwpe l6HCpHLVb76Sc0NHe5TDSFS1W7f5rpBKMPjoUKpSX2jr38GXZd BJZUoTqAuwHxYjrUkKtuMWpGzg0K2jpU2suu1mPGVAkh-66WYKDT5fMDH9rYDQNzZ-lcTNSba7xC8i0nRxITn4qMJmGvowJunHEwDd5pA6ngnBXjtfBl TnlnCVrAvmz158oJSRZxcQjUnXBDDOQqe8SinSqDmJUeQ=w214 2-h1606-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YxkZDc3I7pY07Hc8xmpR_Je7VVtBJQMZkhTi0HjhQpB1PmA--Mu2WBkgRb0xZhlS3CBiU8k4mUP5mTqaMgTmTDiPdaJjBknGQXB 4cwAVMrbKISlFZEbMXJVDV24IrwZSlWlSZms-ZMKwVYvHPSdMRfDGoZIhXJH9508bqezpLvW9rye7GlNiaTjhOi 17k_qpgc1KH54s8cJ43aaiG5OpGn479pkkCMBohOCR4G3PcRJE nxLQTI732TN3acDR_jvE7RmA5sBEbOmWjDMr7oo5IhFipguE_S ugywgK310NVWKh-p6XYENsvT6fW4qfrIIJeosJV1Ejlr6ZncMow3LN0L700Uwbyx_ 7xaJacCP6ADfiBmnvSm28-btQj2DsvRTRWC7vzN1iHVIVvU1w_L-qvHSTrkDANVrE_wQu25STH0V2Pt2Ly16lXVOs1bNvQ5LRR2QE2 I-rEaOJsfFHE2SfPpfacZu7PmYWVC9TSgrsacQXmFuae3iNro0Al sTYTaXJNWwh17AzYOWc8cfFjkcgnwRvf10rjTqsqxmfHB8pEb-sT7AArUtTP4IXjcnzzjl5U46jsrr776YcqV3PETulGkd_9wZRB SAXFbepyEpb46ZM2aQERIxyIXO3OXD5A27ApYOJqoW-6ANQ-V3mu_Ti--LGr8Qch4rghg=w2142-h1606-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zRfdC_obqL5xFlHMJZ6y5IKWgCu5Xuguz8vDsozk0DcZe_WUPp pvL1t__jk1RzfnPdLZZg6_zNSJGizDb50XC4dt4bH_oz8kI2_q 3adA38KZcOkOo40rgpM43TbmS9ILAIgM3KOMgqxJFqh0hTTLGt zhsfiXlJprIZgiS-1K4kGHuRbcy9Ik0ytoMSP3rAv_EMiz_dZLB_gida7UfYMku42Q xAnVGs17cuRHU_9eARILO3qw6rDTup8XuR9X0YF4hjvzLk9ftB gYlc0oSj3rsdF6sy6IcC-iQnttMnUoXMkg6ii7XDnyOkR9u4ZvIWOe-m1PHuMC4ddSrT48OShXaaieBDVT45tFH0Fs_mX_alJdNXoL3hF FBGMSWkk8MU--kAeitBu61pSTWM_xO88IJwsMWeqxOsyYFvt3w3L0YlZmPR2dw7 1RisUvCdFNo2qkbCADCufej2BAsVFT8fLTu4lMREkiQ77g6kkk WVA7Xr0nSpinezzNoUrBu-x8rJ-GJ3dk_zgtVWo5wE7CsG_u2tCL1JRhtNGEufULLlzUuA09R1u0x U3S6BLqIQTqvL6rJfjBrI2ltTsgRj3JyCq5_3Uh23keT2-huwDrgzQLD0fLkUq8MQNthbqVwsLzp42hGWOcYIcou3A8vfl44 oxXrO--i2aIRuoIqg=w2142-h1606-no

Holy shit. You think the shorter bolts from JHM will be an issue?

I just finished the install of my 179mm JHM pulley. I used lock tight on it. Now I’m worried about the length of the bolts supplied by JHM.


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[Acejam]

Holy shit. You think the shorter bolts from JHM will be an issue?

I just finished the install of my 179mm JHM pulley. I used lock tight on it. Now I’m worried about the length of the bolts supplied by JHM.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

That depends on your comfort level. The "longer" bolts that I used are equal to OEM in length in terms of thread engagement. The bolts supplied by JHM - assuming yours look short like the ones in my above picture - are less than half the thread engagement of OEM.

My general rule of thumb has always required a minimum of 4-5 full turns of engagement. I've raced on tracks with suspension components that have had slightly less without issue. However in this case, I wasn't in a rush and wanted to match OEM specs as closely as possible.

For your sake and others - I hope they have corrected this "issue".

Did the threads tighten up snug without issue? If so, I probably wouldn't worry about it for now, especially with loctite.

PS: Hello fellow Masshole.

[MSq5]

Nice idea about using a locator stud on the offset hole. I just made witness marks to match pulley location with a reference point on the engine. But, since the engine does not stop in the same location next time (like going back to stock for a dealer visit), the locator stud is an excellent idea. Thanks!

As to JHM bolt length, yes, mine were shorter than OEM. But, they seemed to have enough engagement, so I rolled with them. Torqued properly. I did put a drop of blue loctite on each. No issues.

Frankly, I think the OEM bolts are too long. Nothing wrong with that, but more threads does not mean better, as long as you have at least four complete rotations and they are the proper strength. I'm not hearing of any issues of bolt loosening on the JHM pulleys.

[spoolin80]

sorry editing, ordered my 179 a few weeks ago and the thread length seems proper?
https://i.imgur.com/pUm8NtY.jpg

[Acejam]

sorry editing, ordered my 179 a few weeks ago and the thread length seems proper?

That looks good to me. Looks like they have corrected the issue and started including newer bolts. For what it's worth, I ordered my pulley in early February 2018.

[ValidatedS4]

That looks good to me. Looks like they have corrected the issue and started including newer bolts. For what it's worth, I ordered my pulley in early February 2018.

I bought mine off of a forum member so I doubt it was corrected. Mine look similar to yours.

I remember getting a few turns out of them. I think it’s something good to know if someone has the old bolts. If I ever need to take off the pulley I’m going to replace it with longer ones.

PS. originally from NH, but now that I’ve lived here, I get why driving like a Mass Hole is essential to life here.


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[MSq5]

That looks good to me. Looks like they have corrected the issue and started including newer bolts. For what it's worth, I ordered my pulley in early February 2018.

I've been running the stage 2 EPL with JHM 179 since September last year. As stated, their bolts are shorter, but are holding just fine.

[sspikey]

Bump. Just getting this done. Is a serpentine belt really necessary? I would prefer not ordering/renting one when I tackle this in two weeks.

Just received my CTS 180MM pulley. Looks beautiful!

[street2gen]

Bump. Just getting this done. Is a serpentine belt really necessary? I would prefer not ordering/renting one when I tackle this in two weeks.

Just received my CTS 180MM pulley. Looks beautiful!

I mean yeah you need your serpentine belt to run the vehicle..... im not sure i understand what your asking, because you also cant rent one.????

[street2gen]

I mean yeah you need your serpentine belt to run the vehicle..... im not sure i understand what your asking, because you also cant rent one.????

OKk, serpentine belt wrench... had to read back through diy to see what you were asking.
We welded a socket to a piece of flat stock when we changed water pump and then i turned around and bought one at advanced auto later so i already had one when doing the crank, you can also get one on amazon for $20.
In service position i dont think it would be necessary, just usefully for other things.

[Acejam]

Bump. Just getting this done. Is a serpentine belt really necessary? I would prefer not ordering/renting one when I tackle this in two weeks.

Just received my CTS 180MM pulley. Looks beautiful!

A 16mm wrench or socket is technically all that is needed for the tensioner. However serpentine belt wrenches are typically on the longer side and that extra leverage can help a lot.


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[sspikey]

Mechanic just sent me this. Do I have all the tools I need to have him do it without removing the front bumper? b8.5 S5https://i.imgur.com/5sWbLfA.png

Doing this tomorrow night with his help followed by Epl Stage 2 + TCU tune and CTS intake. Can't wait!

[mintytoo]

Mechanic just sent me this. Do I have all the tools I need to have him do it without removing the front bumper? b8.5 S5https://i.imgur.com/5sWbLfA.png

Doing this tomorrow night with his help followed by Epl Stage 2 + TCU tune and CTS intake. Can't wait!It's all detailed in the first post, under TOOLS

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[sspikey]

It's all detailed in the first post, under TOOLS

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

i was curious if I was able to use the triple square sockets with an extension or would they hit the edge of the crank pulley.

[bhvrdr]

Those should work

[sspikey]

Alright got it done. Sadly, it was just too tight and weird for me to work on the car without service position so I did it. Was super easy afterwards.

Two small tips.

1 clean the surface of the dowel on the engine side with sand paper. Mine was very rusted after Montreal winters. I also applied grease which made it much easier to rotate and get in place.

2. Find the offset hole and make sure that one goes in first. If that one seats the rest will follow with ease.

[omegis83]

That feeling you get when the new crank pulley holes line up perfectly. Still need to install the Fluidampr 183 but my hands are glad the worst is over. Went with service position on my 2013 and took my time.

Update: and it’s done. Just cleaning up now. Install the new pulley was easier than uninstalling the old pulley. Used a little blue Loctite on the bolts then fired it up to make sure everything was running right. Glad I set aside two days to work on this.

100688

[JayTirbhaw]

Is it possible to get the crank on without locating the offset hole ? Or in other words, could you end up installing it without the crank lined up correctly ??

Mines went on pretty easy but I’m paranoid about it not lining up right.

[Phil.Lmbrt]

Is it possible to get the crank on without locating the offset hole ? Or in other words, could you end up installing it without the crank lined up correctly ??

Mines went on pretty easy but I’m paranoid about it not lining up right.You would have had a hard time screwing in 2 of the bolts if it was not lined correctly

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[JayTirbhaw]

They all screwed in tight. Thanks !

[jackhammer909]

just did this on a 15 SQ5.

took me about 2.5 hours instead of the 30 minutes, but got it done. ran into issues with trying to get to the serpentine belt tensioner with my belt wrench. only had a socket available, and not a crows foot. couldn't get it on past the coolant lines, even tough the bottom bolt was removed. had to loosen up the top bolt to get enough slack on it.

then, the triple square set I had was either too short or too long. the long one would hit the back of the cooling fans and wouldn't work. the short one was too short to clear the pulley. didnt' have the right length shorty 3/8'th extension that would work. ended up using a universal joint to get enough length to clear the pulley. Once I got the OEM pulley off, the new pulley went on pretty quick. allen socket was long enough to just clear the pulley and was able to torque up without issue.

[03redgti]

just did this on a 15 SQ5.

took me about 2.5 hours instead of the 30 minutes, but got it done. ran into issues with trying to get to the serpentine belt tensioner with my belt wrench. only had a socket available, and not a crows foot. couldn't get it on past the coolant lines, even tough the bottom bolt was removed. had to loosen up the top bolt to get enough slack on it.

then, the triple square set I had was either too short or too long. the long one would hit the back of the cooling fans and wouldn't work. the short one was too short to clear the pulley. didnt' have the right length shorty 3/8'th extension that would work. ended up using a universal joint to get enough length to clear the pulley. Once I got the OEM pulley off, the new pulley went on pretty quick. allen socket was long enough to just clear the pulley and was able to torque up without issue.

next time rent the serp belt tool from autozone lol

[jackhammer909]

lol. I bought a cheapy belt tool frrom Harbor Freight. it had a 16mm socket, but no 16mm crowfoot. WTF?? (I guess that is what I get from buying from HF)

oh well, just had to loosen up the top bolt and I had enough slack to get the socket onto the tensioner.

[Morritse]

I tried without taking the bumper off, but I just couldn't manage to get good access to the crank pulley bolts without driving myself crazy, as well as the bolt holding the coolant pipe in place being stripped.

Do yourself a favor, make sure you have all the tools to do the service position method, ended up just having to do that, and I wish I had just started out along that mindset instead of waiting a couple hours trying to do it this way.

[hd1]

https://imgur.com/gallery/0qiVUyn

https://focusedpt.imgur.com/all/

https://imgur.com/gallery/TGk4dJ6

Big shout out to bhvrdr for posting the DIY. Definitely felt like I was trying to make my way to the bathroom in the dark doing this job. Its doable, but aint easy with it not being in the service position. You have to have all the right tools. I relied on a telescoping mirror to look inside the crank pulley to line things up. Definitely a must have. Also, it was a PIA getting the accessory belt back on with just two wrenches. Get the right tool as noted. If you dont have it you can get your other hand on the alternator pulley and crank the pulley a little more once it has tension/grip on it with the wrenches maxing out the tensioner pulley. I thought I lined up the crank pulley perfectly but 2 bolts were off, separated by 2 bolts. The mirror showed how those 2 threads were mismatched. I unscrewed the other 6, and rotated 3 holes. Lined up perfectly.

You can see in the pics I posted that the offset hole is designated by 2 dimples. If I had to do it over again Id try to twist the crank to where that hole is at 12 or 6 oclock, by checking with mirror. Or if you have a stud around that will screw right in, take out that screw first and screw in stud to line up easily (as noted by another member) Also, do yourself a favor and put some electrical tape over the sharp edges of the rad support, or youll be scraping the hell out of your forearms. I also cut the torx (crank screws) to the perfect length for socket so I maximized space. Its really tight. Used a dremel with cutoff wheel to trim the tab. That was the easiest part. Took me about 3 hours, but if I did it again itd be half that time. Hope this helps someone.

Looks like my water pump has a slow leak. Any thoughts on that?

[ABanT]

Just wondering if anyone knows if the supercharger idler pulley could be replaced using this same method?


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[bhvrdr]

Just wondering if anyone knows if the supercharger idler pulley could be replaced using this same method?


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I believe i went to the service position for that. Only takes another 15 min but its a long bolt that holds it in place so nice to have the extra room

[Acejam]

I believe i went to the service position for that. Only takes another 15 min but its a long bolt that holds it in place so nice to have the extra room

This +1. I had to go into service position when replacing this idler due to the length of the bolt.


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[ABanT]

Thanks guys. I successfully did the crank using this method but now having to go into service position anyways lol.


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[MSq5]

It was really not hard to do. But it is also easy to cut up your hand on the back side of the radiator and some sharp edged brackets. Wear thin gloves. It's tight but very straight forward if you follow the OP instructions.

[sivletho]

https://imgur.com/gallery/0qiVUyn

https://focusedpt.imgur.com/all/

https://imgur.com/gallery/TGk4dJ6

Big shout out to bhvrdr for posting the DIY. Definitely felt like I was trying to make my way to the bathroom in the dark doing this job. Its doable, but aint easy with it not being in the service position. You have to have all the right tools. I relied on a telescoping mirror to look inside the crank pulley to line things up. Definitely a must have. Also, it was a PIA getting the accessory belt back on with just two wrenches. Get the right tool as noted. If you dont have it you can get your other hand on the alternator pulley and crank the pulley a little more once it has tension/grip on it with the wrenches maxing out the tensioner pulley. I thought I lined up the crank pulley perfectly but 2 bolts were off, separated by 2 bolts. The mirror showed how those 2 threads were mismatched. I unscrewed the other 6, and rotated 3 holes. Lined up perfectly.

You can see in the pics I posted that the offset hole is designated by 2 dimples. If I had to do it over again Id try to twist the crank to where that hole is at 12 or 6 oclock, by checking with mirror. Or if you have a stud around that will screw right in, take out that screw first and screw in stud to line up easily (as noted by another member) Also, do yourself a favor and put some electrical tape over the sharp edges of the rad support, or youll be scraping the hell out of your forearms. I also cut the torx (crank screws) to the perfect length for socket so I maximized space. Its really tight. Used a dremel with cutoff wheel to trim the tab. That was the easiest part. Took me about 3 hours, but if I did it again itd be half that time. Hope this helps someone.

Looks like my water pump has a slow leak. Any thoughts on that?

When you initially installed the crank pulley incorrectly, did it allow you to screw in all bolts or were they hard to screw in? How did you know your crank pulley was misaligned?

I installed a replacement crank pulley brand was URO. not sure if the pulley is unbalanced/defective or I didn’t match the offset holes correctly but the bolts easily screwed in all the way I re-installed twice.
second time i took pictures of crank hub trying to spot out the offset hole, sanded the crank hub and cleaned to ensure proper seating I used 8 new bolts and torqued to 20ftlb.

I’m getting this vibration from 1400 - 1800 rpm weather I am in neutral, park or driving. Shakes harder when in N or P and if i rev over 1800 rpm and let off the gas it feels like the rpms drop down much slower during the 1800 - 1400 rpm range

I haven’t had this vibration even before the crank pulley split.

Its not a misfire issue since I’ve replaced spark plugs and coil pack 4K miles ago checked vcds live data no misfires detected.

I want to see if anyone has had this issue before or have tips on how to track down the issue


2011 Audi A6 c6.5 3.0t S Line package
Phantom black pearl effect

[midnitemass]

Anyone have a diagram handy for the accessory belt. didn't pay attention when I loosened and now I'm stumped...

[midnitemass]

Found this online but it doesn't match what I'm looking at

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/s7029.jpg

[bhvrdr]

...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191201/31e7066e8ba500127acb43b518479240.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191201/891c3293ebe36502e68f058f23983ec9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191201/ee2f43d550652f20b01d03b7c98fd5de.jpg

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[midnitemass]

These diagrams show two pulleys all the way to the right (driver's side), but I only see one....

[bhvrdr]

You can ignore the 2nd pulley on drivers side. Same routing
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191201/91a52fe0c6323fa0382d2d6993a4623b.jpg

[midnitemass]

that clears it up. i appreciate it!

[VroomTT]

First, huge thanks to OP and everyone contributing to this thread. I started this install today on my 2010 S4 dsg. Putting in a 180 CTS crank. Stock sc pulley and currently stg1 EPL.

Adding a couple notes and questions.

1) I'm not sure if this applies to all B8's (pre-facelift), but on my 2010 it's definitely not possible without going into service position. The hard coolant line routing prevents any chance of it getting out. That said, service position on the B8 is a breeze. Took all of 30 mins first time and me double checking everything. Even in service position it's very tight, so I wouldnt even want to try it otherwise.
2) I highly recommend picking up a couple M10 1.5 pitch bolts to use as supports for the front clip. Big piece of mind.
3) On my 2010 the tensioners are different sizes. SC is 16m the crank 17m.
4) There are 3 T27 torx holding the hard coolant lines. Undoing all 3 makes getting to the crank tensioner and slipping the belt over the roller much easier.

Crank and belt is on, but the SC belt just won't get on. I have a bando 1290 (which I thought was the right size needed) but it's not even close, way too tight. In fact, I noticed the oem pulley is actually larger than my new 1290!? I tried just re-using it but no dice there too.
- Does anyone know if the B8 or specifically 2010's require larger belts?
- Do Bando belts run shorter?

Everything else went smoothly, so now just need to figure this out and get it buttoned back up and flashed. [wrench]

Appreciate any info!! Thanks[hail][az]

[VroomTT]

Okay, update on my previous comment. 1290 is on! Had to slip it over the roller, but fack it's tight. Will put clip back on and test run it for a minute. Hoping too tight won't be an issue.[wrench]

[MSq5]

Okay, update on my previous comment. 1290 is on! Had to slip it over the roller, but fack it's tight. Will put clip back on and test run it for a minute. Hoping too tight won't be an issue.[wrench]

Glad you got it on. I’m surprised, though. I have a ‘17 Q5, but that should not matter as to belt size unless your tension and idlers are a different diameter than later models.

I am 187mm crank pulley and smaller than stock 57.6mm s/c pulley, double pulley.. Still, I had to run a 7pk1300 Bando and it is tight. When I ran a 179mm single pulley, it also used a 7pk1300.

Do you still have some spring movement in the tensioner? If you can compress it a little, I’d probably leave it alone. But, if it cannot compress, your belt life will likely be very short.

[VroomTT]

Glad you got it on. I’m surprised, though. I have a ‘17 Q5, but that should not matter as to belt size unless your tension and idlers are a different diameter than later models.

I am 187mm crank pulley and smaller than stock 57.6mm s/c pulley, double pulley.. Still, I had to run a 7pk1300 Bando and it is tight. When I ran a 179mm single pulley, it also used a 7pk1300.

Do you still have some spring movement in the tensioner? If you can compress it a little, I’d probably leave it alone. But, if it cannot compress, your belt life will likely be very short.

Thanks for your input. Belt is pretty tight, but once in plane the tensioner did give a little (like maybe 1-2mm). I was about to go pick up a gate 1300 (oriley auto around the corner had it in stock) and figured I would give it one last shot. I test ran it with the front clip in place and everything looks to be running smoothly best I can tell. I also gave the belt a quick squeeze after running and there does seem to be some flex. Maybe it will give a little with time?

I also have a small oil drip from the oil level reader which I've been battling with since owning the car. Planning to tackle it again in a couple weeks, so that'll be a good opportunity to check on the belts. Any obvious stress signs to look out for when checking it?

Taking a quick lunch break and then will start to button everything back together. Can't wait to flash it and see how it feels!

[Allan691]

First, huge thanks to OP and everyone contributing to this thread. I started this install today on my 2010 S4 dsg. Putting in a 180 CTS crank. Stock sc pulley and currently stg1 EPL.

Adding a couple notes and questions.

1) I'm not sure if this applies to all B8's (pre-facelift), but on my 2010 it's definitely not possible without going into service position. The hard coolant line routing prevents any chance of it getting out. That said, service position on the B8 is a breeze. Took all of 30 mins first time and me double checking everything. Even in service position it's very tight, so I wouldnt even want to try it otherwise.
2) I highly recommend picking up a couple M10 1.5 pitch bolts to use as supports for the front clip. Big piece of mind.
3) On my 2010 the tensioners are different sizes. SC is 16m the crank 17m.
4) There are 3 T27 torx holding the hard coolant lines. Undoing all 3 makes getting to the crank tensioner and slipping the belt over the roller much easier.

Crank and belt is on, but the SC belt just won't get on. I have a bando 1290 (which I thought was the right size needed) but it's not even close, way too tight. In fact, I noticed the oem pulley is actually larger than my new 1290!? I tried just re-using it but no dice there too.

[hail][az]

Welcome.. I too have a 2010.. actually built in 2009.

Re: # 1, I agree Service Position is almost required, but don’t agree about the hard coolant lines. I undo only the top one...in order to pull the two coolant hoses off of the SC inlets. I installed a 187 just two days ago without removing the other two bolts. Note: Today I realized wine corks are perfect fits for those two hoses.. I wish I had thought of this months ago.. It would have saved me many clean-ups..

Re: # 2, do you mean bolts to support the bumper when you pull it out away from the radiator/engine..? If so, I thought these were absolutely necessary..?

Re: # 3 yea.

Re: # 4 I still don’t see how this is relevant.. But maybe..

As stated above, I just installed a JHM187 (with a 57.75 APR SC pulley) and used the supplied 1300. It was tight, but not extremely difficult. But 180/stock would be different.

Enjoy!

[VroomTT]

Welcome.. I too have a 2010.. actually built in 2009.

Re: # 1, I agree Service Position is almost required, but don’t agree about the hard coolant lines. I undo only the top one...in order to pull the two coolant hoses off of the SC inlets. I installed a 187 just two days ago without removing the other two bolts. Note: Today I realized wine corks are perfect fits for those two hoses.. I wish I had thought of this months ago.. It would have saved me many clean-ups..

Re: # 2, do you mean bolts to support the bumper when you pull it out away from the radiator/engine..? If so, I thought these were absolutely necessary..?

Re: # 3 yea.

Re: # 4 I still don’t see how this is relevant.. But maybe..

As stated above, I just installed a JHM187 (with a 57.75 APR SC pulley) and used the supplied 1300. It was tight, but not extremely difficult. But 180/stock would be different.

Enjoy!

Thanks. Yes, all good points. I found pulling all 3 bolts to be easier than messing with coolant, but see how that would work too. The support bolts really are 100% necessary. I was thinking along the lines of keeping a bolt partially threaded, but that's silly and I don't think anyone should be doing that. Excuse my hasty comment.

It's all buttoned back up now. The belt does have a bit of play which seems fine, but part of me just wants to swap in a 1300 for piece of mind. If so I'll try to swap without going back into service position, which seems doable on the B8 too, but not looking forward to it at the moment[facepalm]

Also, let me retract my comment on the 1290 belt being smaller than stock. That was an error on my part (again, trying to move quickly). The 1290 is longer, just a tad bit. Maybe a few mm.

[Allan691]

Thanks. Yes, all good points. I found pulling all 3 bolts to be easier than messing with coolant, but see how that would work too. The support bolts really are 100% necessary. I was thinking along the lines of keeping a bolt partially threaded, but that's silly and I don't think anyone should be doing that. Excuse my hasty comment.

Excused. [emoji1] And actually.. I may have mistakenly confused, or blended, one project with another.. [emoji1] I just got finished doing carbon cleaning a few days ago and the H2O pump/T-Stat/PCC earlier this year.. and so I considered removing the SC as part of the deal (from recent habit), when in fact, if you are just installing a crank, you really only need Service Postion. I don’t think I would need to remove anything coolant related.. [emoji848] Maybe unclip the small overflow hose at the top of the expansion tank for Service Position..? But even that is not really necessary since you pull out the passenger side more to access the crank..

Into Service Position
Belt off with 16mm
Crank off/on
Belt on..
Out of S.P.

Iirc

[VroomTT]

Quick update: Ordered a Bando 7pk1300 and will report back on fitment [wrench]

[Dippy]

I am a bit baffled when I read about the difficulties some people are having with belt sizes. I did not do my own stage 2 work but the belt size requirement seems "obvious" to me.

Stock crank pulley is 162mm diameter and stock s/c pulley is 63.25mm diameter. Stock belt is 06E903137AB which is a 1270.
In my case MRC fitted a 189mm crank pulley. That's a circumference increase of (189-162)xPI = 85mm. However looking at diagrams and photos of the pulleys, it seems that the belt only touches about 2/3 of the circumference, so the route only increases by 2/3 x 85 = 57mm. So I'd expect to need a 1270 + 57 = 1327 belt. MRC fitted a 7PK1325.

According to the same maths (sorry, math), @MSq5's 179mm crank only would have needed a 1305 belt, and then the 187mm crank with 57.6mm s/c would really have needed a 1310. This matches the report that a 7PK1300 Bando was tight. Again, @Allan691's combo needs a 1310 and the 1300 is reported as tight. With a 180mm crank and stock supercharger pulley I'd suggest that @VroomTT needs 1308, so a 7PK1310. The weakness in my calculations is exactly how much belt to pulley circumference contact there is (which might be different for the two pulleys), but 2/3 seems to work well enough.

Before anyone claims that 1325 is too long for my car, I should point out that I have the CREC engine with its clutched supercharger and the ECU reads a supercharger rev sensor. So if the belt was slipping the ECU would flag a DTC (which it does not).

[VroomTT]

I am a bit baffled when I read about the difficulties some people are having with belt sizes. I did not do my own stage 2 work but the belt size requirement seems "obvious" to me.

Stock crank pulley is 162mm diameter and stock s/c pulley is 63.25mm diameter. Stock belt is 06E903137AB which is a 1270.
In my case MRC fitted a 189mm crank pulley. That's a circumference increase of (189-162)xPI = 85mm. However looking at diagrams and photos of the pulleys, it seems that the belt only touches about 2/3 of the circumference, so the route only increases by 2/3 x 85 = 57mm. So I'd expect to need a 1270 + 57 = 1327 belt. MRC fitted a 7PK1325.

According to the same maths (sorry, math), @MSq5's 179mm crank only would have needed a 1305 belt, and then the 187mm crank with 57.6mm s/c would really have needed a 1310. This matches the report that a 7PK1300 Bando was tight. Again, @Allan691's combo needs a 1310 and the 1300 is reported as tight. With a 180mm crank and stock supercharger pulley I'd suggest that @VroomTT needs 1308, so a 7PK1310. The weakness in my calculations is exactly how much belt to pulley circumference contact there is (which might be different for the two pulleys), but 2/3 seems to work well enough.

Before anyone claims that 1325 is too long for my car, I should point out that I have the CREC engine with its clutched supercharger and the ECU reads a supercharger rev sensor. So if the belt was slipping the ECU would flag a DTC (which it does not).

I agree it should be obvious, but alas this is not the case. JHM confirmed with me yesterday they use a gates 7pk1290 belt for their 179mm crank and stock sc pulley. This is in contrast to your calculated '1305' for the 179. I also reached out to CTS for info on the belts provided with their 180mm kit.

I've been running a bando 7pk1290 on my 180mm crank/stock sc pulley with no issues so far(flashed it yesterday and had a lot of fun last night). It was indeed a tight fit, but now that it's on the tensioner does have some play to compress further. I have a gates 7pk1291 in hand and ordered a 7pk1300 for good measure. Once both are in hand, I'll test fit for best size and report back.

Appreciate your logic, but based on current information and observations I don't believe your formula is complete and/or accurate.