View Full Version : A quart of oil lost in 90 miles. Advise needed, FAST
So, recently I was having an oil consumption issue. About a quart every 600-800k.
Changed the PCV and breather hose to the the new style ones(one with the valve on the breather tube). The ones that is meant for 2007+ cars. Topped off the oil to full and drained oil from intercooler pipes. Yesterday
Today I drove 90 miles. While driving, when I stepped on gas to merge in to the freeway, I noticed dark smoke out of the exhaust. Then, I noticed dark smoke as I step on the gas at around 60mph, no smoke below 50 or above 70. The smoke appeared dark on my rear view mirror through my tinted rear windows, so I don’t know if it as blue or black.
As I am driving home, just around a mile from home, low oil light comes on. So, effectively I burnt 1 full quart in 90 miles. I topped it off to full yesterday.
This is immediately after installing the new PCV and breather tube. WTF.
No CEL, or anything that indicates there is an issue. Gas mileage is same, so I don’t think its the fuel being dumped.
What would be a possible cause? Of this sudden oil loss.
- valve cover? May be the new PCV just completely broke the valve cover that was in its last legs? Does it even make any sense?
- turbo?
I might give it a go with a new valve cover but at this point I am feeling like its not worth it.
I was thinking to keep the car for another year and sell it, but looks like I am going to trade it in this week.
Shall I just throw in towel and trade it in? I have been through this road before with my other car and it was a nightmare.
aluthman
06-19-2016, 07:36 PM
If it isn't leaking or pooling in the IC piping, you may have just broken a ring land.
If it isn't leaking or pooling in the IC piping, you may have just broken a ring land.
There is small leak behind the engine, but that was there before I did the PCV and breather tube. And no oil pools in the parking spot.
I haven't checked the intercooler pipes today, but I cleared up about half a quart yesterday from the intercooler tubes.
Wouldn't broken ring mean, rough idle or CEL. Man this has been a nightmare.
adam044
06-19-2016, 09:37 PM
Well buring a quart every 600-800k is actually amazing. I suggest changing your oil well before that but I guess whatever works.
In all seriousness, it sounds like there has to be a leak somewhere because that's just insane. That's basically undrivable burning that mush oil that fast.
OrangeA4
06-19-2016, 09:38 PM
what is your mileage?
have you done your timing belt?
have you had any misfires?
I was at about 90k and had the following:
Pooling oil nearly filling #4 cyl coil pack tube. (head gasket seal was bad)
leak at rear of engine at the coolant flange.
leak at oil cooler.
All these leaks were at different times. None of them were very bad, except for the head gasket.
But those are places to look if you have similar mileage to mine.
good luck
Well buring a quart every 600-800k is actually amazing. I suggest changing your oil well before that but I guess whatever works.
In all seriousness, it sounds like there has to be a leak somewhere because that's just insane. That's basically undrivable burning that mush oil that fast.
600-800k was a typo.
There is no sign of leakage except for the rear of the engine and its not bad enough to have 1 quart out in 90 miles. Not even a single drop on the parking spot.
what is your mileage?
have you done your timing belt?
have you had any misfires?
I was at about 90k and had the following:
Pooling oil nearly filling #4 cyl coil pack tube. (head gasket seal was bad)
leak at rear of engine at the coolant flange.
leak at oil cooler.
All these leaks were at different times. None of them were very bad, except for the head gasket.
But those are places to look if you have similar mileage to mine.
good luck
97k miles.
Timing belt done at 85k.
No misfires.
I am kind of OCD about maintenance, so I try to keep up on top of it.
This sudden development since I changed the PCV yesterday has me completely stumped. I might just put the old PCV and breather tube back if it means I can have my 600-800 miles add-a-quart. Drive it like that for a year and sell it.
Its the smoke coming out of exhaust around 60 mph that has me worried. No hesitation/misfire/fuel cut issues.
Does anyone here think it could be valve cover or something else? Because thats the extent I am prepared to work on this car. I can't do the turbo or piston rings. No garage and no time as well.
hemantpd1
06-19-2016, 11:47 PM
Valve cover or valve cover gasket are possible which can create some smoke when under pressure. I would suggest doing following:
1. Compression test. At least it will eliminate piston ring or valve seal problem.
2. Check spark plug well for oil. If oil is present then your valve cover gasket is leaking.
3. Check valve cover for any crack. which can dump oil into turbo when pressurized.
Go through this thread and you will find plenty of information on how to check for any problem with PCv or valve cover.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/558554-SHIRO-PCV-system-explained
LINDW4LL
06-20-2016, 12:15 AM
You sound certain that this started when you installed the new PCV valve. Not sure why that's the case unless the new one arrived defective, but I'd put the old back on.
Sanjman
06-20-2016, 06:52 AM
Did you replace the breather hose to the 07+ version with the PCV valve "upgrade"? There is a
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You sound certain that this started when you installed the new PCV valve. Not sure why that's the case unless the new one arrived defective, but I'd put the old back on.
The Rapid consumption with smoke from exhaust started after I replaced the PCV on Saturday. I was loosing almost a quart in 600-800 miles. This started about 4 months ago. Before that no consumption issues at all.
Did you replace the breather hose to the 07+ version with the PCV valve "upgrade"? There is a
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Yes, new style PCV and breather tube were installed. Honestly, I didnt see any issues with the old ones. I still have them so I might put them back on this weekend.
Valve cover or valve cover gasket are possible which can create some smoke when under pressure. I would suggest doing following:
1. Compression test. At least it will eliminate piston ring or valve seal problem.
2. Check spark plug well for oil. If oil is present then your valve cover gasket is leaking.
3. Check valve cover for any crack. which can dump oil into turbo when pressurized.
Go through this thread and you will find plenty of information on how to check for any problem with PCv or valve cover.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/558554-SHIRO-PCV-system-explained
Oh went through that thread many times.Lol.
Thats why I am suspecting Valve cover.
Wouldnt bad piston rings give a CEL/code? Is there a way to test it with Vag-com. I have been very busy with work lately and this being a daily driver, I really dont have time to invest more time in it on the weekdays. Hence, trying to avoid taking it to the mechanic over the weekend. I mean, I can replace the valve cover in 30 minutes may be. Haha. And even if mechanic determines its the rings, valves, I am not going to change/replace them. Just dont have time and place to pull eveything out.
I can definitely pull the spark plugs later in the evening and see if there is oil.
Now, the question is, is it safe to assume valve cover the most likely culprit, if there is oil in the spark plugs?
onedumslack
06-20-2016, 09:44 AM
I'm with LINDW4LL. If the pcv and breather are what's changed. Put the old back on and see.
aluthman
06-20-2016, 01:45 PM
Wouldnt bad piston rings give a CEL/code? Is there a way to test it with Vag-com.
Not necessarily and nope. Do a compression test and/or leakdown test.
hemantpd1
06-20-2016, 05:16 PM
Oh went through that thread many times.Lol.
Thats why I am suspecting Valve cover.
Wouldnt bad piston rings give a CEL/code? Is there a way to test it with Vag-com. I have been very busy with work lately and this being a daily driver, I really dont have time to invest more time in it on the weekdays. Hence, trying to avoid taking it to the mechanic over the weekend. I mean, I can replace the valve cover in 30 minutes may be. Haha. And even if mechanic determines its the rings, valves, I am not going to change/replace them. Just dont have time and place to pull eveything out.
I can definitely pull the spark plugs later in the evening and see if there is oil.
Now, the question is, is it safe to assume valve cover the most likely culprit, if there is oil in the spark plugs?
In my case I had smoke during hard accelaration. I found oil in spark plug well and a hairline fracture in the VC itself. I changed the gasket only and problem has been drastically reduced. It smokes sometimes but very less. Hopefully after chaning VC problem would be gone.
torrque
06-21-2016, 07:06 AM
Mine was also using a quart per 1000k , changed valve cover, no oil usage at all ! But do a compression test first, it could be bad rings/valves. I had 170 psi flast on all 4, as a reference.
Theiceman
06-21-2016, 08:20 AM
its just me but I would go back and put the old parts back in just to see what happens.
aluthman
06-21-2016, 08:32 AM
Mine was also using a quart per 1000k , changed valve cover, no oil usage at all ! But do a compression test first, it could be bad rings/valves. I had 120 psi flast on all 4, as a reference.
That's incredibly low for a stock engine. Was it at operating temp when you did the test?
torrque
06-21-2016, 08:55 AM
That's incredibly low for a stock engine. Was it at operating temp when you did the test?
Sorry about that, I checked my notes. It was 170, not 120... I got fixated on 120 as I had just over 120 on my M5.
aluthman
06-21-2016, 09:37 AM
That makes more sense[up]
Ok, update. But not a nice one.
Driving to work today, oil light on. So, I am burnt another quart in may be 40 miles. While I was driving to autozone to get a sparkplug socket(I misplaced mine). Big cloud of smoke, then steady smoke if I even press on gas a little bit. Everything is pointing towards the rings.
Its 100 degrees outside. So, my plan to remove the plugs and check the valve cover is going to be ruined.
At this point, should I throw the towel and trade it in or sell it with full disclosure? Does it even make sense to get compression test done at this point?
The thing is, I dont have time nor space to rebuild the engine. And its my daily driver. I am already searching for another car.
Will have to rent a car or take a cab to work till I get one. WTF.
aluthman
06-21-2016, 04:27 PM
Buy a $20 turbo rebuild kit and give it a hail mary attempt. It may end up just being the turbo. You will probably be able to tell by removing the cat and looking at the turbine wheel.
Brillo
06-22-2016, 12:27 PM
I don't see how it could be your rings at the rate your are burning oil. Even if the oil scraper ring is bad or broken on one cylinder the upper rings would scrape some of the oil on the cylinder wall, just not as effectively as the oil ring, even if the broken ring scored up the cylinder wall. Don't see how you could burn that much oil. Simple thing to check though. If you have a broken ring checking all four plugs would identify the cylinder because its plug would be noticeably different than the other three.
Somehow massive amounts of oil are probably entering your engine through the induction system. Probably a blown turbo as aluthman mentioned or your oil separators (2) and or PCV valve and check valve are not functioning properly, and/or the internal passages of your valve cover are F'd up.
I've often wondered in these situations if you open the turbo to air by purposely venting the turbo to air (by removing one of the pipes going into the IC for example) so that you would have absolutely no boost pressure, effectively turning the engine into a normally aspirated engine, whether it would stop burning oil. I admit that I don't know enough about this engine and its systems to know if it would even run under these circumstances. Obviously, it would have no performance to speak of but if it stopped smoking you would identify the turbo as the culprit. If it still smoked (burned oil) you would look elsewhere for the problem. Any others have any thoughts on this??
LINDW4LL
06-22-2016, 02:15 PM
Everything is pointing towards the rings.
I don't think the rings can be pointed at for the most recent spike in oil consumption. That's not something that suddenly happens one day.
Start by swapping the PCV back. It would be quite the coincidence if, for example, your turbo blew on the same day as your PCV swap. Possible though I suppose.
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Thanks for the vote of confidence guys.
I am going to put the old PCV back and check the spark plugs today. I am hoping its Valve cover though. Any chance I can know just by looking at the plugs?
If it is turbo, how bad is a DIY. Keeping in mind, I am going to be doing it in a parking lot of my apartment. I have changed a turbo on a friend's subaru. So, I know its labor intensive. I would like to get it done in a day.
Like I said, I am probably going to sell the car, but cant really sell it in this condition.
Low and Behold
06-22-2016, 04:52 PM
If you swap the turbo, heres a helpful link on how to remove it (install in reverse)
http://www.stasisengineering.com/sites/default/files/install_pdfs/STaSIS%20MTF%20turbo%20install%20longitudial.pdf
I used it to swap my turbo and it helped immensely. You can get it done in one day. Just make sure you have ALL the tools you need before you start.
ajdre
06-22-2016, 07:48 PM
Yes-its sucking oil into the pcv system and is probably dropping the oil into your intercoolers. Replace the cover (bernardiaudiparts.com ~$275 delivered including the gasket and new bolts) and you'll also need to drain and clean the oil out of the intercoolers. Happened to mine a month after I bought it. Freaked out and finally figured it out when I punched the gas and a cloud of white smoke came out of the exhaust. Thought I was screwed but was relieved that I now have no oil loss for over a year. Was drinking a quart for every 600 miles. Poor design on the system....not a fan of plastic engine parts that disintegrate over the years. Keep us posted on the outcome.
Theiceman
06-23-2016, 04:36 AM
dont forget to put the original breather tube back also as you want to eliminate as many variables as possible. get a drain pan under your intercooler pipes also when draining. im surprised you have not had hydraulic lock yet.
Update:
I put the old PCV and breather tube back. Still the same issue. Smoke smoke smoke.
Checked the plugs. One plug looks fouled with oil.
Tried to remove the valve cover to check for cracks, but the damn thing is stuck as if its welded to the block. How do even remove it? I am afraid I will break it if I try to pry it up with screw driver or pry bar.
Also I noticed oil when I removed a couple of bolts from the valve cover. Is it normal? I wasn't able to pull many of the valve cover bolts out even after I unscrewed them completely. Didnt want to force it with pliers.
Drove it around the block. Now, I feel its the tubro that went bad, because if I feather the gas, it will run nicely, but if I press the gas a little more and get into boost, a big cloud of smoke.
All this and no CEL, WTF.
Attaching the pictures of the plugs and oil in the valve cover bolts. These are towards the turbo side.
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b589/finetrj/Audi/DIY%20maintenance/IMG_5156_zps00ebgp2u.jpg
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b589/finetrj/Audi/DIY%20maintenance/IMG_5157_zpsbxijeacy.jpg
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b589/finetrj/Audi/DIY%20maintenance/IMG_5158_zps4ab1kvkm.jpg
RakkCity
06-23-2016, 10:50 AM
I've often wondered in these situations if you open the turbo to air by purposely venting the turbo to air (by removing one of the pipes going into the IC for example) so that you would have absolutely no boost pressure, effectively turning the engine into a normally aspirated engine, whether it would stop burning oil. I admit that I don't know enough about this engine and its systems to know if it would even run under these circumstances.
Having just installed a front mount intercooler and having one of the pipes pop off under boost, I can say with absolutely certainty the motor does not run under these conditions. It will idle if you're lucky, but as soon as any load is applied to the motor it turns into a 5hp Briggs and Stratton and struggles to even stay running. Had to rev the crap out of it and feather the clutch to get momentum and coast home, luckily I was only two blocks into my test drive.
Disconnecting a charge pipe will let unmetered air enter the motor, and flow past the MAF will stop, throwing the computer into wtf mode. Pulling the MAF connector might make it run, since it'll go off canned maps, but it won't be happy at all.
RakkCity
06-23-2016, 10:54 AM
Update:
I put the old PCV and breather tube back. Still the same issue. Smoke smoke smoke.
Checked the plugs. One plug looks fouled with oil.
Tried to remove the valve cover to check for cracks, but the damn thing is stuck as if its welded to the block. How do even remove it? I am afraid I will break it if I try to pry it up with screw driver or pry bar.
Also I noticed oil when I removed a couple of bolts from the valve cover. Is it normal? I wasn't able to pull many of the valve cover bolts out even after I unscrewed them completely. Didnt want to force it with pliers.
Drove it around the block. Now, I feel its the tubro that went bad, because if I feather the gas, it will run nicely, but if I press the gas a little more and get into boost, a big cloud of smoke.
All this and no CEL, WTF.
Attaching the pictures of the plugs and oil in the valve cover bolts. These are towards the turbo side.
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b589/finetrj/Audi/DIY%20maintenance/IMG_5156_zps00ebgp2u.jpg
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b589/finetrj/Audi/DIY%20maintenance/IMG_5157_zpsbxijeacy.jpg
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b589/finetrj/Audi/DIY%20maintenance/IMG_5158_zps4ab1kvkm.jpg
Bolts don't need to come out of the VC, just make sure they're all unthreaded and start prying gently at each corner with a screwdriver/prybar. The gasket sticks it to the head, so you need to break that seal without cracking the cover. Eventually it will pop loose a but and you can work it around the whole perimeter.
b7_Andy
06-23-2016, 11:02 AM
@trj We talked before and if I remember you live pretty close to me. You're welcome to pull the car into my garage one weekend and I can try to help you work on it. Or if you'd like I can come over and take a look at the car one day and see if we can diagnose the problem. Seems like it has to be valve cover, PCV, or turbo
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Charles.waite
06-23-2016, 11:04 AM
Bolts don't need to come out of the VC, just make sure they're all unthreaded and start prying gently at each corner with a screwdriver/prybar. The gasket sticks it to the head, so you need to break that seal without cracking the cover. Eventually it will pop loose a but and you can work it around the whole perimeter.
Don't use a prybar, just give it a few whacks with a deadblow hammer. Should knock it loose without worry about cracking or damaging the valve cover.
Bolts don't need to come out of the VC, just make sure they're all unthreaded and start prying gently at each corner with a screwdriver/prybar. The gasket sticks it to the head, so you need to break that seal without cracking the cover. Eventually it will pop loose a but and you can work it around the whole perimeter.
Will try again soon. I just put it back because I didnt want to loose any bolts.
And that little hose next to the breather tube, its on there. I mean may fused internally. haha
@trj We talked before and if I remember you live pretty close to me. You're welcome to pull the car into my garage one weekend and I can try to help you work on it. Or if you'd like I can come over and take a look at the car one day and see if we can diagnose the problem. Seems like it has to be valve cover, PCV, or turbo
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Andy, I might take you up on that. I can drive like a grandma without ever getting into the boost with my hazards on. Currently I am trying to get another car so I can slowly work on this car. At least I have ruled out PCV by installing the old one back.
Don't use a prybar, just give it a few whacks with a deadblow hammer. Should knock it loose without worry about cracking or damaging the valve cover.
Hammer? hmm, that would be interesting.
So, is it ok to think its not the rings and hope its a Valve cover or the turbo?
KingWulfgar
06-23-2016, 12:11 PM
Start with a new VC gasket. If yours is welded on that tight, your gasket is brittle and shot. Mine was like that after about 98k miles and it took me well over an hour to work it off (I was being cautious and trying to do it without damaging it or the head). I ended up starting in the front corner on the PCV side and just carefully twisting a flat-head screwdriver and a plastic trim tool all along that side until it finally broke free. Scared me a bit when it did, but I couldn't find any cracks. The brittle gasket is also what's holding the bolts in. They'll come out once you get it off. I would replace those too since they have rubber washers. You'll probably end up having to carefully scrape the rest of the gasket off the head and clean that well too.
I wouldn't go much further down the road of "what could possibly be wrong" until you clear up this easy one.
ETA: I couldn't get that small hose off either. I tried good hose picks and everything. Permanently affixed. I just left it and bent the VC backwards over it since it's flexible anyway.
Charles.waite
06-23-2016, 12:46 PM
Will try again soon. I just put it back because I didnt want to loose any bolts.
And that little hose next to the breather tube, its on there. I mean may fused internally. haha
Thanks Andy, I might take you up on that. I can drive like a grandma without ever getting into the boost with my hazards on. Currently I am trying to get another car so I can slowly work on this car. At least I have ruled out PCV by installing the old one back.
Hammer? hmm, that would be interesting.
So, is it ok to think its not the rings and hope its a Valve cover or the turbo?
A deadblow hammer. Not a metal carpenters hammer. There's a big difference.
My guess is due to the volume of smoke it's not rings. Have you done a compression test?
Theiceman
06-23-2016, 12:50 PM
all 4 rings sets of rings at the same time ? highly unlikely. you have oil coming into your intake..
Charles.waite
06-23-2016, 01:10 PM
all 4 rings sets of rings at the same time ? highly unlikely. you have oil coming into your intake..
That's what I'm leaning towards too. Given how nasty the plugs are and the really extreme consumption.
Fwiw I have piston ring issues and burn maybe 1qt in 1400 miles. And my spark plugs look perfectly fine, not all gunked up and wet like yours. My guess is pcv and/or valve cover given the oil leaking around the bolts.
Low and Behold
06-23-2016, 01:20 PM
That's what I'm leaning towards too. Given how nasty the plugs are and the really extreme consumption.
Fwiw I have piston ring issues and burn maybe 1qt in 1400 miles. And my spark plugs look perfectly fine, not all gunked up and wet like yours. My guess is pcv and/or valve cover given the oil leaking around the bolts.
Agreed.
OP - when you swap parts back and forth you may not see an IMMEDIATE difference. If tons of oil is ultimately being sucked through your intake, its going to take some time for it to clear out. Clean out your IC pipes and the one that goes to the intake manifold.
Your car is going to continue blowing smoke until you clear those out
RakkCity
06-23-2016, 01:30 PM
ETA: I couldn't get that small hose off either. I tried good hose picks and everything. Permanently affixed. I just left it and bent the VC backwards over it since it's flexible anyway.
Same problem with that little hose, I ended up using some channel locks to "scrunch up" the hose carefully off of a few spots, and eventually I could twist it to break free and pull it off. After I got the valve cover off and realized the whole f'in thing is plastic, I got down on my knees and thanked the lord I didn't crush that tube getting the hose off. $350 from Audi probably because I didn't have time to wait to ship a new one.
aluthman
06-23-2016, 04:48 PM
Rebuild the turbo. With the amount of oil you are burning it has to be getting shot right into the intake, exhaust, or both. The only way to get that much oil in there is the turbo oil feed shooting it right through a bad seal. I could see a bad VC causing you to lose a quart over 1000 miles, but not <90 miles.
Okedokey
06-23-2016, 04:54 PM
I would try the VC and gasket first. Cheap and could solve the problem.
aluthman
06-23-2016, 04:57 PM
It won't, but go ahead and do it if you want.
Okedokey
06-23-2016, 05:01 PM
It won't, but go ahead and do it if you want.
How can you possible know this?
vvenom800tt
06-23-2016, 05:05 PM
Because hes a fucking genius, if Adam said it, its true.
aluthman
06-23-2016, 05:08 PM
How can you possible know this?
There is no way that a leaky valve cover gasket will cause the loss of a quart in 40 miles. Just not possible. Based off what I read, I'd put money on the turbo. If the OP was closer, I would offer to rebuild it for him.
- - - Updated - - -
Because hes a fucking genius, if Adam said it, its true.
http://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net/xenoblade/images/9/92/He's_right_you_know.jpg/revision/latest/scale-to-width-down/640?cb=20150320192210
But seriously, if a new VC gasket fixes it, I'll paypal the OP the money he spent on it.
Charles.waite
06-23-2016, 05:15 PM
The VC gasket definitely isn't the culprit. It's a symptom not the disease.
adam044
06-23-2016, 05:28 PM
Because hes a fucking genius, if Adam said it, its true.
That's right bitches!
RakkCity
06-23-2016, 05:29 PM
[QUOTE=aluthman;11709468]There is no way that a leaky valve cover gasket will cause the loss of a quart in 40 miles. Just not possible. Based off what I read, I'd put money on the turbo. If the OP was closer, I would offer to rebuild it for him.
- - - Updated - - -
Any DIY's out there for rebuilding these turbos? Found a bunch for k03's but they were all for the 1.8T, which seems to be a different process for getting the housings apart.
Charles.waite
06-23-2016, 05:36 PM
Yea there's on on here done by FraggyA4. I followed it a while back rebuilding my turbo as did a friend. The pictures are broken, not sure if he's fixed that, but the DIY is very thorough. The rebuild process is generally similar to very other k03 but you have to get a 2.0t specific rebuild kit. Links in Fraggy's DIY thread.
Only major tool you're going to want is a good pair of high quality adjustable snap ring pliers. Otherwise it's just basic hand tools and cleanliness.
I actually needed up giving my rebuilt turbo to my friend since I wasn't able to install it and he had an emergency and needed one right away. So far he said it's been working out awesome and is boosting really well and not smoking so the kits are legit.
aluthman
06-23-2016, 05:51 PM
Yea there's on on here done by FraggyA4. I followed it a while back rebuilding my turbo as did a friend. The pictures are broken, not sure if he's fixed that, but the DIY is very thorough. The rebuild process is generally similar to very other k03 but you have to get a 2.0t specific rebuild kit. Links in Fraggy's DIY thread.
Only major tool you're going to want is a good pair of high quality adjustable snap ring pliers. Otherwise it's just basic hand tools and cleanliness.
I actually needed up giving my rebuilt turbo to my friend since I wasn't able to install it and he had an emergency and needed one right away. So far he said it's been working out awesome and is boosting really well and not smoking so the kits are legit.
I posted pictures in that thread when I rebuilt mine. Even if Fraggy's aren't there, mine should show the basics.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/628853-DIY-K03-Rebuild?highlight=diy+turbo
RakkCity
06-23-2016, 06:05 PM
Thanks to both of you!
RakkCity
06-23-2016, 06:06 PM
what kind of shop can balance the shaft?
aluthman
06-23-2016, 06:16 PM
what kind of shop can balance the shaft?
Mark the compressor nut before you remove it and just make sure it is back in the same orientation when you are done. That's all I did and my turbo is fine 1 year and 10k+ miles later.
rongeur
06-23-2016, 06:26 PM
Devil's advocate. If it was shooting oil out the turbo and into the intake track, wouldn't you have like all the missing oil in the turbo outlet hose and IC hoses? And if all that oil was making through the entire intake track, wouldn't it coat all the spark plugs through equal distribution through the manifold?, not just no.4.
I would do the compression test first as it doesn't commit you to uninstalling the turbo and tearing it apart or anything for that matter other than replacing the other spark plugs.
Work from easiest to hardest and rule out in between.
aluthman
06-23-2016, 06:30 PM
Who's to say it is all going into the intake tract? I'd venture to guess a good bit is going straight into the exhaust also. Also, while #4 is probably the worst, the other 3 are definitely not good.
Brillo
06-24-2016, 05:59 AM
^^Yes, the plugs are all pretty bad and point away from anything having to do with the rings or cylinders. You can spend a little time doing a compression check but I doubt it will reveal anything meaningful to the problem, just confirm that it's not the rings.
KingWulfgar
06-24-2016, 07:30 AM
The VC gasket definitely isn't the culprit. It's a symptom not the disease.
It may not be, but if it's so crusty it's fused the VC to the head, it definitely needs replaced anyway.
Theiceman
06-24-2016, 08:19 AM
one thing is for sure stop running the car immediately. sooner or later you will try and compress oil and then its all over.
Charles.waite
06-24-2016, 09:16 AM
It may not be, but if it's so crusty it's fused the VC to the head, it definitely needs replaced anyway.
Oh yea for sure. My point was that the replacing the vcg isn't going to solve anything, it's just addressing a symptom.
Charles.waite
06-24-2016, 09:18 AM
^^Yes, the plugs are all pretty bad and point away from anything having to do with the rings or cylinders. You can spend a little time doing a compression check but I doubt it will reveal anything meaningful to the problem, just confirm that it's not the rings.
Sadly, even a compression test doesn't really rule out ring issues. My compression is 180s across the board and it's still burning a decent amount of oil.
Having said that, if your rings were passing so much oil that you're burning 1qt every 90 miles then I feel like your engine would barely be running...
Just updating. It turned out to be turbo. Replaced the turbo and tested it for about hundred miles driving. No oil loss, no smoke from exhaust. Not a long term test but even with the old PCV and DV in no oil loss in the hundred miles I drove. After that sold the car.
Cobra351
12-20-2016, 01:04 PM
Just updating. It turned out to be turbo. Replaced the turbo and tested it for about hundred miles driving. No oil loss, no smoke from exhaust. Not a long term test but even with the old PCV and DV in no oil loss in the hundred miles I drove. After that sold the car.
Thanks for the update! Went through the thread anxiously.
Sanjman
12-20-2016, 01:45 PM
Wow thanks for the update.
We all should have thought about the turbo first.
aluthman
12-20-2016, 02:47 PM
Buy a $20 turbo rebuild kit and give it a hail mary attempt. It may end up just being the turbo. You will probably be able to tell by removing the cat and looking at the turbine wheel.
Rebuild the turbo. With the amount of oil you are burning it has to be getting shot right into the intake, exhaust, or both. The only way to get that much oil in there is the turbo oil feed shooting it right through a bad seal. I could see a bad VC causing you to lose a quart over 1000 miles, but not <90 miles.
There is no way that a leaky valve cover gasket will cause the loss of a quart in 40 miles. Just not possible. Based off what I read, I'd put money on the turbo. If the OP was closer, I would offer to rebuild it for him.
Just updating. It turned out to be turbo. Replaced the turbo and tested it for about hundred miles driving. No oil loss, no smoke from exhaust. Not a long term test but even with the old PCV and DV in no oil loss in the hundred miles I drove. After that sold the car.
Called it!
Brillo
12-20-2016, 03:05 PM
^^Wow Adam, you the 'man' or should I say the 'aluthman'
brandonpham
12-20-2016, 03:14 PM
Called it!
Well you said scored cylinder walls so let's hope you're wrong for me....
aluthman
12-20-2016, 03:18 PM
Well you said scored cylinder walls so let's hope you're wrong for me....
Lol, I hope I was wrong in your case.
Lol, I hope I was wrong in your case.
Haha, I hope thats not the case for @brandonpham
aluthman, did you get the DV? Its supposed to be delivered today.
Charles.waite
12-20-2016, 04:04 PM
Do you want a cookie, Adam?
This makes me think that I really should just get a spare turbo and rebuild it ans slap her in to the Lemicorn just to finally rule that out for my oil consumption. Kind of stupid not to considering a rebuild kit is $30 and a used turbo can be found for $200 or less...
Sanjman
12-20-2016, 04:09 PM
Do you want a cookie, Adam?
This makes me think that I really should just get a spare turbo and rebuild it ans slap her in to the Lemicorn just to finally rule that out for my oil consumption. Kind of stupid not to considering a rebuild kit is $30 and a used turbo can be found for $200 or less...
Might as well! People are giving away these k03s on this forum..... Cough cough OP
Charles.waite
12-20-2016, 04:36 PM
Might as well! People are giving away these k03s on this forum..... Cough cough OP
Yup. Amusingly I had one rebuilt and ready to install but ended up selling it to Solarsuplex when he was in a bind and I had no plans to install it any time soon.
aluthman
12-20-2016, 04:55 PM
Haha, I hope thats not the case for @brandonpham
aluthman, did you get the DV? Its supposed to be delivered today.
Yup, sure did thanks! Looks brand new.
- - - Updated - - -
Do you want a cookie, Adam?
This makes me think that I really should just get a spare turbo and rebuild it ans slap her in to the Lemicorn just to finally rule that out for my oil consumption. Kind of stupid not to considering a rebuild kit is $30 and a used turbo can be found for $200 or less...
Yes, snickerdoodle please.
pezgoon
12-20-2016, 06:32 PM
Just updating. It turned out to be turbo. Replaced the turbo and tested it for about hundred miles driving. No oil loss, no smoke from exhaust. Not a long term test but even with the old PCV and DV in no oil loss in the hundred miles I drove. After that sold the car.
Lol sold the car right after? Quitter.
[:p]
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Might as well! People are giving away these k03s on this forum..... Cough cough OP
Yup. Lol. I had in the classifieds for free(for some beer) till this weekend. Just couldn't keep it any longer in the trunk of my car.
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Yup, sure did thanks! Looks brand new.
Yah, I figured someone can use it. As I said it has 90 miles on it. Haha. Still have pcv and breather tube with 90 miles on it for sale if someone wants to save money. :)
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Lol sold the car right after? Quitter.
[:p]
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Yah. Had to quit. Not because I didn't like the car, but couldn't see it parked for more than four months. I Don't need two cars man and I like the new car better :)
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aluthman
12-20-2016, 08:22 PM
Yah, I figured someone can use it. As I said it has 90 miles on it. Haha. Still have pcv and breather tube with 90 miles on it for sale if someone wants to save money. :)
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I'll have to test the current parts on my project car. If they are bad, I might that that off you as well.
Sanjman
12-20-2016, 09:10 PM
Since we are here I need a new wastegate actuator for free anyone have those laying around?
brandonpham
12-21-2016, 08:00 AM
Yup. Lol. I had in the classifieds for free(for some beer) till this weekend. Just couldn't keep it any longer in the trunk of my car.
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Waiting on that VAGCOM CD if it exists also. [:D]
Denio24
12-21-2016, 01:10 PM
Those spark plugs don't look too bad, though they are a bit fouled, if something was seriously up with one of the pistons ring lands or rings, i'm sure that the tip of the spark plug would be noticeably black and wet. A quick test you can do is clean the spark plugs with a blowtorch, and then remove them to see if a particular cylinder is burning oil by comparing the other spark plugs. At this point a compression test is advised because it is cheap, Autozone rents out compression testers, and it will rule out any potential issues with the ability of your engine to make compression.
How does the car drive? Do you notice reduced power, any misfires?
Edit....scratch that it looks OP has solved the issue.