2003 Silver Metallic S6 Restoration Thread

[bpark1210]

I wanted to get a thread going tracking my progress at restoring or hopefully getting back to pristine condition on a light silver metallic 2003 Audi S6. Nothing crazy compared to some of the other builds on here (at least not yet). This thread will mainly focus on maintenance BS for the most part then possibly some other ideas I may pursue. I'm going to try and document all the struggles and success' more or less for my own records. So please follow and comment if you would like. This first post is epic long so I do apologize (and it really is my first post, new to AZ but have always visited to check out some build threads). I took a lot of pics just messing around and have compiled everything in the next few posts. This thread wasn't meant as a DIY walkthrough as there are many available resources here and online elsewhere, just a log to record everything to get to the goal of building the dream car.

I purchased an S6 in Oct of '15 w/ 153k on the clock. The previous owner kind of let the car go but he was the 3rd owner and couldn't keep up w/ maintenance and costs. So for me I picked her up for 5k! [drive][drive] What a steal. I've had VW's ever since I could drive and know my way around this chassis due to my '04 VW Passat 5sp wagon. The C5 and B5.5 have almost identical chassis components which makes working on it a breeze for me. The car itself runs great but is suffering from a little coolant loss. The PO thought it was the infamous oil cooler pipe but I tracked some leakage to bad seals on the long coolant pipe on the back of the engine. The suspension was clunking on full lock, the headliner was torn in 3 spots (due to the PO moving some shit and tearing it but it's really not that bad), little interior bits here and there were showing age, the OEM wheels were replaced w/ some cheapo knock off faux piece mesh wheels, but overall nothing major. Scanned w/ VagCom and everything was fine. Only DTC was for a faulty driver's and passenger door actuator, headlight level sensor, and some intermittent HVAC actuator. The tranny is strong and isn't showing any signs of sluggishness. So here she is a few days after I picked her up.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image8100.jpg

I drove her around for a few weeks then decided to tear into it. The PO had no record of the timing belt being replaced so I figured it was a time bomb waiting to happen. I've done the TB on my other cars and bought most of the tools needed. Opted for the ECS Ultimate Kit and attempted a TB job but the weather here got cold, freezing cold. Project went on hold.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image1310.jpg

She sat like this for over a month through Thanksgiving. Great for insurance! Got a refund back by putting her into comprehensive coverage only.

While waiting for the cold weather to warm up, I decided to work on other things. Replaced a lot of interior pieces. Passenger rear HVAC controls were kicked in by the PO's kids and was replaced. Put in OEM rubber weather mats. Fixed the cowling that was leaking through the pollen filter. Replaced pollen filter. Replaced center console arm rest cover. Bought a new key fob and drilled out the immobilizer chip to transfer to new key, switched in the key blade to new fob. Bought new HVAC control unit as the original buttons were worn down. Tore into the HVAC fan under the glove box due to squeeky fan. Cleaned the fan assembly and re-lubed, smooth as buttah. Replaced all interior and rear license plate bulbs w/ LEDS. Replaced the door actuator. This video came in real handy


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cid-HT3x1kQ&index=9&list=PLlX66rMDsxBc7n1NmLqpEjSEbx0arUwHb

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UttK0mXPSu4&index=10&list=PLlX66rMDsxBc7n1NmLqpEjSEbx0arUwHb

Then went a little parts crazy. Compiled a list of everything that needed replacing or fixing. During the TB job attempt noticed both, yes BOTH front inner CV joints destroyed, the outers were fine (that's a first [confused]). CV axles were not OEM so decided to go w/ Autozone remans but the local Autozone rep was a complete jackwad on the phone and sounded like he really hated his job. Well decided to never deal w/ them ever again. Plan B purchased some OP Parts remans. Then had to deal w/ an incompetant parts supplier that shipped 2 axles w/ different inner flange design.

The OEM CV's have a tri-pod inner joint w/ slits in the bolt pattern. I would assume Audi engineers chose this design for a reason. Maybe the slits offer a little bit of give and flex w/ the amount of torque produced by the BBD? Sent a few emails back and forth w/ the parts supplier and they claim the universal style CV joint is an "updated" design and it will be just fine. But then he tells me the passenger CV they sent is the incorrect one, they sent me an allroad axle not S6 [headbang]. They offering to replace it when I ship it back or to buy another and they'll send a free return label. I opted to just buy another and get the label. I get the replacement passenger CV and notice it has the correct tri-pod design inner shaft w/ the slits in the flange. WTF?
Nice packaging by the way on the replacment [facepalm].

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image2110.jpg
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image2210.jpg

I'm getting frustrated at this point, I have one universal type inner CV joint and now a tri-pod inner joint. Exchange a few emails and he assures me that either design will fit fine. I do a couple searches around and it seems as long it bolts up and has the correct length it really shouldn't be an issue. I really don't have anything else to tell the parts supplier at this point because it's 29* outside and I'm not going to try and attempt to even touch the car to see if these all fit properly.
Since it's so cold outside I focus on other things to do. Pull the headlights and do a full restoration w/ clear corner mod.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/Headlight-Resto-Process.jpg

Put in brand new butyl glue to button it up. Installed some new Osram Xenarc D2S bulbs along w/ chrome signals now that it was cleared out. Still needs another polish before I UV coat it w/ some spar urethane.

Before vs. After
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image5110.jpg


Decided I didn't like the tail lights w/ the amber. Got a little present from Deutschland.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/Tail-lights.jpg

OEM C5 4B facelift tails off of an RS6 Avant.

Much better! Those Germans sure do know how to pack a package. These things were wrapped w/ so much bubble wrap it could of survived a hurricane.

By now it was already December and almost Xmas. The weather was getting worse and I was getting bored and started to do more research, more holiday sales, more parts: picked up an ECS BBK w/ 6 pot brembos for a steal (still waiting, expected shipping mid Jan). Bought Apikol rear caliper brackets to run D3 A8 310x22mm rotors on stock pads/calipers. Should be able to get the bigger rotor but only utilize about 80% of the surface for braking. It will be an improvement in terms of heat disapation and cooling. Stock pads which will be upgraded to Hawk HPS along w/ the front BBK should help. I know a lot of guys have had trouble running the rear kits from 034 and JHM but it seems Apikol has developed a 4.2/S6 specific bracket that is plug and play. Time will tell once I install it. I know LazerfaceRictus has reached out to me on my IG to get feedback but I haven't got the chance to install them yet.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/Rear-Brakes.jpg

By the way D3 A8 310x22mm rear rotors = dirt cheap. Picked up these Brembos from AutohausAZ $120 w/ free shipping [:)]. These things are massive

Picked up a set of ST Coils on the cheapo as well for sub $700. I just couldn't let all these deals pass me by! I was really considering going air but because I need my trunk space (road trips, golfing w/ my buddies, HomeDepot runs etc) decided to stick w/ coils. I'm running Bilstein PSS9's on the Passat and love them but couldn't justify the price tag again for the S6.

If I'm going low then well sh*t might as well find new wheels. After a couple days looking at some rebuilt 3 piece wheels I came up on an offer too good to pass up on Miro's. A company in CA was having an Xmas sale buy 3 get the 4th free. I was eyeing the Miro 110's but unfortunately they don't offer them in 19" in a 5X112. I reached to out FM Wheels who do re-drilling and they offered to price match the competitor. Can't tell you how easy it was to work w/ Abe at FM Wheels. He got me hooked up on a re-drill and matched the price for me for sub $900. Decided on Miro 110's 19x8.5 and 19x10, offset's will be dialed in later. Abe posted a teaser on his IG feed of my wheels being completed:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image5510.jpg

Then they showed up after Xmas!

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image5610.jpg

Very clean work there.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image5710.jpg

Wiiiiide and concave

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image5810.jpg


While waiting for better weather, decided to fix an AC condenser sensor I broke during the TB job attempt. The clip no longer would stay on since the clip cracked off.

I found an OEM clip on Ebay and it came w/ everything you needed, including connectors, rubber weather gasket, and clip to hold all the wiring in.

Started off by clipping the wires then stripping them. Used the supplied connectors to pinch the wires in.

Then seated them into the switch, making note of where each color goes.

Make sure to clip the connectors in so that they will connect to the pins on the AC condesner side

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/AC-Condensor-Sensor-1.jpg

Snap retaining clip to hold the wiring in and all done.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/AC-Condensor-Sensor-2.jpg

[a4kamila6]

Im about to take out my headlights and take the lenses off also and I was thinking of painting those chrome inserts black.. you know the ones that come off with the lenses themselves.. and then you can separate the chrome from the lense. Well I guess my question is do you think it would look good? Was also thinking of doing clear corner mod, I mean, might as well.

And besides that, the s6 is a great car. Good motor. You can always find a 6 speed transmission and swap her in down the line if you get tired of the tiptronic.

[bpark1210]

The weather finally let up 2 weeks ago and I started to tackle the suspension while I put the TB job on hold.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image4410.jpg

Decided to get to the CV Axles fist. Then discovered this:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/Untitled-14.jpg

See the difference?

Don't mind the rust the car's been sitting close to 2 months out in the wet and cold.

WTF!? SAE bolt for the axle? Once I started to pull things off I noticed a couple little things here and there w/ non metric bolts/screws. Total hack mechanic job. I'm thinking oh crap what the hell did I get myself into. Had to run to Harbor Freight to find a friggin SAE socket big enough to get this BS off [:D].
Once I got the outer CV bolts loose I went to get the inner CV triple squares. Hit them w/ my impact gun an nothing . . . . . WTF? Couldn't break them loose. There was grease everywhere caked on from the torn boots. I know the car spent the first 10 or so years of its life in NY. I'm thinking salted roads and rusted bolts. Damn, never experienced anything like this in the PNW. With my Passat everything came loose like butter. Project on hold until a buddy could come help.
After New Year's I had some help and bought some 24" Craftsman extension sockets. This could be my new favorite tool hehe. Took two of us to break loose all the inner CV triple squares. I had to push in to prevent stripping the bolt while my buddy cracked them w/ a 24" breaker. What an ordeal. Stopped for the day. Treated my buddy to go watch the Hateful 8. End of that day.

Couldn't get back to the suspension until a few days ago. Got both my axles out then it was time to get my coils in. Focus: PINCH BOLT. I was lost for words. I know how you east coast guys feel about the pinch bolt now. These were seized beyond belief. Totally rusted or over torqued but just plain f'ing me over. Again never had issues like this w/ a NW car where we don't salt or roads.

Here was my technique to get the pinch bolt out. PB Blaster let it soak. Loosed the nut to sit flush w/ the bolt itself. I could turn the bolt from the head so I knew it was coming loose. Next few minutes focused on hammering the nut side w/ a hammer, soaking in PB Blaster, and slowing wrenching the bolt head loose. Soak in PB Blaster every time the bolt moves. I have air tools so an impact gun was crucial to getting the bolt moving outwards.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image6710.jpg

The tension on the bolt comes from the knuckle hanging it's weight on it so I put a spare small jack under the wheel bearing and jack'd it up to release a little bit of tension. Keep hammering and soaking w PB Blaster, then hit it w/ my gun back and forth to get the PB Blaster soaked in. Eventually the bolt started to slide but very slowly. Don't be afraid to hammer the crap out of it. Loosen the nut to regain leverage on hammering as the bolt slides towards the head side. Try not to spin the bolt for too long w/ an impact gun because the tension creates heat which can break the head off. Eventually the sucker came free. You can see how much PB Blaster is soaked onto it:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image6810.jpg

Also make note of how dirty my uprights are. They are black. You'll see in a moment how they should be shiny aluminum.
Pinch bolt out. Now what? Time to get the UCA's out of the knuckle. But wait a minute! I have a rusty east coast demon of a car. So in my attempt to hammer them from the bottom w/ a punch and hammer . . . . nothing. Plan B, head to Oreilly's rent a tie rod seperator and a universal ball joint tool. Hammered the picklefork in to initially free up the ball joint. Then used the universal tool to screw it out.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image7210.jpg

I had to use a small socket to fit into the upfright but it fit perfectly into the tool. The rear arm was causing some issues for the tool. The front came off in no time w/ this technique. Decided to just pull out my air hammer since the rears were taking too long.

"hammer time"
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image7310.jpg

Came out in 2 seconds. I wasn't planning on reusing the orig UCA's since I have some spare adjustable SPC UCA's from a previous setup on my Passat hence the torn boots on the orig CA's.

Everything out:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image7710.jpg

Notice the filth:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image7610.jpg

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image8110.jpg

Next couple of hours spent on cleaning.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image8010.jpg

This might also be my new favorite tool I picked up. A $10 pressurized spary bottle + Brakekleen = money!

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/PressurizedSprayBottle.jpg

Clean clean clean!

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image8210.jpg

Spray and wipe, went through almost a whole roll of paper towels. So much caked on grease.
Wire brushes and pipe cleaners for the upright CA holes and ABS sensor.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image9410.jpg

Before: Notice the color of the subframe
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image8910.jpg

After: shiny shiny aluminum
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image9010.jpg

Put new CV's in, regreased the ABS sensors, buttoned it all up and torque'd to spec.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image8410.jpg

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image9610.jpg

Also picked up a thread chaser set, another new favorite tool. I can clean all my thread holes and bolts. I bought all new nuts and washers for most of the hardware but decided to re-use whatever was not a torque to yield/stretch bolt this time. It does a great job at cleaning away rust and old lock-tite.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/Thread-Chaser-Tool.jpg

New setup for the Suspension.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image10110.jpg

I noticed during the install that my old SPC CA's had torn boots from rubbing together caused by being so damn low on my Passat. Holding off install until I figure out what to do w/ CA's. Thinking of replacing the SPA's w/ the same or considering some other options.


Started to notice a rough start when cranking and eventually this past weekend had no start conditions. Electronics seemed fine, assumed it was battery related since the car has been sitting for so long. Pull the battery out it's an 2006 so decided to pick up a new battery at Pep Boys. They had a 20% sale on batteries + $20 mail in rebate. Washed out the firewall area w/ a hose and got all the filth out while replacing the battery. And what the hell . . . the battery weights about a million pounds and is a PITA to move around the tight space.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/image8510.jpg

So that's where I'm at. Waiting on new Adj UCA's to finish the suspension, then onto wheel fitment, and then TB Job.[wrench] I'm shooting for deadline for Feb 13th, I have a road trip planned to go to Bandon Dunes, OR which is a 8 hr drive from Seattle. Hopefully this will wrap up in time. I'm limited to working on weekends and usually one day off during the week so have a solid 7 days to get it done. I'll try to update as much as possible but finishing the car has priorities.

[bpark1210]

Im about to take out my headlights and take the lenses off also and I was thinking of painting those chrome inserts black.. you know the ones that come off with the lenses themselves.. and then you can separate the chrome from the lense. Well I guess my question is do you think it would look good? Was also thinking of doing clear corner mod, I mean, might as well.

And besides that, the s6 is a great car. Good motor. You can always find a 6 speed transmission and swap her in down the line if you get tired of the tiptronic.

I've seen black out lights before. The only thing when going that route you need to find good paint that can resist the heat from bulbs and eventually cracking. The only downside of going black is once you paint the reflective surface you can never get it back. Getting the lenses off for the clear corner mod was surprisingly easy compared to my B5.5 Passat lights. Quick hit of heat gun and the buytl glue starts to give way.

[Hobartian]

Bpark, Your post makes very good reading and provides lot's of information. Great work!

[bpark1210]

Bpark, Your post makes very good reading and provides lot's of information. Great work!

Thanks! I've always enjoyed long build threads so hopefully I will have some nice progression here from a stock car to something unique and finished.

[OGBULLYLOCDAWG]

This actually inspires me to clean some up some suspension stuff lol.

Good call on the facelift eurospec tails, I was just planning on tinting out the amber at some point.. but that was years ago, so I think I'm sticking with the amber now..

Where did you source the pressurized spray bottle for $10?

[R490]

Sub'd!

Great thread, always like seeing these restoration threads.

[mr_dave]

Awesome work! Love to see these cars getting the attention they deserve.

[bpark1210]

This actually inspires me to clean some up some suspension stuff lol.

Good call on the facelift eurospec tails, I was just planning on tinting out the amber at some point.. but that was years ago, so I think I'm sticking with the amber now..

Where did you source the pressurized spray bottle for $10?


Ebay has plenty if you search for "pressurized spray bottle"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-800-ML-Chemical-Sprayer-Pressure-Garden-Spray-Bottle-Handheld-Sprayer-/281664160033?hash=item41947e0121:g:4pQAAOSwo0JWHKu u

[carmudgeon]

Great write up, do you mind posting the part # off the front struts while you have them out? Still on the fence about replacing mine with OEM or aftermarket.

[bpark1210]

Ordered 034 Adj UCA on Sunday night and got them tonight when I got home . . . . that was quick! Decided to get the 034 arms because I've gone through 2 sets of the SPC Adj arms and they get a little difficult to adjust once dirt and grime gets into the adjusting threads. The seller for me was the 034 arms would be rebuildable down the road if it ever needed. The quality of the arms are top notch and are going to be way easier to adjust than the dual threaded SPC/Stern style arms.

Pics:
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/034-Adj-UCA--1-.jpg

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/034-Adj-UCA---2.jpg


It's dark outside and also raining so decided to bring the project inside. I swear I'm collecting cardboard like I'm building a friggin hobo village, I'm a cardboard mechanic for life. Laid out all the pieces:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/034AdjUPCA8.jpg

Installed them in less than 5 minutes since I had my suspension apart from the other day. All done and the dog approves:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/034AdjUPCA10.jpg

Next up pull the driver's side out tomorrow and install the rest of the arms. If the rain holds off I'll be tackling the rear springs and be done w/ the suspension and hopefully onto the TB job over the weekend. I have a 4 day weekend but rain is in the forecast for the next week. I'll be busting out more cardboard to work on in the driveway haha. I may have to purchase a foldable tent to get the TB job done w/o getting water into the heads when I pull the VC's off.

[bpark1210]

Great write up, do you mind posting the part # off the front struts while you have them out? Still on the fence about replacing mine with OEM or aftermarket.


I don't have an ETKA file on the S6 but just pulling up on ECS Audi # 4B3413031M

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_S6-Quattro-4.2/Suspension/Shocks/ES371983/

[carmudgeon]

I think you're right, ETKA lists 4B3413031L as the red shock and 4B3413031M as green, although I'm pretty sure that's wrong.

[bpark1210]

I think you're right, ETKA lists 4B3413031L as the red shock and 4B3413031M as green, although I'm pretty sure that's wrong.

Ahhh I see why you need the clarification. Well I wiped down the strut and was surprised to see that it was still an OEM strut. It is in fact 4B3 413 031 M for the red strut. In all honesty I would opt for Bistein or Koni's over OEM shocks if were to spend the money on it.

[mr_dave]

Great write up, do you mind posting the part # off the front struts while you have them out? Still on the fence about replacing mine with OEM or aftermarket.

I just recently changed mine out for Koni FSDs. Here are the OEM SACHS red dampers from the S6:

Front - 4B3 413 031 M
http://imgur.com/BdNzTYQ.jpg

Rear - 4B3 513 031 J
http://imgur.com/UMbWRnK.jpg

[bpark1210]

I had the day off today so decided to finish up the front suspension. The 034 adj UCA were so easy to adjust and fit in having removable spherical joints.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/StrutUCAInstall.jpg

I did however run into a snag on the passenger side. I spent 15 min trying to force the front joint into the control arm spindle w/ no luck. I couldn't figure out what the hell was going on, it would slide in about half way in the spindle then stop. I didn't want to hammer them in because they're new and so nicely constructed so after I got to thinking I pulled the pinch pin out to look inside the spindle . . . . . . [headbang][headbang][headbang]

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/UCASpindlePinchBolt1.jpg

I must've dented up the aluminum upright during removal of the CA's w/ my air hammer [facepalm][facepalm][facepalm]

No worries I wasn't freaking out, if he aluminum was soft enough to get dented up I knew I could smooth it out. So grabbed a nail punch, one of those finishing punches you use on installing floor molding. Hammered it lightly and eventually it brought down the dent. Then grabbed a wire pipe cleaner and smoothed it out. Hit it w/ my air compressor to get all the debris out and wiped it clean.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/UCASpindlePinchBolt3.jpg

Test fit the pinch pins from from the UCA's and fit perfect!

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/UCASpindlePinchBolt4.jpg

Nice thing about the removable pinch pins are that it makes installing them a breeze. Instead of trying to fiddle w/ getting the entire UCA to press fit into the spindle I can just install the pinch pins first and slide the arms over them w/ ease. Love this design and I'm pretty sure my alignment guy will love it too.

Installed new hardware:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/UCASpindlePinchBolt5.jpg

and made sure to coat some lithium grease onto them to prevent the nightmare of rusting and ease of removal next time.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/PinchBolt.jpg

Torqued everything down to spec at curb weight position. I went the extra mile w/ the new adj CA's by torquing them to spec at the stock install angle when the entire setup was out of the car then loosening the bolt counting the number of rotations once in the car. I had the suspension at curb weight I re-tightened back the turns to get to torque spec (can't fit a torque wrench on the inner UCA bolts due to the spring and this is the only way to get it tight). This will give me piece of mind the inner bushing on the new UCA's are torque'd down at ride height preventing pre-mature bushing failure. Also torqued the M16 axle bolt, 133ft lbs then +180* once sitting on wheels.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/FrSuspensionInstalled2.jpg












Test fit time!

















http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/Miro110TestFit1.jpg

Miro 110's 19X8.5 et 35 w/ 10mm spacer. *Edit measured my spacer and they are 15mm Pics show final et at 20** They sure do look small in those wide arches. Might also be because there's no tire mounted.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/Miro110TestFit10mmSpacer2.jpg

Close up of the front view. The 10mm correction *15mm* spacer puts them just a hair outside of the wheel arch.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/Miro110TestFit10mmSpacer3.jpg

Thinking it may be too much and might bring it down to 7.5mm. I also fitted the wheels w/o a spacer and clearance will be tight on the inside. Might have rubbing issues on the spindle. All things for me to consider when I go w/ tire selection.

Dropped the baby down and was surprised to see the ride height almost perfect. Just had to adjust the passenger side up a 1/4". I'm going conservative for now because the plan is to go on a 8 hr road trip w/ 4 adults, 4 golf bags, and luggage in a couple weeks.

I always love the view of a slammed car w/ the front bumper off

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/S6LoweredFrView1.jpg

Went for a quick test drive [drive] and everything is perfect [:D]

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/S6LoweredFrView2.jpg


Drove the car back, reversed in and started to tackle the rears


I told her Shhhhhhh . . . . . . put your ass up and face down



http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/AssUpFaceDown.jpg

Things were rolling real quick on the rears. All the bolts and nuts came out real quick. I took out the 2 upper strut mounting plate bolts, lower strut bolt, the outer bolt on the stabilizer bar connected to the axle beam and loosened both lower inner control arm bolts. I was planning to then just drop down the suspension to wiggle out the strut.

I'm completely stuck, I'm [confused] lost at this point. I'm looking at my Bentley and that's pretty much all it outlines. I grabbed my spring compressors and spent the next hour trying to compress the spring by hand thinking it would help me get some clearance to pull the strut out. Put in a pry bar to help lower the suspension but there's not much give. It seems the upper spring mount has an extra 1.5" - 2" inches that needs to clear the mounting hole.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/RearSuspension1_1.jpg

I had to stop here due to darkness.

Anybody have any pointers on what to do?

[mr_dave]

Anybody have any pointers on what to do?

I loosened the two bottom inner control arm bolts and then removed the bottom outer control arm eccentric bolt that has the funky shaped washers, which allows the the control arm to swing down. I realize it messes up the alignment but it made it real easy to slide the whole strut assembly out and the first thing I did was get a full alignment anyway. No need for the spring compressors, but nice job getting them in there! [:D]

[bpark1210]

I was trying to avoid that bolt but might have to go that route. But your reply makes sense to just drop it, I plan on an alignment anyways. Is the eccentric bolt re-usable or a replace item? I didn't plan ahead to remove this one and would have to hit up the stealership if it needs to be re-used.

[mr_dave]

I reused it. I can't see why it would be need to be replaced since it's loosened, adjusted, and re-tightened for alignments.

[carmudgeon]

I just recently changed mine out for Koni FSDs. Here are the OEM SACHS red dampers from the S6:
Appreciate that. I am no longer on the fence, $288 per strut is nuts.

[bpark1210]

I reused it. I can't see why it would be need to be replaced since it's loosened, adjusted, and re-tightened for alignments.

Very good point. Appreciate the guidance, I'll hopefully have the suspension wrapped up by Sun and move on to the TB on Monday.



Appreciate that. I am no longer on the fence, $288 per strut is nuts.

ECS has Bilstein Sports on sale for dirt cheap, 41% off w/ free shipping. Can't go wrong w/ Bilstein's w/ their LIFETIME warranty, I love my PSS9's on the Passat.

[carmudgeon]

Yeah I'll probably end up with the Bilstein's, I can't justify coilovers . Did you have to use a special socket to get the strut nut off?

[rollerton]

I reused it. I can't see why it would be need to be replaced since it's loosened, adjusted, and re-tightened for alignments.

I did the same thing; if you clean and mark the eccentric positioning you can get it back to where it was before. I'd say on MOST of our cars if it's not exactly where it was before you're odds are that the alignment would be BETTER than before- due to suspension wearing and that junk.
When I did mine I didn't even need a spring compressor for the rear. By the time the nut is backed off almost to the end there's pretty much no tension on the spring.

[bpark1210]

Yeah I'll probably end up with the Bilstein's, I can't justify coilovers . Did you have to use a special socket to get the strut nut off?

I fortunately have air tools and just hit it w/ the impact gun to get it off.

You do however need it for the install. I made one a long time ago on a bench grinder by taking an extra long 19mm socket and grinding a window out of it and also bought one a couple years ago for $30 online. They are essentialy the same thing. I've seen people get the new nylock nut tight using vice grips holding the compression shaft but wouldn't recommend it. Get the tool, it's cheap enough now a days and would give you access to do your own suspension down the road.

[bpark1210]

I did the same thing; if you clean and mark the eccentric positioning you can get it back to where it was before. I'd say on MOST of our cars if it's not exactly where it was before you're odds are that the alignment would be BETTER than before- due to suspension wearing and that junk.
When I did mine I didn't even need a spring compressor for the rear. By the time the nut is backed off almost to the end there's pretty much no tension on the spring.

Good to know, thanks for the input. Sounds like I will be able to make quick work of the suspension this weekend.

[bpark1210]

Update: rear suspension done. 2 steps forward, 1 step back. I'll explain why at the end of this post. The rears were done on Monday thanks to some decent weather. I couldn't get to the TB as planned due to the rain today. I spent the better part of the last 2 days fine tuning the suspension and getting to some minor things to fix.

Started off by removing the eccentric bolt as mr_dave and rollerton stated. Marked the position for reference.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/RearSuspensionEccentricBolt.jpg

Removal was pretty straight forward since most of the work was done last time. Once the eccentric bolt was taken out, I removed the ABS sensor to the lower control arm. Swung down the LCA and the rear suspension drops out.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/RearSuspensionABS_SensorRemoval.jpg


Had to run to the store to get a extra long and skinny 17mm socket for the impact gun to get the strut nut off. Once it was off quick switch of bump stop and spring pad and we were done.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/RearSuspensionBreakdown.jpg

Since the rear strut nut is a 17mm I couldn't use the 19mm open window socket I had for the fronts so had to improvise:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/RearSuspensionCheaterTool.jpg

17mm socket + locking pliers = money

Cleaned all the hardware and installed new nuts to torque everything up. Only draw back was the ABS sensor screw was rusted beyond repair. I couldn't even get my thread chaser on this guy w/ the amount of rust accumulated.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/RearSuspensionABS_SensorBolt.jpg




Rear coilover install done

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/RearCoilsInstalled.jpg



I put the crappy faux piece wheels the PO had back on to get a sense of ride height. It's looking a little lower than I want for the time being but I'll fine tune it once I get my tire and wheel setup dialed in. Whoever installed these wheels are an idiot. They are double drilled and I'm pretty sure the shop who installed them are using the wrong pitch of threads on the wheel bolts. Every time I screw the bolts in or out they squeal like they are dying. I can not wait to get rid of these POS wheels.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/SupsensionFinshed.jpg



Spent the next few minutes dialing in the massive rear 19X10 Miro 110's. Stock et is 40. It fits but way too close to the suspension for my liking. Test fitted w/ the 15mm spacer to get a sense of where it needs to be:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/Miro110_19x10et30_4.jpg


Not bad
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/Miro110_19x10et30_1.jpg

w/ the 15mm spacer it puts me at a final et 25

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/Miro110_19x10et30_3.jpg

I'll probably end up getting a smaller spacer around 12mm to get it flush or maybe just stick w/ the 15mm's. Tire selection will determine ultimately.

After dropping her down I noticed the rear headlight level sensor was being flexed due to lack of extension. Raised her up and decided to remove it for the time being.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/RearHeadlightLevelSensor.jpg

Removed both just to be safe. I just replaced the front a couple weeks back and didn't want to risk it breaking for the second time.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/HeadlightLevelSensors.jpg

The plan is to somehow figure out how to shorten the sensor arms so they are still usable w/ lowered suspension. I got some math to calculate how much the car has dropped from stock height then get a percentage of how much I need to cut off the sensor arm. Hopefully my calculations will get me back to w/i spec so the beam is aimed at the correct level. Time will tell, another project for another day. I went to Home Depot to pick up some supplies and have an idea of how I'm going to rig this up.

While all the suspension was wrapped up decided to change out the rear trunk struts. This is where I take one step back. I'm an idiot for not looking up how to remove the struts. I thought I could just look at the new struts and figure it out. BIG MISTAKE. I had a sense that the ball joint inside the strut ends had to be removed so decided to unscrew the ball joint from the body of the car. Next thing I hear is a dropping noise [headbang][headbang][headbang] Apparently there is a speed nut inside the pillar that holds the ball joint screwed in. The nut dropped down the pillar to what I'm assuming is the tail light area [=(].

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/TrunkStrutF-ck_1.jpg
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/TrunkStrutF-ck_2.jpg

I manage to get the driver's side taken care of but soon realize the passenger side is f*cked . . . . . . .for now. I do a little research and find out that this is just a dumb design by Audi/VW. It seems the later model VAG cars now have the retaining nut welded onto the body. I end up doing some searches and it seems the best way to tackle it is to drop some wire line down the hole to the tail light area and string up into place while temporarily adding jb weld or epoxy to the nut. Then hope everything lines up after drying and tighten back up the ball joint. Time will tell, started to rain and I a was getting tired of holding up the trunk gate which ways about a thousand pounds.

Called it a day working outside in the rain and decided to head to the tire shop. Ordered my Michelin PSS's which were on back order so it will be a week or two before I can mount the Miro's up to the S6. I'll reveal the tire size once I get them mounted. Stayed tuned kids, haha.

Headed to Home Depot after the tire shop to get some supplies for the headlight sensors as previously stated but also grabbed some mineral spirits to finish up my headlight restoration. Stopped by the stealership to order some misc parts:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/StealershipParts.jpg

(When speaking w/ the parts guy he couldn't' find a replacement nut for the hatch strut. He too also said it was a ridiculous design by Audi. He mentioned that the license plate tubs had the same issues w/ a lot of models. They eventually came out w/ some sort of kit to rectify the license plate nuts but he said there is no fix for my trunk strut.)




I didn't like how the headlights turned out the first sanding so I opted to buy some courser sand paper and an actual sanding palm ball. Went from 400 dry to 600 wet to 1000 wet to 1500 wet. Repeated process twice. Rebuffed w/ headlight restore compound. Then finished them up w/ UV coating. Went w/ 50/50 spar urethane and mineral spirits.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/HeadlightRestoreSeal.jpg

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/HeadlightRestoreSeal_1.jpg


Before coating:
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/HeadlightRestoreSeal_3.jpg

After coating:
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/HeadlightRestoreSeal_2.jpg


Truly amazed out how the coating really takes away the hazing affect from sanding. Takes about 4hrs to dry then I'll add another coat or two.


Next up will be the TB job as soon as the weather cooperates. Then I'll have to figure out a fix for the hatch strut.

[rollerton]

Man ...that hatch strut thing sucks! I never tried to unscrew those pivots when replacing struts luckily. Personally..I'd probably just attempt to build up a little weld inside that hole and tap it m(8x1.5 I think it what it is?) so I could screw the pivot back on. Logistically I can see spending HOURS fiddling with keeping a nut that to screw the thing back on.
If the paint heats up a little silver cover up in the trunk lid jamb would probably never be noticed. Or there are a little little insert things meant for stuff like this, but you know how heavy that trunk lid is now.

As for the suspension / headlight sensors..well you can pull the fuse and pretty much never notice the auto level missing. Or some variety of this: VW carb linkage (http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-6-1-6-linkage-rods-Volvo-Mercedes-Benz-Weber-Carbs-/270914703663) could easily make it right. That's also what you want when your manifold actuators break. The ball-socket joints match the Audi ones- but the 4.2 manifold actuators are so short you have to weld two of the ball/socket ends directly to each other.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/hq0AAMXQlgtS-5gc/s-l500.jpg

Awesome job...love seeing that the S6 is starting to make a respectable come back. Probably has something to do with being a 300+HP wagon that is reliable as hell and cheaper than shit.

[mr_dave]

Doing all of that work outside in the rain is pretty hardcore. Makes me feel like a wuss with my heated garage. [:D]

[bpark1210]

Yeah I can see myself cussing up a storm trying to needle the nut back into place. I'll take a crack at it but may have to call a friend who knows how to weld. I like your ideas. As for the carb linkage rods, I saved them to my computer it's actually a great idea. I've seen the linkage arms by gruvenparts which now seems like a smart idea to use for the headlight leveling sensors. http://www.gruvenparts.com/audi-vw-4-2-v8-intake-manifold-linkage-arms/

[bpark1210]

Doing all of that work outside in the rain is pretty hardcore. Makes me feel like a wuss with my heated garage. [:D]

I have a garage but it's currently being used for a lot of storage due to a bath remodel that took place along w/ a new washer dryer. As soon as the weather warms up maybe I'll clean it out one of these days. But for now the cardboard mechanic thing out in the driveway works out haha

[bpark1210]

Just got word my BBK from ECS should ship out today. They said all their Porsche calipers are OEM red and have to be sent to a powder coater when any other color is ordered causing the month long dely for me. I chose to go black to keep it simple. Hopefully I'll have some time to install these with the million other things going on before my Feb 13th deadline. My rear pads and lines are also delayed in this order so I'll be able to upgrade the entire brake system w/ fresh fluid to boot!

[rollerton]

Let us know how the brake bleeding goes. Many people have problems getting decent pedal pressure back on the C5 after brake projects. Simple brake pad swap on mine left me with SOFT pedal 3 years ago, NO amount of bleeding has been able to make it right.

[a4kamila6]

Rollerton, could this issue be associated with the lucas type screw in calipers? I suspect that maybe it has something to do with the threads the piston rides in as we turn it in to get enough clearance to drop the caliper over the new pads. I mean.. What else could prevent your caliper from having a certain pressure? Leaky brake line? You would see that though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bpark1210]

Hmmmm, I've got a soft brake pedal right now. Figured it was due to the worn out brakes. I'll report back after the hardware upgrades and fresh fluid.

[rollerton]

Rollerton, could this issue be associated with the lucas type screw in calipers?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For me it was just front brake pads. Pedal sucked afterwards. I've bled it several times and can't explain it- no air ever comes out, and it's been almost 3 years. HP2 Front calipers..are screw type? I have braided stainless lines front/ rear also, they were there before and after.

[glennda5id]

For me it was just front brake pads. Pedal sucked afterwards. I've bled it several times and can't explain it- no air ever comes out, and it's been almost 3 years. HP2 Front calipers..are screw type? I have braided stainless lines front/ rear also, they were there before and after.

What type of pads did you use? What was on there before? How did you bleed?

[a4kamila6]

Hmm, yea I was talking about the rear calipers but since you say the front hp2's are causing the soft pedal, id take them apart and start from there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[carmudgeon]

I put Porsche 17z calipers on mine and the pedal feels about the same as it did before. Someone had a theory that pushing the pedal too far down while bleeding the brakes might damage the seals in the master cylinder.

Thanks again for posting pictures with all the details. Going to come in handy whenever I finally get around to doing mine.

[bpark1210]

My BBK shipped out today . . . . delayed by another day but on its way. Reading all the posts on soft brake pedals got me researching. I've come to the conclusion that bad seals on the master cylinder are prob the culprit. There doesn't seem to be much out in terms of buying a rebuild kit but I'm still searching. A rebuilt TRW master cylinder will run sub $110, cheap insurance in my opinion. Still researching a bit to find a rebuild kit but seems like a TRW master cylinder is worth paying for instead of rebuilding the unit.

for ref:

http://www.audiforum.ca/audi-s-rs-models-12/s4-brake-master-cylinder-removal-44042/

http://www.bufkinengineering.com/Brake%20Master%20Cylinders.htm

[bpark1210]

I started the TB job over the weekend. Didn't get quite as much done as I would've liked too, due to a lot of cleaning. There's a ton of oil buildup over the years which caused a lot of thick caked on oil and debris. Pics will explain themselves.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0257_zpszorpoo7j.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0257_zpszorpoo7j.jpg.html)

I am doing the usual of just documenting the progress instead of a DIY walkthrough. Documenting my progress and struggles so that others can make note if they choose to go down my path. But if you have questions please feel free to ask.

Started off by inspecting the valve cover gaskets to see if they needed replacing

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0260_zpscepy2pgp.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0260_zpscepy2pgp.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0261_zpssz51w2k1.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0261_zpssz51w2k1.jpg.html)


I didn't like what I saw. Obvious signs of VCG leaks and also a little bit of burnt oil residue. Decided to give some LiquiMoly Engine Flush a shot at cleaning the insides. Decided if the engine flush were to cause seal problems now would be the best time to do it since I will be tearing into the timing components to replace seals.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0259_zpsylyzibcf.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0259_zpsylyzibcf.jpg.html)

Do the usual drain coolant and oil. I ran into some issues draining the oil, kind of embarrassing but I will admit I had a huge oil spill. I have a 10 qt oil catch but I was not ready for the rush of oil that the S6 oil pan releases. It's literally like a waterfall. The oil came out so fast that the catch can couldn't keep up burping the oil down the fill hole. It's my mistake for not opening the other end to let air out but now I know. I found the best way to get the most clearance out of the lock carrier service position was to disconnect the upper radiator hose. I hate how the design of the AC wires do not let you fully take off the whole front end. Removing the upper radiator hose does give you plenty of room though.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0256_zpscapyq0hc.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0256_zpscapyq0hc.jpg.html)


All the tools you'll need laid out: cam lock bar, crank lock pin, cam chain tensioner tool, gear pullers, sand paper, and the trusty pressurized bottle w/ brakekleen

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0258_zpsb2dhdhnp.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0258_zpsb2dhdhnp.jpg.html)

Removed radiator fan w/ fan clutch tool

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0255_zpsxm2cjlso.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0255_zpsxm2cjlso.jpg.html)


Next up was to lock in the crank via the crank pin tool. In all my research this was prob the thing that threw me off the most. Most of the references I found relate to the 2.7t engine location and having a plastic cover over the hole. Not the case for us S6 guys. It's still located on the driver's side of the engine block right above the sway bar but it's just a drain plug very similar looking to the oil drain plug. The usual amount of swearing trying to get my hand and tools in the tight space but came out fairly easy. Hand threaded in the lock pin and went up front grabbed my 24mm 12point to rock the crank back and forth. Found a little play in the crank so went back under and found that the pin wasn't seated all the way. Mind you I also had my cam lock bar in place to ensure I was at TDC. Once the pin seated all the way the crank is locked tight.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0247_zpshd5qdy1x.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0247_zpshd5qdy1x.jpg.html)



I really dig the design of the BBD 4.2l engine. The ability to lock the timing in, makes it very easy to work on. I have no stress the timing will be off ever. Not the case w/ my 1.8t AWM motor, I had to mark the crank, cam gear, and belts to ensure I was always timed up right and felt any little movement would throw one or the other off.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0246_zps5v0gub3p.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0246_zps5v0gub3p.jpg.html)


After the timing was locked down I went ahead and released the drive belt tensioner, 19mm I believe.

Drive belt comes off

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0251_zpsxjpcj64c.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0251_zpsxjpcj64c.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0252_zpswbfmt9xq.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0252_zpswbfmt9xq.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0253_zps3lssahiy.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0253_zps3lssahiy.jpg.html)




















*side note, I'm looking for a better image hosting service. Anybody got any suggestions, I'm trying out Photobucket but it's more like Shitbucket . . . it takes forever to upload and I'm finding it is sometimes quadrupling up my images which makes for a messy album to scroll and find images. I just switched to the Google Nexus 5X phone and tried to link direct from my Google album but am having trouble having the link show the image vs. just the hyperlink. I have my permissions set to "public. Any smart tech guys out there?

[bpark1210]

Showing signs of cracking and definitely needed replacing.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0253_zps3lssahiy.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0253_zps3lssahiy.jpg.html)

Cam gear = lots of dirt and debris. At first I thought I was seeing metal shavings because it was shiny but it was mostly dirt or at least I thought at this point.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0269_zpsauh1abqu.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0269_zpsauh1abqu.jpg.html)

Once everything is locked down you loosen the cam sprocket bolts and remove the gears. I didn't take any pictures but it's self explanatory. The timing belt comes off next.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0266_zpshmwdwc1j.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0266_zpshmwdwc1j.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0268_zpsa73nn6ef.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0268_zpsa73nn6ef.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0264_zps8eupolz4.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0264_zps8eupolz4.jpg.html)



As you can see there's a ton of dirt/oil/grime build up. Not what I was expecting. This little girl has lived a tough life of neglect and poor maintenance. The TB belt however looked fine. It didn't show really any signs of aging like the drive belt/serp belt did. Maybe it was replaced recently? However I'm not taking any chances and a new belt is going in.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0263_zpsqzsfisst.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0263_zpsqzsfisst.jpg.html)


More pics of the dirt build up

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0285_zps4stzkwc1.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0285_zps4stzkwc1.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0265_zpsodnequqn.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0265_zpsodnequqn.jpg.html)


Took off the cam pulley and everything else associated w/ the TB: rollers, tensioner, water pump, thermostat etc.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0282_zpsdz3kz6ou.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0282_zpsdz3kz6ou.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0280_zpsciinpgvt.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0280_zpsciinpgvt.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0281_zpsvycqaqfy.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0281_zpsvycqaqfy.jpg.html)


Water pump showed sign of leaking. The old gasket was disintegrated there wasn't much left of it that I could scrape off. It almost impregnated into the block, I could actually see the labeling of the gasket melted into the aluminum block. The old gasket causing leaks could've been the reason for the build up by the crank gear.

Cleaned the mating surface of the WP w/ a razor blade and scruffing pad.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0277_zpsai1lrcce.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0277_zpsai1lrcce.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0276_zpscq6pokyk.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0276_zpscq6pokyk.jpg.html)


Then the clean up began. Just like CV joint clean up I grabbed the spray bottle and hit up all the grease and grime. It was caked on so thick that brakekleen wasn't working. I decided to grab a couple wire brushes and just started brushing the grime off. Hit it w/ compressed air every once in a while and it started to make some improvements.


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0295_zpsigkbukmn.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0295_zpsigkbukmn.jpg.html)

[bpark1210]

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0294_zpsqsoeiwyq.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0294_zpsqsoeiwyq.jpg.html)


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0284_zpsj7xdqfli.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0284_zpsj7xdqfli.jpg.html)

Slow progress. By now I could see where a lot of oil was collecting and pooling up. The crank seal had an obvious leak. The oil must have been leaking for years then eventually spilling onto the belts and being splattered around hence the shiny glow of all the residue up top around the cam gears. Mix that with years of dirt and sand etc makes for a tough clean up.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0283_zpsnl7sipwk.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0283_zpsnl7sipwk.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0292_zpsbrmvl57a.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0292_zpsbrmvl57a.jpg.html)


After about 2 hrs of cleaning . . . . looking much better:

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0292_zpsbrmvl57a.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0292_zpsbrmvl57a.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0288_zpsy1xincts.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0288_zpsy1xincts.jpg.html)


Started to get dark out. Before ending the day I discovered the front motor mount/torque mount was torn in half.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0297_zpsf6bgxgu6.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0297_zpsf6bgxgu6.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0296_zps03kuqfec.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/IMG_0296_zps03kuqfec.jpg.html)


More parts to order unexpectedly. Dealership wanted about $150, ECS had them for a little less but I need to order some other random little things so blast off another order in hopes of wrapping up the TB job by this weekend. I already have the buffkin pipe for the coolant oil pipe but am unsure if I have the time to spend on it before my trip. I may put it on hold depending on how the VCG's look this weekend. By this time it was getting dark so decided to clean up and grab some parts to clean up later in the week.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/image1%201_zpsxsww4gyo.jpeg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/image1%201_zpsxsww4gyo.jpeg.html)

[bpark1210]

So the TB job has come to a halt. I will not have time to work on it due to work until this Sun and next Thurs. That leaves me 2 weekends and the next 2 Thursday's to complete the TB, VCG's, brakes, and wheel setup. I'm feeling a little bit of pressure to get this complete since the weather forecast calls for rain almost every day I have a chance to work on it.

Since I get off work after it gets dark out I decided to tackle another side project. Pulled the HVAC unit out to replace out some worn buttons. I scored a spare HVAC control unit a couple months ago during my part collection phase. The spare unit has a shiny sheen to the unit compared to the S6's soft feeling plastic. It almost feels like rubber vs. plastic. So doing things the hard way, instead of just replacing the unit I decided to replace just the worn out buttons.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image2_zpssrfmjswj.jpeg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image2_zpssrfmjswj.jpeg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image3_zps4ghbvod2.jpeg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image3_zps4ghbvod2.jpeg.html)

Here's a close up of the original unit. You can see how the "+/-" buttons are all worn down. The passenger side also had issues w/ the buttons sticking. Pulled the radio out then the HVAC control unit can slide right out underneath. Unplug a few wires and brought the unit in the house. Took apart the original unit just the same as the spare but this time needed a torx #6 I believe.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image4_zpsvhmxevnb.jpeg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image4_zpsvhmxevnb.jpeg.html)


The buttons just pop out from the faceplate once you put enough force on it. At first I was trying to pry the buttons out w/ 2 mini flat head screwdrivers but ultimately found putting a little force on them from the inside cover just pops them out.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image6_zpsn7wwlemr.jpeg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image6_zpsn7wwlemr.jpeg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image5_zps4cwbqvmc.jpeg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image5_zps4cwbqvmc.jpeg.html)


Once the buttons pop out just replace them and put the units back together. Really easy fix for any of you that are tired of looking at your worn out buttons.


Before:

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image7_zpswon5q0yj.jpeg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image7_zpswon5q0yj.jpeg.html)

After:

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image9_zpssqyv5djp.jpeg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/ProjectS6%20-%20HVAC%20Controls/image9_zpssqyv5djp.jpeg.html)


Replacing the buttons also helped w/ the sticking buttons on the passenger side. I played around w/ the plastic and metal tabs a little bit to get some more flex to pop the buttons when they are pressed. Worked like a charm. Also while taken apart spent the time to clean the LCD screens and the climate sensor. Lots of dust in the climate sensor had to take a Q-tip to get the dust off all the fins of the fan, but worth it in the end. It's like a brand new unit.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Been pretty much too tired after work to do much more this week. On top of that my iphone5 finally died on me last week so I upgraded my phone to a Google Nexus 5X. Moving from iOS to Android was a little bit of a pain but I've used it in the past. The only thing that pissed me off was I couldn't transfer my pics off the iphone before the memory crapped out which had a ton of pics of all the progress being made on the S6 more so than what I've posted. Then . . . . . .. . .




























My BBK finally showed up Thurs night . . . . . . . whooooo hoooooo!!


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_195257_zpsipncm0sj.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_195257_zpsipncm0sj.jpg.html)


These rotors are massive in size!

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_195312_zpsf931yggb.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_195312_zpsf931yggb.jpg.html)

Same w/ the 18Z calipers

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_195328_zpsaoi1y0jh.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_195328_zpsaoi1y0jh.jpg.html)

Fresh fluids. I always prefer ATE Blue so picked up 2 cans on top of the Pentosin ECS's kit contains.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_1953372_zpssvjtjd4o.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_1953372_zpssvjtjd4o.jpg.html)


Decided to just mock things up and see how it all fits together inside the house


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_203544_zps4kkh7ykx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_203544_zps4kkh7ykx.jpg.html)

ECS shouldered Bolts. These are really the only special item in the kit. For any of you that want to piece this kit together I believe Apikol sells the shouldered bolts. The quality of the ECS kit is very well put together. My only complaint is thier powder coating vendor didn't do a good job. Seals were painted on and a little bit of the original Porsche red shows through on the insides of the calipers. But overall for the price I paid I can't complain. I think I could've pieced together the kit for less but add in costs for powder coating, lines and hardware and it prob would've ran the same. The pads weren't my 1st choice but I haven't heard anything bad about the Hawk HPS pads.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_203733_zps1h9abump.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_203733_zps1h9abump.jpg.html)



Seeing how easy these piece together I'm feeling a little bit better about my deadline of Feb 12th for the 8 hr road trip. I just got word my tires came in today and will be dropping off the wheels to get mounted up this Sat so progress is being made. I'll try to update again as things move along.

Until then here's some more eye candy of those massive brakes and rotors

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_204007_zpsgtq1w0ta.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/IMG_20160128_204007_zpsgtq1w0ta.jpg.html)

[A Stupid Turtle]

That internal feeling I get inside when I get to clean something to this extent..... oh so nice, lol.

[carmudgeon]

I just did my BBK two months ago so I'll return the favor:

Make sure the caliper is sitting flush with the mounting surface on the steering knuckle. You might have to trim a very small amount of metal for clearance. I used a Dremel with a cutting head but a small round or half round hand file would do.

Make sure the rotor is sitting flush with the hub by using bolts to tighten it down. The rotors with the JHM kit fit very snugly over the hub center bore even after removing all the corrosion.

There's considerably more material that will have to be removed for the rotor to clear the knuckle, you can do it with a hand file buts it long, slow, tedious work. Power tools would help. If you look at the bottom of the knuckle you'll see a band of raised metal that resembles a "U". ALL of that has to be ground down flush, plus a little more.

Sorry, no pictures. You're more industrious than I am. [:)]

[Kaane]

pics dont show up.

[bpark1210]

That internal feeling I get inside when I get to clean something to this extent..... oh so nice, lol.

I know it feels real good knowing she's being taken care of.


I just did my BBK two months ago so I'll return the favor:

Make sure the caliper is sitting flush with the mounting surface on the steering knuckle. You might have to trim a very small amount of metal for clearance. I used a Dremel with a cutting head but a small round or half round hand file would do.

Make sure the rotor is sitting flush with the hub by using bolts to tighten it down. The rotors with the JHM kit fit very snugly over the hub center bore even after removing all the corrosion.

There's considerably more material that will have to be removed for the rotor to clear the knuckle, you can do it with a hand file buts it long, slow, tedious work. Power tools would help. If you look at the bottom of the knuckle you'll see a band of raised metal that resembles a "U". ALL of that has to be ground down flush, plus a little more.

Sorry, no pictures. You're more industrious than I am. [:)]

Thanks for the info as always. I will make note of the knuckle needing to be shaved. The ECS instructions mentioned shaving it down for the earlier B5 models but no mention on the C5 chassis. Maybe this gives me a reason to finally pick up a die grinder for my compressor [:D]

[bpark1210]

pics dont show up.

I'm at work and all the pics load for me. They're on sh*tbucket's servers so maybe try refreshing?

[carmudgeon]

That's what I did, die grinder makes quick work of removing most of the material and then I finished it up with some passes with a wide, flat bastard file to clean up the final appearance.

[bpark1210]

Spent all day Sunday working on the front crank seal, VCG's, CCT gasket/half moon, and cleaning cleaning cleaning [wrench][wrench][wrench].

I'll post the in depth update later this week as I get my pic's organized. For now I have a question on the VCG's. For the smaller round spark plug gaskets how did you guys remove them? Mine were hardened over time and essentially molded to the valve cover. I spent about 45 min on one, yes ONE of the round gaskets scraping it w/ various screw drivers, razor blades, and wire brushes. Even hit them up w/ a heat gun. Anyone have some experience getting these things off quickly?

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/IMG_20160131_150959_zpsozsed7i0.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/IMG_20160131_150959_zpsozsed7i0.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/IMG_20160131_151154_zps6so7hrii.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/IMG_20160131_151154_zps6so7hrii.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/IMG_20160131_153019_zpsneig3rc8.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/IMG_20160131_153019_zpsneig3rc8.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/IMG_20160131_152515_zpstn5vp8b8.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/IMG_20160131_152515_zpstn5vp8b8.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/IMG_20160131_153550_zpszgvnlgty.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/IMG_20160131_153550_zpszgvnlgty.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/IMG_20160131_154711_zpszsib8equ.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/IMG_20160131_154711_zpszsib8equ.jpg.html)

I really want to punch someone right now. The VC ate up half my day after cleaning and trying to scrape off all this old gasket. I have 1 spark plug hole pretty clean but am still tackling the 3 others, had to stop due to darkness. Open to suggestions on what to do. My dad stopped by my house today and he said to just torch them out but worried about burning all the oil reside and causing some discoloration.

[JTown77]

Wire brush on a drill?

[bpark1210]

Don't think that will cut it. The rubber has turned to almost hard plastic consistency and conformed so tight to the VC that I could only get a razor blade to really do any work. It was a slow process of shaving a little at a time and working around the circle. The pic above shows a wire bristle being used but it only helped w/ the left over bits of the old gasket.

Maybe my dremel at full speed w/ some sort of sanding disc?

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the suggestion though

[JTown77]

I would also try acetone and brake clean as they both breakdown many rubber and plastic items.

I usually start with the straight wire cups and then use the twisted wire cups if necessary.

[carmudgeon]

The spark plug gaskets are a metal sleeve coated in rubber. I think you did the same thing I did the first time, ground away the rubber until you hit the metal sleeve and then realized the sleeve still has to come out. That's what you're seeing in that last picture with the drill brush.

Take a large pair of pliers and you can just barely grasp the lip of the metal sleeve from the underside of the valve cover and crush it. Some of the gasket material will stick to the valve cover and need to be removed. I ended up using a Dremel with a small soft wire brush to grind away the remaining gasket material. You need to be careful if using power tools since the magnesium alloy is soft.

They're a PITA, once I was done I understood why the shop quoted me almost $1k to do it.

[Kaane]

The sleeve is part of the gasket, you just hit the sleeve from outside with a screwdriver and a hammer and it pops out, no wonder it doesn't want to come off, it's part of it lol :)

[A Stupid Turtle]

Reminds me of rear main seal... I self tapped a screw into it, and pulled it out with pliers lol...

[bpark1210]

The spark plug gaskets are a metal sleeve coated in rubber. I think you did the same thing I did the first time, ground away the rubber until you hit the metal sleeve and then realized the sleeve still has to come out. That's what you're seeing in that last picture with the drill brush.

Take a large pair of pliers and you can just barely grasp the lip of the metal sleeve from the underside of the valve cover and crush it. Some of the gasket material will stick to the valve cover and need to be removed. I ended up using a Dremel with a small soft wire brush to grind away the remaining gasket material. You need to be careful if using power tools since the magnesium alloy is soft.

They're a PITA, once I was done I understood why the shop quoted me almost $1k to do it.

BINGO! that all makes sense now. Thank you, thank you carmudgeon!

[carmudgeon]

Happy to return the favor brother. I've got this thread printed out for when I rebuild my front end later this month.

[8520]

Nice to see another one in the hands of an enthusiast. Keep up the good work

[bpark1210]

Nice to see another one in the hands of an enthusiast. Keep up the good work

Thanks Dre, I've been on the site lurking for a while and saw a while back you picked up an S6 yourself. How's yours going?

[8520]

Thanks Dre, I've been on the site lurking for a while and saw a while back you picked up an S6 yourself. How's yours going?

Slowly. I should update the thread.

[bpark1210]

Next few posts will be a long one as I've compiled pics on the front crank seal, VCG's, and finished the TB job over the weekend and today.

- - - Updated - - -

Spent last Saturday getting my Michelin PSS's mounted up. I went w/ 235/40/19 in front on 19x8.5 and 265/35/19 rears on 19x10.5 on Miro 110's redrilled to 5X112

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/WheelsTires/IMG_20160130_135422_zpsnv8amy4j.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/WheelsTires/IMG_20160130_135422_zpsnv8amy4j.jpg.html)


WIDE WIDE WIDE

I will be using the car as it was meant to be instead of going super low show car status. Hence I wanted more meat on the tires. They have the slightest amount of stretch which will help dial in some offset but other than that I wanted a comfy ride. I roll 215/35/19's Audi Peelers on my Passat Wagon and while it looks nice it can ride harsh. The S6 is primarily my weekend/road trip car so I wanted to have max sidewall and high load rating. I thought about tire selection for a long time. Searched through a bunch of Porsche/BMW/MB threads and ultimately came to this setup which will have rolling diameter's within .37% Load rating will be 96/98 respectively so loading 4 adults, luggage, and golf clubs are no problem. Plus for some reason meaty tires are growing on me.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/WheelsTires/IMG_20160130_162834_zpsas3kn7t4.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/WheelsTires/IMG_20160130_162834_zpsas3kn7t4.jpg.html)














After work and the tire shop with about 2 hrs of day light left I started to tackle the thermostat and front crank seal.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_150639_zps56qsp3kg.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_150639_zps56qsp3kg.jpg.html)

New thermostat, make sure the little tiny ball bearing is at the top.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_151333_zpsh3mlqchd.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_151333_zpsh3mlqchd.jpg.html)






Next wanted to tackle the leaking front crank seal. This was a little tricky. I've never had to replace this seal before but looked easy enough. Grabbed my 5 ft jack bar and slipped it over a 36" breaker bar to break the crank bolt. What a challenge. I almost broke the breaker bar on its own but with the support of the jack bar piece of cake.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_120530_zpsh18jumtq.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_120530_zpsh18jumtq.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_153216_zpsqbeoj60q.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_153216_zpsqbeoj60q.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_153620_zpsmzzwvusx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_153620_zpsmzzwvusx.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_153650_zpsax2yj0jd.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_153650_zpsax2yj0jd.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_153910_zpshpkhg98w.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_153910_zpshpkhg98w.jpg.html)


Once the bolt was loose the crank sprocket/gear comes right off. It slides off a key notch on the crank and can only go back one way. Next step was to remove the seal. I tried all sorts of methods from using screws and pliers to tiny flat head screwdrivers and picks. Ultimately old seal = hardened rubber which was impossible to screw through. Called it a day due to darkness.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_154841_zpspktw395q.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160130_154841_zpspktw395q.jpg.html)



Woke up early on Sun and headed to O'reilly Auto to pick up a seal remover tool. Essentially looks like an ice ax but has very thin blades to work itself into the seal and you use the curve ends to build leverage and pop your seal out. Luckily for me with all the picking I did the day before I could slip one end of the seal remover right in and the seal popped out.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103130_zps3bxevmt5.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103130_zps3bxevmt5.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103421_zps7sb5rxhk.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103421_zps7sb5rxhk.jpg.html)


Clean Clean Clean

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103643_zpsuolg8ypp.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103643_zpsuolg8ypp.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103538_zpsf5bjgslj.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103538_zpsf5bjgslj.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103635_zpsvebbenas.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103635_zpsvebbenas.jpg.html)


Old seal vs. new

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_104014_zpsmniykfv3.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_104014_zpsmniykfv3.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_104023_zpsglpj2rei.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_104023_zpsglpj2rei.jpg.html)


The ECS kit had an Elring seal. As far as I could tell they were identical minus the "audi ring OOOO" logo. They both are manufactured in Brazil

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103927_zps2ym4avm3.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_103927_zps2ym4avm3.jpg.html)


Pressed new seal in w/ a bearing press kit. Just used a press fit the same size and lightly tapped it in w/ a hammer.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_113004_zpscc92wvjc.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_113004_zpscc92wvjc.jpg.html)


Cleaned the crank gear and installed new hardware. This is a must as the crank bolt is a torque to yield. I was patient and waited for this new bolt to arrive before attempting the seal. I don't know why ECS provides you a seal w/o the bolt in the their kit if it's a must replace item. Also remember to oil the crank bolt to get the correct torque on it, 148ft lbs I believe w/ 180* additional. Bust out the 5ft homebrew breaker bar for this.


and here she is all buttoned up:


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_113417_zpslfeulxc9.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_113417_zpslfeulxc9.jpg.html)

[glennda5id]

Are you using a new crank bolt?

[bpark1210]

Next up was the VCG's. I decided to tackle the driver's side first.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_122215_zpsgwlsf39k.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_122215_zpsgwlsf39k.jpg.html)


Lot's of grime and oil residue

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_122739_zpsdzjr4lis.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_122739_zpsdzjr4lis.jpg.html)


Followed the Bentley procedure on removing pretty straight forward. Remove coolant reservoir, move some electrical lines out of the way, loosen dip stick, then tackle the VC bolts. You will also need to loosen the 2 PCV hoses

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_123636_zpsbg2umlhv.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_123636_zpsbg2umlhv.jpg.html)


I was anxious to see how my cams would look after using the LiquiMoly Pro Engine Flush.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_131033_zpscszuhvd4.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_131033_zpscszuhvd4.jpg.html)

Overall the insides looked real healthy. No sludge, no big deposits of carbon or oil buildup. Had a normal looking golden color to it. This was great news. Whether the engine flush had anything to do with it who knows but chains and CCT pads looked very good.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_134112_zpstmrsqiz5.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_134112_zpstmrsqiz5.jpg.html)


Still dirty around where the gaskets were leaking. A little bit of cleanup needed but not as much as I was anticipating.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_131700_zpsh7qu6pxp.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_131700_zpsh7qu6pxp.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135531_zpsuawenkqn.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135531_zpsuawenkqn.jpg.html)


Cleaned up and shiny

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_133622_zpsfd1p6tcp.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_133622_zpsfd1p6tcp.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_134033_zpsdg1ixzby.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_134033_zpsdg1ixzby.jpg.html)



Made real quick work of the cleaning and moved onto the CCT gasket/half moon seal.

as you can see source of the leaks

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_131700_zpsh7qu6pxp.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_131700_zpsh7qu6pxp.jpg.html)


Grabbed my new seals, tensioner gasket, and half moon.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135430_zpscft0dg5m.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135430_zpscft0dg5m.jpg.html)


Decided to go w/ the ol' mechanic trick of just tensioning down the CCT all the way. Loosen all 4 tensioner bolts, rotate cam slight to loosen slack to the top and finesse the gasket out.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135531_zpsuawenkqn.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135531_zpsuawenkqn.jpg.html)


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135836_zpsro5yaoex.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135836_zpsro5yaoex.jpg.html)


Old gasket out

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135644_zpspnqlyeqo.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135644_zpspnqlyeqo.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135907_zpsjpamatbp.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135907_zpsjpamatbp.jpg.html)


Cleaned all the old RTV silicone out for a fresh surface to seal

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135917_zps6qpw1lvl.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_135917_zps6qpw1lvl.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_140517_zpsb3r1jupp.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_140517_zpsb3r1jupp.jpg.html)


Got the new seals in and torqued everything down. While torquing the CCT I noticed a oval plastic gasket of some sorts. I thought it was from the hole where the screw goes in but couldn't get it to go back. Pulled it out and noticed it was oval'd so threw it out. I then later looked at some pic's of the CCT tensioner online and noticed that there is a screen at the bottom of the tensioner. This oval plastic must've been some sort of spacer keeping the screen pressed into the tensioner body. We'll see if I encounter problems down the road but for now the oval gasket was already thrown out and torn in half.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_142205_zpsmp1hwjkp.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_142205_zpsmp1hwjkp.jpg.html)


Next up VC cleaning

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_142729_zpsxrsxaghv.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_142729_zpsxrsxaghv.jpg.html)

Dunked it into a bucket w/ hot water and simple green (but the purple industrial variety). Went through two buckets that got a lot of the muck off but 13 yrs of old oil is some tough shit to remove. Wire brushes, brakekleen etc. This step took way too long. Ended up cleaning all the VC bolts as well.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_150814_zpst493je9f.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_150814_zpst493je9f.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_143447_zpsqvhd3he4.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_143447_zpsqvhd3he4.jpg.html)


Once I was satisfied tackled removing the old spark plug hole gaskets. Lot of swearing and slow progress here. Thanks to carmudgeon for replying back to me as I realized I could just hammer these things out vs. trying to razer blade them off.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_151154_zps0yl76jjt.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_151154_zps0yl76jjt.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_152515_zps9cm6si2x.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160131_152515_zps9cm6si2x.jpg.html)



I got so frustrated at these spark plug hole gaskets it soon became dark and had to stop. Later on in the week I went w/ carmudgeon's advice and ended up hammering a flat dry wall knife in between to create some movement then hit it with a screwdriver to move them further.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_185956_zpsm6ladjzx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_185956_zpsm6ladjzx.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_185724_zpsx7vtzk9q.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_185724_zpsx7vtzk9q.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_185828_zpswbiswzoe.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_185828_zpswbiswzoe.jpg.html)


Once they start moving you can easily knock them out from the top side w/ a screwdriver

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_185933_zpsydcgzc1n.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_185933_zpsydcgzc1n.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_185912_zpsqvlky1md.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_185912_zpsqvlky1md.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_190644_zpsawmt2x2k.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160203_190644_zpsawmt2x2k.jpg.html)



Today (Thurs 2/4/2016)

I wrapped up the VCG. The new Victor Reinz's gasket was very well made. They fit like a glove and have all the proper notches and even 2 little gaskets for the middle VC bolts.


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_090654_zps2x28xmcx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_090654_zps2x28xmcx.jpg.html)

[bpark1210]

Make sure to grab your VC bolts and thread them back in. I jumped the gun and went to install the VC back on w/ RTV silicone laid out when I noticed the VC bolts actually have to thread through the new rubber gasket.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_092106_zpsy8vuwfow.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_092106_zpsy8vuwfow.jpg.html)

Took my time to install back in w/ RTV Silicone in the corner of the CCT and Cam humps. Use a mirror to make sure the gasket is seated properly all the way around. I've installed new gaskets that didn't seat proper and all your hard work is wasted because you'll start leaking again.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_092919_zpstf6udosl.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_092919_zpstf6udosl.jpg.html)



All torqued down and clean.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_093837_zpsao7o08u3.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_093837_zpsao7o08u3.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_093138_zpsnhydofne.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_093138_zpsnhydofne.jpg.html)



Decided to tackle the passenger side but ran into problems. The fuel line hose was disintegrated. I didn't even want to attempt to loosen that bastard and not be able to put it back on. I'll have to skip on the passenger VCG for now. I know it's leaking at the CCT also. I'm also curious to see how the pads on the CCT are doing as I've read bank1 is known for more failures than bank2.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_103512_zpsse7hdqdx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Valve%20Cover%20Gasket/IMG_20160204_103512_zpsse7hdqdx.jpg.html)


This will have to do for now. I'm on a time crunch anyways. T-minus 8 days till I take off for Bandon Dunes Golf Resort. I have Sat afternoon, Sunday, and Thurs to wrap this sucker up. So decided to move forward instead of trying to deal w/ these hiccups. On to the rest of the TB job.


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_112638_zpshhjxkark.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_112638_zpshhjxkark.jpg.html)


Installed all the timing components and torqued. New Gates racing belt

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_112655_zpsexm6jqpu.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_112655_zpsexm6jqpu.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_113017_zpsjbdomhzj.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_113017_zpsjbdomhzj.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_113021_zpsbl5xg4us.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_113021_zpsbl5xg4us.jpg.html)


Installed new front engine torque mount and cleaned up the crank pulley.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160203_200327_zpsgm1uyv1g.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160203_200327_zpsgm1uyv1g.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160203_193750_zpsznafbqhx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160203_193750_zpsznafbqhx.jpg.html)


Remove cam lock bar once everything is dialed in and tensioned.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_134445_zpsqpstkwo8.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_134445_zpsqpstkwo8.jpg.html)


Remove crank lock pin.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_133108_zpsmhmhjxu1.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_133108_zpsmhmhjxu1.jpg.html)


Here's a better look at the 4.2 crank lock pin cover. Again different than the 2.7 cover. Looks more like the oil drain plug not a plastic cover. New crush washer my dealership parts guy threw in for free.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_132726_zpsv7r3ytdy.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_132726_zpsv7r3ytdy.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_132735_zpsw6qtsppw.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_132735_zpsw6qtsppw.jpg.html)



Installed back in, it's located under the hard lines for the power steering. What you're looking at is the back end of my torx socket in the crank lock pin

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_133537_zpshpxx5kxi.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_133537_zpshpxx5kxi.jpg.html)


Turned over 4 times and lined back up to TDC w/ cam lock bar each time. We're gooooood!!!

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_134330_zpsmezh8hys.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_134330_zpsmezh8hys.jpg.html)


Last thing on the TB is to check for tolerances for clearance. Alldatadiy says the belt should clear the cam position sensor by 5mm, I think I got 6.7mm. Also the TB needs to clear the black cam covers by 1mm to prevent the belt from rubbing against the cover we got roughly 1.2mm or something. There is a procedure on adjusting the cam covers by tightening or loosening the nuts around cam gear on the cover.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_145033_zpseiziyqju.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_145033_zpseiziyqju.jpg.html)



Wrapped up new accessory/drive belt. Installed a new tensioner for the accessory belt as the old one was toast.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_140542_zpsxv9kyzpn.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_140542_zpsxv9kyzpn.jpg.html)



I stopped taking pictures at this point because it started to rain. I finished up the accessory belt and wanted to crank the motor to test everything out.


Installed new O-ring for upper coolant pipe

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_145447_zpseqs1potk.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_145447_zpseqs1potk.jpg.html)


The rest of my day went to shiet. I had the worst time trying to get the old oil filter off. Went to the auto store 2 times to find the correct oil filter wrench. The bastard who installed the filter last time did it waaaaaay toooooo tight. Ultimately I had to buy this funny looking rubber grip wrench to get enough leverage to break the filter free

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_154009_zpsdqlhhsza.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_154009_zpsdqlhhsza.jpg.html)



It worked great and made for easy access since I can throw the rubber strap around the filter before locking it into the handle.

Changed out the filter and started to fill the oil up.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_154512_zpsi6e6q7jf.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_154512_zpsi6e6q7jf.jpg.html)

BBD 4.2 is 9 liters according to the Bentley. I have 2X5L containers of this fine LiquiMoly Top Tec 4200 that cost $50 a bottle. I fill it up w/ roughly 8.5L. Check the dip stick and it's waaaay over the max. I'm thinking WTF at this point. So I start dipping the oil stick in a couple times and wiping away oil thinking maybe it's not that much over. Shiet . . . . . it's not going down. I'm thinking all sorts of bad things w/ too much oil. So decide to make a desperate move, I'll just unscrew the oil drain plug enough so that a little oil can drip out. Sounds great right? Big mistake! I installed an ECS magnetic drain plug, as soon as it got loose to the end the plug just jumped out of the hole due to the HE MAN strength magnet on the drain plug. I'm gushing oil all over again. I'm just laughing at this point. This is dejavu from when I was draining the oil. Well FUCK!!!! 8.5L of fresh LiquiMoly down the drain. I got oil all over my self trying to force the damn magnetic plug in but it kept jumping and w/ oily fingers it was impossible to get the drain plug back in. I gave up just let it drain the fuck out. I thought maybe I could just reuse the oil that drained out but it mixed in pretty good w/ the old old oil that was already in the drain pan. I dumped the oil into a 5 gallon water bucket but could already see the oil was pitch black from mixing. FUCK FUCK FUCK [headbang][headbang][headbang].

Moved to spark plugs. Changed both sides no problem. Got dark. Hung it up for the day.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_124116_zpsw8suanqw.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_124116_zpsw8suanqw.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_131351_zpsfbeigya3.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_131351_zpsfbeigya3.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_124452_zpslai1jsbd.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_124452_zpslai1jsbd.jpg.html)

Passenger side finished up in the dark

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_171735_zpsryebzrfq.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_171735_zpsryebzrfq.jpg.html)



So I'm short of filling oil and coolant back up and cranking this beast back up to test everything is working right. I have new oil on order, thank god for Amazon Prime. Won't have oil till Monday. Thought about buying some cheaper oil but it really needs good quality synthetic and I like the properties of TopTec by LiquiMoly to clean the insides on this old engine. Once the beast is good I'll attach the fan back on and button up the front end. I have brakes to change out all four corners, bleed and bed the pads in. The plan is hopefully this weekend all the brakes can get done. Once I get the oil in I should be able to test drive the car Tues/Weds to work. I'll have Thurs off to take it to my alignment guy and get custom lug bolts cut to fit my spacers. I'll also need to address the broken hatch strut on Thurs. Then Friday night I take off on an 8 hr road trip. If all else fails my buddy will drive and the project will be on hold. I still would like tackle the passenger VCG's and the leaky oil cooler pipe this spring. This will prob be my last update for a few weeks as I'm on a time crunch to get shit done.

Hope you've all enjoyed the journey so far. I have some awesome plans in store for this project which one of them has come to fruition. I got a contact in Germany to help me locate a Euro S6 Avant bumper which I will ask my buddy who owns an auto body shop to mold in a 4G S6 rear diffuser into it. Much like this:


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/audi-s6-avant-c7-milltek-exhuast-skn-1_zpspjjw0r9g.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/audi-s6-avant-c7-milltek-exhuast-skn-1_zpspjjw0r9g.jpg.html)


Still on the hunt for a front RS6 bumper and eventually a 6 speed swap will be in the works. I'm thinking of pulling the motor for the swap to address all the other issues w/ leaks and so forth.

[bpark1210]

Are you using a new crank bolt?

Yes

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_113622_zps5pipagwz.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_113622_zps5pipagwz.jpg.html)


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_113737_zpswtgpwxuz.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/Front%20Crank%20Seal/IMG_20160131_113737_zpswtgpwxuz.jpg.html)

[carmudgeon]

My hat is off to you sir. You've managed to cram the work I did in two years into two weeks. In fairness I should add it was kaane's idea to hammer out the spark plug gaskets. I ended up using a large adjustable pliers to crush them to remove them.

And just a heads up, the flexible fuel line that go from the fuel hard line to the injector rail are no longer available for the 4.2. You can either fabricate lines out of 5/16 fuel line or try to get the lines for a different engine to fit.

[bpark1210]

I was on the LiquiMoly website and it states the S6 is 7.5L??? Is that why I overfilled yesterday? How come the Bentley states 9L?

[mr_dave]

Yeah, I get right around 8qts of oil in my S6 with a filter change, which is 7.5L.

[bpark1210]

WTF I feel like an idiot. I thumbed through the Bentley again and saw that the cooling system takes 9L of coolant and it does in fact state the oil capacity is 7.6L. I mixed up the two values, I blame it on working 10hrs straight yesterday w/o a meal break. Total brain fart. Well waiting for fresh oil to get this right. Good thing I didn't try to start the car yesterday which would've lead to more headaches.

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

WTF I feel like an idiot. I thumbed through the Bentley again and saw that the cooling system takes 9L of coolant and it does in fact state the oil capacity is 7.6L. I mixed up the two values, I blame it on working 10hrs straight yesterday w/o a meal break. Total brain fart. Well waiting for fresh oil to get this right. Good thing I didn't try to start the car yesterday which would've lead to more headaches.

Why do u need fresh oil if u just overfilled? Drain some, check level, repeat as needed? Am I missing something?

[bpark1210]

Why do u need fresh oil if u just overfilled? Drain some, check level, repeat as needed? Am I missing something?




In theory yes that was the idea but not what happened. The fresh magnetic drain plug jumped out of the drain hole and well once the oil starts flowing out full speed it's impossible to get the drian plug back in. On top of that the magnet on the drain plug kept jumping out of the hole w/ oily hands. Just a big mess.

I fill it up w/ roughly 8.5L. Check the dip stick and it's waaaay over the max. I'm thinking WTF at this point. So I start dipping the oil stick in a couple times and wiping away oil thinking maybe it's not that much over. Shiet . . . . . it's not going down. I'm thinking all sorts of bad things w/ too much oil. So decide to make a desperate move, I'll just unscrew the oil drain plug enough so that a little oil can drip out. Sounds great right? Big mistake! I installed an ECS magnetic drain plug, as soon as it got loose to the end the plug just jumped out of the hole due to the HE MAN strength magnet on the drain plug. I'm gushing oil all over again. I'm just laughing at this point. This is dejavu from when I was draining the oil. Well FUCK!!!! 8.5L of fresh LiquiMoly down the drain. I got oil all over my self trying to force the damn magnetic plug in but it kept jumping and w/ oily fingers it was impossible to get the drain plug back in. I gave up just let it drain the fuck out. I thought maybe I could just reuse the oil that drained out but it mixed in pretty good w/ the old old oil that was already in the drain pan. I dumped the oil into a 5 gallon water bucket but could already see the oil was pitch black from mixing. FUCK FUCK FUCK .

[Kaane]

LOL, I can rebuild any engine, do any repair in my garage, but I pay people to change my oil. I just hate the mess. Maybe once I get a lift, I will do it. I only do my oil changes when I have no choice when pulling motor.

[bpark1210]

I'm a little jinxed w/ this car. I've never had so many issues w/ just changing the oil. The Passat also has a wierd filter location but I was able to make a nice little catch pan out of a cut up old 2G milk container to catch all the residual oil. The BBD on the other hand is just nuts. The oil flows out like a waterfall and the filter is impossible to get too. It's just a given it will be a mess everytime.

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

I've heard too many horror stories to let anyone else touch my cars anymore. I've come to the conclusion that if I want to be happy in the end, I've gotta just do it myself. (That's what she said?)

[Arsenal2012]

The rest of my day went to shiet. I had the worst time trying to get the old oil filter off. Went to the auto store 2 times to find the correct oil filter wrench. The bastard who installed the filter last time did it waaaaaay toooooo tight. Ultimately I had to buy this funny looking rubber grip wrench to get enough leverage to break the filter free

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_154009_zpsdqlhhsza.jpg (http://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20TB/TB%20Finish/IMG_20160204_154009_zpsdqlhhsza.jpg.html)

When this happens to me, I grab a long Phillips and smash(by smash I mean punch it through gently) it thru the oil filter for leverage, it gets messy but does the job [up]
Beats running back and forth to the auto store and saves time and monies.



Like This...
http://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clublexus.com-vbulletin/907x680/80-oilfilter01_b009038a319a2e46335970d2d30d897c399f91 46.jpg


P.S. looks good, I had to do a lot of this crap and it blew.

[mr_dave]

I've used something like this when I overfilled the oil before. Just stuck a small tube down the dipstick tube. It wasn't very fast but it worked.

http://www.amazon.com/Hand-Pump-Siphon-Gas-Liquid/dp/B004107292

[bpark1210]

Well good news and bad news. My oil showed up early today, on a Sunday (gotta love Amazon being in my home town w/ Prime delivery). Filled her up and she fired right up. No dash lights or CEL. I'll scan her w/ VAGCOM once I get a few miles on her to make sure it's all tidy.

Today was suppose to be a quick brake maintenance day w/ upgraded brakes on all 4 corners. It was suppose to be 2 bolts holding the caliper on each corner and swap out for my parts. Well sad to say although the ECS BBK gives the impression of a bolt on upgrade it's far from it. So the bad news, there are fitment issues even w/ their custom 2 piece rotor. I'm thinking it was developed for the B5/B6 S4 chassis because the rotor does not line up to the caliper. The offset is about 2-4 mm too outward, the caliper needs to be shifted out away from the engine to center the rotor. Spent all day shaving the uprights to get the calipers to fit over the massive 352mm rotors but it's not a good fit. I'm going to have to shave down the caliper mounting holes when I have more time. Also it seems on the S6 the caliper does not sit far enough out to handle the 352mm rotor. The rotor rubs inside the caliper and protrudes beyond where the brake pad retainer bolt should slide through. I'll have to test fit it again but if the caliper pad retainer pin cannot slide through then the brake pads will not stay in place and the rotors won't work. I'll have to contact ECS about this. I'm thinking that's why the JHM BBK uses a 350mm rotor as it would have the appropriate clearance.

[carmudgeon]

See my PM if you haven't already. I had similar issues with the JHM BBK.

[bpark1210]

See my PM if you haven't already. I had similar issues with the JHM BBK.


Thanks carmudgeon. I just read it. I'll have to check again this week when I have time but not sure that's the problem. My rotor seated very easy over the hub ring and seemed to have the correct hub bore size.

[carmudgeon]

You may have to remove a small amount of metal from the knuckle, not to change the offset on the caliper but so the caliper mounting surface is flush with the mounting surface on the knuckle. The caliper may be hitting the inner radius on the knuckle that curves down to become the mounting surface for the caliper, which would prevent the caliper from sitting flush and throw off the offset. It's hard to explain without pictures but once you look at it you'll understand.

That, and the rotor not being seated fully on the hub are the issues I went through. That sounds similar to what you're facing. The fitment is tight so it doesn't take much to throw it off.

[mr_dave]

Well sad to say although the ECS BBK gives the impression of a bolt on upgrade it's far from it. So the bad news, there are fitment issues even w/ their custom 2 piece rotor. I'm thinking it was developed for the B5/B6 S4 chassis because the rotor does not line up to the caliper.

The kit was sold as a C5 S6 bolt on BBK? I'm not a fan of ECS as it is, but that is really poor.

[bpark1210]

Yup listed under the C5 S6 as a BBK. The instructions don't indicate anything other than the early B5 models lower knuckle needing to be shaved. As far as I can tell none of the C5 S6 knuckle needs to be shaved for rotor clearance however due to the offset of the rotor ECS supplies the 18z caliper has fitment issues. I'll check one more time based on carmugdeon's advice. I've read up on some old S6 18z Bremobo threads on AZ and as far as I could tell there were always fitment issues w/ these calipers. The reason I went w/ the ECS kit was that they made it seem like their "custom 2 piece" rotors were a bolt on affair. I've already ground down the insides of my brand new calilpers due to rubbing issues which haven't solved anything so far. I'll test it one more time then decide what to do. I'm pretty sure the 352mm rotor is also too big by 2mm. It blocks the caliper pin from going through which is pointless if you cannot lock your pads in place.

[bpark1210]

You may have to remove a small amount of metal from the knuckle, not to change the offset on the caliper but so the caliper mounting surface is flush with the mounting surface on the knuckle. The caliper may be hitting the inner radius on the knuckle that curves down to become the mounting surface for the caliper, which would prevent the caliper from sitting flush and throw off the offset. It's hard to explain without pictures but once you look at it you'll understand.

That, and the rotor not being seated fully on the hub are the issues I went through. That sounds similar to what you're facing. The fitment is tight so it doesn't take much to throw it off.


I made note of your other post a couple weeks ago and did grind down the mounting points on the upgright. In fact I shaved off about 2mm on the mounting point thinking it would help line up the caliper but I'm still touching the outer pins and the outer brake pad rubs on the rotor.

[carmudgeon]

I think all the BBK's for the S6 were originally developed for the B5/6 S4. Someone afterwards probably came along and said 'I wonder if this will fit an S6 since the suspension is about the same".

I always take 'bolt on' with a grain of salt. Even the 'bolt on' Wilwood 4 piston calipers I put on the Miata this weekend required some similar trimming of the knuckle.

[bpark1210]

Yeah I just wish the ECS kit instructions didn't make it seem a quick and easy bolt on. I would've left my brakes alone and had to opportunity to take the car out and stretch her legs on my 8 hr trip this weekend. Now I'm stuck w/ no front brakes and assume the stock HP2 calipers won't line up since I fab'd up the mounting point on the knuckle.

[carmudgeon]

The rotor offset might just require some fiddling but what's weird is the pad retaining bolt not clearing the rotor. Did you get a response from ECS yet? Maybe its the wrong rotor.

[bpark1210]

Not yet. I'm at work and will try to call them tonight.

[bpark1210]

Quick update. The ECS BBK w/ 18Z Bremebo/Porsche Calipers are not specifically pieced together for the C5 S6. Pretty dissapointing. They have pretty much denied they were in the wrong here as they state on their website that the rotors are to be used w/ a specific offset. I asked them why do they post the product under the specific model/make/year for my car. If the offset is incorrect why even list the product as a C5 S6 specific product? Fed up w/ ECS at this point. They will not take the calipers back since I've had to drill away material to fit their wrong size rotors. They are taking the rotors back for a partial refund but I will have to ship them on my dime (we're talking close to 50lbs).

I'm going to confirm all their info tonight on offset #'s to make sure we are all on the same page but it does sound like the ECS kit uses a 352mmx32mm rotor designed for offset on the S4 chassis. This explains why I couldn't fit the rotor in not only to center it but also the outer diameter blocking the caliper pad pin from goining in. They have a generic BBK pieced together trying to sell it off on a multi platform w/o checking specific fitment. What a shame. ECS has lost all my future business.
They made the mistake of advertising a bolt on kit specifically for a C5 S6, and now want to blame me for not checking the offset of my original rotors. Am I missing something here, is there more than one offset available to the S6 rotor? I call BS on ECS's part.

[Arsenal2012]

Quick update. The ECS BBK w/ 18Z Bremebo/Porsche Calipers are not specifically pieced together for the C5 S6. Pretty dissapointing. They have pretty much denied they were in the wrong here as they state on their website that the rotors are to be used w/ a specific offset. I asked them why do they post the product under the specific model/make/year for my car. If the offset is incorrect why even list the product as a C5 S6 specific product? Fed up w/ ECS at this point. They will not take the calipers back since I've had to drill away material to fit their wrong size rotors. They are taking the rotors back for a partial refund but I will have to ship them on my dime (we're talking close to 50lbs).

I'm going to confirm all their info tonight on offset #'s to make sure we are all on the same page but it does sound like the ECS kit uses a 352mmx32mm rotor designed for offset on the S4 chassis. This explains why I couldn't fit the rotor in not only to center it but also the outer diameter blocking the caliper pad pin from goining in. They have a generic BBK pieced together trying to sell it off on a multi platform w/o checking specific fitment. What a shame. ECS has lost all my future business.
They made the mistake of advertising a bolt on kit specifically for a C5 S6, and now want to blame me for not checking the offset of my original rotors. Am I missing something here, is there more than one offset available to the S6 rotor? I call BS on ECS's part.

Full refund on rotors, partial on Calipers. They pay for shipping too.

They should never have listed direct fit if it was not.

[carmudgeon]

The rotor offset is the same for all the 4.2 cars; A6, S6, or Allroad. It's different however than the V6 cars.

[glennda5id]

When doing the 18z you need to shave the the steel uprights I believe (maybe its the other way around).

The B5/B6/B7 all have the same offset hub as the C5. Maybe they sent you the wrong rotors? (Ahh, see note above - I do not know about the v8 cars.)

Can you link to the kit?

[carmudgeon]

And to be clear, the offset on the stock V8 rotor is different than the offset needed for the custom rotors that come with the 17z/18z kits.

Are they going to exchange a different diameter rotor?

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

I had a bad experience with ECS as well and refuse to give them any of my money.

[carmudgeon]

I'll vouch for the JH Motorsports BBK, I have their 17z kit on my S6. You do have to trim some metal from the knuckle for the rotor to clear but other than that its pretty straightforward.

[bpark1210]

I'm going to measure what ECS says is the correct offset for the application and report back. To me it sounds like the offset on an S6 to fit the 18Z caliper is a custom offset which JHM has dialed in to their kit. I'm thinking the ECS kit may have the offset for a B5 S4 and just being advertised as S6 BBK bolt on fitment. I have already ground down the mounting points on my uprights trying to align rotors and calipers. In fact the back mounting pad is shaved all the way down flush w/ the rest of the upright. I'd say I spent 6 hrs on Sunday hand shaving and die grinding the mounting points 2-2.5mm from stock. ECS has clearly put a disclaimer on the product website that states: "For cars with 16.7mm offset on original rotors" . . . . well how the hell am I suppose to know that with out taking off my original rotors first when ordering? They claim the S6 uses 2 different rotor offsets. I told them they are wrong. They tell me that's what thier in house Audi tech says and that I have the wrong rotors for my application if they don't line up. So they are using the disclaimer clearly printed on the product page to say it's my fault for not checking fitment first. I tell them they're in the wrong for advertising the product in the first place for an S6 becuase we only have 1 rotor size/offset for C5 S6's. I suggested they update their website and take the product down for the C5 S6 and she responded it it was right becuase they're multiple fitments available for our cars. I said they are probably mixing up the narrow body A6 and 4.2's and she still refused to acknowlege they were in the wrong. Yeah great customer service.

[carmudgeon]

Figuring out the rotor offset is one thing, but if the rotor doesn't clear the pad retaining bolt in the caliper its just the wrong rotor. There's nothing you could have done to screw that up. That just tells me they don't have their information straight and never mocked it up on a V8 car.

[bpark1210]

Yup 352mm is 2mm too big to allow the caliper pad retaining pin to slide through. Just plain stupid.

[rollerton]

Quick update. The ECS BBK w/ 18Z Bremebo/Porsche Calipers are not specifically pieced together for the C5 S6. Pretty dissapointing They have pretty much denied they were in the wrong here as they state on their website that the rotors are to be used w/ a specific offset..


From my experience ECS ALWAYS DOES THIS. They take your money and when they have it, screw you. Whether the parts are the same, wrong, bent, whatever. It's NEVER their fault. EVER. Go public and you'll get a sugary apology and some other B.S and once in a while they make good, but usually not.
I will go VERY far out of my way to not purchase from them. And this doesn't take into consideration their shipping prices/ policies. Their excuse is rational and "we have a warehouse to run, shipping isn't cheap!" . 100% understandable, so they must have a poor business model since not only is their shipping 100% higher than ANYWHERE else, but generally so are their prices.

/ rant
I like some of their employees, no blame to them. It's just the corporate policies they have suck a dong.

[SteelyS6]

ECS sucks, I'm in agreement on that one, just dealt with some of their bullshit recently.

[ChicagosPhantom]

Girodisc FTW!
That's giro disc dot com.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160210/2543ae787eba9e04e9b60d015de96914.jpg
Assembled my own kit,better quality,it's exactly as I wanted and less $$ then ECS kits.
So far I had good experience with ECS but I do really look into things before I buy,don't take any advertisement for granted.

[bpark1210]

I did do a bunch of research on everything I purchased before I pursued my resto/mod project. I read through a bunch of the old threads here and knew it would come down to rotor offset. It just sucks that ECS falsely advertised something that is not specific for the S6. Now they refuse to make it right and blame me for ordering their product that doesn't fit. I will give them one more call on my day off this week to give them a chance to make it right and take back their rotors on their dime. They are nice rotors and nothing against quality but it grinds my gears they won't fess up to say that these kits are not specific to the C5 V8 cars. I looked at the box on the rotors and they are labeled as B5S4 rotors, obviously the S4's have different rotor hub offsets than the C5 V8's otherwise our stock rotors would be interchangeable.

I did look into the girodisc stuff during my part collection phase but never saw anything specific to the S6. Mind sharing the rotor spec info?

[glennda5id]

I did some light research. I think the rotors are the same. Are you putting the calipers on the correct side of the mount?

[glennda5id]

What is the height of your current rotor?

[ChicagosPhantom]

I did do a bunch of research on everything I purchased before I pursued my resto/mod project. I read through a bunch of the old threads here and knew it would come down to rotor offset. It just sucks that ECS falsely advertised something that is not specific for the S6. Now they refuse to make it right and blame me for ordering their product that doesn't fit. I will give them one more call on my day off this week to give them a chance to make it right and take back their rotors on their dime. They are nice rotors and nothing against quality but it grinds my gears they won't fess up to say that these kits are not specific to the C5 V8 cars. I looked at the box on the rotors and they are labeled as B5S4 rotors, obviously the S4's have different rotor hub offsets than the C5 V8's otherwise our stock rotors would be interchangeable.

I did look into the girodisc stuff during my part collection phase but never saw anything specific to the S6. Mind sharing the rotor spec info?
I'm sure you did research,you seam like knowledgeable guy and very precise,I read through your thread and I'm sorry if I sounded like 'it's your fault'.
You said ECS sent you B5 rotors and that's totally unacceptable,because those aren't gonna fit V8,you're not doing anything wrong,so save yourself headache and get ECS to correct their screw up.
Girodisc's are 355x22 for 18z calipers and they clearly state on their website that their rotors WON'T fit V8 C5's.I thought they're making rotors for widebody,but they don't,I've just checked a moment ago.They do make RS6 one's but they don't fit A6/S6,unfortunately.
JHM might be your only option for rotors,as I haven't saw anyone else carrying C5 V8 specific one's.

[glennda5id]

I justed checked ETKA and if you have the Lucas HP2 calipers there is only one rotor size and it is the same across all C5 vehicles which is the 320mm rotor.

[bpark1210]

The overall rotor diameter might be the same but V6 and V8 cars use different offset rotor hubs. Thank you for you input.

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

From my experience ECS ALWAYS DOES THIS. They take your money and when they have it, screw you. Whether the parts are the same, wrong, bent, whatever. It's NEVER their fault. EVER. Go public and you'll get a sugary apology and some other B.S and once in a while they make good, but usually not.
I will go VERY far out of my way to not purchase from them. And this doesn't take into consideration their shipping prices/ policies. Their excuse is rational and "we have a warehouse to run, shipping isn't cheap!" . 100% understandable, so they must have a poor business model since not only is their shipping 100% higher than ANYWHERE else, but generally so are their prices.

/ rant
I like some of their employees, no blame to them. It's just the corporate policies they have suck a dong.

Couldn't agree more. I bought an OE Valeo alternator from them since FCP had reman'd Bosch units and Valeo is what came on the car originally and I am/was anal like that, so I went with them even though it was significantly more expensive. This is after having to drive my car through a salt water river(my block) during Super Storm Sandy in order to save it from being flooded, and the alternator, starter, and oil sensor were toasted. So needless to say, shitty times, car was on jackstands in my driveway for at least a month.

So I get this alternator from them, and it literally looks like it was thrown down 967 sets of stairs, used as a soccer ball by the world, then sent to me, in JUST the original Valeo box, NO extra protection whatsoever. They actually had the balls to try and fight me on it, AND THEN tried to get me to pay for shipping it back to them. I went off on them and got my money back and a shipping label, but refuse to ever do business with them again. The treatment I got from their "customer service dept" was the polar opposite of what it should be, they act like they don't need your business and straight up like they're better than you, I don't need that shit, they can keep it.

Keep us posted and let us know if there's any way we can help.

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

Girodisc FTW!
That's giro disc dot com.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160210/2543ae787eba9e04e9b60d015de96914.jpg
Assembled my own kit,better quality,it's exactly as I wanted and less $$ then ECS kits.
So far I had good experience with ECS but I do really look into things before I buy,don't take any advertisement for granted.

Care to share more details? I scored a pair of 17z's locally for super cheap, picked up some mounting hardware for them but that was it, still have to piece together the rest.

[glennda5id]

The overall rotor diameter might be the same but V6 and V8 cars use different offset rotor hubs. Thank you for you input.

I'm showing the same rotor part number and caliper. They must fit. Can the OP measure his rotor?

[bpark1210]

Couldn't agree more. I bought an OE Valeo alternator from them since FCP had reman'd Bosch units and Valeo is what came on the car originally and I am/was anal like that, so I went with them even though it was significantly more expensive. This is after having to drive my car through a salt water river(my block) during Super Storm Sandy in order to save it from being flooded, and the alternator, starter, and oil sensor were toasted. So needless to say, shitty times, car was on jackstands in my driveway for at least a month.

So I get this alternator from them, and it literally looks like it was thrown down 967 sets of stairs, used as a soccer ball by the world, then sent to me, in JUST the original Valeo box, NO extra protection whatsoever. They actually had the balls to try and fight me on it, AND THEN tried to get me to pay for shipping it back to them. I went off on them and got my money back and a shipping label, but refuse to ever do business with them again. The treatment I got from their "customer service dept" was the polar opposite of what it should be, they act like they don't need your business and straight up like they're better than you, I don't need that shit, they can keep it.

Keep us posted and let us know if there's any way we can help.


Both of you seem to know exactly what I'm going through. The cust service rep yesterday was unapolgetic and made me seem like the being in the wrong for ordering a product they clearly label as compatible for my car. I shot one more "nice" email to them before I blow my top.

[bpark1210]

I'm showing the same rotor part number and caliper. They must fit. Can the OP measure his rotor?


Do me a favor and cross reference a B5 S4 rotor part# vs. a C5 S6 rotor part#.

My research shows they are different. They have to be different due to the hub offset on our cars, we have the same oem rotor size 321mmX30mm but rotors will not center right on the wrong application. ECS compiled a kit w/ for the B5 S4 (the rotor box clearly states "B5 Stage 4 XS Left/Right") chassis selling off as direct bolt on fitment to the C5 S6. This is my gripe w/ the order and their lack of owning up to a mistake.

[carmudgeon]

If the rotor doesn't fit you must acquit.

[bpark1210]

If the rotor doesn't fit you must acquit.


HAHAH thank you for making light of my situation. I'm not stressing, the car hasn't really moved in 2 months and it started up fine on Sunday w/ no CEL. Just wish I had her to run down to Bandon Dunes this weekend for some great driving roads but such is life. I will get the resto/mod back on track next week.

[bpark1210]

Soooo ECS has agreed to send me a free shipping return label. A couple emails back and forth and I've convinced them for now to pull the BBK off of the C5S6 specific product offering. They say they will have to look into which year the model changed offsets before selling it again. I still don't think they understand that B5 S4 V6 rotors they sent differ in offset w/ 4.2 V8's. But at least they are pulling the product so no one else has to go through what happened to me. They claim they've fitted the kit to an actual C5 S6 no problem but wouldn't dive into giving me documentation. I've pulled the trigger on JHM LW 350mm rotors and they confirmed they have the correct offset for the V8 application. CA to WA shipping is quite fast so should have these in a few days.

[carmudgeon]

Woohoo, gives you plenty of time to start grinding down the uprights to clear the rotor. [;)]

[bpark1210]

Already ahead of the game, did that on Sunday

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[carmudgeon]

The only issue I had with the JHM kit was the caliper mounting bolts were juuuuust slightly too long and ran into the rotor. I had to shave a couple of millimeters off the end of the bolts.

[dannyn424]

actually the c5 a6 2.7t's had two different rotor offsets, ask me how i know

[Battle_Tested]

Did you leave the crank pin in place to hold the crank from moving counter clockwise to break the bolt lose or how did you keep the crank from moving? Im doing my TB job right now belt is still on and need to get the crank bolt lose. Did you use a OE torque mount? I ordered the 034 motorsport one and it appears to be shorter. Mine is complete torn as well so Im not sure if the motor needs to be raised to close the cap for the new torque mount. My leaks look identical to yours..lol

[bpark1210]

Did you leave the crank pin in place to hold the crank from moving counter clockwise to break the bolt lose or how did you keep the crank from moving? Im doing my TB job right now belt is still on and need to get the crank bolt lose. Did you use a OE torque mount? I ordered the 034 motorsport one and it appears to be shorter. Mine is complete torn as well so Im not sure if the motor needs to be raised to close the cap for the new torque mount. My leaks look identical to yours..lol
I just got back from vacation and saw your post. The crank lock pin is all you'll need to keep it in place. Just make sure you double check it once you initially insert it that it is seated and locked in to TDC. The crank will have a little tiny bit of give but you should feel resistance if the crank is moved any more than a degree.

I used an OEM front torque mount as that was the only thing I could find when researching the part number. No lifting the engine for me to make it fit. Honestly I wouldn't mess w another design if it's shorter than stock.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[Battle_Tested]

Thanks bpark1210... I got the crank bolt off yesterday with ease once I trusted that crank pin to hold up. I did order 034 torque mount and will return it and go with a OE. Making the mount work isn't worth the trouble.

[Battle_Tested]

Did you dry install or lube the crank seal? So lube the crank bolt with engine oil?

[bpark1210]

Did you dry install or lube the crank seal? So lube the crank bolt with engine oil?
The seal goes on dry and should sit for a couple hours to set. You should apply a little oil to the threads of the crank bolt to achieve proper torque spec.


Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[Battle_Tested]

Got it. Had a good time removing the crank seal. Did that washer on the crank move/losen in you? I'll tackle the crank seal tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback

[BasicA6]

This is by far the best restoration i have seen in a long time!

[bpark1210]

Got it. Had a good time removing the crank seal. Did that washer on the crank move/losen in you? I'll tackle the crank seal tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback

I had a tough time w/ that crank seal too. I think it took quite a bit of hacking out some small pieces to make the crank seal remover tool to fit. But once you get the tool in w/ some leverage it just pops right out. The washer on the crank bolt should loosen, it's just a washer. The new crank bolt I had already had a washer installed on it. Pretty sure the washer is not removable from what I can remember, the threads are bigger than the washer and it wouldn't budge on me.

[bpark1210]

So great news after spending the last couple days recovering from my Bandon Dunes Golf trip w/ the boys I decided to tackle the brakes again today. I had ECS agree to take back their piece of sh*t rotors included w/ their so called "bolt on" "stage 4 BBK" and shot an order off w/ JHM. Those guys are good w/ communication and responded right away to my questions on their rotors and gave me tracking info as soon as they shipped. Needless to say I'm impressed w/ their service and speedy order processing. I think I ordered the rotors on a Thurs and they were delivered on Sat while I was on vacay.

First I'll start w/ the failed attempt of installing the ECS BBK stg 4 kit.

Removed the OE caliper. Two bolts 19mm I believe. On the drivers side I messed around for bit trying to get the pads and caliper loosened but in the end to save you guys some time if pulling the entire caliper for new ones all you need to do is remove the 2 19mm bolts on the inside of the caliper.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_094611_zpsk7npniww.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_094611_zpsk7npniww.jpg.html)

Once the caliper is removed you can slide the rotor off and the brake dust shield.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_094601_zpsmitdk3nl.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_094601_zpsmitdk3nl.jpg.html)


Got my new die grinder out and proceeded to clean

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_100154_zps5fudjryf.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_100154_zps5fudjryf.jpg.html)


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_100159_zpsmg57p9ga.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_100159_zpsmg57p9ga.jpg.html)


Nice and clean [:D][:D]

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_101356_zpsylpgqafk.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_101356_zpsylpgqafk.jpg.html)



Clean off the ECS rotor w/ brakekleen and prep for install

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_101815_zpsua9ofdaf.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_101815_zpsua9ofdaf.jpg.html)


The rotor was a tight fit but had just enough clearance from hitting the lower spindle

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_103527_zpsmle2eb6r.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_103527_zpsmle2eb6r.jpg.html)


Next was to install the caliper over the rotor. ECS supplies the necessary shouldered bolts and nylock nuts. Initially I found the caliper to be hitting the outside of the rotor. The caliper pins on the outer side would touch the outer rotor. At first I thought this was what carmudgeon was talking about so decided to get the grinder and hand files out to grind 2-4mm off of the mounting points on the hub spindle. Spent a good amount of time just grinding and filing crouched under the wheel well like the hunch back of Notre Dame.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_115701_zpsunspeuvb.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_115701_zpsunspeuvb.jpg.html)


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_120155_zpssixunrpx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_120155_zpssixunrpx.jpg.html)


As you can see there is touching. Grinding away all that material only to get so little clearance didn't seem right. I started to rotate the rotor and noticed not only was it touching the inside of the rotor where the brake pad pins were but also the insides of the calipers where the rotor spins. Decided that these BBK usually don't always fit as described so took some discretion to start grinding away material on the caliper.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_115834_zpstbqqgclf.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_115834_zpstbqqgclf.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_141335_zpsfezj0f5m.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_141335_zpsfezj0f5m.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_141338_zpsvahbwdvi.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_141338_zpsvahbwdvi.jpg.html)



Basically I fucked up the calipers to what ECS stated as being "bolt on". I didn't realize it at the time because I was just trying to make it work but after spending 3-4 hrs hand filing down the calipers and mounting points I knew something was wrong.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_141343_zpsq98neu35.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_141343_zpsq98neu35.jpg.html)


Lower caliper/outer pin still toucing:

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_125345_zpsp5h0arhh.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_125345_zpsp5h0arhh.jpg.html)



Upper caliper/outer pin still touching:

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_125340_zpsxsxuiikh.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_125340_zpsxsxuiikh.jpg.html)


See all the room on the inside of the caliper, while the outside is touching the rotor

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_141436_zpsnvdu6cz5.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_141436_zpsnvdu6cz5.jpg.html)


I tried to test fit the brake pads in to see how this all mocked up but could clearly tell the outer pad was touching and rubbing. The rotor could not spin freely.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_150957_zps8x7kkwzb.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_150957_zps8x7kkwzb.jpg.html)


Decided to hand grind down the pad some

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_150719_zpsicee8n69.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_150719_zpsicee8n69.jpg.html)


No improvement. The last and final straw w/ this install was testing the caliper guide pin that holds the pads in position

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_151538_zpsrmurjydv.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_151538_zpsrmurjydv.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_151606_zpsvnz1osir.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_151606_zpsvnz1osir.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_151628_zpsk1j0kyyq.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Fail/IMG_20160207_151628_zpsk1j0kyyq.jpg.html)

*rant begin*

As you can see the rotors are too big (352mm vs JHM's 350mm) to allow the pin to thread through. Well what the hell? How am I suppose to fit this? Grind down the rotors by 2mm? Yeah right, that's when I was fed up w/ this ECS kit. I started to reach out to you guys and clearly what I was sent was a B5 S4 specific BBK setup. The offset of the rotor is for V6 cars and the rotor size doesn't work w/ the S6. So after numerous calls and emails to ECS I finally got it escalated to a manager. They still stand by that this kit was developed and tested for an actual C5 S6. I asked to see documentation of the install and they responded that they could spend all that time looking into it but would rather just take care of me and send me a free shipping label. In the end I had to fight for what was clearly their mistake and the gripe I have w/ them is they still don't own up to this being an incorrect kit. The rep I spoke w/ thanked me for bringing it to their attention and that they would correct the product to ensure they state what year model split would accept their kit. I'm pulling my hair out! Just a little fed up w/ their I'm right, you don't know what you're talking about attitude. As for my business moving forward I just don't know if I can order from them again. Like some of you have said I will spend my time going out of my way if I can to avoid ordering from them. Total bullshit experience.

*end rant*

[bpark1210]

I was fortunate enough to have both the ECS 352MMx32mm and JHM 350mmX32mm rotors in my possession. So here are the comparison pictures for anyone that is interested. By the way ECS if you're reading LOOK AT THE PICTURES, THE OFFSETS ARE CLEARLY DIFFERENT!!

ECS rotor on the left, JHM on the right

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160218_104159_zpsytxlkaj0.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160218_104159_zpsytxlkaj0.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160218_104214_zps75luyerg.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160218_104214_zps75luyerg.jpg.html)


I also have pictures showing measurements of rotor hat offset. I don't want to display these as JHM has spent their time developing a C5 S6 specific rotor and respectively don't want to give away their hard work.

Rotor diameter was very close. 352mm vs 350mm wasn't much of a difference.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160218_104321_zpsyxbxu3du.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160218_104321_zpsyxbxu3du.jpg.html)


Sweep area on 350mm JHM

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160218_104446_zpsr46j3yvj.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160218_104446_zpsr46j3yvj.jpg.html)


Sweep area on 352mm ECS rotor

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160218_104423_zpsxr4ml7aj.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160218_104423_zpsxr4ml7aj.jpg.html)


Onto the install [wrench][wrench][wrench]

Checked rotor hat hardware as JHM recommends. Checked w/ my digital torque wrench and all but 1 out of the 20 bolts was torqued to 10 ft lbs. Cleaned surface w/ brakekleen. Installed onto hub.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_113822_zps1ikrpoik.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_113822_zps1ikrpoik.jpg.html)


Just like before a tight fit to the spindle but just enough clearance

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_113845_zpsawet0qwg.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_113845_zpsawet0qwg.jpg.html)


Caliper installed w/ ease

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_115306_zps5q1yhqn7.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_115306_zps5q1yhqn7.jpg.html)


Ample clearance on the outside pins of the caliper!!

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_115316_zpsu1kitzk9.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_115316_zpsu1kitzk9.jpg.html)


and the inside too!

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_115323_zps6vl48ye6.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_115323_zps6vl48ye6.jpg.html)


and just to make sure the caliper pin


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_115444_zps1ygptqqh.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_115444_zps1ygptqqh.jpg.html)


FUCK YEAH!!! THANK YOU JHM!!!


Everything else installed w/ ease. Got pads in, pad retainer, pad retaining pin, sensors and lines all connected. This install was flying through. No hiccups this time around.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_120000_zpsyek8cw6z.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_120000_zpsyek8cw6z.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_121511_zpslxvuqgdn.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_121511_zpslxvuqgdn.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_121556_zpsxyjfpxkk.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_121556_zpsxyjfpxkk.jpg.html)


ECS supplied connector for Porsche pad sensor to OEM Audi sensor. This is a great time saver from the ECS kit but does allow for some awkward extra length of wire to be tucked away.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_121716_zpsv1tiyeld.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_121716_zpsv1tiyeld.jpg.html)


That's it. Install done. This is how it should've been the other week and I could've driven the car down on an awesome 8 hr road trip.




Here are pics on the passenger side

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_130951_zpsf1tp1heo.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_130951_zpsf1tp1heo.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_135159_zps2wo95ohr.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_135159_zps2wo95ohr.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_132519_zpsxpbfkd6m.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_132519_zpsxpbfkd6m.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_141318_zpskwizy446.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_141318_zpskwizy446.jpg.html)


No rubbing issues here

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_141325_zpskkfxwg3m.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_141325_zpskkfxwg3m.jpg.html)


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_141331_zpsn62wcuip.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_141331_zpsn62wcuip.jpg.html)


Found some brake squeal paste inside the brake pad box from HAWK. Prepped the passenger pads.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_141900_zpsvjrm75c0.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_141900_zpsvjrm75c0.jpg.html)


I forgot to smear some of the paste onto the drivers side but no problem, the Porsche calipers are so easy to switch the pads out. Just remove the pin, slide the pads out, smeared on the brake squeal paste and slide right back together. Love having these new 18z calipers, brake pads are going to be a breeze to change out in the future. Can switch them out in less than 5 min.

Next onto brake bleeding. The 18z's have two caliper bleeders on the inside/outside. Started w/ the passenger per Bentley and then onto drivers. Mocked up my homebrew brake bleeder catch bottle. For those who are interested it's just a Gatorade bottle w/ a brake bleeder line. Drill out a hole in the cap, just big enough for the bleeder hose. Then attach to the bleeder screw w/ a zip tie for extra insurance to keep it tight.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_150552_zpswcxcp2f4.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_150552_zpswcxcp2f4.jpg.html)


Bleeding the brakes takes some time. I noticed at first it took a little fiddling w/ the bleeder screws to get the right pressure going out. You have to play around w/ how loose or tight the screw is to get enough brake pedal feel and liquid out. I started w/ the inner bleeders first. It took quite a bit of bleeding to get a firm peddle going. I noticed as I was depressing the brake peddle that the brake reservoir would start to gargle after about 5 pumps. Realized that the brake booster does a very good job at pumping brake fluid through so kept refilling the reservoir after every 5 pumps or so and started to get a firm peddle back. I bled a full bottle of ATE 200 Blue (*correction found out ATE Blue is no longer allowed by the EPA and actually has a gold hue) through just the 2 front calipers. I know all the air is out as there was none showing through my clear bleeder hose.

Moved onto FINALLY mounting up the Miro 110's. They've been sitting collecting dust for a few weeks now.

Holy shit was it low

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_165652_zpsggfbth2g.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_165652_zpsggfbth2g.jpg.html)

Too low for my taste. It was less than a quarter inch of clearance between tire and fender.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_165710_zpsaj028xny.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_165710_zpsaj028xny.jpg.html)


But damn it does look good. In the end I went w/ 8mm spacers up front w/ the 35et for a final offset of 27.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_165728_zps3uhdocmj.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_165728_zps3uhdocmj.jpg.html)


Raised her up a 1/2". It didn't do much. I think another 1/2" will be in the works. Since the 1/2" didn't do much I decided to take out the middle fender fastener for now. I wanted to get the car out and drive while I still had dry weather to bed in the new brake pads.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_165753_zpscdl8mqnx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_165753_zpscdl8mqnx.jpg.html)



I hooned around my local roads hitting around 60 and bedding the pads in. I am noticing a very light peddle like rollerton stated. Don't know what would be causing it as I'm sure all the air is out. But once the peddle presses about half way down I can feel the Brembo's doing their work. I checked the pads and rotors after the drive. The rotors have a nice bronze sheen to them and can tell the bedding process was successful. I am getting some rough shakes on hard acceleration but attribute that to a much needed 4 wheel alignment.

Next on the agenda will be rear brakes and re-bleeding all 4 corners to hopefully remedy the initial soft peddle. I'm not so sure if the soft peddle is wrong though as I remember when I first got the car it initially felt soft but does bite hard once you press more than half way down. Thoughts anyone?

[bpark1210]

Also installed the facelift RS6 tails from Germany before I left for my trip.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160206_173141_zpsw8ymn8p5.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160206_173141_zpsw8ymn8p5.jpg.html)


4 screws per side and they just pop right out and in.

I did check out the pillar where I dropped the hatch strut nut and couldn't see a way to get to it from the taillight area. Plan B will have to involve removing the D pillar. Which means headliner removal for fixing the couple of rips from the previous owner. Another project another time.

[carmudgeon]

So you didn't have to remove any metal from the upright for the rotor to clear? You can see the "u" shaped raised pad of metal at the bottom of the upright I was referring to in this picture.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_135159_zps2wo95ohr.jpg

I had to grind that down flush to for my JHM rotors to clear.

[4rings2turbos]

Dang longest brake install ever.


Plan B will have to involve removing the D pillar. Which means headliner removal for fixing the couple of rips from the previous owner.

Just a heads-up, all of the outer trim pieces and pillars come off first before the headliner, so you'll be good just removing the D pillars and loosening the connecting C pillar piece where it connects to D section.

[bpark1210]

So you didn't have to remove any metal from the upright for the rotor to clear? You can see the "u" shaped raised pad of metal at the bottom of the upright I was referring to in this picture.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Brake%20Install%20Success%20JHM%20Rotors/IMG_20160220_135159_zps2wo95ohr.jpg

I had to grind that down flush to for my JHM rotors to clear.
Yeah oddly no issues w rubbing on the bottom of the hub spindle. I did have to shave the mounting points on both sides.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[bpark1210]

Dang longest brake install ever.



Just a heads-up, all of the outer trim pieces and pillars come off first before the headliner, so you'll be good just removing the D pillars and loosening the connecting C pillar piece where it connects to D section.
I know what a mess w the ECS kit the first time around. In all w the correct parts I did both sides w a bleed in about 5hrs. Hopefully the rear Apikol bbk kit will be a smooth install as well.

I have to remove my headliner for repairs anyways so will tackle both the strut nut issue at the same time. I'm even thinking of hard wiring in a dash cam/rear cam w the headliner out. Almost got in to two accidents last Mon on my way to work. I'll prob wait till spring to address it since they aren't crucial to running the car.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[bpark1210]

Spent some free time wrapping up the interior and installing the climatronic unit back in. I also got lucky and found NOS of an OEM pop up cup holder from Germany. Took over a month to get it but it was $45 w/ free shipping . . . . . . well worth the wait. What I thought was a plug and play operation into the center trim area isn't so. It looks like I'll have to remove the whole center trim piece to remove a dummy plate from underneath.

Also ran into an issue w/ the rear 19X10 Miro 110's. The et40 provides a very shallow back pad for the wheel which is causing the hub centric ring to hit the center caps. I guess that's what I get when trying to run wheels custom drilled to run on a car it wasn't designed for. So had to fab up my hub centric rings to allow fitment over the center caps. I even considered running OEM Audi caps but they are a hair too small for the Miros and wouldn't fit.


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_130921_zpstjjbrjnt.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_130921_zpstjjbrjnt.jpg.html)


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_130940_zps1u6nxafd.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_130940_zps1u6nxafd.jpg.html)


The shit we do sometimes for our cars is just ridonk

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_131024_zps9v8zcctt.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_131024_zps9v8zcctt.jpg.html)


Used a dremel and drilled out the best I could to allow the center cap to fit.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_134157_zpsbfce9mmi.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_134157_zpsbfce9mmi.jpg.html)


It ain't pretty but it works, plus no one will see it once the wheels are mounted

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_141110_zpszmg5sbvy.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_141110_zpszmg5sbvy.jpg.html)


Test fit w/ a 15mm spacer and golden
https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_141121_zpsbmfzvjfp.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/WheelsTires/IMG_20160223_141121_zpsbmfzvjfp.jpg.html)



Blasted an order off to the guys at Otis Inc in LA to get some custom lugs cut w/ wheels locks to match. Great people to work with and speedy service.
I believe I got 36mm for the fronts (8mm spacer) and 43mm for the rears (15mm spacers)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/WheelsTires/IMG_20160224_200536_zps54qw8qh2.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/WheelsTires/IMG_20160224_200536_zps54qw8qh2.jpg.html)


I had an opportunity to install the rear BBK yesterday but passed. Instead I ordered a rear caliper rebuild kit X2 and G2 black caliper paint kit. Decided it wouldn't look right w/ the shiny new 18z's up front and dirty stock calipers in the back. So I'm doing it right and waiting for supplies to rebuild the calipers and then paint them black to match. Brakes will have to wait a few more days as I've got some crappy weather heading into the next couple of days I get off. I'll hopefully find some time this weekend to mount up the rear wheels. Get my cupra lip on the front bumper and have her road ready.

[bpark1210]

Got the rears mounted [:D]

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/WheelsTires/IMG_20160227_143523_zpsz8b1cbl8.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/WheelsTires/IMG_20160227_143523_zpsz8b1cbl8.jpg.html)
(she needs a wash soon)

The 265/35/19 Michelin PSS really fill in the wheel arches w/ the 19x10 et25 Miro 110's. This was my first set of Michelin's and have to say they've got a bulging rim protector that makes them stretch less than other tires.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/WheelsTires/IMG_20160227_143502_zps7ojram4w.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/WheelsTires/IMG_20160227_143502_zps7ojram4w.jpg.html)


That's besides the point of this build though, tire selection was meant to drive this car for performance and handling not looks. Decided the ride height was too low and spent the remainder of the day raising up all 4 corners to ensure I wouldn't rub. I've got roughly 1/2" wheel gap on all 4 corners and to be honest I'm diggin the meaty tire look w/ a little bit of wheel gap look. I'll post some better pic's once I get the Cupra R lip installed and front bumper back on.

Still waiting on the rear caliper rebuild kits and paint. Rear brakes are next. Body pieces should be shipping out from Germany and I sourced a C7 S6 diffuser the other day from the classifieds for the euro S6 rear bumper. I've got some help on a couple leads from some of you on RS6 skirts and bumpers and want to thank you all for PM'ing back. The project is making slow progress but she's getting road ready and I've been driving her on short errands. Got my insurance back in place as well so might be taking her on my daily commute this week along w/ an alignment.

[bpark1210]

Installed a Seat Cupra R lip today.

I usually don't mess w/ body work but the lip is an easy install and I figure my S6 is so heavily chipped and cracked it wouldn't matter if I screwed up. I used self tapping screws and some longer M5 bolts and washer to get it all sorted. Just line it up, chop the center clips, drill some holes and pretty much done.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_125151_zpsu8qwl24u.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_125151_zpsu8qwl24u.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_122553_zpsf2sr7q89.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_122553_zpsf2sr7q89.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_121650_zpsurfjsvql.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_121650_zpsurfjsvql.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_122122_zpseuloapq3.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_122122_zpseuloapq3.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_112741_zpstziaeqfv.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_112741_zpstziaeqfv.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_114429_zpsl5l7hnrt.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_114429_zpsl5l7hnrt.jpg.html)


I cut some notches into the lip thinking it would help flex it to the curvature of the S6 bumper. Not really sure it did anything and probably not needed.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_121639_zpsdpbmpzvd.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_121639_zpsdpbmpzvd.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_123953_zpsrzxwvmaa.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_123953_zpsrzxwvmaa.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_125123_zpsqymzfuaw.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_125123_zpsqymzfuaw.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_125358_zpsbo6fbmpg.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_125358_zpsbo6fbmpg.jpg.html)


Installed
https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_142209_zpsqoxzsgld.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_142209_zpsqoxzsgld.jpg.html)


Took her for a much needed wash

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_161639_zpsgkctcpvz.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_161639_zpsgkctcpvz.jpg.html)

notice something different?

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_162456_zpse02nv29i.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_162456_zpse02nv29i.jpg.html)

I'm still looking for a RS6 front bumper to match. So if anybody has any leads on a mint condition bumper w/o cracks or damage please PM me. I've got skirts tracked down, thanks to Eurylo for the hook up!

[bpark1210]

Caught the sunset down by my local beach. Pic whoring time.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_165223_zpsudnb8zac.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_165223_zpsudnb8zac.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_165248_zpsdditl2g8.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_165248_zpsdditl2g8.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_165032_zpssbzodusn.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160228_165032_zpssbzodusn.jpg.html)

[SteelyS6]

Really love the work and effort you have put into this car, looking good! A RS6 bumper would be fantastic, I have always wanted one so bad but so hard to find and big bucks for just cosmetics. Although the look just transforms the car.

[bpark1210]

Agree costs for RS6 parts are at a premium but there are only so many parts available, I've made up my mind to track them down now vs. later. I had an opportunity to buy an RS6 Avant bumper from Rory (Korben w/ the RS6 converted S6) but he contacted me a day after I purchased a Euro S6 rear bumper. The cost on the rear was insane so decided to go another route on that. The front though is something that fits perfectly w/ the wide body look and I wouldn't change a thing. So the search begins for an RS6 front bumper.

There's only so much you can do to a NA engine and ultimately go 6 speed swap. Those parts are always going to be available so they will wait.

[rollerton]

That car is lucky it found you...you found it. Whatever.

Awesome.

[bpark1210]

That car is lucky it found you...you found it. Whatever.

Awesome.

Haha thanks rollerton, always appreciated your insight on this platform.

[rollerton]

Haha thanks rollerton, always appreciated your insight on this platform.

Awesome compliment; but you're doing the work. I've rarely gone through a project with the detail you're doing. I wouldn't know shit if it wasn't for people like you.

[Kaane]

Great work, just a bit of paint and the car will be amazing.

[A Stupid Turtle]

It's almost scary to see so little clearance between the rotor/spindle... obvious only temperature would expand the rotor and not that large of a gap but it's like dayummm.

Great work. OCD like me.

[4rings2turbos]

notice something different?

Nice RS grille ;)

[bpark1210]

Awesome compliment; but you're doing the work. I've rarely gone through a project with the detail you're doing. I wouldn't know shit if it wasn't for people like you.

I'm just a driveway cardboard laying home hobbiest. Far from a master tech.


Great work, just a bit of paint and the car will be amazing.

Agree but it's going to wait until my hunt for RS6 parts is done. I'm lucky to know a family friend who owns a body shop that's been in business for over 40 yrs. I actually had a lead on a RS6 bumper but it was heavily cracked and my autobody guy gave me the red light on purchasing it.


It's almost scary to see so little clearance between the rotor/spindle... obvious only temperature would expand the rotor and not that large of a gap but it's like dayummm.

Great work. OCD like me.

It was very very close but didn't see any reason to grind the lower spindle down. I figure as the rotor wears it will free up more space.


Nice RS grille ;)

Bingo!



Thanks for the comments guys.

[carmudgeon]

I'm still curious why you didn't have to grind the upright down for the rotor to clear. I wonder if the 17z (mine) has a different rotor offset than the 18z.

[bpark1210]

I'm still curious why you didn't have to grind the upright down for the rotor to clear. I wonder if the 17z (mine) has a different rotor offset than the 18z.


From what I researched the only difference in the 17z/18z is the size. Same offset on the caliper. My guess would be different rotor offset. I know there is 2-3 mm of play which you could design the rotors and still be in spec for the Brembos to clear.

[bpark1210]

Soooooo my RS6 side skirts and door blades were shipped to my office yesterday. Knowing my S6 hatch strut is still broken decided to take my Passat wagon to work. When I arrived at work I was surprised to see not only how huge the box was for the side skirts but also another big box from Germany. My euro S6 bumper magically showed up on the same day unexpectedly. This is beginning to be an awesome Friday!

I load the boxes up into my Passat and start driving home after work. I don't even get 5 blocks when my steering goes out and gets really heavy on me. I pull over and realize that my engine has died as well. I get out pop the hood thinking ironically my drive belt has snapped again which I posted about earlier in the day today. Bust out a handy L.E.D light I carry in my glove and all the belts looks good. I try to crank the engine over multiple times but nothing. All electronics are good as I replaced the battery no less than a month ago. So I'm figuring the fuel pump has died on me randomly or I have a clogged fuel filter. I know my spark plugs are good and I upgraded to newer style red coil packs not too long ago.

Waited over 2 hrs for a tow truck and towed her home. Nice tow truck driver, he was a mechanic previously and knew his cars. Was even nice enough to load the flat bed off in my driveway and help me tuck the Passat into her bed.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6/IMG_20160304_201151_zpsigwsaphn.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6/IMG_20160304_201151_zpsigwsaphn.jpg.html)


I'm pretty sure the Passat noticed I stuffed her full of C5 RS6/S6 parts and decided to throw a fit. I think she's feeling a little neglected these days.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6/IMG_20160304_201829_zpsfgfqyz1w.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6/IMG_20160304_201829_zpsfgfqyz1w.jpg.html)


Good news is the S6 just got an alignment on Thurs and is good to go. I'll be driving her as my daily until I can get the Passat sorted. This means I'll have to throw some projects on hold on the S6 until my Passat is back up and running as my DD. One car gets up and running the other decides to die, #thestruggleisreal

[carmudgeon]

Having two cars is almost like having a wife and a mistress. If you buy something for one you feel guilty and buy something for the other. No, no baby that supercharger is for someone else. How about a nice set of Brembo's?

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

Having two cars is almost like having a wife and a mistress. If you buy something for one you feel guilty and buy something for the other. No, no baby that supercharger is for someone else. How about a nice set of Brembo's?

LOL.

[bpark1210]

Haha always making light of my misfortunes. Thank you carmudgeon.

[SteelyS6]

My S6 and allroad seem to be always fighting for my attention!

[carmudgeon]

If it makes you feel better I'm currently in the middle of pinch bolt hell. :(

[bpark1210]

If it makes you feel better I'm currently in the middle of pinch bolt hell. :(
My advice lots of liquid wrench and take your time. Follow the steps in my earlier posts and you should be fine.

Let me know if you got any questions.



Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[carmudgeon]

It's fighting me, I've got half of it out and I'll let it marinate overnight in nutbuster. I don't have air tools but I was optimistic since the car hasn't spent any time in the rust belt and the bolt's been out before, but nope.

[bpark1210]

It's fighting me, I've got half of it out and I'll let it marinate overnight in nutbuster. I don't have air tools but I was optimistic since the car hasn't spent any time in the rust belt and the bolt's been out before, but nope.
Did you jack up the spindle to take some tension off the bolt?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[carmudgeon]

Yep. I've got half a mind to go buy a bunch of Play-Doh, build a dam around it and let Alum eat it out.

[mr_dave]

I soaked the pinch bolts in PB Blaster 48hrs and again 24hrs before I changed the upper control arms. I was prepared for the worst but after a few taps they slid right out.

[4rings2turbos]

Of course allroad uprights are steel but I had to replace them my bolts where so fused.

[JTown77]

Yep. I've got half a mind to go buy a bunch of Play-Doh, build a dam around it and let Alum eat it out.

I did this but with plastic wrap and tape. I eventually got the map gas and 2 lb estwing and that worked. But again that was on a steel upright allroad.

[carmudgeon]

Ended up drilling it out. Found the problem afterwards, previous mechanic used anti-seize which ironically did exactly the opposite. The anti-seize had dried into a hard chalk like material which effectively glued the bolt in place. I think on the other side I'm going to use the 'deliberately twist the head off and use the nut to pull the bolt out' method.

[bpark1210]

Glad it worked out for you. Weird that the anti-seize did exactly the opposite of what's designed for. I usually grease the pinch bolt w/ lithium grease as alternative to anti-seize. I was also going to mention if you hadn't tried it to grab a 10mm or adjustable wrench and slide it behind the bolt head and get leverage to hammer it out w/ force. This is where having a impact wrench helps. I used a 10mm wrench putting outward force on the bolt head as the impact gun turned the bolt. You could effectively just hammer some force onto it w/o air tools and alternate spinning it w/ hand tools.

[C5S6]

Ended up drilling it out. Found the problem afterwards, previous mechanic used anti-seize which ironically did exactly the opposite. The anti-seize had dried into a hard chalk like material which effectively glued the bolt in place. I think on the other side I'm going to use the 'deliberately twist the head off and use the nut to pull the bolt out' method.

That was not anti-seize, it was galvanic corrosion - forms when 2 different metals are in contact. Anti-seize will never dry. The bolt-head-chop-n-pull-with-nut method did not work for me. I liberally anti-seized everything going back together and instead used pinch bolts that were yellow zinc coated.

This is what I found when I finally got the UCA's out of the aluminum uprights in my S6 a few years ago. Exactly what you describe - white chalky:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w62/JT-_photos/S6/IMG_20120229_174225.jpg

And the pinch bolts - Had to ultimately drill them out. Major PITA.
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w62/JT-_photos/S6/IMG_20120229_173956.jpg

[bpark1210]

Man I'm really glad I didn't run into these issues you guys are having w/ that pinch bolt.

In other news I ran vagcom on my Passat over the weekend and found the culprit: cam position sensor.

I've got a new Bosch sensor ordered from autohausaz for $50~ and it should be an easy fix. ProjectS6 will be back on track sooner than I thought. I also have found a solution for my hatch strut nut. Should have parts in by Weds to hopefuly tackle it this week. It was a simple solution which I don't know why I didn't think about. I'll post, as I get it worked out.

[carmudgeon]

Mine turned into a science project. Drilling removed most of the bolt but since I've got other projects on the car to work on in the mean time, I'm letting Alum burn the remnants out. I'll post a new thread when its done. Besides it gives me an excuse to drive the mistress. I mean the Miata.

[JTown77]

Since you recently did the bbk upgrade, what is the process for replacing that rotor when it warn? Where do you buy those? Can you just replace the disk rather than the hat and all? I am considering this upgrade but at $750 for replacement rotors I can't do it.

[bpark1210]

I haven't crossed that bridge yet but assume JHM will sell replacement rotor rings for their own designed rotors. If not I'll prob go ask the usual vendors: Adams Rotors, Giro Disc, etc.

[bpark1210]

If you've been following my build you know that a while back I attempted to replace my trunk struts only to end in disaster. The passenger strut nut was unscrewed and tragically fell down the inside of the body panel. Sounded like I was on damn Price is Right playing PLINKO . . . . clunk, clunk, clunk, ding F********CK. I searched around the web and found other people that had this same issue with VW/AUDI vehicles. There was no remedy out there other than trying to dangle some wire down the hole to string up a nut and somehow work it back into place.

It seems VAG addressed this issue throughout later models by actually welding the nut to the body. Since the rear panel is not accessible once a vehicle is put together this only makes sense to have that part welded to the body. For us earlier model platforms however, we're basically f*cked.

So I've had dreams about my trunk being in it's current condition. I golf a lot and having a non-working trunk defeats the purpose of the utility of having a wagon. I know it sounds weird but before my golf trip back in Feb I would have visions of hauling all my buddies down in my car only to be a embarrassed to have the trunk constantly being held open as a two man job to load and unload golf gear and luggage.

So on Sunday I had an epiphany. I was surfing dee interwebs and came across "RIVNUTS". What is this magical rivnut and what does it do? It's a cross between a rivet and a nut. It allows a blind installation of a nut basically. It was the perfect solution to my trunk strut nut dilemma. It basically is a threaded nut body that has a compressible wall to clinch onto whatever surface you are installing the rivnut.

So blast off an order from Amazon for M8 rivnuts and a cheapo install tool.

Here are the parts you'll need:

M8 Rivnut
Rivnut tool
digital calipers
appropriate drill bit, I used 27/64th
m8x1.25 40mm bolt
m8x1.25 nut
various washers
various hand files

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_082708_zpsssqxsqpc.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_082708_zpsssqxsqpc.jpg.html)


First thing I did was measure the OD of the rivnut. I did some research to convert that mm to SAE to find the closest drill bit since no ever seems to carry metric drill bits. Ended up buying a 27/64th drill bit which put it slightly under the rivnut OD you may have a different size depending on your rivnuts. You want the tightest fit possible when working w/ rivnuts. The outer lip needs to have good contact surface to allow a flush installation.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_082755_zpsq9nxgjql.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_082755_zpsq9nxgjql.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_082807_zpsl6zi6s4w.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_082807_zpsl6zi6s4w.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_082834_zpswpsh94qa.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_082834_zpswpsh94qa.jpg.html)


Testing out the rivnut install tool I picked up for $35.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_082915_zpsw6qns8yi.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_082915_zpsw6qns8yi.jpg.html)


Tool compressing the rivnut

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_083024_zpshyayyfdx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_083024_zpshyayyfdx.jpg.html)


You can see the difference after the rivnut compresses onto the surface you are working with.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_083117_zpsqcmorkkg.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_083117_zpsqcmorkkg.jpg.html)


Testing the rivnut to the actual strut bolt

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_083140_zpshbtjlib0.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_083140_zpshbtjlib0.jpg.html)





So the install begins by drilling out the hole w/ the 27/64th drill bit. I found that that the weather stripping got in the way so had to drill at a slight angle. Also taped up the weather stripping to prevent the drill from chewing it up.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_085729_zpszzdb2fb1.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_085729_zpszzdb2fb1.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_085913_zpsecsohehw.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_085913_zpsecsohehw.jpg.html)


Drill out the hole and test fit the rivnut. You may have to use a hand file to de-burr the opening.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_090729_zpsd4euuj2f.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_090729_zpsd4euuj2f.jpg.html)


USE MORE TAPE than 1 layer. I repeat 1 layer is for cocky idiots, a good 4-5 layers of tape will prevent the drill bit from gouging out your weather strip.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_090643_zpsbvmvui9o.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_090643_zpsbvmvui9o.jpg.html)











Next should be the install of the rivnut by clamping the tool into place. Nothing ever goes as planned for me, the angle of the trunk and weather stripping prevented the tool from seating the rivnut flush [facepalm]. I attempted to remove the D pillar to remove the weather stripping, then that lead to the C pillar, then I thought there has to be a better way than ripping the entire interior apart. So had to come up w/ plan B.














Do some research on homemade rivnut install tools and find out you can essentially use a slab of metal as a mounting point and a combination of a bolt, washer, and nut to screw the rivnut by hand to compress it. Trip to the hardware store and I've got a 40mm and 50mm bolt, M8x1.25 nut, a couple washers, and ironically the spanner wrench that came w/ the rivnut install tool.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_120533_zps9vkbw2sl.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_120533_zps9vkbw2sl.jpg.html)

Test out the setup

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_120707_zpsrs8bj9iu.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_120707_zpsrs8bj9iu.jpg.html)

It works!

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_122125_zpszqkpmjjb.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_122125_zpszqkpmjjb.jpg.html)

Installed into the previously drilled hole.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_122652_zps4axd2glt.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_122652_zps4axd2glt.jpg.html)


The one issue I had was after installing the rivnut, unscrewing the M8 bolt it ran into the weather stripping and prevented the removal of the nut. I fiddle w/ it for a while but ultimately got frustrated and busted out the dremel and hack saw to saw off the bolt head.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_131106_zpsmbfi9lrm.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_131106_zpsmbfi9lrm.jpg.html)


Rivnut installed flush

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_131113_zpsukwzfj5m.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_131113_zpsukwzfj5m.jpg.html)

Screwed in the ball joint

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_131241_zpssdjdceug.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_131241_zpssdjdceug.jpg.html)


Attached the strut

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_132040_zps9xegvwvz.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_132040_zps9xegvwvz.jpg.html)


I've finally got a working trunk!

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_132025_zpscmsv9kpx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Trunk%20Strut%20Fix/IMG_20160310_132025_zpscmsv9kpx.jpg.html)



In all I spent $3.09 making the install tool and rivnuts were $10 for 20 pieces.

The unused Rivnut tool was $35 which I could return but I'll have uses for it so it'll stay in my toolbox. The drill bit you may be able to find in your toolbox depending on the rivnut size but I did dish out $10 for an uncommon 27/64th bit.

Hope this helps anybody that encounters a blind nut situation down the road. I kind of nerd'd-out on rivnuts but I can't believe how easy these things are to work with.

[carmudgeon]

Mmm, I love me some home grown fabrication. Glad it worked out.

BTW, we need a good side view of the car with those sweet, sweet wheels.

[rollerton]

+1million props for ingenuity . Seriously awesome repair...respekt![hail]

[8520]

Also known as nutserts. They're nifty.

[bpark1210]

Mmm, I love me some home grown fabrication. Glad it worked out.

BTW, we need a good side view of the car with those sweet, sweet wheels.

I'll get some better pic's up once the weather cooperates. I'm sitting on a euro S6 bumper, 4F S6 rear diffuser, and RS6 skirts/blades. I'm hoping my autobody guy works with me in molding the diffuser to the euro bumper for a one off look. Still searching for that front bumper though.


+1million props for ingenuity . Seriously awesome repair...respekt![hail]

I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier. Almost went w/ your suggestion of welding and tapping threads in until I came across these rivnuts!


Also known as nutserts. They're nifty.

I haven't heard of that before, I'll have to make note next time I'm looking for more.

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

Awesome work. Congrats on a functional trunk!

[SteelyS6]

Nutserts are awesome, used a lot on our Peterbilts at work.

[4rings2turbos]

Hard to find a great picture of it, but there's a guy (shown here barely) that grafted a C7 RS rear valence to his C5 RS 6. Looks so good with the little diffuser-esque fins. You'll make that S6 proud if you pull it off. Also MASSIVE props for the Euro bumpers. I HATE!! how far out the US bumpers stick out on the A6/S6.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w152/vdub_driver/Mobile%20Uploads/1972284_639146772860440_516656002500801983_n_zps0b 3026ad_edit_zpsuyezi6rd.jpg

[bpark1210]

Yup agree the euro bumpers make a HUGE difference. The rear end definitely gets better looking w/ the shortend bumper. That's an interesting picture you posted. I'm debating whether to mold the 4G diffuser as is, which pushes the exhaust cut outs outwards a good 4 inches on each side. That'll essentially require a custom exhaust setup or like the pic chop the diffuser and shorten it to fit within the C5 diffuser area to retain the stock exhaust position. Also would have to figure out a way to transfer the park assist sensors to the new bumper. The rear diffuser on the C5 isn't detachable, it's just part of the bumper which would most likely mean drilling new holes into the euro bumper to transfer the park assist sensors.


http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160305_162525_zpshqwbypbm.jpg (http://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160305_162525_zpshqwbypbm.jpg.html)

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160305_162702_zpsjxcz36al.jpg (http://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160305_162702_zpsjxcz36al.jpg.html)


I have to say though the widened diffuser would look damn sexy, this is the inspiration that started the madness

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/image4_zpsactg6bkr.jpg (http://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/image4_zpsactg6bkr.jpg.html)

If this all works out, and it's a big IF at this point I might rethink the entire suspension/wheel setup. I'm not rushing into anything at this point. I still need to find a front RS6 end so I can send all my body parts in at one time to get painted.

[A Stupid Turtle]

Huge U.S. bumpers for the silly five mile an hour bumpers....

[C5S6]

In all I spent $3.09 making the install tool and rivnuts were $10 for 20 pieces.

The unused Rivnut tool was $35 which I could return but I'll have uses for it so it'll stay in my toolbox. The drill bit you may be able to find in your toolbox depending on the rivnut size but I did dish out $10 for an uncommon 27/64th bit.

Hope this helps anybody that encounters a blind nut situation down the road. I kind of nerd'd-out on rivnuts but I can't believe how easy these things are to work with.

Nice work on the nutsert solution!
For all your hardware needs - http://www.mcmaster.com/ (http://www.mcmaster.com/#jobbers'-drill-bits/=11hsq2j)
Drills are available in nearly every conceivable diameter - fractional, metric, also sized by letter, and number. If you want to never be left wanting for a drill again, buy a quality 115pc set. I've had one for 20 years.

[Eurylo]

<---- Wants to see those side skirts on!!

Nice thread! [o_o]

[bpark1210]

<---- Wants to see those side skirts on!!

Nice thread! [o_o]

Hahah not yet Tighe, still hunting an RS6 front bumper. Thought I found one last week that was in great condition but someone beat me to it. Also my Passat Wag is still inoperable which has put a lot of projects on hold for the S6. I'm hoping to replace an engine speed sensor today on the Passat (already replaced the cam position sensor, hoping this will be it) which will be my daily allowing more time to work on the S6.

I still have a laundry list of maintenance items to take care of:

replace all vacuum hoses
intake linkage arms
trans filter/fluid change
rear brakes
re-bleed all 4 brakes
bank 1 VCG/tensioner seal
bufkin pipe
rear coolant pipe seals

then hopefully order up an exhaust, body work, and 01E swap.

[4rings2turbos]

I don't recall if you said how you initially bled the brakes. But I highly recommend going with a gravity bleed this time around. You'll get great results with it. Also run the ABS pump if you didn't the first time around. I got rock solid feel after taking these steps a couple times.

[Eurylo]

it's that Irish impulsiveness.... Widebody!! I still have a bunch of isht in my garage mad dogging me, yearning to be put on my car.
The cost of my bumper plus repair amounted to the cost of a new one- just got all the grilles, fogs, shocks, beams, etc. with it so it was worth while.
I sent an email to my dude in Germany about your bumper woes, I hope he can find something- I'll let you know. I've been looking too PITA to find- easier to find B5 RS4 Trappings.

Cool, Maintenance > Looks,,, still can't wait to see though!

Good luck with the daily, I hope you get it straight so you can get back to the S6 asap!

What exhaust you after? RS6? Milltek?

I just drove a S6 6MT the other day, so much better!

[bpark1210]

I don't recall if you said how you initially bled the brakes. But I highly recommend going with a gravity bleed this time around. You'll get great results with it. Also run the ABS pump if you didn't the first time around. I got rock solid feel after taking these steps a couple times.
Great advice, I picked up a Power Bleeder and dummy pedal press tool once I looked into the Bentley a little more. I think doing it the old school way introduced air into the rear lines which I have not bled yet.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[bpark1210]

it's that Irish impulsiveness.... Widebody!! I still have a bunch of isht in my garage mad dogging me, yearning to be put on my car.
The cost of my bumper plus repair amounted to the cost of a new one- just got all the grilles, fogs, shocks, beams, etc. with it so it was worth while.
I sent an email to my dude in Germany about your bumper woes, I hope he can find something- I'll let you know. I've been looking too PITA to find- easier to find B5 RS4 Trappings.

Cool, Maintenance > Looks,,, still can't wait to see though!

Good luck with the daily, I hope you get it straight so you can get back to the S6 asap!

What exhaust you after? RS6? Milltek?

I just drove a S6 6MT the other day, so much better!
I have an exhaust in mind, it will come from Germany if I decide to go that route. It'll prob be upwards of 2k which sounds crazy but nothing sounds quite as mean as an HMS Tuning exhaust once you hear it. Also thinking of adding their flap cut out option and wiring it to a "FUNK" button in the dash. Highly recommend watching their videos and turning up the volume if you've never heard of them before.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[4rings2turbos]

HMS makes the most insane sounding exhaust systems. Their C7 RS race exhaust is so much sex.

[bpark1210]

This is probably my favorite . . . . . .



https://youtu.be/zL8EuoSqSZk



Can you believe that's just a V6 from a VWR36 [:D][:D][:D]

[4rings2turbos]

The VR6 has an undeniably amazing V6 note. Those odd, mixed port lengths make it so unique. Even lopping mufflers off any given VR sounds so good. A great place for HMS to work their magic.

Here's my vote of their's:


http://youtu.be/OD2GrPgWnjg

[bpark1210]

Not much to update these days since my Passat refuses to start. I ran VCDS on it initially got a cam position sensor fault, replaced it. Then got an engine speed sensor fault, replaced that last week. Currently I don't have any DTC's on the Passat but it still won't start. Since I've had to daily the S6 due to this she's gotten quite dirty. So decided to pull the trigger on some detailing products from Sonax. I was very impressed w/ the results. I spent about 4 hrs detailing the S6 today including vacuuming, carpet cleaning, dash and plastic trim cleaning, glass cleaning inside/outside, leather seat conditioning, wash & wax, and wheel cleaning. Also attempted to fix my faulty rear defroster which has had 3 of the lower defrost lines of out commission ever since I got the car.







I think I have enough detailing supplies now to open up my own detail garage [:D]
Sonax upholstery & carpet cleaner, leather foaming cleaner & conditioner, dashboard cleaner, glass cleaner, wheel detailer full effect, car wash concentrate, high speed wax, and tire gloss gel. Also picked up a small steam cleaner, smaller accessories for my shop vac to get to the tighter spots, a medium wheel brush, and a Sonax wheel detail brush which worked great in getting between all my spokes, grit guard for 5 gal bucket, wash mits, a foam cannon, and plethora of microfiber towels.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_190016_zps3z4zkurk.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_190016_zps3z4zkurk.jpg.html)



All the products worked great. It feels like a brand new car and smells great as well. There were some nasty coffee of soda stains on the passenger side carpet and the upholstery spray worked wonders. The dash trim spray brought a nice sheen back to all my black plastic trim and dash. I wasn't too impressed w/ the leather foam though, it leaves a sticky feeling to the leather but I guess its the conditioner part of the formula. It did do a great job though of bringing the leather back to life. It's not super shiny like some other cleaners and brings out the dark hues of the black leather.


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_190243_zps3ggyqjze.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_190243_zps3ggyqjze.jpg.html)



Cleaned up all the door sills, jams, and b-pillars. Also cleaned up the trunk sealing jams. A lot of dirt and grime build up back there.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_190231_zpse1rsvnlh.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_190231_zpse1rsvnlh.jpg.html)



Wheel cleaner at work. This stuff is awesome and I highly recommend it after using it. It starts off an orange color and reacts to all the dust and metals from road debris/brake dust activating it to purple. Once it turns purple you can either spray it off or in my case brush it before spraying. Using the Sonax wheel detail brush I was able to get all the grime out, even in the tightest corners. It's a simple looking tool but well worth the $10 or whatever I paid for it. It fits perfectly between all the spokes and makes it much easier than trying to jam your hand in there w/ a sponge.

Before:
https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_180145_zpsq9runggh.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_180145_zpsq9runggh.jpg.html)


After:
https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_180156_zpshwcbfl2h.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_180156_zpshwcbfl2h.jpg.html)



I think she's happy
https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_185953_zpsjsvouxop.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_185953_zpsjsvouxop.jpg.html)


The speed wax was applied after rinsing and I can tell it's really good at repelling water. Super easy to apply for a wax, all you do is spray it, wipe it around w/ a microfiber towel, and dry wipe it.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_190338_zpsshpi8gto.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_190338_zpsshpi8gto.jpg.html)


After detailing was done I wanted to finally get to the defroster on the hatch glass. I had symptoms of 3 lines not heating up. Not a big deal as it didn't effect my view out of the car but still annoying. Researching a rear defroster will usually go out in 1 of 2 ways. Either the defroster lines get broken (wiped off) hindering an electrical current to activate the line or the defroster tab looses a connection. I ended up purchasing the Permatex kit off Amazon which provides a fix for both scenarios. My problem was 3 of the lower lines had been scratched off in a small area. Figured it was an easy fix. Essentialy just clean the area w/ alcohol, tape it off, apply the metallic conductive paint, let dry and peel off the tape.

Well after a couple of coats I pulled the tape off like the instructions stated and it literally just pulled the painted area off right w/ it. So re-applied new tape and started over. I found the paint gets dried into an almost elastic state which causes the painters tape I was using to just peel it off in one layer. Made sure on the next few coats to peel the tape off before the Permatex paint dried off and it seems to be good. I'll have to report back after using it on a foggy morning to see if it really does do the trick.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_184458_zpstuo32ytc.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/S6%20Body/IMG_20160402_184458_zpstuo32ytc.jpg.html)

[vlangs]

I used to use lucas oil speed wax when I wasn't wrapped.

It was super easy to use in between washes and smelled great to boot :)

[bpark1210]

Took the S6 out on her first real road trip this past weekend to Wenatchee which is in central WA. It's about a 150 miles each way over some windy mountain pass roads which made the drive even more better. I've had a coolant leak problem over the past few weeks which only got worse when I took the car up to 120mph the other week. Tracked it down to a micro hair line crack somewhere on the expansion bottle. So after getting back from Wenatchee, (which I did get to meet Rollerton in person, who was kind enough to bullshit around w/ me for a while) I decided I'd had enough of the sizzling hamburgers in my engine compartment and replaced the whole damn thing.

Pic of the inside of the OE expansion tank:


You can see a huge crack going down the pour spout. The other side of it also had another huge crack but I couldn't get the other pic to upload.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/Coolant%20Expansion%20Tank/IMG_20160411_1756231_zpsurxheaqq.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/Coolant%20Expansion%20Tank/IMG_20160411_1756231_zpsurxheaqq.jpg.html)


New tank in, feels good to know that I will no longer have a pesky coolant leak dripping all over my downpipe sounding like I'm grilling burgers in there [:D]

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/Coolant%20Expansion%20Tank/IMG_20160411_1754371_zpsbds7ypxg.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/Coolant%20Expansion%20Tank/IMG_20160411_1754371_zpsbds7ypxg.jpg.html)


I've got some brushed aluminum trim pieces which were just shipped in from the UK. They look fantastic and are in tip top shape from a UK RS6. I gotta thank Tighe aka Eurylo for the inspiration on that one. I'm still waiting on 1 more piece from Germany to complete the driver's side door trim piece to accommodate the power locks (UK piece is RHD and the passenger piece does not have power locks?)

[carmudgeon]

Glad to see I'm not the only one who took off the dumb engine covers.

[bpark1210]

Just been lazy to put them back on. I'm still thinking of the passenger VCG and CCT gasket to be replaced which I thought why bother w/ the covers for now. I do think those covers are huge heat sinks too so they'll stay off for now. What would be nice is if I could get the VC's to a powder coater and re-paint the intake manifold a nice shiny silver.

[linust]

Haven't been in the C5 forum much lately, so just found your thread...nice work!
When you're ready to put in an 01E, LMK, i'll point you to a local (to you) example.

[bpark1210]

Thanks for the comment, I'm def considering the swap but my auto trans is still in great condition without any issues. I just can't justify it right now. I'm still on the hunt for a RS6 front bumper and my luck may have just turned. I've got a client who has family back home in Germany and he's going to check w/ his brother if we can work something out for shipping.

[sumkid]

DUDE! Just read through this thread and you sir have done one hell of a job restoring that S6 and truly surprised you got all that work done during this wet winter we had. KEEP THE GOOD WORK![hail]

[Mr. Rictus]

So what's up with those Apikol rear brake adapters? ;-)

[bpark1210]

So what's up with those Apikol rear brake adapters? ;-)
Good to hear from you Mr. Rictus, I've been slacking big time on the project. Still waiting to get my fuel pump installed on the Passat wagon and been helping my buddy w a lot maintenance issues on his b7 Avant. Once I get my Passat back up as my daily the S6 will get back on track. I've got everything for a rear caliper rebuild, paint, and of course the bigger A8 rotors/Apikol adapters.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[Eurylo]

You got a RS6 Front Bumper lined up?!? You do don't ya?? What else you want from a RS6? What's left?

Still holding that trim too, I wanna see already! What else are you not telling us about? [o_o]

[bpark1210]

You got a RS6 Front Bumper lined up?!? You do don't ya?? What else you want from a RS6? What's left?

Still holding that trim too, I wanna see already! What else are you not telling us about? [o_o]


Shghhhhhhhh, Tighe I don't know how you know that but something may be in the works, [:D]

[Eurylo]

I blew your spot, sorry! Couldn't help it, and wanted to see cuz all I have now is hearsay [o_o]

[4rings2turbos]

RS clone!?!

Your car deserves it.

[rollerton]

Nice!
any chance you might drive leavenworth thingy in a couple weeks? Was thinking of nagging Dre into driving the S6/Rs5/&/S4/9.7 Frank6nstein if it will MAKE IT! If nobody is going I'm driving the Dune Buggy.
If there are a couple C5 type guys around maybe I can push the 210k mile S6 20 miles...

[bpark1210]

I blew your spot, sorry! Couldn't help it, and wanted to see cuz all I have now is hearsay [o_o]
Haha no worries still waiting on Dino to get me pics but yeah sounds like the front end is gonna happen. Thanks for introducing me to him Tighe.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[bpark1210]

RS clone!?!

Your car deserves it.
I thought about buying a salvaged RS6 w side or rear end damage since I couldn't track down a front end but it sounds like I might have something in the works and just keep it NA.


Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[bpark1210]

Nice!
any chance you might drive leavenworth thingy in a couple weeks? Was thinking of nagging Dre into driving the S6/Rs5/&/S4/9.7 Frank6nstein if it will MAKE IT! If nobody is going I'm driving the Dune Buggy.
If there are a couple C5 type guys around maybe I can push the 210k mile S6 20 miles...
Bob that would be a lot of fun if we could get Dre, you, Dale and me rolling out S6's to the event. PM me the details on the date and I'll see if I can make it happen.

I just drove to Cle Elum this morning at 5am to meet my buddy from Wenatchee at Suncadia. Luckily no speeding ticket this time around [emoji592] [emoji100] [emoji100] [emoji100] coming back to Seattle.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[4rings2turbos]

S6/Rs5/&/S4/9.7 Frank6nstein

lol

[bpark1210]

Wow it's been a while since I've updated but finally got around to getting my project back on track. I've had these rear Apikol http://www.apikol.com/index.php/products/braking/brake-brackets/rear-brake-upgrade-310mm-c5-s6-a6-42.htmlbrackets sitting around and finally decided to install them w/ new Brembo 310x22mm rotors (D3 A8 rear rotors). The install was more out of necessity than anything else, my brakes were shot to the point they were grinding on metal. When I bought the car last Nov the PO told me he had already turned the rotors twice since he had the car [facepalm] add in pads w/ zero pad material and all grind when stepped on I stopped driving the S6 for a while. Decided to fix my Passat which in the end was the fuel pump and had my daily driver back on the road to get the work started.


The install was pretty straight forward. I ran into an issue releasing the calipers off the rotors because the pads had worn down so much the caliper was pressed all the way out. Had to use my trusty BAH and bang it off the caliper carriers. Other than that the install of hardware was straight forward. I had all my parts in storage since last winter and was ready w/ new HAWK HPS pads, ECS stainless lines, caliper rebuild kits, Apikol brackets, and Brembo A8 310x22mm rotors and of course new brake fluid. Enough talk on to the pictures:

A look at the worn down rotors and pads

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_152608_zpshol9ziwz.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_152608_zpshol9ziwz.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_152644_zpsb8bzbwcx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_152644_zpsb8bzbwcx.jpg.html)




The rotor was actually chipping away from being turned down one too many times. You can see the chipping around 10 O'clock on the rotor . . . crazy!

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_154919_zpsepxgnqd1.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_154919_zpsepxgnqd1.jpg.html)





The worn down components had already caused rusting and brake material to be embedded into my wheels

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_152630_zps0e6ipuc3.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_152630_zps0e6ipuc3.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_153957_zpsdm1xbn9t.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_153957_zpsdm1xbn9t.jpg.html)


Decided to test out some Chemical Guys Diablo Wheel cleaner while the brakes were serviced


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_154941_zpseb9pp8dp.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_154941_zpseb9pp8dp.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_154950_zpsgwlm1uqt.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_154950_zpsgwlm1uqt.jpg.html)



Back to the rear brakes. After getting the e-brake cable released and caliper carrier pins out I noticed the caliper was stuck. It seemed the caliper piston had extended out too far since there was no pad material left on the pads.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_163604_zps90urf9lx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_163604_zps90urf9lx.jpg.html)


After banging a BAH on it, it eventually freed up some space so I could get 2 flathead screwdrivers to pry the caliper off

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164741_zpsyhlpgwpb.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164741_zpsyhlpgwpb.jpg.html)


Pads were F*CKED

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164836_zps0tc6c5fl.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164836_zps0tc6c5fl.jpg.html)


Notice how skinny the rotor is on the side that had been turned down multiple times

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164843_zpswbnerxyf.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164843_zpswbnerxyf.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164904_zpsy7n43ofq.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164904_zpsy7n43ofq.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164908_zpsxgkagvd3.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164908_zpsxgkagvd3.jpg.html)

[drool]

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164912_zpsqcnltk9g.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_164912_zpsqcnltk9g.jpg.html)


Piston dust shield was toast

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_165100_zpsoljaphem.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_165100_zpsoljaphem.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_165105_zpspdrroh1a.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_165105_zpspdrroh1a.jpg.html)


https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_165728_zpsgpzqekci.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_165728_zpsgpzqekci.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_170124_zpspkm7lldk.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_170124_zpspkm7lldk.jpg.html)


The dust shiled has to be removed to fit the larger A8 rotor. Unlike the front dust shields the rears are held in by 4 hub carrier bolts.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_143257_zps4tti15bk.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_143257_zps4tti15bk.jpg.html)


This meant I had two choices, option 1 - remove the 4 hub bolts which means to put the wheel back on, take the car off jacks, crack the cv axle nut, re-jack the car, loosen the cv axle bolt, then get the hard to reach hub bolts out, then remove dust shields or option 2 - say hello to my little friend BAH



https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_143305_zpsyxcqh84r.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_143305_zpsyxcqh84r.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_143309_zps9txdweja.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_143309_zps9txdweja.jpg.html)


option 2 was the way to go. I'll be able to keep my dust shields on and you can see there is easily enough room to fit the bigger A8 rotor

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_143329_zpsi2ro0jd2.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_143329_zpsi2ro0jd2.jpg.html)


Once the rotor and dust shield were sorted I turned to the calipers. Used compressed air to pop the piston out.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_144448_zpslbjq17lt.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_144448_zpslbjq17lt.jpg.html)


The passenger side needs to be replaced. Since the boot tore it must've got some debris which caused the piston to get marred up.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_144756_zpsu7m9jvqv.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_144756_zpsu7m9jvqv.jpg.html)


Cleaned up the pistons and calipers. I had my buddy Sean helping out and he got the die grinder out and blasted off the caliper carriers. The pistons got rebuilt using Centric Parts rebuild kit # 143.33016

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_144508_zpsh9kx0nik.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_144508_zpsh9kx0nik.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_144502_zpst2yjddvz.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_144502_zpst2yjddvz.jpg.html)


Calipers were cleaned and resealed w/ new rubber washers and dust boots. They will be serviced and go through a full rebuild once my powder coating supplies arrive.

[bpark1210]

Apikol carrier going on

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_161059_zps1zhgdfu7.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_161059_zps1zhgdfu7.jpg.html)

New rotor

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_162131_zpsrjhqwx5o.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_162131_zpsrjhqwx5o.jpg.html)


Better view of the Apikol carrier from the inside

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_162136_zpsbn4maonm.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_162136_zpsbn4maonm.jpg.html)

It's a very tight fit w/ the bigger rotors

My advice for anyone else tackling this upgrade is to make sure you compress the piston all the way down. We kept running into rubbing issues on the passenger side w/ the marred up piston. For some reason it didn't want to compress all the way or should re-phrase it felt like it was compressed all the way but it wasn't. Once assembled we had rubbing issues w/ the pad. Had to disassemble the passenger side to compress the piston until it was flush w/ the caliper. There is no room short this step, with the bigger rotors and new pads the alignment of things is as tight as can be. The Apikol brackets were very well engineered as the tolerance for spacing was spot on.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_162247_zpsgt1vaefe.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_162247_zpsgt1vaefe.jpg.html)

New pads and lines

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_162944_zpsvk1csa2k.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_162944_zpsvk1csa2k.jpg.html)

Final assembly

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_175800_zpswwazwqsb.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_175800_zpswwazwqsb.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_200314_zpsxbfmowsn.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_200314_zpsxbfmowsn.jpg.html)


Fills in the 19's much better and looks more proportionate to the 18z's up front.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_201832_zps1tqlxwhw.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_201832_zps1tqlxwhw.jpg.html)



Stock 269mm vs. upgraded 310mm

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_143230_zps8czycua2.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160724_143230_zps8czycua2.jpg.html)

[bpark1210]

The wheels got a pretty good cleaning and have to say the brake dust doesn't stand a chance to the Diablo Gel however it wasn't strong enough to get the rusted pad material out of the corners. Prefer the Sonax wheel cleaner it's a little easier to use, spray on then power wash off.

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_180347_zpslxyhd8kt.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_180347_zpslxyhd8kt.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_174309_zpsgj0tt3l1.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_174309_zpsgj0tt3l1.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_174217_zpsldlx2vda.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_174217_zpsldlx2vda.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_174225_zpsykxjd6hx.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_174225_zpsykxjd6hx.jpg.html)

https://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h405/bpark1210/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_174159_zps4ungtfs8.jpg (https://s1108.photobucket.com/user/bpark1210/media/ProjectS6%20Brakes/Rear%20Apikol%20BBK%20Install/IMG_20160716_174159_zps4ungtfs8.jpg.html)

[bpark1210]

After everything was pressure bled and put together went to turn the car on and I lost all pedal pressure. I bled per Bently manual, put a dummy pedal presser onto the brake pedal and started pressure bleeding from Front Right, Front Left, Rear Right, and Rear Left. Got a ton of air out of the lines and had a firm pedal once it was all done. Immediately after turning the car on and moving the car the pedal fell to the floor and I barely could grab brakes to stop the car. I decided to park it for the day (that was Sun). I figured at that point after turning the ignition on the ABS module must've kicked on and pumped air in the lines? Also was thinking since the car was jacked up only in the rear maybe I couldn't get all the air out?

Today (Mon) after work I decided to buy 2 more jack stands to keep the car level. I re-bled the brakes using the pressure bleeder but pumping the brakes vs using a dummy pedal to keep the brake pedal at a constant depressed position. I have a firm pedal once again. I also decided to turn the key to the on position to bleed to ensure the ABS Module kicked on during the bleed. I also ran VCDS to get the ABS Module to bleed but ran into some trouble w/ running the test. I'm going to have to tackle it tomorrow since I ran out of daylight.

So gotta run the ABS Module test and steering sensor to re-code everything. Hoping this fixes the dreaded soft pedal issue I've read so much about. If anybody has any advice for me please reply.

[vlangs]

wow! that's some insane attention to detail!

[bpark1210]

I'm happy to report I've got working brakes now. It took 2 full bleeds on the entire system w/ a power bleeder (in total I spent 4 days bleeding the brakes trying various methods but a power bleed in the traditional sequence furthest to closest worked best). Still can't figure out why my ABS module isn't communicating though. No dashlights but VCDS says I have an engine readiness error tied to the ABS not communicating/intermitent connection. Went through the G85 steering angle sensor reset, ABS test mode actiavted and cleared. Brakes seem to be so finicky w/ this platform. I'm still perplexed on why turning the engine over caused all brake pedal pressure to go to the floor?

The car does have improved bit after the soft 1/3 of pedal travel. It's far better w/ the rear bbk upgrade even though it utilizes the same caliper and pad size. I can't give a fair comparison over stock rears since well . .. . . I never had good rear brakes to begin w/ (see how worn pads and rotors were in the pics). The car does seem to brake more evenly than in the past where I could feel a hard bite w/ the huge 18z up front causing a huge bias. Is the upgrade worth it? I say yes considering the cost of pads are the same but the rear rotors aren't that much more expensive. I believe I picked up the Brembo 310x22 rotors for the D3 A8 for $55 a piece or something during Xmas. More surface sweep area = more heat dissipation = better cooling = more performance right?

Apikol carriers = $150
Stainless rear brake Lines = $45
Brembo rotors x 2 = $110
Rear pads ~$70
Caliper rebuild kit x 2 ~$10

All new rear setup for ~$385 factor in replacement parts down the road will only run pads/rotors for roughly sub $200. Not a bad upgrade for us 4.2 guys.

[bpark1210]

So what's up with those Apikol rear brake adapters? ;-)

Well I know you saw it on my Instagram but the Apikol kit does in fact fit. No issues w/ the install other than the dust shield rubbing but can be easily made to fit.

[Mr. Rictus]

Yeah, I've been keeping an eye on your thread so I saw once you posted up about it.

I'll have to do that kit once I need rear brakes again.

[Eurylo]

Bumppppp [o_o]

[finbust02]

Amazing thread. I too have never been able to communicate with the ABS module. No dash lights and the ABS works just cant communicate. I even sent the module out to be rebuilt. After a brake booster replace, fresh pads, and 2 quarts flushed during bleeding I still live with the soft pedal. I need to get a power bleeder.

[bpark1210]

Man oh man where does the time go. Can't believe it's been over a year since updating this thread. I've had some major life changes including putting myself through college at my ripe old age of . . . .. too old (mid thirties). The S6 resto mod is going through a major overhaul. Anybody want to guess what I'm up to?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170919/9860d5a8504e8b8edcdf47e6c57ffdb8.jpg

Car's been on jack stands for 3 months now cause I'm lazy but decided to get my ass in gear. Also had to build out my garage w new work bench, storage shelving, and find a bunch of tools to get this job going. Long journey but I'll update once I get things going back together.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[bpark1210]

I've been slacking on my build thread and the S6 has been sitting for months on jack stands so this will be a pretty big update. I decided to do an entire rear suspension overhaul since I had some tire wear issues in the rear. After winter earlier this year I put my Michelin PSS's back on and was told by the tire shop that I needed new tires. I had put less than 7k on brand new PSS 265/35/19's, with a proper alignment when I installed my coilovers, so you can imagine my confusion and skepticism about the tire shop looking for a quick sale for a $300 tire on each rear corner. The tire shop said it was unusual wear probably due to mechanical reasons since my alignment specs showed I had neg 1.2 camber but somehow wore out the outer tread. When he showed me the actual tread wear I was shocked . . . [=(][facepalm][headbang]

https://i.imgur.com/pMQ4VVz.jpg

Luckily I worked out a deal with the manager since Michelin does technically warranty their tires for tread wear (found out later after doing some research on Michelin's website. They will warranty half the normal mileage for staggered setups) Since I was getting brand new tires for cheap under warranty I wanted to address the wear issues. I diagnosed that since my alignment specs were good that I must have worn out bushing in the rear control arms (13 yr old car = 13 yr old rubber bushings). Did research and located a company called Strongflex in Poland that produced a poly bushing kit. They are the only company I could locate at the time that offered every rear bushing replacement. The pricing wasn't all that bad either. Blasted off an order and waited for almost 2 months, tracking showed the pkg was received by USPS customs in Jamaica, NY within 8 days of leaving Poland but had somehow gotten stuck in customs. Due to USPS's policy I had to wait it out another 30 days before I could file any research claims. Well guess what the tracking never updated and after countless phone calls and online research request no luck. I finally reached out to Strongflex and these guys were really quick to respond to replace my order. They said I had to pay for shipping for the replacement order and suggested I express it so that it could be tracked better. So after 2 months or so of waiting I finally received my bushings.

https://i.imgur.com/isTKciZ.jpg


So the fun began. Tore out the rear suspension

https://i.imgur.com/DlBcSey.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PwAx8XE.jpg

measured for reference to put the UCA back to the correct tension
https://i.imgur.com/JoV4gNG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1MEEXiM.jpg

Everything out but the CV axle
https://i.imgur.com/TtpqAOP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Z2fH6sO.jpg

Evidence of cracking rubber bushing in hub carrier
https://i.imgur.com/c7uItTG.jpg

E-brake cable needs to be pushed through LCA back towards the car
https://i.imgur.com/4ig6Jpa.jpg

Decided at this point seeing all the rust and worn out parts to replace wheel bearings, rear sway with Hotchkis, new hardware including eccentric bolts, Apikol rear diff carrier and diff mount track bushings, and powder coat all the suspension pieces. Point of no return decided to make a weekend bushing replacement job into now an ongoing 6 month overhaul haha. But you know what the rear end of this car is gonna be bolted to the ground with all brand new components with track density 70-75 durometer for all components.


The rear suspension tear down was simple. The hardest part was removing all the rear bushings. All of the rear bushings are pressed in from the factory and usually are not offered even by Audi as replacement parts. Everything I read out there people ended up just buying all new rear upper or lower arms that come pre-pressed w/ new bearings from Audi. I now know why. What a bitch of a job to do. I tried all sorts of methods from using a C-clamp style bearing press, to drilling, cutoff wheels, air hammers, hand saws, and eventually gave in and bought a HF 12 ton shop press on sale for $120. If anyone else wants to tackle this job highly recommend the shop press. It's needed for the wheel bearing removal/install and comes in handy for a number of jobs pressing things.

https://i.imgur.com/tDth4V2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9uQ0vVq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BvdmB7Y.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ctgU7WF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GnfUakw.jpg

After all that manual labor decided to F that. Gave in and bought this:
https://i.imgur.com/qo1VmXE.jpg

Awesome thing about the press is you can reverse press bushing out, especially comes in handy when dealing with some of the control arms that have bushings pressed in with 2 halves. The lower CA bushings were the worst. You have to use a cut off wheel to cut one of the half bushings off, press out the rest, then use a hand saw to cut the bushing sleeve to then press out due to the large awkward shape of the arm.

https://i.imgur.com/zkOwRi1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/w8ETAOP.jpg

Used a pressed out busing to press out the sleeve of the LCA bushing sleeve.
https://i.imgur.com/gMubDD5.jpg

Bushing hell
https://i.imgur.com/mMKaIQn.jpg

[bpark1210]

Before removing the rear hub carrier it's best to use 2X60 mm wheel bolts and screw off the hub. If you do this before removing most of the CA's it give a lot of leverage and using an impact drill helps a lot too.
https://i.imgur.com/DlBcSey.jpg

Once you take the hub off it will release off the wheel bearing but probably leave the inner bearing race on the hub. We'll address this later. From here I removed the entire hub assembly with the wheel bearing still inside. Gives easy access to the wheel bearing bolts.

https://i.imgur.com/vHTDDXj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tmDfGve.jpg

Once the bolts are loose I hammered the hell out of the wheel bearing to pop it loose since I will be replacing it no worries of damaging the bearing.

I used a wheel bearing puller kit from eBay ($35) to pull the inner race off of the the hub.
https://i.imgur.com/h0JzOXX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tgzmfQ7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YxnU3Z8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/i7BlV7U.jpg

Inner race off
https://i.imgur.com/wTFLFfo.jpg

Once the bearing race was removed from the hub and the wheel bearing removed from the hub I found it best to put the hub carrier into a vice, use a chisel to loose each half bushing, and put an air chisel to the loosen bushing ends. They will pop right out.

https://i.imgur.com/LhMPi5M.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/yGFRThH.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZnVq8dV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wqIMaJS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/sNqaZiO.jpg


All rear suspension components laid out ready for the media blaster for sandblasting

https://i.imgur.com/Ppj3mdU.jpg


Look Ma! I'm naked
https://i.imgur.com/2jyWxpy.jpg



Back from sandblasting
https://i.imgur.com/9c8iGq8.jpg

Sandblasting did an incredible job. I used Seattle Powder Coating which charged $2/hr for the blasting service. Took them 3 days and I was ready to pick up the parts. These things are even more awesome looking with the blasted finish.

https://i.imgur.com/MEk8wzB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/myQZRlE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7LIRr8g.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/08Kad18.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HIiHmTw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/J6rSBbO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tvE89J2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OIaA7zr.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NKrHQkD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PQT1wc1.jpg

One thing to note was the inner bushing surfaces were blasted. I should've been more detailed in letting them know not to blast the shiny machined surface but it's my fault for not communicating that to them. The new poly bushings fit with no problem against the roughed up blasted surface but can sand them down later.

[bpark1210]

Prep for powder coating. First thing was to wipe down the parts from the blasting service w/ a rag and de-natured alcohol.

https://i.imgur.com/c06zeCh.jpg

Once wiped down use compressed air to blow off any lint and debris. Once dried out, I out-gassed the parts. Aluminum is porous and although the blasting service looks spotless and clean oils and dirt do get trapped in the cast aluminum parts. Out-gassing involves baking the parts at curing temp for an extended amount of time to burn off any of the residual oils and trapped grease.

Magically from clean to dirty again after out-gassing

https://i.imgur.com/BxB8o6T.jpg

Did that will all the suspension components and used a wire brush and de-natured alcohol for one last cleaning. When powder coating you need the absolute cleanest surface not only for powder adhesion but to avoid curing impurities. Any sign of oils or grease will bubble up the powder as it cures in the oven.
https://i.imgur.com/xtcGq5m.jpg

This was my first attempt at powder coating at home. Decided to quarantine off a section of my garage with 4mil painters plastic.

https://i.imgur.com/RErk7e8.jpg

I had purchased an Eastwood powder coating kit over a year ago to do my brake calipers but decided to put it to use for this project. Highly recommend this site if you want to learn more about powder coating: http://www.powdercoatguide.com/

Taped all the bushing surfaces off with high temp tape or titanium tape
https://i.imgur.com/8qRMeub.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EyRhEBd.jpg

I took my time to prep and clean all the parts since the curing process will show any impurities and be impossible to remove unless I send the parts back out for sandblasting

https://i.imgur.com/0NhN2ko.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/neUMG5W.jpg

So tonight I had an opportunity to apply powder to my parts and bake them up. I was torn with which color but in the end went with what I had. GLOSS WHITE. Interesting color for suspension pieces but I figure it will help me find leaks from CV boots and brake fluids. The white will also help the poly bushing pop out.

https://i.imgur.com/9jSLuhT.jpg


I had a spare oven in the garage from a remodel, used it for the bigger parts
https://i.imgur.com/vPgSMSY.jpg
Used the Eastwood powder coating oven which is the size of a large toaster oven for the smaller parts
https://i.imgur.com/9joIdqi.jpg

Both worked equally well. Follow the directions for the particular powder paint and the results should speak for themselves.

https://i.imgur.com/l9uU5pW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/0tkEqYf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/w1cuSVE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/m4LQvKb.jpg


I had some issues with my powder gun setup and ended up wasting a lot of powder when shooting the parts. Current status of the project is on hold until I can get some more gloss white powder in. In the meantime will start pressing the poly bushings into the parts that are done curing. Stay tuned for more updates over the next few weeks. Hopefully the car will be operational before winter [wrench]

[Mr. Rictus]

So... can I send you my entire rear suspension setup from my S6 so you can overhaul it? [>_<][>_<][>_<]

Seriously, nice work! I've been meaning to do this to my S6 but haven't had the space. I know it needs it.

[Bordom]

Subscribed since I'll be tearing apart my Allroad suspension sometime next year or after winter haha

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[bpark1210]

So... can I send you my entire rear suspension setup from my S6 so you can overhaul it? [>_<][>_<][>_<]

Seriously, nice work! I've been meaning to do this to my S6 but haven't had the space. I know it needs it.
Thanks buddy! Glad to see you still visit the forums. Feeling like everybody I knew is gone from the C5 section. As for your suspension overhaul how bout I just freight you my tools. I'm getting burnt out from this shit haha.



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[bpark1210]

Subscribed since I'll be tearing apart my Allroad suspension sometime next year or after winter haha

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
Hopefully I'll be done by then! Thanks for subscribing.

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[bpark1210]

Powder coating is wrapping up as I type this. The lower/upper CA's, and trailing arms are done in gloss white and the brake dust shields are baking up in wrinkle black. Will post more picks after I get a chance to clean up all this powder paint in my garage.



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171002/a645deb79248d9eadd3f49c0bb31fde1.jpg

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[bpark1210]

Progress . . . . . .


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171007/b63d6ca235d2425c43465e15cbd7cb1e.jpg

The end result looks so clean. Way better than I thought it would. Didn't know how gloss white would look but it makes all the poly bushings stand out and helps dirt and grease show which will help w maintenance down the road. I love it when my vision come through.

More pics fo show

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171007/31947902dd70e9d8cf03596034ac3aa3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171007/b2c18d6c961a27c2670c3993efabe2d1.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171007/e3835d08099fc40de5db10822dc586f0.jpg


Waiting on an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the rear hub wheel bearing carrier/knuckle. Since the wheel bearing gets pressed into a machined surface I didn't send it out for sandblasting. I figured I would clean it w brushes and rags but am going to try and soak it in the ultrasonic cleaner to get all the dirt and grime off when it arrives.

After that press in new wheel bearings and start to assemble.

Also decided to start a side project: powder coat refurb'd rear calipers.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171007/6da3bae5f895ce424dac77bbaf0cc87f.jpg


Never fucken ending project. I miss driving her.

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[Landspd]

Just found this thread, Bravo! Great, quality work so far. I also did the Apikol rear brake upgrade. I think I was the first S6 with them. I had ordered their C5 kit originally and it didn't fit the S6, so it took about 4 months but they finally produced an adapter for it. Put them on in August of '15 and they feel good and look good; definitely fill out a bigger wheel better in the rear.

[bpark1210]

Well she's done and getting an alignment as I type. I'll circle back and update the thread in detail when I get some free time.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171109/c0a9d33bb34d30acf748cfea34ff43b2.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171109/73b5e3a0bcb0abafb081b6361e500328.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171109/b8b8b67b5c6a3d152c996f261623709f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171109/9a541248f90c70596257eb5dfcef5ceb.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171109/af1b3a27d366db4726093497642d389b.jpg

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