2003 Silver Metallic S6 Restoration Thread

[bpark1210]

I wanted to get a thread going tracking my progress at restoring or hopefully getting back to pristine condition on a light silver metallic 2003 Audi S6. Nothing crazy compared to some of the other builds on here (at least not yet). This thread will mainly focus on maintenance BS for the most part then possibly some other ideas I may pursue. I'm going to try and document all the struggles and success' more or less for my own records. So please follow and comment if you would like. This first post is epic long so I do apologize (and it really is my first post, new to AZ but have always visited to check out some build threads). I took a lot of pics just messing around and have compiled everything in the next few posts. This thread wasn't meant as a DIY walkthrough as there are many available resources here and online elsewhere, just a log to record everything to get to the goal of building the dream car.

I purchased an S6 in Oct of '15 w/ 153k on the clock. The previous owner kind of let the car go but he was the 3rd owner and couldn't keep up w/ maintenance and costs. So for me I picked her up for 5k! What a steal. I've had VW's ever since I could drive and know my way around this chassis due to my '04 VW Passat 5sp wagon. The C5 and B5.5 have almost identical chassis components which makes working on it a breeze for me. The car itself runs great but is suffering from a little coolant loss. The PO thought it was the infamous oil cooler pipe but I tracked some leakage to bad seals on the long coolant pipe on the back of the engine. The suspension was clunking on full lock, the headliner was torn in 3 spots (due to the PO moving some shit and tearing it but it's really not that bad), little interior bits here and there were showing age, the OEM wheels were replaced w/ some cheapo knock off faux piece mesh wheels, but overall nothing major. Scanned w/ VagCom and everything was fine. Only DTC was for a faulty driver's and passenger door actuator, headlight level sensor, and some intermittent HVAC actuator. The tranny is strong and isn't showing any signs of sluggishness. So here she is a few days after I picked her up.



I drove her around for a few weeks then decided to tear into it. The PO had no record of the timing belt being replaced so I figured it was a time bomb waiting to happen. I've done the TB on my other cars and bought most of the tools needed. Opted for the ECS Ultimate Kit and attempted a TB job but the weather here got cold, freezing cold. Project went on hold.



She sat like this for over a month through Thanksgiving. Great for insurance! Got a refund back by putting her into comprehensive coverage only.

While waiting for the cold weather to warm up, I decided to work on other things. Replaced a lot of interior pieces. Passenger rear HVAC controls were kicked in by the PO's kids and was replaced. Put in OEM rubber weather mats. Fixed the cowling that was leaking through the pollen filter. Replaced pollen filter. Replaced center console arm rest cover. Bought a new key fob and drilled out the immobilizer chip to transfer to new key, switched in the key blade to new fob. Bought new HVAC control unit as the original buttons were worn down. Tore into the HVAC fan under the glove box due to squeeky fan. Cleaned the fan assembly and re-lubed, smooth as buttah. Replaced all interior and rear license plate bulbs w/ LEDS. Replaced the door actuator. This video came in real handy




Then went a little parts crazy. Compiled a list of everything that needed replacing or fixing. During the TB job attempt noticed both, yes BOTH front inner CV joints destroyed, the outers were fine (that's a first ). CV axles were not OEM so decided to go w/ Autozone remans but the local Autozone rep was a complete jackwad on the phone and sounded like he really hated his job. Well decided to never deal w/ them ever again. Plan B purchased some OP Parts remans. Then had to deal w/ an incompetant parts supplier that shipped 2 axles w/ different inner flange design.

The OEM CV's have a tri-pod inner joint w/ slits in the bolt pattern. I would assume Audi engineers chose this design for a reason. Maybe the slits offer a little bit of give and flex w/ the amount of torque produced by the BBD? Sent a few emails back and forth w/ the parts supplier and they claim the universal style CV joint is an "updated" design and it will be just fine. But then he tells me the passenger CV they sent is the incorrect one, they sent me an allroad axle not S6 . They offering to replace it when I ship it back or to buy another and they'll send a free return label. I opted to just buy another and get the label. I get the replacement passenger CV and notice it has the correct tri-pod design inner shaft w/ the slits in the flange. WTF?
Nice packaging by the way on the replacment .




I'm getting frustrated at this point, I have one universal type inner CV joint and now a tri-pod inner joint. Exchange a few emails and he assures me that either design will fit fine. I do a couple searches around and it seems as long it bolts up and has the correct length it really shouldn't be an issue. I really don't have anything else to tell the parts supplier at this point because it's 29* outside and I'm not going to try and attempt to even touch the car to see if these all fit properly.
Since it's so cold outside I focus on other things to do. Pull the headlights and do a full restoration w/ clear corner mod.



Put in brand new butyl glue to button it up. Installed some new Osram Xenarc D2S bulbs along w/ chrome signals now that it was cleared out. Still needs another polish before I UV coat it w/ some spar urethane.

Before vs. After



Decided I didn't like the tail lights w/ the amber. Got a little present from Deutschland.



OEM C5 4B facelift tails off of an RS6 Avant.

Much better! Those Germans sure do know how to pack a package. These things were wrapped w/ so much bubble wrap it could of survived a hurricane.

By now it was already December and almost Xmas. The weather was getting worse and I was getting bored and started to do more research, more holiday sales, more parts: picked up an ECS BBK w/ 6 pot brembos for a steal (still waiting, expected shipping mid Jan). Bought Apikol rear caliper brackets to run D3 A8 310x22mm rotors on stock pads/calipers. Should be able to get the bigger rotor but only utilize about 80% of the surface for braking. It will be an improvement in terms of heat disapation and cooling. Stock pads which will be upgraded to Hawk HPS along w/ the front BBK should help. I know a lot of guys have had trouble running the rear kits from 034 and JHM but it seems Apikol has developed a 4.2/S6 specific bracket that is plug and play. Time will tell once I install it. I know LazerfaceRictus has reached out to me on my IG to get feedback but I haven't got the chance to install them yet.



By the way D3 A8 310x22mm rear rotors = dirt cheap. Picked up these Brembos from AutohausAZ $120 w/ free shipping . These things are massive

Picked up a set of ST Coils on the cheapo as well for sub $700. I just couldn't let all these deals pass me by! I was really considering going air but because I need my trunk space (road trips, golfing w/ my buddies, HomeDepot runs etc) decided to stick w/ coils. I'm running Bilstein PSS9's on the Passat and love them but couldn't justify the price tag again for the S6.

If I'm going low then well sh*t might as well find new wheels. After a couple days looking at some rebuilt 3 piece wheels I came up on an offer too good to pass up on Miro's. A company in CA was having an Xmas sale buy 3 get the 4th free. I was eyeing the Miro 110's but unfortunately they don't offer them in 19" in a 5X112. I reached to out FM Wheels who do re-drilling and they offered to price match the competitor. Can't tell you how easy it was to work w/ Abe at FM Wheels. He got me hooked up on a re-drill and matched the price for me for sub $900. Decided on Miro 110's 19x8.5 and 19x10, offset's will be dialed in later. Abe posted a teaser on his IG feed of my wheels being completed:



Then they showed up after Xmas!



Very clean work there.



Wiiiiide and concave




While waiting for better weather, decided to fix an AC condenser sensor I broke during the TB job attempt. The clip no longer would stay on since the clip cracked off.

I found an OEM clip on Ebay and it came w/ everything you needed, including connectors, rubber weather gasket, and clip to hold all the wiring in.

Started off by clipping the wires then stripping them. Used the supplied connectors to pinch the wires in.

Then seated them into the switch, making note of where each color goes.

Make sure to clip the connectors in so that they will connect to the pins on the AC condesner side



Snap retaining clip to hold the wiring in and all done.

[a4kamila6]

Im about to take out my headlights and take the lenses off also and I was thinking of painting those chrome inserts black.. you know the ones that come off with the lenses themselves.. and then you can separate the chrome from the lense. Well I guess my question is do you think it would look good? Was also thinking of doing clear corner mod, I mean, might as well.

And besides that, the s6 is a great car. Good motor. You can always find a 6 speed transmission and swap her in down the line if you get tired of the tiptronic.

[bpark1210]

The weather finally let up 2 weeks ago and I started to tackle the suspension while I put the TB job on hold.



Decided to get to the CV Axles fist. Then discovered this:



See the difference?

Don't mind the rust the car's been sitting close to 2 months out in the wet and cold.

WTF!? SAE bolt for the axle? Once I started to pull things off I noticed a couple little things here and there w/ non metric bolts/screws. Total hack mechanic job. I'm thinking oh crap what the hell did I get myself into. Had to run to Harbor Freight to find a friggin SAE socket big enough to get this BS off .
Once I got the outer CV bolts loose I went to get the inner CV triple squares. Hit them w/ my impact gun an nothing . . . . . WTF? Couldn't break them loose. There was grease everywhere caked on from the torn boots. I know the car spent the first 10 or so years of its life in NY. I'm thinking salted roads and rusted bolts. Damn, never experienced anything like this in the PNW. With my Passat everything came loose like butter. Project on hold until a buddy could come help.
After New Year's I had some help and bought some 24" Craftsman extension sockets. This could be my new favorite tool hehe. Took two of us to break loose all the inner CV triple squares. I had to push in to prevent stripping the bolt while my buddy cracked them w/ a 24" breaker. What an ordeal. Stopped for the day. Treated my buddy to go watch the Hateful 8. End of that day.

Couldn't get back to the suspension until a few days ago. Got both my axles out then it was time to get my coils in. Focus: PINCH BOLT. I was lost for words. I know how you east coast guys feel about the pinch bolt now. These were seized beyond belief. Totally rusted or over torqued but just plain f'ing me over. Again never had issues like this w/ a NW car where we don't salt or roads.

Here was my technique to get the pinch bolt out. PB Blaster let it soak. Loosed the nut to sit flush w/ the bolt itself. I could turn the bolt from the head so I knew it was coming loose. Next few minutes focused on hammering the nut side w/ a hammer, soaking in PB Blaster, and slowing wrenching the bolt head loose. Soak in PB Blaster every time the bolt moves. I have air tools so an impact gun was crucial to getting the bolt moving outwards.



The tension on the bolt comes from the knuckle hanging it's weight on it so I put a spare small jack under the wheel bearing and jack'd it up to release a little bit of tension. Keep hammering and soaking w PB Blaster, then hit it w/ my gun back and forth to get the PB Blaster soaked in. Eventually the bolt started to slide but very slowly. Don't be afraid to hammer the crap out of it. Loosen the nut to regain leverage on hammering as the bolt slides towards the head side. Try not to spin the bolt for too long w/ an impact gun because the tension creates heat which can break the head off. Eventually the sucker came free. You can see how much PB Blaster is soaked onto it:



Also make note of how dirty my uprights are. They are black. You'll see in a moment how they should be shiny aluminum.
Pinch bolt out. Now what? Time to get the UCA's out of the knuckle. But wait a minute! I have a rusty east coast demon of a car. So in my attempt to hammer them from the bottom w/ a punch and hammer . . . . nothing. Plan B, head to Oreilly's rent a tie rod seperator and a universal ball joint tool. Hammered the picklefork in to initially free up the ball joint. Then used the universal tool to screw it out.



I had to use a small socket to fit into the upfright but it fit perfectly into the tool. The rear arm was causing some issues for the tool. The front came off in no time w/ this technique. Decided to just pull out my air hammer since the rears were taking too long.

"hammer time"


Came out in 2 seconds. I wasn't planning on reusing the orig UCA's since I have some spare adjustable SPC UCA's from a previous setup on my Passat hence the torn boots on the orig CA's.

Everything out:



Notice the filth:





Next couple of hours spent on cleaning.



This might also be my new favorite tool I picked up. A $10 pressurized spary bottle + Brakekleen = money!



Clean clean clean!



Spray and wipe, went through almost a whole roll of paper towels. So much caked on grease.
Wire brushes and pipe cleaners for the upright CA holes and ABS sensor.



Before: Notice the color of the subframe


After: shiny shiny aluminum


Put new CV's in, regreased the ABS sensors, buttoned it all up and torque'd to spec.





Also picked up a thread chaser set, another new favorite tool. I can clean all my thread holes and bolts. I bought all new nuts and washers for most of the hardware but decided to re-use whatever was not a torque to yield/stretch bolt this time. It does a great job at cleaning away rust and old lock-tite.



New setup for the Suspension.



I noticed during the install that my old SPC CA's had torn boots from rubbing together caused by being so damn low on my Passat. Holding off install until I figure out what to do w/ CA's. Thinking of replacing the SPA's w/ the same or considering some other options.


Started to notice a rough start when cranking and eventually this past weekend had no start conditions. Electronics seemed fine, assumed it was battery related since the car has been sitting for so long. Pull the battery out it's an 2006 so decided to pick up a new battery at Pep Boys. They had a 20% sale on batteries + $20 mail in rebate. Washed out the firewall area w/ a hose and got all the filth out while replacing the battery. And what the hell . . . the battery weights about a million pounds and is a PITA to move around the tight space.



So that's where I'm at. Waiting on new Adj UCA's to finish the suspension, then onto wheel fitment, and then TB Job. I'm shooting for deadline for Feb 13th, I have a road trip planned to go to Bandon Dunes, OR which is a 8 hr drive from Seattle. Hopefully this will wrap up in time. I'm limited to working on weekends and usually one day off during the week so have a solid 7 days to get it done. I'll try to update as much as possible but finishing the car has priorities.

[bpark1210]

Im about to take out my headlights and take the lenses off also and I was thinking of painting those chrome inserts black.. you know the ones that come off with the lenses themselves.. and then you can separate the chrome from the lense. Well I guess my question is do you think it would look good? Was also thinking of doing clear corner mod, I mean, might as well.

And besides that, the s6 is a great car. Good motor. You can always find a 6 speed transmission and swap her in down the line if you get tired of the tiptronic.

I've seen black out lights before. The only thing when going that route you need to find good paint that can resist the heat from bulbs and eventually cracking. The only downside of going black is once you paint the reflective surface you can never get it back. Getting the lenses off for the clear corner mod was surprisingly easy compared to my B5.5 Passat lights. Quick hit of heat gun and the buytl glue starts to give way.

[Hobartian]

Bpark, Your post makes very good reading and provides lot's of information. Great work!

[bpark1210]

Bpark, Your post makes very good reading and provides lot's of information. Great work!

Thanks! I've always enjoyed long build threads so hopefully I will have some nice progression here from a stock car to something unique and finished.

[OGBULLYLOCDAWG]

This actually inspires me to clean some up some suspension stuff lol.

Good call on the facelift eurospec tails, I was just planning on tinting out the amber at some point.. but that was years ago, so I think I'm sticking with the amber now..

Where did you source the pressurized spray bottle for $10?

[R490]

Sub'd!

Great thread, always like seeing these restoration threads.

[mr_dave]

Awesome work! Love to see these cars getting the attention they deserve.

[bpark1210]

This actually inspires me to clean some up some suspension stuff lol.

Good call on the facelift eurospec tails, I was just planning on tinting out the amber at some point.. but that was years ago, so I think I'm sticking with the amber now..

Where did you source the pressurized spray bottle for $10?

Ebay has plenty if you search for "pressurized spray bottle"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-800...QAAOSwo0JWHKuu

[carmudgeon]

Great write up, do you mind posting the part # off the front struts while you have them out? Still on the fence about replacing mine with OEM or aftermarket.

[bpark1210]

Ordered 034 Adj UCA on Sunday night and got them tonight when I got home . . . . that was quick! Decided to get the 034 arms because I've gone through 2 sets of the SPC Adj arms and they get a little difficult to adjust once dirt and grime gets into the adjusting threads. The seller for me was the 034 arms would be rebuildable down the road if it ever needed. The quality of the arms are top notch and are going to be way easier to adjust than the dual threaded SPC/Stern style arms.

Pics:





It's dark outside and also raining so decided to bring the project inside. I swear I'm collecting cardboard like I'm building a friggin hobo village, I'm a cardboard mechanic for life. Laid out all the pieces:



Installed them in less than 5 minutes since I had my suspension apart from the other day. All done and the dog approves:



Next up pull the driver's side out tomorrow and install the rest of the arms. If the rain holds off I'll be tackling the rear springs and be done w/ the suspension and hopefully onto the TB job over the weekend. I have a 4 day weekend but rain is in the forecast for the next week. I'll be busting out more cardboard to work on in the driveway haha. I may have to purchase a foldable tent to get the TB job done w/o getting water into the heads when I pull the VC's off.

[bpark1210]

Great write up, do you mind posting the part # off the front struts while you have them out? Still on the fence about replacing mine with OEM or aftermarket.

I don't have an ETKA file on the S6 but just pulling up on ECS Audi # 4B3413031M

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_S6...ocks/ES371983/

[carmudgeon]

I think you're right, ETKA lists 4B3413031L as the red shock and 4B3413031M as green, although I'm pretty sure that's wrong.

[bpark1210]

I think you're right, ETKA lists 4B3413031L as the red shock and 4B3413031M as green, although I'm pretty sure that's wrong.

Ahhh I see why you need the clarification. Well I wiped down the strut and was surprised to see that it was still an OEM strut. It is in fact 4B3 413 031 M for the red strut. In all honesty I would opt for Bistein or Koni's over OEM shocks if were to spend the money on it.

[mr_dave]

Great write up, do you mind posting the part # off the front struts while you have them out? Still on the fence about replacing mine with OEM or aftermarket.

I just recently changed mine out for Koni FSDs. Here are the OEM SACHS red dampers from the S6:

Front - 4B3 413 031 M


Rear - 4B3 513 031 J

[bpark1210]

I had the day off today so decided to finish up the front suspension. The 034 adj UCA were so easy to adjust and fit in having removable spherical joints.



I did however run into a snag on the passenger side. I spent 15 min trying to force the front joint into the control arm spindle w/ no luck. I couldn't figure out what the hell was going on, it would slide in about half way in the spindle then stop. I didn't want to hammer them in because they're new and so nicely constructed so after I got to thinking I pulled the pinch pin out to look inside the spindle . . . . . .



I must've dented up the aluminum upright during removal of the CA's w/ my air hammer

No worries I wasn't freaking out, if he aluminum was soft enough to get dented up I knew I could smooth it out. So grabbed a nail punch, one of those finishing punches you use on installing floor molding. Hammered it lightly and eventually it brought down the dent. Then grabbed a wire pipe cleaner and smoothed it out. Hit it w/ my air compressor to get all the debris out and wiped it clean.



Test fit the pinch pins from from the UCA's and fit perfect!



Nice thing about the removable pinch pins are that it makes installing them a breeze. Instead of trying to fiddle w/ getting the entire UCA to press fit into the spindle I can just install the pinch pins first and slide the arms over them w/ ease. Love this design and I'm pretty sure my alignment guy will love it too.

Installed new hardware:



and made sure to coat some lithium grease onto them to prevent the nightmare of rusting and ease of removal next time.



Torqued everything down to spec at curb weight position. I went the extra mile w/ the new adj CA's by torquing them to spec at the stock install angle when the entire setup was out of the car then loosening the bolt counting the number of rotations once in the car. I had the suspension at curb weight I re-tightened back the turns to get to torque spec (can't fit a torque wrench on the inner UCA bolts due to the spring and this is the only way to get it tight). This will give me piece of mind the inner bushing on the new UCA's are torque'd down at ride height preventing pre-mature bushing failure. Also torqued the M16 axle bolt, 133ft lbs then +180* once sitting on wheels.














Test fit time!



















Miro 110's 19X8.5 et 35 w/ 10mm spacer. *Edit measured my spacer and they are 15mm Pics show final et at 20** They sure do look small in those wide arches. Might also be because there's no tire mounted.



Close up of the front view. The 10mm correction *15mm* spacer puts them just a hair outside of the wheel arch.



Thinking it may be too much and might bring it down to 7.5mm. I also fitted the wheels w/o a spacer and clearance will be tight on the inside. Might have rubbing issues on the spindle. All things for me to consider when I go w/ tire selection.

Dropped the baby down and was surprised to see the ride height almost perfect. Just had to adjust the passenger side up a 1/4". I'm going conservative for now because the plan is to go on a 8 hr road trip w/ 4 adults, 4 golf bags, and luggage in a couple weeks.

I always love the view of a slammed car w/ the front bumper off



Went for a quick test drive and everything is perfect




Drove the car back, reversed in and started to tackle the rears


I told her Shhhhhhh . . . . . . put your ass up and face down





Things were rolling real quick on the rears. All the bolts and nuts came out real quick. I took out the 2 upper strut mounting plate bolts, lower strut bolt, the outer bolt on the stabilizer bar connected to the axle beam and loosened both lower inner control arm bolts. I was planning to then just drop down the suspension to wiggle out the strut.

I'm completely stuck, I'm lost at this point. I'm looking at my Bentley and that's pretty much all it outlines. I grabbed my spring compressors and spent the next hour trying to compress the spring by hand thinking it would help me get some clearance to pull the strut out. Put in a pry bar to help lower the suspension but there's not much give. It seems the upper spring mount has an extra 1.5" - 2" inches that needs to clear the mounting hole.



I had to stop here due to darkness.

Anybody have any pointers on what to do?

[mr_dave]

Anybody have any pointers on what to do?

I loosened the two bottom inner control arm bolts and then removed the bottom outer control arm eccentric bolt that has the funky shaped washers, which allows the the control arm to swing down. I realize it messes up the alignment but it made it real easy to slide the whole strut assembly out and the first thing I did was get a full alignment anyway. No need for the spring compressors, but nice job getting them in there!

[bpark1210]

I was trying to avoid that bolt but might have to go that route. But your reply makes sense to just drop it, I plan on an alignment anyways. Is the eccentric bolt re-usable or a replace item? I didn't plan ahead to remove this one and would have to hit up the stealership if it needs to be re-used.

[mr_dave]

I reused it. I can't see why it would be need to be replaced since it's loosened, adjusted, and re-tightened for alignments.

[carmudgeon]

I just recently changed mine out for Koni FSDs. Here are the OEM SACHS red dampers from the S6:

Appreciate that. I am no longer on the fence, $288 per strut is nuts.

[bpark1210]

I reused it. I can't see why it would be need to be replaced since it's loosened, adjusted, and re-tightened for alignments.

Very good point. Appreciate the guidance, I'll hopefully have the suspension wrapped up by Sun and move on to the TB on Monday.

Appreciate that. I am no longer on the fence, $288 per strut is nuts.

ECS has Bilstein Sports on sale for dirt cheap, 41% off w/ free shipping. Can't go wrong w/ Bilstein's w/ their LIFETIME warranty, I love my PSS9's on the Passat.

[carmudgeon]

Yeah I'll probably end up with the Bilstein's, I can't justify coilovers . Did you have to use a special socket to get the strut nut off?

[rollerton]

I reused it. I can't see why it would be need to be replaced since it's loosened, adjusted, and re-tightened for alignments.

I did the same thing; if you clean and mark the eccentric positioning you can get it back to where it was before. I'd say on MOST of our cars if it's not exactly where it was before you're odds are that the alignment would be BETTER than before- due to suspension wearing and that junk.
When I did mine I didn't even need a spring compressor for the rear. By the time the nut is backed off almost to the end there's pretty much no tension on the spring.

[bpark1210]

Yeah I'll probably end up with the Bilstein's, I can't justify coilovers . Did you have to use a special socket to get the strut nut off?

I fortunately have air tools and just hit it w/ the impact gun to get it off.

You do however need it for the install. I made one a long time ago on a bench grinder by taking an extra long 19mm socket and grinding a window out of it and also bought one a couple years ago for $30 online. They are essentialy the same thing. I've seen people get the new nylock nut tight using vice grips holding the compression shaft but wouldn't recommend it. Get the tool, it's cheap enough now a days and would give you access to do your own suspension down the road.

[bpark1210]

I did the same thing; if you clean and mark the eccentric positioning you can get it back to where it was before. I'd say on MOST of our cars if it's not exactly where it was before you're odds are that the alignment would be BETTER than before- due to suspension wearing and that junk.
When I did mine I didn't even need a spring compressor for the rear. By the time the nut is backed off almost to the end there's pretty much no tension on the spring.

Good to know, thanks for the input. Sounds like I will be able to make quick work of the suspension this weekend.

[bpark1210]

Update: rear suspension done. 2 steps forward, 1 step back. I'll explain why at the end of this post. The rears were done on Monday thanks to some decent weather. I couldn't get to the TB as planned due to the rain today. I spent the better part of the last 2 days fine tuning the suspension and getting to some minor things to fix.

Started off by removing the eccentric bolt as mr_dave and rollerton stated. Marked the position for reference.



Removal was pretty straight forward since most of the work was done last time. Once the eccentric bolt was taken out, I removed the ABS sensor to the lower control arm. Swung down the LCA and the rear suspension drops out.




Had to run to the store to get a extra long and skinny 17mm socket for the impact gun to get the strut nut off. Once it was off quick switch of bump stop and spring pad and we were done.



Since the rear strut nut is a 17mm I couldn't use the 19mm open window socket I had for the fronts so had to improvise:



17mm socket + locking pliers = money

Cleaned all the hardware and installed new nuts to torque everything up. Only draw back was the ABS sensor screw was rusted beyond repair. I couldn't even get my thread chaser on this guy w/ the amount of rust accumulated.






Rear coilover install done





I put the crappy faux piece wheels the PO had back on to get a sense of ride height. It's looking a little lower than I want for the time being but I'll fine tune it once I get my tire and wheel setup dialed in. Whoever installed these wheels are an idiot. They are double drilled and I'm pretty sure the shop who installed them are using the wrong pitch of threads on the wheel bolts. Every time I screw the bolts in or out they squeal like they are dying. I can not wait to get rid of these POS wheels.





Spent the next few minutes dialing in the massive rear 19X10 Miro 110's. Stock et is 40. It fits but way too close to the suspension for my liking. Test fitted w/ the 15mm spacer to get a sense of where it needs to be:




Not bad


w/ the 15mm spacer it puts me at a final et 25



I'll probably end up getting a smaller spacer around 12mm to get it flush or maybe just stick w/ the 15mm's. Tire selection will determine ultimately.

After dropping her down I noticed the rear headlight level sensor was being flexed due to lack of extension. Raised her up and decided to remove it for the time being.



Removed both just to be safe. I just replaced the front a couple weeks back and didn't want to risk it breaking for the second time.



The plan is to somehow figure out how to shorten the sensor arms so they are still usable w/ lowered suspension. I got some math to calculate how much the car has dropped from stock height then get a percentage of how much I need to cut off the sensor arm. Hopefully my calculations will get me back to w/i spec so the beam is aimed at the correct level. Time will tell, another project for another day. I went to Home Depot to pick up some supplies and have an idea of how I'm going to rig this up.

While all the suspension was wrapped up decided to change out the rear trunk struts. This is where I take one step back. I'm an idiot for not looking up how to remove the struts. I thought I could just look at the new struts and figure it out. BIG MISTAKE. I had a sense that the ball joint inside the strut ends had to be removed so decided to unscrew the ball joint from the body of the car. Next thing I hear is a dropping noise Apparently there is a speed nut inside the pillar that holds the ball joint screwed in. The nut dropped down the pillar to what I'm assuming is the tail light area .




I manage to get the driver's side taken care of but soon realize the passenger side is f*cked . . . . . . .for now. I do a little research and find out that this is just a dumb design by Audi/VW. It seems the later model VAG cars now have the retaining nut welded onto the body. I end up doing some searches and it seems the best way to tackle it is to drop some wire line down the hole to the tail light area and string up into place while temporarily adding jb weld or epoxy to the nut. Then hope everything lines up after drying and tighten back up the ball joint. Time will tell, started to rain and I a was getting tired of holding up the trunk gate which ways about a thousand pounds.

Called it a day working outside in the rain and decided to head to the tire shop. Ordered my Michelin PSS's which were on back order so it will be a week or two before I can mount the Miro's up to the S6. I'll reveal the tire size once I get them mounted. Stayed tuned kids, haha.

Headed to Home Depot after the tire shop to get some supplies for the headlight sensors as previously stated but also grabbed some mineral spirits to finish up my headlight restoration. Stopped by the stealership to order some misc parts:



(When speaking w/ the parts guy he couldn't' find a replacement nut for the hatch strut. He too also said it was a ridiculous design by Audi. He mentioned that the license plate tubs had the same issues w/ a lot of models. They eventually came out w/ some sort of kit to rectify the license plate nuts but he said there is no fix for my trunk strut.)




I didn't like how the headlights turned out the first sanding so I opted to buy some courser sand paper and an actual sanding palm ball. Went from 400 dry to 600 wet to 1000 wet to 1500 wet. Repeated process twice. Rebuffed w/ headlight restore compound. Then finished them up w/ UV coating. Went w/ 50/50 spar urethane and mineral spirits.






Before coating:


After coating:



Truly amazed out how the coating really takes away the hazing affect from sanding. Takes about 4hrs to dry then I'll add another coat or two.


Next up will be the TB job as soon as the weather cooperates. Then I'll have to figure out a fix for the hatch strut.

[rollerton]

Man ...that hatch strut thing sucks! I never tried to unscrew those pivots when replacing struts luckily. Personally..I'd probably just attempt to build up a little weld inside that hole and tap it m(8x1.5 I think it what it is?) so I could screw the pivot back on. Logistically I can see spending HOURS fiddling with keeping a nut that to screw the thing back on.
If the paint heats up a little silver cover up in the trunk lid jamb would probably never be noticed. Or there are a little little insert things meant for stuff like this, but you know how heavy that trunk lid is now.

As for the suspension / headlight sensors..well you can pull the fuse and pretty much never notice the auto level missing. Or some variety of this: VW carb linkage could easily make it right. That's also what you want when your manifold actuators break. The ball-socket joints match the Audi ones- but the 4.2 manifold actuators are so short you have to weld two of the ball/socket ends directly to each other.


Awesome job...love seeing that the S6 is starting to make a respectable come back. Probably has something to do with being a 300+HP wagon that is reliable as hell and cheaper than shit.

[mr_dave]

Doing all of that work outside in the rain is pretty hardcore. Makes me feel like a wuss with my heated garage.

[bpark1210]

Yeah I can see myself cussing up a storm trying to needle the nut back into place. I'll take a crack at it but may have to call a friend who knows how to weld. I like your ideas. As for the carb linkage rods, I saved them to my computer it's actually a great idea. I've seen the linkage arms by gruvenparts which now seems like a smart idea to use for the headlight leveling sensors. http://www.gruvenparts.com/audi-vw-4...-linkage-arms/

[bpark1210]

Doing all of that work outside in the rain is pretty hardcore. Makes me feel like a wuss with my heated garage.

I have a garage but it's currently being used for a lot of storage due to a bath remodel that took place along w/ a new washer dryer. As soon as the weather warms up maybe I'll clean it out one of these days. But for now the cardboard mechanic thing out in the driveway works out haha

[bpark1210]

Just got word my BBK from ECS should ship out today. They said all their Porsche calipers are OEM red and have to be sent to a powder coater when any other color is ordered causing the month long dely for me. I chose to go black to keep it simple. Hopefully I'll have some time to install these with the million other things going on before my Feb 13th deadline. My rear pads and lines are also delayed in this order so I'll be able to upgrade the entire brake system w/ fresh fluid to boot!

[rollerton]

Let us know how the brake bleeding goes. Many people have problems getting decent pedal pressure back on the C5 after brake projects. Simple brake pad swap on mine left me with SOFT pedal 3 years ago, NO amount of bleeding has been able to make it right.

[a4kamila6]

Rollerton, could this issue be associated with the lucas type screw in calipers? I suspect that maybe it has something to do with the threads the piston rides in as we turn it in to get enough clearance to drop the caliper over the new pads. I mean.. What else could prevent your caliper from having a certain pressure? Leaky brake line? You would see that though.


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[bpark1210]

Hmmmm, I've got a soft brake pedal right now. Figured it was due to the worn out brakes. I'll report back after the hardware upgrades and fresh fluid.

[rollerton]

Rollerton, could this issue be associated with the lucas type screw in calipers?
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For me it was just front brake pads. Pedal sucked afterwards. I've bled it several times and can't explain it- no air ever comes out, and it's been almost 3 years. HP2 Front calipers..are screw type? I have braided stainless lines front/ rear also, they were there before and after.

[glennda5id]

For me it was just front brake pads. Pedal sucked afterwards. I've bled it several times and can't explain it- no air ever comes out, and it's been almost 3 years. HP2 Front calipers..are screw type? I have braided stainless lines front/ rear also, they were there before and after.

What type of pads did you use? What was on there before? How did you bleed?

[a4kamila6]

Hmm, yea I was talking about the rear calipers but since you say the front hp2's are causing the soft pedal, id take them apart and start from there.


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[carmudgeon]

I put Porsche 17z calipers on mine and the pedal feels about the same as it did before. Someone had a theory that pushing the pedal too far down while bleeding the brakes might damage the seals in the master cylinder.

Thanks again for posting pictures with all the details. Going to come in handy whenever I finally get around to doing mine.

[bpark1210]

My BBK shipped out today . . . . delayed by another day but on its way. Reading all the posts on soft brake pedals got me researching. I've come to the conclusion that bad seals on the master cylinder are prob the culprit. There doesn't seem to be much out in terms of buying a rebuild kit but I'm still searching. A rebuilt TRW master cylinder will run sub $110, cheap insurance in my opinion. Still researching a bit to find a rebuild kit but seems like a TRW master cylinder is worth paying for instead of rebuilding the unit.

for ref:

http://www.audiforum.ca/audi-s-rs-mo...removal-44042/

http://www.bufkinengineering.com/Bra...0Cylinders.htm