Bang & Olufsen Subwoofer Upgrade B&O

[bermudakid]

Didn't see a thread in the B8 A4 section here , I saw this thread on audiworld and decided to go ahead with it.

It's an awesome upgrade if you have B&O system. My last car had a 12in JL sub with an amp running only at 250 RMS (more than enough for me) and my biggest gripe with this car is the bass just sucks even if you're listening to pop music lol. I was on the fence about installing the amp back in this car and saw someone post this on reddit and figured for under a 100$ why not try it first.

I used a Pionner T-W260D4 Champion Series 10" (http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-W260D4-Champion-Series-subwoofer/dp/B00A02ZU80) for 60$. here's the DIY (http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/)


Pro Tip: Dont be stingy with the sound deadening stuff, I forgot to order some and once I got the sub I didn't want to wait so I went to a local audio shop and ended paying 40$ for what I probably could of got for less than 20$ online. This is probably enough to do spare tire well too for ~ 25 (http://www.amazon.com/GTMAT-Automotive-Audio-Dampening-50mil/dp/B008KNZ2S4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413688614&sr=8-3&keywords=gtmat).


EDIT: fixed the link

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/19/za5ybena.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/19/6u6y5y3y.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/19/my5aze5a.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/19/ajabe2eb.jpg

[Luis_Heineken]

is that a free air sub?

[dennisA4]

is that a free air sub?

Yeah it does seem to be a non-enclosure sub.


OP, how's it sound compared to the stock B&O?
That sub has to be wired in series, correct?

[poweredbyaudi7]

Yeah it does seem to be a non-enclosure sub.


OP, how's it sound compared to the stock B&O?
That sub has to be wired in series, correct?

Yes series....as for the sound, it is MUCH better than the stock sub!

[bermudakid]

Yes series....as for the sound, it is MUCH better than the stock sub!

+1


Yeah it does seem to be a non-enclosure sub.


OP, how's it sound compared to the stock B&O?
That sub has to be wired in series, correct?

Yea its a free air sub, and its wired in series for 8ohms just like the stock sub. (if you can even call that sorry excuse a subwoofer)

It sounds fantastic with the B&O for a 10" open sub. There is no comparison to the original woofer, it wont hit the lowest of low below 20-30hz but really you would need a 12inch enclosed sub for that anyway.
I tested it a lot with the bass cranked all the way up to make sure there were no rattles from the sound deadening on the metal rear deck. But I do some rattle from top trim piece once I put them back in ONLY if I turn the base and volume up. I will order some GTMat online and do what this guy did to fix that. (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/596840-Rattle-proofed-my-woofer-just-in-time-for-summer)


Everyone should do this, especially if you like music enough that you got the B&O but are not going to go all in with a separate enclosed sub with an amp.

[PyroDonkey]

How does it fit into the trunk?

I will most likely upgrade the sub in my car soon. The bass is lacking from my last sound system.

[hanyoung]

Anyone know how to do this for the avant? If it's in the side, I'd imagine it would be even easier?

[bermudakid]

How does it fit into the trunk?

I will most likely upgrade the sub in my car soon. The bass is lacking from my last sound system.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/20/u2ugezun.jpg

Not too bad. You don't notice it standing outside the car with the trunk open until you bend over to put something in the trunk.


Anyone know how to do this for the avant? If it's in the side, I'd imagine it would be even easier?

Not sure any replacement is going to be at least 5-6 inches deep, knowing Audi the space will be tight if it's in the side.

Even if their isn't a space in the stock avant location you can buy this sub and a small 10" sub enclosure and still have it wired to the amp. You would lose maybe ~ 1 cubic foot of trunk space.

Check it and take a pic so we can see :D

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

[youngd]

The rattle your getting may be the 3rd brake light, tends to rattle against the window :P also did your stock sub distort much? my b&o sub sounds awful

[Nastybutler]

I've done this mod too, and it's by far the best bang-for-the-buck mod I've done so far. Very happy with it. If you want to save a little space in your trunk some guys custom make a spacer ring for the top to raise it up an inch or so to keep it closer to the top of the grill. I just used a few layers of Dynamat to give it a little lift, but it still sits pretty far into my trunk.

[ranchos]

+1 I've got the same mod with same speaker. A 1000x improvement over the pretty pathetic B&O sub.

Give it a couple weeks to settle in. I found it a little too punchy right off the bat. The sounds gets deeper and warmer.

[Slick_B8]

What if im running a non bose system? Is it still 8 ohms? And how do i put the sub in series for it to work?

[ranchos]

What if im running a non bose system? Is it still 8 ohms? And how do i put the sub in series for it to work?

No. Stock system is 2ohms (I'm fairly certain) and low wattage. You'd need to take a speaker-level tap into an external amplifier to run a decent sub.

[meatheadmike]

What if im running a non bose system? Is it still 8 ohms? And how do i put the sub in series for it to work?

No. Stock system is 2ohms (I'm fairly certain) and low wattage. You'd need to take a speaker-level tap into an external amplifier to run a decent sub.

The non-B&O "sub" is 2 ohms (I use the word "sub" loosely because I think its actually just the same speaker used as door woofers [facepalm])...

But that Pioneer TS-W260D4 sub has two 4ohm voice coils.... so it can be made to operate at 2 ohms if the coils are wired in parallel. I assume the OP wired the two coils in series to make it 8ohms. So why do you say you need a speaker-level tap into an external amp to run this sub? Because of the wattage?

[meatheadmike]

EDIT: double post

[meatheadmike]

Didn't see a thread in the B8 A4 section here , I saw this thread on audiworld and decided to go ahead with it.

It's an awesome upgrade if you have B&O system. My last car had a 12in JL sub with an amp running only at 250 RMS (more than enough for me) and my biggest gripe with this car is the bass just sucks even if you're listening to pop music lol. I was on the fence about installing the amp back in this car and saw someone post this on reddit and figured for under a 100$ why not try it first.

I used a Pionner T-W260D4 Champion Series 10" (http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-W260D4-Champion-Series-subwoofer/dp/B00A02ZU80) for 60$. here's the DIY (http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/)


Pro Tip: Dont be stingy with the sound deadening stuff, I forgot to order some and once I got the sub I didn't want to wait so I went to a local audio shop and ended paying 40$ for what I probably could of got for less than 20$ online. This is probably enough to do spare tire well too for ~ 25 (http://www.amazon.com/GTMAT-Automotive-Audio-Dampening-50mil/dp/B008KNZ2S4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413688614&sr=8-3&keywords=gtmat).
EDIT: fixed the link





Nice work. Did you have to install an external amp when you installed the sub, or is the factory amp enough to power it?

[bermudakid]

Meatheadmike is saying you would need an amp if you have the stock speaker setup.

If you have B&O it has enough power to run the pioneer

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

[meatheadmike]

Meatheadmike is saying you would need an amp if you have the stock speaker setup.

If you have B&O it has enough power to run the pioneer

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

Since you were able to install that sub without adding an aftermarket amp... I'm wondering if it can be done in the non-B&O speaker setup too.
Does the B&O system even have a different amp than the stock system?

I saw you posted a picture of your B&O factory amp in the B8 aftermarket speaker thread here:


Any of you guys have B&O non NAV? I want to install a simple amp / sub set up with a line out converter but my trunk looks different than everyone elses. There is only one small amp on the inside behind the door but It looks slightly different than those of you that have NAV equipment.

Just looking for a pin out guide on which wires to tap in / where to find them??

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/21/de6e6ave.jpg

I just checked my A4 (non B&O, non-NAV) and this is what I have:

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah264/rockstarecr/793b75b3-b57f-4c71-8cde-db682cb85d96_zps42e8f647.jpg


Mine looks pretty much the same as yours (almost willing to bet it is), so it might work on Non-B&O as well.

Only thing I'm not sure about is how the sub would perform at low volumes when you aren't sending lots of juice through it. The guy in this thread is using a JL 10W1V2-8 and is saying it actually puts out less bass than the stock sub when the volume is turned down, due to the minimum power requirements:

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/

How does your sub sound at low volumes? Does you need to turn it up to a certain volume level before the sub starts putting out any sound?

[ranchos]

The B&O amp has 505 watts total. The stock has, I believe, 180. The stock amp just doesn't have enough juice to push a decent sub. You can try it however. If it totally stinks you've already done most of the hard labor so adding an amp won't be a huge deal.

The JL requires more juice to get moving than the stock sub. Hence it's quieter at low volumes. The Pioneer is a bit more sensitive than the JL, so it makes more noise with less wattage.

[shaunm82]

I wouldn't mind adding a sub to the non b&o system either...let us know how it works out.

[meatheadmike]

I think I'll give this Pioneer sub a shot in my non-B&O system. You're right about the high sensitivity spec on the sub (93db), so it might play nice even without the extra juice that the B&O system has.

Looks like this guy was able to get an Image Dynamics ID10 V3 D4 working on his non-B&O system (without adding an amp either) and that sub's sensitivity (86.5db) is much lower than the Pioneer's:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/468609-My-360-audio-upgrade-%28base-stereo%29

I ordered the Pioneer sub and the GMAT so I'll let you guys know how it goes. For only $82.99 total, I guess its worth a try.

[meatheadmike]

Ok, if anyone is interested, I was able to successfully install the same Pioneer sub as the OP in the non-B&O system yesterday. I wired it in parallel so it would run at 2ohms, which matches the non-B&O factory speaker's impedance so nothing will blow (confirmed by measuring the old speaker with a multi-meter).

Since my car doesn't come with rear seats that fold down, this installation ended up being more of a pain in the ass than it should have. I followed this tutorial to remove the rear seats, so that there would be more room to work, and so I could get the speaker panel off:
http://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b8-platform-discussion-128/%5Btutorial%5D-removing-fixed-rear-seat-audi-a4-b8-2853606/
Not sure if the rear headrests or rear speaker panel can be removed without doing this... but maybe someone can chime in on that.


Either way, I ended up removing the rear seats... getting them out was not a problem at all (took maybe 5 minutes). But getting them back in was not fun. The threads of the 2 bolts which hold the rear seat in place got stripped, so I had to use a tap to fix them. Then the 2 clips which hold the seat cushion in place broke. I was able to get one side to click in by jamming it, but the other won't clip in. The seat is fine, and doesn't move or squeek, but if I yank on that one side from the bottom, it will probably come up. If anyone has the part number or link where I can buy replacements of those damn clips I would really appreciate it. Here's a pic of the clips I'm talking about:

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah264/rockstarecr/rearseat_clips_zpsb79d4eb3.jpg

Anyway as for the subwoofer... in order to get it to in, I made 2 rings out of 1/2" plywood using a jig saw and screwed them together to make a mounting bracket. Then I screwed the sub into the plywood ring and dropped it in (after laying the gmat of course). I used 2 rings since the extra thickness would raise the speaker out of the trunk a bit. Once it was dropped in, I just screwed the 3 factory screws from under the speaker into the plywood ring to mount it in place. Even though the rear shelf is not completely flat, the 3 screws were enough to hold it in place. I stuffed some extra gmat towards the back before dropping the speaker in to help level it.

Heres a pic, sorry about the dirty window and the dark photo (ran out of daylight while doing this):
http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah264/rockstarecr/sub1_zps16d9794a.jpg
I turned the sub this way so that its voice coil connectors would be closest to the factory speaker wire which I put underneath the shelf. The factory wire's Brown/yellow is negative and white/yellow is positive (although not sure how much polarity matters here... didn't test how it sound out of phase). EDIT: Actually after testing, I think it might sound a little better with the polarity wired in reverse since the previous sub was downfacing and this sub is up facing. So it is worth trying. I used 14 gauge wire to wire the sub coils, and butt connectors to crimp the sub's wires to the factory wire... which seems to be 14 or 16 gauge (definitely thicker than the wire used for the speakers in the front).


So the big question... how does it sound? When I first tested it out yesterday I was initially disappointed... the sub was definitely moving but I didn't notice any more bass than with the factory speaker. Eventually I realized the problem... prior to installing this sub, I had already replaced the 3 front dash speakers and 2 front door woofers (with component sets); all of those speakers were much more sensitive and louder than everything else. I adjusted the fader setting to around +4, to put more signal to the back of the car, and then everything sounded MUCH more balanced and full. I also adjusted the EQ a bit (-2 treble, +3 mids, +3 bass). I've only drove the car for about 30 minutes today, but so far the subwoofer seems to add more warmth to the system... which it was very much lacking before. We'll see how it sounds once it breaks in.

Overall I am happy with this install... for $82.99 (including sub & gmat) it was worth the money. Thanks to bermudakid for this find and posting this thread. I still wonder if everything would sound better if I added an amp, as everything probably isn't at its full potential with the factory amp. But I think everything sounds good enough where I won't add one (at least for now)... not sure if it is worth the aggravation at this point. Plus there don't seem to be any step by step amp install threads, not to mention I am kind of afraid that adding an amp may cause electrical gremlins down the line.

EDIT (11/24): Ok I ended up working up the courage to add an amp. The process turned out to be fairly easy and it greatly improved the sound of the sub. So after experiencing both sides, I definitely would recommend adding the amp. See post#44 if for details on how I added the amp:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/620737-Bang-amp-Olufsen-Subwoofer-Upgrade-B-amp-O?p=10282131&viewfull=1#post10282131

[bermudakid]

^ Nice work [az]


Adding an amp wouldn't be hard, nothing really special for the Audi. (maybe easier actually with the battery being right there). I noticed the front speakers being louder in my B6 as well, what it was was the front got powered by the stock amp and the rears ran of the radio or something to that.


The clip you broke you can find out the part online from audi or just go buy it from them if you are close to one. Ive broken them on my b6 more than once. (everytime I pulled it up it broke). But the dealer charged like 10$ for it. [headbang]

[ranchos]

Nice job dude. My last Audi didn't have folding seats - I realized that 2 weeks after I got it. What "luxury" brand doesn't have folding rear seats? My pile of crap Civic had them..... anyhow....

Let us know how it settles in - the sub was a little tight at first but developed a nice warm, deep bass after a couple weeks. For sure adding an amp would be easy. The battery is right there and you've already exposed the sub wiring.

[booost]

Nice Meathead Mike! I am looking to do the same thing for my non B&O and after seeing this write-up, I was going to try it with the stock amp and see how it does. Does the new sub fit OK under the cover so it looks stock from inside the cabin?

[shaunm82]

Nice! Was hoping for something like this~ Looks great!

[meatheadmike]

Thanks guys.

Yea adding an amp doesn't seem too bad I guess. Found this writup which seems decent:
http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/bang-olufsen-b-o-subwoofer-amplifier-add-diy-2822346/
But I think for now, I'm just going to leave it as is with the stock amp.

I also read that reversing the polarity of this sub might be beneficial since the original stock non-B&O "sub" was pointing downward, and the new sub is facing upwards (which means it may be firing the wrong way while wired with the correct polarity). So I may try switching the + and - wires on the sub... should be easy since the sub's wires are now accessible from the trunk without having to take anything apart. Does the stock B&O sub also face downward into the trunk?

BTW, just for reference I stumbled upon the part number for those stupid rear seat clips: 4L0 886 373
...in case anyone else without folding seats trys this and breaks the clips (which apparently break very easily).



Nice Meathead Mike! I am looking to do the same thing for my non B&O and after seeing this write-up, I was going to try it with the stock amp and see how it does. Does the new sub fit OK under the cover so it looks stock from inside the cabin?

Yea it fits underneath the stock speaker trim cover with no issues, so from inside the car it looks stock. From the trunk it does come down more than the stock "sub" since it has more width (like in bermudakids picture). But its not that bad... you don't really notice it unless you bend down to look in the back of the trunk, and it won't really affect trunk space. The plywood mounting ring that I made raised the speaker an extra inch to save some trunk space, but if you are worried about trunk space you might actually be able to make it 1.5" or 2" while still being able to get the factory speaker trim cover to fit on top. Good luck!

[bermudakid]

Yea the stock B&O sub is facing down as well. Switch the polarity and it sounds better.

[TimNGobbles]

Adding an amplifier is pretty easy in this car. I would recommend the Lc2i and use the subwoofer's current wires as my tapping point, this allows you to still control the subwoofer from the MMI interface subwoofer setting. If you have a prefacelit model you can tap into a switched fuse in the back passenger fuse box for both the amp turn on and for the Lc2i turn on, I think anything in the middle row with the orange cover is switched. The battery is in the trunk and audi has been nice enough to supply a nice spot to bolt on the amp wire. For ground just use the ground spot near the factory amplifier.

The biggest issue with mounting a sub and amp on the rearshelf, is that the rearshelf starts to flex anytime something with more than factory power starts to be used.

OP good find on the pioneer, I know in the past, a lot of users were doing a JL sub in this location to replace the factory sub. Also good to see someone try this on the non BO system.

[booost]

Just pulled the trigger on this sub and some sound deadening material. Do you need to create a bracket from MDF or can the sub just mount right in the hole for the stock one (non-B&O)? Thanks guys for pioneering (no pun intended...) this for the rest of us, can't wait to get a little more oomph from the stereo.

[ranchos]

You can mount the sub straight to the stock hole. You'll want to add a few layers of dynamat right around there because it's not a perfect fit. Also you'll need to drill out some new screw holes as the Pioneer doesn't match with the Audi holes. I just drilled new holes in the Pioneer - better screw up a $60 speaker than my German Wundercar

[meatheadmike]

Yea the stock B&O sub is facing down as well. Switch the polarity and it sounds better.

Yea I switched the polarity of the wires. Its kind of hard to tell the difference without being able to switch back and forth while listening to music playing, but I think I do hear a little something more in the thump with the polarity reversed.

[meatheadmike]

Just pulled the trigger on this sub and some sound deadening material. Do you need to create a bracket from MDF or can the sub just mount right in the hole for the stock one (non-B&O)? Thanks guys for pioneering (no pun intended...) this for the rest of us, can't wait to get a little more oomph from the stereo.

Either way should be fine. I made the mounting ring mostly because I was too afraid to drill holes in the car or the sub itself, and I wanted to raise it out of the trunk a little extra. The Sub comes with a paper template that has the circle size on it. I just tac sprayed the template on the wood and then cut with the jig saw, so no measuring or tracing was even needed. But yea, you can get away with not making one.

[ranchos]

Just want to mention to those putting the Pioneer in their stock system.... When I put it in my B&O it wasn't like "Oh, it sounds better now." It was more like "HOLY COW! THIS SOUNDS GREAT!"

Get an amp. Do it.

[b6onboost]

How much room is there to lift the sub with a spacer? 1/2in, 1in, more?

Just wondering because there are some shallow mount subs that if spaced up a little would take up virtually no room in the trunk.


I made the mounting ring mostly because I was too afraid to drill holes in the car or the sub itself, and I wanted to raise it out of the trunk a little extra.

[booost]

Just want to mention to those putting the Pioneer in their stock system.... When I put it in my B&O it wasn't like "Oh, it sounds better now." It was more like "HOLY COW! THIS SOUNDS GREAT!"

Get an amp. Do it.

I'll probably add one once I need moar bass, but at this point $58 and some dynamat should be a huge improvement over the stock sub (I have concert...).

[bermudakid]

How much room is there to lift the sub with a spacer? 1/2in, 1in, more?

Just wondering because there are some shallow mount subs that if spaced up a little would take up virtually no room in the trunk.


Its a little more than 1 inch, I used foam used to seal around doors to build up an edge. You can see it in my first pic.

[meatheadmike]

Just want to mention to those putting the Pioneer in their stock system.... When I put it in my B&O it wasn't like "Oh, it sounds better now." It was more like "HOLY COW! THIS SOUNDS GREAT!"

Get an amp. Do it.

Yea the more I listen to it, the more I realize its shortcomings without at amp. Just trying to figure out if it would be best to get a mono amp for just the sub, or a multi-channel amp to power some of the other speakers as well, since I'd already be going through the trouble of adding an amp.

[meatheadmike]

How much room is there to lift the sub with a spacer? 1/2in, 1in, more?

Just wondering because there are some shallow mount subs that if spaced up a little would take up virtually no room in the trunk.

The ring I made raised it 1" plus the dynamat that I stuffed under it, but you might be able to raise it 2". There's a seatbelt box (which definitely has enough clearance) on the other side of the shelf and was a bit higher than the sub after I dropped it in. You can see it in the picture I posted earlier, to try and get a reference... although the picture is kind of dark.

Also btw the shelf is not flat all the way around. This guy's picture might give you an idea too:


http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/637/img0685by.jpg


http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/468609-My-360-audio-upgrade-%28base-stereo%29

Yea there are some 8" subs that are under 3" thick which might barely show in the trunk at all. But honestly even with this one its not that bad in terms of trunk space. If you are just standing and looking into the trunk you won't even see it unless you bend down.

[booost]

My sub is out for delivery today so I'm going to take a crack at installing it tomorrow. for the non-B&O, is the trunk decklid removal pretty similar to this? http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/ or can you get to it by only removing the grille?

I'm expecting to only need some different torx, screwdrivers, trim removal tools, speaker wire, spade connectors and a crimper. I'm pumped!

[bermudakid]

^ Its the same.

[b6onboost]

Thanks. There are 10" shallow depth subs that are right around 3" deep as well, so with a 1 to 1.5" spacer its only going to hang down maybe 1" more than the OEM sub.

Regardless of what you can see, the deeper the sub the more space you are taking up. In one of the earlier pics in this thread it looks like 6-8" of sub basket is handing down. That takes up quite a bit of space and truly does limit what you can put in your trunk. May not be a big deal to many, but I fully utilize my trunk once a week.


Yea there are some 8" subs that are under 3" thick which might barely show in the trunk at all. But honestly even with this one its not that bad in terms of trunk space. If you are just standing and looking into the trunk you won't even see it unless you bend down.

[booost]

Installed mine today, I'm pretty happy with it so far. What are you guys doing for sound settings? It seems 'bass' mainly controls the sub.


Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

[meatheadmike]

I was tired of wondering, so I ended up adding an amp to that Pioneer sub in my nob-B&O system yesterday... and yes the amp does make the sub sound many times better. Definitely worth it, and adding the amp wasn't difficult at all (much easier than adding the sub actually).

In case anyone is interested here's the steps for my install:

My main goals in this install were to (1) not have to cut any factory wires from the harness and (2) not have to drill any holes or make modifications to the car. I ended up going with a Sony Xplōd XM-1S which I got off of ebay for $109. I saw a guy on AudiWorld use this amp and chose it myself because it:

(1) accepts speaker level inputs,
(2) automatically turns itself on when it detects signal from the speaker level inputs (no need to tap into remote wire power)
(3) is small enough to mount on the compartment door where the factory amp is (8-13/16"W x 1-3/4"H x 8-13/16"D).

This amp is discontinued and kind of hard to find, but any other amp that has these 3 features should do the trick.

Before starting you will need power cables, connectors, and an inline fuse, to connect your amp to the car battery. I ended up getting a 4 gauge amp kit from amazon for $20.

The battery for the car is in the rear (which makes the install easy), so you have to lift the trunk carpet, remove the spare tire, tools, and the battery cover. Once you have access to the battery the first thing you should do is disconnect the negative battery cable (to avoid shorting anything out... or being electrocuted ).

You will need to remove the grey plastic piece at the end of the trunk by the bumper in order to be able to run the power line from the battery into the car amp's compartment. It pops off by yanking on it firmly:

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah264/rockstarecr/powerrun_zpsfd5f6507.jpg

The battery's positive terminal has a flap that lifts up in order to access it. There seem to be several points all connecting to the main terminal. One of the points at the top has a nut that can be unscrewed so I just put my connector underneath there and screwed it back. (Again make sure you disconnect the negative terminal before doing this)

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah264/rockstarecr/batteryconnection_zps7df17c41.jpg


After that you can splice the inline fuse into the power cable and attach the power cable to the amp. I attached the fuse to the end closest to the amp so that it is easily accessible from the side compartment. Then I mounted the amp to the door of the side compartment using double sided mounting tape. The comportment has a nice ground screw by the wheel well which is what I used to connect black ground cable from the amp

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah264/rockstarecr/ground_zpse36d6b49.jpg

Since I didn't want to cut any of the factory wires from the harness coming out of the factory amp... I disconnected the factory speaker wire which was connected at the subwoofer's coils in the trunk and crimped additional speaker wire to it so that it was long enough to run back into the amp compartment to the amp's speaker level input. Then I ran another 14 gauge speaker wire from the amp's output back to the subwoofer. There are small slits in the trunk's panel which will allow you to run the speaker wire through:

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah264/rockstarecr/wirerun_zps64ae8a50.jpg

As you can see from the picture, I wrapped the speaker wires in friction tape to help hide/protect them and used some velcro strips to keep them in place.

Here's a picture of the amp connections. the blue butt connectors connect to the amp's input wires. The wires with the yellow tape mark are the outputs. The grey wire is just an extra input on the amp which can be wired to another sub, but not in use for me:

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah264/rockstarecr/ampconnections_zpsbbc45aaa.jpg

Here is what the wires look like on the other end. Once again the blue butt connecters are connecting the original factory wires of the sub to the new amp's inputs, and the speaker wires with the yellow tape are coming from the amp's output to the subwoofer (wired in parallel for 2 ohms).

http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah264/rockstarecr/speakerwire_zpsc4b32614.jpg


Once everything is run, you can reconnect the negative battery terminal and put everything back. This is how it sits:
http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah264/rockstarecr/amp_zps4c78a5b7.jpg

There might be better ways of doing this, but I think this is probably the easiest way to add an amp. Its definitely worth it for people that want to add a sub to the non-B&O system. The amp really allows the sub to operate at its full potential. Now I can really hear the thump in the kick drums and warmth in the low end of music. Also I noticed, music sounds much better at lower volumes also since I can still hear the sub even when the music is turned down low. This upgrade might even be something to consider for the guys with B&O, although not sure what the rate of return would be since the B&O amp might already have half way decent wattage output.

[booost]

Mike, I wish you hadn't posted this because now I'm going to have to order an amp and do the same thing! Any issues with rattles you didn't see before adding the amp?


Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

[ranchos]

Great write up on the amp!

[bermudakid]

I might do an amp, I listen at low volumes and an amp would def help.

I need to find a small one like that sony that doesnt need an amp turn on wired in.

[booost]

I'm looking for a suitable one but I think I'd prefer to mount mine under the trunk deck next to the sub instead of that little cubby where the stock amp is. I'm pretty sure there is a fuse panel in the trunk that has ignition-switched fuses you could tap into for the remote wire without too much trouble. I'll let you guys know what I decide to go with and how it sounds [wrench].

Side note, what are you guys doing for sound settings? I'm going with this so far, I have the bass cranked up so I can hear the sub but I'm a bit worried about blowing the door speakers:

http://i.imgur.com/Zoe6Zht.jpg

[meatheadmike]

Mike, I wish you hadn't posted this because now I'm going to have to order an amp and do the same thing! Any issues with rattles you didn't see before adding the amp?


Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

I know, I'm sorry I couldn't resist!

There's no rattles whatsoever, even when I tried cranking it really loud. When I installed the sub I coated the whole shelf with the sound deadening mat (which you probably did to), and that seems to be enough to prevent any rattling.

[meatheadmike]

I'm looking for a suitable one but I think I'd prefer to mount mine under the trunk deck next to the sub instead of that little cubby where the stock amp is. I'm pretty sure there is a fuse panel in the trunk that has ignition-switched fuses you could tap into for the remote wire without too much trouble. I'll let you guys know what I decide to go with and how it sounds [wrench].

Yea I was originally thinking of doing that. Based on pictures I've seen, there are fuses and stuff on the right side, but you'll have to take apart the trunk panels in order to access them. This may give you an idea of what's there on the right side:
http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Project_AccessoryPlug.html

I ended up going with the side compartment on the left mostly because it required the least amount of work. Also I liked the idea of grounding to the same spot where the factory amp seems to be grounded (to avoid a possible ground loop), and I didn't want to drill holes in the shelf to mount the amp or install a ground screw. Although those things shouldn't be a big deal, since I've seen a bunch of other guys on the forums do it that way.




Side note, what are you guys doing for sound settings? I'm going with this so far, I have the bass cranked up so I can hear the sub but I'm a bit worried about blowing the door speakers:


Try turning down the mids and treble, and turning up the overall volume a bit rather than cranking the bass.

[STA4]

I'm considering this upgrade, but I don't like how much the OP's sub enters into the trunk. I'm thinking about using this shallow mount sub: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001588ITQ

Is the sound deadening material a must?

[typ44q]

You will be loosing some efficiency with that sub over the pioneer 90 vs 93 dB but the shallow depth will be nice.

I did the sound deadening on my back deck, 2-3 layers of it but I am not sure how much of a difference it made. There are a lot of lightening holes in the deck that increase stiffness but adding deadening should help some. I looked at it as a very easy and cheap thing to do while you have everything apart.

[ranchos]

You will be loosing some efficiency with that sub over the pioneer 90 vs 93 dB but the shallow depth will be nice.

I did the sound deadening on my back deck, 2-3 layers of it but I am not sure how much of a difference it made. There are a lot of lightening holes in the deck that increase stiffness but adding deadening should help some. I looked at it as a very easy and cheap thing to do while you have everything apart.

The rear window seems to shake less after upgrading the subwoofer and putting dynamat down the entire rear deck. Or was the bass shaking the roof and the rear view? Either way - I've got more bass, and less shaking in my rear view.

[kwbdc]

Make sure to deaden the 3rd brake light. That's where all my rattling came from. After that no more rattles.

[bermudakid]

I'm considering this upgrade, but I don't like how much the OP's sub enters into the trunk. I'm thinking about using this shallow mount sub: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001588ITQ

Is the sound deadening material a must?

Yea the sound deadening is a must unless you like the rattle sound.
Also the B&O is 8ohms


Mine has a little rattle with very low bass, I need to get some more material and go over it.


Make sure to deaden the 3rd brake light. That's where all my rattling came from. After that no more rattles.


I completely missled the 3rd brake light too :(

[jimrobbington]

I'll be doing this mod soon, all the parts have arrived today. The actual woofer the OP used is no longer available, a newer revision is in its place now. Used to be a 260D4, now it's 261D4.

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/20150603_161401_zps6ucy4ttp.jpg (http://s366.photobucket.com/user/jimrobbington/media/20150603_161401_zps6ucy4ttp.jpg.html)

Ordered a spacer and GTMAT kit as well. It all would have been under $100 if I could have found the speaker with free shipping.

[einreb92]

Sta, did you end up going with the shallow speaker, and if so, how do you like the sound.

[STA4]

Sta, did you end up going with the shallow speaker, and if so, how do you like the sound.

No, decided to stay stock for now.

[bermudakid]

I'll be doing this mod soon, all the parts have arrived today. The actual woofer the OP used is no longer available, a newer revision is in its place now. Used to be a 260D4, now it's 261D4.

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/20150603_161401_zps6ucy4ttp.jpg (http://s366.photobucket.com/user/jimrobbington/media/20150603_161401_zps6ucy4ttp.jpg.html)

Ordered a spacer and GTMAT kit as well. It all would have been under $100 if I could have found the speaker with free shipping.
Nice! Take pics.

I still haven't got around to installing some more sound deadening [emoji26]

[jimrobbington]

Nice! Take pics.

I still haven't got around to installing some more sound deadening [emoji26]
Did i never post back here? Lol.

So basically, install was cake. Not really worth taking pictures.

However, word of wisdom to others, do not go with a solid spacer like i did. It works, but there's a couple things here.

The area around the subwoofer not round. The surface of the deck is not flat. By no means do i have any sort of seal between the subwoofer and the deck lid. I also had to cut an edge of the spacer ring flat to get it to sit deep enough in the hole. There's also no way in hell to fit a drill between the back glass and the dash, so the best method i could come up with was to screw the subwoofer to the ring before installing it, then installing it and using self tapping screws to secure the ring to the deck from underneath. Not the most elegant install by any means. For others, i would recommend using a foam spacer of some sort, or maybe just filling the gaps with sound deadening material layers.

Also, had a pretty bad rattle that i prpcrastinated about for a while. I didn't put much sounds deadening down, wasn't really in the mood lol. But this rattle i could tell want coming from the metal. I investigated today and found the center locking tab on the front of the drivers side speaker grille was actually being struck/rubbed by the rubber surround on the subwoofer when in motion with some volume.

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/20150708_173556_zps7smev95d.jpg (http://s366.photobucket.com/user/jimrobbington/media/20150708_173556_zps7smev95d.jpg.html)

So yet another bad thing about the spacer. I only went with .75" thick, the speaker doesn't seem to be hitting anything except the tooth that sticks out longer than anything else. So i removed the grille, cut the center tab flush with the rest and reinstalled.

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/20150708_173507_zpsx3fyat3f.jpg (http://s366.photobucket.com/user/jimrobbington/media/20150708_173507_zpsx3fyat3f.jpg.html)

Seems to have eliminated rattle under garage testing. But, if i add an amp, and the subwoofer travel increases, i may have to carve some more off the grill and possibly the deck lid. Or i could remove spacer ring and reinstall differently.

As for sound, keep in mind, I've had at least one 12" amplified woofer in every car I've ever owned for the last 20 years of my life. I did mature a little bit from double bandpass boxes to a single sealed enclosure. I listen to mostly techno and hip hop, specifically becuz bass.

So, my thoughts on this mod, on stock amplifier. It should be plenty for any normal human being who doesn't NEED bass in their life. It's actually pretty darn good. I've never heard any other standard oem stereo system that compares. It's good enough that i have procrastinated on adding an amp, but not good enough that i won't add an amp. Lol.

I still have a good old 150 watt mono alpine amp (alpine has always been the best amp imo) in my garage. The install looks freaking easy as shit. I just need to order a fuse block and a speaker level input harness for the amp. Or a line out converter, whichever is cheaper/easier. I'll do it eventually and post back with my results.

[dejangcool]

just finished installing the pioneer ts-261d4, heres my story.

When i first bought the car used it came with the b&o system which i really liked and was way better than any oem system ive ever had, the only thing that bugged me about the system was the parcel shelf rattle because of the subwoofer, i then set out to eliminate this rattle by putting dynamat, foam tape, foam padding and in the end i managed to elimate most of the rattles, the only time the parcel shelf would rattle is when i would have the bass to the mass and the volume really loud, im guessing the stock b&o subwoofer distorts and caused everything to rattle, i then came across alot of people upgrading the sub so i thought why not, i ordered the ts-261d4 since the 260 has been updated in some ways, cost me total 130$ aud to ship from us . Once it arrived i set out to replace it.
The hardest part for me was drilling the holes in the parcel shelf as you all know the pioneer holes dont match with the stock ones, what i did was mark the holes on the top of the parcel shelf then drill undernear since i didnt have a right angle drill and the drill cant fit on the top since the glass is very angled, this took me a fair while to do but i managed to secure 4/6 holes which was plenty for me. The other issue i had was the seal of the pioneer sub, i didnt have any spacer or anything so i just used the foam padding that came with the subwoofer and used a bit of dynamat i had left over, its not the best seal in the world but it looks ok to me, what are bad things that can come out of a bad seal? Since i have already dynamated the top i thought i should do the bottom of the parcel shelf as the pioneer sub is going to flex the metal a whole lot more, anyway here is the finished product:

http://i.imgur.com/Qtk3uEq.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SNUCIVm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/dy3Yoh2.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GZxAxM0.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bOiF8Fu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9xGGLXY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/jQAXPsm.jpg

also to jim, my rear deck lid just clears the sub as my seal isnt as high as yours and i do not get any rattles from it

Now as for the results. For 130$ aud this upgrade is definitely worth it, i could feel the bass get tighter and clearer and deeper straight away, another thing is at high volumes the stock sub would distort and just shake the whole parcel shelf but the pioneer doesnt at all, people seem to ask if they should add a amp, im happy for now but down the road i might do it as all the work is in the boot. Any questions just ask

[amz]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/19/my5aze5a.jpg

I had a hard time tracking down a rattle which was driving me nuts in the winter or when I had the woofer turned up. I had applied sound deadening similar to OP, but that didn't help. Eventually I opened everything back up and watched what was happening, where the rattle was coming from, and eventually found it. In the above image you can see there is an overlap of some material between the back window and the metal of the parcel shelf. If you don't want a maddening rattle, make sure you apply sound deadening material onto the parcel shelf underneath the black material. I also did on top of the black material because I had so much sound deadening left over. That finally killed the maddening rattle once and for all. I used GTMat 50mil, but if I had to do it again (which I will for the S4), I would use GTMat 80mil.

[jimrobbington]

I'm getting closer to actually adding an amp. But i have a question. I have a mono output amp that has dual channel inputs.

Since i only have a mono source in the first place, do i

A. Connect mono source to both left/right channel inputs
B. Only connect one channel?
C. Connect it in a weird way like neg lead to R channel, pos lead to L channel, bridge the other inputs or something.

[bermudakid]

You will just bridge the amp, use the negative from one ch and the positive from the other.

[shonseb]

Thanks everyone for the write ups, will be attempting this in the next couple of days using the same sub as @dejangcool. Will be doing this also to reduce drone based on this thread:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/401021-Cheap-Exhaust-Drone-Loudness-Fix?highlight=drone

Even though I have a valved exhaust and there is very little drone, my other half gets annoyed by it. When that happens, she begins to annoy me. So drone fix. I figured if I was going to do that then might as well replace the sub also and I'll probably add an amp later.

[Shaner777]

I have the non BO system so if I buy the pioneer sub and this kicker amp (linked below), will that work? The second link is the installation kit. Is that all I need to install these? I'm a mechanic not an electrician so this is all new to me but looks easy to change. Below is what I think would work.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cx-series-cx600-1-1200w-class-d-mono-amplifier-with-adjustable-kickeq-bass-boost-black/7739051.p?id=1218859511615&skuId=7739051

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/pac-soundquest-4-gauge-amplifier-wiring-kit-multicolor/7001747.p?id=1218820829580&skuId=7001747&productCategoryId=pcmcat165900050025

[jimrobbington]

So just a quick update for anyone thinking of adding an amp to an aftermarket sub in the stock location. Don't do it. Lol. Once you actually get that sub moving, there is no way you can keep that rear shelf from making those terrible sounds. I had to turn everything on the amp completely down, and still, does not sound very good. I'll be hooking up a boxed sub instead.

[poweredbyaudi7]

Mine is fine with an added amp...you can go to walmart and buy a memory foam mattress pad...cut it up and line the deck with it under the cover. Works like a charm if you pack it in there tight...

[Shimmy]

Just bought the dynamat and pioneer woofer tonight. I'm not an audiophile by any means, but BO sound was a requirement during my search. Can't wait to install this and give it a try.

Thanks OP for the links!

[bermudakid]

Just bought the dynamat and pioneer woofer tonight. I'm not an audiophile by any means, but BO sound was a requirement during my search. Can't wait to install this and give it a try.

Thanks OP for the links!

NP! I completely forgot I did this I never got around to adding its own amp; something to add to the list now [wrench]

[Shimmy]

Doing the install now... need to figure out how to cleanly mark and drill the new woofer mount holes since they don't line up with the BO holes. I don't own a right angle drill.

[majestictorment]

Doing the install now... need to figure out how to cleanly mark and drill the new woofer mount holes since they don't line up with the BO holes. I don't own a right angle drill.

Finally have that excuse to buy that right angle drill! I'll be doing the sub upgrade this weekend too. I'll try to post some pics with the rattles I find.

[Shimmy]

has anyone bottom mounted their 10"

[poweredbyaudi7]

has anyone bottom mounted their 10"

Why would you? The benifit of top mounting is saving space in the trunk.

[bermudakid]

has anyone bottom mounted their 10"

Everyone with an Avant, iv'e seen pics in the audio thread.

[majestictorment]

Had a buddy of mine help me with the upgrade this past Saturday. Used a Polk Audio 10". Rated Super High on Crutchfield and super cheap on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016GT6OI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/majestictorment/IMG_0729_zps3uczr8rc.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/majestictorment/media/IMG_0729_zps3uczr8rc.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/majestictorment/IMG_0731_zpslmw2qiqs.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/majestictorment/media/IMG_0731_zpslmw2qiqs.jpg.html)

I'm not quite satisfied. It's an upgrade, sure -- but it still needs more punch. I'll probably add a sub or buy an extra 10 and throw them in a box with an amp.

[14S4GWM]

^ That one has a low sensitivity, why didn't you go with the Pioneer like everyone else.

[majestictorment]

^ That one has a low sensitivity, why didn't you go with the Pioneer like everyone else.

Not sure. The Pioneer had changed. To be honest, I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to car audio. This one had better reviews on Crutchfield and the same ohms. What is this low sensitivity responce you speak of?

[14S4GWM]

Not sure. The Pioneer had changed. To be honest, I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to car audio. This one had better reviews on Crutchfield and the same ohms. What is this low sensitivity responce you speak of?

The higher the number the more efficient it is which in turn plays louder.

[nikkobdenis]

Everyone with an Avant, iv'e seen pics in the audio thread.

Is this mod available for the Avant? I tried searching and can't find anything..

[b6onboost]

You just need to power it with an external amp and it will sound many times better.

The reason most people go with the Pioneer is because it has a high sensitivity at 93db. The Polk is rated at 86db. That's a 6+ db difference. General rule of thumb is every 3db the sound level doubles. So on the stock amp, that Polk is only about 1/3 as loud/punchy as the Pioneer. Big difference. Now if you throw more power at the Polk with an external amp...it will sound much better than a Pioneer on stock amp.


I'm not quite satisfied. It's an upgrade, sure -- but it still needs more punch. I'll probably add a sub or buy an extra 10 and throw them in a box with an amp.

[Party_Marty]

So after following this thread, I'm still not 100% sure of what I need. I have a 2014 B8.5 Non-B&O system, AMI, no nav, base sound system. It was worth it to get the 6spd [:D]. Anyway, I am picking up that I need a 2 ohm or a 4 ohm sub. I saw that the B&O is an 8 ohm. Does this not matter if I plan on installing another amp to power the sub? Also, can the OEM sub wires be used as the input wires for the amp to give the correct signal for the new sub? Maybe I am over thinking this, but I want to nail down EXACTLY how I will do this before I buy anything. Thanks in advance everybody.

[bermudakid]

So after following this thread, I'm still not 100% sure of what I need. I have a 2014 B8.5 Non-B&O system, AMI, no nav, base sound system. It was worth it to get the 6spd [:D]. Anyway, I am picking up that I need a 2 ohm or a 4 ohm sub. I saw that the B&O is an 8 ohm. Does this not matter if I plan on installing another amp to power the sub? Also, can the OEM sub wires be used as the input wires for the amp to give the correct signal for the new sub? Maybe I am over thinking this, but I want to nail down EXACTLY how I will do this before I buy anything. Thanks in advance everybody.

if you're planning on putting in an amp you dont need to match the stock subs ohms. You can use the stock woofer wires for the input but you will probably need a line output converter between the stock wires and what ever amp you buy.

[Party_Marty]

if you're planning on putting in an amp you dont need to match the stock subs ohms. You can use the stock woofer wires for the input but you will probably need a line output converter between the stock wires and what ever amp you buy.

Ahh I see. Thanks for the input. Does anybody know where I could get said Converter?

[14S4GWM]

Ahh I see. Thanks for the input. Does anybody know where I could get said Converter?

Here's a good one
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2I/AudioControl-LC2i.html?tp=2001

[Party_Marty]

Here's a good one
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2I/AudioControl-LC2i.html?tp=2001

That's perfect. I was planning on purchasing my Sub and Amp from crutchfield anyway. Thanks for the help! [up]

[b6onboost]

There's no reason to spend $99 on a Line Level Converter when most aftermarket amplifiers accept speaker level inputs (directly from your factory sub wires).


That's perfect. I was planning on purchasing my Sub and Amp from crutchfield anyway. Thanks for the help! [up]

[Party_Marty]

There's no reason to spend $99 on a Line Level Converter when most aftermarket amplifiers accept speaker level inputs (directly from your factory sub wires).

I'll take that into consideration. When I find what i'm looking for I will call in to make sure that's the case after talking with a specialist. Thanks!

[doug97gxe]

this is the LOC i have http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61pxdO6GGuL._SL1000_.jpg

it works great

[b6onboost]

Finally got around to doing this mod.

• Kicker Comp S 10in sub (free-air suitable)
• MDF spacer ring (~ 0.75in)
• SoundStream mono amplifier
• 80mil sound deadening
• Poly-fill

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/jpro222/B8%20Audi/kicker1.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/jpro222/B8%20Audi/Trunk1.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/jpro222/B8%20Audi/soundstream.jpg

Install Notes: The Kicker sub's basket is a little too wide for the OEM hole, so a ring is needed to lift it a little bit. The subs holes line up directly so no additional drilling is required. I put 2 full layers of sound deadening on the deck. Plus I layered up to further lift the sub, especially in the back since the deck is not level. I also put sound deadening on the grilles and 3rd brake light. None in the trunk yet, but I may. I trimmed the under-side of the speaker grille to prevent contact during sub excursion. Finally I stuffed poly-fill between the deck and cover so it can't move/rattle. I thank all who posted their install notes and rattle trouble spots. It certainly made my install easier. The amp install was cake, nothing note worthy.

Result: Bass response is significantly improved. It’s fuller, deeper, cleaner, and several times louder. It can easily overpower the rest of the stock system. There are no rattles up to moderately high volume levels. I’ve had boxed subs in every car I’ve owned and was skeptical on how an amplified deck mount would sound, yet this setup has far exceeded my expectations. I expected improved SQ, but didn't expect the amount of SPL increase it provided. I'm only giving it 100-150w rms yet it fills the car with just as much bass as my previous boxed system pushing 300w. It is definitely efficient and doesn't need a ton of power. I've listened to it this past week on a variety of music (Rap, Rock, EDM, etc.) and it has performed well. I love the stealth look and near zero loss of useable trunk space.

[dennisA4]

So to clarify... the latest sub to use in a b8.5 with B&O as a direct replacement (no additional amp) is the Pioneer ts-w261d4, correct?

[ranchos]

So to clarify... the latest sub to use in a b8.5 with B&O as a direct replacement (no additional amp) is the Pioneer ts-w261d4, correct?

That's the newer model of the sub I added to my B&O. Works a charm, huge improvement in sound. Make sure to wire it as 8ohms (the instructions are easy for this)!

[asfastas63]

Well I'll be working on mine soon since I just picked up the new version for $45 shipped from Jet.com with a discount code today!

[dennisA4]

I just got my Pioneer TS-W261D4.
In the first post of this thread is a link to the AW DIY install...
http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/
Where it talks about wiring up the new sub... is that still the correct info or has anything changed?

[doug97gxe]

I just got my Pioneer TS-W261D4.
In the first post of this thread is a link to the AW DIY install...
http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/
Where it talks about wiring up the new sub... is that still the correct info or has anything changed?

if you have a B8.5 and you are looking for a turn on lead the red row no longer exists from the B8 .. i used something else.. i will get you a pic

edit: here you go

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/08/f736e63ee0cf3c1797c9e6973af8e21a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/08/e0d3446b8164f1af2f686924e8b960e4.jpg

[dennisA4]

Ok, now I'm confused. ^^^
I just need to take the original harness that was plugged into the original subwoofer and wire it up to the new sub.
What's this other wire for???

[doug97gxe]

Ok, now I'm confused. ^^^
I just need to take the original harness that was plugged into the original subwoofer and wire it up to the new sub.
What's this other wire for???

oh i thought you were using an aftermarket Amp as well.. if not ignore what i just posted

[dennisA4]

ok good, haha. Thank though.

But yeah, just want to make sure the new sub is connected to the stock wiring the correct way.

[WAF]

ok good, haha. Thank though.

But yeah, just want to make sure the new sub is connected to the stock wiring the correct way.

Hey dennisA4 can you do a lil review of this sub? and a pic also if possible. How many wires are from the factory? I personally haven't looked myself but will probably do this mod in a bit.

[dennisA4]

Hey dennisA4 can you do a lil review of this sub? and a pic also if possible. How many wires are from the factory? I personally haven't looked myself but will probably do this mod in a bit.

Yeah, i'll let you know how it sounds. There are just two wires going to the original sub via a plastic connector which I'll snip off.
These two wires are also partially bundled with the trunk light wiring so I'm going to look at separating them which will allow the sub wiring to reach closer to the new sub's connections, maybe without having to splice in new wires.

[WAF]

Yeah, i'll let you know how it sounds. There are just two wires going to the original sub via a plastic connector which I'll snip off.
These two wires are also partially bundled with the trunk light wiring so I'm going to look at separating them which will allow the sub wiring to reach closer to the new sub's connections, maybe without having to splice in new wires.

Sounds good, yah i was curious on the third wire. All makes sense now thanks.

[Gabroo26]

Just added the Pioneer ts-w261d4 to my B&O system a few days ago. Big improvement from the stock sub but I might add in an amp later on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[WAF]

Just added the Pioneer ts-w261d4 to my B&O system a few days ago. Big improvement from the stock sub but I might add in an amp later on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks for the info.

[dennisA4]

Ok, I ran into a problem that now that I look back at all the DIY pics, it's glaringly obvious!!!
I have the rear sunshade! That S.O.B. takes up A LOT of the back deck and I could not figure out how to remove it, even after removing 4 screws from inside the trunk.
The sub would just not fit past the damn thing. There is a metal lip/frame under the roll of fabric that the upper rim of the sub would not fit past, leaving about 1/2" of the base of the sub not able to squeeze into the hole.
Well after about 30-45 minutes of cursing, shoving, trying to find a way to remove the freakin shade, etc... i was finally able to use a large flathead screwdriver to pry up on that metal lip and shove the sub in at the same time.
It finally dropped in. And now the lip of the sub is almost touching that metal lip, just barely under it.

That was problem number one. The second problem, probably not that big of a deal, is that this sub doesn't really fit! The body of the sub is conical shaped, wider at the top than the bottom. So when it's dropped into the hole, it doesn't go down all the way. There is at least a 1/4" of space all the way around because the hole in the rear deck is a smaller diameter than the upper portion of the sub's body. I'll just build up the dynamat a bit and then fill the rest with some foam. THEN i need to figure out a way to screw it in to the deck. I think i'm going to stick a drill bit through the stock holes in the deck and drill into the rim of the sub, creating my own holes.

Meanwhile, i wired the thing up. Super easy, i think. I ran the blue/yellow wire to red like in the AW DIY, but I also tried it the other way and seemed the same to me??
Also, this sub has wire inputs on both sides, so I just chose one. Didn't see a difference in one side over the other.
The stock wiring was used as-is, no lengthening needed. I just clipped off the stock connector and stripped the ends. It was more than long enough to reach the sub inputs.
Turned on the stereo and played some Chvrches from my iPhone and definitely more bass.
I still have to get rid of the space between the sub lip and the rear deck and then put everything back together.

[14S4GWM]

^ Most of the installs I saw the guys were using mdf mounting ring for the sub. It lifts it up a bit and you can screw the sub into from the top and screw the ring from the bottom.

[dennisA4]

Ya, which I might be able to cut a ring and then cut that ring in half to install it between the sub and deck.
Probably the only way to do it with the sunscreen there.
But I think it will be fine doing it the other way. If I didn't have the sunscreen I'd probably do the ring.
The only comments I saw on this was that the deck wasn't level all the way around so there was some space the had to be filled. I hadn't seen anything about the whole just being too small.

[14S4GWM]

^ Build it up a bit with dynamat, which I hope your doing the whole deck with it.

[dennisA4]

^ Build it up a bit with dynamat, which I hope your doing the whole deck with it.

Yes, the whole deck is dynamatted already. Just need to build up under the sub.

[Almost1]

Why is no one using an open air sub? Is it because the sensitivity is too low? Wouldn't a free air sub give you a flatter response overall?

[dennisA4]

So do I need to wire one set of inputs on the sub to the other set of inputs?

[dennisA4]

Ok, never mind... think i figured it out.
Found this diagram for wiring a dual voice coil 4 ohm sub to an 8 ohm amp.
http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/9013/media_image/dev_1/DVC_Series_1.png

Wired it up like this and it sounds great.
Sooooooo much more bass than stock B&O!

[WAF]

Ok, never mind... think i figured it out.
Found this diagram for wiring a dual voice coil 4 ohm sub to an 8 ohm amp.
http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/9013/media_image/dev_1/DVC_Series_1.png

Wired it up like this and it sounds great.
Sooooooo much more bass than stock B&O!

Ah looks like you figured it out, I was going to mention that youd need to bridge the + and - terminals to get 8ohm's. Good to hear I think I might had down to some local shops and see what they carry or order this one online. I've always ran JL Audio and Alpine in the past.....

[b6onboost]

Most people use the Pioneer because its inexpensive, highly sensitive, can be wired for 8ohms....making it the most cost effective way to decently upgrade the sub on the factory B&O system.

There are much better IB/Free Air subs on the market which will perform better if you're willing to pay more for the sub and use an external amplifier.


Why is no one using an open air sub? Is it because the sensitivity is too low? Wouldn't a free air sub give you a flatter response overall?

[mjr034]

Been Looking into doing this with my B&O system, thoughts on this sub?
Looks to be a good open air with the right specs.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BADJ3FY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A2KTLUJEJBW8GS

any idea what connectors i'd need to make this work?
Any help is appreciated!

[doug97gxe]

Been Looking into doing this with my B&O system, thoughts on this sub?
Looks to be a good open air with the right specs.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BADJ3FY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A2KTLUJEJBW8GS

any idea what connectors i'd need to make this work?
Any help is appreciated!

are you going to splice into the factory wiring? if that's the case you only need speaker wire


edit.. just read the specs on that Sub.. i wouldn't run that sub without an external Amp .. it requires 300W and its 4 Ohms vs 8 ohms the factory sub amp uses

[mjr034]

are you going to splice into the factory wiring? if that's the case you only need speaker wire


edit.. just read the specs on that Sub.. i wouldn't run that sub without an external Amp .. it requires 300W and its 4 Ohms vs 8 ohms the factory sub amp uses

how much trouble am i going to get myself into trying to install an amp with this?

its a dual 4 ohm, so I was going to run it in series to get it running at 8 ohms.

[doug97gxe]

how much trouble am i going to get myself into trying to install an amp with this?

its a dual 4 ohm, so I was going to run it in series to get it running at 8 ohms.

its very easy.. and you are pretty much doing the same amount of work believe it or not.. the battery is in the trunk.. you just need an amp kit.. connect your power.. connect your ground .. same wire you were going to splice into the BO Sub wiring for the Sub that goes to a line out converter .. the RCA connections of the line out converter goes to the AMP.. the Sub is connected to the speaker output of the amp .. and you connect your remote wiring to the picture i made above .. couple hours tops..

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi-a5-s5-rs5-coupe-cabrio-125/2010-s5-amp-sub-install-write-up-2776325/

[mjr034]

its very easy.. and you are pretty much doing the same amount of work believe it or not.. the battery is in the trunk.. you just need an amp kit.. connect your power.. connect your ground .. same wire you were going to splice into the BO Sub wiring for the Sub that goes to a line out converter .. the RCA connections of the line out converter goes to the AMP.. the Sub is connected to the speaker output of the amp .. and you connect your remote wiring to the picture i made above .. couple hours tops..

would that be a dedicated sub amp then? or would I be replacing the factory amp with this, and need to wire in all speaker connections?

[doug97gxe]

would that be a dedicated sub amp then? or would I be replacing the factory amp with this, and need to wire in all speaker connections?

dedicated sub amp.. the Line Output Converter is going to clean up the signal from the factory amp .. so you just need to tap that from the existing wiring going to the old subwoofer

[mjr034]

dedicated sub amp.. the Line Output Converter is going to clean up the signal from the factory amp .. so you just need to tap that from the existing wiring going to the old subwoofer

wouldn't the amp draw from the battery all the time and drain the power when the car isn't running?

[doug97gxe]

wouldn't the amp draw from the battery all the time and drain the power when the car isn't running?

nah that's what the turn on wire is for... so the pic i had posted is the remote turn on wire which connects to a switched source for when the car is on.. on the B8's there was a red row.. that was removed on the B8.5's

pic of switched source.. blue wire is the remote wire to the amp remote turn on lead

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/08/f736e63ee0cf3c1797c9e6973af8e21a.jpg

[mjr034]

nah that's what the turn on wire is for... so the pic i had posted is the remote turn on wire which connects to a switched source for when the car is on.. on the B8's there was a red row.. that was removed on the B8.5's

pic of switched source.. blue wire is the remote wire to the amp remote turn on lead

Cool - thanks Doug.
I'm gonna probably tear it apart tonight and decide if i'm up for it. I'll probably end up with an amp though i'd guess.
really don't want to spend the time with changing out the sub and be disappointed with my results.

[doug97gxe]

Cool - thanks Doug.
I'm gonna probably tear it apart tonight and decide if i'm up for it. I'll probably end up with an amp though i'd guess.
really don't want to spend the time with changing out the sub and be disappointed with my results.

what you can do is rip it apart.. dynamat ... mount your sub.. see if you like it with the factory amp.. then you can do the external amp after.. you will already be 70% through your journey .. my guess it will sound worse than the BO Sub because its a 50ish watt 8 ohm amp pushing a 600 watt 4 ohm sub... for a 4 ohm sub the sub will prob see 25 watts .. it might not even sound like its working.. but step by step is good

[BMWManiac]

I have a 250/1 JL mono amp and an alpine mono amp lying around I can use. Instead of replacing any of the speakers/woofers, do I just need to run speaker wires from the MMI/B&O system back to the amp? I'm an audio noobie when it comes to anything into OEM applications. In my M3, I have an aftermarket 4 x channel radio powering my door speakers and a 5 channel amp powering my other 4 speakers/subwoofer, so I understand the concept, just not sure how to tie in the sub/amp into the stock sound system in the Audi?

[doug97gxe]

I have a 250/1 JL mono amp and an alpine mono amp lying around I can use. Instead of replacing any of the speakers/woofers, do I just need to run speaker wires from the MMI/B&O system back to the amp? I'm an audio noobie when it comes to anything into OEM applications. In my M3, I have an aftermarket 4 x channel radio powering my door speakers and a 5 channel amp powering my other 4 speakers/subwoofer, so I understand the concept, just not sure how to tie in the sub/amp into the stock sound system in the Audi?

are you adding on a sub or replacing all the speakers?

[BMWManiac]

are you adding on a sub or replacing all the speakers?

I'm just looking to add a 10" or 12" sub to the B&O system in an enclosed box in the trunk with an aftermarket amp

[doug97gxe]

I'm just looking to add a 10" or 12" sub to the B&O system in an enclosed box in the trunk with an aftermarket amp

oh ok.. then its pretty much this below .. basically you're going to use the speaker wires from the BO Amp going to the BO Sub .. i spliced mine right before the Subwoofer.. that's the only connection you need to factory system


its very easy.. and you are pretty much doing the same amount of work believe it or not.. the battery is in the trunk.. you just need an amp kit.. connect your power.. connect your ground .. same wire you were going to splice into the BO Sub wiring for the Sub that goes to a line out converter .. the RCA connections of the line out converter goes to the AMP.. the Sub is connected to the speaker output of the amp .. and you connect your remote wiring to the picture i made above .. couple hours tops..

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi-a5-s5-rs5-coupe-cabrio-125/2010-s5-amp-sub-install-write-up-2776325/

[Evan2]

Wow, just did the install today. Night and day difference and I havent even put the rear speakers back in yet. I went with the TS-W261D4 and Stinger Road Kill even have some left after buying 4sq ft. I did not do the 3rd brake light as I do not hear any rattle. Hardest part was def the speaker grills I broke both but did so slightly where I believe I can glue them back as they are hard to notice so they are drying over night.

[Rinaldi]

This mod made a big difference in bottom end in the back of the car? A local shop was pitching $1500 for an enclosed sub custom made for the trunk. I thought he was nuts until he suggested amping all the speakers and adding the same sub for ONLY $4500.

[dbv2]

How do I tell if I have the B&O system? I do know I have a 10 speaker sound system, concert III(I think) and there is a sub and amp in my trunk

[14S4GWM]

How do I tell if I have the B&O system? I do know I have a 10 speaker sound system, concert III(I think) and there is a sub and amp in my trunk

What year is your car? Says B & O on the speakers.

[weagle1856]

How do I tell if I have the B&O system? I do know I have a 10 speaker sound system, concert III(I think) and there is a sub and amp in my trunk
You will absolutely know if you have the B&O. It'll say it on almost every speaker grill in your car. (At least for B8+)

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[dbv2]

What year is your car? Says B & O on the speakers.


You will absolutely know if you have the B&O. It'll say it on almost every speaker grill in your car. (At least for B8+)

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I'll go take a look.. I can still do this mod if I don't have the B&O correct? Car is 2012. It does have the amp and sub I know this.

[weagle1856]

I'll go take a look.. I can still do this mod if I don't have the B&O correct? Car is 2012. It does have the amp and sub I know this.
The audi symphony / concert (I forget the current naming) does have the sub. It also has a good amount of speakers. Also just because it isn't the upgraded option doesn't mean it's not a good premium sound. Audi's default system is the best standard Audi system I've ever heard!

But definitely double check.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[dbv2]

The audi symphony / concert (I forget the current naming) does have the sub. It also has a good amount of speakers. Also just because it isn't the upgraded option doesn't mean it's not a good premium sound. Audi's default system is the best standard Audi system I've ever heard!

But definitely double check.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

It doesn't have any B&O markings. But yes sub and amp is equipped.. Is this mod do able?

[mintytoo]

Back from the dead. Doug, in that picture, of the b8.5, where is that relay? Is that coming from the back of the car? I'm looking around the amp area and cannot find those fuses or relays. Thanks.

[eightamrock]

Back from the dead. Doug, in that picture, of the b8.5, where is that relay? Is that coming from the back of the car? I'm looking around the amp area and cannot find those fuses or relays. Thanks.

Rear passenger side fuse area. The one with the cargo netting on it.


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[mintytoo]

Rear passenger side fuse area. The one with the cargo netting on it.


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Thanks. Ha ha, I knew I should have pull that out. Oh well, I routed it from the drivers fuse box.

[irobb]

Doing this today! I can't wait to get off work! :) :)

[Wiredin]

I'm looking at doing this pretty quick in my 2011. As early as first week september actually... (pay day lol)

https://www.amazon.ca/10TW1-4-Audio-300W-4-Ohm-Subwoofer/dp/B00OALB31A is the one I'm looking at...

[pilot1981]

Anyone with B&O have already tried to upgrade firmware? Someone report a problem of audio after upgrade firmware...it need to be restored in Audi store?

Any info are useful...

[irobb]

Did this over the weekend. Here are some of my thoughts.

- Used TS-W261D4
- Had to drill holes in the sub to match the 3 holes on the body. This was easily done by placing the sub in, going to the trunk and then marking the spot to drill from underneath. I then used screw/bolts to put in place.
- Wired the sub in series since it's dual 4 ohms to make it 8 ohms.
- I used GMAT 80 mil. No rattles!

http://i.imgur.com/pRkL2V7m.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/e0fSeZam.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CAYFosMm.jpg

Here's a vid of it after I put it in. Of course the camera phone doesn't do it any justice, however...


https://youtu.be/GM-ZGkBsoUY

Lastly, thanks guys!

[Yavstr]

You will be loosing some efficiency with that sub over the pioneer 90 vs 93 dB but the shallow depth will be nice.

I did the sound deadening on my back deck, 2-3 layers of it but I am not sure how much of a difference it made. There are a lot of lightening holes in the deck that increase stiffness but adding deadening should help some. I looked at it as a very easy and cheap thing to do while you have everything apart.

Actually the 93db is more efficient.
I use to compete in car audio competitions back in the 90's and won quite a few. I use to run the original Crunch 12WTPs in and would put 200 watts to each 12 and could push more air around with that setup then people running 800 watts to an Orion extreme box because my 12's had a db rating of 98 where as the Orion had a db rating of 88. Simply put the higher the db the more efficient the sub will operate with low wattage. Also keep in mind its better to over power a sub than it is to under power it.

I would suggest finding out what the sensitivity rating is on the rest of the speakers. If the rest of the speakers are of a higher db rating then going with a lower db rating on a sub will mean you're going to spend more time finding a good balance between all the speakers in your system.

[Yavstr]

I'm looking at doing this pretty quick in my 2011. As early as first week september actually... (pay day lol)

https://www.amazon.ca/10TW1-4-Audio-300W-4-Ohm-Subwoofer/dp/B00OALB31A is the one I'm looking at...

Did you notice this is not a free air sub? It's recommended for ported and sealed enclosures not to mention has a 4ohm impedance.

[Wiredin]

Did you notice this is not a free air sub? It's recommended for ported and sealed enclosures not to mention has a 4ohm impedance.

good call, no I never noticed that.

I'm having issues finding an 8ohm sub available locally. I'll have to do some deeper digging.

[Yavstr]

good call, no I never noticed that.

I'm having issues finding an 8ohm sub available locally. I'll have to do some deeper digging.

Maybe you can find a Kicker Comp 10C108 - they are really good for free air use and might be shallow enough?

[irobb]

Wait, why not just use the Pioneer?

[Yavstr]

Wait, why not just use the Pioneer?
He was looking for a shallow mount.

[b6onboost]

Shallow mount subs pose two problems...

1. Most won't fit. The baskets on most shallow subs are too large to use in the OEM deck cutout which is like 8.8-9in. Be sure to check the cutout diameter spec for the Sub.

2. Most are designed for small sealed enclosures which means they'll underperform in a free air setup. If you're going to run free-air you need to select a sub that's optimally suited for it.

[Wiredin]

He was looking for a shallow mount.

yes sir, want to limit how much space it takes up in the trunk. but also need to fix how awful this sound system is. lol

[Yavstr]

Shallow mount subs pose two problems...

1. Most won't fit. The baskets on most shallow subs are too large to use in the OEM deck cutout which is like 8.8-9in. Be sure to check the cutout diameter spec for the Sub.

2. Most are designed for small sealed enclosures which means they'll underperform in a free air setup. If you're going to run free-air you need to select a sub that's optimally suited for it.

This is why I mentioned the Kicker. It's a very good free air sub and is somewhat shallow. There are also some options from RF but with those you're talking about a bit more coin. If you can find an MTX terminator that might be an option as I think it's efficient (can't recall the db's on that) and it's offered in a free air option.

People just need to keep in mind free air isn't going to give you that deep pounding sound you can feel, for that you need a sealed enclosure, or if you don't care about trunk space a 7th order is super efficient and has great output.

[Wiredin]

kickers discontinued... :(


the impedance issue is killing me. looked on crutchfield and nothing in 8ohm


saw this in 4ohm http://www.crutchfield.com/p_108REF100S/Infinity-REF1000S.html?tp=68872


an impedance mismatch gonna blow shit up?

[b6onboost]

So what's the deal... you don't want the Pioneer as its too deep or ?

PS...that shallow Infinity won't fit. Too large of a cut out diameter.

[b6onboost]

I run a Kicker Comp S. Its free air suitable. Its a lot less efficient than the Pioneer but I'm running a kicker mono amp so that isn't a problem. Its not very deep. Hangs down maybe 3in which isn't bad.

I actually ran it (2ohm) off the stock, non-B&O, amp for a while and it was still an improvement. They make the same model in DVC (Comp D) which could be wired for 8ohm and should sound a lot better with the more powerful B&O amp.

I actually think the sound is very deep. Its just not thumping/pounding like you get with a box.


This is why I mentioned the Kicker. It's a very good free air sub and is somewhat shallow. People just need to keep in mind free air isn't going to give you that deep pounding sound you can feel, for that you need a sealed enclosure

[Yavstr]

kickers discontinued... :(


the impedance issue is killing me. looked on crutchfield and nothing in 8ohm


saw this in 4ohm http://www.crutchfield.com/p_108REF100S/Infinity-REF1000S.html?tp=68872


an impedance mismatch gonna blow shit up?

Just find a dual 4 ohm and you can run that in series to get the 8 ohm load.
Another option would be to find a bazooka tube and run that, you can always take it out if needed.

I'm actually leaving my factory B & O in place, if i decide to later change it out I've got a very nice setup ready to go, complete with a IDMAX12.

[Yavstr]

I run a Kicker Comp S. Its free air suitable. Its a lot less efficient than the Pioneer but I'm running a kicker mono amp so that isn't a problem. Its not very deep. Hangs down maybe 3in which isn't bad.

I actually ran it (2ohm) off the stock, non-B&O, amp for a while and it was still an improvement. They make the same model in DVC (Comp D) which could be wired for 8ohm and should sound a lot better with the more powerful B&O amp.

I actually think the sound is very deep. Its just not thumping/pounding like you get with a box.

The last time I competed under Kicker I was running 2 10" Kicker Comps in a .65 cu sealed enclose, they did the job for the 250 watt class.

[Linksman72]

http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh482/Martin_Bozek/CIMG1482_zpsa6wgznwf.jpg

[CoalFD]

Did you notice this is not a free air sub? It's recommended for ported and sealed enclosures not to mention has a 4ohm impedance.

Crutchfield lists the pioneer sub as non free air also-
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TW261D4/Pioneer-TS-W261D4.html?search=TSW261D4&skipvs=T

[petraman]

I have found it nearly impossible to find an 8 or 4+4 ohm sub that fits in the stock sub location and is designed for free air applications...

[b6onboost]

Very few manufacturers advertise their subs as 'free air' capable because they almost all perform much better in an enclosure. Truth is any sub can operate in free-air, but some are much better suited for it than others. Ideally for free air you want: High Xmax, High Qts, Low Fs. High sensitivity (db) is always optimal, but all subs are more sensitive when not enclosed so its not that crucial of a parameter. For adding a sub to the B&O amp you need 8ohms or 4+4 DVC.

The Pioneer is the most common choice and works really well in free air. Kicker Comps are all free air suitable too (they just need an MDF ring to lift them a little).

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TW261D4/Pioneer-TS-W261D4.html?search=TSW261D4&skipvs=T

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CWD104/Kicker-40CWD104.html?tp=111

[Poodini]

Very few manufacturers advertise their subs as 'free air' capable because they almost all perform much better in an enclosure. Truth is any sub can operate in free-air, but some are much better suited for it than others. Ideally for free air you want: High Xmax, High Qts, Low Fs. High sensitivity (db) is always optimal, but all subs are more sensitive when not enclosed so its not that crucial of a parameter. For adding a sub to the B&O amp you need 8ohms or 4+4 DVC.

The Pioneer is the most common choice and works really well in free air. Kicker Comps are all free air suitable too (they just need an MDF ring to lift them a little).

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TW261D4/Pioneer-TS-W261D4.html?search=TSW261D4&skipvs=T

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CWD104/Kicker-40CWD104.html?tp=111

So thinking about doing this mod for my '10 S Line w B&O..

Is there any preference between the Pioneer and the Kicker? Looks like the vast majority are running the Pioneer. I did read though that the Kicker's mounting holes line up perfectly with the OE mount so no need for drilling!

Any/all comments and advice is much appreciated!

[emoji111]🏼️


Sent from my iPhone usingTapatalk

[8T_BoCO]

The specs are quite different.

The Pioneer is significantly more efficient (93 db vs 86 db), meaning it produces more volume with fewer watts - i.e. it is easier for the amp to drive. The Pioneer claims to produce 10 Hz lower than the Kicker (20 vs 30). Those are frequencies you'd feel rather than hear ;)

[Poodini]

So if I want better overall sound, then the Pioneer unit is the way to go then.


Sent from my iPhone usingTapatalk

[14S4GWM]

So if I want better overall sound, then the Pioneer unit is the way to go then.


Sent from my iPhone usingTapatalk

Yes, that's why everyone is using it.

[ranchos]

As far as the pioneer holes not matching up, I just drilled new holes in the plastic mounting ring and used a washer on the bolt top to securely hold the speaker down. Not super pretty, but it's solid and completely hidden so who cares.

[14S4GWM]

Why didn't you just screw the sub to the spacer ring then drop it in and use the 3 holes on the deck and screw from below into the ring?

[Poodini]

So what specific spacer should I get for this mod?
I have ZERO electrical skills so if anyone wants to draft up a quick DIY, that'd be HUGE!


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[14S4GWM]

So what specific spacer should I get for this mod?
I have ZERO electrical skills so if anyone wants to draft up a quick DIY, that'd be HUGE!


Sent from my iPhone usingTapatalk

There's about 4 good diy threads on this. Get a 10"x3/4" spacer. You don't need any electrical experience if your just replacing the sub.

[Poodini]

Aside fr the spacer, anything else I need to help reduce unwanted vibration.


Sent from my iPhone usingTapatalk

[ranchos]

Why didn't you just screw the sub to the spacer ring then drop it in and use the 3 holes on the deck and screw from below into the ring?

I didn't use a spacer. If I ever swap it out, which I probably won't ever need to, I'd add a spacer for sure.

[14S4GWM]

Aside fr the spacer, anything else I need to help reduce unwanted vibration.
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Sound deaden the deck


I didn't use a spacer. If I ever swap it out, which I probably won't ever need to, I'd add a spacer for sure.

Understood

[ranchos]

Aside fr the spacer, anything else I need to help reduce unwanted vibration.


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This is a JL subwoofer, but I found this DIY excellent.

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/

[14S4GWM]

This is a JL subwoofer, but I found this DIY excellent.

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/

That's one everyone references, heres another

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/691316-Subwoofer-upgrade-with-Amp-and-LOC

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/472203-Bang-and-Olufsen-(B-amp-O)-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Add-On-DIY

[Poodini]

^^
Appreciate it fellas!



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[Poodini]

So, I'm just about done with this sub swap! I've got the Pioneer 10" mounted on a 1" wood spacer + dynamatted. Bonehead question. How do you reconfigure the OE wiring and run the 2 lines in order to accommodate this 2 x 4 ohm config? I'm electrically ILLITERATE so if anyone can give a 'how to', that'd be greatly appreciated!
✌️

[fatboydelights]

So, I'm just about done with this sub swap! I've got the Pioneer 10" mounted on a 1" wood spacer + dynamatted. Bonehead question. How do you reconfigure the OE wiring and run the 2 lines in order to accommodate this 2 x 4 ohm config? I'm electrically ILLITERATE so if anyone can give a 'how to', that'd be greatly appreciated!
✌️
Here you go http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spkr_s.gif

[14S4GWM]

Here you go http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spkr_s.gif

He said he's electronically illiterate, that might mess him up real good. His is answer is already in this thread.

[Poodini]

He said he's electronically illiterate, that might mess him up real good. His is answer is already in this thread.

Don't get cryptic on my ass now![emoji1]
Seriously though, I take it I'm to cut the adapter clip off the OE plug in order to expose the wires. Where do I go from that point?


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[14S4GWM]

^ yes you need to cut the oem connector off. Look at this link and wire the sub just how it is in this pic. You have two 4 ohm voice coils on the sub that need wired this way to match the ohms of the factory amp.

http://www.vmaudio.com/index.php/one-4-ohm-dvc-sub-bridged-2-channel-amp-8-ohm-load/

[Poodini]

^^^
That's a great illustration! Thanks.
So is the white wire the + and the blue wire - ?


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[Poodini]

And do you unscrew those voice coils to thread the wire and crimp? Sorry for my lack of electrical know-how here..


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[14S4GWM]

I can't remember which color is which but it's in one of the three threads about this upgrade.

Either unscrew or push in to see the hole where the wire goes.

[fatboydelights]

He said he's electronically illiterate, that might mess him up real good. His is answer is already in this thread.
It's four terminals and three wires... Maybe pay someone to install it then.

[Poodini]

It's four terminals and three wires... Maybe pay someone to install it then.

Want to avoid that! I'm too close to the finish line so I appreciate everyone's help.

[emoji1598]


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[Poodini]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160917/83d2ec601753499bcd7705565600a88c.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160917/833e89affaef7f30f6c116e3bb05f1b0.jpg

FINALLY! Hardest part was working sideways in a cramped space. That said though, relatively straightforward and it sounds crisper and better overall depth of sound.
Noise/Vibration cancelling mat is ESSENTIAL!!
Thanks again to everyone here for the advice and the assist.
[emoji1598]


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[Poodini]

^^
Yes, I plan to clean that wiring slop up!!
Was just jazzed to get it in!


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[Poodini]

Now that's more like it!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/707c8464d4f34cbbeb4e1841c9cba617.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/3ef27a3a3bceb73c43c97e13819a0ed4.jpg

SHOUT OUT to MFed for pointing out my original wiring job was begging to underperform, Hell, even possibly catch fire!!
Looking forward to you landing that S4 you've been on the lookout for![emoji102]

Great mod and the overall improvement in sound is apparent without being a public nuisance!

Thanks everyone on the thread for their tips/guidance.

[emoji343][emoji443][emoji95][emoji844]


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[endy1]

Now that's more like it!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/707c8464d4f34cbbeb4e1841c9cba617.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/3ef27a3a3bceb73c43c97e13819a0ed4.jpg

SHOUT OUT to MFed for pointing out my original wiring job was begging to underperform, Hell, even possibly catch fire!!
Looking forward to you landing that S4 you've been on the lookout for![emoji102]

Great mod and the overall improvement in sound is apparent without being a public nuisance!

Thanks everyone on the thread for their tips/guidance.

[emoji343][emoji443][emoji95][emoji844]


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You got the B&O system? And or with amp?
I dont got B&O and with oem amp. At first i heard nothing but after a while i started to come. But i would like a little more. Is an aftermarket amp to preffer?


Question to anyone.
Did i wire it wrong if i bridged one side and the other side ++ --?

Is this how it should be or does it not mather?
http://www.docent-decibel.se/store/images/File/faqdocs/bilder/logos/2x8ohm.JPG

[14S4GWM]

You got the B&O system? And or with amp?
I dont got B&O and with oem amp. At first i heard nothing but after a while i started to come. But i would like a little more. Is an aftermarket amp to preffer?


Question to anyone.
Did i wire it wrong if i bridged one side and the other side ++ --? Or does it not mather?

Yes you did it wrong, see post 179.

Get an amp with speaker level inputs.

[Poodini]

You got the B&O system? And or with amp?
I dont got B&O and with oem amp. At first i heard nothing but after a while i started to come. But i would like a little more. Is an aftermarket amp to preffer?


Question to anyone.
Did i wire it wrong if i bridged one side and the other side ++ --?

Is this how it should be or does it not mather?
http://www.docent-decibel.se/store/images/File/faqdocs/bilder/logos/2x8ohm.JPG

I have the B&O so it's essentially a straight swap. Since the Pioneer unit has 2 4 ohm ports, you have to take your OE line, clip off the connector plug, and splice so you have 1 positive and one negative line with a separate single line bridging the 2 ports.


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[endy1]

I have the B&O so it's essentially a straight swap. Since the Pioneer unit has 2 4 ohm ports, you have to take your OE line, clip off the connector plug, and splice so you have 1 positive and one negative line with a separate single line bridging the 2 ports.


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Already had it installed just wired it wrong :)

But now im confued about which one is + and -. Tried one way first and it looked like it went down so i changed, still looks like it goes down :D Anyway, i got Yellow/White and Yellow/Brown. Anyone know whats what?

[A4x]

Already had it installed just wired it wrong :)

But now im confued about which one is + and -. Tried one way first and it looked like it went down so i changed, still looks like it goes down :D Anyway, i got Yellow/White and Yellow/Brown. Anyone know whats what?

Yellow/brown is negative.

Wiring in reverse will only make the speaker cone move in the opposite direction. Sometimes it will result in a better sound (especially if your new sub is in reverse orientation to the old one).

[Dragoncub]

For those of you have that have added the sound deadener on the rear deck, how much did you need? I want to purchase either second skin or hushmat. I see that hushmat has a 4 sq ft kit and the smallest kit on amazon for second skin is 10 sq ft. Would 4 sq ft be enough for the rear deck? I don't want to get more then I need as I wouldn't have any use for the additional material.

[14S4GWM]

You can pretty much look at the rear deck and see how much you need. I would say 4 wouldn't do a complete job.

[Dragoncub]

You can pretty much look at the rear deck and see how much you need. I would say 4 wouldn't do a complete job.

The car is at the station while I'm at work, so can't really measure at the moment. I wanted to order something today before EOD so I could get the material before the weekend.

[irobb]

I used this one that had 10 sq ft and barely had any left.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A01O4TW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Dragoncub]

I used this one that had 10 sq ft and barely had any left.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A01O4TW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks that good to know. Then I'll get the get the 10 sq ft kit. Did you do one layer or two?
Btw, does the GTMat have any odor to it? I'm trying to avoid an asphalt based product, that last thing I want is my car smelling like asphalt on a hot summer day.

[irobb]

two where i needed to.

It didn't smell to me.

[Dubious]

Question for all. I am at about volume 20 with bass up all the way and the bass is cleaner and clearer but im getting the impression that it should be louder. What have others experienced and at what volume do you start to notice the increased bass? Have others noticed no significant improvement in low volume bass?

For wiring I placed the white wire to the negative terminal (2014 B&O Amp)

Thanks!

[Poodini]

Question for all. I am at about volume 20 with bass up all the way and the bass is cleaner and clearer but im getting the impression that it should be louder. What have others experienced and at what volume do you start to notice the increased bass? Have others noticed no significant improvement in low volume bass?

For wiring I placed the white wire to the negative terminal (2014 B&O Amp)

Thanks!

DITTO this!

Sounds crisp but I'm not hearing much of a difference between the OE setup and this Pioneer..


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[mintytoo]

DITTO this!

Sounds crisp but I'm not hearing much of a difference between the OE setup and this Pioneer..


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Get an amp, all the difference in the world. Easy install too, just involves running a couple wires. Installing the sub was the hard part.

[Poodini]

Get an amp, all the difference in the world. Easy install too, just involves running a couple wires. Installing the sub was the hard part.

Suggestions?

Where would the amp be mounted?

I do have the B&O system btw.

Thanks


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[mintytoo]

Suggestions?

Where would the amp be mounted?

I do have the B&O system btw.

Thanks


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Check the earlier posts in this thread. It's usually placed in the driver's side trunk behind the pop out compartment, plenty of room. And I chose this amp Kenwood KAC-5001PS.

[Poodini]

Check the earlier posts in this thread. It's usually placed in the driver's side trunk behind the pop out compartment, plenty of room. And I chose this amp Kenwood KAC-5001PS.

Cool. I'll dig back and take a look.
How are you liking your setup now that you're running that amp?


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[mintytoo]

Cool. I'll dig back and take a look.
How are you liking your setup now that you're running that amp?


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Love it, can really shake up the seats if that's what you're looking for or just add a little oomph. Btw, highly recommend the dynomat or gtmat for the rear shelf if you're going to add an amp, it's going to shake

[Poodini]

I lined the back when I installed the Pioneer sub..
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161018/4dc89d9d815840ca802aee4a1960bc4d.jpg

Anyone have a direct link/shortcut to adding an amp with this Pioneer subwoofer upgrade.

Gracias


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[whiped]

Just an FYI for those with the pioneer sub, use a single VC and wire it at 4 ohms.

Made a pretty big difference and the stock sub can still power it without issues.

In laymen terms, hook the sub up to a single side and leave the other side disconnected. (You might need to swap the polarity)

[Poodini]

Just an FYI for those with the pioneer sub, use a single VC and wire it at 4 ohms.

Made a pretty big difference and the stock sub can still power it without issues.

In laymen terms, hook the sub up to a single side and leave the other side disconnected. (You might need to swap the polarity)

So everyone on the og B&O sub upgrade thread missed the boat here?

Now I'm def a 'layman' when it comes to electrical so I basically took everyone else's lead from that thread.
This may explain why it seems the sub upgrade doesn't sound like much of an upgrade at all![emoji848]

If anyone else can corroborate this that'd help a lot of us straighten this out.

[emoji111]🏼️


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[whiped]

So everyone on the og B&O sub upgrade thread missed the boat here?

Now I'm def a 'layman' when it comes to electrical so I basically took everyone else's lead from that thread.
This may explain why it seems the sub upgrade doesn't sound like much of an upgrade at all![emoji848]

If anyone else can corroborate this that'd help a lot of us straighten this out.

[emoji111]🏼️


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I had mine wired to 8 ohms as well as that is what the factory one is.

Saw someone mention that the stock amp can power a 4 ohm one as well without issue so I decided to test it.

Swapped the wires around, tested it up to full volume, ran a full scan in vcds and had no issues. This was about a month ago and I haven't changed it back.

Just so you know I am not full of shit here is mine installed:

http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa435/LaxerTech/Mobile%20Uploads/20160721_192432_HDR_zpsninwuut1.jpg

[mintytoo]

I don't have the b&o, but sub+ amp is greathttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161018/11def35837bd7c0349f3d7ad4d9af84c.jpg

[Dubious]

Anyone else running this config?

So you are sayig running one voice coil @4 ohms sounds better than 8ohm?

[endy1]

At first my pioneer pretty much dident sound at all. But after it got "played in" im pretty happy with it. A little more then the original woofer.

[whiped]

Anyone else running this config?

So you are sayig running one voice coil @4 ohms sounds better than 8ohm?

Better? Debatable. (I think so)

More punchy, YES! [:D]

Try it out, takes 10 seconds to swap the wires.

Here is what I ordered by the way:

Here are some instructions:

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/
https://snapguide.com/guides/audi-a4a5-bang-olufsen-subwoofer-upgrade/

Here is what I ordered:

Pioneer TSW261D4 10-Inch Champion (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8B7CBW) - $42 from the Amazon Warehouse
10" Speaker Spacer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013NWD0S) - $7 from Amazon
GTMAT Sound Dampening Kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A01SX1W) -$23 From Amazon

You might consider swapping the Sub out for a single 4 Ohm one if you are looking for more bass.

[bermudakid]

Just an FYI for those with the pioneer sub, use a single VC and wire it at 4 ohms.

Made a pretty big difference and the stock sub can still power it without issues.

In laymen terms, hook the sub up to a single side and leave the other side disconnected. (You might need to swap the polarity)

I'll give it a shot. [up]

[b6onboost]

Generally running less impedance (4ohms) than the amp/channel is designed for (8ohms) is a sure-fire way to damage the amp via overpowering and overheating. You'll definitely see a bump in output if you do it, but I don't think anyone knows IF there are any long-term negative impacts.

[whiped]

Generally running less impedance (4ohms) than the amp/channel is designed for (8ohms) is a sure-fire way to damage the amp via overpowering and overheating. You'll definitely see a bump in output if you do it, but I don't think anyone knows IF there are any long-term negative impacts.

Yup, at your own risk. Going on a little over a month now and no issues. Granted I rarely have my music higher than 25.

I know of a few who have been running a 4 ohm sub for a while now, also no issues.

If I blow it up I guess it is time for an upgrade. [wrench]

[Dragoncub]

Just an FYI for those with the pioneer sub, use a single VC and wire it at 4 ohms.

Made a pretty big difference and the stock sub can still power it without issues.

In laymen terms, hook the sub up to a single side and leave the other side disconnected. (You might need to swap the polarity)


Anyone else running this config?

So you are sayig running one voice coil @4 ohms sounds better than 8ohm?

As some of you, I was disappointed with the output when I upgraded the sub, I noticed a very little difference compared to stock. As per whiped's suggestion, I wired the sub to 4 ohms and that really made a noticeable difference. I've been running it like this for about a week and it may hold me off from adding a new amp for awhile. Again, I don't know the long term effect on the amp by running the sub at 4 ohms but the bass can be heard better at lower volumes.

Btw, does anyone know how many watts the stock amp sends to the sub? I measure the volts and calculated about 12 watts. Is that correct? Seems very low (I'm pretty sure I did something wrong).

[Poodini]

^^
Ditto that Dragonclub! I too reconfigured the wiring to run off 4 ohms vs splitting it to 8. Definitely could hear a fuller base but still not quite what I had expected. I'm strongly considering an amp, nothing crazy but adequate enough to get the most out of the sub and deepen that low end even more.
Any/all suggestions welcomed!
[emoji111]🏼️


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[Audi 4 Life]

Arent their 2 non b&o systems the symphony bring middle and audi concert being the lowest line?



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[eightamrock]

As some of you, I was disappointed with the output when I upgraded the sub, I noticed a very little difference compared to stock. As per whiped's suggestion, I wired the sub to 4 ohms and that really made a noticeable difference. I've been running it like this for about a week and it may hold me off from adding a new amp for awhile. Again, I don't know the long term effect on the amp by running the sub at 4 ohms but the bass can be heard better at lower volumes.

Btw, does anyone know how many watts the stock amp sends to the sub? I measure the volts and calculated about 12 watts. Is that correct? Seems very low (I'm pretty sure I did something wrong).

Heat is what kills electronics. Stick your hand on the amp after 15-30 minutes of bass thumping music. If it's hot to the touch, so hot you can't leave your hand on it, then you are definitely doing damage.

There is no way to know how long the components will take to fail and slightly above normal operating temperatures, but they will fail eventually.

You should run at the proper impedance and within 60% of your wattage rating. Pumping too few watts could damage the system too. IE don't use a 100w speaker on a 13w amp. Should use at least a 60w amp on that size speaker.


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[b6onboost]

Just get a small 2 ohm mono amplifier. Plenty of quality options for $100-150. Kicker, Alpine, etc. Wire the sub for a 2ohm load. Enjoy. When you give that aftermarket sub some decent, clean, power...its a huge improvement in bass.


I'm strongly considering an amp, nothing crazy but adequate enough to get the most out of the sub and deepen that low end even more.

Any/all suggestions welcomed!

[Poodini]

Just get a small 2 ohm mono amplifier. Plenty of quality options for $100-150. Kicker, Alpine, etc. Wire the sub for a 2ohm load. Enjoy. When you give that aftermarket sub some decent, clean, power...its a huge improvement in bass.

Thanks BBoost! So should I stick with a 2 ohm or go up to 4 ohm? Not well versed in speaker wiring so if I get one, simply connect it to the remaining (+/-) terminal on the opposing side of the sub correct?


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[doug97gxe]

Thanks BBoost! So should I stick with a 2 ohm or go up to 4 ohm? Not well versed in speaker wiring so if I get one, simply connect it to the remaining (+/-) terminal on the opposing side of the sub correct?


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Depends on the load the amplifier can handle 1 ohm or 2 ohm ..

Depends if the speaker is single voice coil or dual voice coil .. google wiring diagrams for which of each u have


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[Poodini]

Depends on the load the amplifier can handle 1 ohm or 2 ohm ..

Depends if the speaker is single voice coil or dual voice coil .. google wiring diagrams for which of each u have


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Thanks man! I'll def check it out!
THE Pioneer sub sounds a lot fuller/deeper once I switched back to OE wiring. The amp should take it to the next level without sacrificing the overall quality and ruchness of sound B&O pride themselves on.


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[Audi 4 Life]

So has anyone confirmed this works well with non B&O system??????

My car has Audi symphony system and aux adatoer which I use to stream higher kbps music off my phonepj's which helps sound s little but I would really like to put this sub in.

I had hard time even finding tis exact model for sale it wasnt in stock anywhere



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[doug97gxe]

So has anyone confirmed this works well with non B&O system??????

My car has Audi symphony system and aux adatoer which I use to stream higher kbps music off my phonepj's which helps sound s little but I would really like to put this sub in.

I had hard time even finding tis exact model for sale it wasnt in stock anywhere



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if your car has speaker wires it can work.. if your car has a factory sub.. even better

[Audi 4 Life]

Yeah sympohony systems have subs im guessing its audi concert cars that are the ones that do not come with subs

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[doug97gxe]

Yeah sympohony systems have subs im guessing its audi concert cars that are the ones that do not come with subs

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Concert has a sub


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[Audi 4 Life]

So i was reading through this thread because i found one of these subs on ebay and submitted an offer so i think i might do this... i do not know much about sound systems i am confused if our stock sub is running at 2 ohms why would you wire the sub to 8ohms? Why not just wire it to 2 ohms isnt less ohms better?

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[doug97gxe]

So i was reading through this thread because i found one of these subs on ebay and submitted an offer so i think i might do this... i do not know much about sound systems i am confused if our stock sub is running at 2 ohms why would you wire the sub to 8ohms? Why not just wire it to 2 ohms isnt less ohms better?

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Stock sub and amplifier is 8ohms if you want to use a sub that's not 8ohms u will need a LOC and another amp


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[jdfelda]

so if i have the audi concert without the B&O stereo, can i install this sub in the place of my stock one? is it just plug and play, replacing the old one?

[Audi 4 Life]

Stock sub and amplifier is 8ohms if you want to use a sub that's not 8ohms u will need a LOC and another amp


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Then why did multiple people say its 2ohms earlier in this thread. 8 ohms seems pretty high for a oem system.

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[doug97gxe]

Then why did multiple people say its 2ohms earlier in this thread. 8 ohms seems pretty high for a oem system.

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Check the 14th post


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[Audi-6ix]

I think I'm going to go ahead with this. I have a 2013 Audi A5 with B&0 (face lift) and I want to power the Pioneer TS-W261D4 with a mono block amp. This is my first time doing an audio set up so to make things easier I'm looking for an amp that will turns itself on and off when it detects signal from the speaker level inputs. This way I will not have to deal with remote wiring. Can anyone recommend an amp with this feature that will work well with this sub?

I looked into a few amps to go with the Pioneer and came across the Kenwood X501-1 and Rockford R500X1D (Both are about $100 USD). I don't think either of these have the auto on and off feature that I previously mentioned. How hard would it be for someone like me who has no experience to be able to do remote wiring - all the pictures here seem to be for the pre facelift.

[Audi 4 Life]

The non-B&O "sub" is 2 ohms (I use the word "sub" loosely because I think its actually just the same speaker used as door woofers [facepalm])...

But that Pioneer TS-W260D4 sub has two 4ohm voice coils.... so it can be made to operate at 2 ohms if the coils are wired in parallel. I assume the OP wired the two coils in series to make it 8ohms. So why do you say you need a speaker-level tap into an external amp to run this sub? Because of the wattage?
Still confused dude said it was 2 ohms^^^


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[doug97gxe]

Still confused dude said it was 2 ohms^^^


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https://snapguide.com/guides/audi-a4a5-bang-olufsen-subwoofer-upgrade/


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[ILVTRANCE]

For the non B & O P+ I do plan on moving the sub and amp to the driver side compartment.

I followed these instructions from here http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/bang-olufsen-b-o-subwoofer-amplifier-add-diy-2822346/

wiring guide since im non B & O http://audiowiringdiagram.com/car/tag/b8/ this was used to see the non b&o speaker wiring.

http://www.vulpinemission.com/IMG_20161119_153603665.jpg

http://www.vulpinemission.com/IMG_20161119_153716479.jpg

http://www.vulpinemission.com/IMG_20161119_154432577.jpg

[ranchos]

Still confused dude said it was 2 ohms^^^


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Regular amp is optimized for 2 ohms. B&O amp is optimized for 8.

[Audi 4 Life]

So since i have the syphony system should i wire the sub in parallel for 2 ohms?

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[14S4GWM]

So since i have the syphony system should i wire the sub in parallel for 2 ohms?

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Like this
http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

[Poodini]

I have the B&O and am currently running the Pioneer sub. Even after reconfiguring the wiring to only use 1 VC, it's still sorely in need of more low end. Seems like a cost effective fix is to add a small, 750-1100w mono amp to drive the sub.
Was thinking something like this:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/lp/pla-monoblock-amplifiers/r1100m?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&affiliate=googpla&scid=scplp4566458&sc_intid=73716&adtype=pla&lsft=adtype:pla&gclid=CNnF59fiwNACFUhufgodLGsB9w

As far as installing, can anyone point out a DIY or shoot me a basic step by step to install?

[emoji111]🏼️



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[doug97gxe]

I have the B&O and am currently running the Pioneer sub. Even after reconfiguring the wiring to only use 1 VC, it's still sorely in need of more low end. Seems like a cost effective fix is to add a small, 750-1100w mono amp to drive the sub.
Was thinking something like this:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/lp/pla-monoblock-amplifiers/r1100m?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&affiliate=googpla&scid=scplp4566458&sc_intid=73716&adtype=pla&lsft=adtype:pla&gclid=CNnF59fiwNACFUhufgodLGsB9w

As far as installing, can anyone point out a DIY or shoot me a basic step by step to install?

[emoji111]🏼️



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Get Amp
Get LOC (lc2i I recommend I've tried 3)
Get Sub
Get 4 gauge Amp Kit

I've done 10+ personal stereo install.. this was by far the easiest the whole job was quicker than it took me to run new door wires in my 350z

On to install

- Find suitable ground and connect ground wire from Amp kit(tape off open end)

- Connect power wire to battery.. tape off open end

- Connect remote wire to front fuse box red rows and run wire to trunk or use relay in trunk .. if you have a B8 a red row of fuses will be in the trunk.. no so much for the B8.5

- Remove rear deck .. dynamat the rear deck then disconnect stock sub.. fish the sub connection to the trunk.. physically look in the trunk that you see it.. rear assemble rear deck

- Connect power ground and remote to Amp and LOC .. check they are not turning on.. turn the car on see if they are turning on .. if it's on when the car is off your remote wire is using a non switched source .. if they don't come on at all then ur remote source or ground is incorrect .. a volt meter helps always have one handy

- If everything powers on as expected then turn the car off .. tap in the sub wire you dropped and connect it to the LOC then connect the rca from the LOC to the sub and you should be done


This is a top of head write up if you have more questions on certain things let me know I find you screen shots and explain in depth

Plan your whole install on paper so I know how many connections and fuse blocks etc u need .. amazon is great one stop shop for everything .. http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Power-Wire-c44.htm also has good parts and also http://www.parts-express.com/cat/electronic-parts/10

Since you're splitting power ground and remote with the Amp and LOC distribution blocks are a nice clean way to do your install and you can mount them all to the box

Fuses.. if your fuse with your amp kit is smaller than your amp needs buy spare fuses as well .. Amp kits are a great start but you might need additional things

Ideas

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/eb4b9ef898ae776a95f5ae82bc8c14a7.png

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/1d745a90863d376952ba7c62e829a8b5.png

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/dfd0e9bf4e9adda4610d4d7e65686ea3.png

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/a2aed197a1dcb45ebc76301baf5792ac.png


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[Poodini]

^^
Thanks Doug for the "top of the head" blueprint! The Sub is already installed and running so I just need to install the amp once it arrives in order to give it some much needed juice! I'll pm you once I've assembled the necessary gear but I would think this should be a snap for you!

stats; The amp is an 1100w peak @ 2 ohm/ 550w peak @ 4 ohm mono.

Enjoy your [emoji884] day!
[emoji1598]


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[doug97gxe]

^^
Thanks Doug for the "top of the head" blueprint! The Sub is already installed and running so I just need to install the amp once it arrives in order to give it some much needed juice! I'll pm you once I've assembled the necessary gear but I would think should be a snap for you!
Enjoy your [emoji884] day!
[emoji1598]


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Sounds good enjoy your day and happy thanksgiving if that's your thing


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[14S4GWM]

^^
Thanks Doug for the "top of the head" blueprint! The Sub is already installed and running so I just need to install the amp once it arrives in order to give it some much needed juice! I'll pm you once I've assembled the necessary gear but I would think this should be a snap for you!

stats; The amp is an 1100w peak @ 2 ohm/ 550w peak @ 4 ohm mono.

Enjoy your [emoji884] day!
[emoji1598]


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Don't pay attention to peak numbers. RMS is the one to compare.

[Poodini]

Don't pay attention to peak numbers. RMS is the one to compare.

Ok..

So, is the amp i just purchased suitable enough for this Pioneer sub upgrade?

BOSS Audio R1100M RIOT Series 1100W Mosfet Power Monoblock Amplifier:

Maximum Power Output: 1100W
250W RMS output
Remote subwoofer level control



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[Audi 4 Life]

Yes the specs are fine just make sure its wired for 4 ohms if your using the Pioneer sub. I cant comment on the quality of BOSS cuz I am not familar with them so youll have to decide if your happy with it once installed.

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[14S4GWM]

Boss is a very low grade amp. Should work for you though. Power is probably a lot lower then advertised.

[Poodini]

^^
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm not looking to blow the roof off the car. I just want to get the low end/bass more in line with the rest of the B&O sound overall. I'm hoping this'll be more than enough to do that.


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[doug97gxe]

^^
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm not looking to blow the roof off the car. I just want to get the low end/bass more in line with the rest of the B&O sound overall. I'm hoping this'll be more than enough to do that.


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When he said low grade amp it's more clean watts vs dirty watts .. one of the things to compare when selecting an amp is distortion

Amp A and Amp B might be rated for 250 watts RMS but distortion may occur when one reaches 250 watts vs the other

However at 250 watts you shouldn't really see much of an issue vs let's say 1000 watt amps


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