Bang & Olufsen Subwoofer Upgrade B&O

[Poodini]

^^ great info and good to know! I went with it simply because the consensus here has been that a relatively inexpensive 2 ohm mono amp would be more than sufficient for this Pioneer sub. I just happened to be looking through my AMEX rewards and they actually had this available! Cashed in my rewards chips so couldn't pass it up!
Free is free


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[doug97gxe]

Free is great.. also I haven't personally researched the amp so I can't even say it's a bad amp but I've had amps that didn't have great distortion ratings I bought off Fordham road and they worked fine for my setup at the time so I'm sure you will be fine


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[Poodini]

Appreciate that Doug. I'll hit u back once it arrives for the tutorial [emoji1]


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[James cole]

Guys coming back to the pioneer sub replacement only... does it hit harder than the oem b&o or will the overall volume of the sub be lower when doing this straight swap?

[Poodini]

Bump


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[ranchos]

Guys coming back to the pioneer sub replacement only... does it hit harder than the oem b&o or will the overall volume of the sub be lower when doing this straight swap?

The Pioneer puts out a decent amount more bass on the stock B&O amp. I would describe it as the way it SHOULD sound as a premium factory system. You won't win any competitions, but you can annoy the car next to you. What's more important is the roll off - the Pioneer gets way deeper than the oem and doesn't sound distorted. Makes a huge difference in the tonal quality of your sound.

[0000_S5]

The Pioneer puts out a decent amount more bass on the stock B&O amp. I would describe it as the way it SHOULD sound as a premium factory system. You won't win any competitions, but you can annoy the car next to you. What's more important is the roll off - the Pioneer gets way deeper than the oem and doesn't sound distorted. Makes a huge difference in the tonal quality of your sound.

Very helpful for those of us not interested in installing a new amp and dealing with all the headache and effort that comes with such a project. Thanks!!


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[Poodini]

Very helpful for those of us not interested in installing a new amp and dealing with all the headache and effort that comes with such a project. Thanks!!


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Well, I've installed the Pioneer unit to try and deepen the bass with the B&O system and my results seem to echo several others here with a caveat. Though the overall sound is as crisp as ever, as far as the low end is concerned, the gains I was anticipating of hearing never quite made it. Yes, sound clarity is as good as stock. The bass improvement I found to be nominal at best. I've tried switching the polarities, going from splitting and using both VCs back to connected to a single VC. That did help but only slightly.
My wife has a '16 Subaru Outback with their Harmon Kardon premium sound. B&O shld blow it out of the water with the Pioneer sub right?..NOT EVEN CLOSE! Is HK's overall sound quality better, hell nah! In terms of low end though, it's like they switched places..
I'll be putting in a 2 channel mono amp per the suggestions made here to get it right hopefully.


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[0000_S5]

Well, I've installed the Pioneer unit to try and deepen the bass with the B&O system and my results seem to echo several others here with a caveat. Though the overall sound is as crisp as ever, as far as the low end is concerned, the gains I was anticipating of hearing never quite made it. Yes, sound clarity is as good as stock. The bass improvement I found to be nominal at best. I've tried switching the polarities, going from splitting and using both VCs back to connected to a single VC. That did help but only slightly.
My wife has a '16 Subaru Outback with their Harmon Kardon premium sound. B&O shld blow it out of the water with the Pioneer sub right?..NOT EVEN CLOSE! Is HK's overall sound quality better, hell nah! In terms of low end though, it's like they switched places..
I'll be putting in a 2 channel mono amp per the suggestions made here to get it right hopefully.


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Good to know. Is it possible to replace the stock amp with an aftermarket amp in the stock location and leverage the existing power and speaker wiring?


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[James cole]

Well I have an Audi S3 with B&O and our sub is different, its dvc 8 ohm... do you guys know of a sub that could be driven with that specs?

Thanks!

[ranchos]

Good to know. Is it possible to replace the stock amp with an aftermarket amp in the stock location and leverage the existing power and speaker wiring?


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Don't think so. The B&O amp is getting a fiber optic signal directly from the head unit.

[enraa]

Hi, does anyone know where I can find a 12V signal that turns on/off with the radio??

My car is 2009 A4 with B&O.

[Fox Fader]

The Pioneer puts out a decent amount more bass on the stock B&O amp. I would describe it as the way it SHOULD sound as a premium factory system. You won't win any competitions, but you can annoy the car next to you. What's more important is the roll off - the Pioneer gets way deeper than the oem and doesn't sound distorted. Makes a huge difference in the tonal quality of your sound.

What's the new Pioneer number for this sub? At work, no time to go over the whole thread. I at least would like to get close to the bang my Mustang's Shaker 1000 puts out.

Thanks.

[Poodini]

What's the new Pioneer number for this sub? At work, no time to go over the whole thread. I at least would like to get close to the bang my Mustang's Shaker 1000 puts out.

Thanks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/391403990076


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[doug97gxe]

Hi, does anyone know where I can find a 12V signal that turns on/off with the radio??

My car is 2009 A4 with B&O.

Look in the trunk on the passenger side .. you have a B8 so you should have a red row of fuses those are on when the car is on


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[trma]

adding an amp is easy. 1/10. the battery is in the trunk. that is what makes adding an amp "difficult" in other cars. wire it up. take the easy way out and just crimp wires. TBH takes 20 minutes to do it. if you want to hide wires etc will take a little longer. there are so many diy about adding amps just google. pics make it so simple.

[0000_S5]

Don't think so. The B&O amp is getting a fiber optic signal directly from the head unit.

Ok, thanks for the input. I need to get in there and scope it all out.


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[ProductNoel]

Ok fellas help me out I have the B&O package in my 2013 S5. Should I do this DYI swap wth the pioneer or the JL? Pros/cons? My other option in buying a additional amp and getting a JL 10" sub to handle the lows. I just got the car so trying to make the right move. Thanks for the help.


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[enraa]

Look in the trunk on the passenger side .. you have a B8 so you should have a red row of fuses those are on when the car is on


Yes but they turn on only when ignition is turned on. I need a 12V source which turns on when any activity happens; opening any door, turning radio on etc. I can clearly hear relays making noise in the trunk and coolant pump going on when door is opened, so there must be a 12V wire which comes "alive".. Unless it's all CAN based.

12V which turns on with ignition would work for me if I used it only for subwoofer amp, but I will use that same wire for kufatec A2DP bluetooth (really annoying that bluetooth is out when I stop the engine because radio is still on until you take the keys out) and Airlift autopilot (no keys needed anymore if I like to change height while the car is parked).

If anyone knows which wire would be a solution for me please help. [headbang]

[doug97gxe]

Ok fellas help me out I have the B&O package in my 2013 S5. Should I do this DYI swap wth the pioneer or the JL? Pros/cons? My other option in buying a additional amp and getting a JL 10" sub to handle the lows. I just got the car so trying to make the right move. Thanks for the help.


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Your question is very vague it's like asking if I should get an Audi for winter .. JL has various models that have various performance outputs and personally to me JL Audio is like buying a 40k optioned Maxima vs 40k S4 much better options for the same price range


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[doug97gxe]

Yes but they turn on only when ignition is turned on. I need a 12V source which turns on when any activity happens; opening any door, turning radio on etc. I can clearly hear relays making noise in the trunk and coolant pump going on when door is opened, so there must be a 12V wire which comes "alive".. Unless it's all CAN based.

12V which turns on with ignition would work for me if I used it only for subwoofer amp, but I will use that same wire for kufatec A2DP bluetooth (really annoying that bluetooth is out when I stop the engine because radio is still on until you take the keys out) and Airlift autopilot (no keys needed anymore if I like to change height while the car is parked).

If anyone knows which wire would be a solution for me please help. [headbang]

You will have to check the owners manual to see what fuse selection performs what you're trying to mimic similar behavior then tap into that one


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[VNA4]

Hello everyone
I have the B&O package and am experiencing vibration on the driver side door, to be more precise from under the hand rest/window button to that little compartment.
Is it worth taking it to an audio shop or could it be an easy fix?

Thanks


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[ranchos]

Hello everyone
I have the B&O package and am experiencing vibration on the driver side door, to be more precise from under the hand rest/window button to that little compartment.
Is it worth taking it to an audio shop or could it be an easy fix?

Thanks


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I've isolated vibrations in half my doors. Look on amazon for vibration dampening or isolation: rubber discs and sheets. You need to partially pop the door panel off and shove these around the areas where the plastic clips connect to the sheet metal. Those are where the rattles mostly come from. You could also fully pop the panel and dynamat while you're at it.

[Fox Fader]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/391403990076


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Thanks.

[Ioann]

Hi, everyone.
I have A4 B8.5 with a stock Audi sound system with sub. Can't stand that crappy bass anymore. What sub and external amplifier would fit the best in your opinion? Assuming it is a free-air install.
I mostly listen to the electronic music and was very confused choosing between Pioneer, Kicker, Jl and etc. Just need a quality sub. Thank you!

[sriyegna]

Can anyone confirm if http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3m-sound-reduction-mat-0477913p.html would be a good sound deadening material for this DIY? Based on the description, it seems like it would be. Its actually slightly cheaper for me to get enough of this than Dynamat.

[Poodini]

Can anyone confirm if http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3m-sound-reduction-mat-0477913p.html would be a good sound deadening material for this DIY? Based on the description, it seems like it would be. Its actually slightly cheaper for me to get enough of this than Dynamat.

You should be fine. Just be mindful of the sheet thickness. Key areas like around the sub should have a generous amount SS


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[paulxxwall]

Hey guys Mecp certified here ! 12v for over 18 years in south Florida. And lumar certified window tinter for about 12 years and have installed music in just about ever car under the sun all applications ( still kinda work on the side) dozens of free air set up,sq and spl! Co designed the bass tube! So yeah when it came to that hood beat down they always came to me so if you guys have any questions I'll gladly help out!


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[paulxxwall]

Sound dead material are almost all the same! Hushmatt,dynamatt, and ballistic by Metra were almost all the same! So so look for high adherence and use a roller and your should be good just don't put to much or panels won't snap back on right.


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[paulxxwall]

Authorized in arc audio, mmats pro audio, jl Audio, kicker...


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[sriyegna]

You should be fine. Just be mindful of the sheet thickness. Key areas like around the sub should have a generous amount SS


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Cheers! Is SS sound deadening material? Looks to be just about half a cm of thickness which is on par with whats needed!


Sound dead material are almost all the same! Hushmatt,dynamatt, and ballistic by Metra were almost all the same! So so look for high adherence and use a roller and your should be good just don't put to much or panels won't snap back on right.


Thanks Paul!

[Audi 4 Life]

Sound deadening material is not all the same. Many brands have different thicknesses. Also there are different types of deadener. CLD constraint layer deadener which is the typical sticky stuff you see in rolls with a foil backing. And MLV which is mass loaded vinyl. Each of them have their own purpose.

CLD is a vibration dampener and
And MLV blocks the road noise the CLD cannot handle. There is also a 3rd type of material used as a coating to kill noise and vibrations which is applied as a type of sludge the coatings are rarely used but are actually massively more effective than MLV or CLD. But the best outcome will come from using all 3.

But more importantly each application is different not all cars need the same thing it all depends on your sound system, exhaust what type of mods you have that have affected cabin noise and vibrations. And it's not about how much you use its about what and where you use it.

You can achieve decent results by using some of the cheaper lines like hush mat and I do not recommend dynamat as its way overpriced and your just paying for a name. Second skin is really good but again not cheap. There are many other really good lines out there you can get that are really bang for your buck.

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[A4 Centaur]

^Like the stuff I bought from Home Depot.

[voohoo]

Hi guys, I'm hoping someone can help me out with choosing a replacement subwoofer!
Right now there are 3 different subs that I'm looking at.

1. Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10-Inch Shallow-Mount Subwoofer (https://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-TS-SW2502S4-10-Inch-Shallow-Mount-Subwoofer/dp/B0054REBYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483721031&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+shallow+10)

2. Jl Audio 10tw3-d4 Shallow-mount (https://www.amazon.com/Jl-Audio-10tw3-d4-Shallow-mount-10/dp/B00EJWSLBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1483720331&sr=1-1&keywords=jl+audio+subwoofer)

3. Pioneer TSW261D4 10-Inch Champion/DUAL4 OHM/1200W/40 Equalizer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8B7CBW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1M2AR6046TFJG)

Sub #1 is my first choice due to the shallow mount and the price. However, it only has a single voice coil at 4 ohms. Would I be able to wire this sub in a way to make it compatible with the Audi's existing 8 ohm system?

Sub #2 is my second choice for the performance and shallow mount, although it's quite pricey. This one has 2 voice coils each at 4 ohm so I should be able to wire this one up fine, right? Also, will I need an enclosure for this sub? I realize some subs are "free-air" but I can't tell if this one is or not.

Sub #3 is my backup choice if the aforementioned shallow mount subs don't work. This sub looks to be the successor to the Pioneer in the OP of this thread.

Any help is appreciated! I'm familiar with home audio but not car audio -- the only tricky thing to me is the voice coil and ohm stuff.

[14S4GWM]

^ Just go with the one that has been mentioned in this thread, there is more than one reason it's used over and over.

This is your wiring you're going to achieve with this sub
http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_2ch.jpg

Read up here
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uDghuuIcNxx/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

[whiped]

I am running your #3 choice at 4 Ohms currently without issue. Stock amp seems to have no problem driving it.

I'd start with your #1 choice, if it doesn't work Amazon has a great return policy [up]

[Audi-6ix]

I just installed the following setup:
JBL Club 5501 amp - 550W @ 2 ohm
Alpine Type S SWS-10D4 - 500W @2ohm

The amplifier accepts high level inputs so I just disconnected the B&O subwoofer and have the wires from the factory amp running into the new amp

The issue I am having is the bass is not punchy enough. I have tried messing around with the gain, frequency and bass boost - have tried putting them to high levels and I just don't seem to be getting phenomenal bass. When I open the trunk I feel like i hear more bass then I do when I'm sitting in the car - I tried switching the phase but that made no difference to sound.

Can somebody tell me things I should try or point out if I did something wrong?

Other questions I had:
1. Since the head unit is communicating with the factory amplifier and I am using a high level input into the new amp, should I keep the bass on the head unit at full just so the entire signal is being sent to the new amplifier and set the gains afterwards?

2. Would using a LOC help? It does not sound like a 500W system atm I only feel the bass in my chest if i am against the seat and even then it's not hitting hard enough

[14S4GWM]

^ Is the sub mounted in a box or the rear deck?

[doug97gxe]

I just installed the following setup:
JBL Club 5501 amp - 550W @ 2 ohm
Alpine Type S SWS-10D4 - 500W @2ohm

The amplifier accepts high level inputs so I just disconnected the B&O subwoofer and have the wires from the factory amp running into the new amp

The issue I am having is the bass is not punchy enough. I have tried messing around with the gain, frequency and bass boost - have tried putting them to high levels and I just don't seem to be getting phenomenal bass. When I open the trunk I feel like i hear more bass then I do when I'm sitting in the car - I tried switching the phase but that made no difference to sound.

Can somebody tell me things I should try or point out if I did something wrong?

Other questions I had:
1. Since the head unit is communicating with the factory amplifier and I am using a high level input into the new amp, should I keep the bass on the head unit at full just so the entire signal is being sent to the new amplifier and set the gains afterwards?

2. Would using a LOC help? It does not sound like a 500W system atm I only feel the bass in my chest if i am against the seat and even then it's not hitting hard enough

check this thread for troubleshooting ideas http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/671418-Successfully-Disabled-ANC-on-B-amp-O-Amp-and-Subwoofer-Install-DIY

[Audi-6ix]

^ Is the sub mounted in a box or the rear deck?

The sun is mounted in a sealed box and is against the driver side rear seat facing the back of the car.

[Audi 4 Life]

Are there any better subs than this pioneer that is recommended for those of us who are willing to spend more than 60$ on a a sub woofer?

I have been looking for awhile now and haven't found much of anything.

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[14S4GWM]

Are there any better subs than this pioneer that is recommended for those of us who are willing to spend more than 60$ on a a sub woofer?

I have been looking for awhile now and haven't found much of anything.

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Not if you want to mount it in the deck.

[Spacemonkey]

I tried the deck and was never satisfied with it. I think money is better well spent just getting an enclosure in the back.


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[doug97gxe]

For $60 I'm surprised there is a sub option that works .. I know subs that cost $1000 .. shoot I have $700 worth subs in my closet and the one in my car was $450


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[voohoo]

Are there any better subs than this pioneer that is recommended for those of us who are willing to spend more than 60$ on a a sub woofer?

I have been looking for awhile now and haven't found much of anything.

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I came across this JL shallow mount sub (https://www.amazon.com/Jl-Audio-10tw3-d4-Shallow-mount-10/dp/B00EJWSLBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1483720331&sr=1-1&keywords=jl+audio+subwoofer). I bet a regular non-shallow mount JL sub would sound even better!

[Marko S]

I have an audio frog 10" in a box in the drivers side compartment in the trunk.

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[doug97gxe]

Are there any better subs than this pioneer that is recommended for those of us who are willing to spend more than 60$ on a a sub woofer?

I have been looking for awhile now and haven't found much of anything.

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Morel Ultimo SC is prob your best option I know of


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[Audi 4 Life]

While that morel is a great sub it's only 87 decibels and with a rms of 600watts I doubt my symphony amp would even phase it. Seems like it's not even worth it.

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[ranchos]

I'd be all for a nicer sub, but I really love the seamless and simple install of the Pioneer with existing components. And I think when you're getting into higher end components like that you're going to want to put your sub in a box, and get a cleaner amp, and then start swapping other speakers around the car. So for $60 I turned my $800 B&O system into what it should sound like from the factory.

[doug97gxe]

While that morel is a great sub it's only 87 decibels and with a rms of 600watts I doubt my symphony amp would even phase it. Seems like it's not even worth it.

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What about the image dynamics IDQ?


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[Audi 4 Life]

Yea I think I'm gonna go with the pioneer that is if I don't end up selling my car I might have to since I'm trying to buy a house but I am doing my best it hang on to it Cuz I have so much work to it its not worth selling I would loose out on all the OCd detailed work I put into that 90% of people don't take the time to do.

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[asfastas63]

While that morel is a great sub it's only 87 decibels and with a rms of 600watts I doubt my symphony amp would even phase it. Seems like it's not even worth it.

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Don't bother unless you're going to run an amp from the start. I didn't think my pioneer was working at all until I added one. The whole project was definitely worth it with the amp though, it sounds great.

[Audi 4 Life]

I think if anything for people upgrading to the pioneer sub this would be the best option because it has the same sensitivity of 93 decibels and has 100 watts less rms of 250 rms vs the other sub recommended in this thread of 350 watts rms. That seems like it might make a little bit of a difference requiring nearly 1/3 less power with the same sensitivity rating.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/280847068885

Thoughts?

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[Spawne32]

I have a Non B&O system in mine, symphony system, speakers appear to be exactly the same almost but amps i guess have different ratings? Been trying to figure out a replacement for the rear sub without going all out and putting in an aftermarket amp. Putting these in tomorrow to replace the front doors, passenger side blew out an OEM one. Pretty basic JBL Stage 600C kit, should be direct replacements with ridiculously bigger voice coils. Always loved JBL's stuff so looking forward to seeing how these sound.

http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/8747c643e324124f9ff15d20f07325ec.jpg
http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/ca02ad6eb7d3ca34a982b8e66b8ef222.jpg

[Spawne32]

Well, this kinda put a damper on installing these, apparently the OEM speakers are more like 7 3/4" according to the tape measure, the 6.5" falls right through the middle of the housing once you remove the OEM woofer cone. Either need to figure out a way to adapt this or find an adapter to buy.

Anyone have any recommendations here?

http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/6f7af9d924bd65f87b70df40270959b6.jpg

[Audi 4 Life]

Yeah you take it to a stereo install shop and pay to have custom mounts made because if you don't know what to do you likely don't have the skills to do it.

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[Spawne32]

Yeah you take it to a stereo install shop and pay to have custom mounts made because if you don't know what to do you likely don't have the skills to do it.

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Well I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations as far as getting it to work without much effort or if there is a different speaker I should be using.

[1zach4]

Well I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations as far as getting it to work without much effort or if there is a different speaker I should be using.

I used to be an installer in my younger years. You need to make or have an adapter made, typically out of plastic or MDF (if using MDF be sure to give it a few coats of fiberglass resin for weatherproofing)

[Spawne32]

I used to be an installer in my younger years. You need to make or have an adapter made, typically out of plastic or MDF (if using MDF be sure to give it a few coats of fiberglass resin for weatherproofing)

Yeh figuring that is probably the route im going to go, looking at custom wood cutouts to fill in this housing. Figuring 3/8" thickness and fill it right up to the edge 7.5" diameter. With that in mind though, no sense in using 6.5" speakers up front when I can fit something a bit larger. Dayton sells some 7" woofers that could fit within this housing that would probably be a slight bit larger then the JBL 6.5" cones. I just however have absolutely no specifications on the symphony amplifier and what the channels are rated for RMS.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs180-4-7-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-374

[doug97gxe]

Yeh figuring that is probably the route im going to go, looking at custom wood cutouts to fill in this housing. Figuring 3/8" thickness and fill it right up to the edge 7.5" diameter. With that in mind though, no sense in using 6.5" speakers up front when I can fit something a bit larger. Dayton sells some 7" woofers that could fit within this housing that would probably be a slight bit larger then the JBL 6.5" cones. I just however have absolutely no specifications on the symphony amplifier and what the channels are rated for RMS.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs180-4-7-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-374

What about this

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4968_Scosche-SAC656.html


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[Audi 4 Life]

Your gonna need a new quality 4 channel amp like a precision power sun down or something equivelent dont go mainstream you can get way better for cheaper than paying for a main stream name youll need good power to get any decent quality out of those speakers or some bigger 7" woofers

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[b6onboost]

Better sound comes from more power and speakers designed to handle it cleanly. There's little point to swapping in better speakers (or a sub) without giving them more power. Without more power what you'll find is that the speakers sound crisper, but will lack volume and bass. With the sub it will sound clearer and deeper, but won't be louder.

[Spawne32]

Your gonna need a new quality 4 channel amp like a precision power sun down or something equivelent dont go mainstream you can get way better for cheaper than paying for a main stream name youll need good power to get any decent quality out of those speakers or some bigger 7" woofers

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Better sound comes from more power and speakers designed to handle it cleanly. There's little point to swapping in better speakers (or a sub) without giving them more power. Without more power what you'll find is that the speakers sound crisper, but will lack volume and bass. With the sub it will sound clearer and deeper, but won't be louder.

Im understanding to that, but I don't feel like rewiring alot inside the car for that. My biggest question is how much power do the factory amps have RMS per channel. Very vague information, most ive been able to find is that the amp total output is 140watts overall.

[Spacemonkey]

I have extra adapters for 6.5s and 8s that fit B8s and B8.5s if interested.


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[b6onboost]

From my understanding:

Audi 10-speaker Concert audio system uses a 6 channel amp with 180w peak
- Front doors 40w (~8" woofers)
- Rear doors 20w (~6.5" woofers)
- Dash 20w (~3")
- Sub 40w (8")

All 2ohm I believe. The wattage values are peak. RMS is probably about 1/2 the peak value. It's not a lot of power, but the factory speakers are very efficient.


My biggest question is how much power do the factory amps have RMS per channel. Very vague information, most ive been able to find is that the amp total output is 140watts overall.

[Spawne32]

From my understanding:

Audi 10-speaker Concert audio system uses a 6 channel amp with 180w peak
- Front doors 40w (~8" woofers)
- Rear doors 20w (~6.5" woofers)
- Dash 20w (~3")
- Sub 40w (8")

All 2ohm I believe. The wattage values are peak. RMS is probably about 1/2 the peak value. It's not a lot of power, but the factory speakers are very efficient.

On the B&O system you are speaking of I am assuming, not the rest of the lineup.

[b6onboost]

I was not talking about B&O, just the base system (concert, symphony, whatever they call it).

Base Sound System: 6 channel amplifier, 10 speakers 180 total watts

B&O Sound System: 10 channel amplifier 14 speakers 505 total watts

[Spawne32]

I was not talking about B&O, just the base system (concert, symphony, whatever they call it).

Base Sound System: 6 channel amplifier, 10 speakers 180 total watts

B&O Sound System: 10 channel amplifier 14 speakers 505 total watts

Ah gotcha, that makes this a bit more workable as now I can size the speakers appropriately to match.

[A4x]

From my understanding:

Audi 10-speaker Concert audio system uses a 6 channel amp with 180w peak
- Front doors 40w (~8" woofers)
- Rear doors 20w (~6.5" woofers)
- Dash 20w (~3")
- Sub 40w (8")

All 2ohm I believe. The wattage values are peak. RMS is probably about 1/2 the peak value. It's not a lot of power, but the factory speakers are very efficient.

I have the 10 speaker Concert system. From my research (mostly on here), the amp is 180W at about 30W per channel. I thought these are RMS values, but not sure. All the speakers are 4 Ohm, I'm sure. The front door+dash tweeter run off the same channel, in parallel. Same with rear door+tweeter in the door. The sub in the back and front center speaker are on their own channel.

I've replaced everything anyway and added a 1600 W amp!!! used stock wiring....No issues after 6 months. Sounds fantastic and powerful.

[b6onboost]

What I meant was each amp channel is operating at 2 ohms. If you have two 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel on a channel that's a 2 ohm load.


All the speakers are 4 Ohm, I'm sure. The front door+dash tweeter run off the same channel, in parallel. Same with rear door+tweeter in the door. The sub in the back and front center speaker are on their own channel.

[audinutt]

Well, this kinda put a damper on installing these, apparently the OEM speakers are more like 7 3/4" according to the tape measure, the 6.5" falls right through the middle of the housing once you remove the OEM woofer cone. Either need to figure out a way to adapt this or find an adapter to buy.

Anyone have any recommendations here?

http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/6f7af9d924bd65f87b70df40270959b6.jpg
Get some Masonite from home depot and make your own adapters. Use a scroll saw or jig saw and spend some time making your own adapters

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[A4x]

What I meant was each amp channel is operating at 2 ohms. If you have two 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel on a channel that's a 2 ohm load.

Not when the 2 speakers in parallel play different frequencies. The door woofer plays ~50-5000 Hz while the tweeter is crossed over to play 5000 Hz and up. so the amp effectively feels a 4 Ohm load.

[Spacemonkey]

I have the 10 speaker Concert system. From my research (mostly on here), the amp is 180W at about 30W per channel. I thought these are RMS values, but not sure. All the speakers are 4 Ohm, I'm sure. The front door+dash tweeter run off the same channel, in parallel. Same with rear door+tweeter in the door. The sub in the back and front center speaker are on their own channel.

I've replaced everything anyway and added a 1600 W amp!!! used stock wiring....No issues after 6 months. Sounds fantastic and powerful.

Are you using the PG 1600.5?


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[Audi 4 Life]

So if the concert and B&O amps and speakers are different what's the symphony system specifications.... anyone know??

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[A4 Centaur]

Get some Masonite from home depot and make your own adapters. Use a scroll saw or jig saw and spend some time making your own adapters

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http://www.speaker-installation-photos.com/AudiSpeakerInstallations/A4/A4-3/44296599_Dh9h6t#!i=3532033356&k=63B4wWd

- - - Updated - - -


Well, this kinda put a damper on installing these, apparently the OEM speakers are more like 7 3/4" according to the tape measure, the 6.5" falls right through the middle of the housing once you remove the OEM woofer cone. Either need to figure out a way to adapt this or find an adapter to buy.

Anyone have any recommendations here?

http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/6f7af9d924bd65f87b70df40270959b6.jpg

http://www.speaker-installation-photos.com/AudiSpeakerInstallations/A4/A4-3/44296599_Dh9h6t#!i=3532033356&k=63B4wWd

http://car-speaker-adapters.com/

[doug97gxe]

So if the concert and B&O amps and speakers are different what's the symphony system specifications.... anyone know??

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My radio says concert and I have B&O


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[Audi 4 Life]

Weird cuz I have Audi symphony and and I don't have B&O but I have do have a sub and a amp so I am just curious what specifications the amp is running.

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[ranchos]

Concert and Symphony are the same amp and speakers - it just refers to single disc or multi-disc CD changer. You can have B&O with either. The non B&O has 5 less speakers: tweeters in the door sails, center speaker in the middle of the dash, and surround speakers on the rear deck.

If you go the full MMI with B&O you get the B&O DSP (for changing focus of the soundstage and adding surround sound effects).

[Spacemonkey]

Concert and Symphony are the same amp and speakers - it just refers to single disc or multi-disc CD changer. You can have B&O with either. The non B&O has 5 less speakers: tweeters in the door sails, center speaker in the middle of the dash, and surround speakers on the rear deck.

If you go the full MMI with B&O you get the B&O DSP (for changing focus of the soundstage and adding surround sound effects).

I have MMI without B&O and have DSP.


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[ranchos]

I have MMI without B&O and have DSP.


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Huh. In my MMI it says DSP (Bang & Olufsen) so maybe it's got different software.

[Spacemonkey]

My bad. This is for a Q5.


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[Pyromatic177]

So I just did this upgrade in my S4. And it still isn't enough bass for me. So I'm wondering how much power can you feed the sub before things start to rattle? I was thinking of a small amp like 150watts...

[sriyegna]

Hey, I'm a bit confused on the wiring. If I use the Pioneer speaker T-W261D4 what is my wiring supposed to look like? When I splice the factory harness, how many cables are there? Which goes to which :S.

I remember looking at this install a few months ago and found a diagram, but I can't find that thread anymore. Any help?

Edit : I found it : http://www.a5oc.com/forums/audi-a5-s5-tech/94345-audi-b-o-subwoofer.html

[BASARAB]

Maybe you guys can help me out. I got a S8 with B & O and would like to do a subwoofer upgrade. Found this about my system
More than 1000 W is made available for the Audi Advanced Sound System on demand by two amplifiers. The high-performance amplifier has four channels of 125 W each for the four woofers and one 250 W amplifier for the subwoofer. The second amplifier (DSP) is responsible for signal processing and, with nine output stages of 35 Watts each, for energising the surround speakers and tweeters.
Would that Pioneer sub everyone is installing, be a good fit for me also?
34260
34261

[b6onboost]

150-200w RMS is all you need.

I have a 300w amp, gain below 1/2, and I can make it rattle even though I sound deadened everything possible. It all depends on the song and frequency. Some bass notes rattle, some don't. Even with this limitation, bass is still many times better with the aftermarket amp, and only rattles at high levels.


I'm wondering how much power can you feed the sub before things start to rattle? I was thinking of a small amp like 150watts...

[Game]

Ahh exactly what I needed! Can't believe how poor the bass is on the B&O system. Hopefully I can do this in a 5.

[Game]

Sound gurus, would you mind helping me out? I'm an audio noob so bare with me.

I have an older 10" JL 10W1v2-4 sub laying around and figured this would be a perfect place to use it. Info on the sub:

10" 4-ohm subwoofer
metallic-finish polypropylene cone with nitrile-butylene rubber surround
power range: 50-300 watts RMS
peak power handling: 600 watts
frequency response: 25-250 Hz
sensitivity: 84.53 dB
top-mount depth: 4-7/16

I assume I can throw this into the top deck of my S5 after seeing this thread:
http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/

So my main question is, would this sub work with the stock B&O amp? Or would I have to upgrade the amp? Any other info would be appreciated as well.

[Poodini]

So I just did this upgrade in my S4. And it still isn't enough bass for me. So I'm wondering how much power can you feed the sub before things start to rattle? I was thinking of a small amp like 150watts...

You need a dedicated mono block amp to run your sub. Initially when I did the upgrade, I simply swapped out the subs. The factory B&O amp was not enough to run the whole system. The sub was underperforming and easily distorted.
In addition, did you install an LOC? This is essential for running your factory deck with the new components. Once these 2 missing pieces were added, BOOM! Crisp, clean lower end with that thump you'ld expect from a larger sub.


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[doug97gxe]

You need a dedicated mono block amp to run your sub. Initially when I did the upgrade, I simply swapped out the subs. The factory B&O amp was not enough to run the whole system. The sub was underperforming and easily distorted.
In addition, did you install an LOC? This is essential for running your factory deck with the new components. Once these 2 missing pieces were added, BOOM! Crisp, clean lower end with that thump you'ld expect from a larger sub.


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The student has become the master


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[ranchos]

Sound gurus, would you mind helping me out? I'm an audio noob so bare with me.

I have an older 10" JL 10W1v2-4 sub laying around and figured this would be a perfect place to use it. Info on the sub:

10" 4-ohm subwoofer
metallic-finish polypropylene cone with nitrile-butylene rubber surround
power range: 50-300 watts RMS
peak power handling: 600 watts
frequency response: 25-250 Hz
sensitivity: 84.53 dB
top-mount depth: 4-7/16

I assume I can throw this into the top deck of my S5 after seeing this thread:
http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/

So my main question is, would this sub work with the stock B&O amp? Or would I have to upgrade the amp? Any other info would be appreciated as well.

That might not be a good match, it's a little less sensitive and I don't know if it suitable for free air installation. Plus it's 4ohms and B&O is balanced for 8. But you could certainly try. For $60 you could just get the Pioneer and it will work great as a plug-and-play.

[Poodini]

The student has become the master


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I learned from the best! [emoji57]

WADDUP Dougie Fresh!! Your tutelage was invaluable. So much cleaner, richer sound with actual latitude to adjust settings without distorting out right away![emoji1360]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170323/65802a45f3f43777d13e528f389be5d4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170323/3f165ea3922a9166d6735df9f174fa85.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170323/26913cbd05c5793fcb99d89b3cbc51e0.jpg

Cleaned up nicely and no unsightly box taking up half the trunk!


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[doug97gxe]

I learned from the best! [emoji57]

WADDUP Dougie Fresh!! Your tutelage was invaluable. So much cleaner, richer sound with actual latitude to adjust settings without distorting out right away![emoji1360]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170323/65802a45f3f43777d13e528f389be5d4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170323/3f165ea3922a9166d6735df9f174fa85.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170323/26913cbd05c5793fcb99d89b3cbc51e0.jpg

Cleaned up nicely and no unsightly box taking up half the trunk!


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Nice and clean I love it .. nice that everything worked out for you


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[A4x]

So I have the concert system.

I've replaced all the speakers and added a 10" sub enclosure in the trunk, 600W dedicated sub amp + 1600 W amp running to all 4 doors. I used to have my sub enclosure running off of the stock sub speaker level wires, and it sounded good (lots of bass).

Now I installed a Bit Ten processor, and for the signal I fed the Bit Ten with all 4 doors as inputs. I output from the Bit Ten to the subwoofer enclosure and it just doesnt sound the same as when I used to have the sub running from the stock sub speaker wires.

Now I suspect the 4 doors are getting a high passed signal which is what my Bit Ten and Subwoofer are getting now. WHen I used to have my subwoofer connected to the stock rear deck sub speaker wires, it sounded better.

Anyone have some advice? Are the 4 doors getting a high passed signal (maybe around 60 Hz) in the stock concert system? And the rear deck is getting a full signal, or at least 20-60Hz?

[B8_Dude97]

To anyone's who might know the answer to this

I'm interested in running a upgraded open air sub in the rear deck and a closed enclosure sub in the left compartment (basset enclosure) with a loc and a dual channel amp dedicated for these two subs

Anyone know how this would sound as I'm hoping the this setup will be the best of both worlds with two 10" subs
I don't want rattle I just want crazy thump when needed


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[Poodini]

To anyone's who might know the answer to this

I'm interested in running a upgraded open air sub in the rear deck and a closed enclosure sub in the left compartment (basset enclosure) with a loc and a dual channel amp dedicated for these two subs

Anyone know how this would sound as I'm hoping the this setup will be the best of both worlds with two 10" subs
I don't want rattle I just want crazy thump when needed


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TBH, the one 10" sub when paired with the LOC and a good 2 channel amp will yield plenty of 'thump' on its own. Personally, I think a 2nd open air sub might be a bit overkill. All depends on your goals. If you're wanting to blow some windows type bass, pop that open air sub in. If you're wanting a cleaner, more defined bass, one closed box will do. Talk to your local car stereo spot and test some out.
Better yet, start off with one sub, see how you like it and go from there.
Just my 2 cents..
Let us know how it pans out for you.
🤙🏼


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[A4x]

I don't think it is a good idea to run 2 subs in different locations. You will get phasing issues. As said above, one sub is plenty.

[b6onboost]

There's no point in upgrading both.

I've ran both setups in different A4s. One a JL 10 in a sealed left side trunk enclosure powered by a 375w RMS amp. The other a Kicker 10 in the deck powered by a 300w RMS amp. They sound different but both get the job done. The sealed box setup handles more power, plays cleaner, and thumps/hits harder without rattle. The deck mount sounds great, but its limitation is power handling. You really can't push much more than 150rms without rattling, which is still plenty loud in a free-air setup, but clearly some people will crave more bass.

[B8_Dude97]

TBH, the one 10" sub when paired with the LOC and a good 2 channel amp will yield plenty of 'thump' on its own. Personally, I think a 2nd open air sub might be a bit overkill. All depends on your goals. If you're wanting to blow some windows type bass, pop that open air sub in. If you're wanting a cleaner, more defined bass, one closed box will do. Talk to your local car stereo spot and test some out.
Better yet, start off with one sub, see how you like it and go from there.
Just my 2 cents..
Let us know how it pans out for you.
🤙🏼


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I think I'll go with what ur saying there and start with one and add another to see if I like it
I'm in the middle as I want the clean bass but occasionally want to blow some windows and make the next car feel it.

I might just get a 2 channel and if I only use one sub I can just bridge it to the one sub correct?


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[Poodini]

I think I'll go with what ur saying there and start with one and add another to see if I like it
I'm in the middle as I want the clean bass but occasionally want to blow some windows and make the next car feel it.

I might just get a 2 channel and if I only use one sub I can just bridge it to the one sub correct?


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Yessir! The B&O amp just isn't suited to handle the additional load of that 10" sub which is why it sounded so underaspirated. Just didn't have enough juice behind it to really feel/hear true low end bass.
I think you'll be pleasantly surprised once you get one sub installed. Done right, it fills up the whole cabin of the car nicely and definitely bumps when you want it to! Thought the Pioneer sub is a great bang-4-your-buck unit, I'm sure a little research will yield a comparable 10" that's probably got better numbers across the board. Sure, it'll cost more but would be worth it vs setting up a second unit, occupy more space, require more juice,..you get the picture.

[doug97gxe]

I think I'll go with what ur saying there and start with one and add another to see if I like it
I'm in the middle as I want the clean bass but occasionally want to blow some windows and make the next car feel it.

I might just get a 2 channel and if I only use one sub I can just bridge it to the one sub correct?


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It's all in ur sub choice not size or quantity


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[WishfulThinking]

So I have the concert system.

I've replaced all the speakers and added a 10" sub enclosure in the trunk, 600W dedicated sub amp + 1600 W amp running to all 4 doors. I used to have my sub enclosure running off of the stock sub speaker level wires, and it sounded good (lots of bass).

Now I installed a Bit Ten processor, and for the signal I fed the Bit Ten with all 4 doors as inputs. I output from the Bit Ten to the subwoofer enclosure and it just doesnt sound the same as when I used to have the sub running from the stock sub speaker wires.

Now I suspect the 4 doors are getting a high passed signal which is what my Bit Ten and Subwoofer are getting now. WHen I used to have my subwoofer connected to the stock rear deck sub speaker wires, it sounded better.

Anyone have some advice? Are the 4 doors getting a high passed signal (maybe around 60 Hz) in the stock concert system? And the rear deck is getting a full signal, or at least 20-60Hz?

The four doors speakers are high passed, hence you don't get good bass if you're feeding your sub amp with the door speaker inputs.
The rear deck (subwoofer) speaker wires are low-passed.

What you're experience is a shortcoming of the Bit Ten. It has inputs for the four speakers, but not for the sub, so you are missing out on low freq inputs that are only available on the stock sub wires. Audison has incorrectly assumed that you'll get full range inputs on those four speakers.

Fortunately, your stock Concert amplifier has easy access to the low-level (a.k.a. line-level or pre-out or pre-amp output) signals which are full range. Cut the wires on the 32 pin harness of the stock amp in the trunk and hook them up to your Bit Ten. The other benefit of this approach is that you're completely omitting the crappy stock amplifier from signal quality that's feeding your system.

I obtained the following info by pulling out the concert head unit and reading the pin out that's listed on the top of it. I've have these signals driving my JL Audio Cleansweep (similar to the Bit Ten).

Pre-amp line-level signals (Concert/Symphony systems only):

RR- green/yellow
RR+ white/yellow
RF- brown/grey
RF+ red/grey
LF- white/blk
LF+ green/blk
LR- white/blue
LR+ green/blue

[Spawne32]

From my understanding:

Audi 10-speaker Concert audio system uses a 6 channel amp with 180w peak
- Front doors 40w (~8" woofers)
- Rear doors 20w (~6.5" woofers)
- Dash 20w (~3")
- Sub 40w (8")

All 2ohm I believe. The wattage values are peak. RMS is probably about 1/2 the peak value. It's not a lot of power, but the factory speakers are very efficient.

I wanted to touch back on this because my rear deck speaker is starting to make the snap crackle pop of a blown speaker under certain musical conditions. I don't feel like going through the rigmarole of putting in an amp and other accessories, I would just like to replace the existing speaker with something. If I go for a 10" speaker, 4+4 or 2ohm, is the low RMS watts of that channel going to be an issue? Because it seems to be pretty difficult to find a 10" subwoofer under 100 watts RMS.

looking at this to replace with, just unsure of the wattage, sensitivity and frequency range compared to the stock symphony deck speaker.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ls10-44-10-low-profile-subwoofer-dual-4-ohm--295-251

[b6onboost]

Its difficult to find something that will fit and sound good.

The oem deck hole is less than 9.0in. This means most 10in subs will NOT just drop in and bolt up. You need a sub with a small cutout diameter (like 9, 9 1/8th, etc.) and even then will need to use a 1/2in spacer to lift the sub. Most low-depth subs will not fit at all. They tend to have wide baskets that don't taper. Wattage isn't really an issue. You don't need much power handling at all. Any sub will play at low wattage. What's important is high sensitivity and a 2ohm load so the sub makes the best use of the factory amp's measly power.


If I go for a 10" speaker, 4+4 or 2ohm, is the low RMS watts of that channel going to be an issue? Because it seems to be pretty difficult to find a 10" subwoofer under 100 watts RMS.

looking at this to replace with, just unsure of the wattage, sensitivity and frequency range compared to the stock symphony deck speaker.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ls10-44-10-low-profile-subwoofer-dual-4-ohm--295-251

[Spawne32]

Its difficult to find something that will fit and sound good.

The oem deck hole is less than 9.0in. This means most 10in subs will NOT just drop in and bolt up. You need a sub with a small cutout diameter (like 9, 9 1/8th, etc.) and even then will need to use a 1/2in spacer to lift the sub. Most low-depth subs will not fit at all. They tend to have wide baskets that don't taper. Wattage isn't really an issue. You don't need much power handling at all. Any sub will play at low wattage. What's important is high sensitivity and a 2ohm load so the sub makes the best use of the factory amp's measly power.

How much clearance do we typically have to raise the sub. I don't mind doing that, perhaps this would be paired up a little better to the lower RMS watts of the system compared to the dayton? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777M210DVC/Sound-Ordnance-M2-10DVC.html?tp=68872

I was looking at possibly running a BOSS Audio R1002 Riot 200 Watt 2 channel amp to run just a sub, cheap enough at 21 bucks and ive used boss audio before, not terrible quality for people who are on a budget, if I understand it correctly it would bump the power up to 100 watts, but not sure that its actually needed.

[b6onboost]

1/2in or so.

IMO a Kicker is a solid choice. Its what I went with after about as much research as you can do. They're inexpensive, free-air compatible, will fit with a small spacer, and aren't overly deep. The only thing is you won't get much improvement with the stock amp. I ran my Kicker off the stock amp for a while and the volume level was similar to stock, it was just deeper and didn't distort at all. Really minor upgrade. Amplify it though, with a small 150-200w amp, and its like 5x better than stock.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CWCD104/Kicker-44CWCD104.html?tp=68872

[fmzip]

1/2in or so.

IMO a Kicker is a solid choice. Its what I went with after about as much research as you can do. They're inexpensive, free-air compatible, will fit with a small spacer, and aren't overly deep. The only thing is you won't get much improvement with the stock amp. I ran my Kicker off the stock amp for a while and the volume level was similar to stock, it was just deeper and didn't distort at all. Really minor upgrade. Amplify it though, with a small 150-200w amp, and its like 5x better than stock.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CWCD104/Kicker-44CWCD104.html?tp=68872

I went with Audison Speakers and a Pioneer subwoofer, all install details here:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/759815-The-definitive-stereo-and-subwoofer-upgrade-thread/page4

[Spawne32]

1/2in or so.

IMO a Kicker is a solid choice. Its what I went with after about as much research as you can do. They're inexpensive, free-air compatible, will fit with a small spacer, and aren't overly deep. The only thing is you won't get much improvement with the stock amp. I ran my Kicker off the stock amp for a while and the volume level was similar to stock, it was just deeper and didn't distort at all. Really minor upgrade. Amplify it though, with a small 150-200w amp, and its like 5x better than stock.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CWCD104/Kicker-44CWCD104.html?tp=68872

Me and my buddy tested your estimates on the wattage and you are right, about 20 watts RMS was as high as we saw. Very disappointing.

[paulxxwall]

Get rid of factory sub and drop in a pair of twelves and run line output converter and be done with it. And you won’t need a high end processor to flat out low frequency if you have the Audi concert. Not sure about the Bose . I tested the out put frequency and it went down to as low as 28hz! That’s lowwww! But remember to remove the factory sub as the bass in the trunk will push through the opening.
My set up jl 500/1
2 12” old school kicker solobarics inverted
It hits hard.....maybe to hard.


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[doug97gxe]

Get rid of factory sub and drop in a pair of twelves and run line output converter and be done with it. And you won’t need a high end processor to flat out low frequency if you have the Audi concert. Not sure about the Bose . I tested the out put frequency and it went down to as low as 28hz! That’s lowwww! But remember to remove the factory sub as the bass in the trunk will push through the opening.
My set up jl 500/1
2 12” old school kicker solobarics inverted
It hits hard.....maybe to hard.


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I will bet money my one 10” was louder and hit harder than your two 12’s.. you don’t need 12’s


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[collyrob]

Hey guys, I have an 09 a4 Quattro, recently my front two door speakers sound awful. I’m looking to replace them. However I’m clueless as where to start. Should I just replace them with the OEM speakers, or do you guys have any suggestions or recommendations for the two front ones.


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[CardFan]

Hey guys, I have an 09 a4 Quattro, recently my front two door speakers sound awful. I’m looking to replace them. However I’m clueless as where to start. Should I just replace them with the OEM speakers, or do you guys have any suggestions or recommendations for the two front ones.


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If you’re interested in upgrading, check out what fmzip has been doing in this thread (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/759815-The-definitive-stereo-and-subwoofer-upgrade-thread/page6).

[scecchitano25]

So, I just installed the Pioneer TS-W261D4 which is Dual Voice coil. Should I run this in series to get 8ohm or parallel to get 2ohm? Right now I have it hooked up to just one of the voice coils and it already sounds WAYYYY better. I'm just confused on which OHM I should be trying to achieve with the stock B&O amp....

[b6onboost]

^ Stock B&O amp is an 8ohm sub channel. You should wire the DVCs in series for 8ohm. If you're only hooked up to 1 4ohm VC, it may sound better, but you may end up harming the B&O amp.

[whiped]

I've ran mine at 4ohm for over a year without any issues...

Figured if I blow it up I'll put a proper amp in.

Not encouraging it, just providing more info :)

[fmzip]

So, I just installed the Pioneer TS-W261D4 which is Dual Voice coil. Should I run this in series to get 8ohm or parallel to get 2ohm? Right now I have it hooked up to just one of the voice coils and it already sounds WAYYYY better. I'm just confused on which OHM I should be trying to achieve with the stock B&O amp....

Connect it like this (8 ohms)

http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub9.JPG

[scecchitano25]

Ok, just connected it in series for 8ohm. Thanks guys, sounds great. Really happy with this $53 upgrade. B&O really sounds sweet now!!!

[fmzip]

Ok, just connected it in series for 8ohm. Thanks guys, sounds great. Really happy with this $53 upgrade. B&O really sounds sweet now!!!

Glad to be of help.

You want the vocals to sound way better too....swap the 3" dash speakers with Audison Voce.

[kayroccs]

Me and my buddy tested your estimates on the wattage and you are right, about 20 watts RMS was as high as we saw. Very disappointing.
I'm in the same boat as you. What speaker did you eventually go with?

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[eljefe1981]

So just to be clear, there is no shallow depth sub that would fit in the stock B&O sub hole?

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[eljefe1981]

Just finished the install of the pioneer sub. At 8 ohm I did not notice too big of a difference, so I put it at 4 ohm and that did the difference. The only thing now is that I'm on the look out for the amp to go. But if I'm not mistaking, doesn't the stock amp have thermal protection? I remember when I had the 2009 A4 and it was hot as balls the amp shut down and I had to wait for it to cool down. And that system was not the B&O. Can anyone collaborate on this?

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[eljefe1981]

What do you guys think? 67119

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[fmzip]

What do you guys think? 67119

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looks good to me....they will work but they will be cheap plastic I am sure

[Blitzzer]

FMZIP is exactly correct on how to properly wire a DVC woofer to raise the impedance to 8ohms. I have 4 JL-12W6V3-D4 DVC woofers mounted in 4 1.75' cu ft solo ported "ProBox" enclosures in my house which I run mono through a car audio electronic crossover connected to a trickle charger and powered by 2 Sony home receivers that are used only for the subs.. and everybody on my entire block certainly doesn't like that setup anywhere near as much as I do. Lol. But my question is.. why why is everybody running W1s instead of the W6s? Is it the price or simply for the shallow depth? Until reading this thread I always thought woofer fired downward toward the floor of the trunk and not upward toward the back panel.. which is why I lose bass when the trunk is fully loaded. I guess I'll have to take a closer look when I get home tonight. But if firing upward.. would not the trunk itself suffice for the enclosure?

@eljefe1981 - I have not seen an amp without a thermal cutoff switch since the early 90s. It's not simply for impedance.. but also for safety reasons so that should somebody pile a bunch of luggage or whatever on their amp it wont start a fire, for example.

*Edit - Missed the page where the somebody had pics of the woofer mounted upward using the trunk as the enclosure.. but still why not go with the 10W6V3-D4 instead?

**Edit - Also, does anybody know if the stock amp has a built in low pass crossover.. and if so, what the frequency is?

Thanks.

[eljefe1981]

looks good to me....they will work but they will be cheap plastic I am sure
You're right, but you can always glue something to it to make it more dense.

[eljefe1981]

FMZIP is exactly correct on how to properly wire a DVC woofer to raise the impedance to 8ohms. I have 4 JL-12W6V3-D4 DVC woofers mounted in 4 1.75' cu ft solo ported "ProBox" enclosures in my house which I run mono through a car audio electronic crossover connected to a trickle charger and powered by 2 Sony home receivers that are used only for the subs.. and everybody on my entire block certainly doesn't like that setup anywhere near as much as I do. Lol. But my question is.. why why is everybody running W1s instead of the W6s? Is it the price or simply for the shallow depth? Until reading this thread I always thought woofer fired downward toward the floor of the trunk and not upward toward the back panel.. which is why I lose bass when the trunk is fully loaded. I guess I'll have to take a closer look when I get home tonight. But if firing upward.. would not the trunk itself suffice for the enclosure?

@eljefe1981 - I have not seen an amp without a thermal cutoff switch since the early 90s. It's not simply for impedance.. but also for safety reasons so that should somebody pile a bunch of luggage or whatever on their amp it wont start a fire, for example.

*Edit - Missed the page where the somebody had pics of the woofer mounted upward using the trunk as the enclosure.. but still why not go with the 10W6V3-D4 instead?

**Edit - Also, does anybody know if the stock amp has a built in low pass crossover.. and if so, what the frequency is?

Thanks.
Thank you for the input.

[fmzip]

You're right, but you can always glue something to it to make it more dense.

If you are going to glue something to it, why not just make something out of MDF in the first place?

[eljefe1981]

If you are going to glue something to it, why not just make something out of MDF in the first place?
True, the thought is to make it easier. It's just an option for people.

Galaxy S9

[fmzip]

True, the thought is to make it easier. It's just an option for people.

Galaxy S9

Totally agree, it's easier. Just thought you were asking for input

[Spawne32]

Does anyone know what the opening diameter is for the rear deck subwoofer?

[jimrobbington]

It fits a 10" woofer

Edit. Just realized this isA4 section, but I assume it's the same as S4

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[eljefe1981]

It fits a 10" woofer

Edit. Just realized this isA4 section, but I assume it's the same as S4

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Yes it is

Galaxy S9

[Tom Sawyer]

Once again, props to the OP and AZ community for a great mod write-up! Just ordered a new TS-W261D4 for $53 shipped + some 80mil GTMat. Hopefully everything will arrive before the weekend so I can get my B&O up to par bass wise.

[Tom Sawyer]

... and as many have said, what a great difference in low end and SQ. Had to spread the install over two days, just too hot but took my time, got the dynamat (well GTMat 8mil actually, great stuff and price) installed nicely. Had to fabricate an MDF riser ring for the Pioneer, but was well worth the effort. Bit of trimming on the deck cover and left speaker grill, and everything went back together nicely. The Fork method for extracting the clips on the C-Pillars was brilliant.

Next up, Audison AV 3's for the dash and maybe the rear deck as well.

[fmzip]

... and as many have said, what a great difference in low end and SQ. Had to spread the install over two days, just too hot but took my time, got the dynamat (well GTMat 8mil actually, great stuff and price) installed nicely. Had to fabricate an MDF riser ring for the Pioneer, but was well worth the effort. Bit of trimming on the deck cover and left speaker grill, and everything went back together nicely. The Fork method for extracting the clips on the C-Pillars was brilliant.

Next up, Audison AV 3's for the dash and maybe the rear deck as well.

Great job, glad you like it!

[MRobinsonPCA]

First post- hi guys I’ve had my 2013 A4 Prestige S-Line package car for. Week now, enjoying it!

I’ve been following these threads on the subwoofer upgrade for B&O systems, though I desire a shallow mount subs as I fully utilize my trunk space. I feel an efficient 8” sub (with an adapter plate it appears) might be a good solution to explore- less depth and might give some decent mid-bass too. Has anyone try this?

Mark

[MRobinsonPCA]

crickets? :/

[Shaldon Govende]

Hi Doug

Your reply has solved all my problems.

But I am new to this, so much so, that I wont know what Red row fuses are or where to connect my remote wite to in the red row fuses.

I do have a 2013 Audi A4 B8 3.0 TDI Quattro S-Tronic with B&O system in it.

Il appreciate your help.

Thanks
Shaldon Govender

[doug97gxe]

Hi Doug

Your reply has solved all my problems.

But I am new to this, so much so, that I wont know what Red row fuses are or where to connect my remote wite to in the red row fuses.

I do have a 2013 Audi A4 B8 3.0 TDI Quattro S-Tronic with B&O system in it.

Il appreciate your help.

Thanks
Shaldon Govender

Hey Shaldon .. can you take a pic of your fuses in your trunk please .. should be by the wheel well on the right hand side behind the carpeted panel


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[pickle.rs]

For those of us looking to do this in 2020, is the Pioneer TS-W261D4 still top choice? I can't seem to find these anywhere, must be discontinued. Anyone know of an equivalent replacement these days?

[GermanAuto]

Bumping this question ^^^^

[Fresh.S4]

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/759815-The-definitive-stereo-and-subwoofer-upgrade-thread?p=14554000&viewfull=1#post14554000

everything you need guys.