4.2L V8 Swapped B5 A4

[bhusted]

So, I'm new to this forum and cannot post in the builds/projects section. Anyway, I've had my Audi for a couple of years now and just decided to swap in a V8 last month. Overall, I'm happy with the result, but have some questions for the experts around here on a couple of issues.

Without further adieu, here's my car:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/2012-05-26_12-27-11_730.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/2012-05-26_12-27-11_730.jpg.html)

The 4.2L V8 came from a wrecked A6 that I bought for $650.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/3Fe3L13H95L85Hc5J2d5s602a3c6a371912e0_zpsed883504. jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/3Fe3L13H95L85Hc5J2d5s602a3c6a371912e0_zpsed883504. jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/3G73F23N15N25Ld5F8d5seb5721667132131e_zps3bf1c220. jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/3G73F23N15N25Ld5F8d5seb5721667132131e_zps3bf1c220. jpg.html)

The A6 had 156k on it. The guy I bought it from had taken the auto trans, which was fine with me because I didn't want the slush box anyway. I got right to work on pulling the engine so I knew what I was working with.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130618_113040_664_zps536c2714.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130618_113040_664_zps536c2714.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130618_113048_490_zps00fff836.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130618_113048_490_zps00fff836.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130618_113057_371_zpsf80ebfb9.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130618_113057_371_zpsf80ebfb9.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130618_192308_025_zps1882c826.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130618_192308_025_zps1882c826.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

Everything came out smoothly and I started diving in to potential issues in the motor. I had already turned it over by hand to ensure that the timing hadn't skipped and planned to do the timing service while it was out. The first issue was the variable intake flaps. These will commonly get stuck on these motors and of course mine were pretty well seized.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130619_075949_976_zps9bca44f6.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130619_075949_976_zps9bca44f6.jpg.html)

The valve cover gaskets were leaking and the engine was pretty dirty in general. I pulled the covers to inspect and replace the gaskets. At the same time, I found this:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130620_143657_233_zpsfda65357.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130620_143657_233_zpsfda65357.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130620_143711_243_zpsc4ec585c.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130620_143711_243_zpsc4ec585c.jpg.html)

I ordered some new tensioner pads and set to work removing the intake cams to get the tensioners out. Just for giggles I called the local VW/Audi dealer and they wanted $800 each for the tensioners. Of course they won't just sell you the pads. I had though that the inside of the 30 valve heads were impressive, but these were mind blowing!
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130625_120943_558_zpsef90df33.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130625_120943_558_zpsef90df33.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130625_122525_305_zpsa3473da2.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130625_122525_305_zpsa3473da2.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130625_131121_174_zpsd8ba681d.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130625_131121_174_zpsd8ba681d.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130626_135650_984_zpsfdc7ff09.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130626_135650_984_zpsfdc7ff09.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130625_124829_236_zpsce85a60a.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130625_124829_236_zpsce85a60a.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130625_124821_481_zps972b1c01.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130625_124821_481_zps972b1c01.jpg.html)

I'm glad I discovered this before doing the timing service, because the timing belt and cam sprocket must be removed from the driver's head to replace the tensioner. The old timing components were pretty crusty. I'm glad that I didn't try and run it.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130626_133902_322_zpsde4bcb8b.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130626_133902_322_zpsde4bcb8b.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130626_133908_588_zps4a9610cf.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130626_133908_588_zps4a9610cf.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130626_165801_615_zps8764c65d.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130626_165801_615_zps8764c65d.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130626_161107_012_zpsace90b4a.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130626_161107_012_zpsace90b4a.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

I got the heads buttoned up and timing finished. At the same time, I replaced the plastic coolant pipe in the oil cooler. These are known to crack and puke out coolant. There is a guy on Ebay that sells nice aluminum ones for ~$20.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130626_205540_001_zps227e8a14.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130626_205540_001_zps227e8a14.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130626_205531_924_zps40468586.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130626_205531_924_zps40468586.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130626_205521_273_zpsc765dad0.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130626_205521_273_zpsc765dad0.jpg.html)

Next on the list was removing the 2.8 from my A4.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130629_154429_906_zpse0b6d215.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130629_154429_906_zpse0b6d215.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130629_154457_737_zps8da43a91.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130629_154457_737_zps8da43a91.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130701_191152_432_zps9974999c.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130701_191152_432_zps9974999c.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130701_191205_190_zpsa0879f87.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130701_191205_190_zpsa0879f87.jpg.html)

The flywheel went out to be machined (I'm using the stock 30v dual mass flywheel). When the flywheel came back I could install a new South Bend Stage 1 clutch. Very streetable and rated for 340 ft-lbs.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130704_133555_797_zps56c2a349.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130704_133555_797_zps56c2a349.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130704_182017_271_zps6beba4f3.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130704_182017_271_zps6beba4f3.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130704_182050_164_zps547c7c2d.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130704_182050_164_zps547c7c2d.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130704_182028_141_zpsbfa0633b.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130704_182028_141_zpsbfa0633b.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130704_182118_529_zpsdf8d1944.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130704_182118_529_zpsdf8d1944.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

The next big issue to tackle was cooling the beast. I bought an all aluminum radiator from Ebay for a Mk-IV Golf and did some serious cutting to make it fit.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130709_093145_667_zps10de8ac0.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130709_093145_667_zps10de8ac0.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130709_094139_779_zps8671a996.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130709_094139_779_zps8671a996.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130710_211856_995_zps00313523.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130710_211856_995_zps00313523.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130710_211911_057_zps6ba71adb.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130710_211911_057_zps6ba71adb.jpg.html)

Tight fit with the timing covers up against the lock carrier.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130709_094236_186_zps04009093.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130709_094236_186_zps04009093.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130709_094242_275_zps7f18ffe0.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130709_094242_275_zps7f18ffe0.jpg.html)

Cooling is achieved by an 11" pusher on the front of the A/C condenser and the stock electric fan as a puller.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130716_141718_622_zpse042fe67.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130716_141718_622_zpse042fe67.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130715_112214_539_zps1e44c6f3.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130715_112214_539_zps1e44c6f3.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130716_141641_606_zps259639ed.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130716_141641_606_zps259639ed.jpg.html)

Minor clearancing of the bumper was required to fit the pusher.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130720_205513_105_zps7e3298b7.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130720_205513_105_zps7e3298b7.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130720_205524_661_zps095069a3.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130720_205524_661_zps095069a3.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130720_205441_765_zps82ffeb34.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130720_205441_765_zps82ffeb34.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130720_205603_647_zps1c77742a.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130720_205603_647_zps1c77742a.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130720_205503_169_zps2eeb916d.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130720_205503_169_zps2eeb916d.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130720_205450_713_zps283aae2c.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130720_205450_713_zps283aae2c.jpg.html)

[coolgraymemo]

I like this.

[bhusted]

With the hood shut, you'd never even know that it's there.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130714_084237_843_zps44a5e094.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130714_084237_843_zps44a5e094.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130719_130257_139_zps7e3ebeb7.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130719_130257_139_zps7e3ebeb7.jpg.html)

Since I had the whole parts car I also pulled off the aluminum front uprights, control arms, and HP2 calipers. I also grabbed the rears, but needed to rebuild one of the calipers before I could install them.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130720_205541_498_zps39b5ef5e.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130720_205541_498_zps39b5ef5e.jpg.html)

The 2.8 downpipes do fit but hang down pretty low at the cats, so I did a little cutting and bending to tuck them up there better. I'll be on the lookout for some A6 downpipes to use instead, but for now, these will work. While I was at it, I cut out the middle resonator and added a cross bar at the rear subframe mounts.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130723_095306_782_zpsed5c5061.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130723_095306_782_zpsed5c5061.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130723_161137_154_zpsb812c2f1.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130723_161137_154_zpsb812c2f1.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

I got tired of the nasty looking yellow on the tops of the coil packs, so I painted them all black. We'll see how long the paint holds up.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130731_105713_635_zps35c0c9d5.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130731_105713_635_zps35c0c9d5.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130731_105833_780_zps1c2568ae.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130731_105833_780_zps1c2568ae.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130802_103031_189_zps9c7855f7.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130802_103031_189_zps9c7855f7.jpg.html)

I was also getting some random misfire codes from a vacuum leak at the PCV. No more misfires!
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130802_103017_922_zpsf2d57cdc.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130802_103017_922_zpsf2d57cdc.jpg.html)

The brake calipers were getting rusty, so I got a G2 kit and went to town on them.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130807_155040_304_zps8e694943.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130807_155040_304_zps8e694943.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130807_194951_762_zps31afea0e.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130807_194951_762_zps31afea0e.jpg.html)

At the same time, I painted, rebuilt, and installed the rears.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130808_144606_213_zps811345a7.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130808_144606_213_zps811345a7.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130808_145902_004_zpse3470a99.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130808_145902_004_zpse3470a99.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130808_145909_245_zpsc3cc0ddb.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130808_145909_245_zpsc3cc0ddb.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130808_153324_942_zps9fd46f46.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130808_153324_942_zps9fd46f46.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130808_161604_344_zpsab8f571e.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130808_161604_344_zpsab8f571e.jpg.html)

[dowsett6]

nicely done. What coolant bottle is that? a stock 4.2 bottle?? and where does the bottom hose sit on them?

[bhusted]

Now for the current issues:

I've been trying to get a hold of someone at JHM to get my ECU flashed for the manual transmission. I've left multiple voice mails and emails, but have not heard back. Since the A6 was a 2000, the ECU uses ME7.1, on which I'm told I cannot use the popular S6 file. User "v8a6" had his ECU flashed by JHM and claims that it works great. Anybody know of anywhere else that can code the ECU for manual transmission?

I'm not sure if this is a issue from the automatic coding or not, but when the engine is at operating temp, it will sometimes idle around 1700 to 1800 rpm. I did some data logging today to try to illustrate the issue. You can see that the vehicle speed drops to zero, but the engine rpm and throttle seem to hesitate. You can see this even more in the second graph. Both times my foot was completely removed from the throttle pedal.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Log1_zpsb19d69ee.png (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Log1_zpsb19d69ee.png.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Log2_zps47c67ed5.png (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Log2_zps47c67ed5.png.html)

Any thoughts or suggestions on these issues would be greatly appreciated.

[FU5E]

That's sweet!

[bhusted]

nicely done. What coolant bottle is that? a stock 4.2 bottle?? and where does the bottom hose sit on them?

It is the stock 4.2 coolant tank. Both hoses that go to the coolant tank come off of the back left when viewed from the front of the car. I actually noticed that I need to order a replacement because this one is cracking and looks like it could blow at any time.

[revolution337]

That engine bay looks eerily familiar....

[csosnowski]

Was there something special you had to do with the subframe? I notice that you removed it with the 2.8 engine.

Big props on this project, I have hopes to stuff 4.2's in some b5 wagons if I can get the details worked out on the swap requirements.

[tinytim]

As you know I am in the middle of my B5 A4 4.2 swap also. I was told that if you dont code for manual you will experience everything you are describing. Mainly the high idle situation. Here is a link to the manual files... there is also some maf scaling and injector mapping changes associated with the manual trans file. They are also in that link.

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3308.msg33462#msg33462

A big issues is going to be your ME7.1 ecu... the ME7.1.1 is what you want, but that may require changing the whole engine harness.

[Mad Cow]

As you know I am in the middle of my B5 A4 4.2 swap also. I was told that if you dont code for manual you will experience everything you are describing. Mainly the high idle situation. Here is a link to the manual files... there is also some maf scaling and injector mapping changes associated with the manual trans file. They are also in that link.

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3308.msg33462#msg33462

A big issues is going to be your ME7.1 ecu... the ME7.1.1 is what you want, but that may require changing the whole engine harness.


An ME7.1.1 harness should be basically identical to an ME7.1. The only differences I can imagine would be the plenum box area (it uses a relay to power the coil packs and VVT solenoid) and potentially some connectors that may be different.

I though all C5's were ME7.1.1 though, don't ME7.1 cars use the older 5-pin coil packs?

[tinytim]

An ME7.1.1 harness should be basically identical to an ME7.1. The only differences I can imagine would be the plenum box area (it uses a relay to power the coil packs and VVT solenoid) and potentially some connectors that may be different.

I though all C5's were ME7.1.1 though, don't ME7.1 cars use the older 5-pin coil packs?

Not sure about the coil packs. I know I was highly advised to stay away from the me7.1 when doing this swap as it complicates things. Maybe you can just swap in a coded me7.1.1... but I'm not sure. I don't know if the ecu plugs are the same.

[TJN0923]

That's amazing. Great work!

[hallvardr]

Very cool!

[getslideways]

Love seeing people who are more motivated than myself, encourages me to start installing my ever growing pile of parts lol

Looking forward to some videos, or maybe I will have the pleasure of spotting you on the road one of these days!

[bhusted]

Nothing required to do to the subframe. I pulled the engine and transmission together and wanted to get the subframe cleaned up too. I think it made removal and installation easier.

So you think that the weird idle is being caused by the ECU coding? It only happens when the engine is up to temp.

I'm not sure about the "older 5-pin coils", but mine are pictured above and are 5-pin. I've contemplated swapping the engine harness and ECU for ME7.1.1, but that just seems like overkill to get this running right. I'm saving it as a last resort. Is there any sure fire way to find out what ECU it is?

According to user "v8a6" he was able to get JHM to set his ME7.1 ECU for the manual transmission.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/537076-C5-A6-4-2-6-speed-swap-begins!

If JHM can code the ME7.1 ECU for a manual, why can't everyone else? An even better question is why won't they return my call?

[Mad Cow]

Nothing required to do to the subframe. I pulled the engine and transmission together and wanted to get the subframe cleaned up too. I think it made removal and installation easier.

So you think that the weird idle is being caused by the ECU coding? It only happens when the engine is up to temp.

I'm not sure about the "older 5-pin coils", but mine are pictured above and are 5-pin. I've contemplated swapping the engine harness and ECU for ME7.1.1, but that just seems like overkill to get this running right. I'm saving it as a last resort. Is there any sure fire way to find out what ECU it is?

According to user "v8a6" he was able to get JHM to set his ME7.1 ECU for the manual transmission.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/537076-C5-A6-4-2-6-speed-swap-begins!

If JHM can code the ME7.1 ECU for a manual, why can't everyone else? An even better question is why won't they return my call?


Your coils look like they have 4 wires, the 5-pin coils would have the same type of connectors as AEB and B5 S4 coils. The best way to find out would be to check your ECU part number, it should even say ME7.1 or ME7.1.1 in small print somewhere on the label.

Even if you do have ME7.1 there shouldn't be anything stopping someone from modifying the correct .bin, it's probably just not openly available. I would ask Gonzo on nefmoto, he knows his stuff and would probably be able to help you.

[walky_talky20]

5-pin coils? To my knowledge there are only 3-pin (AEB/S4 with external igniter) and 4-pin (Hitachi or push-down with internal igniter).

[bhusted]

walky is right. The coils I have are the Hitachi 4 pin ones.

Here's a pic of the ECU. I don't see anything on it that overtly states ME7.1 or ME7.1.1. Is there a way to look it up from the other info on the label?
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130813_100854_030_zpsc43b4ec4.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130813_100854_030_zpsc43b4ec4.jpg.html)

[Mad Cow]

5-pin coils? To my knowledge there are only 3-pin (AEB/S4 with external igniter) and 4-pin (Hitachi or push-down with internal igniter).

Whoops, meant 3 pin. I knew it was an odd number beside 4 and picked the wrong one.

A quick google of that part number seems to say conclude that they only used it until '01 or '02, which would probably mean that it is indeed ME7.1. If you want to be 100% sure you'd have to open it up and read the number on the flash chip, if it's 29f400 or a variation then it's ME7.1, 29f800 and it's ME7.1.1. The difference is the 29f400 is only 512kb, while the latter is 1024.

[ddillenger]

558S is a 2000 a6 ME7.1 ecu. I can walk you through the wiring changes to convert to ME7.1.1, there are about 6 changes to do so, all relatively minor. That opens up the way to do the 559E 6 speed file I advise everyone to do.

Those are my files he linked, and I've done quite a few of these. Feel free to message me if you need anything [:)]

[bhusted]

So no need to open this sucker up and verify?

What wiring changes are required to go ME7.1.1? Do I need the entire engine harness, or can I modify my current harness? Do you know the part # for the ME7.1.1 ECU I would need?

[C41ST1]

looks awesome...

i just setup a thread few minutes ago.
:) i want 500 kw on my b5s... but without changing the engine.
any ideeas ... what to do on a 2.8 v6 30v beast to get 500 kw out of it ?

[ddillenger]

No need to open the ecu. It's DEFINITELY ME7.1

The ideal A6 ME7.1.1 ecu is 4D0907560AE. That's from a 2001 so it's a hybrid CAN-Bus ecu that can still accept non CAN signals as well. Do not get a 2002-up, as you'll have issues getting the ecu a VSS signal. As for the wiring changes, I can write something up. You use your harness with a few pinout changes. Nothing drastic. Biggest thing is adding a wire to pin21 and running a diode so the car shuts off with the key instead of staying running for a second or two after!

[melomandn]

No need to open the ecu. It's DEFINITELY ME7.1

The ideal A6 ME7.1.1 ecu is 4D0907560AE. That's from a 2001 so it's a hybrid CAN-Bus ecu that can still accept non CAN signals as well. Do not get a 2002-up, as you'll have issues getting the ecu a VSS signal. As for the wiring changes, I can write something up. You use your harness with a few pinout changes. Nothing drastic. Biggest thing is adding a wire to pin21 and running a diode so the car shuts off with the key instead of staying running for a second or two after!

You make me want to do a v8 swap just because of how helpful you are

[Saskwatch]

I can hardly stand reading these I want to do a 4.2 swap so bad.... Maybe a 1.8t part out soon.. lol

[bhusted]

No need to open the ecu. It's DEFINITELY ME7.1

The ideal A6 ME7.1.1 ecu is 4D0907560AE. That's from a 2001 so it's a hybrid CAN-Bus ecu that can still accept non CAN signals as well. Do not get a 2002-up, as you'll have issues getting the ecu a VSS signal. As for the wiring changes, I can write something up. You use your harness with a few pinout changes. Nothing drastic. Biggest thing is adding a wire to pin21 and running a diode so the car shuts off with the key instead of staying running for a second or two after!

Alright. I'll start searching for an ECU that someone doesn't want my first born child for. A writeup or description of the the wiring changes would be helpful if you have the time.

[nativefx]

So no need to open this sucker up and verify?

What wiring changes are required to go ME7.1.1? Do I need the entire engine harness, or can I modify my current harness? Do you know the part # for the ME7.1.1 ECU I would need?

ddillenger can help you with this. I have a 2000 A6 4.2 that I did a manual swap with and he was working on the tune after the re-wiring was completed. Unfortunately while doing this we noticed the timing was off and after pulling the valve covers we noticed the broken tensioner pads but not early enough so it's still being worked on by topball at the moment.

[nativefx]

Alright. I'll start searching for an ECU that someone doesn't want my first born child for. A writeup or description of the the wiring changes would be helpful if you have the time.

By the way, are you still running your A4's 5speed or did you convert to a 6speed 01E?

[tinytim]

Alright. I'll start searching for an ECU that someone doesn't want my first born child for. A writeup or description of the the wiring changes would be helpful if you have the time.

I got mine from a 2001 a6 4.2 for $100 on ebay.

[walky_talky20]

Maroney's (http://maroneysforeigncar.com/) has AWN ECU's (4D0-907-560AE) for $75.

[bhusted]

By the way, are you still running your A4's 5speed or did you convert to a 6speed 01E?

I'm running the 01A 5-speed. It drives great aside from the idle and over rev issues. I do wish that 5th gear was taller though. I've driven this about 3000 miles now and average 23mpg on the freeway at 70 mph.

I've located a junkyard nearby that may have an ECU for me. We'll see if the part # matches and how much $$$ they want.

[tinytim]

I'm running the 01A 5-speed. It drives great aside from the idle and over rev issues. I do wish that 5th gear was taller though. I've driven this about 3000 miles now and average 23mpg on the freeway at 70 mph.


23 mpg! So my v8 a4 will get better gas mileage then my c5 a6 2.7t... Nice!! I only get around 19 mpg with the 2.7t and I really don't drive it hard at all.

I can't wait to be part of the 4.2 A4 club!!! Hoping to be driving it by the end of this month.

[nativefx]

I'm running the 01A 5-speed. It drives great aside from the idle and over rev issues. I do wish that 5th gear was taller though. I've driven this about 3000 miles now and average 23mpg on the freeway at 70 mph.

I've located a junkyard nearby that may have an ECU for me. We'll see if the part # matches and how much $$$ they want.

I'm actually surprised at 23mpg as well and I was wondering how the 5speed gearing would match up as even with the 6speed in our A6, I wish I would have went with the TDI gearing as even that seemed like it would be better off being taller.

[bhusted]

23 mpg! So my v8 a4 will get better gas mileage then my c5 a6 2.7t... Nice!! I only get around 19 mpg with the 2.7t and I really don't drive it hard at all.

I can't wait to be part of the 4.2 A4 club!!! Hoping to be driving it by the end of this month.

Now that I think of it, with the shorter final drive of the 01E, I'm not sure that the revs on the freeway would be much different from mine. Anyone know the engine speed to do 60 mph with the 01E in 6th? I'm close to 2700 rpm in 5th. I have heard of people swapping 6th for the gear set from a TDI to give them a much nicer cruising RPM. Maybe someday if I have trouble with this transmission.

It's totally doable to have it driving by the end of the month.

[ddillenger]

First things First. VSS.

Verify that Pin 54 of the ecu goes to connector a180. From there it goes to the blue 32 pin plug on the cluster, and connects to pin 3 which is white and blue. Verify continuity between these two pins (ECU pin 54, Blue plug pin 3) to ensure the ecu receives the proper VSS signal!


Now, on the ecu side, large plug remove the wires from pins 30, 47, 48, 81. If you don't remove these, the car will not start and if it does it will run like crap. One is for the CEL, but it'll run without for now. I can walk you through hooking that up later.

The wire in pin 23 needs to be moved to 19. That is cyl 2 injector which is different on 01 ecus.

You must supply power to pin 21 on the large ECU plug. The 2000 ecu has no wire here, as it didn't have an immobilizer. You MUST run a diode inline for the trigger for pin 21. I prefer to connect it to fuse 7 (2001-up use this fuse), but any Key-on power source works, including terminal 75x. Then, add a diode. Radioshack sells them, I use this one:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062591

Without it, when you turn the key off the car will continue to run for a second or two. This is a big deal because it throws a plethora of codes as everything is shut down. Diode solves that problem.

Now, the small plug on the 2000 ecu. pin 115 has a large wire going into it. Follow it down till it splits. Those are cam adjusters - ground signal trigger. Bank 1 (passenger side) has to go to pin 115 and bank 2 (driver side) goes to 120. Basically the 2000 runs both cam adjuster grounds from one pin, we want to split them to both pins like the 2001 ecu has. If you don't want to do this, I can remove diagnosis in the flash, there are no drawbacks to doing this.

Pin 104 ecu side, small plug needs to go to 48 on the large ecu plug. Intake manifold changeover valve.

Then, we do the clutch switch install.

http://breakoutmotorsports.com/index.php/v8-swap-clutch-switch/

If you've already done this, skip right to the next step, verifying the clutch switch works properly:

VCDS measuring block 060. It should show your cruise control condition bits. Basically a string of 0's and 1's. When the clutch is out the 3rd bit (from the right) should be 0. push the clutch in, it should change to 1. If it's reversed, you have the wrong model clutch switch. Some are backwards. Not having this properly makes the car rev hang, and makes the driving experience VERY jerky.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Checking_Cruise_Control_using_Measuring_Values

This seems scarier than it is, but fear not. The entire process should take an hour!

Any questions?

[bhusted]

First things First. VSS.

Verify that Pin 54 of the ecu goes to connector a180. From there it goes to the blue 32 pin plug on the cluster, and connects to pin 3 which is white and blue. Verify continuity between these two pins (ECU pin 54, Blue plug pin 3) to ensure the ecu receives the proper VSS signal!


Now, on the ecu side, large plug remove the wires from pins 30, 47, 48, 81. If you don't remove these, the car will not start and if it does it will run like crap. One is for the CEL, but it'll run without for now. I can walk you through hooking that up later.

The wire in pin 23 needs to be moved to 19. That is cyl 2 injector which is different on 01 ecus.

You must supply power to pin 21 on the large ECU plug. The 2000 ecu has no wire here, as it didn't have an immobilizer. You MUST run a diode inline for the trigger for pin 21. I prefer to connect it to fuse 7 (2001-up use this fuse), but any Key-on power source works, including terminal 75x. Then, add a diode. Radioshack sells them, I use this one:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062591

Without it, when you turn the key off the car will continue to run for a second or two. This is a big deal because it throws a plethora of codes as everything is shut down. Diode solves that problem.

Now, the small plug on the 2000 ecu. pin 115 has a large wire going into it. Follow it down till it splits. Those are cam adjusters - ground signal trigger. Bank 1 (passenger side) has to go to pin 115 and bank 2 (driver side) goes to 120. Basically the 2000 runs both cam adjuster grounds from one pin, we want to split them to both pins like the 2001 ecu has. If you don't want to do this, I can remove diagnosis in the flash, there are no drawbacks to doing this.

Pin 104 ecu side, small plug needs to go to 48 on the large ecu plug. Intake manifold changeover valve.

Then, we do the clutch switch install.

http://breakoutmotorsports.com/index.php/v8-swap-clutch-switch/

If you've already done this, skip right to the next step, verifying the clutch switch works properly:

VCDS measuring block 060. It should show your cruise control condition bits. Basically a string of 0's and 1's. When the clutch is out the 3rd bit (from the right) should be 0. push the clutch in, it should change to 1. If it's reversed, you have the wrong model clutch switch. Some are backwards. Not having this properly makes the car rev hang, and makes the driving experience VERY jerky.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Checking_Cruise_Control_using_Measuring_Values

This seems scarier than it is, but fear not. The entire process should take an hour!

Any questions?

Doesn't seem bad at all. I'm waiting to hear back from this junk yard on the ECU that they may have for me and then I can dive in.

I think that the VSS is correct already, but I will double check with the test you have suggested. I've done some logging with VAG-COM and the VSS reported by the ECU matches what's going on in the cluster, aside from being in km/hr.

What do pins 30, 47, 48, and 81 do that they need to be removed. I do need to have a CEL to pass inspection, so I'll want to hook that up.

No problem adding the diode to pin 21, though you haven't mentioned the polarity of the diode. Which orientation should it be?

How far into the harness do I have to dig to find where the cam adjuster wires split? I don't mind doing it if it's in the first few inches, but I don't want to de-loom a ton of it. In my current setup, the ECU varies both cams together, whereas the 2001 is able to vary them separately? If I understand correctly, that seems like a much better plan.

Which change over valve does pin 104 control? There are 2 valves on my engine. Does the 2001+ only have one?

I used the clutch switch from my pedal cluster when I did the swap and read the article you referenced. Do you know if the correct switch (you mentioned that some are backwards) is normally open or normally closed? I don't think I can access 060 with VCDS lite to verify the installation with the method you have suggested. The wiring is complete, but I do wonder about the switch.

Once I get the necessary harness modifications completed will I simply be able to load the files you've posted on NefMoto, or will additional changes need to be made? Should I work on gathering pieces to make a bench flash setup, or do you think I'll be able to do this in car?

Thanks for the help!

[revolution337]

^ yeah y u so awuhsumm?

[bhusted]

Just got off of the phone with the junkyard. The ECU from the 2001 they have is 4D0907558F. I'm assuming this is no good. I'm glad you had the part # otherwise I would have bought it.

Looks like I'll be talking to Maroney's tomorrow. Thanks for the link Walky.

[ddillenger]

I'm not familiar with that ecu. If it TRULY is a 2001 ecu, then it'll work. HOWEVER, the only references I see to it online point me towards a 32v a8. I'd look elsewhere. I can give you some alternates that work (4D0907560CL works as well), but the 560AE is plentiful and cheap. It's your best bet for finding one that won't break the bank, that's why I listed it. I can't be explicit enough in my warning NOT to get a 2002-up ecu. If you do, your ecu won't get a VSS signal, and your redline will be limited to 6000 (unless the file is altered). In addition, you can't use the launch control or no lift shift I patched in (I'll post it in the thread later).

Now, for your questions.

1. The Diode allows power to pin 21, but not from it.
2. The cam adjuster split is about 12-18" from the ecu plug. Splitting them isn't for individual control, but rather for individual circuit diagnosis. The 2001 will tell you if you have an open circuit on one of the adjusters, whereas the 2000 would need both to be open before triggering a fault code.
3. The S6 flash uses the second changeover for the intake tract, not the manifold. You will want to connect both pods to the one solenoid to operate like the s6 does in unison. While this may seem detrimental, the gearing is so different there is no detriment to doing it this way, and the flash is modified accordingly.
4. You can load the nefmoto files, but they may need tweaking, or codeouts based on your installed components.

Also, don't forget that you'll need to defeat the immobilizer prior to running the 01 ecu!

[Mad Cow]

You must supply power to pin 21 on the large ECU plug. The 2000 ecu has no wire here, as it didn't have an immobilizer. You MUST run a diode inline for the trigger for pin 21. I prefer to connect it to fuse 7 (2001-up use this fuse), but any Key-on power source works, including terminal 75x. Then, add a diode. Radioshack sells them, I use this one:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062591

Without it, when you turn the key off the car will continue to run for a second or two. This is a big deal because it throws a plethora of codes as everything is shut down. Diode solves that problem.


I'm sorry for being kinda off topic, but as I understand it this will bypass the J271 relay? Or does the 2001 harness not have one in the first place?

[ddillenger]

You are correct, there will be a J271 Relay code present after the swap. I remove it from the flash. You could hook it up, but I've found this way to be the simplest.

[bhusted]

I'm not familiar with that ecu. If it TRULY is a 2001 ecu, then it'll work. HOWEVER, the only references I see to it online point me towards a 32v a8. I'd look elsewhere. I can give you some alternates that work (4D0907560CL works as well), but the 560AE is plentiful and cheap. It's your best bet for finding one that won't break the bank, that's why I listed it. I can't be explicit enough in my warning NOT to get a 2002-up ecu. If you do, your ecu won't get a VSS signal, and your redline will be limited to 6000 (unless the file is altered). In addition, you can't use the launch control or no lift shift I patched in (I'll post it in the thread later).

Now, for your questions.

1. The Diode allows power to pin 21, but not from it.
2. The cam adjuster split is about 12-18" from the ecu plug. Splitting them isn't for individual control, but rather for individual circuit diagnosis. The 2001 will tell you if you have an open circuit on one of the adjusters, whereas the 2000 would need both to be open before triggering a fault code.
3. The S6 flash uses the second changeover for the intake tract, not the manifold. You will want to connect both pods to the one solenoid to operate like the s6 does in unison. While this may seem detrimental, the gearing is so different there is no detriment to doing it this way, and the flash is modified accordingly.
4. You can load the nefmoto files, but they may need tweaking, or codeouts based on your installed components.

Also, don't forget that you'll need to defeat the immobilizer prior to running the 01 ecu!

I'll take your advise and find a 560AE. Walky posted a link to a yard in PA that claims to have two for $75 each. I'll give them a call tomorrow and get one on its way.

It sounds like a good practice to split the cam signals for diagnostic purposes later on down the road if necessary. It shouldn't be too bad, but that electrical tape the Germans use on the harness is like kevlar.

So, with your S6 file, both flaps stay shut until the higher threshold is reached? This would seem to make more sense than opening both early.

I'm planning to retain all stock equipment for the moment with state emissions tests to pass. The only thing I've though about trying to remove if everything else goes well is the SAI pump and EGR valves. I'll save that problem for later though.

Can you tell me more about the clutch switch? As I said before, I do have one installed. It's the same one that was used for the DBC cruise control on the V6. I'm just wondering if the switch should be open or closed went the pedal is in the up position. I'll test my current switch in the morning to see what I have.

I need to do some more reading on NefMoto about the immo defeat and flashing in general. Thanks again.

[ddillenger]

There are two switches. It sounds like you only have the one for starting the car, but that's fine with an auto file. Once the manual file's in, that's when it becomes important to to install the proper switch to prevent the previously mentioned issues, as well as have working cruise control. As for the intake flaps, with my file I sort of split the difference and open the flaps a little earlier than the s6, but later than the initial state of the a6. It keeps the load steady and I feel it's a good compromise. The one on nef isn't the one I currently use, but the intake flap maps are defined, so you can alter their mapping to suit your liking.

As for the SAI, it's very easy to delete. I can help you out with that.

[bhusted]

I have both clutch switches. There is the starter interlock switch (push the pedal to start), and the vacuum vent switch at the top of the pedal throw. I have it wired into pin 39 on the ECU as the page from breakout motorsports suggests. The switch I used was the same vacuum vent switch originally used for the cable based cruise control. Since my car was originally DBC, I had to add the wire from the switch to the white plenum plug and then to the ECU.

Does deleting the SAI effect the readiness codes at all? Since the car is already hot when I arrive at the testing center, there would be no reason for the pump to actually run. I would guess that they just look to see that the ECU thinks it's working.

[ddillenger]

There are 2 ways to remove it.

1. Tell the ecu that no flow is normal. This allows you to remove the pump without codes as the ecu never expects any airflow so it isn't disappointed when it doesn't get any. Readiness passes. You must leave the relay in place.
2. Turn SAI off as though it was never equipped. This sets it to PASSED in vcds, but NOT SUPPORTED to all other scanners. Circuit diagnosis can also be removed so as to allow the removal of the relay without stopping fuel trims.

Either way is acceptable.

[bhusted]

New ECU is on its way. I'm excited to get these last few issues figured out.

[rage385]

tracking this thread! I am thinking about picking up my friends 2000 A4 and I would love to put this V8 in there!

[rage385]

is there any difference between this V8 and the V8 in the S5?

[bhusted]

I ended up stuck in traffic yesterday for about 45 minutes and no overheating. I have to admit, I was a little bit worried, but the fans did their job. I ran the A/C at 70 F the whole time. I could certainly hear the hurricane going on outside though[:D]


is there any difference between this V8 and the V8 in the S5?

I'm certain that there are other differences, but I think that all of the newer V8s are timing chain instead of a timing belt.

[ddillenger]

is there any difference between this V8 and the V8 in the S5?

The only thing they share is the displacement.

[bhusted]

I got my Chinese center caps today. I've been using the VW caps that came with the wheels for over a year now. Not bad for $13 shipped from China.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130816_131354_915_zps375b64d6.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130816_131354_915_zps375b64d6.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130816_134208_720_zps37e5087b.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130816_134208_720_zps37e5087b.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130816_134222_599_zpsd6d85871.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130816_134222_599_zpsd6d85871.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130816_134233_420_zpsf84c44d8.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130816_134233_420_zpsf84c44d8.jpg.html)

[widgget]

Very nice project.

Why did you go with a 4.2 over the 2.7t?

Don't get me wrong, the V8 sounds sexy as hell, but it's a heavy beast and the one out of the B6 S4 at least is expensive as hell maintenance wise, let alone upgrading it, not that a 2.7t is exactly cheap ether but parts are much more readily available.

I'm not challenging your choice of engine, it's just that everyone in the B6 world is going with 2.7t swaps (plan on it myself this winter), and i am trying to understand why the B5 guys are so hot on going to the 4.2 instead.

[bhusted]

This is not the chain driven 4.2 from the B6 S4. Rather an older belt driven engine from a C5 A6. Stock for stock, this engine is more power and more reliable (my opinion) than the 2.7T (fewer expensive parts to break).

Many people have asked about the weight, but when it comes down to it, this engine is lighter than the 2.7T. The 2.8 and 2.7T are both cast iron blocks. This V8 is all aluminum with a magnesium intake manifold. The only real disadvantage with the V8 is that it is a little bit longer than the V6.

[Nollywood]

Very nice project.

Why did you go with a 4.2 over the 2.7t?

Don't get me wrong, the V8 sounds sexy as hell, but it's a heavy beast and the one out of the B6 S4 at least is expensive as hell maintenance wise, let alone upgrading it, not that a 2.7t is exactly cheap ether but parts are much more readily available.

I'm not challenging your choice of engine, it's just that everyone in the B6 world is going with 2.7t swaps (plan on it myself this winter), and i am trying to understand why the B5 guys are so hot on going to the 4.2 instead.

The 4.2 V8 weighs about the same as the 2.8 30V. And way less than the 2.7T.

The 2.7T is easier to install in the B6 than the belt-driven V8. The B6 engine bay is shorter than that of the B5. The chain-driven V8 is notoriously unreliable.

Fitting a 2.7T in a B5 is reinventing the wheel, and is not actually a conversion, the B5 S4 has taken care of that.

I hope this answers your questions.

[widgget]

I hope this answers your questions.

It does. Thank you both.

[bhusted]

New (used) ECU arrived today. Excited to get started on the conversion. Does anyone know if the large ECU plug from a 2.8 will physically fit this ECU? I'm thinking of making a bench flashing harness while I'm at it and need to know what my options are for cars to cut from at the junk yard.

[Mad Cow]

New (used) ECU arrived today. Excited to get started on the conversion. Does anyone know if the large ECU plug from a 2.8 will physically fit this ECU? I'm thinking of making a bench flashing harness while I'm at it and need to know what my options are for cars to cut from at the junk yard.

Best you can do is try, if it fits you'll know. The only difference I can imagine would be the shape of the small tab that protrudes between the 5 thick wires and the 2 rows of smaller wires on the large plug (the only one you need). But it's not really useful anyway, lots of people end up cutting them off. If you're browsing junkyards I would look for an ATW and AWM, ATW's have one style and late AWM's have the other.

[bhusted]

Got my new serpentine pulleys and coolant tank in the mail. Of course this is the same day that the original coolant tank went critical on me. Now I have a nice shiny coolant tank instead of the old yellowed one. I ordered it from partsgeek.com and fully expected a Chinese knockoff for the $56 I spent (everyone else wanted close to $100). The one I received looks to be OEM with the four rings and part number cast into the bottom.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130901_082238_530_zps53153379.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130901_082238_530_zps53153379.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130901_082246_751_zps6ed33b83.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130901_082246_751_zps6ed33b83.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130901_082229_531_zpsb3173e45.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130901_082229_531_zpsb3173e45.jpg.html)

I actually did the tank swap in the parking lot of our apartment (not supposed to work on cars). I didn't want to drive it and have the old one totally explode. Early on a Sunday morning there wasn't anyone around, so I went for it. Used a $4 hand pump from Harbor freight to drain the tank and some plastic line pinch clamps to hold everything else in. Didn't spill a drop. Before someone mentions it, I know I need a new cap...

Later today or tomorrow I'll drive to the garage where I work to pull the bumper/lock carrier and switch out the serpentine pulleys. One of the idler pulleys has gone bad and now sounds like a supercharged V8 without the extra Hp. I hope the noise is the plastic idler or tensioner pulley and not the one that used to drive the fan.

In other news, my wife and I will be moving in October. We bought a place in Kirkland with a garage! [:D]

[bhusted]

CEL turned off today while I was on my way home from work. I'm not sure if the ECU finally gave up on the errors, or if the light failed...

[DeltaAlpha9]

Easiest way to tell would be to turn the key to ACC and watch the lamp test.

[bhusted]

Yeah. I'll take a better look at it tonight. It's weird that it just turned off on its own. I'll see if it turns on in the ACC position and scan for codes tonight. It's nice to have it off though if all is truly well. I figured the TCU fault would keep it on until I switched ECUs.

[bhusted]

Today I replaced both the tensioner and plastic idler pulleys. The noise has diminished, but I believe that the now idler that used to be the mount for the viscus fan is the final source. The only problem is that it is rediculously expensive ~$300 for aftermarket. Anyone know of a belt outing on these V8's that would bypass the fan pulley?

[bhusted]

Made this wire harness tonight for bench flashing the new ECU. Hope to have some good progress this weekend. Thanks to "lm0812" for finding the necessary ECU plug in a junkyard for me.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130918_215317_053_zps7f20b5c1.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130918_215317_053_zps7f20b5c1.jpg.html)

[revolution337]

The only problem is that it is rediculously expensive ~$300 for aftermarket. Anyone know of a belt outing on these V8's that would bypass the fan pulley?

I had that same bearing (the one for the viscous fan clutch) go out on me when I got my car running as well, it made a god awful noise. I also noticed howe insanely expensive an OEM replcement was. After searching for about a week, I was able to find a guy parting out a 4.2 A6 and I picked up a used one for $25. No more noise.

[bhusted]

I had that same bearing (the one for the viscous fan clutch) go out on me when I got my car running as well, it made a god awful noise. I also noticed howe insanely expensive an OEM replcement was. After searching for about a week, I was able to find a guy parting out a 4.2 A6 and I picked up a used one for $25. No more noise.

I found one from a partout on Vortex for $30. I hope that noise goes away. It's getting embarrassing to drive into school. I teach at an independent school where parents drive Maseratis, Ferraris, etc. I sure can turn some heads in a 14 year old Audi that makes some funny noises.

[bhusted]

Still waiting on the fan pulley bearing to show up. In the mean time I got some other goodies.

While I was changing out the other two idler bearings on the serpentine, I noticed that one of the intake flap links was totally missing. I'm not real sure what happened here. I've heard of the them breaking, but there were no parts. Just gone. The Gruven links look pretty nice but rather steep at $90. I ordered up some M5 ball joints to make my own for ~$20. These also have the security pin and dust boots.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130928_172538_329_zpsd263920b.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130928_172538_329_zpsd263920b.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130928_172548_944_zpse1e501cb.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130928_172548_944_zpse1e501cb.jpg.html)

I also did some more work on my bench flashing harness. I added a switch to simulate the ignition switch and a ground for getting the ECU into boot mode.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130928_173309_427_zpsbd25639c.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130928_173309_427_zpsbd25639c.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130928_173318_327_zps87f40e86.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130928_173318_327_zps87f40e86.jpg.html)

Next up is to defeat the immobilizer and flash the modified S6 file.

[bhusted]

Got my new intake linkage arms made today. Way stronger than the stock plastic ones and much cheaper than the Gruven alternative. Ordered the joints and dust seals from http://www.jwwinco.com/. These joints also include safety locking pins to make sure that they will NOT fall off.

Part numbers:
Joints - 5NXF1/B $3.30 x 4 = $13.20
Dust seals - 12DXF0 $1.37 x 5 = $6.87
Total = $20.07

I ordered the fifth dust seal in case I tore one and it put me over the $20 minimum for free shipping. For the threaded portions to link them together, I went to my local ACE and bought 2 M5x0.8x40mm bolts and cut the heads off for $0.94. I used the nuts that came on the ball stud as the jam nuts and tightened everything down with some blue locktite just to be sure. Total investment $21.01.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130929_121842_303_zpsa6f3a41e.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130929_121842_303_zpsa6f3a41e.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20130929_125956_355_zps5c711c26.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20130929_125956_355_zps5c711c26.jpg.html)

[revolution337]

Very cool! Looks to be just as quality as the gruven units.

[bhusted]

Sprung a power steering leak today... I went to pull it out of the garage and the damn pump was whining and there was a puddle underneath it. Great! To top it off, the fan pulley I've been waiting for in the mail got redirected because my fail forwarding took effect today. Hopefully it shows up at the new address tomorrow. I guess I know what I'll be working on this weekend.

[bhusted]

Got some time today to work on replacing that serpentine bearing that had gone bad. In the process, I took some pics of the radiator setup for those that had asked.

Top hose from outside:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20131109_125203_626_zpsbe9954ba.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20131109_125203_626_zpsbe9954ba.jpg.html)

Clearance from inside on the top hose:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20131109_125241_732_zpsd75c154f.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20131109_125241_732_zpsd75c154f.jpg.html)

Lower hose from outside:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20131109_125326_133_zps7578a4ea.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20131109_125326_133_zps7578a4ea.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20131109_125622_374_zps40387d15.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20131109_125622_374_zps40387d15.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20131109_125636_047_zps8367edac.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20131109_125636_047_zps8367edac.jpg.html)

Upper hose from inside after moving lock carrier forward:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20131109_131328_757_zps9710dd41.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20131109_131328_757_zps9710dd41.jpg.html)

It's still taken apart while I work on a power steering leak, so if there are any other angles you want to see, let me know.

[bhusted]

And...We're Back! I was gone for a while with a massive power steering leak. With new hoses and some busted knuckles she's alive again. Also had this wicked knocking noise and starting fearing the worst. Turns out that some idiot forgot to tighten these...

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20140201_152046_471_zps6124820c.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20140201_152046_471_zps6124820c.jpg.html)

[NeedingAnAudi]

And...We're Back! I was gone for a while with a massive power steering leak. With new hoses and some busted knuckles she's alive again. Also had this wicked knocking noise and starting fearing the worst. Turns out that some idiot forgot to tighten these...

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20140201_152046_471_zps6124820c.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20140201_152046_471_zps6124820c.jpg.html)

You should fire your mechanic lol

[revolution337]

Those don't even appear to be the correct bolts for that pulley, they look way to big. IIRC, they are 10mm heads.

[Vinnie981]

Those don't even appear to be the correct bolts for that pulley, they look way to big. IIRC, they are 10mm heads.


100% correct you are. I have the 4.2L ART motor and those are NOT the right bolts at all!

[bhusted]

100% correct you are. I have the 4.2L ART motor and those are NOT the right bolts at all!

They are the "right" bolts. The originals were in such poor shape that I replaced them with hardened flange bolts. I torqued them down and used red loctite this time.

[Vinnie981]

interesting...ill post some pics of mine in the AM.

[jerrone]

I'm looking into this swap now.The 4.2 bolts up to the 2.8 tranny right?

[revolution337]

I'm looking into this swap now.The 4.2 bolts up to the 2.8 tranny right?

yes

[OldAudiA4]

Awesome project!

[bhusted]

The bushing on the front lower control arm failed and I ordered a new pair from FCP. I went to replace it this morning and discovered that even with my meticulous attention to VIN splits, etc. I got the wrong parts. Fortunately, they are going to take care of me and get a pair of the correct arms out to me ASAP. Notice the difference in the ball joint taper.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20140219_092933_895_zpsbafc2295.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20140219_092933_895_zpsbafc2295.jpg.html)

Sucks having to reassemble with old parts. While I was under there, I replaced the leaking oil pressure sensor. I don't know about it's location when installed in an A6, but this was a real b$#@h on the A4. The best part was the waterfall of oil when I got the old one out. Glad I wore safety glasses.

[Operator]

Nice work!!!! Really clean and smoothly done thus far it seems!

[bhusted]

Got started on the wiring changes for the modified AWN ECU today. May have time to finish it up tonight after Walking Dead. Super excited to get rid of the ART issues.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20140330_171034_384_zps032a5ce2.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20140330_171034_384_zps032a5ce2.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

Finished up the wiring changes last night, but it won't start. It seems like a fuel/injector problem. I pulled the plugs on a couple of cylinders and they were dry. I'm going to make an LED test light for the injectors today. Is there a way to test for spark with the coil on plug ignition?

[walky_talky20]

Just like this (skip to 1:10). Stuff a screwdriver in the end of the coil, then hold the shaft about 1/16" from the valve cover or other ground. Have somebody crank the engine.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ZceAZgZBn9E#t=70

[bhusted]

Back up and running! With the newer ECU pin 21 apparently needs power through a diode to defeat the immobilizer. I thought that I may have gotten the polarity wrong, but it turns out that the 75x terminal is not hot during start and so the ECU was never getting the signal while cranking. Special thanks to ddillenger for all of his help.

I haven't reassembled anything yet (dash, ECU box, rain tray, etc), but the trip around the block was AMAZING! No more rev-hang, high idle, or SAI noise. [:D] Tomorrow I'll put everything else back together and install the $100 DTS I picked up on CL.

[bhusted]

Got the DTS installed and it does make a difference. Under power before I could feel the transmission squirm around now it seems to totally stay put. There is of course some additional NVH, but really only at idle and I can live with it.

Today I also installed the correct clutch switch for the new ECU. How much of a difference could a switch to tell the ECU if the clutch is in or out make? Major improvement! I don't know how to describe how it was before other than "jerky". It made me feel like I didn't know how to drive. Now it's much smoother. For the record, If you're running the ME7.1.1 ECU, the switch needs to be "normally closed". I wrongfully assumed that the switch from the 2.8 would work, but it is "normally open". I ended up using a brake light switch I got from the pick-n-pull.

Last few things on the list to do before buttoning it back up:
- hook up CEL wire. This had to be removed for the new ECU, but I'd like to get it figured out for future reference.
- figure out which of the vacuum solenoids is activated by the ecu. The new ECU only actuates one of the intake manifold flaps.
- move the VSS signal to the proper pin on the ECU. The cruise control stopped working after the ECU swap and I think it's a VSS issue.

[Mad Cow]

The new ECU probably uses the canbus for the CEL, I had this issue when I swapped in my AWM harness which does the same. I was able to connect a wire to the same pin as it was in my ATW harness and it worked. I never knew that there are two different clutch switches, I'm still using my old 2.8 switch too and I wonder if ME7.5 needs a different one.

[bhusted]

I never knew that there are two different clutch switches, I'm still using my old 2.8 switch too and I wonder if ME7.5 needs a different one.

If your cruise control works, then everything is good. If not, this could be one of your issues and causing more issues than just cc not working.

[Mad Cow]

Yea I realized afterwards that it would prevent cc from working, and mine works just fine. As for the VSS issue, I ME7.1.1 might get speed through canbus and have the VSS go to just the cluster.

[bhusted]

Lower radiator hose clamp failed resulting in a nice puddle of coolant on the floor this morning. I also took the opportunity to get the vacuum lines sorted out for the intake change over valves and pull out the hose/solenoid for the combi valves and SAI. I need to get some block off plates on order so I can pull the combi valves too.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20140409_144141_581_zps1fs1lxwi.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20140409_144141_581_zps1fs1lxwi.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20140409_144201_180_zpspfztuo1h.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20140409_144201_180_zpspfztuo1h.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

Still no dice on the VSS. I've verified continuity from the pin on the ECU to the cluster. While running the ART ECU, I know it was receiving the VSS because cruise worked. Now when I try to log measuring block 005, speed constantly reads 0.0 km/hr. What gives?

[Mad Cow]

What about continuity between the VSS and cluster? I'm not sure how it's connected, but does it go through the ECU or does the ECU VSS input pin also serve as the cluster VSS input?

[bhusted]

The cluster is good. The VSS feeds directly into the cluster and then there is an output on the cluster that goes to the ECU. There is a separate pin for the output from the VSS into the cluster from the output to the ECU. I think the problem is software with the newer ECU expecting a different type of signal for speed.

[Mad Cow]

Oh so the speedo works but the ECU isn't getting a VSS signal? Like I said before, it might be that the new ECU gets its VSS signal from the ABS unit through the canbus like how the B6 does it. This is just a guess though since I have absolutely no idea if it's actually like that. If that is the case though I don't see how you would be able to do anything about it short of modifying the ECU software.

I think you might have to invoke ddillenger again, if anyone can help you out it would be him.

[bhusted]

I've already be in contact with ddillenger and he's looking into it also. He seems to think that 2001 ECU I'm using will accept the CAN VSS signal or the older pulse VSS signal. I've been pouring over wire diagrams and it appears to support what he is saying. I hope to get it figured out soon.

[Mad Cow]

That's really weird, my diagrams don't show a direct link between the cluster and ECU for the VSS circuit. It shows it going to the cluster, then out on pin 3 of the blue connector to A108 and nothing after that, no other reference to A108. Are you 100% sure the new ECU uses the same pin for VSS? Sorry if these sound like stupid questions, but it's best to cover all the bases no matter how trivial it seems.

[bhusted]

Yeah. I'm certain of the connection. Everything I have suggests that pin 54 is the VSS for my ECU. If you have a diagram that suggests otherwise, I'd love to know.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/2001A642InstramentCluster_zpsb77b464e.png (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/2001A642InstramentCluster_zpsb77b464e.png.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/2001A642InstramentCluster2_zps8806bee9.png (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/2001A642InstramentCluster2_zps8806bee9.png.html)

[Mad Cow]

Everything I've said is based off the diagram found in ELSA, I can't really make sense of the one you posted and can barely read it because of the resolution anyway. I can send you my diagram if it'll help, I wish I could be more helpful but I'm no electrical wizard.

[bhusted]

Had the pleasure of replacing the clutch master cylinder yesterday. I really hope that its failure was not due to the heavier pressure plate because I really do not want to have to do that again. If you have not had the pleasure of changing the master cylinder, it is located inside the car under the dash. The hydraulic connections are on the firewall underneath the ECU box. I managed to not leak any fluid into the interior.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140419_141841_244_zps4aivp2wu.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140419_141841_244_zps4aivp2wu.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140419_154916_083_zpsxokfeeyr.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140419_154916_083_zpsxokfeeyr.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

Started mocking up a new air box tonight. The current situation places the air filter directly over the passenger exhaust manifold. While it seems to run great, I'm certain it would run better without all of that hot air in the intake. I picked up a coupler and a 45 to start.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140422_204524_712_zpspawjqms5.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140422_204524_712_zpspawjqms5.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140422_204515_812_zpsqsqxeqib.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140422_204515_812_zpsqsqxeqib.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140422_204503_890_zpsdayp3bpq.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140422_204503_890_zpsdayp3bpq.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140422_204452_925_zpssrhadb67.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140422_204452_925_zpssrhadb67.jpg.html)

The filter side of the tube will have to be cut to accommodate the filter. I may trim the MAF end of the tube as well. I plan to utilize the stock air box mounting points on the frame and will have to fabricate some sort of new upper mount.

[MetalMan]

Great idea! While you're at it, may I suggest also finding a viable replacement for the according hose between MAF and (throttle body?)? There are lots of different silicone couplers available, like 45 deg. reducing, etc.

[bhusted]

Great idea! While you're at it, may I suggest also finding a viable replacement for the according hose between MAF and (throttle body?)? There are lots of different silicone couplers available, like 45 deg. reducing, etc.

Yeah, I've looked at replacing the whole thing from the TB to the MAF and 034 makes one for the B6 S4 that is almost a direct fit, but they want $75 for it.

http://store.034motorsport.com/maf-hose-silicone-b6-s4-audi-v8.html

After I get this part figured out, I may look into other options for that.

[bhusted]

MetalMan's comment about the stock accordion hose got me thinking tonight, so I decided to try replacing the stock tube from the TB elbow to the MAF with the aluminum tube I already bought. The fit is actually pretty good.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140423_193430_968_zpsuak6qyw4.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140423_193430_968_zpsuak6qyw4.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140423_193424_206_zps6tloshdr.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140423_193424_206_zps6tloshdr.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140423_193443_996_zpsrnydtq9u.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140423_193443_996_zpsrnydtq9u.jpg.html)

[MetalMan]

That's pretty cool. So then I'm assuming the MAF would attach to the open end of the pipe?

[bhusted]

That's pretty cool. So then I'm assuming the MAF would attach to the open end of the pipe?

Yeah. I think I would shorten the end of the pipe a bit and then attach the MAF with either a straight or a 45 degree coupler. Using the 45, I could turn it more toward the strut tower after the aluminum pipe. It sort of screws up my plan for the heat shield though. I'm open to other ideas...

[MetalMan]

Maybe a metal pipe with a MAF sensor tower welded onto it? Kinda like this:
http://s8.photobucket.com/user/Dandre056/media/P8310108.jpg.html
That's obviously extra added expense but it's an idea [rolleyes]

How about some of that "Reflect-a-gold" or whatever it's called wrapped around the MAF housing to shield heat?

Another idea: what about a 45" silicone coupler, attached directly to the throttle body or with a short straight section between the silicone coupler and TB?
The MAF housing could hook straight into the silicone coupler, and the silicone coupler could be easily trimmed to size.

[bhusted]

Maybe a metal pipe with a MAF sensor tower welded onto it? Kinda like this:
http://s8.photobucket.com/user/Dandre056/media/P8310108.jpg.html
That's obviously extra added expense but it's an idea [rolleyes]

How about some of that "Reflect-a-gold" or whatever it's called wrapped around the MAF housing to shield heat?

Another idea: what about a 45" silicone coupler, attached directly to the throttle body or with a short straight section between the silicone coupler and TB?
The MAF housing could hook straight into the silicone coupler, and the silicone coupler could be easily trimmed to size.

The aluminum MAF sensor housing would be super classy. You're making this "simple" project escalate very quickly. I have a spare MAF housing that I could experiment with at some point. I'll talk to my buddy with the TIG at some point about making that.

I like the idea of moving the MAF to directly before the throttle body. There is a 90 degree elbow that comes straight off of the throttle body there. I wonder if there would be any detrimental effects to having a bend directly after the MAF. There is also a PCV hose that goes into that elbow and I would hate to see any oil residue from the PCV get onto my MAF.

[tinytim]

Looking good dude... I can't wait to have my engine back in!!

[bhusted]

Looking good dude... I can't wait to have my engine back in!!

Thanks! I think we all want to see what happens when your engine goes back in.

Ddillenger thinks my VSS issues arise from trying to use an older cluster with the newer ECU. I found a partout of a 2000 S4 on CL and went out to meet him today. Super nice guy. Picked up the cluster, wiper switch, and wiring for the DIS. It looks like I'm back to digging through wire diagrams...

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20140427_145923_037_zpsgoviqktt.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20140427_145923_037_zpsgoviqktt.jpg.html)

[tinytim]

Wiring diagrams... I just love those things. Not!

I'm not running a stock cluster so things may get interesting for me.

[Mad Cow]

Nice, I've been planning on swapping in a facelift cluster too so I'd like to know how it goes. I already did a bit of preliminary work in figuring out what wires go where, it might help you out: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/63667361/cluster%20pinout.xlsx Note that I already have a DIS so the last connector you'll have to figure out yourself.

[bhusted]

Nice, I've been planning on swapping in a facelift cluster too so I'd like to know how it goes. I already did a bit of preliminary work in figuring out what wires go where, it might help you out: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/63667361/cluster%20pinout.xlsx Note that I already have a DIS so the last connector you'll have to figure out yourself.

Thanks. Your spreadsheet looks very similar to the one I've created. I've been going through diagrams to identify each pin and the corresponding wire color. There seem to be quite a few to move from the blue plug to the green. Always an adventure with this car. I'll certainly document the process and let you know how it goes.

[Mad Cow]

How are you going to do the wiring? Since so many wires change connectors i'm looking to salvage some female connectors from a broken cluster and making an adapter harness sort of thing.

[bhusted]

How are you going to do the wiring? Since so many wires change connectors i'm looking to salvage some female connectors from a broken cluster and making an adapter harness sort of thing.

I'm just planning to repin the connectors. I would be nice to have some female connectors, but I'm not sure how feasible that will be. Anyone have a broken cluster that they want to send me? I'll pay for shipping.

[bhusted]

Rather than search and wait to find a broken cluster to salvage the sockets from, I took another look at the cluster plugs. They are a standard 0.1" or 2.54 mm spacing. I went down to my local electronics store and picked up some header pins and set to work.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140429_194106_043_zpsuykoxedr.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140429_194106_043_zpsuykoxedr.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140429_194129_969_zps8hdeqnll.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140429_194129_969_zps8hdeqnll.jpg.html)

I've now traced each pin for the cluster swap (I think) and soldered each wire to it's corresponding pin. I'm not real happy with how the heat shrink turned out, so I might revisit that later. The additional wires are ones that will get transferred to the green plug. Here is the beginning of my adapter harness. It will plug into my existing harness so no modification of the existing cluster plugs will be necessary.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140429_211553_310_zpslghetfrv.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140429_211553_310_zpslghetfrv.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140429_211614_038_zpsx4cgjlat.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140429_211614_038_zpsx4cgjlat.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

Finished up my prototype cluster harness tonight. Of course I had to go plug it all in. No gray plug yet, but the cluster has all of the basic functions. The best part was the surprise of the "light saber" gauge needles. I need to finish mapping out the pins to the gray plug and test that before finishing my final harness. I may put in an order for one of the ebay LCD screens.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140430_203917_419_zpsywjlyquf.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140430_203917_419_zpsywjlyquf.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

Full facelift cluster swap complete! The ECU now sees the VSS from the cluster and the full rpm range is available for usage [:D]. I still have the warning lights to deal with on the new cluster, but I think I can just ground them to get rid of them for now.

The cluster swap wasn't as bad as others had made it out to be, or maybe I'm just getting used to reading these diagrams. Regardless, I'd be happy to send my spreadsheet to anyone interested in this swap. I'll try to make it into a nice .pdf at some point for others to reference.

[Koldham]

does the gauge cluster hold the mileage or is it just a display for the ecu?

[Mad Cow]

does the gauge cluster hold the mileage or is it just a display for the ecu?

Mileage is stored in the cluster, but all you need is a generic vcds cable and the right software to change it. Vag tacho and vag commander cables can do it out of the box. Or you can program the memory chip directly, which is the most reliable method.

[bhusted]

^Yup. This will be my next project.

[MetalMan]

^Yup. This will be my next project.

Are you planning to recode the EEPROM yourself?

[bhusted]

Are you planning to recode the EEPROM yourself?

No. I'll probably send it somewhere to have that taken care of. I want to make sure I've gotten all of the other kinks worked out before I do though.

[MetalMan]

Makes sense. I sent my EEPROM off to "a guy" (you probably already know who) and he reprogrammed it so I could reset it.

[bhusted]

Makes sense. I sent my EEPROM off to "a guy" (you probably already know who) and he reprogrammed it so I could reset it.

That's probably what I'll do. I'm going hold off for a bit and just keep track of the additional mileage. I want to make sure everything is good to go.

[Mad Cow]

If you still need to change the mileage, I found a program that works right off the bat with a generic kkl cable, no messing with drivers/configs and stuff. I tested it on both my clusters and it works flawlessly and couldn't be simpler to use.

[bhusted]

I'd love to see that program and get the mileage fixed. Thanks!

[Mad Cow]

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3559.msg36196#msg36196

This is the version I used, many thanks to ddillenger for making it accessible.

[bhusted]

Thanks. I'll give that a try. It would certainly be easier than having to ship the cluster out.

[bhusted]

My outlaws are coming to visit this weekend, so I won't be allowed to work on the car. I did get a 45 degree coupler to replace the stock one to the MAF. It certainly cleans up the look, but now I'm not sure where to go with the rest of it. I may have to shorten the new coupler to allow more room for the filter inside my airbox. Maybe my idea of the 45 degree aluminum pipe isn't going to work out. Take a look at the pics. I'm willing to listen to any/all suggestions for where to go.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140521_171321_005_zpsl87oxsa8.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140521_171321_005_zpsl87oxsa8.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140521_171343_962_zpsek4mhu4t.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140521_171343_962_zpsek4mhu4t.jpg.html)

I may need to start over on my cardboard mockup of the heat shield.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140521_171853_168_zpsssilv0ts.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140521_171853_168_zpsssilv0ts.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140521_171904_512_zpsyw62unca.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140521_171904_512_zpsyw62unca.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140521_171826_749_zpslok1igwi.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140521_171826_749_zpslok1igwi.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

I worked on my heat shield for a while today while I was trying to avoid grading my final exams. No more cardboard template. I still have to add the mounting tabs on the bottom/back. Still deciding on how to finish it. What do you think? Paint, sanded to raw aluminum, or leave it?

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140607_195937_164_zps3nopwweo.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140607_195937_164_zps3nopwweo.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140607_195948_003_zpsbfmhe4op.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140607_195948_003_zpsbfmhe4op.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140607_195958_176_zpsbtc69xpj.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140607_195958_176_zpsbtc69xpj.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

Finished up the mounting brackets for the heat shield today. Still undecided on if I want to paint it. I sanded out the back side and I kind of like the look. Now I want to do some intake air temp logs with and without to see if I actually made any improvement. Anyway, here are the pics.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140609_164141_512_zpsnuhkt0q1.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140609_164141_512_zpsnuhkt0q1.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140609_164056_913_zpsicwzp76s.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140609_164056_913_zpsicwzp76s.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140609_164124_417_zpsbwy7lurb.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140609_164124_417_zpsbwy7lurb.jpg.html)

[donkeysaudi]

I'm hooked. I want to watch this thread forever.

[bhusted]

I'm hooked. I want to watch this thread forever.

I'll try to live up to your expectations.

[bhusted]

Boring Sunday night, so I thought to myself, "What would Lukas (BaseDrifter) do?" And so, I decided to polish the bolts for my valve covers. I cleaned and painted the valve covers while I had the engine apart, but just reused the original, dirty hardware.

Before:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140615_201940_154_zpsxidtur63.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140615_201940_154_zpsxidtur63.jpg.html)

After:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140615_202304_433_zpsnfcqyxre.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140615_202304_433_zpsnfcqyxre.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140615_202517_462_zpsgg44gdpw.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140615_202517_462_zpsgg44gdpw.jpg.html)

I still have more to do, but it gave me something to do for a couple of hours on a Sunday night.

At the same time I started mocking up what it would look like with a "lid" on the heat shield I made previously. The thought occurred to me to reuse the original plastic cover, but I must have tossed it with the airbox. I don't really want to unless it will make a difference in intake temp. I still need to do some temp logs to see if the shield itself made any difference.

[bhusted]

Not a V8 specific update, but I've decided to go to my first show. Planning to attend WaterWerks on the Green in North Bend, WA on Sunday. Not that I'll enter my car into the judging, but I don't want to be 'that guy' that parks his dirty car among the spotless. The exterior panels of the car were already reasonably clean, but things like the door jams and trunk area were filthy. It's amazing the difference a couple of rags, an old tooth brush and a bottle of simple green can make. Here are some pictures of the trunk area before and after.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_112758_791_zpsezj5ltgi.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_112758_791_zpsezj5ltgi.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_112807_880_zpsxztohnrn.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_112807_880_zpsxztohnrn.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_112821_919_zpsephlqgfa.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_112821_919_zpsephlqgfa.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_120611_659_zpsgvbb1tus.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_120611_659_zpsgvbb1tus.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_120619_066_zpspk5vpe31.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_120619_066_zpspk5vpe31.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_120625_538_zps4wbwxfq9.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_120625_538_zps4wbwxfq9.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_120636_495_zpsrvrhuxoa.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140624_120636_495_zpsrvrhuxoa.jpg.html)

[SquishyPanda]

clean-ass nooks and crannies.jpg

That is suddenly near the top of my to-do list, right after dealing with the cracked coolant flange.

[bhusted]

^ Thanks for renaming that picture for me. The cleaning and prep continued today and I'm about sick of it. I added the most important part today.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20140626_120714_194_zpsvmxad5ko.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20140626_120714_194_zpsvmxad5ko.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

Spent some time today replacing some of the cheap, worm clamps that I sourced during the swap with Oetiker band clamps. I know that some owners have a love/hate relationship with these, but I think they look much better and give the swap the OEM look.

This:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_105023_652_zps2shus00f.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_105023_652_zps2shus00f.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_105720_514_zpseyhbhjso.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_105720_514_zpseyhbhjso.jpg.html)

To this:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_105258_014_zpsls16nyqu.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_105258_014_zpsls16nyqu.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_110148_651_zpssqflmlva.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_110148_651_zpssqflmlva.jpg.html)

Another thing I've been wanting to do is build some sort of cover for the fuel rails. Here's what I've come up with thus far. The final product would be made from aluminum and painted black.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_130147_926_zpsl5gsibm0.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_130147_926_zpsl5gsibm0.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_115935_104_zpsu4vl3zix.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140701_115935_104_zpsu4vl3zix.jpg.html)

The fuel pressure regulator is in a really inconvenient location. I'm open to ideas. What do you think?

[27litres]

You could angle it up over the regulator and extend it similar to the other side, ending near the inlet hoses. If you wanted to keep the little angled tabs down towards the valve covers to finish it off, you would probably need to weld it. How good are you with a TIG?

Can you get an OE engine cover to fit? You're expansion tank may be too close, but you could trim it, and I'm not sure how it will fit without the valve-cover covers:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k4DWO3h0Kis/U7N4g21KWyI/AAAAAAAACgE/3UtSDerOdrw/w720-h540-no/393175_176658629097220_384610642_n.jpg

It's funny how hindsight is a wonderful thing... I was just thinking to myself "My old Holden used to have some nice neat fuel rail covers for the 5L V8 that Holden had made once they injected it" - turned out that by modern standards they're a bit clunky! Not bad though:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8alBDf6GS_I/U7N7vX3FBKI/AAAAAAAACgc/YqSI4gzpiiY/w996-h747-no/Berlina+Engine.jpg

[bhusted]

Those Holden covers are more like what I was looking for. The more I look at it, I wonder what it would look like if I could make the stock cover fit. I wish that one had come with the parts car when I started this. Maybe I'll just buy one and see how it looks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-2000-AUDI-A6-C5-4-2-PLASTIC-ENGINE-MOTOR-COVER-OEM-/261504673110?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AAudi&hash=item3ce2e4a556&vxp=mtr

[27litres]

My valve-cover covers are off my engine at the moment.
I'll put the top cover on and take a photo so you can see what it goes over and how it looks...

[bhusted]

My valve-cover covers are off my engine at the moment.
I'll put the top cover on and take a photo so you can see what it goes over and how it looks...

Thanks!

[bhusted]

I noticed that the connector plug for my MAF was failing and ordered a replacement. At the same time I ordered rubber boots for the coil connectors. If anyone is interested, the part numbers are below.

MAF: 1J0973775A
4 Wire Boot: 4B0906102

Here's the original failing connector.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_140900_224_zpsgjzto0zp.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_140900_224_zpsgjzto0zp.jpg.html)

Here's the replacement. You can see that the red retainer is completely missing from the original.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_140949_550_zpsvdyfrv6g.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_140949_550_zpsvdyfrv6g.jpg.html)


Installing the rubber boots on the coil connectors proved to be more challenging than I thought it would be. Begin by removing the pink retainer.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_145656_714_zpspcx021zq.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_145656_714_zpspcx021zq.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_145734_257_zpslk2nnny0.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_145734_257_zpslk2nnny0.jpg.html)

Then, go raid your girlfriend/fiance/wife/strange girl you met on the street's purse for some hair pins. If you can't find any, drive your HOT German car around until you find some. Cut the straight ends off and bend them as such.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_145804_299_zpsaz6thyur.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_145804_299_zpsaz6thyur.jpg.html)

Insert them into the connector above and below the wire pin. Push the hairpins in and gently pull the wire out. It does not take a lot of force. If it does not want to come out, try repositioning the pins.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_145855_827_zpscubfayno.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_145855_827_zpscubfayno.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_150103_771_zps8yqewjh0.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_150103_771_zps8yqewjh0.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_150350_373_zps5d7liup1.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_150350_373_zps5d7liup1.jpg.html)

This is the point where I stopped taking pictures as it is the most frustrating part. The boots are meant to go over the wires before the ends are crimped on, so getting the crimped ends through the narrow end is a challenge. I used some external snap ring pliers to spread the boot while I stuffed the wire pins through. The best advice I have is to apply lube to the inside of the boot. After some cussing and gnashing of teeth, all eight were installed.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_144751_515_zpsbdaf5rgb.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_144751_515_zpsbdaf5rgb.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_154140_571_zpszm32kcmt.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_154140_571_zpszm32kcmt.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_163833_516_zpsdl6s1zib.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_163833_516_zpsdl6s1zib.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_164304_245_zpsdjhruqpj.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140703_164304_245_zpsdjhruqpj.jpg.html)

[BrucexL33]

I haven't followed your thread in awhile but did you ever find out how much power you are making? Is it tuned? I love your car. haha

[MarcusDubya77]

This is an awesome build!

[bhusted]

Thanks. I've never had the car on a dyno. They had a mobile dyno at WaterWerks, but only 2WD. [:(] From the factory the 4.2 is supposed to be a little over 300hp and 300 ft-lbs. The only ECU tuning was to make it complain less about the lack of TCU to talk to and to delete SAI. If I happened across a set of S6 cams and intake manifold I wouldn't turn them down. I could probably also make some more power with some exhaust work. All in good time.

[BrucexL33]

Thanks. I've never had the car on a dyno. They had a mobile dyno at WaterWerks, but only 2WD. [:(] From the factory the 4.2 is supposed to be a little over 300hp and 300 ft-lbs. The only ECU tuning was to make it complain less about the lack of TCU to talk to and to delete SAI. If I happened across a set of S6 cams and intake manifold I wouldn't turn them down. I could probably also make some more power with some exhaust work. All in good time.

Which year and model did you take the v8 from?

[bhusted]

The donor was a 2000 A6. Engine code ART.

[wolfe2118]

Have you figured out if the heat shield does any good? I don't have a shield, but I'm thinking about making a few fiberglass parts, one being an air box, the other being a fan shroud. I like fiberglass/carbon fiber because it's so easy to build a mold and to shape. I'm ready to start making mine look pretty now that everything has been working right since January.

[bhusted]

I've neglected to do some data logging to see if the heat shield makes any difference. Other life projects have been getting in the way, but it's still on my list. I've never really worked with fiberglass/CF. That's something else I should experiment with. I'd like to see what you come up with for heat shield and fan shroud.

[27litres]

My valve-cover covers are off my engine at the moment. I'll put the top cover on and take a photo so you can see what it goes over and how it looks... Thanks!
Sorry, finally got to it!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hja9S47K0QGHW6MhX2T5QjrQs-4zPKlP3zvsBoEn9b4=w408-h229-p-no
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/BycCI_koBnzxknMzBlmZH5knHLg64Xp3LmJA5yZhnpg=w408-h229-p-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dGAjn2wMWXOJvyWVBbteNkj2076uQx1bpNez0aXCaIQ=w407-h229-p-no

[bhusted]

Thanks. That actually looks pretty good with just the top cover. I may have to buy one of those. Is the red outline on the front only on the 'S' models?

[27litres]

I think so.
But they all have the "V8 4.2" badge the same, just usually with a silver outline, so you can always dig out your can of red paint and a paint brush [;)]

[bhusted]

While I was out running some errands today, the car stalled on me pulling into a parking lot. When I started it again, it seemed to have a misfire and didn't want to idle. I limped it home and scanned it to find that the MAF was reading 0.00g/s. I bought the reman Bosch MAF less than a year ago, so now I'm looking for the receipt for any warranty info. I should also check the wiring to the sensor. Very frustrating.

In other news, I spent part of today making some reinforcement brackets for the rear sway bar mounts. Neuspeed and 034 want $170 just for the brackets. I made these for about $30. I'll take some more pictures once I get them installed with the new sway bar.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20140715_152646_442_zps7ml9gt5l.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20140715_152646_442_zps7ml9gt5l.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

I wasn't planning on installing the rear sway bar reinforcements until the sway bar came in, but with the dead MAF I got bored and decided to just go ahead and do it. Everything went as planned. The worst part of installing these is getting the nut on the back side of the upper bolts were the lower control arm mounts. It's not necessarily a flaw in my design as all aftermarket brackets seem to mount here and would have the same problem.

Before:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140716_122842_605_zpsldsgdpkl.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140716_122842_605_zpsldsgdpkl.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140716_122907_209_zpsg0abyqbn.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140716_122907_209_zpsg0abyqbn.jpg.html)

After:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140716_124842_040_zpslll2onyt.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140716_124842_040_zpslll2onyt.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140716_124901_906_zps79x1d38o.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140716_124901_906_zps79x1d38o.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140716_131056_968_zpsqvrevlzc.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140716_131056_968_zpsqvrevlzc.jpg.html)

I can't really drive it right now to see if this makes any difference with just the stock S4 bar installed, but I did notice that before I could flex the mounting tabs by hand. Now the mounts feel rock solid.

[KraemerSXED]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10517537_10152560701858126_4003736165514808174_n.j pg

This is how my cover looks. I don't even use it though because it restricts to much air flow for the tight engine bay. I mean my motor never ran to hot with it on but I didn't like it.

[lazerreda4]

just got my brothers b5.5 Passat just about done. one last thing is to wire in pin 21 for power. and was wondering what diode you ran on that pin on your setup?

[bhusted]

This (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062591) is the diode I'm using currently, though I'm not quite happy with it. I've got 2 in series and still get occasional strange shutdown behavior from the ECU. It's a cheap way to get it up and running for now. Make sure you orient the cathode (the side with the line) toward the ECU. To replace the diodes, I'm going to run a 5 pin relay where pin-21 is connected to pin-30 on the relay, 87 is +12v and 87a is ground. I'm hoping that by dumping pin-21 to ground when the ignition is turned off, I can eliminate the shutdown issues.

Edit: Link doesn't appear to work. You can get the diodes at Radio Shack. Part# 276-1661

[lazerreda4]

used that diode and it is working now. but if issues arise we will do the relay mod. thanks for your help

[bhusted]

It's interesting that I got different behavior than you using the same part. Did you use one or two diodes? What source did you use for power?

[lazerreda4]

1 diode. we had a old fuse box laying around out of a jetta. so we pulled a few pinned wires out of it and stuck them in a open fuse port in the Passat fuse box. ran the wire from pin 21 with the diode to one side. then ran a switched power wire to the other side. used a 5amp fuse to connect them. been working so far with no side affects. only been a day though

[bhusted]

Where did you pull your switched power from?

[lazerreda4]

we tapped into fuse 7. have a speedo cluster question were I have the 02 a6 cluster in my car. the dimmer for the cluster is next to the headlight switch and not in the cluster. question is there a way to wire in the dimmer switch? and the fuel gauge is off. is there a way to get that working correctly? only reason I want to keep the a6 cluster is the center display is mint. my original cluster is toast.

[bhusted]

I don't know of any way to keep the dimmer or fix the fuel gauge. This is why I chose to use a 2000+ S4 cluster instead of the A6 cluster. In the mean time you may want to send out your cluster to have the LCD replaced.

[lazerreda4]

I figured was a no go. I will see about getting mine fixed. I will use it until then though

[walky_talky20]

I think VCDS can do some adaptation on the fuel gauge. Not sure if it could get it all the way back, but worth a shot. And the external dimmer should just be a couple wires, right? And then hide the control.

[lazerreda4]

had both clusters apart and the original a4 cluster dimmer looks like it could be soldered on to the a6 board. my soldering skills are weak though. don't want to burn anything up. hahha

[bhusted]

Getting tired of the strange shutdown behavior and decided to work on it today. Previously I had been using two rectifier diodes in series connected to pin 21 at the ECU and getting switched power from fuse #7. When the key is turned off, the engine will stumble and eventually stall. Cutting power to pin 21 causes the engine to shutdown immediately. I decided to "fix" this by installing a SPDT relay inline with the ECU power. A diagram of my work is below.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/ECURelay_zps3e2a060d.png (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/ECURelay_zps3e2a060d.png.html)

I figured that having the relay here would simulate cutting power to pin 21. With the new relay the engine won't even shut down. Somehow the ECU is still getting power. Pulling fuse 7 will cause it to shutdown immediately. Anyone have any idea of how/why the ECU is able to keep the ignition from turning off? I thought for sure that this would solve the problem. I don't get it.

[bhusted]

Still working on this. Anyone have any ideas? I've also tried going back to the two diodes and adding a resistor in the line to drop down the voltage to the pin. No difference from just running the two diodes. I'm at a loss here...

[Mad Cow]

This is why I just gave up on 'good enough' with mine, every time I looked into it I just got more confused. I have a feeling it has something to do with the immo, even though it's disabled through software I have a suspicion that the ECU hardware is different enough to cause these weird issues. I'm running an immo ECU at the moment and I'm looking for a cheap non-immo ECU to test my theory, if it works then that will really narrow down the possibilities. It really sucks that there's next to no documentation on how the J271 relay actually works since there's definitely some electrical trickery going on in OEM configuration.

[bhusted]

Do you just live with the constant CEL because of this? I'm fairly certain that a CEL is an instant fail with I go in for emissions testing. The frustrating thing is that I've done exactly what others have done and been successful with and yet it doesn't work for me. What setup are you using to deal with this?

[Mad Cow]

I don't get a CEL, I'll get a code for voltage too low occasionally but that doesn't trip the CEL. I currently have J271 wired in as close to stock AWM spec as I can, I even tapped the same fuse for switched 12v. That's why it's so weird to me, it should work just fine since it's a 100% copy of how it's done from the factory, to my knowledge, and it still doesn't work right.

[bhusted]

Maybe I should try that. There must be some gremlins that live in that relay. Every shutdown I get a slight hesitation, stumble, and beep from the cluster as the engine dies. This throws lots of false codes and is super frustrating.

[rusky04]

One of the ecu power wires runs to this
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/ae127/rusky04/IMAG0139_zps853abc1f.jpg (http://s964.photobucket.com/user/rusky04/media/IMAG0139_zps853abc1f.jpg.html)

http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/ae127/rusky04/IMAG0138_zps4c205f84.jpg (http://s964.photobucket.com/user/rusky04/media/IMAG0138_zps4c205f84.jpg.html)

Move that ecu power wire to another source, it helped me I had similar issue

[bhusted]

Thanks. I'll give that a look tomorrow.

[rusky04]

any updates if it fixed your issue? if not, rewire the other power wire that runs to the ecu, leave the one from above at the source you wired it to . that should do it.

[bhusted]

I've been doing some work on the car in the past couple of weeks. My two year emissions test is due at the end of the month. I still need to work on the ECU power problem with the "stumble" shutdown, but after a lot a thrashing around I've replaced the two downstream O2 sensors. Both were giving me consistent codes, so I bit the bullet and went for it. The passenger side sensor went fine, but the driver side one was heavily corroded and when I removed it, many of the threads from the sensor were left behind in the hole. Much time later with a tap, the second sensor went in.

Now my only codes are:
17070 - ECM Power Relay Control Circuit (J271): Short to GND
P0686 - 35-00 - -
16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High
P0113 - 35-00 - -
17931 - Crash Signal from Airbag Controller: Implausible Signal
P1523 - 35-00 - -
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
P1649 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

The first one I think is semi-permanent as I don't have the ECM power relay and all attempts to replicate it have resulted in failure. I think the last three are as a result of the occasional "stumble" on shutdown. I'll try rusky's idea and see if that stops these codes from popping up. With these codes present, will the ECU still do the tests necessary to set readiness?

[Mad Cow]

I get the last 2 codes too, nothing to worry about since they don't even throw the CEL. I ended up removing them from the DTC table so they never show up but that's not necessary. First one shouldn't cause any problems either, AFAIK it doesn't trip the CEL either. As for the IAT sensor code, have you tried replacing the sensor? It could just be bad. Check the readiness monitors with a generic OBD2 scan tool, vcds doesn't show the difference between passed and unsupported. I just did an emissions test recently too and it passed every single monitor after I coded out SAI and cat monitoring, you'll probably be fine too. Worst case, look up your state's emission test laws, I found out that since my car's a '99 I can have up to 3 monitors not passed, might be similar for you.

[bhusted]

That's good to know about VCDS not showing the difference between not supported and failed. I should do more reading for the test, but a CEL is an automatic fail. According to this (http://eti-home.org/State%20I-M%202012/State%20Files%20for%20Web/Washington.pdf) it looks like I can have 2 "Not Ready".

I did some research tonight about the IAT and I think that it's integrated into the MAF on the V8 cars. The MAF is essentially new and I get the same code with my spare one, which makes me think it is false.

[Mad Cow]

If you pass the readiness portion but still have a CEL, maybe look into temporarily disabling the IAT code for the test. Probably best to ask the ever-helpful ddilenger about that.

[bhusted]

I may need to talk to him about that. I cleared the code again and made it through 2 long drives and a short trip before the IAT code came back. I still think it's the shutdown that's causing a false code to pop up. I'll work on the ecu power source that rusky mentioned and see if that clears it up. I'm getting tired of the cluster beeping at me every time I shut it down though.

[k0mpresd]

those missing message dtc's can be coded out very easily in a few different ways.
iat code can be removed as well without much of a fuss.

you can check the sensor in a measuring block just to confirm its working correctly.

[bhusted]

Thanks. I may be coming to you for some guidance on getting rid of some of those dtc's. I'm going to do log of the IAT just to make it's all good.

[bhusted]

Still working on this... It seems that the CEL will stay off for 3 cycles of the ignition switch and then it will come up with the IAT code. I worked for several hours last night and this morning trying to track down the stumble on shutdown, but I'm still coming up empty.

I think that this all stems from the lack of the infamous "ECM Power Relay". I've been experimenting with replicating the relay in many different ways and no matter what I do, I get a short stumble from the engine and beeping from the cluster when I turn off the key.

[mk1 rabbit gti]

Have you tried using an 01 harness and ecu?

[bhusted]

Have you tried using an 01 harness and ecu?

I am using an '01 ECU now that I've switched to the AWN ECU. I also re-pinned the ECU plugs in the engine harness to match the newer ECU. For all intents and purposes it is an AWN harness. The issue comes from running the ECU with older body harness and how the ECU receives power. Short of using a 2000+ dash/body harness on the car, I don't know what to do...

[Mad Cow]

There's got to be something about the DBC dash harness that causes this, maybe it could even be some sort of module or something that's different. I personally think it's something to do with the ECU power and immo circuits. I just find it odd how we both have the same problem but very different symptoms. You have the shutoff stumble and IAT code, while I get the ECU staying powered for half an hour after shutoff and the motor not shutting off as quickly as it does when compared to manually removing power from the ECU.

[mk1 rabbit gti]

I would have thought the 99.5 and 2000/01 dash harness would be the same. Have you tried messaging a4v8swap on motorgeek? He might be able to help you with the wiring issues.

[bhusted]

I would have thought the 99.5 and 2000/01 dash harness would be the same. Have you tried messaging a4v8swap on motorgeek? He might be able to help you with the wiring issues.

The difference in the dash harness is DBW vs DBC. Additionally, the ECU file I'm using is meant to utilize an immobilizer, which was not equipped on any B5 sold in North America. Fooling the ECU into thinking that the immobilizer is okay is a combination of hardware and software. I have spoken to him and he just ran with the automatic trans ECU, so he did not have this issue. I had none of these issues until swapping to the flashed AWN ECU. The issues it created are far less than the ones it solved, so at least it was progress.


There's got to be something about the DBC dash harness that causes this, maybe it could even be some sort of module or something that's different. I personally think it's something to do with the ECU power and immo circuits. I just find it odd how we both have the same problem but very different symptoms. You have the shutoff stumble and IAT code, while I get the ECU staying powered for half an hour after shutoff and the motor not shutting off as quickly as it does when compared to manually removing power from the ECU.

I have to agree with you about the ECU and immobilizer circuit as the cause. I've considered adding a separate toggle switch to cut power to pin 21 before turning off the key to get proper shutdown. I thought I'd be achieving this by adding a relay to the immobilizer power circuit.

[mk1 rabbit gti]

Who flashed your ecu? Sounds like your problems can be fixed by deleting and flashing an s6 manual tune.

[bhusted]

Who flashed your ecu? Sounds like your problems can be fixed by deleting and flashing an s6 manual tune.

I am running a manual S6 file, but as the S6 was only offered as a manual in Europe, I'm stuck with the immobilizer part as well.

[Mad Cow]

Who flashed your ecu? Sounds like your problems can be fixed by deleting and flashing an s6 manual tune.

It's nothing to do with the flash, it's definitely a hardware problem since I have a completely different ECU that has problems in the same circumstances. The J271 relay is a weird thing, I've spent hours reading up on it, I've even read the official Bosch documentation, but I still don't understand it. It's a part of the power circuit, but it acts differently when attached to an immo ECU, there's some weird electrical trickery going on. Usually the ECU grounds the coil, but there are also some circumstances where it'll feed 12v into the same pin that's usually grounded (pin 21), no idea why. Here's a wild guess: maybe the ECU doesn't go through the conditions needed to open the relay because of the loss of immo components/circuit (maybe it's waiting for a certain canbus message or voltage on a certain pin), so it keeps it powered until the main power capacitor inside the ECU drains enough that it can't keep the relay closed anymore. Or it could just be a side effect of the craziness used to make the relay work like I said earlier.

I've considered adding a toggle switch between the relay and pin 21 too, hacky as all hell but probably the best way to keep yourself from pulling all your hair out.

[bhusted]

I've considered adding a toggle switch between the relay and pin 21 too, hacky as all hell but probably the best way to keep yourself from pulling all your hair out.

I'm glad that I'm not the only one pulling my hair out over this. One of the things that baffles me is that adding a standard 5pin relay inline cannot sufficiently isolate that pin.

[mk1 rabbit gti]

If you didn't have any problems before switching to a 01+ ecu, then it's either the ecu, or the body harness not communicating with the ecu. I'd put the 2000 ecu back in until you can swap out to a newer dash harness. No sense pulling your hair out if you don't have to. Just my 2 cents.

[bhusted]

If you didn't have any problems before switching to a 01+ ecu, then it's either the ecu, or the body harness not communicating with the ecu. I'd put the 2000 ecu back in until you can swap out to a newer dash harness. No sense pulling your hair out if you don't have to. Just my 2 cents.

I'd rather go bald than swap the dash harness.

[mk1 rabbit gti]

Just out of curiosity, did you look to see if the s6 body plug pinout is the same as an a6? I'm not 100% sure, but maybe using the s6 file with the a6 harness being wired differently into the car may have something to do with it?

[bhusted]

Went in for an emissions test today. I wasn't real optimistic about passing, but I figured I would give it a shot. You never know until you try, right? My strategy was to clear the IAT code and then drive around for a while until the readiness monitors were set. I drove for about an hour in mixed conditions: freeway, city streets, stop and go traffic. Then I went straight to the testing place. No CEL, but failed readiness. I did some more reading when I got home about using VCDS to force the ECU to run the tests. I found this on the Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Readiness_-_APB_Engine_Code). It says engine code APB, but I found that all of the same measuring blocks applied to me except 071.


Ignition ON and Engine ON at idle


Fuel leakage test

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Select group 071
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads Syst.OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]


Evap purge test

Select group 070
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads EVAP OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]


A/F control test

Select group 107
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads Syst.OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]


Ignition ON and Engine ON between 1800 and 2200 rpm


O2 sensor heater test

Select group 041
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until there are kOhm readings in the first and third fields
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]
Select group 042
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until there are kOhm readings in the first and third fields
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]


Ignition ON and Engine ON at idle


Post-cat O2 sensors readiness test

Select group 036
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until you see B1-S2 OK in the first field and B2-S2 OK in the third field
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]


Ignition ON and Engine ON between 1520 and 2280 rpm


Pre-cat O2 sensors response time test

Select group 034
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads B1-S1 OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]
Select group 035
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads B2-S1 OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]


Ignition ON and Engine ON at idle


O2 sensor control test

Select group 037
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads Syst. OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]
Select group 038
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads Syst. OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]


Post-cat O2 sensor aging test

Select group 043
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads B1-S2 OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]
Select group 044
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads B2-S2 OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]


Ignition ON and Engine ON between 1880 and 2280 rpm


Catalytic converter test

Select group 046
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads CAT B1 OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]
Select group 047
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads CAT B2 OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]


Ignition ON and Engine ON at idle


Secondary air injection test (applies to Auto Trans vehicles only!)

Select group 077
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads Syst. OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]
Select group 078
[Go]
[Switch to basic settings]
Leave it in Basic Settings until the fourth field reads Syst. OK
[Switch to Meas. Blocks]
[Done, Go Back]


Checking Readiness
[Readiness]
Make sure none of the fields say Failed or Incomplete
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back]

So I took another drive on the freeway to get the cats good and hot and then pulled off in a parking lot. I can get through to running the "pre-cat O2 response time" 034 test and no matter what I do I can't seem to get the test to even begin. Cat temperatures while I was attempting were in the 575-600C range. Has anyone else run into this? The CEL is only half of my issue. It seems the ECU also refuses to do some of the readiness tests...

[Mad Cow]

Have you reflashed the ECU at all? I was having some really weird O2 sensor issues after I flashed a different SW version, had to bootmode flash, followed by a normal flash to fix the "programming not completed error" since it apparently didn't 100% overwrite the old bin with just a regular flash for some reason.

[bhusted]

I started noticing a rattle/clunking sound from my front suspension and did some investigating this morning. I've had these Agency Power links installed for about a month and some of that time it wasn't even being driven because of the emissions test I was trying to pass. All four spherical bearings had this much play in them. I liked the way they made the car respond, but not the noise. We'll see if they respond to my message.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycqECfEHyR8

While in there I decided to knock loose the stainless pinch bolts I installed almost 2 years ago. The passenger side took just a couple of taps with the deadblow and the driver side just slid right out. I lubed both up with more anti-seize and tightened them back down. I hope that I never have to fight with them as other owners have.

[xdewaynex]

I need to look into getting some stainless pinch bolts, so I wont have to go through the trouble of drilling them out again. I put anti seize on the replacements but its been a while since I last removed them. Hope you get something figured out with the end links.

[MetalMan]

Also curious to hear your experience with Agency Power, since I've had the same front endlinks for ~3.5 years now.

[bhusted]

Also curious to hear your experience with Agency Power, since I've had the same front endlinks for ~3.5 years now.

Have you had any issues with yours?

[haliceaa4]

http://breakoutmotorsports.com/

Contact Brandon here he did a v8 swap a4 and they also tune it not sure if it helps u but it may they are also on facebook

[MetalMan]

Have you had any issues with yours?

Not that I know of. Every once in a while I jiggle the endlinks around in an attempt to check for play (even though it might not be effective) and haven't noticed anything. Could be that when I check them they have a load on them and therefore wouldn't exhibit any play (if they do have play).

[bhusted]

http://breakoutmotorsports.com/

Contact Brandon here he did a v8 swap a4 and they also tune it not sure if it helps u but it may they are also on facebook

Thanks. I did use their site as a reference for adding the clutch switch for the ECU. I think I've finally gotten all of the tuning stuff figured out. Ddillenger worked his magic on the ECU and passed the emissions and no more CEL. Now that the tuning is sorted out I'm thinking of redoing my exhaust. Currently it's just the 2.8 system all hacked up to fit. I want to make a nicer looking setup that's just a tad louder.


Not that I know of. Every once in a while I jiggle the endlinks around in an attempt to check for play (even though it might not be effective) and haven't noticed anything. Could be that when I check them they have a load on them and therefore wouldn't exhibit any play (if they do have play).

If yours were anything like mine, you'd hear the play every time you drove on a road not smooth as glass. Very loud and annoying. I spoke to the customer service at Agency Power today about it and at first I thought they were just going to stick it to me. I leveled with the guy and told him that they are not installed on a Subaru. After I sent him the video link and he had his manager look at it, they want me to ship the links to them so that they can evaluate what's wrong. I'm not real sure where that leaves me, but I might as well see what they have to say.

[haliceaa4]

What did u have to do with the downpipe to make them fit the 4.2 mani

[bhusted]

What did u have to do with the downpipe to make them fit the 4.2 mani

The flanges fit fine, but the length of the downpipe made it so that the cats hung down quite low. I ended up chopping out part of each downpipe to get them to fit better. Now that I've got the rear O2's coded out I'd like to make a set of larger diameter downpipes without cats.

[haliceaa4]

I'm looking for one and will be eliminating that cats I'm in the process of my build just gathering parts atm. I'm using a 2001 a4 and the ART which I'll have to rewire for the me7.1.1 ecu

[haliceaa4]

Other then cutting the radiator support anu thing special with fitting the mk4 radiator?

[bhusted]

Both the inlet and outlet on the radiator had to be cut and turned so that they wouldn't be pointed straight into the timing covers. The MK4 radiator has support pins on the end tanks. I cut them off to make room and then welded two of them to the bottom to utilize the stock lower mounts.

[mk1 rabbit gti]

I'll be using the xs power b6/b7 down pipes considering that the b6/b7 headers I bought and wrapped don't fit.

[haliceaa4]

Yea it's already a tight squeeze I wouldn't think the headers would work unless u cut the floor

[bhusted]

I saw the long tube headers that XS makes for the B6/7 S4. TinyTim is using them on his car, but had to cutout part of the floor to make them fit. Do you know how well the B6/7 cat-less downpipes fit? It would be nice to only have to fabricate the rear part.

[haliceaa4]

Is this what ur talking about?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/121559500842?nav=SEARCH

[bhusted]

Yes.

[mk1 rabbit gti]

I'm not sure if or how well they fit. I haven't bought them yet. I'm going to assume if the a6 dp's fit the b6/7 dp's should fit as well.

[bhusted]

That's a lot to pay not knowing if they will fit. I'd hate to have to cut them up and weld them to make them fit. I'll probably just fabricate my own downpipes with mild steel and have them coated.

[mk1 rabbit gti]

Little pissed the headers don't fit. The downpipes would be easier to resell if I can't get them to fit without cutting.

[haliceaa4]

I'm really not sure what to do lol Can't seem to find 2.8 down pipes easy. And ur right I don't wanna spend the cash not knowing if they will fit

[Mad Cow]

Why not go full custom? Downpipes aren't exactly complicated, just a few bends, a flex section, and a flange. Any competent exhaust shop will be able to do it for not much more than those downpipes, and you know it'll fit.

[bhusted]

I am planning to fabricate the whole system. No exhaust shop around here is going to be willing to make cat-less downpipes. My plan is to mock up all of the bends that I want by heating and bending PVC and then taking it to a shop and paying to have the whole thing bent. Then I just need to cut for flex joints/silencers and weld it all together.

[Mad Cow]

You sure you want to go catless? Everyone says the smell isn't bad but it really is, I can't even go into a parking garage without stinking the place up. A pair of cheap spun HFCs would get rid of the smell and still flow enough to not choke the motor.

[bhusted]

You make a good point. I really just didn't want to have to buy new cats.

[Mad Cow]

You can buy a pair of spun HFCs for scrap value of your old cats, they're dirt cheap.

[bhusted]

Thanks. I'll look into that. If I'm putting in HFCs maybe the local exhaust shops would be more inclined to work with me.

On a totally unrelated note, I've removed the combi valves and any other remaining components of the SAI system with the exception of the N112 solenoid. I've read that people like to use a 330 ohm 10W resister to keep the ECU from throwing a code. The power rating seems like an awful lot. Is the ECU really driving this solenoid at almost 1A? Anyone have experience with this?

[mk1 rabbit gti]

I've removed all my sai including the N112 solenoid with out any issues. Just get it coded out. I don't know forsure without looking at a schematic, but the ecu probably controls ground to the solenoid.

[haliceaa4]

Do u think the a6 4.2 down pipes will fit?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

[bhusted]

Do u think the a6 4.2 down pipes will fit?

I don't know.


I've removed all my sai including the N112 solenoid with out any issues. Just get it coded out. I don't know forsure without looking at a schematic, but the ecu probably controls ground to the solenoid.

It was going to be coded out, but got missed. Rather than send the ECU back, I figured I could just add a resistor of appropriate size and be done with it. For now I've just got the solenoid plugged in and stuffed down behind the engine.

[bhusted]

Got a message back from Agency Power. They say that they were able to fix the situation with my endlinks and that they are shipping them back today.

[bhusted]

It's been a little quiet around here. I have this week off from work so I decided to tackle one of the projects I've been meaning to do since the swap. While I've never really had an issue with cooling, there have been occasions where the needle will move a little past center when running hard with higher ambient temps. The factory radiator includes some baffles on the edges to force air through the radiator rather than around it. Needless to say, these would not fit with the new setup. I set out to make my own with some sheets of aluminum.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150406_134006763_HDR_zpsqxp1sntj.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150406_134006763_HDR_zpsqxp1sntj.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150406_134013432_HDR_zpsboc7hbcm.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150406_134013432_HDR_zpsboc7hbcm.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150406_134022667_zpslu2pd5ah.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150406_134022667_zpslu2pd5ah.jpg.html)

You may also notice that this project necessitated the relocation of the power steering cooler. I replaced the stock unit with a smaller aftermarket one and mounted it near the driver's fog light. This also meant that I needed to cut out the backing on the fog light grill so that it would actually see any airflow.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150407_142306054_zpspmgtbofb.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150407_142306054_zpspmgtbofb.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150407_142202712_HDR_zpsydjgpuzr.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150407_142202712_HDR_zpsydjgpuzr.jpg.html)

All in all, I feel this was pretty successful, though I can't really test it until the ambient temps get higher.

[bhusted]

Realized after posting those pics that the bolts across the top of the radiator were getting pretty rusty. Replaced them with some stainless ones. I may paint them black to blend in a little better. Also made a block off for the hole in the lock carrier where the original intake duct was attached.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150408_174000096_zpsacl0gd31.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150408_174000096_zpsacl0gd31.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150408_174011829_zps1mrm5rx8.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150408_174011829_zps1mrm5rx8.jpg.html)

[tinytim]

looking good dude!!

[bhusted]

looking good dude!!

Thanks. I'd love to see some more progress on your project.

Today was a HOT day in the greater Seattle area. On my way home from work the dash showed outside temps of 78 degrees. Even in mild, stop and go traffic the fans didn't cycle on at all and the temp gauge never went past center. I'm not one to count my proverbial chickens before they hatch, but I'm thinking this potential issue is resolved. I will probably still add a larger pusher fan at some point just for the peace of mind. In other news, I picked up an OEM RS4 grill over the weekend and got it cleaned up and installed tonight.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150427_214957320_HDR_zpsb4fzlr2w.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150427_214957320_HDR_zpsb4fzlr2w.jpg.html)

[cjt671]

Looking good, great build man.

[ray4624]

looks awesome but why block the duct going to the engine bay?
Any air flow is good air flow

[bhusted]

looks awesome but why block the duct going to the engine bay?
Any air flow is good air flow

Air flow is good, but making that airflow meaningful is better. There is a rubber seal at the top of the lock carrier to keep air from going over the top of the radiator. My theory was that blocking that hole would promote a zone of higher pressure on the outside of the radiator and forcing more air to pass through it. Ideally every molecule of air in the engine bay would have passed through the radiator.

[mk1 rabbit gti]

Ever get your wiring sorted? I'm trying to figure out if I should use my 01 a6 harness or find a s6 harness and start there.

[bhusted]

Yes and no. The cluster still beeps occasionally during shutdown, but I've learned to live with it. I think this is mostly due to the way the ECU is powered. With my chassis being a partial facelift 99.5, the power to the ECU is somehow different. If the chassis you are using is already a DBW chassis, I don't think you would have this problem. I haven't actually had my hands on the S6 harness, but am given to understand that it is significantly different. I would use the A6 harness if your V8 is the ART/AWN from the A6.

[haliceaa4]

I can't get mine to start I'm using a ART with a 2001 a4 I converted it to the me7.1.1 and still no start I have the diode and nothing it cranks doesnt turn over

[haliceaa4]

What wiring did u have to do to get the fuel pump / coils / injectors to work?

[bhusted]

There really wasn't much that I had to do in terms of wiring changes other than modifying the ART harness and adding the DBW pedal. Have you tried connecting to the ECU with VAG-COM? Where did you hook up power to pin 21 from? Terminal 75x is not hot during START, only RUN.

[Mad Cow]

Where did you hook up power to pin 21 from? Terminal 75x is not hot during START, only RUN.

Mine actually started when I had it hooked up to 75x. It caught during that second when the motor's spinning down after the starter's turned off almost every time.

[haliceaa4]

Did u have to rewire the fuel pump relay

[haliceaa4]

There really wasn't much that I had to do in terms of wiring changes other than modifying the ART harness and adding the DBW pedal. Have you tried connecting to the ECU with VAG-COM? Where did you hook up power to pin 21 from? Terminal 75x is not hot during START, only RUN.
I didnt get vag com on it yet I tried using my Bluetooth reader and it wouldn't connect that's where I left it I haven't got a chance to get down to my shop and try to figure it out

[bhusted]

Did u have to rewire the fuel pump relay

I did nothing with the fuel pump relay. If you can't connect to the ECU, chances are it isn't being powered and that's why it won't start.