4.2L V8 Swapped B5 A4

[mk1 rabbit gti]

Mine is a 2000 atw so it's already dbw. The motor I'm using is actually a AUX from a 03 a8.

I've been told 2000+ v6 doesn't need any wiring and 2001 1.8t doesn't need any wiring. Should be just plug and play with a 00/01 a6 harness

Atw cars require wiring to ignition coils, wiring to injectors, and jumping the fuel pump relay to ground.
And Power to pin 22 as far as I know.

[bhusted]

Installed the drivers side fender liner from a S4 yesterday. Hopefully this helps some with extracting more hot air from the engine bay. Still looking for a passenger side.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150612_135323078_zpsosyrzc67.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150612_135323078_zpsosyrzc67.jpg.html)

I picked up some more valve covers on ebay for $64 shipped. Going to have them powder coated. The paint was cheap, but hasn't held up very well. I'm excited to get them installed. I'm also working on planning out a new exhaust. The Milltek downpipes are pretty pricy, so I'm going to fabricate my own. Going with 2.25" for the primaries and then merge into a single 3". Vibrant resonator and muffler. Still trying to decide on the muffler. Thoughts?

Vibrant 1149:
http://autoplicity.com/content/images/624/06241449_0.jpg (http://autoplicity.com/content/images/624/06241449_0.jpg.html)

Vibrant 1047:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/ROWBS2K/Vibrant1047_zpsb8a56906.jpg

[cjt671]

I had planned on powder coating my valve covers but read that sand blasting might leave some sand in the baffles near where the pcv is vented.. Do you plan to just clean the valve covers out real well after? Or are they not being blasted?

[bhusted]

Blasting us a required component to powder coat. There is only one baffle in these covers and it's where the oil filler cap is. The baffle can be removed with screws. That being said, I do intend to ensure they are clean before going on the car.

[Nollywood]

I'm also working on planning out a new exhaust. The Milltek downpipes are pretty pricy, so I'm going to fabricate my own. Going with 2.25" for the primaries and then merge into a single 3". Vibrant resonator and muffler. Still trying to decide on the muffler. Thoughts?

Vibrant 1047:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/ROWBS2K/Vibrant1047_zpsb8a56906.jpg

Vibrant 1047 gets my vote.

With regards heat dispersal in your engine bay...what fan/s are you running? I only ask, because with both my V8 swaps, I never had heat issues. One retained aircon too.

[bhusted]

The fans are fine. I've never had a problem with overheating, but it is one of the things that is always on my mind. It is a big engine crammed into a small space and I want to do what I can to reduce the underhood temps.

[xdewaynex]

I ran the 1149 muffler for a few years until my exhaust broke at the downpipe and I just removed the whole thing. I really liked the sound of it on the 1.8.

[simple2me]

I'm new to the Audi world but I'm loving all the options that are out there to modify and swap drivetrains for these cars. I recently bought a 04 A4 1.8T with CVT for dirt cheap and then purchased another A4 with the 1.8T 5hp19 Quattro setup for $500.00. The Quattro didn't have a motor in it but I mainly purchased for the Quattro setup. I've removed everything from the donor car, inspected for issues, cleaned up and plan on swapping in the suspension, fuel tank, freshly cleaned heat shields, etc... into the car this weekend. I was going to keep the 1.8T for now and do the 2.7T swap later but I just found a complete/running 2003 A6 4.2 AT (5hp24) for $1600.00. The car is super clean but the transmission is bad. I have my 5hp19 already so I can use my transmission & rear-end or I can repair the bad transmission depending on the issue, then swap out the rear-end to keep the correct gearing. Either way I'd like to stuff the 4.2 in my B6. Most of the swaps were older cars (00-01) and seemed straightforward but is the swap that complicated for the 03 a6 to the 04 a4 as far as wiring/immobilizer goes? I plan on using the donor a4 to fit everything first since it's torn apart already and once everything is ready to go I'll pull my DD A4 apart and drop everything in. Any information is appreciated. Thanks

[Audihere!]

Im nearing the end of my 4.2 and 01e swap in my 01.5 avant, I have the same aluminum radiator and getting ready to have a friend alter the angle of the inlet and outlet. Im trying to figure out which parts to use for the ac. I have a 00 a6 parts car along with all the ac stuff from my 1.8t and bought the b5 s4 ac lines that go to the compressor. Not sure which to use. Just got done cutting the core support.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20150609_192325_zpstwrs3uan.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150609_192325_zpstwrs3uan.jpg.html)
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20150420_201848_zpsxqthjehx.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150420_201848_zpsxqthjehx.jpg.html)
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1425359879599_PART_1425359878620_IMG_20120309 _163933_zpsl0qsvvfr.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1425359879599_PART_1425359878620_IMG_20120309 _163933_zpsl0qsvvfr.jpg.html)
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20150616_010733_zps2q4dlzsv.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150616_010733_zps2q4dlzsv.jpg.html)

[bhusted]

It looks like you've made some good progress. I don't know that I would have chosen that particular shade of green, but it's your car. For the A/C, I used all of the V6 components. The compressor bolts up to the stock location on the V8. I reshaped the lines where they cross over in front of the engine and made brackets to fit the condenser on the new radiator. I didn't want to have to discharge and recharge the system.

[Audihere!]

It looks like you've made some good progress. I don't know that I would have chosen that particular shade of green, but it's your car. For the A/C, I used all of the V6 components. The compressor bolts up to the stock location on the V8. I reshaped the lines where they cross over in front of the engine and made brackets to fit the condenser on the new radiator. I didn't want to have to discharge and recharge the system.

I'll he using the 4.2 compressor(hopefully), being that my car was a 1.8 the compressor was on the passenger side. I did get both ac lines off an s4 though(not sure if they are identical to the 2.8). Any advice on mounting the radiator? I read through the thread and saw that you cut the tabs off the sides to make more clearance. I typically build and restore pre 1972 cars so this is a bit different for me. My intake manifold and cams were swapped to s6 and have the euro s6 file with a moderate tune on the ecu(immobilizer is only on auto cars if my research is correct and the euro file is manual)

[Audihere!]

What did you use to bend your ac lines? Was honestly thinkingni could do it by hand but they are stronger than i anticipated haha did you get a line bender or maybe use a vice? Just dont wanna mess em up. Its looking like ill have to use the 4.2 condensor and ac lines, either that or splice together my 1.8 and the 4.2 lines but not sure how grrat that would hold up long term

[B3trayus]

What did you use to bend your ac lines? Was honestly thinkingni could do it by hand but they are stronger than i anticipated haha did you get a line bender or maybe use a vice? Just dont wanna mess em up. Its looking like ill have to use the 4.2 condensor and ac lines, either that or splice together my 1.8 and the 4.2 lines but not sure how grrat that would hold up long term

Dude-go to the Lamb PaP and get 2.8 lines......there is one there that even has the front off.....for easy access-just leave the driver's seat alone. bwahahahahah. I believe u/bhusted did this the way he did because he didnt want to evac and refill his A/C.

I'm in Los Angeles, and there are a ton of A6 and A4's here in the yard i'm at. PM me if you need anything in the next few hours, and I can bring it back to you.

Also, nice to see someone else with taste in Vegas.

[bhusted]

I'll he using the 4.2 compressor(hopefully), being that my car was a 1.8 the compressor was on the passenger side. I did get both ac lines off an s4 though(not sure if they are identical to the 2.8). Any advice on mounting the radiator? I read through the thread and saw that you cut the tabs off the sides to make more clearance. I typically build and restore pre 1972 cars so this is a bit different for me. My intake manifold and cams were swapped to s6 and have the euro s6 file with a moderate tune on the ecu(immobilizer is only on auto cars if my research is correct and the euro file is manual)

The S4 ones are probably similar to the 2.8 lines. I just bent them by hand. Go slow and make small changes. The 4.2 lines would probably work too. For the radiator, I welded some pins to the bottom so that I could use the stock mount bushings. On the top, I welded some tabs to use the stock upper bushings and latches.

The manual euro files still have the immobilizer and will need to be dealt with before you can run it more than 10 seconds.

[Audihere!]

The S4 ones are probably similar to the 2.8 lines. I just bent them by hand. Go slow and make small changes. The 4.2 lines would probably work too. For the radiator, I welded some pins to the bottom so that I could use the stock mount bushings. On the top, I welded some tabs to use the stock upper bushings and latches.

The manual euro files still have the immobilizer and will need to be dealt with before you can run it more than 10 seconds.

Bolted up the s4 lines and they actually hang way down below the oil pan, tried the 4.2 line anf it hugs really nicely, just the end at the evaporator needs to be bent to a new angle. If i ise the 4.2 condensor it has the smaller fitting off the compressor line to the right side of the condensor and the body ac line on the left and looks to be the same overall size. Waiting on a replacement axle and fabricating the radiator to get any further. I do need to figure out the vacuum lines and shorten the fuel lines

[bhusted]

The 2.8 fuel lines fit perfectly with the 4.2. There isn't much to the vacuum lines. I would recommend blocking off the combi valves now and that will simplify things.

[Audihere!]

The 2.8 fuel lines fit perfectly with the 4.2. There isn't much to the vacuum lines. I would recommend blocking off the combi valves now and that will simplify things.

Im trying to source some 2.8 lines, the 4.2 condensor is too wide to sit between the b5 headlights so its no longer an option. The s4 lines are odd, the larger one doesnt even reach and the smaller one has a bolt down style fitting on both ends of it like the compressor side has...

Been waiting for my friend to fab up the radiator but hes really busy lately so may have to get someone else so i can get this beast running. Oh and Im also going to be running evans waterless coolant which has less psi under operating temp than an unshaken can of soda since its boiling point is about 385 degrees. Prettt stoked to get this thing on the road!!!

[Audihere!]

The 2.8 fuel lines fit perfectly with the 4.2. There isn't much to the vacuum lines. I would recommend blocking off the combi valves now and that will simplify things.

I had missread that as just lines and assumed ac lines haha the 1.8 fuel lines are longer on the hard line side so ill have to cut them back

[Audihere!]

Got the radiator, core support and condensor handled today. Still waiting for my axles to arrive to get her back on the ground, then rear diff gets changed to the s4 and can tackle getting the 4.2 downpipes paired to the mtm exhaust.

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20150706_172621_zpsovqakbzt.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150706_172621_zpsovqakbzt.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20150706_113529_zpsbk7snei7.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150706_113529_zpsbk7snei7.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20150706_161259_zpsypg9vufx.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150706_161259_zpsypg9vufx.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20150706_130414_zpsdsu8hslm.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150706_130414_zpsdsu8hslm.jpg.html)

[T.Hell]

Great pictures of the radiator Audihere!. It helps when I (hopefully soon) get my own swap to that point.

Question for bhusted: did I see right that your A4 is a prefacelift? I´m doing the same swap for my 97 A4 2.8 30V and wondering how to get that facelift dbw gas pedal to work. I don´t remember seeing how you did it? Did you get your pedal from that A6? Did you also get that dash harness from it? Or are you using the old A4 dash harness with some mods for the dbw pedal?

[bhusted]

Audihere!, you may want to start your own build thread, so that people can track the progress of your build.

T.Hell, You'll need to swap the entire pedal assembly from a DBW chassis. It does not matter if the DBW setup comes from a manual or automatic, A6 or A4. You can switch out the fat brake pedal for the skinny and add your clutch pedal. This is necessary because of the way the DBW throttle pedal is mounted. The hardest part of doing this is working around the clutch master cylinder in the car. You may want to remove the MC as I ended up damaging it while trying to work around it. IIRC, there are only 3 bolts holding the pedal assembly. One is accessed from under the dash and bolts to the large aluminum bar under the dash. The other two are actually the bolts that hold the brake master cylinder and booster from the engine bay.

For the wiring, I chose to create a separate harness for the throttle pedal cut from the dash harness of my A6 parts car. This essentially adding the white plug to the other body plugs in the ECU box. The other controlls that are on the white plug are the clutch, brake and cruise control signals. You may have some trouble with the other body plugs as I think the style of pins used was different in the earlier years.

[T.Hell]

Thanks for the information about the pedal assembly and wiring. That really helps. I try to find the pedal assembly and dash harness from the same car. Maybe I can replace those other plugs in my old harness and make it work? We shall see...

[Audihere!]

Audihere!, you may want to start your own build thread, so that people can track the progress of your build.

T.Hell, You'll need to swap the entire pedal assembly from a DBW chassis. It does not matter if the DBW setup comes from a manual or automatic, A6 or A4. You can switch out the fat brake pedal for the skinny and add your clutch pedal. This is necessary because of the way the DBW throttle pedal is mounted. The hardest part of doing this is working around the clutch master cylinder in the car. You may want to remove the MC as I ended up damaging it while trying to work around it. IIRC, there are only 3 bolts holding the pedal assembly. One is accessed from under the dash and bolts to the large aluminum bar under the dash. The other two are actually the bolts that hold the brake master cylinder and booster from the engine bay.

For the wiring, I chose to create a separate harness for the throttle pedal cut from the dash harness of my A6 parts car. This essentially adding the white plug to the other body plugs in the ECU box. The other controlls that are on the white plug are the clutch, brake and cruise control signals. You may have some trouble with the other body plugs as I think the style of pins used was different in the earlier years.

Will do, wasnt intending to jack your thread just thought other people and even yourself could offer advice as I went and all that. I'll start a new thread, thanks for the info

[bhusted]

Not a problem at all. I'm happy to share any information I have. It just seemed like it would be easier for you to showcase your work.

[bhusted]

Time for an update. Over the past two days I have been hard at work on the car. While I think that my radiator is appropriately sized for this engine, cooling efficiency is still not very good. Around town, the fans rarely cycle on and when they do, it does not take long before they turn off again. While cruising on the freeway, the fans stay off and the temp gauge stays in the center. Drive hard at freeway speeds (60+ mph) and the temp rises to one mark hotter than center. It has never moved more than this, but does concern me. This is not an issue that can be solved by a fan. At speed, there isn’t a fan capable of moving as much air as is running into the front of the car. My hypothesis is that with the cramped engine compartment, there is little room for the air that has already passed through the radiator to escape, limiting the cooling of the engine.

I’ve attempted to improve things by adding some proper ducting from the bumper to the radiator and added a vented fender liner from a S4 to allow some air to escape. Both of these modifications have been improvements, but the problem still persists. If I’m going to do track time or autocross with the car I want to be sure to have cooling under control.

Things are getting a bit more drastic now. I began investigating the notion of venting the hood to allow hot air to escape. All of the aftermarket hoods for these cars seem to take aesthetics over function when designing vents. Proper placement of the vent is critical, so that air is actually moved out of the engine compartment rather than in. The Honda boys will simply say to put spacers at the trailing edge of the hood, but this is forcing the high pressure air at the base of the windshield to enter the engine compartment, rather than the other way around. I set to measuring the pressure drops across the hood in a meaningful fashion. I marked out 5” squares on one half of my hood with painter’s tape and used digital pressure sensors to measure the pressure difference (top and bottom of hood) at each location. A small hose is located at the center of the square, perpendicular to path of flow, to measure the pressure.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150709_140157680_HDR_zps7tk5qepw.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150709_140157680_HDR_zps7tk5qepw.jpg.html)

I drove multiple passes on the freeway at 60 mph and measured the pressure difference for each location. Units are in kilopascals. Since the results below are the differences, the more negative, the better.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Hood%20Pressure_zpszbps74wg.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Hood%20Pressure_zpszbps74wg.jpg.html)

The two locations marked with an “X” are because the underside of the hood structure wouldn’t allow for me to make a measurement there. The result is fairly clear, that locating the vents closer to the leading edge and off to the side would be best.

An additional problem to contend with is the internal structure of the hood itself. I don’t want cut away too much of the structure of the hood and make it flimsy, so I mapped out where the “ribs” are. This leaves a large area in the center and two smaller areas off to the sides for placement.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150709_135511880_HDR_zpsogvpcnx3.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150709_135511880_HDR_zpsogvpcnx3.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Dimensions_zpsdnyfibkq.png (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Dimensions_zpsdnyfibkq.png.html)

Of course I don’t want this to end up looking terrible, so I’ve been scouring the web for inserts to use when I am ready to cut the holes in the hood. I don’t want to have to mold the vents into the hood, so they must have some sort of lip to mount on the hood. Below are the candidates I’ve found thus far.

TrackSpec C6 Corvette side vents:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/C6%20Corvette_zpsrotssxkn.png (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/C6%20Corvette_zpsrotssxkn.png.html)
These seem very nicely made, but are a bit more function over form than I would prefer. Additionally, I’m waiting to hear back on the overall dimensions.

TrackSpec S2000 vents:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/S2000_zpsh3ftgtdb.png (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/S2000_zpsh3ftgtdb.png.html)
These appear to be a bit larger than the Corvette ones above, but again no dimensions are listed.

Focus RS:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Focus%20RS_zpsyvjpdfli.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Focus%20RS_zpsyvjpdfli.jpg.html)
These are a bit more nicely molded, but I’m not sure of how they will perform. The cutout area seems very limited. I’d also feel the need to paint them to get rid of the gloss black.

Mustang GT:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/Mustang%20GT_zps89aq5qt2.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/Mustang%20GT_zps89aq5qt2.jpg.html)
I think that these are nicer looking than the Focus vents, but may be too long for the space available. These would certainly be more OEM looking.

I’m interested to hear what you guys have to say or if you know of any other vent inserts that can be mounted to the surface.

[Audihere!]

Something to consider is looking into Evans waterless coolant. It has a boiling point of like 385 degrees and builds about as much pressure as an unshaken can of soda. The idea is to get away from water based coolant which will boil and lose its ability to make contact with the surfaces of the cooling system. So even if you are running higher temps on the freeway, it will efficiently continue to keep it that much cooler than a water based that likely has a steady roll of air bubbles at that same temp. It will also make all of your cooling system components last longer because of the lack of pressure on top of the temps and will not leave the deposits on your aluminum surfaces, which is everywhere in these motors and radiator like water will. It is a little pricey at 40-50 a gallon and you are supposed to run their prep fluid through to get below a 3% water to evans coolant ratio. The coolant has a superb warranty on it and will definitely outlast your engine and then you can drain it and put it in the next motor.

[Audihere!]

And if you need to do your own vents, they have kits to diy carbon fiber so you can match the contours of the hood for where you decide to place them. It will be a weekend of work to make them but you definitely are intelligent enough to tackle the task. I have the diy kit website saved somewhere if you want the link. I believe a kit is right about 100 and comes with the epoxy resin and everything

[cjt671]

I think this is an awesome idea, and I appreciate your sort of function over form mentality, while still keeping aesthetics in mind.

Are your exhaust manifolds heat shielded?

[bhusted]

And here I thought that the VW/Audi G12 coolant was expensive. $40/gallon is a bit much. I don't think that this is at all the fault of the coolant. I've never had the coolant boil on me. A 1:1 mixture of G12 and distilled water is said to have a boiling point of 275F. I hope I never get close to that temp. I've never done fiberglass work and don't think I'm really up for making my vents out of CF.

After looking at it some more, I think I'm leaning toward the Mustang vents. I made some cardboard templates to the approximate dimensions that I found on the web. They are a bit long and will require some cutting of the structure of the hood.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150710_145832824_HDR_zpsdvnhdliq.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150710_145832824_HDR_zpsdvnhdliq.jpg.html)

The exhaust manifolds are doubled walled. Rather than cast iron, the stock manifolds are welded stainless with an inner and outer section. You certainly wouldn't want to touch it, but much better than bare cast iron.

[haliceaa4]

Hey guys I have a 2001 audi a4 with a 4.2 from a 2000 audi a6 wired with a 2001 a6 harness and a me7.1.1 ecu. Now I have went over everything and can't seem to figure it out I have fuel but I don't seem to be getting spark.

There is a possibility that I may have messed up the Ecu rewiring the 2000 harness before I switched to the 2001 harness.

The car was once an automatic which I have swapped and pulled to tcm and jumped the relay to bypass the tranny switch.

I have another ecu I'm having the immo defeated and going to try next week.

Just some input would be great maybe I'm missing something..

[Audihere!]

And here I thought that the VW/Audi G12 coolant was expensive. $40/gallon is a bit much. I don't think that this is at all the fault of the coolant. I've never had the coolant boil on me. A 1:1 mixture of G12 and distilled water is said to have a boiling point of 275F. I hope I never get close to that temp. I've never done fiberglass work and don't think I'm really up for making my vents out of CF.

After looking at it some more, I think I'm leaning toward the Mustang vents. I made some cardboard templates to the approximate dimensions that I found on the web. They are a bit long and will require some cutting of the structure of the hood.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150710_145832824_HDR_zpsdvnhdliq.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150710_145832824_HDR_zpsdvnhdliq.jpg.html)

The exhaust manifolds are doubled walled. Rather than cast iron, the stock manifolds are welded stainless with an inner and outer section. You certainly wouldn't want to touch it, but much better than bare cast iron.

I hear ya on the price but the issue with even vw coolant is that it has water mixed with it which evaporates and creates roughly 16 psi of pressure in most cars. Along witht that evaporation is the water beginning to roll air. The only thing that keeps it from boiling is that the sytem is closed and works like a pressure cooker to increase the boiling point. The fact that its getting warmer than typical mean that between the half mark and anything higher it is definitely closer to boiling than at the half mark. And the hotter it gets, the poorer that water mixed coolant performs to cool it efficiently thanks to the rolling air bubbles which travel between the liquid and metal. Basically standard 50/50 mix has a cliff at a temp zone and once it reaches that cliff it suddenly overheats. There is proof that even snowmobiles have been run at a standstill up to like 260 degress which would definitely have caused major damage with standard coolant where with waterless it was still fine simply because the coolant was still able to efficiently pull heat without the boiling effect preventing it from doing its task. So my point is that it may or may not lower the temp that its running at BUT what it will do is effectively keep the motor safe even though its running warmer.

http://youtu.be/VkNz-ANfUkc

[Audihere!]

And by the way, I like the mustang ones too seconded by the focus vents(agree on painting them to get rid of the gloss). Do you know the dimentions of the vents mentioned at all? That could be a major factor if they are too small or large

[bhusted]

The mustang vents are roughly 20" x 4.5". The focus vents are 11" x 5.5".

[Audihere!]

The mustang vents are roughly 20" x 4.5". The focus vents are 11" x 5.5".

At that size, the mustang ones will definitely require you cut into the reinforced structure on the underside of the hood. The Focus vents sound more realistic but the biggest obstacle I can see is the body line on the area of the hood that you'd be placing them. Any idea how you'll overcome that?

[Audihere!]

Nevermind, I couldnt get that photo to load before but now I see where you plan to place the mustang ones. I like it. Will have to cut the reinforcement still but you wont lose any real strength

[Audihere!]

I just found these, I like that they are angled slightly which would seemingly follow the lines on our hood fairly well. They are from a roush mustang

http://www.cjponyparts.com/roush-heat-extractor-hood-insert-unpainted-pair-gt-2015/p/HDSC26/

[bhusted]

I saw those roush ones somewhere on the web. No dimensions to be found, but it does appear that the angle of the vents is very low, which is not ideal. Another picture I found made it appear that the holes were very small and narrow. Thanks for looking for me.

[T.Hell]

Maybe the angle of the vents doesn´t matter that much? I´d think that even a smaller holes helps the air out from under the hood. Here is a pretty good video how the airflow sucks the air out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOaUy-wHKkM

[Audihere!]

Maybe the angle of the vents doesn´t matter that much? I´d think that even a smaller holes helps the air out from under the hood. Here is a pretty good video how the airflow sucks the air out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOaUy-wHKkM

This is my way of thinking as well, i havent seen this video before but it confirms what i was thinking about creating a vacuum by flowing air. What I was thinking of in relation to this is how you can syphon fuel without sucking on a hose by taking the air compressor and running the air at a 45 degree angle toward the end of the hose and it sucks the fuel out. Biggest thing is just having a way for the hot air to escape as hot air rises as well. Good post T

[bhusted]

Interesting video indeed. The idea here is of course to get as much airflow through the vents as possible. There is some "scavenging" that happens as the air flows over the hood, creating a low pressure zone. This can be enhanced by the shape of the vents and addition of a gurney flap. The car in the video basically just has a hole cut in the hood. Check out what happens to this Miata:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjjOgX_C5g0

I tried ordering some of the '13-'14 vents today and found that they are back-ordered until mid-August. I'm not sure what I want to do yet.

[Audihere!]

I dig this, Im learning some new stuff looking into the vents and i may very well do a set on mine too since i live in las vegas where it gets quite hot!

[KraemerSXED]

I too have been looking into cutting holes into my hood for some ventilation. I don't know when I will get to it but I was thinking of doing one vent per bank. Looking forward to the finished product.

[bhusted]

As an update, I talked to the seller on the vents. The manufacturer is expected to have another batch of the vents in mid-August and will ship directly from the manufacturer. I've decided not to cancel my order and wait for the, to come in. Don't expect much more on the venting project until then.

[cjt671]

Is supercharging this an option?

[Audihere!]

Is supercharging this an option?

The only superchargers ive seen are VERY expensive and less than impressive power increase. Turbo(s) will put down higher numbers and less abusive to the motor and cost significantly less

[bhusted]

Is supercharging this an option?

Tuning for forced induction would be the more difficult part.

[cjt671]

Tuning for forced induction would be the more difficult part.

Figured..

[blitz2190]

Tuning for forced induction would be the more difficult part.

I haven't been through the entire thread but has anyone mentioned using an rs 6 tune(if it can be flashed may need ecu)? would have to rewire a few things(I havent looked yet) but would give you boost control, though it would need a good amount of retuning for a sc. just a thought, I was looking into doing a 4.2 turbo swap on a b6.

[Audihere!]

I haven't been through the entire thread but has anyone mentioned using an rs 6 tune(if it can be flashed may need ecu)? would have to rewire a few things(I havent looked yet) but would give you boost control, though it would need a good amount of retuning for a sc. just a thought, I was looking into doing a 4.2 turbo swap on a b6.

Thats exactly what I had planned to do if I ever decided to go to turbo on it. I presently have a euro s6 file flashed onto my a6 ecu since I swapped to s6 cams, intake and fuel injectors so I think its possible. It would definitely require tuning but can be done as Ive seen a silver b5 avant with an rs6 twin t. Its the same motor with lower compression and upgraded rods so definitely do-able

[cjt671]

I just figure a super charger would require relatively less work, but from what it seems you guys would go for turbo because more power for less?

[Mad Cow]

I haven't been through the entire thread but has anyone mentioned using an rs 6 tune(if it can be flashed may need ecu)? would have to rewire a few things(I havent looked yet) but would give you boost control, though it would need a good amount of retuning for a sc. just a thought, I was looking into doing a 4.2 turbo swap on a b6.

RS6 ECU would be far from ideal unless you plan on tearing into the flash and changing a few things. Just off the top of my head: RS6 is auto only, it uses a pair of very expensive EGT probes plus other randoms sensors that don't exist outside of Europe, and is tuned for low boost and most likely has some weird hacks and tricks to make everything work right. And good luck finding someone who knows that ECU well enough to do all that on this continent. Standalone makes a whole lot more sense in this case.

Honestly I think a single turbo would be easier than a supercharger, remove false firewall, relocate battery, and you got a perfect spot for a nice fat snail. A supercharger won't fit on the side of the motor so you'll need to integrate it with the intake manifold most likely.

[Audihere!]

I just figure a super charger would require relatively less work, but from what it seems you guys would go for turbo because more power for less?

Both turbo and supercharger would have their obstacles, i wouldnt say one is more difficult than the other but the superchargers cost far too much for literally about 100 hp. I agree with madcow about favoring a single turbo setup for the v8. Depending on the turbo selected, you can get FAR more power for significantly less money. The superchargers ive seen range at around 7-10k in price and if i remember right only give about 100 or 150 hp increase. Those are some expensive ponies!!!

[Audihere!]

How are the vents comin bhusted?

[bhusted]

How are the vents comin bhusted?

Still waiting on the vents to be delivered...

I picked up a second pair of valve covers a little while back and sent them out to be powder coated. The VHT paint was flaking off all over the place and looked hideous. Today I spent some time installing the new covers and replacing the gaskets. As part of the powder coating process, the parts need to be media blasted, so I spent a significant amount of time cleaning the inside of the covers. I also had to clean out all of the holes where the coil packs bolt down.

Hole full of sand:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150731_110457911_HDR_zpsvmqsunul.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150731_110457911_HDR_zpsvmqsunul.jpg.html)

A couple drops of oil and running the tap up and down:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150731_110601984_HDR_zpsahx9h3t8.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150731_110601984_HDR_zpsahx9h3t8.jpg.html)

Spray some brake clean down the hole and all clean:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150731_110634016_HDR_zpsp0b49qv7.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150731_110634016_HDR_zpsp0b49qv7.jpg.html)

I still marvel at Audi's 5 valve tech when I look under these valve covers. So much going on.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150731_122544072_zpsmt3tcqu6.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150731_122544072_zpsmt3tcqu6.jpg.html)

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150731_125217444_zpsjrk8utxj.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150731_125217444_zpsjrk8utxj.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150731_141346756_HDR_zps9g5qhndm.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150731_141346756_HDR_zps9g5qhndm.jpg.html)

[Audihere!]

Looks good man! I thought were already powder coated. I had mine done in a graphite grey. The place i have do my powdercoating does a dip process to remove old paint, debris, grease etc so can avoid all the leftovers from media blasting. Was it tough getting to all the bolts for the covers with it installed? I was looking at mine during install and that crossed my mind that it wouldnt be a lot of fun to do lol

[bhusted]

They were just painted before and the paint was flaking off. The place I went for the coating hot tanks the parts to remove grease and oil, then bakes them to remove any residual oil in the pores of the metal. Then they are blasted before coating. Hopefully they look this way for may years to come.

The covers aren't hard to remove with the engine in the car. The worst two bolts are under the coolant tank. The ABS pump is there and makes things tight. Nothing a swivel socket and long extension can't handle though.

[cjt671]

Covers look good! Almost did the ones on my 2.8 but decided to wrinkle paint cause I was worried about the sand blasting...

[mk1 rabbit gti]

Supercharger won't fit under the hood. Pulley hits the front. K04's would be easier. You can use oem parts.

[Nollywood]

The only supercharger compact enough to fit under the B5's hood would be the super expensive MTM one. Nice fit, but not worth the $$,$$$.

A single turbo would be easier to install, and give better gains for less money.

[bhusted]

Vents are here. Hopefully laying out placement and cutting holes this weekend.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150826_200956431_zpsxz2kfcg6.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150826_200956431_zpsxz2kfcg6.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150826_200948351_HDR_zpstuszasye.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150826_200948351_HDR_zpstuszasye.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150826_200920287_HDR_zps3vygorxh.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150826_200920287_HDR_zps3vygorxh.jpg.html)

[UroTuning]

Liking the vent idea! Nice build![up]

[Audihere!]

Oh youngot the mustang ones huh? I misunderstood and thought you bought the singular vents

[Audihere!]

Not happy with singular, ordered the vents on the 9th and they said a couple weeks... contacted them this past friday and hear from them today saying they will now be back in stock in 2-3 weeks... when its already been 3 weeks, ugh. Debating cancelling and ordering the mustang vents too. Any progress on yours? Curious if you had any issues before i get em too

[simple2me]

Just picked up my a8 today with 4.2. How difficult is the wiring? I'm going into a 04 A4.

[bhusted]

Not happy with singular, ordered the vents on the 9th and they said a couple weeks... contacted them this past friday and hear from them today saying they will now be back in stock in 2-3 weeks... when its already been 3 weeks, ugh. Debating cancelling and ordering the mustang vents too. Any progress on yours? Curious if you had any issues before i get em too

That sounds frustrating. I started making templates for laying out the cuts in the hood for the Mustang vents, but not much else yet. The fit and finish of the vents from BMC is okay. I knew that they were fiberglass reproductions when I bought them. Not show quality, but fine for my purposes. I'll take some pictures of the inside of them to show what I mean.


Just picked up my a8 today with 4.2. How difficult is the wiring? I'm going into a 04 A4.
Your swap is going to be very different from mine. Which 4.2 V8 did you get? If it's the BBK or BHF, chain-driven V8 used in the B6/B7 S4 the swap should be fairly straight forward. If you're using an older 40v like the one I used, you could have a real challenge when it comes to wiring.

[Audihere!]

Just picked up my a8 today with 4.2. How difficult is the wiring? I'm going into a 04 A4.

Adding to what bhusted said, I believe I read that the b6 has a significantly smaller engine bay than the b5 as well which is why the b6 s4 went with a chain driven timing set up on the back of the engine instead of the timing belt set up on the 40valve motors we have used from c5 and d2 series cars. So if you have a timing belt set up motor, which if you got a d2 a8then you do, it will be VERY tough to get it to fit the engine bay... hard enough that audi redesigned the timing system to fit the chasis. You DO NOT want a timing chain motor from a b6/b7 s4, the cylinder walls have scoring issues and the timing chain service requires pulling the motor and replacing 4 chains along with chain guides etc... NOT cheap, thats why you will find b6 and b7 s4s always for sale at 90-110k miles, they learn how expensive that service will be(I think its like 8 grand at the dealership) and want out.

[Audihere!]

Bhusted I ended up getting a refund on the singular vents and bought some mustang style ones on ebay but they are about 17 inches long rather than 20 so if you remove one full vent slot off the mustang ones, thats how long they are. I think they are going to fit the hood really well with minimal hood brace cutting. I wish these vents came with the mesh like yours did though, would be nice to keep things from falling into the engine bay but the singular ones woulda been wide open too so its ok

[simple2me]

I picked up a complete 04 A8 with the BFM engine I believe. It does have the timing belt setup. I'm in no rush so any modifying needing done to the core support won't be an issue. I have another A4 parts car that I will setup everything in and once it is done then I'll swap into the DD A4. If anyone has wiring tips let me know. I've been reading a lot of threads on the subject and found a few wiring schematics. Looking forward to the project.

[Nollywood]

I picked up a complete 04 A8 with the BFM engine I believe. It does have the timing belt setup. I'm in no rush so any modifying needing done to the core support won't be an issue. I have another A4 parts car that I will setup everything in and once it is done then I'll swap into the DD A4. If anyone has wiring tips let me know. I've been reading a lot of threads on the subject and found a few wiring schematics. Looking forward to the project.

Looks like you're using the same engine as I am.

You do realise it's going to be tough getting a VSS signal to the A8's ECU? And bolting the BFM motor to an 01A, 01E or 01X is NOT straight forward. Starter motor can't be used with a regular flywheel either.

Lots of issues to overcome. Engine brackets are also incompatible too.

[simple2me]

I'm going to use the transmission currently attached to the engine and look at swapping the A8 rearend into the A4 so I have matching gears. Can I use an older ECM with the wiring harness I have already?

[simple2me]

I can fabricate something to mount the engine. I see the front mounts are on an aluminum crossmember so maybe that's something I can look at using. Idk....trying to finish up my father's car for Cruisin the Coast next month. Once I am done I will start on my project.

[Nollywood]

I'm going to use the transmission currently attached to the engine and look at swapping the A8 rearend into the A4 so I have matching gears. Can I use an older ECM with the wiring harness I have already?

Use the A8's 6-speed Tiptronic??

[simple2me]

Yes.

[Audihere!]

I'm going to use the transmission currently attached to the engine and look at swapping the A8 rearend into the A4 so I have matching gears. Can I use an older ECM with the wiring harness I have already?

The auto trans in that year range of audis is a time bomb waiting to go off, thats why the v8s are accessible is the transmissions fail and they sell em cheap for a complete car. The rear differential wont bolt right in, you'll likely have a fair amount of fabrication to be done. I think the a6 and a8 rear diffs are somewhat compatible since people 6 speed01e swap the d2 a8 and s8 using a6 01e set ups but the a4 is different from the a6 rear diff for sure.

[Audihere!]

Im all for doing unique things but I think you're gonna have a loooong laundry list of things to overcome from ecu and tcu to drive shaft and axles, rear diff mounting, core support, engine mounts and brackets, radiator... not sure its worth it short of proving you can. I did a 4.2 and 01e 6 speed swap in my b5 and it has been A LOT of work. Best of luck to you in accomplishing it but itd suck for you to get super involved in the build and end up with a basket case

[simple2me]

I'm in no rush at all. If it turns into a basket case of a build and I say F'it, it was only 1800.00 wasted and a little bit of my time. It'll be another month before I can even get started. I just finished the chassis for my father's car. Now I need to sandblast, prime n paint the new chassis, rewire the whole vehicle and finish putting the motor together. Took next week off to finish everything up. On schedule so I shod be good.

[Nollywood]

Yes.

Not a good idea.

You will need to use pretty much ALL of the A8's harnesses and control modules. The D3 transmission driveshaft flanges exit the transmission via the bellhousing, so right behind the engine. The front differential sends drive to the rear via a very complex twin-shaft arrangement.

I am confident this set-up will NOT work in a B5. Limited space underneath the car, have you seen the size of the D3's ZF6HP-29? It is huge, even ignoring the twin-shaft arrangement. The gearbox output to the front driveshafts is in the wrong place to line up with the B5's arches.

So many reasons why this will NOT work. You're setting yourself up for a load of grief.

Still, you might as well start your own thread, so we don't derail Bhusted's.

[simple2me]

Going into a B6 and even if the trans doesn't fit/lineup, I have the 5spd currently in the car that i can use. I'm not trying to derail/high jack anyone's thread....more like information gathering and commenting about my future build. Grief or no grief...I'm ready for the challenge. If I fail.....I'll push it off in the hole in the back 40 and bury it and continue driving the DD that was untouched. If I succeed.....well all of you that have succeeded knows what happens....

[Nollywood]

I meant B6, which has even less space than a B5.

I still strongly suggest you're better off doing what needs to be done, and mating the BFM motor to an 01A manual. Why you would wish to squeeze in the D3's massive, heavy and ungainly into a B6 beats me. Unless you simply wish to be known as the guy who did.

Chopping up your B6, struggling to fit one of the major driveline assemblies that is responsible for many a D3 going to an early grave is absolute madness.

[bhusted]

Wow. I'm not sure what happened to my build thread overnight. Hopefully we can get this thing back on track with some updates soon.

[simple2me]

Sorry Bhusted!! Was browsing your thread and commented about my upcoming project and next thing you know..... anyhow, nice build!

[Murph_129]

Vents are here. Hopefully laying out placement and cutting holes this weekend.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150826_200956431_zpsxz2kfcg6.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150826_200956431_zpsxz2kfcg6.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150826_200948351_HDR_zpstuszasye.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150826_200948351_HDR_zpstuszasye.jpg.html)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh91/bshusted/IMG_20150826_200920287_HDR_zps3vygorxh.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/bshusted/media/IMG_20150826_200920287_HDR_zps3vygorxh.jpg.html)

Did yea get the holes cut yet?

[bhusted]

Did yea get the holes cut yet?

Not yet. I made templates for marking out the holes. Now I need to sack up and cut up my hood.


Sorry Bhusted!! Was browsing your thread and commented about my upcoming project and next thing you know..... anyhow, nice build!

No worries. Good luck with your project.

[4Loops]

Hey Bhusted,
Awesome project. This, and some others, have inspired me to try this project myself. Just found and purchased a 4.2 A6 w/ ART. Hopefully will start soon after some other home projects wrap up.

One question though, on post #3 you said you sent the flywheel out to be machined. Why did you have to have the flywheel machined? and what was machined on it? I suppose this is to fit the South Bend Stage 1 Clutch you mention. Would this be a direct fit(with no machining necessary) if I were to use a stock 30V clutch? Is the stage 1 clutch you mention slightly thicker requiring some material to be shaved off the flywheel? (I'm coming from the 2.8L as well).
I have performed all kinds of work to my vehicles, but never had the opportunity/need to replace a clutch, so pardon any ignorance here.

I hope this question hasn't been asked of you already, I did not see it asked the the rest of the forum.
If there's some documentation or another forum which would explain this maybe you could direct me there as well.

I'm in the mere infancy stages of this project, so for some things, "I don't know what I don't know" yet. Eager to learn and start though!

-not trying to hijack anything myself (sorry if I'm long-winded) -just want to know why machining the flywheel was necessary for you.

Thanks!

[bhusted]

The flywheel was machined to flatten the friction surface once again. My flywheel had a very light dish shape to it if you put a straight edge across it. Very little material was actually removed. This process had nothing to do with the clutch actually fitting.

[4Loops]

Thanks, I'll make sure to check this on mine as well once everything is apart.

Looking forward to see how your vents fit & look!
-I don't think I saw any comment on this.... are you planning on keeping the matte black look, or will you paint white to match? I think either will look great.

[king84]

Pearl.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[4Loops]

Right, Pearl. It'll definitely look awesome!
Painting to match will give it that nice descreet, almost OEM look I'd think.

[bhusted]

Thanks, I'll make sure to check this on mine as well once everything is apart.

Looking forward to see how your vents fit & look!
-I don't think I saw any comment on this.... are you planning on keeping the matte black look, or will you paint white to match? I think either will look great.

No problem. For now I think the vents will just be painted black. I'd like to have the bumper and hood repainted at some point from all of the rock chips over the years. The vents would probably get painted then too. BTW my car is Casablanca white. The pearl white was on the earlier, pre-facelift cars.

[4Loops]

O, my mistake, I thought you were correcting my "white" paint comment to say that it was Pearl. I'm unfamiliar with the paint names. Good bit of information to know, though.
I have been thinking of this myself: to someday soon have the hood (and maybe other parts) resprayed. Sun and salt has taken its toll over 16yrs.
Somehow I've always wound up with black cars -although they do look sleek to me, I've always thought audi's look good in white too. Especially yours (well then, casablanca). Hard for some cars to pull off white in my book.

[Audihere!]

Got my hood pins and vents situated, rattle-canned the hood in the drive way haha! Need to do a cut and polish to get rid of some orange peel but all in all came out quite good. Did you getvthe vents in Bhusted?

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_071002_zpscdjmtyej.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_071002_zpscdjmtyej.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20151007_171118_zps6mkybmos.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151007_171118_zps6mkybmos.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20151007_181935_zpsy3j1ok4n.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151007_181935_zpsy3j1ok4n.jpg.html)

[king84]

Nice work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bhusted]

I've been so busy with work that I haven't had time to work on my vents. Your work looks great. I hope to get back to working on mine sometime soon.

[Audihere!]

I've been so busy with work that I haven't had time to work on my vents. Your work looks great. I hope to get back to working on mine sometime soon.

Thanks, its my first time doing something like this. I was intimidated at first but quickly caught a rhythm once I was confident in the placement of the stencils i made. I just made a stencil and placed it, then took butcher paper to the edges of the hood and taped the stencil to it so i could flip it over and have it in the same location on the other side. Worked quite well. I did have ti shave the vent where the coolant expansion tank is though since the vent was resting on it when the hood was closed, so expect to deal with that small thing especially since you have mesh on yours

[B3trayus]

Thanks, its my first time doing something like this. I was intimidated at first but quickly caught a rhythm once I was confident in the placement of the stencils i made. I just made a stencil and placed it, then took butcher paper to the edges of the hood and taped the stencil to it so i could flip it over and have it in the same location on the other side. Worked quite well. I did have ti shave the vent where the coolant expansion tank is though since the vent was resting on it when the hood was closed, so expect to deal with that small thing especially since you have mesh on yours
You keep the stencils?
Looks awesome! Now I know that there is another bombcan surgeon around.
Lol

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Audihere!]

You keep the stencils?
Looks awesome! Now I know that there is another bombcan surgeon around.
Lol

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I didnt since i wont be needing them anylonger but they were highly generic, all i did was use thin cardboard /posterboard and cut it to 4 straight pieces and laid them on the underside of the vent and taped them together to have the exact shape that the vent needs to slip down into. I carefully placed it on the hood to sit just in front of the secondary firewall and a spot to the side of the step up in the hood where i thought itd look best. Then taped it down and traced it to the hood with a sharpie(thats why i used posterboard instead of paper was so i could trace cleaner lines. Then i used butcher paper and carefully cut it to the shape of the windsheild end of the hood at the corner( made it the length of the vent so it was more accurate) and taped that to the stencil and then removed it and flipped it over to place on the other side. Takes some patience is all to get it laid out the same. Then i cut to the outside of the sharpie line since thats the edge of the stencil. I drilled the corners of the cut outs and then used an angle grinder to cut the long lines until close to the corner and used a dremil to finish that. Then used a metal removing bit in a drill to take the corners out cleanly. Honestly the recessed hoodpins were MUCH more difficult and time consuming

[Audihere!]

Any updates bhusted? Finally got mine running woop woop!!

[king84]

I've been so busy with work that I haven't had time to work on my vents. Your work looks great. I hope to get back to working on mine sometime soon.

Wondering if you've had a chance to work on the vents? I came across an Imola Avant (B5 S4) a few days ago in Everett with vents installed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[4Loops]

Hey Busted, and anyone else who's performed a swap or a clutch replacement..
Do you recall what size Allen wrench is needed to remove the clutch? I'm trying to remove mine but can't seem to find the right size. I'm trying with a 6mm, but it is sloppy and will wallow out the bolt. Any such thing as a 6.5mm? Bently manual doesn't say squat in terms of bolt sizes..

[Nollywood]

Mine are 6mm Allen's, so are every other Audi A4 I've ever fitted a clutch to.

It's quite possible yours are a bit worn.

[4Loops]

Thanks for the affirmation, Nollywood.
I suppose I'll proceed carefully. Probably a good idea to use replacements when reassembling.

[Nollywood]

I have removed these bolts when they've too worn to use a 6mm Allen. What you do is bash on a 12mm 12 point socket. It works every time.

[4Loops]

I have removed these bolts when they've too worn to use a 6mm Allen. What you do is bash on a12mm 12 point socket. It works every time.

Worked for me too! Three came out with the 6mm allen (allbeit sloppy) and three stripped, so I mashed the socket on you mentioned and all went smooth. Thanks for the tip!

Bhusted, sorry, I feel like I'm stealing the thread with these questions, but overall I think it does add value to anyone who's following along to aid their own project. My very next step is to jump over and start my own build thread.

I too, am concerned already about cooling.
I read a few pages back someone asked if you had heat shielded your exhaust. I would think this should help, right? Have you done this to see if it'd help?

Also I'm having some thoughts that one of the electric fans could be overridden to be PWM'd to a certain speed, based on temperature, or just change things so that when the ECM commands the fan off, it never actually drops below, say, 50% speed. I'd think a speed fast enough to create a regular bit of air flow but relatively no noise would be perfect. It might help to keep the fans cycling on and off, and keep the temp relatively normal. This actually might be something I'll try, before I decide if I want to go the way of venting the hood. It'll take some microcontroller fortitude to accomplish this, but I'm game. Arduino boards are somewhere around $6, and I'm sure a waterproof case isn't expensive. Maybe just locate it in the ECM box.
I'll have to give it a shot and report how things go.

Best of luck!

[bhusted]

Sorry for my delinquency. I am a physics teacher and coach an after-school robotics team, so once school starts there is very little time to spend on the car other than driving it. We have been having some frosty mornings here in the PNW and the combination of low-end torque and summer tires has been great fun.

On the subject of cooling, I got as far a making the templates for my vents, but haven't had the time to lay everything out and sack-up to cutting my hood. The vents took so long to arrive that I didn't really have time to work on them before school started. With the cold weather there really hasn't been any need. The fans never really cycle on when the ambient temp is <45 or so. For the high temp problems I was having this summer, no amount of fan speed control is going to solve the issue. At 70+ mph there is more air hitting the radiator than any 12v fan is going to manage. The solution has to be to remove the hot air from behind the radiator to allow it to be more effective.

[king84]

At 70+ mph there is more air hitting the radiator than any 12v fan is going to manage. The solution has to be to remove the hot air from behind the radiator to allow it to be more effective.

Question, would a pair of lower intercooler ducts or air guides from any 2.7t help with air circulation? http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/30/1c16fafc87327a130e89936ae5778956.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bhusted]

I appreciate the thought, but I don't see how the intercooler ducts would improve airflow through the engine bay. I tried installing the vented S4 fender liner and that didn't seem to make much difference at all.

[4Loops]

My mistake, I thought your main cooling issues were at low or stopped vehicle speed.

I was thinking along these lines too, but to actually use small radiators that would fit where the intercoolers would normally go. It might be difficult to mount one on your driver side, though. I think that's where you mounted the power steering cooler.
I suppose it won't exit air from the engine bay any faster, only provide extra heat exchange. So this may or may not help anything.
-Just a thought.

[wolfe2118]

I added a large oil cooler, haven't seen the temp rise over the halfway mark since. The temp usually will stay between 89-91C according to the climate control diagnostics readout. Before, it would creep up to 98C while sitting in traffic. I think I over-engineered the cooling system because I have A/C.

[bhusted]

I added a large oil cooler, haven't seen the temp rise over the halfway mark since. The temp usually will stay between 89-91C according to the climate control diagnostics readout. Before, it would creep up to 98C while sitting in traffic. I think I over-engineered the cooling system because I have A/C.

Did you use an oil filter sandwich? What cooler did you use? I thought about trying to improve oil cooling and got stuck because nobody wanted to return my emails about if the sandwich adapter would fit the 40v.

[mk1 rabbit gti]

He's got a 32v so he can run a sandwich plate easier. Im using an rs6 oil cooler and filter on my 40v. I also have my landrover fans wired into my ac so they're constantly on low speed unless high speed is required. Steady 90* temp.

[Nollywood]

He's got a 32v so he can run a sandwich plate easier. Im using an rs6 oil cooler and filter on my 40v. I also have my landrover fans wired into my ac so they're constantly on low speed unless high speed is required. Steady 90* temp.

It's actually easier to run a sandwich plate easier on the 40V from the C5. All other variants run paper filter elements within an aluminium housing, just like the 32V. The C5 models run a metal screw-on oil filter, making the addition of a sandwich plate a breeze.

[Audihere!]

Question on the vacuum canisters, would it affect anything to only run one of them instead of both? Since i kept the ac i have little room available, I have one mounted where the smic was on the drivers side for the 1.8t, i have the ability to mount the 2nd one but it sits lower than i am comfortable with. Any issues this would cause??

[bhusted]

I only have the one vacuum canister and have had no issues.

[bhusted]

It's actually easier to run a sandwich plate easier on the 40V from the C5. All other variants run paper filter elements within an aluminium housing, just like the 32V. The C5 models run a metal screw-on oil filter, making the addition of a sandwich plate a breeze.

Care to recommend a sandwich plate that fits the 40v?

[Audihere!]

I only have the one vacuum canister and have had no issues.

Thank you good sir! Hopefully yours is comin along! Mines been slow moving lately, just began wiring fans yesterday. Still havent driven her because I was waiting on a power steering cooler forever and now need to take it to my friends shop to fabricate a mount for it and fabricate the full skid plate

[Nollywood]

Care to recommend a sandwich plate that fits the 40v?

I'll let you know. I've got a C5 RS6 combined oil filter housing, and engine bracket. I'll fit my sandwich plate, and see if it all matches.

[wolfe2118]

Care to recommend a sandwich plate that fits the 40v?

Just cut off the oil filter housing and tap an aluminum plate for two fittings. Bolt that to the block using some rtv and you are good to go. I mounted my oil cooler where the right side intercooler would be on an S4 with the remote mount oil filter directly behind it.

[Audihere!]

I was gonna run an oil filter relocation kit from summit(had to have the nut adapter drilled and tapped since none of them matched the filters thread size) but i was too limited on room to run it. I had also planned to add an additional oil cooler on the line from filter back to the block. If i delete the factory air box i have room to do it... just dont want a hot air intake either! Pick your poison situation

[Audihere!]

This is what i had come up with doing

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20150315_191224_zpsktwyscan.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150315_191224_zpsktwyscan.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20150323_170256_zpsvzlmv0vt.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150323_170256_zpsvzlmv0vt.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20150326_190538_zpszhvsnlam.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150326_190538_zpszhvsnlam.jpg.html)

[Nollywood]

Care to recommend a sandwich plate that fits the 40v?

Standard C5 RS6 sandwich plate.

The RS6 has both air and water oil coolers, while the C5 4.2 V8 and S6 were water-cooled only. The C5 RS6 sandwich plate is the same as the one I purchased for my 32V remote oil filter set-up.

[bhusted]

Standard C5 RS6 sandwich plate.

The RS6 has both air and water oil coolers, while the C5 4.2 V8 and S6 were water-cooled only. The C5 RS6 sandwich plate is the same as the one I purchased for my 32V remote oil filter set-up.

I like that it's OEM and made to fit the block. Do you know the PN?

[Nollywood]

I like that it's OEM and made to fit the block. Do you know the PN?

Yep - 078 115 417 K.

It doesn't have to be an RS6 item, it is EXACTLY the same as the one I purchased for my 32V.

Here's the RS6 sandwich plate between the oil filter and oil filter / engine bracket:

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/S8-Powered%20Audi%20A4%20Touring%20Car/image_zpsugpoovrk.jpeg (http://s768.photobucket.com/user/NaijaGuy/media/S8-Powered%20Audi%20A4%20Touring%20Car/image_zpsugpoovrk.jpeg.html)

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/S8-Powered%20Audi%20A4%20Touring%20Car/image_zpswupdkvu9.jpeg (http://s768.photobucket.com/user/NaijaGuy/media/S8-Powered%20Audi%20A4%20Touring%20Car/image_zpswupdkvu9.jpeg.html)

[bhusted]

Yep - 078 115 417 K.

It doesn't have to be an RS6 item, it is EXACTLY the same as the one I purchased for my 32V.


Thanks! It appears that you have a shorter oil filter installed on the plate. Is there an issue with using the larger filter spec'd for the NA 40V engines?

[Nollywood]

Thanks! It appears that you have a shorter oil filter installed on the plate. Is there an issue with using the larger filter spec'd for the NA 40V engines?

No issues at all. Either B5 S4 or B6 3.0 filters work fine. Oil capacity is the same as that of the long slim one on the S6.

[Audihere!]

How do we look up the sandwich plate Nollywood? I tried by googling the rs6 sandwich and by using the part number you listed but nothing comes up for the sandwich plate, just other random stuff with similar part numbers. I like this solution better than my oil filter relocation, thank you for sharing this!!

[Nollywood]

No worries, Audihere! I'll look up the sandwich plate I bought for my 32V, and share the details here.

[4Loops]

Hey Nollywood, Audihere!

Quick question on when you installed your engine.. When you had everything aligned, the engine slid over the transmission shaft, and the engine slid closer to the transmission, did you get to about a half inch of gap left, and then it wouldn't go in any further? I'm having trouble with my last half inch or less. I'm wondering, is this the pressure plate fins pushing back? Do you just install your bolts and start tightening to compress the pressure plate? Is there something else I should look out for? I've made sure nothing else around the engine is hitting. Troubles are definitely within the bell housing. Any clues? Sorry for not getting nomenclature correct. First timer here and just want to avoid screwing anything up.

[Nollywood]

Hey Nollywood, Audihere!

Quick question on when you installed your engine.. When you had everything aligned, the engine slid over the transmission shaft, and the engine slid closer to the transmission, did you get to about a half inch of gap left, and then it wouldn't go in any further? I'm having trouble with my last half inch or less. I'm wondering, is this the pressure plate fins pushing back? Do you just install your bolts and start tightening to compress the pressure plate? Is there something else I should look out for? I've made sure nothing else around the engine is hitting. Troubles are definitely within the bell housing. Any clues? Sorry for not getting nomenclature correct. First timer here and just want to avoid screwing anything up.

Just so I know how to advise you:

What flywheel and clutch are you using?
What transmission are you using?
Are you using a spacer between the engine and transmission?
Are you mating the engine and transmission together out of the car, or bolting the engine to the transmission that's bolted to the subframe?

On all my swaps - 32 and 40V inclusive, I had no trouble pushing the transmission onto the motor.

One thing to be aware of - do NOT attempt to force the engine onto the transmission by pulling both together with bolts. There's a reason it's not coming together, if you apply force by bolting the engine and transmission together, you will bust something, or strip the thread out of the bolt holes. The engine is also likely to be "locked".

[bhusted]

^ Agreed. I would not try pulling them together with the bolts. Something is hanging you up that shouldn't be. Don't force it.

[86turbodsl]

I did that once and broke an ear off. As stated never do that.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

[4Loops]

Just so I know how to advise you:

What flywheel and clutch are you using?
What transmission are you using?
Are you using a spacer between the engine and transmission?
Are you mating the engine and transmission together out of the car, or bolting the engine to the transmission that's bolted to the subframe?

On all my swaps - 32 and 40V inclusive, I had no trouble pushing the transmission onto the motor.

One thing to be aware of - do NOT attempt to force the engine onto the transmission by pulling both together with bolts. There's a reason it's not coming together, if you apply force by bolting the engine and transmission together, you will bust something, or strip the thread out of the bolt holes. The engine is also likely to be "locked".

Hey Nollywood,

Thanks for the reply. I'm kicking myself for posting here before I posted on my build forum.. my apologies for the duplicate request for advice here and on my thread. I'll get better [:(]

To answer your questions though:
I am using the 2.8 30V flywheel, SouthBend Stage 1 clutch.
I'm using the (01a?) 5spd manual transmission.
I'm not using a spacer. Should I be? I didn't see (or overlooked) the other thread builds using one.
I'm mating the engine to the transmission while the transmission is still in the car.

Right. If it's not going in on its own, don't force it. I've been burnt in the past by doing silly stuff like that.

So here's what I'm wondering too:
I did not remove the slave (throw out, I think its also called?) cylinder. Could that be applying pressure to the clutch release lever, causing it to keep pressing the throw out bearing against the fins of the pressure plate?

I thought I might give that a try tomorrow -removing the slave cylinder and pulling it all the way out and checking things again, and then trying again.
Thing is so strange.. I've got the angle matched so well that I can slide the engine all the way out, and in over the splines (fairly) effortlessly, and then I get the resistance at the end.
I suppose I'll try the slave cylinder, and just keep trying to match that special angle until it plops the rest of the way in on its own.

Think that'd do it?
I don't think there's anything really quirky about the 99.5 year model like there are with the '96's, right?
I'm guessing the engine will slide easily all the way on until the engine and transmission are completely touching, as you mentioned?

Thanks!

[Nollywood]

I would not remove the clutch slave cylinder, before fitting the motor. For starters, it's not the problem. Secondly, it is more difficult installing the slave cylinder with the release fork pushed back by the clutch pressure plate. You also run the risk of the slave cylinder piston NOT engaging in the fork recess. Try bleeding the clutch this way, and the piston will been expelled into the clutch housing, along with all the fluid. One soaked clutch.

I would suggest you pull the engine out, remove the clutch, then try installing the motor. If it fits, then at least the problem is isolated, and narrowed down to the clutch.

One thing I forgot to ask - did you use a spacer / washer between the crank boss and flywheel?

[Audihere!]

Hey Nollywood, Audihere!

Quick question on when you installed your engine.. When you had everything aligned, the engine slid over the transmission shaft, and the engine slid closer to the transmission, did you get to about a half inch of gap left, and then it wouldn't go in any further? I'm having trouble with my last half inch or less. I'm wondering, is this the pressure plate fins pushing back? Do you just install your bolts and start tightening to compress the pressure plate? Is there something else I should look out for? I've made sure nothing else around the engine is hitting. Troubles are definitely within the bell housing. Any clues? Sorry for not getting nomenclature correct. First timer here and just want to avoid screwing anything up.

I believe I saw another thread where someone had the same issue and they had forgotten to remove something off the 4.2 from the auto set up flexplate, I dont remember specifically what it was but it was behind the flywheel at the crank and it kept making the trans suddenly hang up and not finish pairing

[Nollywood]

I believe I saw another thread where someone had the same issue and they had forgotten to remove something off the 4.2 from the auto set up flexplate, I dont remember specifically what it was but it was behind the flywheel at the crank and it kept making the trans suddenly hang up and not finish pairing

Torque converter support bush.

That was Kraemer, I pointed out the bush in the end if his crank, but the general consensus was that it didn't matter.

I've always removed mine with my swaps.

[4Loops]

I would not remove the clutch slave cylinder, before fitting the motor. For starters, it's not the problem. Secondly, it is more difficult installing the slave cylinder with the release fork pushed back by the clutch pressure plate. You also run the risk of the slave cylinder piston NOT engaging in the fork recess. Try bleeding the clutch this way, and the piston will been expelled into the clutch housing, along with all the fluid. One soaked clutch.

I would suggest you pull the engine out, remove the clutch, then try installing the motor. If it fits, then at least the problem is isolated, and narrowed down to the clutch.

One thing I forgot to ask - did you use a spacer / washer between the crank boss and flywheel?

I won't touch the slave cylinder then. Good to know how much of a pain that could be before even trying it.
I very sure I didn't forget a spacer. The Flywheel fit soo super close, any closer and it would've hit.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/719/23517020919_b201ca1653_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BQ7SZV)DSC_0567 (https://flic.kr/p/BQ7SZV)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/621/23517021119_6b566680b1_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BQ7T4n)DSC_0551 (https://flic.kr/p/BQ7T4n)

I'll check this myself today when I pull the engine out again (for the 10th time, I think):
I took this picture as I was installing the clutch to the flywheel. The alignment tool stopped where it is shown in the picture. I was sure the small tip of it inserted into the bearing in the flywheel and bottomed out in that, and that's why it didn't go any further.
Could I have been wrong? Should the alignment tool seated in further to where you wouldn't be able to see as much of the splines on the tool?
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/671/23858839846_25dbb16531_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CmjMRG)DSC_0560 (https://flic.kr/p/CmjMRG)

Anyway, I'll have to pull it out again just to see what's going on. If I can't figure it out I might take the pressure plate and clutch off as you said and try to fit it then.
I just wanted to avoid doing that because I don't want to remove those nice expensive pressure plate stretch fit bolts I just bought [:|]

[Nollywood]

No worries. Please keep us posted.

[Nollywood]

I've never used an alignment tool when installing a clutch, I've simply lined up the clutch with my fingers and eyes, so I honestly can't say how far your tool should fit into the clutch splines.

[4Loops]

So let's say I did try to fit the engine without the clutch.
Once I decide to mount the clutch and pressure plate again, you think it would it be ok to reuse the pressure plate bolts, even though I already torqued them down once? Use locktite to be safe?
(These are new bolts with the new pressure plate, but already torqued down)

[T.Hell]

In the first picture there is that quide sleeve in the hole, are you sure that the correspondent hole in the transmission aligns with it perfectly? If it doesn´t, that MIGHT be the reason why it stops.

When I mounted the flywheel (the original straight from my old 2.8) I had to remove it once because it made contact with the back plate on the engine. And I reused those bolts. Maybe not the smartest move, but I decided to take the risk. I added a 1,25mm spacer under the flywheel. It´s the plate that was used under the original flex plate bolts: SHIM (http://www.audiclub.fi/audifinns/attachment.php?attachmentid=40574&d=1438080863)

[Nollywood]

You can reuse the pressure plate bolts, they are not exactly torque to yield, with only around 32Nm applied anyway.

I never use loctite on them either, it's possible to strip the 6mm Allen recesses next time you come to remove them. I've never had any of these bolts back out either.

[Audihere!]

Any info on how to look up that sandwich plate Nollywood? I've continued to look but no luck

[Nollywood]

Any info on how to look up that sandwich plate Nollywood? I've continued to look but no luck

No worries mate. This is the one I purchased:

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Random/image_zpscjcenbk1.png (http://s768.photobucket.com/user/NaijaGuy/media/Random/image_zpscjcenbk1.png.html)

From here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-4-UNF-Mocal-80-C-THERMOSTAT-Oil-Cooler-Sandwich-Plate-8-AN-JIC-Adapters-/231559686259?hash=item35ea086873:g:szIAAOSweW5VUfy K

[Audihere!]

No worries mate. This is the one I purchased:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Random/image_zpscjcenbk1.png (http://s768.photobucket.com/user/NaijaGuy/media/Random/image_zpscjcenbk1.png.html)

From here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-4-UNF-Mocal-80-C-THERMOSTAT-Oil-Cooler-Sandwich-Plate-8-AN-JIC-Adapters-/231559686259?hash=item35ea086873:g:szIAAOSweW5VUfy K

Awesome, thanks! I was searching for the oem rs6 so maybe thats why i couldnt find anything

[bhusted]

I won't touch the slave cylinder then. Good to know how much of a pain that could be before even trying it.
I very sure I didn't forget a spacer. The Flywheel fit soo super close, any closer and it would've hit.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/621/23517021119_6b566680b1_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BQ7T4n)DSC_0551 (https://flic.kr/p/BQ7T4n)

I'll check this myself today when I pull the engine out again (for the 10th time, I think):
I took this picture as I was installing the clutch to the flywheel. The alignment tool stopped where it is shown in the picture. I was sure the small tip of it inserted into the bearing in the flywheel and bottomed out in that, and that's why it didn't go any further.
Could I have been wrong? Should the alignment tool seated in further to where you wouldn't be able to see as much of the splines on the tool?
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/671/23858839846_25dbb16531_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CmjMRG)DSC_0560 (https://flic.kr/p/CmjMRG)

Anyway, I'll have to pull it out again just to see what's going on. If I can't figure it out I might take the pressure plate and clutch off as you said and try to fit it then.
I just wanted to avoid doing that because I don't want to remove those nice expensive pressure plate stretch fit bolts I just bought [:|]

In the picture above, it does appear that you do still have the steel bushing installed in the end of the crank. I had to remove mine to fit the dual mass flywheel. I did need a 1/16" spacer between the crank and the flywheel to keep the flywheel from rubbing on the rear main seal.

I will also say that I did remove the clutch slave when mating the engine and transmission. I can't say that it is what is hanging you up, but I would not worry about reinstalling it correctly. Not difficult.

[musasabi]

I just read through this entire thread for the first time. Such a good way to spice up the Monday morning routine!

Props to all you gentlemen. There's something really special about being able to see a project through that's endless by its nature. People usually circulate pictures of folks holding doors for the elderly to "restore their faith in humanity", but knowing there are steadfast enthusiasts out there who not only do their research and plan, but also just keep grinding through issues restores my faith in humanity. =D

Looking forward to reading updates through to next summer at least. =)

[4Loops]

In the picture above, it does appear that you do still have the steel bushing installed in the end of the crank. I had to remove mine to fit the dual mass flywheel. I did need a 1/16" spacer between the crank and the flywheel to keep the flywheel from rubbing on the rear main seal.

I will also say that I did remove the clutch slave when mating the engine and transmission. I can't say that it is what is hanging you up, but I would not worry about reinstalling it correctly. Not difficult.

So a friend came over this morning and spent the day helping me with this project.
Some good news to the fitment.. Maybe today was just a nice day: every now and then I get a break.. I got the engine to mate to the transmission! The friend wiggled right and left slightly and I was underneath and pulled back and down (shaking, up and down) and pulling it to the transmission, and it wiggled on in. I can't say it was the smoothest of operations, but it did wiggle its way on in there without big brute force. What a way to start the morning!

I think you're talking about the steel bushing that spaces the flex plate out from the back of the engine, right? The one that's a couple cm thick & heavy? I did remove that one. It came off stuck to the flex plate side of it. Here's a picture of that bushing I think you're talking about:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/689/23869702806_2d0c96082c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Cnht37)DSC_0553 (https://flic.kr/p/Cnht37)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5644/23527747919_d7622166bd_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BR4RLc)Closeup Spacer (https://flic.kr/p/BR4RLc)

Here's a closeup of that picture of the crank (boss? -I think Nollywood coined the term?) I'm still learning nomenclature here..
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5652/23527748179_0a1016099b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BR4RQF)Closeup Crank Rear (https://flic.kr/p/BR4RQF)
It looks like there is no spacer there, and the middle portion protrudes out so the flywheel mounted over it. I think hubcentric is the correct term here?

I didn't see the need to put a thin spacer behind the flywheel. Not to say that's the correct way, but I didn't notice a need. My flywheel still rotated and I didn't seem to feel it grabbing on anything. The flywheel fit (seemed to me) just as close to the back of the engine as the flex plate did that I removed. I really hope that this isn't an absolute necessity.. as I've already mated and bolted the engine to the transmission.
Can anyone else vouch for one way or another (spacer behind the flywheel) as a necessity? Is it an optional thing?

Bhusted, how did you determine that your flywheel was actually rubbing on the rear main seal?

After we put the engine on the transmission, and lowered it to the mounts, I decided I'd give it a trial turn. I was able to hand crank the engine over, and it seemed like normal resistance of rotating an engine.
I did forget to use the motor mount perches from the A6. Once we got those on the A4 the engine slid right on them.

I've got some other issues to attend to, but I'll mention those in my own thread [;)]

[bhusted]

So a friend came over this morning and spent the day helping me with this project.
Some good news to the fitment.. Maybe today was just a nice day: every now and then I get a break.. I got the engine to mate to the transmission! The friend wiggled right and left slightly and I was underneath and pulled back and down (shaking, up and down) and pulling it to the transmission, and it wiggled on in. I can't say it was the smoothest of operations, but it did wiggle its way on in there without big brute force. What a way to start the morning!

I think you're talking about the steel bushing that spaces the flex plate out from the back of the engine, right? The one that's a couple cm thick & heavy? I did remove that one. It came off stuck to the flex plate side of it. Here's a picture of that bushing I think you're talking about:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/689/23869702806_2d0c96082c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Cnht37)DSC_0553 (https://flic.kr/p/Cnht37)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5644/23527747919_d7622166bd_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BR4RLc)Closeup Spacer (https://flic.kr/p/BR4RLc)

Here's a closeup of that picture of the crank (boss? -I think Nollywood coined the term?) I'm still learning nomenclature here..
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5652/23527748179_0a1016099b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BR4RQF)Closeup Crank Rear (https://flic.kr/p/BR4RQF)
It looks like there is no spacer there, and the middle portion protrudes out so the flywheel mounted over it. I think hubcentric is the correct term here?

I didn't see the need to put a thin spacer behind the flywheel. Not to say that's the correct way, but I didn't notice a need. My flywheel still rotated and I didn't seem to feel it grabbing on anything. The flywheel fit (seemed to me) just as close to the back of the engine as the flex plate did that I removed. I really hope that this isn't an absolute necessity.. as I've already mated and bolted the engine to the transmission.
Can anyone else vouch for one way or another (spacer behind the flywheel) as a necessity? Is it an optional thing?

Bhusted, how did you determine that your flywheel was actually rubbing on the rear main seal?

After we put the engine on the transmission, and lowered it to the mounts, I decided I'd give it a trial turn. I was able to hand crank the engine over, and it seemed like normal resistance of rotating an engine.
I did forget to use the motor mount perches from the A6. Once we got those on the A4 the engine slid right on them.

I've got some other issues to attend to, but I'll mention those in my own thread [;)]

Glad hear that you got it on there. I figured out that I needed the spacer when I bolted the flywheel on and tried to turn the engine over. It was totally locked in place. Closer examination showed that the back of the dual mass flywheel was barely contacting the rear main seal flange. If yours turns over by hand, then you should have no issue. Congrats!

[haliceaa4]

That little shim I needed also when I tried to turn the motor it caught

[mk1 rabbit gti]

I found that out the had way as well. No issue using an aasco flywheel though.

[haliceaa4]

Check this post (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/554401-4-2L-V8-Swapped-B5-A4?p=8987660&viewfull=1#post8987660) from my build.

Did u ever happen to rewire pins 30,47,48,81 from the 2000 to 2001 ecu swap?

[bhusted]

Yes. I'll have to look back through my notes to check what I did with them though. Are you using a ME7.1.1 ECU on an ART engine?

[TwoToes]

Props man. Nice work! Glad to see others that take pride in making their swap look as much like factory as I do.

[haliceaa4]

Yes. I'll have to look back through my notes to check what I did with them though. Are you using a ME7.1.1 ECU on an ART engine?
Yea but I'm using a 2001 harness also if u have any info that would be greatly appreciated

[T.Hell]

I would also like to get some more information about that. I´m almost ready to try starting my engine for the first time, but I have only added the clutch switch and the return light switch plug. I´m using engines own ME7.1 ECU, so I´m not even sure do I need to do those other pin removals and VSS stuff?

Also trying to figure out what kind of crossmember I´m going to use. There is no space for the 1.8T that many others have used and I noticed that are you using any crossmember?? In those first page pictures doesn´t show how you have done it.

[Nollywood]

Notched 1.8T crossmember is what you need. It won't clear the V8 / V6 aircon compressor otherwise.

[T.Hell]

This is weird but for some reason that 1.8T crossmember doesn´t work in my swap [confused] Pictures (http://www.audiclub.fi/audifinns/showpost.php?p=1225303&postcount=109)

I´m planning to cut the tube section off and adding a new (smaller) tube between those plates that clears the alternator and the lower inlet pipe of the radiator. I also have to bring the radiator a little forward, because it hits the thread part of the fan pulley.

[Nollywood]

^^^ Grind the threaded section off the fan pulley, so it's flush.

The 1.8T crossmember has worked on ALL of my B5 V8 swaps.

[Nollywood]

I've looked at your pictures. Use a V6 alternator, it's a bit smaller. I've used the stock V8 alternators with zero clearance issues, your engine must be sitting further forward than normal.

Are you running a spacer between the engine and transmission?

[T.Hell]

Actually that alternator is from a V6 and the engine seems to be where it supposed to. Engine mount brackets should be correct ones, no spacer, and trans mounts bolts right up to subframe. All I can think is that the front section of my A4 is somehow different?? Is it even possible?

But I don´t let this bother me too much. It does make me do some extra work, but nothing too bad [:D]
Maybe I get the grinder and cut that threaded piece off. But before that I have to check, is there enough room behind the radiator for those AC pipes.

[haliceaa4]

Are u using the audi a6 4.2 engine mount bracket? I think if u don't it will push it forward

[haliceaa4]

1.8t
left p/n
8E0199351M
8E0199351A*
8E0199351F
8E0199351

Right p/n
8E0199352N
4B0199352B*
8E0199352
8E0199352D*
8E0199352F

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160120/186821c8f5feb38d829737d57a8de29c.jpg

C5 a6 4.2
Drivers side p/n 4B3199351C
Passenger side p/n 4Z7199352B

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160120/0e4c3ae7886c185ccadc8268d61e3264.jpg

Correct me if I'm wrong the 1.8t sits further forward

The p/n for the a6 could be wrong I'll have to look more into them

[T.Hell]

Yes, my brackets are from A6 4.2 (4B3199351C/4B3199352C). And like I said, trans mounts bolts right up in their own places, so everything should be right.

[haliceaa4]

Is it recommended to use the crossmember? Cuz I've seen a few of these and haven't seen them use the cross member or are u just using for the front mount?

[T.Hell]

That question has crossed my mind too. And thats why I asked bhusted about it because I didn't see one in his pictures. Is the front bumpers cross beam enough?

[haliceaa4]

It doesn't seem like that would do much especially if ur cutting it I mean I'm sure anything would be helpful but I've seen many run without it

[Audihere!]

Bhusted, did you have to do any wiring on the ecu plug for the clutch switch? I just finally test drove mine and its increasing rpm when i push in the clutch while driving but not while sitting and idling. This is what someone directed me to:

http://breakoutmotorsports.com/index.php/v8-swap-clutch-switch/

Aside from that, also had a window regulator break on me after the drive around the block. The window regulators were all replaced relatively recent before the car was down for 2 years... is there any brand aftermarket that will last longer than this? Perhaps the sitting did damage but it seems very ridiculous to me when it was purchased and installed at the dealership maybe 3 yrs ago and only used a year in reality...

[Nollywood]

I have never run a B5 V8 without a crossmember, and I wouldn't advise anyone else to do so.

The bumper is nowhere near rigid enough to prevent the frame rails from moving. Hard cornering will distort them after a while. Remember your front tow eye is part of this beam. If you retain just the ends of the crossmember, and your car is ever towed, or winched onto a flatbed, the strain will bend the frame rail, before it pulls the car.

Make it work, and fit it.

[wolfe2118]

Is it recommended to use the crossmember? Cuz I've seen a few of these and haven't seen them use the cross member or are u just using for the front mount?

I didn't use the crossmember. The reality is that even if there was some "flex" that this piece of intercooler tubing(let that sink in for a second) was preventing, what harm could it possibly do? If by chance you plan to make some big power and race the car and want something to tie together the frame rails, you will want something much more solid than the factory intercooler tube anyways. I simply cut the tube off flush so I retained the tow hook that has seen plenty of use pulling out cars in the winter time and once pulling bushes out in my back yard. I've been through two winters and almost 30,000 miles with no issues. My pullies are 1/4" away from my radiator with no signs of contact and I'm not using a front engine mount either.

[Audihere!]

I have never run a B5 V8 without a crossmember, and I wouldn't advise anyone else to do so.

The bumper is nowhere near rigid enough to prevent the frame rails from moving. Hard cornering will distort them after a while. Remember your front tow eye is part of this beam. If you retain just the ends of the crossmember, and your car is ever towed, or winched onto a flatbed, the strain will bend the frame rail, before it pulls the car.

Make it work, and fit it.

I dont have the crossmember on mine, i figured the subframe being bolted to it on both side would suffice, i also have billet subframe bushings too though along with a core support reinforcement bar that is run off the engine mount brackets. You have me second guessing myself though

[Wrath And Tears]

I didn't use the crossmember. The reality is that even if there was some "flex" that this piece of intercooler tubing(let that sink in for a second) was preventing, what harm could it possibly do?

I always thought it was a structural support that they also used as intercooler piping, not the other way around. Totally could be wrong though.

[Audihere!]

I always thought it was a structural support that they also used as intercooler piping, not the other way around. Totally could be wrong though.

Ita certainly stout enough to be dual purposed, does the b5 s4 have this as well? I think the 2.8 cars didnt

[Nollywood]

Ita certainly stout enough to be dual purposed, does the b5 s4 have this as well? I think the 2.8 cars didnt

The B5 S4 and 2.8 have crossmembers, not tubular though. With their folded edge design, they would take as much loading as the tubulalar version on 4 cylinder cars.

[haliceaa4]

Hey guys! I got mine running months of wire diagrams and testing and ecu /crank sensor all to find out I got sent a 12v flywheel........ Put the new one in and wala started right up months of trying to figure out why is wouldn't spark don't so like me and make a stupid simple mistake. Now time to finish the rest

Thanks for the help a few of u gave me

[Audihere!]

What sorta temp range is normal for the 4.2? Mine is s6, according to my obd app its idling at 205, just a hair past the mid mark on the gauge where the left side of the needle is just about touching the mid line. Curious if i need to get it to run cooler than this is

[Nollywood]

Typically, the Audi V8 temperature will settle anywhere between 95 and 100 degrees C. When your temperature gauge indicates between 89 and 92 degrees C, it's generally a bit higher in real time. This is in a B5, and logged with VCDS.

[Audihere!]

Typically, the Audi V8 temperature will settle anywhere between 95 and 100 degrees C. When your temperature gauge indicates between 89 and 92 degrees C, it's generally a bit higher in real time. This is in a B5, and logged with VCDS.

When the app read at 220 the other day the engine temp gauge in the cluster was between the half and 3/4 mark. Is this a safe running temp or something to be concerned about? Not sure if the v8 just isnt meshing well with the a4 gauge or if i need to find a way to run cooler like the sandwich plate you guys mentioned

[Nollywood]

When the app read at 220 the other day the engine temp gauge in the cluster was between the half and 3/4 mark. Is this a safe running temp or something to be concerned about? Not sure if the v8 just isnt meshing well with the a4 gauge or if i need to find a way to run cooler like the sandwich plate you guys mentioned

The A4 gauge sender has the same calibration as that of the S6. The V8 engines DO run hotter, even in the bigger D2 engine bay. A thermostatically-controlled sandwich plate between the filter and housing would be a good idea.

Is your oil temperature gauge hooked up? Because that will be my main concern.

[T.Hell]

I would also like to get some more information about that. I´m almost ready to try starting my engine for the first time, but I have only added the clutch switch and the return light switch plug. I´m using engines own ME7.1 ECU, so I´m not even sure do I need to do those other pin removals and VSS stuff?
It took a bit longer than I thought, but I am now trying to get my engine started but with no result so far. Starter works fine and it cranks but nothing happens?
I believe I have a ME7.1 ecu (4D0 907 558A) and I would really like to know do I have to do any other mods to those ecu plugs? If not, I must check my wirings.

[Audihere!]

It took a bit longer than I thought, but I am now trying to get my engine started but with no result so far. Starter works fine and it cranks but nothing happens?
I believe I have a ME7.1 ecu (4D0 907 558A) and I would really like to know do I have to do any other mods to those ecu plugs? If not, I must check my wirings.

Sounds like what i dealt with too, im assuming yours is a 1.8 car initially? If so you need to jump power to fuel pump, fuel injectors, and ignition coils in order for it to fire. Im not great at the newer wiring since i have been building classic cars for a long time which have no ecu etc so i ended up having to take the car in to a shop to have that part done for me, even after several attempts as I am not one to give up easily haha.

[T.Hell]

My car is 2.8 30V (ACK), but the problem seems to be same. But I have connected those wires between 2.8 and 4.2 in the ecu box so they should be fine. Is there a reason why they need new power wires? Or am I missing a power line from somewhere?

[bmoreS4]

No need to open the ecu. It's DEFINITELY ME7.1

The ideal A6 ME7.1.1 ecu is 4D0907560AE. That's from a 2001 so it's a hybrid CAN-Bus ecu that can still accept non CAN signals as well. Do not get a 2002-up, as you'll have issues getting the ecu a VSS signal. As for the wiring changes, I can write something up. You use your harness with a few pinout changes. Nothing drastic. Biggest thing is adding a wire to pin21 and running a diode so the car shuts off with the key instead of staying running for a second or two after!


You make me want to do a v8 swap just because of how helpful you are

Daz is amazing, one of the most intelligent and helpful people Ive even meet on the forums.

Do what he says and youll be happy lol

[king84]

My car is 2.8 30V (ACK), but the problem seems to be same. But I have connected those wires between 2.8 and 4.2 in the ecu box so they should be fine. Is there a reason why they need new power wires? Or am I missing a power line from somewhere?



ACK's are 12V. Don't you meen ATQ's?


#B5v8ABZswap
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Audihere!]

+1 for Daz... cant say enough praise about that guy. I had an issue using a euro s6 file where the CEL wouldnt function(early 2000s euro didnt have it on file) so he went in and wrote it into my file after sending someone he knew to my HOUSE!

As for it not firing and being a 2.8, is your 2.8 drive by wire or drive by cable because that would matter. Also were you afforded the opportunity to fire the 4.2 prior to pulling to know that things like the crank position sensor are good? Is the immobilizer defeated on the ecu?

[T.Hell]

That 2.8 is drive by cable and it is 30V ACK (different codes in Europe). My crank position sensor is not from the same car than the V8 but was taken from a working car. Engine is from a -99 A6, and as I understand there is no immo. Can be wrong thou... but if there was immobilizer shouldn´t it at least run for a second or two?

[Audihere!]

That 2.8 is drive by cable and it is 30V ACK (different codes in Europe). My crank position sensor is not from the same car than the V8 but was taken from a working car. Engine is from a -99 A6, and as I understand there is no immo. Can be wrong thou... but if there was immobilizer shouldn´t it at least run for a second or two?

The fact that its drive by cable could be the issue and it may not be plug and play like the facelift 30v drive by wire 2.8 would be. So you may be in the same boat of jumping power to coils, injectors, and fuel pump in order for it to run on top of converting to drive by wire pedal set(not sure what that entails exactly as i didnt have to do that). Immobilizer would allow it to fire very briefly and shut off. The crank sensor may or may not work being from a different engine but did you use the 4.2 spacer on the crank position sensor?

[bhusted]

My car was originally DBC and I did no additional jumpering to get power to the injectors/coils. My engine code was AHA. Your ACK may be different in europe.

Do you have access to VCDS? If so, you should start looking at measuring blocks while cranking. Does the ECU show an RPM while cranking? Do the cam position sensors register an angle? Are the injectors firing? Have you checked for spark?

[T.Hell]

I have a VCDS-lite, but haven´t used it much. I hope I get some information out from those measuring blocks with it.
I pulled one plug out and tryed starting, and there was no spark.

What if I have coil and injector wirings mixed up? In tinytims swap thread message #118 is the harness pinout for 4.2 and in that those wirings go to same colors (black/blue and green/yellow). In my diagrams those same pins goes to opposit colors (black/blue -> green/yellow and green/yellow -> black/blue). I know it is a long shot, but I´m attempted to try change those wires and see what happens.

[king84]

I have a VCDS-lite, but haven´t used it much. I hope I get some information out from those measuring blocks with it.
I pulled one plug out and tryed starting, and there was no spark.

Are you ICM's hooked up?

[Nollywood]

Are you ICM's hooked up?

I don't think he's got any of those, if his V8 is a 40V.

[T.Hell]

Yes my 4.2 is 40V.
Well I checked the wiring and there was the problem. Earlier I mentioned those coil and injector wires, those and a third wire (for valves that drives intake manifold flaps and some other) were wrong. After I rewired them, the engine fired up :D but only for a second. There IS an immobilizor, so that have to be defeated. But it works, wuhuu... :D

[king84]

Good job. [emoji322]


#B5v8ABZswap
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bhusted]

Congrats.

[layuca]

Good morning,

I am almost done with a similar swap, but instead of a B5, I swapped a BBD (2002 S6) engine into a 2000 A6 with an 01E. I had the ECU flashed with the Euro S6 file. I have been driving the car for awhile, but I am trying to button things up. The ECU was not registering speed. Reading your post, I saw the notes from ddillenger (RIP) and installed a newer model speedo (mine was from the 2000 A6). The ECU now gets speed info. The car is suffering from rev hanging and jerkiness. When looking at the cruise control on VCDS and pressing the clutch, the hex number on VCDS does not change from 0. I believe the wiring to Pin 39 is right and tried with a normally closed switch as well as a normally open switch and there is no difference on the reading.

I mainly get two fail codes on VCDS; no TCU (which I can't do anything about), and no communication to the ABS. Within the ABS section of VCDS, I can clear that off, but on the engine side it keeps coming up.

I wonder if when you (or Tiny Tim) did your swap if you had to also swap to the later model ABS module (I have 5.3), or if there is anything else you can think off. By the way, I am using the stock harness from the S6 engine, so I did have to make two adapters for 2 connector plugs that are in the ECU plenum box, the red and the white. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[bhusted]

I did not swap the ABS module. If you don't have the clutch switch working, it will cause all of the symptoms that you're seeing. With the ECU tuning from Daz, I don't have the TCU or ABS communication error.

[layuca]

I did not swap the ABS module. If you don't have the clutch switch working, it will cause all of the symptoms that you're seeing. With the ECU tuning from Daz, I don't have the TCU or ABS communication error.

ty much

[layuca]

I found out the hard way that Pin 39 was not recognizing the clutch switch because the soft coding on the ecu, while it had been flashed for manual, was still for the tip tranny. It's all good now. Thanks.

[bhusted]

No problem. Glad you got it sorted out.

[B3trayus]

I never got the chance to ask, and didn't see it posted anywhere, but what year car did you start with?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[bhusted]

My car began life as a 99.5 2.8L.

[4Loops]

So bhusted, I've been asking around about the motor mounts.
Looks like you used the stock 4.2 mounts from the C5, right?
And it looks like you did not do anything with the front torque mount (left it free to wiggle around).

Questions are on this:
*Am I right on my observations above?
*If so, are you worried about the right side mount (the side the engine wants to pull up on, when it's applying torque) separating?? Have you noticed any such issues?

At the moment I'm trying to decide if I should try to fabricate a front torque mount setup and stay with other stock mounts, maybe get new, stronger mounts for the left and right side and leave the torque mount floating, or if I should worry about this at all, if the stock mounts will be just fine.

[Audihere!]

So bhusted, I've been asking around about the motor mounts.
Looks like you used the stock 4.2 mounts from the C5, right?
And it looks like you did not do anything with the front torque mount (left it free to wiggle around).

Questions are on this:
*Am I right on my observations above?
*If so, are you worried about the right side mount (the side the engine wants to pull up on, when it's applying torque) separating?? Have you noticed any such issues?

At the moment I'm trying to decide if I should try to fabricate a front torque mount setup and stay with other stock mounts, maybe get new, stronger mounts for the left and right side and leave the torque mount floating, or if I should worry about this at all, if the stock mounts will be just fine.

Personally im running b6 s4 4.2 stern engine mounts and stern 01e mounts and it is locked down entirely. It does not lift when revving, feels solid but still doesnt transfer too much vibration even with solid billet subframe bushings

[buffalo4404]

hey man do you know if you can use an engine out of a 2000 a8?. then engine code is AUX. thanks

[Nollywood]

hey man do you know if you can use an engine out of a 2000 a8?. then engine code is AUX. thanks

The short answer is yes.

You'll need to use both engine brackets off a C5 V8. This involves replacing the oil filter bracket and cooler, with a C5 V8 item, as it also incorporates the right-hand engine bracket.

It would also be wise to use a C5 V8 harness.

[audinutt]

2000 a8 came with akb. Aux was 2001-2003

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[buffalo4404]

@audinutt Yes my mistake....will this engine work as long as i get everything else from a 4.2 a6 (harness, ecu, subframe brackets, coolant res, power steering res, downpipes, etc) thanks

[mk1 rabbit gti]

I have an a8 AUX in one of my b5's with a 2000 s6 wiring harness and a6 mounts, brackets, and oil cooler.

[Audihere!]

I just got done installing the rs6 sandwich plate and external cooler on my avant, the car has been running much hotter than i want it to. After driving it late last night, it seems to be running about 10-15 degrees cooler(maintained 205 and when id get on it a couple times it would get closer to 210) but i havent yet driven it in the las vegas heat. From here, if this doesnt cure the 220-225 degree temps, its changing the mkiv radiator(2 row) out for 3 or 4 row and possibly deleting the ac if that takes up too much room.

So to the sandwich plate install. I ordered an entire upper engine mount bracket with the sandwich plate from germany, I got it for $120 shipped which is pretty awesome, especially vs prices here in the states. I had bought an aftermarket sandwich plate with a thermostat and it wouldnt fit over the 4.2 m24×2 thread size and the machinist i took it to drug his feet for over a month so i got fed up and ordered oem, and im glad i did. The rs6 version has a 2 step thread size for the sanwich plate which youncan see in the pics, this unthreads from the housing so you can do this without pulling apart the whole side of the engine and having to drain coolant etc with the cooler being inside the bracket.

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160722_191606_zpsiniiedy9.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160722_191606_zpsiniiedy9.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_194000_zpsgb8vyn1b.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_194000_zpsgb8vyn1b.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_194018_zps31lluiiv.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_194018_zps31lluiiv.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_195322_zps2re7qbau.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_195322_zps2re7qbau.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_153916_zpsrbutv6jp.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_153916_zpsrbutv6jp.jpg.html)

[Audihere!]

Another mod today after I saw that the sun was damaging my new expansion tank through the hood vent, I deleted the expansion tank and installed an inline radiator fill cap. Im running evans waterless coolant so no need for an expansion tank at all. Perk was, the expansion tank was seemingly trapping heat and preventing the driver hood vent from functioning to its full ability since it sat right under the vent causing me to shave the vent even. So after the rs6 sandwich plate external oil cooler and now the expansion tank delete, the car is holding below 200 at about 198 while moving and can reach 205 sitting still. Havent driven any respectable distance yet but i am STOKED to say the least! At once more its holding that temp when it was about 115 today in las vegas

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160807_151357_zpsyyqpuc5f.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160807_151357_zpsyyqpuc5f.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160807_145901_zpsdvmwfsxh.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160807_145901_zpsdvmwfsxh.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160807_143504_zpsydxr9zcu.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160807_143504_zpsydxr9zcu.jpg.html)

[pee quu]

I am running into the same issue with doing an oil cooler. I have the s6 4.2. I need 24mmx2.0 but no one sells that size. even the o34 kit wont work.

[Audihere!]

I am running into the same issue with doing an oil cooler. I have the s6 4.2. I need 24mmx2.0 but no one sells that size. even the o34 kit wont work.

Source an rs6 upper bracket like i did with a sandwich plate and from there you just need lines, cooler, and AN fittings to adapt to the sandwich plate

[pee quu]

I need to replace the entire bracket? or Id be able to just take the plate off? My bracket has the oil cooler in it from factory, not sure if you had that too

[Audihere!]

I need to replace the entire bracket? or Id be able to just take the plate off? My bracket has the oil cooler in it from factory, not sure if you had that too

Look at the above pics of my rs6 sandwich plate conversion, the upper bracket is the same as c5 a6/s6 but the 24x2 thread for the oil filter can be unthreaded from the housing and so can the one off the rs6, the rs6 sandwich plate fits the 24x2 thread but it is secured by a thin nut(you can see the 2 step thread and the thin nut in the pics). If you get the entire upper bracket it should have the sandwich plate on it and can just pull the thread and nut off it too to secure it, otherwise youd have to get into cutting a normal 24x2 nut to have something to secure it. Oem rs6 sanswich plates can be found but they are 200+ from shokan coachwerks or 500 at the dealership unless you can find it somewhere else, i got my entire upper bracket from germany for way less than just the plate cost used within the US. Check the last several posts here

[pee quu]

Last time I checked my bracket I thought it looked different than yours that's why I asked lol Ill have to get under the car and look again.

[jasongtr]

some great info in the thread.

i am also doing a B5 V8 swap.

My car is a B5 RS4 and im fitting a C5 S6 engine, - seems wierd to do it to an RS4 but i broke the car for parts and got out the entire value of the car so when its back on the road it wont owe me much and i ill have an RS4 with a 4.2 v8, lots of new parts for not alot.

i am using a TTV racing lightweight 6kg flywheel with a std rs4 clutch, the flywheel is designed so i dont need the gearbox spacer, ive used the s6 ali front engine mout brackets and s6 engnie mounts, the engine still seems to sit a little higher and further forward than others ive seen as you can see in the picture, so much that ive had to cut part of the top of the frnt panel away to clear the cambelt covers - any ideas why?

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff297/ultimagtr/20170311_173432_zpsutwy03k8.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/ultimagtr/media/20170311_173432_zpsutwy03k8.jpg.html)

the rad is a mk4 ali one as any use

need to sort the immob out but it fires up (then obviously cuts out right away due to the immob) so i think that proves the wiring is ok, being a full facelift car and an s6 engine/loom all i did was pugged the bulkhead plugs in and ecu plugs - no headache at all so far

[pee quu]

some great info in the thread.

i am also doing a B5 V8 swap.

My car is a B5 RS4 and im fitting a C5 S6 engine, - seems wierd to do it to an RS4 but i broke the car for parts and got out the entire value of the car so when its back on the road it wont owe me much and i ill have an RS4 with a 4.2 v8, lots of new parts for not alot.

i am using a TTV racing lightweight 6kg flywheel with a std rs4 clutch, the flywheel is designed so i dont need the gearbox spacer, ive used the s6 ali front engine mout brackets and s6 engnie mounts, the engine still seems to sit a little higher and further forward than others ive seen as you can see in the picture, so much that ive had to cut part of the top of the frnt panel away to clear the cambelt covers - any ideas why?



the rad is a mk4 ali one as any use

need to sort the immob out but it fires up (then obviously cuts out right away due to the immob) so i think that proves the wiring is ok, being a full facelift car and an s6 engine/loom all i did was pugged the bulkhead plugs in and ecu plugs - no headache at all so far

1- love the idea of a 4.2 in an RS4

2- I also cut the under side of my hood to clear the cam belt covers and trimmed the rad support around the belt covers as well. I am using Stasis 1.8t mounts with the V8 mount brackets. I know it makes the motor sit a little higher but that's fine with me because that gives ground clearance with the oil pan

3- just delete the immob, that's what I did

[haliceaa4]

You can notch the subframe and space down the mount brackets which will lower the engine a bit if needed. I can latch my hood but not lock it down so I drilled for hood pins in my hood it was dented anyway lol. The hood sits up a bit maybe eventually I'll cut into the hood or if I'm feeling ambitious drop the frame and space down the motor.. Prolly not tho lol

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[jasongtr]

there was no need to cut my subframe, engine sits fine with the s6 mounts and brackets that have been spaced 10mm

immo has been done now, but sorry i wont be leaving the immo off a B5 RS4

so it runs fine now, i still need to add the clutch switch wire from the bulkhead to the ecu

[haliceaa4]

I didn't have to cut mine either but u were saying it sits up higher that's what I read u can do to move it down a bit

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[jasongtr]

subframe cant have anything to do with the height the engine sits as its relating to the ali brackets the mounts bolt to and those ali brackets bolt to the frame rails.

struggling to see how a notch in the subframe will make the engine sit lower (assuming it wasnt sitting on the subframe of course which mine wasnt)

[haliceaa4]

I haven't done this I only read... u lower the brackets from the Subframe which in return lowers the engine but also pushes the oil pan into the subframe

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[haliceaa4]

This is a B6 a4 but same concept u push down the brackets that hold the Mounts with spacers but it will bring u closer to the subframehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170505/08b4b209006488e057a7753026729834.jpg

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[jasongtr]

i understand that, ive lowered my engine by 10mm and its still not near the subframe, reckon i could do another 5mm but it will then compromise the angle the brackets sit in the subframe rubber mounts

[haliceaa4]

Hmm I wonder if oil pans are different on some engines because I've heard people having to cut into the subframe and they didn't even space down.. Werid I know there's differences in subframe mine was a 1.8t maybe urs came lower in the rs4
I also am using the stock a6 4.2 Mounts some use the stern Mounts maybe

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[haliceaa4]

Lol sry I'm not much help I'm more conversing because I've been considering lowering my motor because of it hitting the hood. But I'm also now thinking about the difference between the stern engine mount and the stock a6 one and if I go thru all the trouble and find out it lowers the motor and now I have to cut into the subframe...

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[jasongtr]

i know there are differences in the subframes for different engines

[pee quu]

I notched my sub frame. Came in real handy when I had to pull my trans. If I didn't cut it I wouldn't have been able to get to the lower bolts.


Audihere!- how much more oil are you adding at oil changes since you added the external oil cooler.

[jasongtr]

must be the differences in the subframes then as mine isnt nothced and i had to pull my gearbox off and didnt have any issues getting to the bolts

[pee quu]

I used s4 sub frame since I did a 6 speed swap with my swap. I was told I needed to notch the sub frame so we did it before we even put it in lol

[jasongtr]

ah ok, i put mine in before i even knew anything about the need to notch them

[B3trayus]

If you began the swap with a 1.8t car, plan on notching....or get a 2.8 subframe and swap it over

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[4Loops]

I just got done installing the rs6 sandwich plate and external cooler on my avant, the car has been running much hotter than i want it to. After driving it late last night, it seems to be running about 10-15 degrees cooler(maintained 205 and when id get on it a couple times it would get closer to 210) but i havent yet driven it in the las vegas heat. From here, if this doesnt cure the 220-225 degree temps, its changing the mkiv radiator(2 row) out for 3 or 4 row and possibly deleting the ac if that takes up too much room.

So to the sandwich plate install. I ordered an entire upper engine mount bracket with the sandwich plate from germany, I got it for $120 shipped which is pretty awesome, especially vs prices here in the states. I had bought an aftermarket sandwich plate with a thermostat and it wouldnt fit over the 4.2 m24×2 thread size and the machinist i took it to drug his feet for over a month so i got fed up and ordered oem, and im glad i did. The rs6 version has a 2 step thread size for the sanwich plate which youncan see in the pics, this unthreads from the housing so you can do this without pulling apart the whole side of the engine and having to drain coolant etc with the cooler being inside the bracket.

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160722_191606_zpsiniiedy9.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160722_191606_zpsiniiedy9.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_194000_zpsgb8vyn1b.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_194000_zpsgb8vyn1b.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_194018_zps31lluiiv.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_194018_zps31lluiiv.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_195322_zps2re7qbau.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_195322_zps2re7qbau.jpg.html)

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j399/Audihere/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_153916_zpsrbutv6jp.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Audihere/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_153916_zpsrbutv6jp.jpg.html)

Hey Audihere!, you said you ordered an RS6 upper engine mount bracket/oil cooler with the sandwich plate. It sounds like you simply removed the sandwich plate and the threaded pipe from the RS6 engine mount bracket/oil cooler, and installed them to your engine's mount bracket/oil cooler -am I right? So all you really needed here was the sandwich plate and the threaded pipe?

-If that's the case, I was considering doing the same, but I have found an oil cooler/engine mount with the sandwich plate and the threaded pipe holding these together, from a 4.2 Toureg. I'm thinking this should still be fine, since I should expect this oil cooler should be the same as the RS6's oil cooler mount -with a removable threaded pipe, long enough to hold on the sandwich plate.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olfiltergehause-VW-Touareg-4-2-V8-AXQ-228-KW-310-PS-077115405K-/321955240349?hash=item4af607199d:g:X~0AAOSwSlBY0tS i

What do you think about this plan? Nollywood, do you think this is a good way forward? I could keep my oil cooler that's already on my engine, and replace the threaded pipe and add the sandwich plate. -I hope this will work, as the mount/cooler from the toureg is half the cost -or less- than the RS6 specific mount.

[Audihere!]

Yep, thats exactly what i did but when the engine was out I did change out the plastic coolant tube to the billet one so I had zero reason to remove the entire bracket again. I did have to order additional fittings to go with the external cooler etc but that is exactly what I did

[4Loops]

Awesome! Great to hear, I'll give that a shot then.
Yea, I also changed out the coolant tube with a gruven aluminum pipe while the engine was out.
Do you know remember what size fittings you got to fit the sandwich plate fittings? -I've got to order an oil cooler and lines too. Any recommendations?

[Audihere!]

The sandwich plate fittings are m22-1.5, i used 10an fittings for my set up so ordered a set of those and then got the external cooler off ebay(came with the cooler, braided lines, and a sandwich plate that youll not use), its the cheapest route i could find. I'll also be receiving the fabbed aluminum core support for mine soon too so ill have more room for the coolers(have matching coolers for oil and power steering). The size of cooler i used required removing the fog lights on the s4 bumper

[Ephry73]

The sandwich plate fittings are m22-1.5, i used 10an fittings for my set up so ordered a set of those and then got the external cooler off ebay(came with the cooler, braided lines, and a sandwich plate that youll not use), its the cheapest route i could find. I'll also be receiving the fabbed aluminum core support for mine soon too so ill have more room for the coolers(have matching coolers for oil and power steering). The size of cooler i used required removing the fog lights on the s4 bumper

Good info. Wonder if a fan with a thermoswitch would help in this case or maybe even a bigger cooler.


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[4Loops]

Excellent, I'll check out that route too.
Wish I could find an S4 bumper. Sure would help with airflow. That, and it looks a bit better.
So did you find that the stock power steering cooling pipe just wouldn't do the job? -Or did you install a finned P.S. oil cooler as a 'just in case'?

[Midnightblkb5]

good stuff bro! hard work pays off


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[pee quu]

I just did the same exact thing!

I had ordered an rs6 oil cooler plate and it came with the motor bracket and the oem hard lines off the cooler to the plate. worked out great. I actually got my set up with the help of Nolly. I have also noticed a 10-15 degree drop in oil temp. It hasn't gotten super hot here in NY but I have noticed the difference on the oil temp gauge

http://i.imgur.com/yCj9bmQ.jpg

[4Loops]

I just did the same exact thing!

I had ordered an rs6 oil cooler plate and it came with the motor bracket and the oem hard lines off the cooler to the plate. worked out great. I actually got my set up with the help of Nolly. I have also noticed a 10-15 degree drop in oil temp. It hasn't gotten super hot here in NY but I have noticed the difference on the oil temp gauge

http://i.imgur.com/yCj9bmQ.jpg

Wow, that setup looks fabulous. Pretty genius place (and way) to fit the oil radiator. Shrouding looks good. Wish I were ok-ish working with aluminum.

Say, what fans are you using there, Mr. Pee Quu? I can assume they keep your temps well in check? This is my next (and hopefully last) bottleneck.

[pee quu]

My buddy does all the fab work I just help with the ideas. Yeah we wanted the air to be guided into the fan once it went through the oil cooler

Fans I honestly couldn't tell you, my buddy ordered them. They work great temp stays planted in the middle. Only time it ever creeps is sitting in traffic in the middle of July and Aug, but it only goes past the half way mark MAYBE half way to the next line on the gauge and once you get moving it goes back to normal.. That or if I really beat on the car, I'm talking red line every gear and getting the speed past 100mph it will creep to the same point and once I get back to normal driving it will go back down. I have yet to meet anyone with a 4.2 swap who hasn't said the temp creeps in the same situations. Even my cousin who works at audi says the 4.2s are knows to creep a little in the dead of summer. its been this way over the last 3 years. at first I was a little iffy with it but I'm ok with it now. I did the oil cooler in attempt to help this, not sure if it will even do anything as far as motor temp, but we will see once summer fully kicks in

[Nollywood]

Looking great, guys.

To help with engine bay / under hood temperatures, I've ordered a spare hood. I'm actually getting Audi Sport Quattro-style vents stamped into it.

[Audihere!]

When i did my swap i added a smaller and longer cooler for the PS behind the grille but have found that i needed to relocate it to the driver lower front like a sidemount IC so i could configure my fans in a staggered set up. Ill be custom mounting an eaton m112 ford cobra supercharger so need to save room and run as cool as possible. The fabricated core support should free up a decent amount of room.

Side note, i have a silver s4 bumper available if you're lookin

[pee quu]

Looking great, guys.

To help with engine bay / under hood temperatures, I've ordered a spare hood. I'm actually getting Audi Sport Quattro-style vents stamped into it.

I have thought about doing a second hood with a custom cowl or tracking down a carbon fiber hood that doesn't look to ricer. Than I question water getting into the vents and falling on the motor/electrical parts.

[pee quu]

Ill be custom mounting an eaton m112 ford cobra supercharger

what else are you planning on doing to the motor to go along with this? I have seen a lot of guys make custom intak manis and slap s/c under them and call it a day. I have thought about this but if I did do a custom blower I want it to be super reliable for the long run.

[Audihere!]

Ill either be using a ctsv liquid intercooler or a cobra intercooler in the manifold, a killer chiller to refridgerate the intercooler(it splices into the ac, also off a cobra), ill either be using rs6 pistons or stacking gaskets/decompression plates to lower the compression(another guy is tryin this on his now with a single turbo set up so we'll see how that pans out), and possibly going to e85/e50 fuel with larger injectors.

[Audihere!]

My hoods vented now, engine bay gets a lil dusty but rain hasnt been a real issue sonce the vents are over the edge of the valve cover above the exhaust manifolds so the coil packs arent being drenched but I also live in las vegas so rain isnt a big issue here

[4Loops]

Interested to see how these vented hoods look. I've seen bhusted here in his thread working on installing vents, but I don't think I saw the finished product.

Very excited to see a charged v8 in the b5! How do you plan on tuning the ECM for all these changes?

Your bumper is not the one with the shark-gilles on the sides is it? I am not partial to that look myself, a bit too aggressive for me. -At least for my current style liking.
I'd have to see how much Greyhound freight or the "bicycle shipping" services would cost to ship, to see if it's worthwhile having it shipped a third of the way across the country, or if I should just keep my eye out for one locally. Hopefully paint wouldn't kill me on price, too. But afterall, I have considered getting the hood and front quarters resprayed anyway..

[Audihere!]

I put up photos of my vented hood on this thread a ways back, pesonally i like it a lot. Tuning so far was done by Daz but he has since passed away so id be likely using the guy that has done his best to replace him named Mirza.

The bumper is an actual b5 s4 oem bumper, the ones with the shark gills are usually rs4 knock offs but the oem rs4 bumpers are quite nice but very expensive since rs4 wasnt available in the states. Greyhound would cost about 100 bucks to ship, ups etc are likely well over 300.

[4Loops]

I saw your pics earlier of the cuts on the blue hood, the vents in the primered black hood, but I just haven't seen what they look like as a finished product -on the car, with the whole car assembled. I imagine they look quite at home.

I'll have to keep Mirza in mind. I've discovered that the intake I ordered from the A8 is a two stage manifold, where my motor wants the 3-stage -and I think Daz's tune for the 4.2 in the B5 w/ manual was for a 3 stage. So I'll have to get that sorted out.

Didn't know the RS4 wasn't offered here. Figures. All the really good stuff never seems to come here. The wide body definitely completes the B5's sleek look to give it that proper aggressive look.

Yea, I guessed shipping would be somewhere in that ballpark. I'm trying to budget funds for this project more tightly as of late. The bumper's not a complete necessity at this point, but I'm curious what price you have in mind for it. -I could PM you on this I suppose. Maybe I should also price out the cost of a respray, to see if it's in my best interest to look for an in-tact and in good shape s4 bumper from a black car.

[Audihere!]

The s6 and s8 have 2 stage intake manifolds and a6/a8 have 3 stage. The tune can be adapted to you particular set up, my tune is a euro s6 manual trans file that Daz wrote the CEL into because euro didnt have it at the time.

S4 bumpers generally cost between 450-600 for decent to great condition, anything cheaper will be a basket case and/or missing lots of items like washer caps, filler plate, and grilles etc Id be lookin for 500 for mine(just parted out an s4 so have the spare)