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View Full Version : I got that long stroke...(2.1 95.5mm build)



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SpeedWorksAuto
12-04-2009, 12:24 PM
Well, after stumbling across a HELLAFIED deal on parts, I threw all ideas of 1.8t with high rpms, and 92.8mm 2.0 out the door.

You wont belive how much I got all this stuff for, and the guy was just plain awesome to deal with.[race]

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00132.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00134.jpg
scat rods, JE stroker pistons for 95.5mm crank, ALH 95.5mm stroke crank, oil pump, cam chaim tensioner, raceware headstuds, arp main studs, and more..... Package deal

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00133.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00135.jpg
Oh and the AEG 92.8mm stroke crank from when I was considering 2.0

SpeedWorksAuto
12-04-2009, 12:29 PM
I already have a ported and polished AEB head With Inconnel exhaust valves from when I did a "drop in rod install". I dunno who can actually just do that.

Atex
12-04-2009, 01:29 PM
This is something I've always fantasized about since I'm more a fan of the 'pedal = go' scenario instead of the 'pedal = ........ now go'.

What rpm's are you planning on setting the redline, what other goodies are you planning on throwing onto that bad boy?

SpeedWorksAuto
12-04-2009, 05:10 PM
I plan to turn it no further than 7500rpms. Hopefully I wont need to. I am only going with a upgraded 3071r.

I will do cams,W/M inj, and thats about it.


Block is going to the shop tomoro.....

Quattro 4 Life
12-04-2009, 05:28 PM
that's Christmas come early right there! looks like you've got a fun project ahead

mcaanda
12-04-2009, 06:24 PM
Ha, total score. http://lh3.ggpht.com/_evqBnv4L5AI/SQfrfui15RI/AAAAAAAACWQ/RrFMZV0MEBc/s800/excellent.gif

I think that motor in the last couple three months has been through more pre-install setup & changes than Paris Hiltons been seen in poor quality sexy time vids. http://lh4.ggpht.com/_evqBnv4L5AI/SQfr8k02ujI/AAAAAAAACX8/3WuaI3iLWqk/s800/secret.gif

Kyle H
12-04-2009, 06:41 PM
What will the compression ratio be with that setup? sounds like a good way to go. [up]

SpeedWorksAuto
12-04-2009, 07:42 PM
9.5:1 CR. I am all the lowend, and offboost driveability. I live in a hilly area, and downshifting to keep the car spinning at 4000 rpms just to go up a steep incline is for the birds.

qttroking
12-04-2009, 08:19 PM
I guess ive never understood increasing stroke, it can become unstable in high rpms where BT's are actually of use.

SpeedWorksAuto
12-04-2009, 08:26 PM
huh? I guess if you built the motor all wacky, and didnt match up your turbo to your build.....that would be true.

I am going modest on the turbo. In the end it will be a HTA3076. Now if I was going to a 35R series, then yeah I would build the 2.0 and rev the piss out of it.

Kyle H
12-04-2009, 08:53 PM
9.5:1 CR. I am all the lowend, and offboost driveability. I live in a hilly area, and downshifting to keep the car spinning at 4000 rpms just to go up a steep incline is for the birds.

I like your style. A lot. I've been wanting to see somebody do a relatively high compression, high displacement build for a while. Are you planning on doing a race gas tune as well as pump or sticking with pump? What are you doing for tuning, maestro 7? Are those 83.5mm pistons?


Sorry for all of the questions, I just love the sounds of this build [:D]

SpeedWorksAuto
12-04-2009, 09:05 PM
I am not sure on the tune yet. If I go Maestro, I will probably make a couple tunes. I think they are just 83mm pistons.

Hopefully this thing will be back together by the end of the month, and I can figure out the tune then. I will still have time since I will run it at low psi until the motor is broken in.

Lou_B5
12-04-2009, 09:16 PM
Yay! Another stroker build!
Looks great man!

SpeedWorksAuto
12-04-2009, 09:46 PM
I can blame this on you and your HTA3076 talk Lou... I was like.....I want that, then you went 2.0, I was like....I want that. This envy crap has to stop.

SpeedWorksAuto
12-05-2009, 09:15 PM
Block is now at the shop. He gave me a week and a half turnaround time for deck bore, and blanace. YAY!

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00136.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00137.jpg

jrock
12-06-2009, 01:55 AM
How bout HTA3076 instead?

SpeedWorksAuto
12-06-2009, 02:43 AM
Yeah, thats what my 3071R will end up being when I send it in to FP.

viceprp
12-06-2009, 06:40 AM
Keep us updated on your progress! This is a dream of mine that I hope to never wake up from!

BTW: How is "Home Cooking the Costco Way" going for ya?

jrock
12-06-2009, 10:55 AM
Looks like Militant Grunt is about to have his HTA3076 for sale too if its not already![:D]

sean1.8t
12-06-2009, 06:19 PM
I guess ive never understood increasing stroke, it can become unstable in high rpms where BT's are actually of use.

only if you build it wrong. with all tolerances being good and the RA being balanced well enough he could rev this thing past 8k. not that he'll need to as it sounds like he's building it for a more mid-range powerband. and there isn't anything wrong with that.

good luck with the build OP [up]

Lou_B5
12-06-2009, 06:45 PM
I can blame this on you and your HTA3076 talk Lou... I was like.....I want that, then you went 2.0, I was like....I want that. This envy crap has to stop.

So addicting isn't it? lol

looks like you are not cutting corners. This is going to be sick!

Sales@RAI
12-06-2009, 09:22 PM
Good luck!

SpeedWorksAuto
12-07-2009, 08:23 AM
Quick Question, what happens if I use a VVT cam chain tensioner in my VVT car?

SpeedWorksAuto
12-29-2009, 11:47 AM
So, the machinist called today and said all my work is done. He had to fuse the trigger wheel from my stock crank to the new one since he said they wouldnt just swap over. He had the new keyway notch milled into the end of the crank for my timing pulley. The block was bored and honed with a deck plate, and the rotating assembly from pulley to pressure plate was balanced. He also cleaned and polished my crank.

Hopefully I wont have to deal with the flywheel coming loose and breaking bolts anymore. For a little piece of mind I am still going to run the ARP flywheel bolts, and evertything is getting a healthy shot of loctite.

The damage? In the end I am out $435.oo....."cash or check only". Kinda weird that he doesnt take cards, so I will have to squeeze the cash out my butt and go get my parts.

Anybody in the Pacific Northwest/Greater Seattle area need some Audi/VW work done hit up NW Connecting Rod. They specialize in Audi/VW motors, and will surprise the crap out of you as far as what they just might have sitting on their shelves......stroker cranks already polished ready to install for 150.00 plus core....amongst a ton of other things.
The guys there also seem to have a lot of experience building race/stroker air and watercooled VW motors.

SpeedWorksAuto
12-29-2009, 09:56 PM
I scrounged up the money and picked up my parts.

Flywheel and Pressure plate w/balance work done:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00174.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00175.jpg

Rods and Pistons labeled as balanced:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00176.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00177.jpg

Crank and pulleys balanced:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00178.jpg

Keyway milled for stock 1.8t crank pulley:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00182.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00184.jpg
Work done to "fuse" the two trigger wheels:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00179.jpg

Block Decked and Bored:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00180.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00181.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
12-29-2009, 10:56 PM
Piston and rods assembled:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00185.jpg

un1ko
12-30-2009, 08:01 AM
Awesome project, so that's why you sold me the rods. Because you're going from a 2.0 to a 2.1. Awesome!! I can't wait to stroke my engine.

Lou_B5
12-30-2009, 08:16 AM
looking good!!

quickaudi07
12-30-2009, 08:23 AM
ha, total score. http://lh3.ggpht.com/_evqbnv4l5ai/sqfrfui15ri/aaaaaaaacwq/rrfmzv0mebc/s800/excellent.gif

i think that motor in the last couple three months has been through more pre-install setup & changes than paris hiltons been seen in poor quality sexy time vids. http://lh4.ggpht.com/_evqbnv4l5ai/sqfr8k02uji/aaaaaaaacx8/3wuai3ilwqk/s800/secret.gif

lmfaoooo x2

SpeedWorksAuto
12-30-2009, 11:30 AM
un1ko I dropped your rods off at the shop last night to have the big end bores checked. I didnt want to send you garbage. I am on my way to pick them up along with my thrust washers.

My 2.1 setup uses the same 144x20mm rod, thanks to the custom JE piston.

un1ko
12-31-2009, 06:54 AM
Cool! Thanks a lot! Just email me the tracking # Thanks!

I might also go with JE pistons, I hear a lot of good things about them. My only concern is, if I need look for special pistons that won't touch any of the oil squirts, mind you that I have a AEB block. I hear that people put spacers under the oil squirts, but I'd prefer not to touch them.

SpeedWorksAuto
12-31-2009, 11:29 AM
From what I have read/heard JE pistons are stronger, but they need more clearance since they expand more once heated up.

michael66899
12-31-2009, 01:14 PM
Looks great man can't wait to see this thing running and maybe get a ride if I'm lucky. I think its awsome you went with the bigger stroke for a little more displacement and I'm really happy to see you went with a healthy compression ratio, I hate when people drop it way down there. Its funny I was going to do the drop in rod install as well but decided I love torque too much so I ditched the A4 and picked up an S4 for cheap that needs a new cylinder head. I just pulled the head off last night and was going to start calling some machine shops when I saw your post and decided to give NW a call. Talked to Jerry for awhile and got some things figured out. He's a great guy and really knows his ish, I'll probably be dropping the head off down there early next week so he can get to work on it. Good luck man she should be a beast.

SpeedWorksAuto
12-31-2009, 02:43 PM
Yeah, Jerry is awesome to deal with, and they seem to know their Audi/VW stuff.
I also been looking at S4's lately. They been popping up on CL for cheap in the area alot lately.

SpeedWorksAuto
12-31-2009, 02:44 PM
All coated bearings:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00187.jpg

Crank in the block:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00188.jpg

Setting the ring gap:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00189.jpg

I have a few of the rods and pistons installed. I had to take a break since the ragedy ass piston install/ring compressor broke. On a side not I have zero clearance issues with the rods and the block thanks to my 06A block.

SpeedWorksAuto
12-31-2009, 06:44 PM
Finally got the rods and pistons installed:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00190.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00191.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00195-1.jpg

Oil pump on:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00194-1.jpg

Last one for the Night:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00198.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
12-31-2009, 06:52 PM
So far the build is goign semi-smoothly. If it keeps up like this The car should be together and running late Saturday.

SpeedWorksAuto
12-31-2009, 06:53 PM
So far the build is going semi-smoothly. If it keeps up like this The car should be together and running late Saturday.

michael66899
12-31-2009, 09:19 PM
So far the build is going semi-smoothly. If it keeps up like this The car should be together and running late Saturday.

Sounds good man, keep us posted and a video is a must, don't go driving around all week and leave us hanging, ha good luck. [up]

SpeedWorksAuto
01-01-2010, 02:04 PM
Guess everything will have to be on hold....I seem to have lost 1 freaking flywheel bolt. Summit has them, but they aint shipping until the 4th. [headbang]

Anybody know any other sources for the ARPs that fit?

SpeedWorksAuto
01-02-2010, 02:14 PM
setback #2[headbang]
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00208-1.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00207.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00205.jpg

One ruined AEB head. Oil starvation to the head = jacked up cam journals. Lucky for me Absolute German is right down the road and they had a AEB on the shelf for 100.00. Double stroke of luck, my machinist is a couple of blocks away from Absolute, and he just so happened to be sitting at his desk playing on the internet.[up]

I need to drop off the ruined AEB so he can swap out my inconnel exhaust valves into the new head.

A4DRIVR
01-03-2010, 08:35 AM
So far the build is going semi-smoothly. If it keeps up like this The car should be together and running late Saturday.

You should never say this kind of stuff... it always comes back to bite you in the butt!!! I thought mine would have been done last year, and here it is 2010!!!


ON a serious note... lookin good! Glad to see another stroked 1.8t build!!!

SpeedWorksAuto
01-04-2010, 12:32 AM
Thanx man....Hopefully these will be the only kinks this time around.

Lou_B5
01-04-2010, 08:33 AM
You want to find every possible obstacle or problem now rather then later. Keep finding stuff.
Just keep the eye on the ball as they say. You will be up and running soon enough. THE WAIT IS WORTH IT!!

SpeedWorksAuto
01-04-2010, 12:05 PM
This morning I was searching Summit's website for some ARP flywheel bolts and I came across these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-151-2801/
PKG. of 6 @12.25

They are the correct m10x1.0mm thread for our crank, and they measure 1.150 UHL (underhead length)

Instead of the kit I was recommended and ordered before http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-254-2801/
PKG of 8 @ 39.95

Two more bolts @ over 3x the price?

Needless to say I "threw em in da bag"

SpeedWorksAuto
01-04-2010, 05:12 PM
Head at the shop has bad exhaust valve guides. So, for the all time low price of 450.oo its getting rebuilt [=(]

This is rediculous.....

I may have another line on a good head with some 3651's though [evilsmile]

A4DRIVR
01-05-2010, 04:14 AM
Head at the shop has bad exhaust valve guides. So, for the all time low price of 450.oo its getting rebuilt [=(]

This is rediculous.....

I may have another line on a good head with some 3651's though [evilsmile]

Let me know what you want to do with the one you don't want... I'm running a small port head, and want to keep my options open for more HP!!!

SpeedWorksAuto
01-05-2010, 07:49 AM
If you want I can go down there and pick up that other AEB for you. It was only 100.oo.

nunya
01-05-2010, 08:03 AM
If you want I can go down there and pick up that other AEB for you. It was only 100.oo.

I may need another AEB core for the head build i am building. The first one had the wrong install height and bad lifters but some other good parts, schrick 260's, techtonics springs and retainers, etc. I have a buddy sending down a slightly built (springs, retainers, +1 valves, etc) AWM to use for parts to make one good head.

I cant figure out if its the core i am working with, ADR EU n/a big port 1.8, or the parts. We will soon see. If its the core i am using i will need another AEB core. The ADR shares all the gaskets and glanges as the AEB, who knows.

--dillon

A4DRIVR
01-05-2010, 08:15 AM
I may need another AEB core for the head build i am building. The first one had the wrong install height and bad lifters but some other good parts, schrick 260's, techtonics springs and retainers, etc. I have a buddy sending down a slightly built (springs, retainers, +1 valves, etc) AWM to use for parts to make one good head.

I cant figure out if its the core i am working with, ADR EU n/a big port 1.8, or the parts. We will soon see. If its the core i am using i will need another AEB core. The ADR shares all the gaskets and glanges as the AEB, who knows.

--dillon

"glanges" sound gross... prolly shouldn't share those!



Sorry.

nunya
01-05-2010, 08:19 AM
"glanges" sound gross... prolly shouldn't share those!



Sorry.

Flanges :-P

SpeedWorksAuto
01-05-2010, 05:04 PM
Well, if anybody needs LMK.

I think they already took the cams and the valves out.

A4DRIVR
01-05-2010, 06:17 PM
Well, if anybody needs LMK.

I think they already took the cams and the valves out.

Perfect!!! That's exactly what I need... I wonder if the cam journals are in good shape?

SpeedWorksAuto
01-05-2010, 09:55 PM
Yup, I checked them out.

A4DRIVR
01-06-2010, 04:32 AM
PM me with more info on it... I'm interested in buying it.

SpeedWorksAuto
01-06-2010, 05:06 PM
[up] pm'd with info.

SpeedWorksAuto
01-07-2010, 09:13 PM
Got a call from the shop, and is time to pay the bill......yay me[=(]

mcaanda
01-08-2010, 04:08 AM
Say those sweet words that every shop loves almost as much as cash...VISA :P

SpeedWorksAuto
01-16-2010, 02:25 PM
So....I got my 30.oo cams that I bought over on the 'tex in yesterday.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00227.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00229-1.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00228.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00226-1.jpg

I cant wait to throw these suckers in....[drive]

I specifically asked him if the journals are good, especially seeing how mine turned out. On top of that there is massive surface rust, on the lobes and journals. Enought surface rust to where I believe there is pitting. Yeah, there's no scotchbrite remedy for these bitches.

I guess you get what you pay for LOL.

SpeedWorksAuto
01-16-2010, 02:34 PM
On a brighter side, I was able to go to the shop and look what I got!

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00225-2.jpg

450.00 CASH only gets you:

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00231-1.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00232.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00234.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00235-1.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00236-1.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00237.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
01-16-2010, 02:43 PM
The head has a valve job, new guides and seals, and it is so clean ya just wanna lick it. I was really hesitant to drop the cash, but now I feel so much better knowing I have one less thing to worry about failing. Top notch work. The pictures do this thing no real justice. The deck job is so immaculate it looks like it was polished. I am a machinist, and I am blown away by his shop's work.

And, on top of that, he GAVE me a set of cams that were freaking spotless.

Imma say this again.....GO TO NORTHWEST CONNECTING ROD to get your work done. He will hook you up!

Lou_B5
01-16-2010, 03:52 PM
amazing work and price point! Love the new head look!

Mawhitey
01-16-2010, 04:53 PM
You coul eat you dinner off that head, it's a work of art.

Great build, keep up the good work.

Quick Q, the cams with the damaged journals, are they OEM ones or CAT's? Just curious

SpeedWorksAuto
01-16-2010, 05:36 PM
The ate up replacements where stockers.

A4DRIVR
01-17-2010, 04:55 AM
If I'd of known you were lookin for some stockers... I would have sent you my old ones simply for the cost of shipping. They're just two big paper weights plus... then I would of been able to help you out, like you're helping me (with the core).

SpeedWorksAuto
01-17-2010, 07:11 PM
He says "I was told by my friend that they were fine for use. I looked over the lobes and there was no damage to them" LOL...[confused]

When I opened the box my girl was like...why they so rusty, and arent they supposed to be shiny. LOL, I asked her too point out the reasons why they arent useable. Those are her fingers pointing to the cams.

UPS must have it out for me making my cams all rusty, and jacking up the journals.

mcaanda
01-17-2010, 07:21 PM
If the gurl called it out... http://lh5.ggpht.com/_evqBnv4L5AI/SlIehXqJMUI/AAAAAAAADeU/Dy-4UJdeeYI/s800/damnit.gif

SpeedWorksAuto
01-18-2010, 09:55 PM
Homeboy made good with the cams. He said he really didnt know what he was looking at, and his buddy said they were ok to use. So......

SpeedWorksAuto
01-18-2010, 10:02 PM
Cams dead NUTZ: (for once)
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00249.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00248.jpg

All together now:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00250.jpg

And a mostly assembled head:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00247.jpg

Hopefully I will be able to reassemble the whole thing soon. Maybe make some story about being scary fast..................(yeah I'm hating...hella jealous)

Lou_B5
01-19-2010, 04:28 AM
Maybe make some story about being scary fast..................(yeah I'm hating...hella jealous)

In due time... it's worth the wait. plus you got that looong stroke. [o_o] [>_<] [up] [up]

Cams looking good there.

A4DRIVR
01-19-2010, 05:30 AM
Hopefully I will be able to reassemble the whole thing soon. Maybe make some story about being scary fast..................(yeah I'm hating...hella jealous)

Don't be hatin'!!!![cool]

I will tell you... the wait is well worth it. I'm stoked that there are several of us completeing the same project at the same time... can't wait to hear what you have to say once yours is running.[o_o]

A4DRIVR
01-19-2010, 05:31 AM
One more thing... looking at the pictures, I can't seem to tell if you used any assembly lube??? Just checking.

SpeedWorksAuto
01-19-2010, 06:32 AM
Ya, I used tons of assembly lube. I am still scared of what happened to the other head.

michael66899
01-19-2010, 11:09 AM
The head has a valve job, new guides and seals, and it is ya just wanna lick it cuz its so clean. I was really hesitant to drop the cash, but now I feel so much better knowing I have one less thing to worry about failing. Top notch work. The pictures do this thing no real justice. The deck job is so immaculate it looks like it was polished. I am a machinist, and I am blown away by his shop's work.

And, on top of that, he GAVE me a set of cams that were freaking spotless.

Imma say this again.....GO TO NORTHWEST CONNECTING ROD to get your work done. He will hook you up!

Couldn't agree more, I finally took my heads down there last week and all I have to say is that Jerry is the shit. He's hooking me up big time and they do amazing work down there. I'm glad I saw your recommendation and made the drive down there, totally worth it. I think I saw a few parts from your car laying around last time I was in there ha, atp mani on the floor in the front. Good luck man I can't wait to see this thing all put back together. [wrench]

SpeedWorksAuto
01-19-2010, 04:45 PM
Yup, that was my ATP mani and more than likely my head was next to it wrapped in a whole Sunday paper, taped tight, and bound with a roll of plastic.

He said you had got the head done for your S4, and he really appreciated me sending you his way. I called him when you said you were heading down so he would know to hook you up since I referred you to him.

SpeedWorksAuto
01-21-2010, 10:42 PM
So time to put this to use today...
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00271.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00262.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00263.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
01-21-2010, 10:46 PM
But first I had to make sure the bills were paid...

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00255.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00261.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00260-1.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00258-1.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00259-1.jpg

Had to fill a order of whateverthehelltheyrcallits......

SpeedWorksAuto
01-21-2010, 10:55 PM
And now for some the stuff that REALLY matters:

I decided to take my ATP mani in today and mill all the flanges flat again. I hate running gaskets in between the turbo and the mani, and the mani to the wastegate. Just something else to blow out.


All taken apart:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00251.jpg

In the chem tank:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00252.jpg

Yeah I am lazy: I'm doing it in the NC. Took me about 5 minutes to write up a facing program at the control. Shaved about .020" off each face, and got a really nice finish in no time.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00254.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00253.jpg

Setting my Z axis: Probably should have used the probe, but this worked just fine.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00265.jpg

And, doing the damn thang:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00266.jpg

One side done:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00267.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
01-21-2010, 10:56 PM
I didnt have time to finish it today, but you see where this is going....RIGHT?

Lou_B5
01-22-2010, 10:21 AM
I didnt have time to finish it today, but you see where this is going....RIGHT?

In the classifieds? What are you doing with that t25 manifold? Making it a T3?

SpeedWorksAuto
01-22-2010, 10:33 AM
UHM, actually it's a T3...[confused]

Sales@RAI
01-22-2010, 11:37 AM
damn those machines are awesome

Lou_B5
01-22-2010, 12:14 PM
UHM, actually it's a T3...[confused]

For real? Damn I'm seeing things. LOL [>_<]

SpeedWorksAuto
01-22-2010, 05:13 PM
Ya, I am real fortunate to have all this at my disposal. Plus, I am Mastercam certified so its basically whatever I want, if I have the time, I can make it. Oh, and the parts we make go on our own brand of Water Jet machining centers, so I have a few of those at my disposal too.

SpeedWorksAuto
01-22-2010, 05:15 PM
C'mon Lou........[headbang]

Gimme some credit. I went t3 so one day I can step it up to bigger better things and be like you...LOL

michael66899
01-22-2010, 10:28 PM
Looks great man, very jelous of the cnc lathe, we have one here but I've never used it, I just use the manual one. I manage to do a pretty damn good job on it, but you just can't replicate parts like a cnc one. Thanks for giving Jerry a call I really appreciate it, needless to say he gave me the HOOK UP[up]. Just picked up the heads today and they look awsome, just waiting for my headbolts to come in and I'll start buttoning this damn thing up. Any ideas when you might have yours finished up?

SpeedWorksAuto
01-23-2010, 12:39 AM
Crap man, we have manual machines here too. I am just too lazy to run them. For one off simple crap I just throw it in the 3 jaw. For heavy material removal, complex parts, multiples, I will set up a CNC in a hot minute. Plus, I hate cleaning up two miles of chips.

I am hoping to have my car together within a week or so. I have all the parts, just not all the time. Tomorrow I think I can get the bottom end actually in the car, probably have the head bolted up too. After that its just simple hooking everything back up.

I am still waiting on my guy to get back with me for a tune. I think I am going to take the down time waiting on my tune to get some more custom one off parts made for my setup. I am thinking about ordering some fuel rail stock from Ross machine and setting everything up to run the 630cc injectors. Also I think I want to make my catch can more of a billet piece. I've been eyeing a nice hunk of 6061 aluminum roundstock.

Would be nice to see the S when you get it done. Ive never been in a S4 before, and I am very curious to see what all the fuss is about. You doing anything else to it while you got it apart?

Insomniac
01-23-2010, 01:11 AM
Wow, must be nice to have downtime like that at work to get your own stuff done.
I keep bugging my brother(cnc foreman) to make me stuff but they keep signing national defense contracts worth way more attention than my small stuff.

Looks like a great build. Like to see people building engines for their own needs.

SpeedWorksAuto
01-23-2010, 02:17 AM
I was able to finish them off today:
Three surfaces on the mani and the flange from the turbo. They are fresh out of the sonic tank.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00272.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00274.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
01-23-2010, 02:22 AM
I still need to figure out what thread these things use so I can go in and chase the threads. Also one thing that is really bugging me is the major mismatch between the manifolds outlet and the turbo inlet. On the turbo it is pretty rectangular. The manifold...I dont know what that shape is, I am just going to call it abrupt.

I am really considering seting it up and milling it to match the shape of the turbo inlet a little better. I dont think I will match it up perfectly since there is really no way to align them once installed. By keeping the manifold smaller I am hoping to avoid any turbulance or whatever from the possibility of a misaligned outlet/inlet. BLAAH BLAH BLAH....[:(]

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00267.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
01-23-2010, 02:32 AM
Oh, I already worked the other side of the mani when I built the motor the first time with just rods:

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00075.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00077.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00078.jpg

As you can see the ports are round-ish:

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00079.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00082.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00083.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00084.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00089.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00091.jpg

So, I bored it out so the ports were perfectly round, then I hand ported the runners to match up to the new shape. Then I fly cut the surface to make it flat. I couldnt believe how bad mine was warped. All this I did almost a year ago.

Lou_B5
01-23-2010, 05:44 AM
Very nice!! Now I seeeee. This thing is going to rip.

SpeedWorksAuto
01-26-2010, 07:25 PM
SOOOOO..............does anybody have, or know where I can get a clutch alignment tool. I cannot find mine, and nobody local has or can get me one.

f15046
01-26-2010, 08:53 PM
Southbend can get you one. I ordered a throwout bearing from them once and i asked about the clutch alignment tool, and they threw it in for free.

Sigma 3
01-26-2010, 09:15 PM
Great build man[up] ! I was just on your side of the mountain a couple of days ago I could have grought mine to ya. If you need it and dont want to buy one pm me and i will get it in the mail to you this week. Again nice work.

SpeedWorksAuto
01-30-2010, 12:24 PM
Guys help me pick a new turbo. I am looking at the Precision lineup. I am thinking 5857 or 6057. There are a ton of options though. I know I am goin with a .63 exhaust, I dont know about the compressor housing though.

Which one of the two turbos you think would fit my car better. I thing I have the bottom end covered as good as its gonna get. I want something to get that mid to top end poppin. Since I have the displacement and stroke to handle daily off boost duties, I dont mind a bit of lag. Definately no 35r lag though.

Lou_B5
01-30-2010, 03:27 PM
yikes. both of those are good.

ahhhhh 5857

SpeedWorksAuto
02-01-2010, 08:42 AM
To keep the thread active:
I guess I can show how I changed the valvecover breather port to a -10 AN setup:

Stock port at end of the 1.8t valvecover is just a pressed in bung
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00056.jpg

Get yourself a set of pliers/vice grips and twist/pull the bung out
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00057.jpg

No drilling needed. For this setup it is easiest to go with a 1/2" NPT tap. Use a light oil in aluminum. WD 40 is fine. I bury the tap to the top of the threads to make sure the fitting will be fully engaged in the threads. Be sure the tap is straight, for the most part it should follow the hole is semi aligned.
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00058.jpg

New threads. Be sure to run the tap a few times to clean and debur the threads.
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00059.jpg


Easy as pie...............

now you are read to install your 1/2 NPT to -10 AN fitting. THis should make it easier to run a nice clean looking catch can setup.

SpeedWorksAuto
02-01-2010, 08:46 AM
next up is the fitting I made to allow me to run a -12 AN line from the stock crank case/oil filter housing location.

I know 034 sells this piece, but I am a do it myself kind of a person. Since I have access to a lathe and a mill....why not?

I started with raw T6-6061 AL. round stock 1.625 O.D. I turned it down mimicking dimensions fromt he cut up stock piece and ended up with this.
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00030-1.jpg

I then drilled the hole, ran a 3/4 NPT tap, and now it is ready for the adapter to run it to the -12 AN fitting. Here You may be able to see where I milled flats on the sides so I can slip a wrench on when I install the fitting.
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00062-1.jpg

On the backside I bored it out as far as I felt comfortable. Probably not needed since the fitting and lines I.D. will be much smaller.
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00061.jpg

Here is the finished part, tap, and a few raw parts.
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00060.jpg

With this setup I should be able to run a 3/4"line from the crankcase port to my catch can setup now.

bernB5
02-01-2010, 01:14 PM
i'd get an hta 3076r

Lou_B5
02-01-2010, 04:11 PM
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00059.jpg


Easy as pie...............

now you are read to install your 1/2 NPT to -10 AN fitting. THis should make it easier to run a nice clean looking catch can setup.

so sweet! Hey man, I'm thinking of adding a check valve in this location. Any ideas?
I spew way too much oil from this port into the can. Routing the hose in a downward position does not help the situation either.

Altech75
02-01-2010, 04:21 PM
i'd get an hta 3076r

I'd get a HTA GT2768R with a high compression ratio installed in the block. At the very least it'll have a really good torque curve and the high compression ratio will make it both responsive and efficient. It's what I plan on doing some day.

Edit: I meant to say a HTA GT2868R. After more looking around I really don't know what I'd go with. Guess I'll cross that bridge when it comes.

SpeedWorksAuto
02-01-2010, 04:29 PM
so sweet! Hey man, I'm thinking of adding a check valve in this location. Any ideas?
I spew way too much oil from this port into the can. Routing the hose in a downward position does not help the situation either.


Are you running two seperate lines, one from the crank case and one from the valve cover to your can?

SpeedWorksAuto
02-01-2010, 04:30 PM
I was thinking about doing the HTA to the 3071. I dunno though.

Def not going to anything smaller than 30ish

bernB5
02-01-2010, 06:48 PM
yeah, a 3071 is fun as well. depends what your goal is for the car.
a 3071 on a 2.1l will feel absolutely awesome.

Lou_B5
02-02-2010, 01:06 PM
Are you running two seperate lines, one from the crank case and one from the valve cover to your can?

Yes. But the valve cover one dumps a shit load more then the crank line.

Lou_B5
02-02-2010, 01:09 PM
I was thinking about doing the HTA to the 3071. I dunno though.

Def not going to anything smaller than 30ish


Then you want an hta 3076r. said to spools like a 71r but flows like a 35r.

terraflata
02-02-2010, 02:00 PM
Then you want an hta 3076r. said to spools like a 71r but flows like a 35r.

I've heard similar. That's why I am going with it. 57lb/min of flow. But spool on a 1.8 can be had around 4200. I would love to see the spool on your 2.1!

-Terraflata

SpeedWorksAuto
02-02-2010, 05:09 PM
Yes. But the valve cover one dumps a shit load more then the crank line.

Why would you want a check valve there? Wouldnt that somewhat defeat the purpose of having the can? the pressure should only be going one way unless maybe you have a line hooked up to a vacuum source pre-turbo, and you also have your diverter valve on recirc. Maybe then it would see boost....between shifrts as the diverter did its thing.

I dont remember a TON of oil coming out, but I do remember there being a good bit coming out.

SpeedWorksAuto
02-02-2010, 05:14 PM
I think Imma go with the HTA 3076, especially so since I spent a few hours getting my inlet/mani outlet all matched up.

Pics later.

Lou_B5
02-03-2010, 05:25 AM
Why would you want a check valve there? Wouldnt that somewhat defeat the purpose of having the can? the pressure should only be going one way unless maybe you have a line hooked up to a vacuum source pre-turbo, and you also have your diverter valve on recirc. Maybe then it would see boost....between shifrts as the diverter did its thing.

I dont remember a TON of oil coming out, but I do remember there being a good bit coming out.

Thanks. Report back with how much oil you are seeing after the build is done.[;)] Where are you going to mount your can?

SpeedWorksAuto
02-03-2010, 12:21 PM
I ran the catchcan already...this is my second time building the motor.


ADD.....come to think about it I also had mine draining back to the pan.

dcampana
02-03-2010, 12:25 PM
I think Imma go with the HTA 3076, especially so since I spent a few hours getting my inlet/mani outlet all matched up.

Pics later.

looking forward to the end of the build and vids/ pics.

i think this will be a great choice....

SpeedWorksAuto
02-03-2010, 10:22 PM
Work on the mani/turbo inlet completed now:

Before:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00303.jpg

A little layout fluid and some lines scribed to show where material is being removed.
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00304.jpg

"I get it in":
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00305.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
02-03-2010, 10:26 PM
About done:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00306.jpg

Compare now to the turbo inlet:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00307.jpg

Resurfaced and ready for some work on the inlet to match the new shape now:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00310.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
02-03-2010, 10:29 PM
Roghed out the inlet shape:
mostly just some taper so the exhause flow isnt slamming into the mismatch in the corners.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00308.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00309.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
02-03-2010, 10:33 PM
After a bit more shaping work on both parts:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00311.jpg

And all that work to get two matched up openings:
looking throught the mani into the turob inlet....
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00317.jpg

The rest is just a the tedious job of getting everything smoothed out.......[wrench]

SpeedWorksAuto
02-03-2010, 10:51 PM
The next chapter.................[wrench]
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00320.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
02-03-2010, 11:02 PM
Flywheel bolted on with the ARP bolts:
Also you can see where I removed the material to make it work with my sprung hub clutch disk, counterbored the holes to clear the ARP bolt heads. I also pressed in some stainless steel inserts to be more of a precision fit to the bolts and keep the holes from elongating and deforming the aluminum when the bolts where torqued down.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00287.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00288.jpg

bmx_a4
02-03-2010, 11:24 PM
All this makes me wish I had money for a build, lol.

A4DRIVR
02-04-2010, 04:29 AM
And a fully stocked machine shop to support it! The attention to mechanical detail is awesome... just what I like to see!

SpeedWorksAuto
02-05-2010, 12:54 AM
The home stretch:
I like to put the shortblock in first. Its easier for me this way to get the clutch, transmission, and all the bellhousing bolts together, especially since I do all this by myself.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00324.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00323.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00322.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00321.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
02-05-2010, 12:56 AM
And, on my lunch break i ran home....:

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00325.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00326.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00327.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00329.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
02-05-2010, 02:45 AM
Something about this oil cooler is bugging me. Does the thing trap the crap that is in the oil too? I.E. metal particles? I dont wanna run something that may be full of crap on my new motor.

A4DRIVR
02-05-2010, 06:02 AM
I quick word of advice... I see you paint/powder coated your engine accessory bracket. The one with the alternator...

Make sure you cleaned off the paint on its contact points with the motor, and well as with your alternator. The reason is that the bracket provides the ground for your alternator, and it will not charge without it!!! I know this, because right now I have a temporary ground wire run from my alternator mounting bolt to a clean ground in order for my car to charge. It's ugly, but functional.

You may already took this step... however, I didn't want you to be ithe position Im in now, since I'm going to have to pull the front end off again to fix this.

SpeedWorksAuto
02-05-2010, 10:00 AM
I didnt know that. All the mounting points must be metal to metal.

I painted the stuff when I took the motor apart the first time and everything worked when I ran it 1.8t with rods and mods.[headbang]

Thanks for the heads up. [up]

Lou_B5
02-05-2010, 10:19 AM
Something about this oil cooler is bugging me. Does the thing trap the crap that is in the oil too? I.E. metal particles? I dont wanna run something that may be full of crap on my new motor.

I thought it was just coolant running through it. [confused]

SpeedWorksAuto
02-05-2010, 10:44 AM
I dont know. There are holes on the top and the bottom which I think let the oil run through the cooler and then out into the filter. I THINK the coolant flows through the tubes in the cooler like boost through a intercooler, and the oil would be flowing through it like the outside air through a intercooler...dunno if this makes any sense.

I could be completely wrong though, thats why I am asking.

bmx_a4
02-06-2010, 02:34 PM
I dont know. There are holes on the top and the bottom which I think let the oil run through the cooler and then out into the filter. I THINK the coolant flows through the tubes in the cooler like boost through a intercooler, and the oil would be flowing through it like the outside air through a intercooler...dunno if this makes any sense.

I could be completely wrong though, thats why I am asking.

I do believe you're right about that. Considering that if there ends up being a problem with the cooler, it mixes coolant and oil from what I've read. I've never had any issues with mine, so I don't know about that personally but that's what I've been reading on here about the subject.


Nice build btw!

terraflata
02-08-2010, 12:34 PM
The plate has coolant on one side, and oil on the other, the heat from the oil is exchanged through a small plate that divides the two. Apparently it is a very effective system, but I am going to be using an external oil cooler, possibly placed where the stock SMIC used to be.

-Terraflata

pja0750
02-09-2010, 06:41 PM
looks fun cant wait to see the end result!

SpeedWorksAuto
02-23-2010, 06:25 PM
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00333.jpg

Its not dead...I just been really bust at work. Still slowly putting in work when I can.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00335.jpg

I think I am going to run the oil supply line around the front of the motor along side the coolant line to the turbo. Last time I ran it around back it started to burn from being so close to the turbine/exhaust.

mcaanda
02-23-2010, 06:27 PM
Work faster, this weekly update crap has got to quit. Get that damn thing runnin!

A4DRIVR
02-23-2010, 06:28 PM
I run a turbo blanket and thermal wrap on the down-pipe and my under hood temp are way low... might be a good idea?

SpeedWorksAuto
02-23-2010, 06:42 PM
Crap.....couldnt get my posts to work.

Anyhow, let me see some pictures of your bay, and where you got your blanket from. I was considering that route.

Wizard-of-OD
02-23-2010, 06:45 PM
I must say your extreme attachment to a CNC mill makes me giddy inside
well done sir!

SpeedWorksAuto
02-23-2010, 06:52 PM
WOW, thanks! [:D]

Looks like my mill days are coming to an end soon. I am going to a shop the has the latest and greatest Mori Seike ZT series lathes. Live tooling, twin turret, sub spindle, all the axis you could ever want. [>_<] I am hella stoked. Them jokers will run circles around my two machines all day long.

MOtown A4
02-23-2010, 09:26 PM
WOW, thanks! [:D]

Looks like my mill days are coming to an end soon. I am going to a shop the has the latest and greatest Mori Seike ZT series lathes. Live tooling, twin turret, sub spindle, all the axis you could ever want. [>_<] I am hella stoked. Them jokers will run circles around my two machines all day long.

i told my boss that years ago and he still swears 3 machine cells are the wave of the future...

A4DRIVR
02-24-2010, 04:27 PM
Crap.....couldnt get my posts to work.

Anyhow, let me see some pictures of your bay, and where you got your blanket from. I was considering that route.

I got the blanket here: DEI turbo blanket (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010141/)

And here is an older shot of my bay...
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p6oPTBSDr5FN1XopOugX3tonldN6na1OagXIkN-7-ku84ZsiIhl37PpG0IILKrz4DPpd1cf8_GwoO0XCpYyP7bQ/IMG_0006%202010.01.29.2304.51.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
02-24-2010, 07:03 PM
I can never seem to get that exhaust wrap to look right around my o2 sensors. Show me how you got your downpipe setup.

A4DRIVR
02-25-2010, 06:48 AM
I can never seem to get that exhaust wrap to look right around my o2 sensors. Show me how you got your downpipe setup.

I'll try to get some better pictures of it on the car...

Here is the pipe wrapped before it was installed:
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p01nrnyQd_oKrvzftg_xj8peAn6XSkYwExZ17g_0ACkZG1q4 08Xp17bI5Oj-e8ET6eMfdjS3EMGsPM9sjvOqY6Q/IMG_0123%202009.11.28.2204.14.jpg

Sigma 3
03-01-2010, 04:12 PM
Looking good Cellus. Where did you get the heat shield for your valve cover?

SpeedWorksAuto
03-02-2010, 06:33 PM
The cover is the stainless one from 034, it just wrinkle painted black. I kinda bent it some more to get it to flow along the valve cover more.

SpeedWorksAuto
03-24-2010, 11:43 AM
I finally settled on a turbo...I think. I amleaning towards a Holsey HE35/40ish setup. I have it pretty much narrowed down to which particular one in that lineup I want.

SO, the gt3071 and downpipe gotta go to make room for the new setup.

mcaanda
03-24-2010, 11:46 AM
Dude, I just picked up a fresh Co2 and AR filled tanks - swing buy and we'll get that fab'd up for ya in no time. [cool]

[o_o] http://lh5.ggpht.com/_evqBnv4L5AI/SC9-1lcffBI/AAAAAAAAAP0/91GuHqCkLkg/s400/Miller%2021o%20%26%20Syncro%202oo%20-%20resized-0001.jpg [o_o]

SpeedWorksAuto
03-24-2010, 12:57 PM
You aint funny [=(]

Sigma 3
03-25-2010, 11:30 AM
Did you decide on a tune?

SpeedWorksAuto
03-25-2010, 11:42 AM
I am going with the Maestro.

mcaanda
03-25-2010, 11:50 AM
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_evqBnv4L5AI/S6uwKvOVoqI/AAAAAAAAFHI/UWDGrvsEfUQ/s800/sie.jpg

I had to http://lh4.ggpht.com/_evqBnv4L5AI/SQfr8k02ujI/AAAAAAAACX8/3WuaI3iLWqk/s800/secret.gif

SpeedWorksAuto
03-25-2010, 12:53 PM
U suck as a person

mcaanda
03-25-2010, 12:55 PM
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_evqBnv4L5AI/SQfsFrWWy3I/AAAAAAAACYs/q9ORZ9NlXkk/s800/trueconfirmed.gif

Sigma 3
03-26-2010, 11:22 PM
I am going with the Maestro.

Cool. Did you talk to Chris?

SpeedWorksAuto
03-27-2010, 12:00 AM
I talked to hime right after we talked. He didnt even offer me a tune, he went straight into pushing me into Maestro.

Sigma 3
03-27-2010, 12:43 PM
Hmm. My understanding is you get his tune with it,but this box allows more user control. I guess I need to get a ride when you finish so I can ummm educate myself further[:D]

SpeedWorksAuto
03-27-2010, 10:07 PM
Well, thats all I got left to get before she is running.

Lou_B5
04-07-2010, 04:14 PM
yet another reason to go with Maestro...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3qogKH-qSM
Yup that is 2step and no-lift shifts all through Maestro.

Today's update included beta for AWP/AMB engine codes. AWM should be next after it's finalized.

mcaanda
04-07-2010, 05:33 PM
People want their exhaust to do that?

Lou_B5
04-07-2010, 05:42 PM
People want their exhaust to do that?

oh yeah. If you knew what was behind that sound you would not be asking. :)

mcaanda
04-07-2010, 05:54 PM
oh yeah. If you knew what was behind that sound you would not be asking. :)

I almost dont want to ask, but inquiring minds want to know... http://lh6.ggpht.com/_evqBnv4L5AI/SQfr8czlu5I/AAAAAAAACX0/jIJZkhlx23o/s800/scratchchin.gif

SpeedWorksAuto
04-07-2010, 07:46 PM
Well, My Maestro was ordered Friday, and should be here any day now. Hopefully I can get her up and running ASAP with the software, have full readiness, jet down to emmissions, and get her registered. I have resistors to put in since I was told, that I need them in them in place of the missing solenoids to get adaptation.

SpeedWorksAuto
04-12-2010, 08:12 PM
Tried getting the software going today. I kept getting error messages. I tried to update the firmaware of the loader, no luck. I did a force upgrade and the software says it has updated. However, when I try to test the cable it just gets hung up on the checking firmware screen.

Also, the thing wouldnt read my ECU. It just kept giving me random error messages. I was really trying to have this thing running this weekend, but with this glitch I am yet agian at the mercy of someone far away and the not so right now emailing back and forth.

dcampana
04-13-2010, 10:12 AM
try pming Lou_b5 or a4-drvr.. i think they are both using Maestro as well...

A4DRIVR
04-13-2010, 11:50 AM
You know my number... give me a call and I'll see if I can help. I've had to do some troubleshooting myself with the software, and may have your answer!

SpeedWorksAuto
04-13-2010, 12:15 PM
I emailed Chris and he gave me a few suggestions to try. Whne I gte off at 4:30ish (pst) I will go straight home grab the laptop, and get to work. If I cant get the thing to work, I will most definately hit you up. I really would like to send Chris my file by the morning so I can get my new file and start the break in this weekend.

SpeedWorksAuto
04-13-2010, 06:05 PM
Got the software to work. I guess it needed some time to marinate. I just went to the car plugged it up and voila, it worked like it shoulda yesterday.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00376.jpg

I am also getting the last parts in. Since I was unsure about reusing the stock oil cooler I ordered an adapter from 034 that will allow me to go external.
http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?products_id=19652

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00375.jpg

I am going to just loop tthe lines on the cooler until I feel confortable plumbing in the cooler. I dont wanna get any trash in there from startup and the first few miles.

Lou_B5
04-14-2010, 06:35 AM
smart move going external. I don't like my oil temps with the stock cooler. I may convert in the future.

SpeedWorksAuto
04-15-2010, 08:56 PM
Couple days later and still no tune. I hope they get it to me tomorrow so I can get this car on the road this weekend.


On a side note, I have been palying with my wiring harness. I tried to get some pictures of it, I ran the harness quite a bit differently. I also rerouted the fule lines so they didnt cross over through the engine bay. All of this because intially I wanted to relocate all the harness that was stretched to the passengers side of the engine bay since I am going to switch all that stuff off in Maestro anyhow.

SpeedWorksAuto
04-15-2010, 09:06 PM
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00333.jpg

This will be the before pic I guess.

I ran the fuel lines straight up and into the grommet that the ac lines run into going to the rain tray/battery area.
The leftover harness comes out through a grommet behind the intake manifold now. I think I will be able to reuse the stock one from the ECU area.
The fuel lines pop out in a grommet in the same area.
The lines that connect that cluster of colorful connecectors bolted to the firewall has bee moved to the battery.

I still have a few things to clean up. I think I also want to use some sort of custom coolant tank, and I am considering relocating the power steering fluid resovoir to the battery tray, and relocate the battery to the trunk. Still need some sort of looming to clean up the wires, and still need to get the resistors onto the unused plugs. yay.......

Lou_B5
04-16-2010, 06:01 AM
I don't know why people keep saying they need resistors. I don't have any and I'm running fine. What's up wit dat?

SpeedWorksAuto
04-16-2010, 10:50 AM
you getting full adaptation, no cel's and have full readiness? Thats my main concern. I need to go through emissions like months ago, so I dont wanna be riding dirty for too long trying to get this thing figured out. You just have everything unplugged and switched off via Maestro?

Lou_B5
04-16-2010, 02:34 PM
you getting full adaptation, no cel's and have full readiness? Thats my main concern. I need to go through emissions like months ago, so I dont wanna be riding dirty for too long trying to get this thing figured out. You just have everything unplugged and switched off via Maestro?

No cel because the thing won't light up on my cluster mismatch with the engine harness. The only code I get is for not having n75 plugged in. Dave left to Maryland with it. All other ones are turned off in maestro. vvt, n75, sai, evap, blah blah blah

emissions is a different story. Since I don't have that here I'm of no help. What is "readiness" and "adaptation"?
All I know is that the car starts perfectly each and every time with a smooth idle.

SpeedWorksAuto
04-16-2010, 02:51 PM
Adaptation I think has to do with the computer compensating in the fuel trims. You can see your adaptaions via vagcom. I also think when you are logging in Maestro you are watching the adpataions. Its how much the ecm is adding or removing to bring the fueling in spec. I think.....

Readiness is what the emissions guy is going to be looking for when he plugs into my obd port. It also can be seen in Vagcom, I dont know about Maestro though, but more than likely.

Sigma 3
04-17-2010, 01:53 PM
you getting full adaptation, no cel's and have full readiness? Thats my main concern. I need to go through emissions like months ago, so I dont wanna be riding dirty for too long trying to get this thing figured out. You just have everything unplugged and switched off via Maestro?

That sucks. We dont have to do emissions testing over on this side of the state.

SpeedWorksAuto
04-18-2010, 10:44 PM
Well, she runs. Couldnt not get vids or nothing since my phone took a crap on me. After a little while of fighting it it, I gave it a break went and did some other things came back, and she fired right on up. Took a while to get it to stay running after being in motion. It finally got to the point where it will stay running.

I now need to deal with various oil leaks, get some new plugs, and get some tabs. It really started to bog down, But I think that has to do with the fact tha it was getting hot, and needs new plugs. I did the peg the boost gauge routine like all fresh new builds do.

Lou_B5
04-19-2010, 06:28 AM
Well done! Clean up time!

SpeedWorksAuto
04-20-2010, 10:14 AM
Apparently I had a valve stick.......Needeless to say the head is off and at Nortthwest again. [headbang]

A4DRIVR
04-20-2010, 10:18 AM
Apparently I had a valve stick.......Needeless to say the head is off and at Nortthwest again. [headbang]

Did it contact a piston? OR was is just not seating fully? And if you don't mind me asking... how does a valve get "stuck"... Machine shop screw up?

nunya
04-20-2010, 11:02 AM
Apparently I had a valve stick.......Needeless to say the head is off and at Nortthwest again. [headbang]

I have some extra stock exhaust valves if you need any. Free.

--dillon

SpeedWorksAuto
04-20-2010, 11:54 AM
The valvethat stuck was one of the intake vales in cylinder number 2. I think it got stuck open, smacked the piston a few times, got bent over ever so slightly and started to work on the exhaust valve. The timing was dead nutz. I was hoping tit was a blown head gasket, until I remembered hearing metalic tapping sounds as I tried to turn it over. It had just started to happen, I pulled the plugs did a compression check, and realized #2 was dead.

There wasnt ANY visible signs of contact on the piston, but there is no other way to bend the valve that I can think of. Timing was money, and if it wasnt, I had enought timing issure to know it would ben the exhaust valves, and the outer intake valve.

When I dropped off the head he said that it was overheated. I dont know how, but I guess anythings possible. I am hoping the exhaust valve, since it is inconnel, is ok. I dont wanna order a whole new set of them bitches just for one. Just a bent intake valve, R and R, return head and have it back together for the weekend. I hope

SpeedWorksAuto
04-20-2010, 11:55 AM
I have some extra stock exhaust valves if you need any. Free.

--dillon

You got a inconnel exhaust?

A4DRIVR
04-20-2010, 12:59 PM
You can buy them individualy...

http://www.ipg-supertech.com/cart.php?target=category&category_id=626

Sales@RAI
04-20-2010, 03:14 PM
I got some supertech single keeper exhausts if you need them.

SpeedWorksAuto
04-20-2010, 03:47 PM
I got some supertech single keeper exhausts if you need them.

I am running the triple grove ones, but how much you want for them?

Lou_B5
04-20-2010, 08:59 PM
Single moe betta. Do it.

michael66899
04-22-2010, 05:08 PM
Damn man that sucks, I really wonder what happened. Did it somehow have some oil starvation causing the lifter to freeze up in there? Good luck man I can't wait to see this thing all finished up.

SpeedWorksAuto
04-30-2010, 08:42 PM
SO, the news is......my head is warped ~.020". Good news is I will have a freshly built head by the beginning of the week to break again by the weekend since apparently I got money to blow.[headbang]

I have a few changes that I want to try, including another turbo. Gonna be pretty hectic getting all of this together for the weekend. I really want to see what the fuss is about this turbo on other car forums I've wandered into. [evilsmile]

allessence
05-01-2010, 03:04 PM
[QUOTE=SpeedWorksAuto;5163733]Adaptation I think has to do with the computer compensating in the fuel trims. You can see your adaptaions via vagcom. I also think when you are logging in Maestro you are watching the adpataions. Its how much the ecm is adding or removing to bring the fueling in spec. I think.....[quote/]

Yes you are correct. Adaption is the process of the computer actually learning what it is supposed to do for fueling for a given throttle position/load.

It's a nice feature to have since it will help build maps vs doing it all by hand. Problem is it only does safe maps. In other words for full on power/trim you will still have to adjust the fuel/boost/timing map if you are looking for the max power.

But again a good starting point. And if you drive like your hairs on fire all the time it will learn that as well. :)

Sales@RAI
05-02-2010, 06:29 PM
precision 5857?

SpeedWorksAuto
05-03-2010, 05:33 PM
no sir....Its a Holset.

Sales@RAI
05-03-2010, 05:40 PM
Please say its an HX40 7 blade

SpeedWorksAuto
05-03-2010, 06:58 PM
nope....HE351ve

SpeedWorksAuto
05-04-2010, 05:23 PM
I got a few more pieces of my puzzle in today:

About 20ft. of 2 gauge read, and black battery cable. Relocating to the trunk.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/DSCN0275.jpg

A cooler for the oil:

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/DSCN0274.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-04-2010, 05:28 PM
And........my turbo [drive]

Holset HE351VGT

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/DSCN0266-1.jpg

7 blade compressor
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/DSCN0267.jpg

Vbanded center section
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/DSCN0270.jpg

Extro huge turbone housing for the VGT
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/DSCN0272.jpg

Vbanded outlet
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/DSCN0273.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-04-2010, 05:31 PM
Wheel measurements
Turbine
EX 2.357
IND 2.755

Compressor
EX 3.38
IND 2.37
Compressor is as close as I can measure since its a 7 bladed wheel. Measurements similar to the large 6bladed HX40.

SpeedWorksAuto
05-04-2010, 05:43 PM
and a vid of a DSM on the dyno......listen to the VGT open up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgGe1BOZl0I

and a VGT mechanisim.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9bi3hTaFUA&feature=related

eastwick897
05-04-2010, 06:05 PM
That thing sounds nuts lol

dwi_gti
05-05-2010, 06:41 AM
you are going to use a Trans oil cooler for engine oil cooler??

SpeedWorksAuto
05-05-2010, 04:00 PM
whats the difference? a cooler is a cooler.

Sales@RAI
05-05-2010, 06:16 PM
cool. I've been doing research on this thing forever. There is a company that makes an adapter from T3 to whatever the Holset flange is.

You going to weld on an actuator to control the VGT?

That thing is still pretty big, I would expect boost to come in the mid to late 4s, but should make some awesome power

SpeedWorksAuto
05-05-2010, 10:06 PM
If boost comes in in the mid to late 4k range, imma drive this bitch of a cliff. The whole reason for this build is to make a decent horsepower car with a realy broad power band.

This is a bit of information I have found off one of the other forums I have been reading on........

"Yes it is a 2.4l. 8-8.3:1 compression.

Here were my initial spool results with the VGT rack fully closed and fixed there. This is just the first log I opened.
Here are the the most important things affecting spool

I can't remember what gear for sure but I think its 4th.

8" of 3" pipe for an exhaust
No intercooler
E85
8-8.3:1 compression
stock head, cams, intake manifold
Fairly low timing
1800 1psi
2000rpm 3psi
2500 8psi
2600 10 psi


Its a little slower now, the actuator starts to open the thing up a little sooner than I'd like.

Keep in mind this thing has a compressor in the GT35R size class."

SpeedWorksAuto
05-05-2010, 10:15 PM
And that is WTF I am talking about right there folks. We have pretty similar diplacement, but what I feel I lack in displacement I gain in compression ratio. I dont know how much the other parts play in his setup, but in a few other palces, I have seen peopl reporting about the same amount of boost before 3000rpms.

Like I said before I dont want to have to rev the piss outta my car to make decent power, hence I built it as big as I could with my current block. I think Imma stay with the stock cams for a while since all the cam setups I have seen seem to shift everything too far to the right to justify them for my build. SO, if all goes well, this turbo will be the answer, and I will make decnt power from early 3k til redline of about 7500rpms without stressing the crap out of my motor. I anm only shooting for mid 400whp....RELIABLY, so I am taking all the precautions to make sure I keep all my components operating under as little stress as possible. I am hoping my motor can handle well over 500whp, and I have seen dynos of people making over 600whp with this turbo.

Proly rambling now...so moving on

SpeedWorksAuto
05-05-2010, 10:20 PM
After my motor is back together, I think I am going to swing for a new Intake mani, a 70-75mm throttle body, and some new injectors. Maybe a water meth kit, but I wont jump on that right away since I am not even sure I will need one yet. I will just wait until I get some logs under my belt, and try to get this thing tuned properyl first.

SpeedWorksAuto
05-05-2010, 10:26 PM
cool. I've been doing research on this thing forever. There is a company that makes an adapter from T3 to whatever the Holset flange is.

You going to weld on an actuator to control the VGT?

That thing is still pretty big, I would expect boost to come in the mid to late 4s, but should make some awesome power

I am going to try to weld the current hole pattern closed, mill the flange, and redrill for T3 flange. I saw a few Diesel guys do it when they swapped to this turbo. But, to tell you the truth I am not even sure I have enough room for it yet. I kust kinda jumped in and am hoping for the best reagarding fitment. I do know I am going to have to fab up some sort of turbo brace since this thing weighs so much.

I am going to cotrol the VGT via a WG actuator.

mcaanda
05-06-2010, 04:36 AM
whats the difference? a cooler is a cooler.

With some of the transmission coolers, there are thermal bypass valves installed that allow for cooler temps to bypass before they are pushed into the cooler themselves. I know when I put the B&M on the rig before I headed East w/ the car and trailer this was something that I spent a bit of time looking into. This would allow for oil temps to get to operating levels which is beneficial, then push into the cooler when things start to get warm.

Might want to make sure that you can run motor oil through the trans cooler, as it could be designed for trans oil viscosity which "may - not sure here " be different enough that it could potentially cause issues.

Better safe and informed than broke because of a 2nd rebuild.

BTW - that turbo is nuts...

SpeedWorksAuto
05-06-2010, 04:52 AM
My adapter at the block has a thermal limiter that is Supposed to not flow t the cooler until a certain temp to keep the oil at the optimal temp, and the cooler I got was listed as a fluid cooler from summit. They said it could be udes for oil, power steering or tranny oil.

mcaanda
05-06-2010, 04:55 AM
And there ya are - good deal. I know I've been pretty happy w/ the stuff I've ordered from Summit in the past.

How hard did the shop you got the wire from lean on the checkbook - as we discussed earlier when I did it in the GT, it was pretty hard.

SpeedWorksAuto
05-06-2010, 06:17 PM
40 feet total 2 gauge wire was ~85.oo shipped.

mcaanda
05-07-2010, 03:30 AM
40 feet total 2 gauge wire was ~85.oo shipped.

Not bad, not bad at all. E-mail me the link to where you found that - Im going to need it later.

SpeedWorksAuto
05-26-2010, 10:38 PM
I am still at it..................

I got to play with some of the toys I make the parts for:

1/2" mild steel

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00381.jpg

A lil' plug for the company
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00382.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00383.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00384.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00385.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00386.jpg

All this for a T6 flange[headbang]
thats what I get for pulling up some random dimensions on the internet, programming the part, and running them in a hurry

SpeedWorksAuto
05-26-2010, 10:40 PM
back in the garage........

cleaning up the firewall
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/img034.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00389.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-26-2010, 10:44 PM
Assembling the motor. New block, repolished crank, rechecked balance, new rings, new main bearings, new .001 over coated rod bearings.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00388.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00387.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00395.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-26-2010, 10:46 PM
I thought I was running 82.5 mm pistons. Only found out when I ordered new rings in that I am actually 83mm. Luckily for me my machinist was dead nutz with the bores, so my stock headgasket fits my 83mm bores flawlessly with my new block.....again [wrench]

SpeedWorksAuto
05-26-2010, 10:49 PM
Some head to go on that long stroke:

Yet another fresh built AEB. This time I had them assemble too.
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00390.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00391.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00392.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-26-2010, 10:50 PM
And after the worst part, mating the motor to the tranny.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00394.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00396.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-26-2010, 10:53 PM
Tomorrow I should have a new T3 flange cut out so I can make an adapter to go from my ATP mani to the WGMT flange on the new turbo. I already have the flange for the turbo.

geeky
05-27-2010, 12:55 AM
Holy crap?! how'd I miss this, especially when Im so close to you. I'm in the factoria area, in bellevue. If you need a hand with wrenching, give me a call. This is exactly what Im currently saving money up for. 2.1l stroker build

PM me if you ever need any help.

SpeedWorksAuto
05-27-2010, 07:46 AM
Holy crap?! how'd I miss this, especially when Im so close to you. I'm in the factoria area, in bellevue. If you need a hand with wrenching, give me a call. This is exactly what Im currently saving money up for. 2.1l stroker build

PM me if you ever need any help.

You are like 5 minutes away. I am in Renton right off of Sunset, maybe two blocks from Coulon beach.

geeky
05-27-2010, 11:42 AM
haha damn. Im right down the hill from where Eastside Catholic use to be, before they move to the plateau. But like I said, if you ever need help with anything, shoot me a PM. Im home from school for the summer and all I do is be a fat piece of lazy :)

Storx
05-27-2010, 03:45 PM
Just finished a similar build over here in South Korea... with the HE351ve turbo.. its an amazing turbo.. it really loves top end.... it just didnt want to stop spooling.. the wastegate sounded like it was on steroids from all the blow-off...

83mm 10:1 JE
159mm Rosten
95.5mm BEW
AEB cylinder head Stock AMU head internals...
HE351VE
1200cc
Unitronic

we went with the shorter pistons to have less rotation mass.. small secret for revving the engine out...but ya we control the HE351ve via an Throttlebody Servo using MAP voltage with an reference voltage to make it VGT WOT for cruising...if you look at the graph you can see the transitions in the VGT in the curve... the drop in power in the top was from lean condition.. we are having fuel pump issues right now.. were loosing pressure in the top..with a surge tank and 2 inline walboros


http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/5471/21tt.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-27-2010, 05:32 PM
Just finished a similar build over here in South Korea... with the HE351ve turbo.. its an amazing turbo.. it really loves top end.... it just didnt want to stop spooling.. the wastegate sounded like it was on steroids from all the blow-off...

83mm 10:1 JE
159mm Rosten
95.5mm BEW
AEB cylinder head Stock AMU head internals...
HE351VE
1200cc
Unitronic

we went with the shorter pistons to have less rotation mass.. small secret for revving the engine out...but ya we control the HE351ve via an Throttlebody Servo using MAP voltage with an reference voltage to make it VGT WOT for cruising...if you look at the graph you can see the transitions in the VGT in the curve... the drop in power in the top was from lean condition.. we are having fuel pump issues right now.. were loosing pressure in the top..with a surge tank and 2 inline walboros


http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/5471/21tt.jpg


more info on how you controlled the VGT electronically please!!

Storx
05-27-2010, 06:40 PM
just be patient.. we are trying a new setup.. that uses a wastegate and an A/C Vacuum actuator..
the setup above was using an spring loaded throttle cable linked to the VGT arm.. keeping it closed under spring power... then the servo motor pulls the VGT open with MAP voltage.. but we are having some issues that are making us want to try new ideas...
1) When cruising the servo motor is getting extremely hot from having to keep the VGT open on offboost.. aswell the map sensor has a high sample rate.. so voltage drop to 0 instantaniously and this causes the motor to slightly close the VGT hundreds of times over a few minutes.. but it never fully closes.. just flutters like 1/10 of the way.... this is why we are going to try an wastegate/vacuum actuator method.. for reliability...
2) we found that the turbo flows enough with the VGT 100% to keep climbing in power tell around 400whp.. before flatting out.. and the map sensor was making the VGT start open to early... so we had to adjust the voltage with an resistor.. so it wouldnt start opening tell later in the boost curve.. but ran out of voltage to make it fully open.. so this dyno graph is with the VGT at maybe only 80% open in the top...
the torque down low with it closed is similar to an k03s/k04 setup.. just to give you an idea.. its really strong down low.. but we had issues with clutchs with the low end torque so we had to install an FX750 twin... just to hold it..
Spool-up goes like this:

10 psi @ 3400 RPM
20 psi @ 3900 RPM
30 psi @ 4500 RPM

SpeedWorksAuto
05-27-2010, 07:41 PM
I was thinking something opening and closing the vanes that is load base, like vacuum and boost. When in cruise/vacuum I want the VGT open as to reduce backpressure, egt's and increase mpg. Then as vacuum decreases, I want the mechanism to close to get the turbo spooling faster.

I am initially going to go with a wastegate actuator until I figure out a more elegant way to control it all. It should move hold it at a closed position or wherever I set it, and then slowly open it up as I reach say 10psi, and sloly open until fully open soon after. Should also keep the turbo spoolin pretty hard and make it really responsive feeling.

Now that I think about I read your thread over on the Vortex. I didt think you actually got the thing up and going since your thread just kinda died. You actually had me second guessing when I saw your pictures of how huge the turbine housing is and you saying you wer going to have to trim to get it to fit.

Post up some pics of how you got it for sure.

SpeedWorksAuto
05-27-2010, 09:48 PM
And after all the hard work of bending fuel lines, enlarging holes to run the wrirng through, sorting the harness, here is the motor wired up except for the coil packs.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00398.jpg

and here is where I plan to stash the cooalant res.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/SNC00399.jpg

Lou_B5
05-28-2010, 07:17 AM
SICK!

SpeedWorksAuto
05-29-2010, 09:28 PM
Made up the adapter today.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00401.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00402.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-29-2010, 09:28 PM
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00403.jpg
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00404.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-29-2010, 09:29 PM
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00405.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-29-2010, 09:31 PM
Compresor housing right:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00407.jpg

Compresor housing left:
http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00408.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-29-2010, 09:34 PM
And the kicker:

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00410.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00412.jpg

Going to have to get really creative with the downpipe

A4DRIVR
05-29-2010, 09:59 PM
I think I might remake the adapter to include a bit of an angle to it... pointing the exhaust outlet more toward the center of the car.

SpeedWorksAuto
05-29-2010, 10:59 PM
i placed the turbo in there just to see what it would be like without the adapter and it didnt make much of a difference. The studs on both flanges will need to be shortened and then adapter cut down the middle, material removed and then rewelded. In the end its still goin to be close to the strut tower. The turbo is just really long.

Storx
05-30-2010, 02:59 PM
im not sure how you feel about your manifold.. but we just welded the turbine housing directly to the manifold so we wouldnt have any issues with the weight making leaks.. cause if you read diesel forums.. and the stock truck has issues with the weight making leaks.. aswell some of the people who have put these on there older model cummins engines.... just take it to a good welder so he can get some good penetration.. the housing is just steel.. not nickle steel or cast iron like most garretts... i wish i could just show you what i mean but the dang pictures are all stuck on my buddys camera.. which doesnt want to connect to any PC we try to plug it into Grrrr.. but what we did was pickup one of those $90 dollar cast ATP closes and since people have issues with the threads cracking on them or coming out.. we just shaved it to the angle we wanted.. and just welded the housing directly to it.. also that large flat lump you see on the turbo.. you can shave that down by alot it just there because on the engine it came off of.. it rest against the motor there to help with the weight.... the housing on these turbos are nearly 1/2 inch thick on the walls..just look at it from the inside and you will see what i mean.. we also shaved the large water port and retapped it.. so we didnt have as much weight.... we took almost 2pds off the turbo..

SpeedWorksAuto
05-30-2010, 10:42 PM
I fixed it!

I took the adapter back up to my bud's house and just starting hacking at it until I felt the angle was going to work, welded the crap out of it, drove back to my garage, test fitted, and NUTZ ON DA MONEY!!

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00413.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00414.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-30-2010, 10:43 PM
I have about 1/8" clearance at the strut tower from the turbine, and I have about the same clearance from the valve cover. Needles to say somethings getting ceramic coated or wrapped since I think this will cause valver cover gasket issues.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00415.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/SpeedWorksAutoTuning/stroker%20build/SNC00414.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-30-2010, 10:55 PM
Now I might actually have a chance at clearing my headlights, running a filter, and not doing somethink funky to get to the intercooler.

SpeedWorksAuto
05-30-2010, 11:10 PM
im not sure how you feel about your manifold.. but we just welded the turbine housing directly to the manifold so we wouldnt have any issues with the weight making leaks.. cause if you read diesel forums.. and the stock truck has issues with the weight making leaks.. aswell some of the people who have put these on there older model cummins engines.... just take it to a good welder so he can get some good penetration.. the housing is just steel.. not nickle steel or cast iron like most garretts... i wish i could just show you what i mean but the dang pictures are all stuck on my buddys camera.. which doesnt want to connect to any PC we try to plug it into Grrrr.. but what we did was pickup one of those $90 dollar cast ATP closes and since people have issues with the threads cracking on them or coming out.. we just shaved it to the angle we wanted.. and just welded the housing directly to it.. also that large flat lump you see on the turbo.. you can shave that down by alot it just there because on the engine it came off of.. it rest against the motor there to help with the weight.... the housing on these turbos are nearly 1/2 inch thick on the walls..just look at it from the inside and you will see what i mean.. we also shaved the large water port and retapped it.. so we didnt have as much weight.... we took almost 2pds off the turbo..

That would have been fine if the only issue was the rear clearance. The compressor housing also posed problems with it being placed so close to the front of the car. I needed it clocked this way, and welding it to the manifold wasnt going to push it out far enough for me.

Storx
05-31-2010, 09:49 AM
That would have been fine if the only issue was the rear clearance. The compressor housing also posed problems with it being placed so close to the front of the car. I needed it clocked this way, and welding it to the manifold wasnt going to push it out far enough for me.

good job man,

Just you have issues with the fittings now.. they are not normal fittings.. so just fyi... also shave that beast down to get rid of some of that weight.. also get rid of that downturn adapter.. it goes from 3 inch to 4 inch.. which makes issues if not running 4 inch exhuast.. just cut it and use the top were it connects to turbo for new downpipe.. its just steel.. so saw will cut it no problem :)\.
oil feed m12x1.5
oil drain flange bolts- two m8x1.25
Coolant in an out- m16x1.5

Storx
05-31-2010, 09:52 AM
those wires coming out of the top in your picture.. is the shaft rpm sensor.. if you take that out.. and put on ebay it should sell i sold mine for $99 cause at the time there was 3 listed for 100.00 so i posted 1 dollar cheaper for buy now.. and sold within few days..that sensor new from holset is $244.95

Storx
05-31-2010, 09:54 AM
also so your not cluttering up what little space you have left.. just run throttle cable with small bracket and spring attached to the arm making it spring loaded closed.. and mount the wastegate in more friendlier area with the throttle wire adjusted to work..

SpeedWorksAuto
05-31-2010, 12:12 PM
There was a guy on ebay selling a oil return flange, gasket, and a oil feed line and I bought all of it when I bought the turbo. That was easy.

I wanted to use as much of the cast elbow as possible. I went to my local muffler shop and had a piece of 3" tubing expanded to somewhat fit into the end of it. I will however cut it about where it looks like there was another factory v-band connection. Hopefully I will get that welded up today along with matching up my wastegate so it isnt a creamer anymore.

SpeedWorksAuto
05-31-2010, 12:14 PM
I cant run a throttle cable to the turbo and do like the diesel guys do since my car is DBW. Well, maybe if a hooked a cable to the accelerator.

Storx
05-31-2010, 05:23 PM
I cant run a throttle cable to the turbo and do like the diesel guys do since my car is DBW. Well, maybe if a hooked a cable to the accelerator.

no no silly, your not controlling the turbo with throttle cable from your car.. you have one end of cable hooked up to the turbo VGT arm with spring holding it closed.. so if you open it.. the spring would make it close again... then you mount the other end of the cable somewere in the engine bay where you have room and attached wastegate actuator to it... so when the wastegate goes to open.. it pulls on the throttle cable attached to the turbo to open the VGT....

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs535.ash1/31361_455639337574_564827574_6079707_6563049_n.jpg

SpeedWorksAuto
05-31-2010, 08:11 PM
Hmm...I guess I never thought about that. Wouldnt you need a pull type actuator for that to work, or maybe a lever since mine is a push type actuator.

Storx
06-01-2010, 12:55 AM
haha, no just mount the actuator so it pushs the wire to pull it open...
new update today... we were testing something on an Hyaundai that just installed an HE351ve into its 2.0L built engine.. and the guy figured out a new way to use it... when the connection to the throttle cable came off.... he relized while under boost the turbo preassure is able to open the VGT on its own.. to WOT.. while trying to get out of the turbine i guess.. anyways.. so we disconnected the throttle cable and while it was on the dyno so we could watch it under load.. just with an spring on it making the arm close... when the engine hit boost the VGT would slowly open while it built boost... closing between shifts to keep boost really well.. i was shocked on how effective it was.... we are going to make an new spring setup that uses an adjuster that would allow you to adjust spring preassure to adjust how easy it opens which would make it not open tell higher boost levels present to overcome the spring pressure.. im not sure how strong the arm can use tell it just can open it anymore.. but we are going to play around with the idea..

SpeedWorksAuto
06-01-2010, 11:46 AM
Ya, theres a you tube video of a guy using just the drive pressure and a spring to open and close the vanes. It was on a diesel, so I wasnt exactly sure how it would relate.

About how far closed do you guys run the vanes?

Storx
06-01-2010, 03:14 PM
our engines are so small you can run it at its smallest setting.. you have to remember this turbo is meant for 5.0L to 9.0L engines... plus at its lowest setting its nearly the same as the stock K03 in size...

Sales@RAI
06-01-2010, 08:09 PM
good stuff. Storx your power is just awesome.

Storx
06-01-2010, 11:15 PM
good stuff. Storx your power is just awesome.

haha.. if you think that is awesome powerband.. i have some tricks up my sleeve that im going to be trying soon when i get back to USA from korea in July to make that powerband even better.. it worked on a benchtest motor here in korea on an engine dyno.... not VW/Audi engine.. an DSM 2.0 motor... but hell it worked and should work on our engines aswell.. just might not be as nice of a curve.. but well see.. its uses the HE351ve.. but its an modification.. to make spoolup nicer and better downlow.. but i dont like giving details about mods i try tell i install them and actually see them work.... cause i am not going to tell someone to do something and it be a complete failure cause i or noone else has tried it... just dont want to be that guy... also... the koreans here in korea explained and helped me understand an another trick they use for spool up.. that would be very usefull on this size turbo aswell.. but should on be used sparingly as it cost money after a while using it.. but i will give more details later when its all in the car and running..

SpeedWorksAuto
06-02-2010, 08:19 AM
anti lag?

SpeedWorksAuto
06-02-2010, 08:23 AM
I went to the local European wrecker yesterday to pick up some parts. Saw a turbo on the shelf and asked the guy what that tiny thing was running....a small generator, turbo lawnmower, dirtbike? "nah, thats a Ko3..."