B6 A4 Ultimate Performance Noob Writeup/FAQ. Read first!
So you got a B6 A4 (2002-2005.5), NICE! However, everyone else has an A4 and lots of them are faster and nicer then yours so before you ask dumb questions, read everything on here. If your looking for cosmetic mods, check out a4mods.com to see what you like best instead of asking which one is
Lets start out with factory options. Sport suspension has red shocks. To see them, look behind your wheels with a flashlight. If you have the cold weather package, good for you. Now onto the important stuff. Tiptronic basically sucks, its not “both”. You have a clutch or you don’t, I hate when people try to say they have both. If you have stick, awesome. Some people like 5 speed some people like 6. They are both fast. As for motors, if you have the 3.0 some people like it. Basically all you have is an intake, exhaust, short shifter, and chip. The chip is not going to do as much as a 1.8T chip but still helps. 3.0 Chip Thread There is a supercharger (www.pes-tuning.com).. If you have the money go 4 it!
Im going to focus on the 1.8T here because most of us have that. Here are pretty much all your mods that you can do…
1. Intake – Ok so many cars can gain power from intakes but we cant… The only one that people like is the Carbonio but is it worth the $300? It has been proven to show increases and some think it is but its all preference. I heard the boostedtech one sounds nasty as well. So, most of them are for noise while the Carbonio offers small gains but for a big price
2. Exhaust – Because our cars are turbo, freeing up room for the turbo helps bring out lots of power, so an exhaust is important. There are many companies (Milltek, APR, Thermal, Neuspeed, Magnaflow are the most popular). Some like it louder, and some like it softer…. Make sure you get a good diameter depending on how much power your going to be putting out. 2.5” to twin 2.25” is a good setup.
3. Test Pipe – As I mentioned before, freeing up room for the turbo is essential. A test pipe (TP) replaces the catalytic converter (cat) and makes for a quicker spool, more power, and MORE NOISE! Its an awesome mod but many stay away because it may be illegal in your state and the fines could be huge. Check if your state runs emissions tests on inspection
4. Chip – A chip is probably the best bang for your buck and the most favored by most 1.8T owners. It remaps the feul and boost to push more hp on your car. The main companies are GIAC, APR, and REVO. Many choose based on which dealer is closest. All of them have upgrades for K04 and BT applications but prices vary. However… now there is a new form of “chipping” called “flashing”. Basically instead of putting an actual chip, the whole ECU gets deleted and a new file is put on for your application.
5. Injectors – One of the most popular applications for B6 guys is the BI (Big Injector) file. Basically it uses the stock turbo with injectors for a little extra hp. For GIAC, the FX-K03 file as they call it can use the Siemens 380cc injectors. The OEM Bosch Audi TT225 injectors, with a flow of 386cc (not the Bosch 380cc injectors), are required for the Revo and APR files and work great on the GIAC BI file as well. The upgrade for this from a simple flash may be free or a small fee. Injectors can be a DIY if you have some car knowledge.
6. Turbo Intake Pipe (TIP) – The OEM turbo intake pipe or hose can be faulty and collapse under added pressure. A new TIP is a popular mod to make sure the collapsing never happens. APR is the most stout but is only available for the K03 and K04. The Neuspeed is 2nd on the list. It is less stout but still very good and can work for the K03/K04 and the GTRS applications.
7. Boost Gauge – A boost gauge monitors boost from the turbo and is VERY recommended to make sure everything is running smoothly. AWE makes a nice one, as well as MC Hammered’s pod. SPP also makes one that is very pricey but nice. There are plans for a new pillar pod soon.
8. MBC/EBC – A manual boost controller or electronic boost controller is used to limit the boost that is put out by the turbo… EBCs are better but cost more and there are some MBCs that are better than others
9. N75Valve – This controls the smoothness of the boost essentially. Many people throw in an N75J or N75H valve to increase performance (which it does) but it makes the boost come in very harshly and can possibly put your car into limp mode (when your ECU restricts boost because it knows something is wrong)
10. Diverter Valve – A diverter valve is required for all chip and turbo applications that run more boost. It holds the extra pressure better. Forge 007, Hyperboost, and other DVs are good. The blow off valve (BOV) is asked about but don’t do it. It is not designed for our motors and they can mess things up. Yes some run them but they don’t help our cars in any way and a DV with an intake will make the same effect without harming the engine.
11. Short Shifter – Some consider this an Interior mod some consider it an engine mod. Basically it shortens shifts so there is less time in between. Neuspeed and AMS are pretty much the best. This mod goes great with #7.
12. Snub Mount – The APR snub mount gets rid of the shifter/drivetrain clunking when hard shifting occurs. Its cheap and an easy DIY for us, go for it!
13. Clutch – When going past a simple chipped setup, with the added hard driving a clutch may be needed. It allows for better launches and better grab between shifts. ECS tuning sells a decent clutch but Southbend clutches are the best. The OFE SS is the top dog while the HD is a step lower. Make sure you get a new OEM dual mass flywheel when you get the clutch. Everything should be around $1100 without install
14. Intercooler (FMIC or DSMIC) – An intercooler is an effective and sometimes essential (for K04 or bigger) way to cool down IATs (Intake air temps) from the turbo so more power can be made. The FMIC (front mount intercooler) is the most effective and is placed in the front bumper. Evolution Racewerks is the best, Racetek and OCT are also nice pieces. The Ecode is OK but not amazing. Also there is the choice of a DSMIC (dual side mount intercooler). For this, another side mounted intercooler is placed in the engine. This is an effective and stealth way, but less popular.
15. Exhaust Manifold – A turbo manifold will open up your exhaust ports, allowing for more flow for the turbo. ATP makes a crappy one that most people use. APR has an awesome one on their Stage 3+, and there are some other ones that I cant think of. It is not required with the Eliminator kits but recommended. Most just bite their lip and get the ATP.
16. Intake Manifold – Our stock ones are sweet, don’t worry about it, the Dahlback one is garbage.
17. Turbo – So now you have your FMIC, clutch, injectors, and your ready for the new turbo and software to go with it. NICE! You have 2 choices. A K04 is the first one. It is an Audi OEM turbo that has different internals to allow for more hp. It makes less then BT but spools quicker and has lots of low end torque. Many people like it who want something fun as a daily driver but there are many who require more. Your 3 basic BT (big turbo) setups are the GTRS/GT71R, the APR Stage 3+, and the GIAC GT28R kit. The GIAC kit is very smooth and nicely tuned but since they are not running the GT28R, so many choose to not go with this kit. The APR and REVO (GTRS) are both capable of major hp. The APR is the better kit in every way but the $5200 price tag is too much for many. The tuning is flawless and once on the car, it never has to be tweaked. The REVO kit is the one that has made the most hp so far but with modifying timing and boost. If you are knowledgeable about mechanics and want to mess with your engine to make the most hp, get the GTRS. Many also get the GTRS and just change the boost, which is safer.
18. Water/Meth Injection - Ok so the new big thing on here is water/meth injection. Basically it allows for a water/meth mixture to be shot into the intake manifold to lower temps and allow for more timing (such as running a race file on pump gas). The DevilsOwn and SnowPerformance kits are great. It is AWESOME but the effects could be dangerous if correction factors get too high. Check out Timing 101 near the bottom if you have no idea what Im saying
19. VAG-COM - This could be one of the most important things you get for your B6 as you start to mod. VAG-COM is a software made by Ross-Tech (www.ross-tech.com) that can Erase/Read CELs, Get rid of the seat belt chime, enable remote windows up/down, and most importantly, LOG! With VagCom you can log IATs, knock, CFs, RPMs, Engine Temp, blah blah... Here is the website to see more features B6 VAG-COM... Its about $220 from them for the full licensed verison or you can get an Ebay cable and get the lesser version for $100 for that cable
20. Suspension - Suspension is just as important as power. Being able to control your car is essential and coilovers or shock/spring combos allow for this... There is much controversy over which ones are the best. Stasis products are great. Their tracksports and motorsports are well known. The Bilstein PSS9s are also highly recommended. H&R is good quality but does not work well with our cars. For us cheaper individuals the Tein Basics/SSs, Eibach Pro-Kit coils, Koni Coils, and Stasis Streetsports get the job done! As for shocks and springs, I dont know which setups are the best. I think Bilstein/H&R is nice.
21. Sway Bars - B6 and B7 S4 (20mm) and B7 RS4 (22mm) rear sway bars bolt on, cost under $200 even at dealer list and go a long way toward reducing understeer on both stock and sport equipped cars. You only need the bar and bushings to convert, not the links, bolts, or brackets, which can be reused.
22. Brakes - The simplest upgrade is an A8/3.0 312x25 rotor with TT/3.0 caliper brackets. If you do it right, you might not even need to bleed them. It also allows upgrades to Porsche Boxster four piston brembo calipers (with special brackets from ecstuning or bira.org) in the future. This fits with almost all wheels, even 16's.
B5, B6, and B7 S4 front brakes bolt on to our cars and offer huge "bang for the buck" braking improvement. B5 S4 brakes can usually be found used for $200-$300 and use a 321x30 (vs. 288mm stock) rotor with a special 4 pad, 2 piston caliper (aka "HP2") These calipers are very large and do not fit behind certain wheels (especially dished ones.)
B6 and B7 S4 brakes use a larger single piston caliper with a 345x30 rotor. Most regard this as better than B5S4 brakes. Used setups can be found for $500 to $700. These calipers fit behind a wider range of wheels, but only fit certain 17's because of the huge diameter of the rotors. When converting, you need rotors, calipers, and carriers.
B7 A4 brakes are a hybrid, using the B5S4 rotors, with B6/B7S4 calipers. They can be converted to full B6/B7 S4 spec by changing carrier brackets and rotors.
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Stage 1 = chip
Stage 1+ = chip+ any other mods without a turbo upgrade
Stage 2 = K04
Stage 2+ = K04 with other mods
Stage 3 = BT at 270-350 chp
Stage 3+ = BT at 350-400 chp
Stage 4 = internal/head work making 400-500 chp
Stage 5 = Stand alone or making 500+ chp
CHP = Crank Horsepower
WHP = Wheel HP (usually AWHP for us)
Also many of you wonder what "Timing" is so heres a writeup on that Timing 101
OK guys basically if you want to add anything or take anything out let me know... I vote to make this sticky! I thought we could also put launching techniques in here instead of noobs making 100000 threads about it... Let me know how you like it
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haha o yeah and with less boost 
and lots of money left over for the strippers
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