The Grocery Getter: B8.5 Allroad Build - Bagged and Tuned

[slow_poke25mph]

BLUF:

2013 Audi Allroad - Premium+

INTERIOR

• BFI Shift Knob
• ECS Tuning Boost Guage
• Full Dynamated Truck
• WeatherTech Floor Mats: Black, Front and Rear
• DIY Red Engine Start/Stop Button

EXTERIOR

• NGP Rear Bumper Cover
• Ebay Deal Front Splitter
• JDM Performance Bumper Quick Release
• Blacked-out OEM Grill
• Custom Slotted Fog Light Vents
• Rear Wiper Delete
• Whispbar Roof Rack
• Grocery Getter Cart Roof Basket
• Carbon Fiber Mirror Covers
• DIY Aluminum Front Canards

PERFORMANCE

• APR Stage 2 Tune
• R8 Coil Packs
• CTS Turbo Catch Can w/ Africa Plate
• ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber Intake
• ECS Tuning FMIC
• Full ECS Tuning Intercooler Piping
• Go Fast Bits DV+
• ECS Tuning Turbo Muffler Delete
• CTS Turbo Test Pipe
• CTS Turbo Downpipe
• ECS Tuning Dipstick
• DEI Gold Heat Shield Trans tunnel and Turbo Wall
• A5 Brake Carrier Upgrade w/ Vented and Slotted Rotors
• EBC Green Stuff Pads
• Stop Tech steel-braided brake lines

SUSPENSION & WHEELS

• Airlift 3P (Hidden in Spare Tire Well)
• Custom Hard-Line setup w/ LEDs
• Switchspeed 2.5 Gallon Spun Seamless Tank
• Dual VIAIR 444 Compressors
• Vossen 20x10.5 ET35
• Powerflex Black Series Control Arm Bushings

Let me take a long story and make it longer. But don't worry, photos (mostly with the potato phone) and goodies to come.

From 2011-2014 I lived in Belgium, where a French co-worker of mine purchased a brand new diesel Allroad. It was everything my Mk6 GTI (static and low AF, pretty much a horrid daily. But YO, BRO! I was cool and hip... right?) wasn't. The AR was refined AND it had all the space to carry goodies, lumber, and stuff. I figured I needed one in my life. As luck would have it, after returning to the states, I found a 2013 Premium+ for sale at a decent price, with 36k miles. Boom, I've got a wagon (who doesn't love wagons? If you're reading this, you probably love wagons too).

Here she is, fresh from the dealer and getting a wash. I've got my 8 year old who's "trying to help."



First thing I needed was to lower it from the original monster truck status. Yes, Yes, it's meant to be a monster truck, but that's not what I bought it for. I did the standard internet search and ordered a set of H&R lowering springs. At the same time, I found a set of Vossen Wheels on VWVortex (20x10.5 et35 / wrapped in 275 x 30 tires).



Here she is on the H&R Springs



Problem was, this still wasn't low enough. Even with the Vossen 20's the fender-to-wheel gap was still atrocious. But after rolling for 2 years in the static MK6 GTI, where every bump was a major obstacle to roll over sideways, I wasn't going down the static road again. This time I was going bagged....





I'm sure many of you have noticed, the OEM pads and some brake-dust creating monsters. Its like the dandruff of Audi. While I was hunting for a new brake pad, I found the A5 Upgrade kit from ECS. The kit came with the larger vented and slotted rotors, along with the larger pad carriers off the A5. I combined that with a set of EBC Green Stuff pads and went to town. Then I found out I needed a VAGCOM to release the rear brakes (STUPID A** BS). Trading beer for a VAGCOM use, I got that bit a a**-pain worked out.



Here's the trunk set-up. It's all hidden inside the spare tire well. The set-up needs to be cleaned up with a false-floor built to hide the subwoofer and the dynamat. That's the next project. And yes, I love the sticker bomb look, but it doesn't go well with the Audi, so I hid it.





Soon after I got her all put back together, a head-phone wearing teenager backed out of her parking spot and smashed the bumper...



Her insurance paid to have it fixed, which included a fixed bumper, new headlight, and a new fog light vent grill. But, the repair shop was garbage when it came to repairing the bumper and they tore the bumper where it affixes to the wheel arch, specifically the portion that is squeezed together to keep the fender flush (yes, I know, this is a crappy description). I complained about this and the only way to fix it is order a new bumper. Instead, I took the money for the bumper and bought other parts. This is also why I have the JDM Fresh Quick Bumper Releases (JDM Fresh because the local owner loves the AR and hooked me up with these if I rocked his sticker).



While the car was being fixed, I decided to cut out the fins of the fog light vent covers. I find it a much better look, especially with the upgraded FMIC. (I can give a DIY if you want to do this too)



Over the coming months came a host of other modifications.

Like this ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber intake (which I think looks and works awesome... better than the APR system I had on the MK6 at 1/2 the cost)



The wife purchased me a DSG Shift Knob from Black Forest Industries. I dig the look as the huge-a** OEM T-handle took up too much space.




Also added an ECS Boost Gauge because TURBO that's why! Adding this to the vent was a huge pain in the ass. What was supposed to be a short 1-2 hour project ended up taking a week with the car down in the garage. First, I'm pretty sure Audi Designers decided to make the vents out of the most parts they could possible make a mechanism. They are like hand-made Swiss watches. If you've ever had one "explode" (yes that's what they do under pressure), then you know what its like trying to find the tiny metal connectors in the floor board of a black interior. OR, BETTER YET, one of those little metal pieces slides down the vent pipe and your have to fish it out blind with a magnet on a stick. Second, DO NOT BREAK the plastic connectors on the OEM vacuum hose that crosses over the intake manifold. If you do, you can't buy a connector.... you'll have to spend $140 ish on a whole new vacuum hose assembly (and you local Audi dealer won't have this in stock, so you'll have so special order it.) YO! but it look real sweet bro (facepalm).



About this same time I added a CTS Turbo Catch Can (great buy from the forum). Had one on the MK6 and does well keeping sludge from being recycled.



Working toward the Stage 2 tune, I purchased a Test Pipe and Downpipe from CTS Turbo. First off, the AR community here is correct the CTS DP DOES NOT FIT!! I repeat, IT DOES NOT FIT. It connects with the large collar (I'm sure there's a more official term for this) on the drive shaft. It is also too long. It's easy to cut down, so that's not a problem. CTS will deny that their DP won't fit. I went back and forth with them over email. But after having my car down in the garage and bumming rides for two weeks, I just beat a "recess" into the pipe and called it day. Utilizing a rubber mallet and a whole lot of pent up aggression can fix this problem. (I've misplaced the photos of this whole debacle, but if it's something you need, I'll crawl up under there and grab some photos).

I was surprised how rusted the OEM downpipe bolts were. All of them sheared off, forcing me to cut the OEM Downpipe apart to get it out of the car. Installing the test pipe was also a huge ass-pain. There's just no really good way to reach those bolts. I had to put together a conglomeration of extensions and elbows onto the ratchet and blindly hunt for those turbo bolts (There's awesome DIYs on the forum, they saved my butt). Plus, one of the bolts backed itself out and stripped. Uggghhh... when I replace the turbo, that stupid aluminum heat shield is getting the boot. I wrapped the Test pipe in Titanium wrapping.



Remember how I said one of the Turbo bolts backed out and stripped? Well I had to find a new one ASAP! Luckily (the best shop in the world, VAG-Haus, El Paso) had an old k03 they let me borrow some bolts from. While traveling with this old, broken and leaking turbo in my trunk, it slid around the back (yeah, I should have secured it better). Anyway, when I opened the hatch, the turbo jumped out and attacked me! While fending off the wild turbo, it decided to take a chunk out of my rear bumper and jack-up the paint. This is why I ordered a bumper cover from NGP. Seriously, if you haul stuff in your trunk, buy this thing for $100. It has been worth every penny. The fit and finish is outstanding.



More recently, I took apart the grill and painted it. The first time, I just plasti-dipped it on the car. This worked well, but didn't have the finish I wanted. The second time I took the grill out of the car and painted it.... Its been about 2 months and the El Paso sand has left it looking like crap. At this point, I'll probably just plasti-dip it again while its on the car.



You may be wondering where I got that epically sweet front splitter?! That's a $75 Ebay purchase. One of those JDM universal, make your civic look awesome splitters... except its the make your BMW look like an M version. To make it work, I just measured the length and depth of the front end, then hunted through the universal section of Ebay till I found something close. It took some minor cutting, but I got it all together. The splitter bars add some rigidity to the front, with the quattro sticker rounds out the look('Cause RACECAR!). (Yeah, I know, there's fancy Carbon Fiber ones, specifically made for the car. But, I'd rather spend $500-800 on other stuff). It works best as a Toddler seat. My 18-month old has decided that's his place to sit and watch me wrench.



Let's talk about those big-a** wheels. The 20x10.5 Vossens. Yes, they look great and they tuck very nicely when I'm aired out. It's even better when you're running 275/30's on there. Rubber-Band tires are awesome, unless it's your daily and every rock is jacking-up your wheels. No one likes curb-rashed wheels. When it came time to buy some new tires, I had the wheels stripped and powder-coated. I also moved up to a 275/35 tire, which has made a much smoother and less curb-damage prone ride. (If you've got Vossens and want to know how to remove the fake outer lip, shoot me a note. If you don't remove it, it will jack up your paint or powder coating). The new powder coat color is more of a gunmetal and matches the silver/grey of the AR well.



More recently, I ordered the Luft-Technik FMIC kit from ECS. I had been hunting a FMIC for a while, but also wanted the piping to go along with it. The combination is usually quite expensive and I had been saving my pennies to make it happen. Then ECS released this whole thing for a steal.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...02894ecs01kt1/

I was quite impressed with the finished product. Here's a quick note for AR owners who purchase this: The charge pipe that runs from the turbo to the FMIC (passenger side) comes into contact with a metal support brace for the front end. The pipe will fit just fine, but you'll end up with a rattle at certain RPMs. I ended up having the wife push the pipe away from the support while I adjusted and tightened the clamps. No more rattle. I also added some foam-backed tape to the upper side of the support to prevent any rubbing should it connect again.



Between the Turbo Muffler Delete, new charge pipes, and the CF intake. I get all the turbo PSSSSHHHHHH noise I need in my life.

Now we are to the present. I had a large roof-basket attached to my whispbars for the longest time (the one seen in the first photo). But I really didn't love how off-road big it looked. Plus, it seriously cut down on my mpg. I've always had a single Grocery Getter decal on the back glass, so it was time to finish off the look. It took me a couple of weeks, but eventually I found a grocery cart stranded out in the desert. I cut the cart in half and removed the middle portion, welding the top and bottom together. Then I painted it grey to match the AR cladding and wrapped the front bumpers and handle in gloss-black. To finish it off, I mounted it to the whispbars with some 4 inch stainless steel hose clamps.





I took the latest and greatest to Springfest 2017, where I won 3rd Place for Euros (fist pump). Yes, I added some paper grocery bags to the rack :)







Here we are... next step is either a K04 or possible CTS BOSS Turbo kit (if they ever actually release it). I also need to replace the upper control arms, as the bushings are worn. At some point, I'll bite the bullet and clean up the visuals for the air ride system for shows. Finally, I want to replace the OEM coolant overflow tank with something a little more visually pleasing.

[earhythmic]

Yes!

I've been debating cutting the fog surrounds like you did. Looks good. I'll take a DIY

[Gusman1]

Great looking AR and amazing build thread!

[AudiOx71]

Very original on the grocery cart. Surprisingly, I think that's pretty sexy and neat.....and obviously thinking outside the box.

[slow_poke25mph]

earhythmic. I've got an unmolested fog surround. I'll snap some photos and build a DIY tonight.

[piecez]

This AR is just awesome, great build

[ginger_snaps]

What's the basket in this picture?


This helpful information provided by GngrSnaps

[DeeBee87]

Great build! Link on that front eBay splitter please


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[KFizz]

Are there actually carbon fibre splitters specifically for this car?

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[jhoward]

That splitter is amazing! Love this car. Maybe not so much on the cart, but props for originality and the chuckle


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[slow_poke25mph]

[QUOTE=ginger_snaps;12384293]

What's the basket in this picture?


Ginger_snaps: Here's the Amazon link to the basket. If you're using whispbars, the basket will actually sit ON TOP of the black plastic end-clamps for the bars.
https://www.amazon.com/Rage-Powerspo...ds=roof+basket

[slow_poke25mph]

[QUOTE=DeeBee87;12384349]Great build! Link on that front eBay splitter please

DeeBee87: Here's a link to the splitter I purchased. Here's also a note - If you want the rear portion of the splitter to touch the edge of the fender and/or be flush with the short mud guard flap in front of the AR wheels, you will not need to purchase a set of splitter rods.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Un...JXAqI2&vxp=mtr

[slow_poke25mph]

B8/8.5 A4 and Allroad Fog Surround Vent DIY

I tried to post this in the DIY Forum, but I don't have enough cool points for access. If someone else has access and put it there, that will work. I've got an extra OEM fog surround, which I use as a demonstration piece. Here's a before and after shot and what you're working toward.



First thing you've got to do is pull those Fog Surrounds out of the Bumper. The easiest way I've found is to grab the fins and pull from the center of the car toward the outside edge (toward the fog light). The plastic bumper has a lot of flex to it, so you'll see it flex a bit as you pull. You're attempting to pull the two tabs from the leading edge out of the bumper. If you're still getting stuck. There are two tabs on the top and two on the bottom of the surround. You may need to push down on the fin to get these to release.



Once you've got them out, look at the back of the surround at the plastic in between the fins. You'll notice a slight lip where the Fin meets the "inside" of the plastic. You're going to cut out this inside. I've highlighted (poorly) where the little lip is. The lip is where you'll be aiming your cutting tool.



For the cutting, I just used my old dremel with a THIN cutting disc. I found that low speed setting was easier as it did not melt the plastic as much. Ensure you put on some eye protection this point to guard against melted plastic projectiles.

Your goal here is to cut at an angle from the backside of the surround. Your going to start from the bottom edge of the fin. You may have to switch from cutting from the back to the front of the surround to dodge the tabs, just be careful when you're working from the front and VISIBLE side of your surround.





You just continue cutting away the three areas between the fins.

NOTE: It's better to "cut wide" and the sand and smooth the rough edges, instead of cutting into the FIN itself.



Next step is to switch out your cutting disc for a sanding wheel on your dremel. With the sanding wheel, you are going to knock down on large pieces your missed and smooth the find. Be careful as the wheel can easily gouge out a check of the plastic. Once again, slow speed on the dremel is better to prevent melting and goo-ifying. Try to keep the same angle as you cut to also prevent skating onto the outer part of the fin.



You may not be able to get exactly into all the corners of the fins, as you can see in the picture below. I just rounded these portions off. You can't see these at all once its on the car. so don't worry about it. Just cut them as close as you can and then round and smooth with your sand paper or sanding wheel.



Next step is to to take some sandpaper and smooth everything out. Note that the surround has a gloss finish, anything you sand will remove that gloss, so keep your sand paper on the parts you've actually altered. Once again, this isn't noticeable, once its on the car.



REPEAT PROCESS ON THE OTHER SURROUND.

Now to put your vented surround back in. Insert the Fog Light Hole side first. There are two log tabs there you'll want to put in first. Then just start applying pressure until you hear/feel all the tabs click into place. Remember, there's two at the top and two at the bottom. Give it a light tug to ensure you've got them seated correctly.



Hope this helps. If you've got any questions, send me a PM.

[ginger_snaps]

[QUOTE=slow_poke25mph;12386079]

What's the basket in this picture?


Ginger_snaps: Here's the Amazon link to the basket. If you're using whispbars, the basket will actually sit ON TOP of the black plastic end-clamps for the bars.
https://www.amazon.com/Rage-Powerspo...ds=roof+basket

Thanks man, appreciate it. Love the car


This helpful information provided by GngrSnaps

[pwdrskr]

Can you post a link to where you got the bumper cover? Thanks!

[slow_poke25mph]

Can you post a link to where you got the bumper cover? Thanks!

pwdrskr: Here's the link to NGP for the bumper cover:
http://www.ngpracing.com/newstore/re...012-clone.html

[pwdrskr]

pwdrskr: Here's the link to NGP for the bumper cover:
http://www.ngpracing.com/newstore/re...012-clone.html

Thank you! Ordered this morning.

[earhythmic]

Thanks again for the DIY! I took it a step further and sanded all the edges to blend the part I cut into the existing fin - took forever. Zapped it with some black trim touch up paint from Autozone and now looks totally OEM.

[dropshadow]

B8/8.5 A4 and Allroad Fog Surround Vent DIY

Mind if I quote this post and paste it into the B8.5 allroad megathread? Or would you rather that I just link to it here?

[Jezza]

This is awesome. Major props for your innovative and economical mods. The Grocery Getter looks amazing. Sub'd for later awesomeness.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Audizine mobile app

[0000_S5]

^^ +1


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[slow_poke25mph]

Dropshadow: go ahead and drop it in there or link. Either one is fine.

[slow_poke25mph]

Earhithymic: Looks good! How does the black looks against the grey bumper? Since I've got the grill blacked out, it might look more fluid if both the grill and vents are the same color.

[earhythmic]

Earhithymic: Looks good! How does the black looks against the grey bumper? Since I've got the grill blacked out, it might look more fluid if both the grill and vents are the same color.

It's the same shade as the OEM plastic was so it would likely look the same as it does when it's clean. I only sprayed the fins where I sanded and you can't even tell where the paint ends and the OEM plastic begins.

[SirBreezy]

Thanks for the thread. Giving me a lot of different ideas to start my build

[JFloyd]

Great build! A+ for the grocery cart. Pretty original.

[hanyoung]

Beautiful ride - how do you like the shift knob? I read that you have to lift up to get it to shift? Does that get annoying at all? Any safety issues? Looks beautiful BTW.

[slow_poke25mph]

Hanyoung: I love the BFI shit knob. It clears up a lot of space in the center console and I find it much more visually pleasing.

Yes, you have to lift up to shift. But this is the same OEM mechanical function. The side button on the OEM shifter causes a lifting motion. So you're not actually changing the mechanics of the system.

If had zero issues with the shifter and I've daily-ed it for over 14 months.


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[slow_poke25mph]

Latest and Greatest:

Got a chance to head over to Vag-Haus today to use his vagcom. I snapped a photo of his fast-as-F*** VW R. He's just got it back from paint after adding a fender/wide-body kit, so it's sitting on his older BBS wheels. He's got a custom set of 3 piece BBS sitting in another corner. There's a older TT, which is 75% done with complete engine rebuild to accommodate a ridiculous huge turbo. (I'll grab a photo of the TT next time.)



Main goal today was to enable the "hidden" green menu and enable the dynamic driving function.



I used the write up from Audi Enthusiasts, as it was the most comprehensive I found. http://www.audienthusiasts.com/VagCom_FL_ADS.html



Everything went smoothly and I was able to add both menu functions.



I also went ahead and added the function that shows the AT gear in the dash display at all times. (I had already added the gauge sweep function when I upgraded to the APR stage 2 tune).

I finally had to clear an Air Bag Light fault code. This stemmed from the disaster of changing out the vacuum lines during the boost gauge install. I had been rolling with this fault code for months and it had been getting on my nerves.

[slow_poke25mph]

In other AWESOME news. PASMAG featured a shot of the Grocery Getter from the Low Class Militia Show last week.

Here's the link, its photo #30. http://tuneup.pasmag.com/7/

[audiipolak]

love the allroad man! very unique! question, what mount are you using for the 3P controller? ive been trying to find something that works in that very exact spot!!

[dropshadow]

love the allroad man! very unique! question, what mount are you using for the 3P controller? ive been trying to find something that works in that very exact spot!!

Interested in this as well. It kind of looks like one of these stuck into the coin holder:

[slow_poke25mph]

Dropshadow is exactly correct. It's pretty much that exact same holder stuck in the coin holder. Works extremely well and has popped out on me.

Under certain sunlight, the screen can be hard to read, but I'm not adjusting the pressure unless I'm parked anyway.


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[dropshadow]

Dropshadow is exactly correct. It's pretty much that exact same holder stuck in the coin holder. Works extremely well and has popped out on me.

Under certain sunlight, the screen can be hard to read, but I'm not adjusting the pressure unless I'm parked anyway.

Thanks for that info. I'm trying to figure out how to mount my controller (if I ever receive one), and that's a great solution. I think I've even got one of those mounts floating around somewhere.

[audiipolak]

Dropshadow is exactly correct. It's pretty much that exact same holder stuck in the coin holder. Works extremely well and has popped out on me.

Under certain sunlight, the screen can be hard to read, but I'm not adjusting the pressure unless I'm parked anyway.


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You are the man!!! Thanks so much for the idea! Keep the build going!



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[slow_poke25mph]

Audiipolak: that looks perfect.

As an FYI it's not too difficult to run the controller cable through the center console and up through the bottom on the coin holder.

If you've already got you cable running into the armrest it's not much to go through the coin holder.


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[slow_poke25mph]

If you've been following the thread, you're tracking the air system is hidden in the spare tire well. This was to retain the space in the boot, which was the whole reason I wanted the wagon. But as I've been taking the AR to more shows, it's time to clean up the system and make it something show worthy. The End-Goal is to create a false floor above the battery, which hugs the tank. Then have hard lines (copper?) above the false floor, which run into the manifold and the tank.

Here's a shot of how the system looks now. I put Dynamat down about 6 months ago to help muffle the sound of the compressors (They tended to scare people riding in the back seat, especially the baby).



Next, I pulled the pumps and removed them from the wooden plates they sat on. From here it was figuring out what items were flush with the battery top and what would have to be removed and relocated.



Some measuring was needed to ensure the compressors would not sit higher than the tank once they were mounted on a full false floor. Here's a shot of the measuring process.



The top of the subwoofer box is going to have to be cut down about an inch. Using a straight edge I marked the box where it was going to be cut in order to sit flush with the battery.



Next step was removing the subwoofer box. If anyone wants to know what it looks like, I've snapped a few photos. It comes out with three screws. I also looked at the speaker, which is a very cheap paper model. I'm going to check how many watts are going to this speaker and looks for a quality replacement (More to follow on that separate project.





I'm not sure what I'm going to make the false floor out of yet, possibly MDF, plywood, or maybe even aluminum. Either way, I need to make a template. Using the never-fail-me cardboard, I started marking and cutting.





I cut the template into a front and rear to make the handling easier. I finished up the template today.

[makisupa]

Any updates on this little project you got going?

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[BeerBrent]

Very nice!
The grocery cart roof rack is hilariously awesome!

[slow_poke25mph]

Sorry for the slow updates, but it's been summer vacation for the kids. There's also been a long time waiting on parts from various vendors. You know what happens when you order the wrong size air fitting? You have to wait another few weeks to get the correct one. Anyway, on with the build:

Once I got the template made out of cardboard, it was time to put the old Dremel to work cutting out plywood. The dremel works well cutting out complex curves, though it isn't the fastest tool.


It was hitting 105+ degrees here in El Paso, which eventually killed my 15-year old Dremel. I kept giving it breaks in the freezer, but it's age finally caught up to it. But this did give me and excuse to buy a new, younger, faster model.


Test fitting the false floor and trying to figure out how I wanted arrange everything to both be visually pleasing and would also not come into conflict with the OEM battery placement.


For Father's Day, the Wife bought me some big-boy tools. I could finally put away that old and weak Black & Decker drill.


After marking up where all the fittings, compressors and manifold were going to sit, I started drilling out the various holes. I also wanted something to break up the eventual carpet and add a little wow factor. I decided I was going to inset a piece of lexan and an Audi symbol with LEDs. You know, take a semi-simple project and amp it up to 11....


Ran the wiring for the two LED strips to the 12V outlet on the passenger side trunk. It's easy to access and only provide power when the ignition is on.


I used an extra piece of Lexan and covered it in some spare black vinyl wrap. This provided the base for the Audi symbol cut out. Here's a shot of the bottom of the false floor, showing how I ran the air line through the water trap from the tank to the manifold.


This was my first time shaping hard-lines. Purchased a cutter and bender from Lowes. It turned out easier than I expected, as the Aluminum is pretty easy to work with and make minor adjustments by hand.



Once all the cutouts where complete with numerous test fittings, I was time to cover the false floor in Carpet (from Crutchfield). Used a combination of 3M spray and staples. Also Carpeted the spare tire well to cover the Dynamat.



Here's a shot of the cutout Audi symbol with the LED strip underneath. I cut the lip at and angle to hide the strip.


Final step was cutting piece of aluminum to slide over the hole where the manifold control cable passed through. Once again I covered this in 3M Vinyl wrap


And here we have the finished product!








And everything still covers up with the original floor for the stealth appeal and for the added storage/hauling space.