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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    Oct 26 2011
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    CA

    Cylinder Head Install on 2.7T Motor

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    Anyone got any info on installing cylinder heads on a 2.7T motor? My timing belt broke on my motor. And I'm about to remove my messed up cylinder heads and replace them with good ones. My issue is do you need to rotate the cam gears to be at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the cylinder heads before you put them on the block? Or do you just need to count the chains like the picture below. Been searching online but can't find any concrete info on this. I already turned the crank pulley on the block to TDC (Top Dead Center). Only one of my cylinder heads have the cam markings line up. The second cylinder heads I have will line up but, the valves stay open on the bottom? I can get pictures of the heads and markings when I get home from work today. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.



    Last edited by xalents23; 10-20-2014 at 07:51 PM.

  2. #2
    Active Member Three Rings auditrackspeed's Avatar
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    Jun 17 2014
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    Maryland

    Very precise work man, id ask a few local shops good luck bro

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Nov 16 2010
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    Trackspeed has a point, ye be playing with fire here. Be honest with yourself about your abilities, major potential for bad shit to happen if you get something wrong here.


    This is how I do it.

    First, roll the crank backward ~60deg until you see the slot on the left of this pic in the hole where the crank lock goes. You can lock it with the crank pin if you want.
    This gets the pistons down out of the way of the valves just to be safe. You can rotate it back to the right spot just before you put the belt on.




    This pic is how I set the cams up. Just line them up in the chain so the notches are straight up when you pull it tight, slip the tensioner in without letting the chain slip on the sprockets, and set them in the head.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    Oct 26 2011
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    Okay, I think I bit more than I can chew. Let's say I lock the crank with the lock pin. Then remove my old heads and then put the new ones on. And put the cam lock bar on the cams and they fit. Does that mean I'm good to go with putting the timing belt on. And turning the crank bolt 2-5 revolutions. Checking the timing with the cam lock bar each revolution. And the cam lock bar fits on the cams.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings S4gasm aka LOTR's Avatar
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    Sep 30 2006
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    01 S4 Santorin 6 Spd
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    Missoula, MT

    Quote Originally Posted by xalents23 View Post
    Okay, I think I bit more than I can chew. Let's say I lock the crank with the lock pin. Then remove my old heads and then put the new ones on. And put the cam lock bar on the cams and they fit. Does that mean I'm good to go with putting the timing belt on. And turning the crank bolt 2-5 revolutions. Checking the timing with the cam lock bar each revolution. And the cam lock bar fits on the cams.

    Yes you are on the right path. As long as you make sure the heads are marked at TDC before installing them on the block, and the block is also at TDC, you will be ok. Keep in mind the heads can appear to be at TDC but can actually be a 180 degrees off, the cam lock bar will only go on the heads when they are at TDC, iirc the bigger holes on the cam sprockets need to face inwards, otherwise you're 180 off. And if you bought a spare head, it's very unlikely the PO was worried about getting the motor at TDC before he ripped the head off to sell it.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    Oct 26 2011
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    CA

    Quote Originally Posted by S4gasm aka LOTR View Post
    Yes you are on the right path. As long as you make sure the heads are marked at TDC before installing them on the block, and the block is also at TDC, you will be ok. Keep in mind the heads can appear to be at TDC but can actually be a 180 degrees off, the cam lock bar will only go on the heads when they are at TDC, iirc the bigger holes on the cam sprockets need to face inwards, otherwise you're 180 off. And if you bought a spare head, it's very unlikely the PO was worried about getting the motor at TDC before he ripped the head off to sell it.
    Thanks for the info S4gasm aka LOTR much appreciated. I feel a little better now that, it's not going to be as hard as I thought it would be replacing the 2.7T heads. Hopefully I can get this done by this weekend. So, I can start on the timing belt service.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    CA

    So, I had some time today to mock up my cylinder heads. Let me know what you guys think. The driver side CAM markings line up and the chain count is 16. The passenger side CAM markings don't line up. But it does have a yellow paint mark near the CAM arrow. Should I install the passenger side this way or fix the CAM timing marks so they line up? I tried many rotations on passenger side but the markings won't line up. The only way they line up is with the valves open. Which I attached a picture below.

    Mock up if they are installed on the car:



    Driver side CAM markings:





    Passenger side CAM markings:



    Valves open when timing marks are matched on the passenger side:


  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings flips4's Avatar
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    Oct 27 2006
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    Ocean Springs, MS

    looks like the pass side cams are not aligned properly. The notch on the cam should line up with the arrow on the back cam bearing cap.
    If it aint broke... Dont fix it!

  9. #9
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Mar 30 2014
    AZ Member #
    167855
    Location
    Fullerton/California/USA

    set everything motor to tdc then set camshafts to tdc and install the heads

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