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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings rongeur's Avatar
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    Product Review: CTS Turbo Front Mount Intercooler Kit for B7

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    Review: CTS Turbo Front Mount Intercooler Kit for the Audi A4 B7 2.0T

    Recently, CTS Turbo of Langley, BC has put together a front mount intercooler kit for the B7 2.0T. In brief, their kit contains a high-density 600HP rated bar and plate core (20” x 11” x 3”) with cast aluminum end tanks, 2.5” 304 stainless steel piping, 4 ply silicone connectors and stainless steel T-bolt clamps (see images below). The specifications can also be found at CTS Turbo's website

    To get this product into our hands and to help them break into the B7 market, CTS offered this kit at a discount to the first several buyers. I took advantage of this offer, as I knew I would eventually be looking for an FMIC and at their initial price I would be saving substantially over the ER FMIC that I was previously considering. After the install and running a few logs before and after, I thought it would be appropriate to share my findings.

    The Kit:

    The kit arrived well packaged with no signs of external damage to the box/packaging. Upon opening, the first impressions are that of very high quality craftsmanship. All pieces are pristine and all welds are spot on and clean. The core is well constructed and clean.

    The Core:

    Nice dense fin count

    Peaking inside the core

    304 Stainless Steel piping, clamps and hoses


    The Install:
    Bumper off (there are multiple DIY for this on AZ, search. I recommend the one by Phil (fly300kts))

    Crashbar off

    Stock SMIC removed. Pipes, hoses and intercooler mounted and mocked up for fitment

    Here is the original mounting screw that was to be reused. Note the thickness of the intercooler mount and the AC radiator leaving only 2 threads for engagement into the plastic radiator surround.

    Here is the image from CTS Turbo showing how the supplied black o-ring goes over the native green o-ring of the MAP sensor

    Birdseye view of the modified crashbar. One word: Sawzall.

    Rear view of the modified crashbar

    Everything mounted and fitted, crashbar back on.

    Close up view of the turbo outlet to core

    Close up view of the core to the up-pipe

    Engine bay view of the up-pipe to the intake manifold


    Installation pearls:
    1.) Use a good lubricant for the pipes and hoses to allow you to adjust the fit just right. Sounds common sense, but I found that the hoses engage 2-3+ inches on the pipes to fit right and to adjust for proper fitment of fogs, power steering cooler etc. and to go back and adjust everything can be a real pain…. Especially when you are ready to put your bumper back on and you realize you forgot to account for your fogs….

    2.) The MAP sensor o-ring supplied is intended to sit behind the original green o-ring to obtain proper seal. The sensor will not seal if you simply exchange the o-rings. DO NOT CUT OFF OLD GREEN O-RING! Luckily, when I told my dad who was helping the install to just cut it off and put the new one on to save time, he had enough wisdom and insight to stretch it off instead of cutting it. (the picture above was not available for reference during the install until I call them)

    3.) The mounting torx screws that mount the intercooler are reused from the AC radiator mounting screws and only engage ~2 threads after traveling through the thick intercooler mounts. I didn’t feel comfortable with an 18.2lb intercooler suspended only by a combined 4 threads. Luckily, I was able to source aluminum screws with similar thread size and pitch from the local hardware store that engaged completely.

    4.) The stock power-steering cooler will need to be gently tweaked to get to clear, be patient with it and don’t force it.

    Results:
    So how does this kit perform? Using my limited resources: Vag-Com, laptop PC, an empty straight road and early dawn but still impressive Arizona heat, I conducted a simple test. I did 3 runs (3rd Gear WOT ~2000-6300 RPM) with the stock SMICs (ambient temp 98F) and 3 runs with the CTS FMIC (ambient temp 92F). In between each run, the engine was allowed a cool down period that consisted of easy driving (not in boost) to the start of the run again. Using the Vag-Com, I logged intake air temp, intake air mass and boost (actual) against RPM among other measuring blocks. All data was graphed using an XY comparison in Microsoft excel (see below). At the time of this testing, my car is running APR stage 1 91-octane tune, 034 HFC, Stasis cat-back exhaust, K&N drop in filter and 034 TIP.

    Intake Air Temp: As I expected, the heat soak seen in the stock SMICs was significantly improved / resolved with the FMIC system. Despite the ambient temp being 6F degrees hotter for the stock SMIC runs, there was no heat soaking seen in the FMIC graphs and remained an average of 10C degrees cooler than the stock setup. Even with crudely correcting the difference in ambient temps, the FMIC is still consistently 6C degrees cooler than stock.


    Boost Pressure / Turbo Spool: I was pleasantly surprised to find that my stock K03 is now spooling consistently 200-300 RPM faster than the previous setup with stock SMIC. In addition, I noticed I am now peaking boost at least 0.5 PSI higher than the stock setup. I don’t know if the higher peak is due to the kit or if it was just my car “feeling” better that day.


    Intake Air Mass: Judging by the graphs below, it seems I have also picked up some increase mass air flow with the FMIC system over the SMIC system, especially in the higher RPMs. With the stock setup, I was maxing around 183g/s, and with the FMIC system, I am now flowing up to 194 g/s. A 10+ g/s increase in the upper RPMs.


    Other findings that I didn’t graph, but by visual comparison of the logs, I noted that some of my minor ignition timing delay was reduced from stock SMIC to the CTS FMIC kit. If anyone is interested in seeing the logs in the raw form, let me know and I will try and post them later.

    One final note, I noticed a subtle but notable improvement in engine sound with the FMIC compared to the SMIC. Nothing mind blowing, but definitely a nice rumble that seems to be coming from the stainless steel pipes that help distract me from the characteristic normal ticking our engines have at idle.

    Conclusions:

    Overall, I am happy with the addition of this FMIC kit from CTS Turbo. The craftsmanship and materials are all of high quality. The stainless steel piping vs aluminum piping concern for me went right out the door once I was able to put my hands on them. I will eat those few additional pounds for the added durability and look of the 304 stainless steel. The installation was pretty straightforward, however a simple sheet of instructions would have been helpful and cleared up any confusion such as the MAP sensor o-ring configuration. Finally, the significant performance increases and tone improvement of the FMIC was immediately noticeable to me driving as well as seen on the comparison graphs from the logs above.

    While I do not have any hands on experience with any other of the quality kits offered for our platform (AWE, ER, RAI, 034 etc), I would expect them all to have similar results as I suspect majority of the improvements are related to the discarding of the restrictive and inefficient SMIC system.

    Pros:
    - High quality craftsmanship and materials
    - Intercooler core features high density fin count and rated up to 600HP (more than sufficient for all current BT offerings for the B7)
    - Easy installation (once the MAP sensor o-ring seal was sorted out)
    - No trimming of the bumper cover or fogs
    - Performs well
    - Looks aggressive
    - Currently @ $849 the price is significantly less than other similar quality kits

    Cons:
    - No instructions (but then again its just some pipes, hose connectors and a core…)
    - Heavy, kit weighing in at 32lbs
    - The re-used mounting screws seem inadequate to hold the 18.2lb core
    - The screws included for mounting the MAP sensor should be longer
    - Trimming required to fit the crashbar
    - *opinion* The core end tank pipes ideally should be about 1-2 inches lower and straight for more ideal / ease of fitment.

    Thank you to CTS Turbo for putting this kit into our hands for a great price. I have no affiliation with CTS Turbo other than I am running their product on my car. All findings noted above were my observations only and may vary from car to car. If anyone has any questions or comments, please let me know.

    -jfa
    2008 A4 2.0T Quattro 6MT S-Line QGM
    Stage 3 JHM TD05H-R on a fully built motor
    Build Thread

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings A-BlacK_MambA-4's Avatar
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    '05.5 A4 2.0T Tip Revo Stage 2; Wifes 2013 Chevy Cruze
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    Man that thing is purdy Clean install too. Any fitment problems/trimming with fogs on driver side?
    -JOEL

    The Real Black Mamba

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Operator's Avatar
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    Feb 06 2009
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    328d, Tacoma
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    Woodland Park, Colorado

    Nice write-up, and clean install. Looks good!
    EFR 6758 by UM
    Info:
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    Feat'd AZ'er

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Salt n Peppa's Avatar
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    I believe he did say no bumper modification was required, aside from the crashbar. Maybe I remember incorrectly though.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    Very thorough! Great job, and great results. I am actually surprised you hit 20 psi with Apr 1 in that heat in the first place!
    2021 Audi S4, P34 Intake

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings rubberband's Avatar
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    looks like a quality kit and a proper writeup. good job.
    Liquor in the front Poker in the rear - Reverand Horton Heat

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings rongeur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A-BlacK_MambA-4 View Post
    Man that thing is purdy Clean install too. Any fitment problems/trimming with fogs on driver side?
    The bumper fit fine without any problems. The s-line fog grills lie right up next to the silicone hoses off the core but do not put any significant stress on them. Before I started using some motor oil to lube the hose joints, I did remove some of the, in my opinion, extra silicone off the hosing to make adjusting easier. By doing this I shorted myself the length I needed to clear the driver side fog adjustment mechanism as the piping and hoses run below the fog for correct fitment. Luckily for me, I had gutted my fogs and retrofitted my fogs with the blazer HID projectors making the adjustment housing expendable. Had I left the original amount of silicone I would have cleared with some adjustment to hose position.
    2008 A4 2.0T Quattro 6MT S-Line QGM
    Stage 3 JHM TD05H-R on a fully built motor
    Build Thread

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings rongeur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimrobbington View Post
    Very thorough! Great job, and great results. I am actually surprised you hit 20 psi with Apr 1 in that heat in the first place!
    Me too. I remember when I first installed the stasis exhaust and 034 HFC I was hitting the 20s no prob, but then the ECU adjusted or something bringing it back to 18-19. I will follow up to see if my peaks continue to be in the 19-20s. My car has days where hitting 17 seems to be the best I could do but then the next day it will hit 19s no prob, now 20s. I don't know, she's temperamental I guess.....
    2008 A4 2.0T Quattro 6MT S-Line QGM
    Stage 3 JHM TD05H-R on a fully built motor
    Build Thread

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings shiro1745's Avatar
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    sex
    - Chip

    K0R-GT -- S3 injectors -- Maestro tune -- IE Drop-in rods

    "It took 4 bad crankshaft seals and lots of cursing to build my avatar"

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings rongeur's Avatar
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    I ran across some interesting information on Ross-Tech FAQ for fuel trims:
    Your peak airflow should be roughly 0.80 times your horsepower if you are close to sea level. So, if you have a stock 150 hp 1.8T, expect around 120 g/s.
    That being true, a gain of 10 g/s can equal up to 12.5 HP at the crank or about 8 HP to the wheels. Furthermore, at 194g/s equals roughly 242.5 at the crank (granted Phx is roughly 1000ft above sea level), not bad for 91 oct APR stage I.
    Last edited by rongeur; 07-16-2012 at 10:00 PM. Reason: lable units for no confusion
    2008 A4 2.0T Quattro 6MT S-Line QGM
    Stage 3 JHM TD05H-R on a fully built motor
    Build Thread

  11. #11
    Registered User Four Rings CTS Turbo's Avatar
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    Nov 12 2008
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    01 S4, 04 A4, 15 GTI, 15 S3
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    Thanks for the great write up, if anyone is looking for one of these kit feel free to drop us a line. This was one of the first intercooler kits we sent out for the B7, installation instructions are on our agenda for sure. Also keep in mind the reduction in temps is in Celsius as opposed to Fahrenheit, which may have been missed by some.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Salt n Peppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiro1745 View Post
    sex
    This goes without saying haha

    Also. That's... not what she said.

    Boom.

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings markskyline's Avatar
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    08 Ninja ZX6R, 15 Harley Iron 1200, 05 Range Rover, 00 Porsche Boxster
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    Thanks for the review. I'm in for a kit! Just picked up a B7 and loving it!
    Last edited by markskyline; 07-18-2013 at 02:11 AM.
    2018 SQ5 Technik | Dolphin Grey Pearl | Sport Diff | B&O | CF Trim
    SOLD 2011 S4 B8 6sp MT Silver Prestige | Sport Diff | B&O | Atlas Trim | EPL Tune | CTS Pulley | CTS Exhaust | CTS Intake | H&R OE Springs | Alpine MRV-M500 Amp | Alpine SWR-10D4 Sub
    SOLD 2007 A4 B7 Black MT | Revo Stage2+ | Piston DV | HPFP | CTS FMIC | CTS Catch Can | AWE Exhaust | Stasis Coilovers | 19" Riva Wheels | Deval Front Bumper | S6 LED Fogs | 3pc Trunk Lip

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