Bang and Olufsen (B&O) Subwoofer / Amplifier Add-On DIY

**jackp311** · 02-22-2012 03:37 PM

This isn't a very detailed DIY. But, it does show some crucial pictures and, in my opinion most importantly, tells you the wires to be looking for.

Here's links to the products I used. You can use any subwoofer you choose. However, I highly recommend the JL Audio Microsub I list here. It is a great match and very small. The amp is also more than ideal because it pretty much snaps in to the factory location. No additional items were used to secure it and I feel it is very well retained.

Subwoofer
Amplifier
Power Cable
Fuse Holder
Line Out Converter
RCA Cable
Ring Terminals
Spade Terminals

With regards to the terminals, power wire, and other miscellaneous items: Just go to those categories and pick whatever has free shipping and the best price at that time. Stay away from cheap wire, though. It is usually thick jacketing and does not have the high strand counts of something nicer. The Kicker stuff I used is extremely flexible and very easy to run along the factory wiring.

Start by removing everything in the trunk, trim wise and carpet wise. The trim is removed very easily compared to previous models. Start by flipping up the tie-down hooks. Underneath is two Torx 25 (T25) bolts for each of them. Remove the bolts and the entire hook assembly comes out. Now, remove the trunk mat by unclipping the floor mat style hooks at the front. Just grab them from underneath and lift straight up. Remove the spare tire, the tool cover, and the tools. These just pull out after removing the hand tightened retainer at the top of the assembly. You will need to remove the bracket above the battery. So, you might as well do it now. It's a few 13mm hex head bolts and it will remove when tilted to the rear.

The side trim is the toughest part to remove back here. Remember to pull the trim as close to the clips as possible. If you have a panel puller, it helps. Remove from the back first. Once the back is undone, fold the seats down to remove the front part from inside the car. Just look at everything before you start pulling and you shouldn't mess anything up.

Here is a pic of the clips:

If you break one, it won't be the clip that breaks. It will be the plastic used to hold the clip to the carpet. In a worse-case scenario, you can glue these back together with hot glue or an adhesive of your choice. Otherwise, it's a whole new carpet piece. ($$$) Like I said, go slowly and carefully.

Once you're done removing items. The first place we tackled is the remote turn on lead. We didn't find any in the audio harness. So, we went to the fuse box on the other side. The entire red row of fuses is switched +12V. So, it's the perfect place to tap. The guy that did this with me only solders and heat shrinks, no wire taps. Learn to solder on something else outside the car, first, though. It's cramped.

The wire you're after is black with a purple trace. Use a razor or sharp blade to cut the insulation and pull it back. Do not cut through the wire. Now, using a pick or sharp object, open a hole in the wiring to splice in your +12V wire. Add that in and solder it up. Now, wrap it up with quality electrical tape. Run that across to the other side of the trunk.

A note about running wires. Always run them along factory wires and zip tie them on, even if it seems out of the way. If you go in for service and they have to remove the wiring, they will be careful doing it as it may mess up other items. If it's just laying there, they'll rip it out and cause you a headache later.

Now, on to the amp itself.

Here is the left side of the trunk area with everything removed.

There are four fasteners to undo. All are 10mm hex head. Two are on the bottom of the bracket holding the top amp. The other two are in back of the top amp. Be careful not to drop these two in the back, it's a tight spot. Once removed, the amp assembly tilts out. Just leave it connected for now.

Let's wire in the LOC. The wires we're after are White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative). These can be cut directly, no splicing. Once cut, solder in the leads to your LOC. If you have a two channel LOC like the one I picture, twist both positive leads together and both negative leads. This will make it a mono signal.

Now, place your amp in the space between the two factory amps. It almost snaps in there. It's PERFECT, isn't it? You're welcome. Use some double sided foam tape or strong velcro to secure the LOC to the top of the amp. You can now begin your power wiring.

Before running your positive wire to the battery, tape up the other end of it. If it catches ground, that's a short around the battery, big no no. Use a ring terminal to attach to the factory battery post. There is a nut available to do this.

Again, run your wiring along factory paths. The fuse holder sits perfectly right here.

Above and to the right of the factory amp rack is a factory ground nut. Use this and a ring terminal for your ground. Cut your wires to length, attach spade terminals and plug them into your amp. Now you can put the fuse in the fuse holder and complete the circuit.

You're almost done. Run a short RCA cable (18" is perfect) from the LOC to the amp. Max the gains on the LOC and start low on the amp. You will need a short run of wire to get to the sub from your amp. Attach spade terminals and lock it into the amp. As you reassemble things, pull the speaker wire from under the left side carpet out into the tire area. Leave yourself enough to play with placement of the sub. Once you place the sub where you would like, you can set the gains and listen for clipping. Please note that the way this is wired, the sub only comes on with ignition on, not in accessory mode.

Here's the finished amp install:

It looks very factory. I couldn't be happier.

Reassemble everything and place your sub in its final spot. It can be secured using the hook side of industrial velcro. If you have 1/2" staples and a gun, you can staple the velcro to the box. Don't use anything longer than 1/2", though, or you'll penetrate the sealed airspace. Place two 2" x 2" strips on the bottom and one long run across the top. It will grab the factory carpet very well.

In my opinion, this amp and sub combo is a perfect match. I will be looking for a way to add a sub volume control to the factory B&O menu on the MMI. I would love to be able to turn it down on the bass heavy songs. But, otherwise, I couldn't be happier.

PM me with any questions and I hope this helps.

Thanks!

**ChrisB8S4** · 03-03-2012 06:02 PM

Thanks for this post. I may try it.

**RavinJetta** · 03-03-2012 10:24 PM

Very nice writeup

**tchuck** · 03-03-2012 10:41 PM

Nice write-up.

**pf_lewis** · 04-02-2012 05:06 AM

Awesome write up

I just installed my system off your DIY. Thanks for adding the remote tap line- would never have found that myself! How do you like that microsub box? What type of music does/doesn't sound good on it?
Thanks

**mattchat** · 04-02-2012 08:15 AM

Not too shabby, this looks really simple. Thanks for the write up. I'm a total noob to Audi's, waiting on my 2013 right now. Is that a battery under the spare tire for the amps?? If so, that is fantastic...Audi's really do design there stuff well. The factory sub looks like it is sitting in there as well, a little closer to the seats on the trunk floor, is that it? I have used JL for a long time and am impressed with the little 8 inch ported sub box I have in my current ride. Great Write Up!!

What's the difference in sound? Any thoughts on using the remote connection to run a sub level switch to the cabin? If you can get it to work on the MMI menu system, even better.

**jackp311** · 04-02-2012 09:32 AM

Lewis: The sub sounds good on everything. I really like it. It rolls of pretty fast below 30hz or so. So, it's no 12" in a free air setup. But, it is very punchy and musical. They also make a dual 8 version and a 6" version now.
Matt: I added a passive remote gain setup a few weekends ago. w/ B&O, you cannot get sub level on MMI (stinks, I know). The factory sub is up on the bottom of the parcel shelf. The items you see in the wheel well are some electronics. Check out the remote gain knob here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1033338...eat=directlink

**dizzlesizzle** · 04-02-2012 05:50 PM

Very nice write up and thank you for the easy remote wire tap in location, i was looking for something back there and that's the perfect location. I do have a few questions...Where are these White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative) coming from? Are these the leads from the factory Amp to the factory sub? I ask this because a few months back i tapped into the positive and negative leads going to the factory sub and used those as the signal wire for the high pass connection (not sure if that's the right terminology) to my amp rather than running LOC and RCA cable since the amp had this available as a connection. I was able to get a signal but the problem was no matter how low (completely at -0 bass level on the amp) and bass turned all the way down on the MMI i had nothing but distorted bass from anything i played. The only thing that sounded "OK" or reasonable to listen was some remastered Pink Floyd 320bit rate off my iPod. I also noticed the amp getting hotter than usual which i never noticed having in another car before my S4 so i removed it all. Not sure if it was an issue with the signal coming off the factory amp then being used as a signal in another amp? Also are u using a special amp and speaker i know JL, i think Audi's us a 8 Ohm rather than 4 Ohm which most amps/speakers are (don't quote me). I would really like to reinstall my amp and speaker, maybe adding the LOC will fix it all?

**cory_can** · 04-02-2012 05:56 PM

Originally Posted by dizzlesizzle

Very nice write up and thank you for the easy remote wire tap in location, i was looking for something back there and that's the perfect location. I do have a few questions...Where are these White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative) coming from? Are these the leads from the factory Amp to the factory sub? I ask this because a few months back i tapped into the positive and negative leads going to the factory sub and used those as the signal wire for the high pass connection (not sure if that's the right terminology) to my amp rather than running LOC and RCA cable since the amp had this available as a connection. I was able to get a signal but the problem was no matter how low (completely at -0 bass level on the amp) and bass turned all the way down on the MMI i had nothing but distorted bass from anything i played. The only thing that sounded "OK" or reasonable to listen was some remastered Pink Floyd 320bit rate off my iPod. I also noticed the amp getting hotter than usual which i never noticed having in another car before my S4 so i removed it all. Not sure if it was an issue with the signal coming off the factory amp then being used as a signal in another amp? Also are u using a special amp and speaker i know JL, i think Audi's us a 8 Ohm rather than 4 Ohm which most amps/speakers are (don't quote me). I would really like to reinstall my amp and speaker, maybe adding the LOC will fix it all?

Read here for additional info....
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ystem-Pictures

Yes, you need a LOC unless your aftermarket amp can cope with high voltage inputs (not many do). There is lots of information about this subject in the link provided.

**dizzlesizzle** · 04-02-2012 06:02 PM

Originally Posted by cory_can

Read here for additional info....
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ystem-Pictures

Yes, you need a LOC unless your aftermarket amp can cope with high voltage inputs (not many do). There is lots of information about this subject in the link provided.

Thanks Cory...I will give it a read through.

**captain.ahab** · 07-09-2012 01:34 PM

Originally Posted by jackp311

Let's wire in the LOC. The wires we're after are White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative). These can be cut directly, no splicing. Once cut, solder in the leads to your LOC. If you have a two channel LOC like the one I picture, twist both positive leads together and both negative leads. This will make it a mono signal.

I am doing an install on my 2010 A4 B8 with B&O system and Navi, and will be using a LOC to generate signal for my amp. You mention above using the "White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative)", and I am wondering which sound output those are. Is that the rear sub signal? I have reviewed a number of forum posts elsewhere, and it looks like some people have used the left/right rear speaker wires for inputs. Did you try or compare the sound quality from those during your install? The concern being that the rear sub signal would be modified in some way (potentially in a way that negatively impacts sound) by the factory HU.

Thanks!

**jackp311** · 07-10-2012 02:52 PM

Originally Posted by captain.ahab

I am doing an install on my 2010 A4 B8 with B&O system and Navi, and will be using a LOC to generate signal for my amp. You mention above using the "White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative)", and I am wondering which sound output those are. Is that the rear sub signal? I have reviewed a number of forum posts elsewhere, and it looks like some people have used the left/right rear speaker wires for inputs. Did you try or compare the sound quality from those during your install? The concern being that the rear sub signal would be modified in some way (potentially in a way that negatively impacts sound) by the factory HU.

Thanks!

I thought about that when selecting the sub signal for my choice. The rear speakers are 5.25" drivers and are likely crossed over around 70hz at the lowest. You will not be getting much sub-bass from those outputs. Yes, the signal coming from the factory sub is likely eq'ed quite a bit and not a nice flat signal. But, that is the best choice and the lesser of two evils.

**DJayG3** · 01-04-2013 08:43 AM

I have been having discussions with the techs at my work (Audi Dealer). He reccomended not grabbing power at the battery post because the car monitors draws on the battery not at the post but at the black box (voltage sensor) that is right near the battery in trunk. His reasoning behind this was that our S4s can shut off the alternator (charging) and individual car systems if it senses draws on the battery. But this alternator/charging control comes after the battery and that putting draw on it before the discharge sensor could result in premature battery drain and insuffcient charge.

Has anybody noticed anything like this? I tend to believe the tech at my work because he is the shop foreman and been wrenching Audis a long ass time. Id love to hear some conversation about this....

**jackp311** · 01-04-2013 08:51 AM

Originally Posted by DJayG3

I have been having discussions with the techs at my work (Audi Dealer). He reccomended not grabbing power at the battery post because the car monitors draws on the battery not at the post but at the black box (voltage sensor) that is right near the battery in trunk. His reasoning behind this was that our S4s can shut off the alternator (charging) and individual car systems if it senses draws on the battery. But this alternator/charging control comes after the battery and that putting draw on it before the discharge sensor could result in premature battery drain and insuffcient charge.

Has anybody noticed anything like this? I tend to believe the tech at my work because he is the shop foreman and been wrenching Audis a long ass time. Id love to hear some conversation about this....

That's interesting - I haven't had anything weird happen - My voltage is pretty consistent, I have a voltmeter built into the P3 Cars gauge - anyone else notice anything weird?

**DJayG3** · 01-04-2013 09:30 AM

I wanted to tell him he was full of shit...I have never heard anything like this before. However, he explained it to me with facts and it made sense.

If you havent noticed anything then I would say he is just overcomplicating it. I wonder what the long term effects are, you know after a few years. He said that you could expect residual effects from the charging....I wish there was info about this, I mean our cars are still pretty new.

**jackp311** · 01-04-2013 09:33 AM

Here's the thing - the whole electricity system is one circuit - so, it should matter if I connected it at the battery or in the glove box, there is no before or after when it comes to current draw - the system is experiencing the load, not one particular area.

**QuattroRocket** · 01-04-2013 09:34 AM

Great write up thanks for the effort ! I am totally on the fence about the stereo upgrades. I have been a "audiophile" for many years but really wanted to avoid it in this car ... we'll see how long I can hold out !

**jackp311** · 01-04-2013 09:42 AM

FWIW - I don't think the B8 cars have this alternator disabling feature - does anyone know for sure? (I think it's b8.5s only.)

**DJayG3** · 01-04-2013 09:44 AM

Originally Posted by jackp311

Here's the thing - the whole electricity system is one circuit - so, it should matter if I connected it at the battery or in the glove box, there is no before or after when it comes to current draw - the system is experiencing the load, not one particular area.

I completely agree. That's why I wanted to call bullshit. My background with wiring and stereos is pretty extensive and I was comletely unaware of any such monitoring system. But it does make sense that the "electricity circuit" is one circuit, but if that circuit starts AFTER the battery then it is justifiable...you know? If the computer in the car looks for draw anywhere after the discharging module (thats what I'm gonna call it) then it can locate a draw and it is irrelavant as to where...it would be able to adapt and compensate.

But if the circuit begins not at the battery but at the discharging sensor and you put a draw where the car/circuit cant see it then it makes sense. The new Audis have crazy electronics and I am trying to be deliberate about my intended changes. I have NEVER heard of anything like this, but with the way these cars have changed it is legitimate and explainable.

Dont get me wrong, Im not trying to beat a dead horse here...but this is why I joined the forum today. Real life experiences with the mods that I havent done yet. Im gonna see if I can even locate said discharging module and then Ill put more stock in his warning.

**DJayG3** · 01-04-2013 09:45 AM

Originally Posted by jackp311

FWIW - I don't think the B8 cars have this alternator disabling feature - does anyone know for sure? (I think it's b8.5s only.)

Also a good point I over looked

**kdub** · 01-04-2013 02:47 PM

Originally Posted by jackp311

Here's the thing - the whole electricity system is one circuit - so, it should matter if I connected it at the battery or in the glove box, there is no before or after when it comes to current draw - the system is experiencing the load, not one particular area.

I think you're assuming that you can measure current draw like you can voltage - this is entirely not true. Measuring current has to be performed in series with the load because you are basically measuring the flow of electrons through a certain point of a circuit. Apparently Audi has this black box that measures the current flow from the battery to all systems in the vehicle, which is why all electrical systems are connected downstream of this black box (I'm assuming). If you connect another load upstream of this current measuring device, it won't be able to measure the current being drawn because it's not flowing through the black box.

Now I don't know what Audi uses the current draw measurement for, but if it's for battery conditioning, then it may be a good idea to connect the amplifier downstream of the black box. On the other side of the coin, if you do this and the brains of the vehicle sees an unexpected current draw on the system, will it think something is wrong?

**jackp311** · 01-04-2013 03:33 PM

Hmm - didn't think of it like that - I'm not an electrical engineer. Maybe someone who is can chime in...? I went back and looked at the pics to see if I could see any boxes. I do remember seeing more than one wire coming off the positive battery post. So, there are definitely some items that are not put through that box if there is one on my car.

**DJayG3** · 01-07-2013 07:12 AM

Originally Posted by kdub

Now I don't know what Audi uses the current draw measurement for, but if it's for battery conditioning, then it may be a good idea to connect the amplifier downstream of the black box. On the other side of the coin, if you do this and the brains of the vehicle sees an unexpected current draw on the system, will it think something is wrong?

I am pretty sure they use it save the alternator's life. I was explained, by the tech at my work, that the car can actually disengage the magnets in the alternator...again I dont see how this is possible

but I think this why you see a "battery discharging" warning when you start the car to warm it up (center cluster when exiting the vehicle after cold start).

Again, based on advice from an Audi tech, he said the car wouldnt think something is wrong, but actually not even know there was a problem and not apply charge to the battery when it is actually needed. Which is why all this started....

This is def a great DIY...especially the amp placement

...I plan on installing my amp and sub on wed and I will be grabbing power at a different location than directly at 12+ post on battery.

**jdomasi** · 07-11-2013 11:05 PM

any update on the amp draw?

**QuattroRocket** · 07-12-2013 07:56 AM

Great post and nice setup, its always bothered me that the strongest bass comes from the front of the cabin, seems to throw off the sound stage. Nevermind the lack of true sub bass output at all.

**Elanmike** · 07-13-2013 06:55 AM

Originally Posted by jackp311

Hmm - didn't think of it like that - I'm not an electrical engineer. Maybe someone who is can chime in...? I went back and looked at the pics to see if I could see any boxes. I do remember seeing more than one wire coming off the positive battery post. So, there are definitely some items that are not put through that box if there is one on my car.

I work in the Semiconductor field and one of my products was the chip that goes in that little black box. The battery sensor monitors the voltage, temperature and current to/from the battery to give an accurate state of charge and state of health. The chip protects the battery from over voltage and over current, and can calculate whether the battery is getting old or if there is not enough charge to start the car. They first appeared on cars with stop-start, where they would stop the car from automatically turning off if there wasn't enough charge to restart, but are now expanding to more models where they can signal the need to change the battery before you get stuck somewhere and can't start. I'm not sure if our Audi's have these, but sounds right from what has been posted.
Over the next few years, you'll see cars moving from the Lead-Acid batteries we have today to Li-ion batteries- the same as used in your cell-phone and laptop. The Li-ion batteries remove the lead, but require closer monitoring to prevent Over voltage or over current which can lead to fire risks (think Boing Dream-liner and Chevy Volt). All cars with these need a battery monitoring system.
That was probably way more than you wanted to know, but you asked an engineer to chime in, and when you do that, that's what you get!
Bottom line - connect your amp to the other side of the black box.

**cspcrx** · 07-13-2013 09:12 AM

Great info but where would that tie in point be then?

**vsbliss** · 07-13-2013 09:15 AM

great post. thanks for the info

**gendry** · 08-01-2013 02:01 PM

Anyone try this for 2013 B8.5 models? I want in. Curious if any difference between B8 and B8.5 for this.

**youngwallst** · 08-01-2013 02:34 PM

Awesome set up man! I've been thinking of adding a bigger sub and amp to my B&O... Only question I have is, are the stock speakers able to handle more juice?

**cspcrx** · 08-01-2013 09:41 PM

Originally Posted by DJayG3

I am pretty sure they use it save the alternator's life. I was explained, by the tech at my work, that the car can actually disengage the magnets in the alternator...again I dont see how this is possible

but I think this why you see a "battery discharging" warning when you start the car to warm it up (center cluster when exiting the vehicle after cold start).

Again, based on advice from an Audi tech, he said the car wouldnt think something is wrong, but actually not even know there was a problem and not apply charge to the battery when it is actually needed. Which is why all this started....

This is def a great DIY...especially the amp placement

...I plan on installing my amp and sub on wed and I will be grabbing power at a different location than directly at 12+ post on battery.

So where did you grab power and how is it working?

**gendry** · 08-08-2013 12:19 PM

Someone should answer this sharp gentleman's question. Its a really good one!

Any B8.5s do this? It work the same?

Originally Posted by gendry

Anyone try this for 2013 B8.5 models? I want in. Curious if any difference between B8 and B8.5 for this.

**gendry** · 08-09-2013 09:39 AM

Hmm, guessing nobody has tried on a B8.5. Okay let me try asking it a different way then -- anyone have any reason to suspect the B8.5 would be any different? I know the MMI has been updated, but anything about the sound system?

Originally Posted by gendry

Someone should answer this sharp gentleman's question. Its a really good one!

Any B8.5s do this? It work the same?

**dparm** · 08-09-2013 09:51 AM

Originally Posted by gendry

Hmm, guessing nobody has tried on a B8.5. Okay let me try asking it a different way then -- anyone have any reason to suspect the B8.5 would be any different? I know the MMI has been updated, but anything about the sound system?

It's very possible the wiring was changed. Don't assume anything.

**diegom305** · 10-04-2013 12:38 PM

Quick question, i am planning to change just the SUB, i am thinking on putting a dual coil 4 ohm subwoofer, connect the coils in series so they are 1 8ohm sub. i am not thinking on adding an amp.

Question for you here is. is it better to go with a 8ohm sub or my idea of going with a dual coil 4ohm sub will work? planning to go with Rockford Fosgate R2 Ultra Shallow 10-Inch 4 Ohm DVC Subwoofer http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R2SD...-R2SD4-10.html because of the type of sub. Not looking to break my car with the sub, i am just looking to have a better bass sound than my nearly silent B&O subwoofer. i feel better bass sound on my front doors than the 1 coming from the back.... used to have sums and amps in my previous cars but here i dont want the headache, just planning to dynomat and change the sub. Please let me know your thoughts on this before placing any orders. Thanks.

**gendry** · 10-04-2013 12:49 PM

I am in same boat, so whatever you end up doing, please report back and consider a lil DIY guide for the rest of us followers.

If you put two 4 ohm subs in series, your amp will see the same thing as a 8 ohm sub and produce the same current - so from your amp's perspective I assume it would be okay. That said, each sub will only get half the voltage drop a single sub would get, so the subs might act as if you had cut the gain on your amp in half (i.e., they may be very quiet or simply not drive). So I would look to enhance the system a different way. But maybe someone with more exp in this area can correct me or give you a better answer...

Originally Posted by diegom305

Quick question, i am planning to change just the SUB, i am thinking on putting a dual coil 4 ohm subwoofer, connect the coils in series so they are 1 8ohm sub. i am not thinking on adding an amp.

Question for you here is. is it better to go with a 8ohm sub or my idea of going with a dual coil 4ohm sub will work? planning to go with Rockford Fosgate R2 Ultra Shallow 10-Inch 4 Ohm DVC Subwoofer http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R2SD...-R2SD4-10.html because of the type of sub. Not looking to break my car with the sub, i am just looking to have a better bass sound than my nearly silent B&O subwoofer. i feel better bass sound on my front doors than the 1 coming from the back.... used to have sums and amps in my previous cars but here i dont want the headache, just planning to dynomat and change the sub. Please let me know your thoughts on this before placing any orders. Thanks.

**diegom305** · 10-04-2013 02:01 PM

Originally Posted by gendry

I am in same boat, so whatever you end up doing, please report back and consider a lil DIY guide for the rest of us followers.

Just called my old car audio installer from venezuela, he told me to forget about the shallow design of subwoofers because they are all designed to be inside enclosures, that said. HE told me to go for Kicker Comp D subwoofers. Dual 4ohm coil because they can be easily moved by any amplifier. Which means i dont need to run a bigger amp. i DO NOT want to add an amp and change wires, just want to swap the peace of crap they put as sub in our cars and get just a better kick from it.

here is the link for the sub he recommended.... http://www.kicker.com/CompD dont know when i am ordering but will be soon. just need to be 100% on knowing that this one will be moved by our OEM amp.

Where are the experts here?

**dizzlesizzle** · 10-04-2013 02:19 PM

To be honest u wont get much better sound if you continue to use the factory amp...just not enough power going to the sub IMO. I tried, maybe it was the sub I was using i dunno. Your best best is to disconnect the factory sub and use a LOC and get an aftermarket amp.

**diegom305** · 10-04-2013 02:24 PM

Originally Posted by dizzlesizzle

To be honest u wont get much better sound if you continue to use the factory amp...just not enough power going to the sub IMO. I tried, maybe it was the sub I was using i dunno. Your best best is to disconnect the factory sub and use a LOC and get an aftermarket amp.

Thanks but my whole idea is not running wires, disconnecting, reconnecting... I will continue on my research for a lower voltage sub. i am sure must be some out there.

Planning to wait few more responsed before i jump in the pool with the compD series from kicker. Plus i am not looking for a crazy bass, feeling that i have a subwoofer in my car, because the OEM one is like is really not there.

**dizzlesizzle** · 10-04-2013 02:42 PM

Well there's not many wires that need to be run...your battery is in the back, you can pick up a ground on the left side of the trunk, if you have a B8 the whole red fuse row is switchable for your remote and just add two taps to the factory sub wires to a LOC. Will only take 20min max and can be removed and factory amp connected back at anytime.