Official B5 A4 / S4 Headlight and HID Thread

[BlkBullitt]

HOLY CRAP! Awesome write-up man.

From looking at this, it looks like the TSXR lenses really do not do a whole lot for improvement over stock D2S like many had thought. (bummer on the inexpensive mod)

Is there a writeup on retrofitting the Morimoto mini H1's in stock US housings? (I'll STFA later tonight)

I'll have a template up for the brackets you'll have to make to install them.

[BlkBullitt]

I've had the lenses for about a week and I also installed them on my friends S4. While it in pictures it doesn't seem to make a difference, while driving down the road the lights do appear to be better. Now at the same time my old lenses were fairly dirty so it could just be the clean lenses but to me the clean cut off was worth it.

I do agree that they do actually make a difference over the stock lenses. They seem to provide a slightly wider light output along with a sharper and more colorful cutoff. I did also see some cases of increased light output during the test as well. Also, I should note that I did clean all of the parts before the test to make sure they were in the best condition possible.

[BlkBullitt]

curious how the depo d2s headlight would fare... Theoretically should be better than the H7's, right?

I'd imagine they would perform similar to the Euro D2S, however, since I don't have a set I can't be certain. Looking at the US H7s and the DEPO ECode H7s the construction of the rear reflector bowls and cutoff shields are quite different and produce different light output characteristics... so there is a chance that the DEPO D2S units differ from the Valeo D2S units.

[BlkBullitt]

Should have the brackets made for the Morimoto Mini H1s finished either tonight or tomorrow. Expect templates up shortly after (maybe this weekend).

[somebody5788]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XENON-2-5-MI...sories&vxp=mtr

I'm thinking they might be the "blemished" units but that price is awesome.

[BlkBullitt]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XENON-2-5-MI...sories&vxp=mtr

I'm thinking they might be the "blemished" units but that price is awesome.

From the photos they appear to also be older versions... mine have a black cutoff shield and also have a metal covering for the two holes in the cutoff shield plate (by the cutoff shield solenoid).

[vteckiller2000]

FYI I had problems the other day with the cutoff shield actuator sticking and making the cutoff blurry and in the wrong place so I unhooked the solenoid. You may want to check out the forums about modding them to not get stuck if you want to retain the high beam function of the mini's.

[somebody5788]

FYI I had problems the other day with the cutoff shield actuator sticking and making the cutoff blurry and in the wrong place so I unhooked the solenoid. You may want to check out the forums about modding them to not get stuck if you want to retain the high beam function of the mini's.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...moto-Mini-Tips

[vteckiller2000]

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...moto-Mini-Tips

That's the one.

[BlkBullitt]

I've added a few items and have made my first test bracket for the Morimoto Minis. Here's a quick pic of it in a test headlight housing I have...



After I verify that the projector is aligned properly I'll post a template.

[BlkBullitt]

See Page 1 for Group Buy Info

[somebody5788]

2x Genuine Morimoto Mini H1 4.1 bi-xenon projectors w/ clear lenses (Low & High Beams)
2x Morimoto 3Five Digital Ballasts
1x Ballast test lead
2x Morimoto 3Five H1 HID Lamps
2x Shrouds/bezels of your choice
2x Shroud Centric rings (not incl. w/ Mini Gatling)
2x metallic BIXENON bezel emblems
2x Alcohol prep pads for the HID bulbs
1x Plug n Play Bi-xenon Relay Harness
1x TheRetrofitSource.com decal
5-year worry free replacement warranty
]

This doesn't seem to be an ideal setup for the S4. Maybe for the A4 but the S4 guys simply need the projector, adapter plate, H1 bulbs, D2S to AMP adapter harness.

Things not needed: Shroud's and rings, PnP harness, Ballasts, test lead's

Fact is just the MH1's alone for $120+ $25 for the H1 bulbs is a better deal, maybe a group buy for that and get the AMP/D2S adapter in place of the shrouds?

[kbjy11]

I've added a few items and have made my first test bracket for the Morimoto Minis. Here's a quick pic of it in a test headlight housing I have...

After I verify that the projector is aligned properly I'll post a template.

Patiently waiting... :)

Some post-install pics of the actual cutoff would be great also!

Did you need to use the supplied shroud from TRS?

[BlkBullitt]

This doesn't seem to be an ideal setup for the S4. Maybe for the A4 but the S4 guys simply need the projector, adapter plate, H1 bulbs, D2S to AMP adapter harness.

Things not needed: Shroud's and rings, PnP harness, Ballasts, test lead's

Fact is just the MH1's alone for $120+ $25 for the H1 bulbs is a better deal, maybe a group buy for that and get the AMP/D2S adapter in place of the shrouds?

If you just are interested in projectors, bulbs, and wiring adaptors just let me know in the email/PM that you are a S4 owner and I'll see what they'll do in terms of a discount... assuming there are enough people interested.

[BlkBullitt]

Patiently waiting... :)

Some post-install pics of the actual cutoff would be great also!

Did you need to use the supplied shroud from TRS?

No, not at all... you really just need the projector, bulbs, and D2S to AMP adaptor if you're currently running OEM Xenons.

[somebody5788]

If you just are interested in projectors, bulbs, and wiring adaptors just let me know in the email/PM that you are a S4 owner and I'll see what they'll do in terms of a discount... assuming there are enough people interested.

Any special pricing for this in the group buy?

[BlkBullitt]

Any special pricing for this in the group buy?

If there are enough people interested yes... exactly how much will depend on how many people are interested. I'll let you know on pricing as soon as I have more details.

[Dutchsider]

Mark me down for kit 2.

I have OEM Ecode D2S lights but the bi-xenon option and sharper cutoff have me sold.

[BlkBullitt]

Mark me down for kit 2.

I have OEM Ecode D2S lights but the bi-xenon option and sharper cutoff have me sold.

I've got you down. PM me your email address if you would so I can keep you updated.

[Gaki]

so if I want to just retrofit my OEM US S4 housings, could I get away with kit number 2? Thanks for all your hard work on this, I've been dying to crack open my lights and swap the oem junk out.

[BlkBullitt]

so if I want to just retrofit my OEM US S4 housings, could I get away with kit number 2? Thanks for all your hard work on this, I've been dying to crack open my lights and swap the oem junk out.

Yes, you'd need kit #2.

[kbjy11]

updates? :)

[BlkBullitt]

I'm testing the bracket right now in my car. I installed the Morimoto Mini H1 last night in one of my headlights (using the bracket I've created and utilizing a stock Valeo 35w ballast). Headlight remained aligned correctly and the cutoff is level. I wanted to test the bracket a bit before posting any recommendations. I wanted to heat test the bracket (I'm using Lexan which can handle temps of 270+F... which should be fine for this application with a 35w ballast, however, again I want to be positive before posting) and since my commute is around an hour one way and I typically have my headlights on the entire time which should be a good heat test. Planning on pulling the headlight tonight when I get home to inspect everything. Assuming there are no problems I'll draft up a template and post it.

Comparing the Morimoto Mini H1 with the Valeo 35w ballast in one of my headlights to the other which is currently running a D2S projector with the TRS TSX-R lens, an Osram D2S bulb, and a DDM 55w ballast both appear to be of similar brightness with the Morimoto having better and more even light output (the other unit is bright primarily in the center near the cutoff). I'm pretty impressed that the Morimoto at 35w is running as good or better as a stock projector with the TSX-R lens and a 55w ballast. I'll give more feedback after my drive home as it will be darker and hopefully the difference between the two will be more apparent.

[udcc11]

Did you have a chance to test out the Bi-xenon functions?

[BlkBullitt]

Did you have a chance to test out the Bi-xenon functions?

I haven't wired up the Bi-Xenon yet. If I have time I'll try it out tonight.

[BlkBullitt]

I've updated the group buy info with pricing for both kits. PM / email me if interested. We need 25 people to do the group buy for Kit 1. We need 10 people to do the group buy for Kit 2.

[Austonwerner4]

My problem is that my low beams are aimed straight down. I didn't know until afterwards but I turned the white knobs not knowing VAG had to be hooked up. What are my options because if I buy kit 2 they'll still be aimed down

What info is there on the high beams

Also are the brackets done, and how hard are they to make?

[somebody5788]

My problem is that my low beams are aimed straight down. I didn't know until afterwards but I turned the white knobs not knowing VAG had to be hooked up. What are my options because if I buy kit 2 they'll still be aimed down

What info is there on the high beams

Also are the brackets done, and how hard are they to make?

I've read this but when I look inside the headlight there is not a single logical reason that adjusting them that way could possibly harm them.

[BlkBullitt]

My problem is that my low beams are aimed straight down. I didn't know until afterwards but I turned the white knobs not knowing VAG had to be hooked up. What are my options because if I buy kit 2 they'll still be aimed down

What info is there on the high beams

Also are the brackets done, and how hard are they to make?

Have you checked the auto level sensors on the front and rear of the car as discussed in this thread? - http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...hout-a-Vag-com

If you own or have access to a laptop I'd suggest just buying a cheap eBay USB to OBD2 cable and download the free version of Vagcom so that you can properly aim the lights.

Brackets are being tested by me right now. If I don't encounter any issues yes they are easy and cheap to make. All you'll need is a small sheet of Lexan, a drill and a dremel (or some other sort of cutting tool).

[BlkBullitt]

I've read this but when I look inside the headlight there is not a single logical reason that adjusting them that way could possibly harm them.

The only way I could see them being damaged is if you manually have them adjusted up as far as they can go (which will place stress on the adjusters inside the headlight) and then the auto level motor tries to lowers them as far as it can (placing more stress on the adjusters)... all of the stress can cause the internal adjusters to break and if that doesn't all of the vibrations, shaking, etc. from driving could.

[Austonwerner4]

I have a cheap cable and computer. Could you tell me how to adjust them using it?

Also what info is there on the high beams. Do the stock ones stay?

[somebody5788]

I have a cheap cable and computer. Could you tell me how to adjust them using it?

Also what info is there on the high beams. Do the stock ones stay?

All the info is on the ross-tech.com website.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/car...alignment.html

Anytime you have a question about how to do something in the ECU search there first. I do it like this http://lmgtfy.com/?q=headlamp+adjust...Aross-tech.com

[BlkBullitt]

I have a cheap cable and computer. Could you tell me how to adjust them using it?

Also what info is there on the high beams. Do the stock ones stay?

Sure, follow these directions for adjusting them with VAGCOM - http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/car...alignment.html

The projectors come with with a 9006 pigtail for wiring up the Bi-Xenon feature. You can do 1 of 3 things for highbeams...

1. Don't do anything (just tuck the wiring to the solenoid on the projector off to the side)... this retains your stock H7 highbeams
2. Cut the H7 connector off of your headlight wiring harness and solder in the 9006 pigtail provided with the projectors... this eliminates your stock H7 highbeams and replaces it with the Bi-Xenon functionality of the projectors
3. Tap the 9006 pigtail into the wires leading to the H7 connector on your headlight wiring harness... this retains your stock H7 highbeams, but also adds the Bi-Xenon functionality of the projectors

Now you can do options 2 and 3 in a variety of ways... buying wiring adaptors, soldering, crimp/tap connectors, etc... which is your choice if you choose to do so.

[somebody5788]

Sure, follow these directions for adjusting them with VAGCOM - http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/car...alignment.html

The projectors come with with a 9006 pigtail for wiring up the Bi-Xenon feature. You can do 1 of 3 things for highbeams...

1. Don't do anything (just tuck the wiring to the solenoid on the projector off to the side)... this retains your stock H7 highbeams
2. Cut the H7 connector off of your headlight wiring harness and solder in the 9006 pigtail provided with the projectors... this eliminates your stock H7 highbeams and replaces it with the Bi-Xenon functionality of the projectors
3. Tap the 9006 pigtail into the wires leading to the H7 connector on your headlight wiring harness... this retains your stock H7 highbeams, but also adds the Bi-Xenon functionality of the projectors

Now you can do options 2 and 3 in a variety of ways... buying wiring adaptors, soldering, crimp/tap connectors, etc... which is your choice if you choose to do so.

I'd suggest just putting spade connectors on the bi xenon solenoid and plugging right into the H7 connector from the high beam. Then put yellow colored bulbs in the high beams just for looks hahaha. At least that's how I'd do it hehe

[udcc11]

I planned on doing number three with crimp/tab connectors so it can be returned to stock. Deer are everywhere here and I drive on 2 lanes roads at night a lot. Bi-Xenon with brights seems like an amazing thing to me.

[BlkBullitt]

I'd suggest just putting spade connectors on the bi xenon solenoid and plugging right into the H7 connector from the high beam. Then put yellow colored bulbs in the high beams just for looks hahaha. At least that's how I'd do it hehe

I'm planning on making an adaptor to use both the H7s and the Bi-Xenon... basically spade connectors with two wires... one set to the 9006 connector and the other to a female H7 connector.

[Gaki]

sign me up for kit 2

[Dutchsider]

I planned on doing number three with crimp/tab connectors so it can be returned to stock. Deer are everywhere here and I drive on 2 lanes roads at night a lot. Bi-Xenon with brights seems like an amazing thing to me.

this option is what truely attracted me to this kit. I've never been able to get my highbeams aligned properly so I barely use them. Having the option of a nice bright, full bi-xenon beam along with the H7 highs will be awesome on dark back roads.

[Korben007]

Is that template almost ready?

[BlkBullitt]

Is that template almost ready?

Yes, and sorry it has taken a while (a sick 4 month old makes getting anything done hard). I'll be posting info shortly.

For anyone who had questions about the Bi-Xenon feature. I've got mine wired up and it works very well. I did encounter an issue though with the high beams not returning to low beams... currently the only way to get them to return is to turn off my headlights and then turn them back on). I'm discussing this with TRS to see if they've encountered this before. Will keep you all updated.