2012 Monsoongrau PP Kandiru

[Kandiru]

Now, in addition to backlight and horn, i have full MFC, hooray!
Still with "AIR
BAG" on speedo and "Parking Brake Failure" center top.


yycools many thanks for this photo, guys ignore the connector,
i reused the S4 one, the bumpy orange springloaded clip is replaced
by a flat green snappy one:


S4 Steering Wheel 12-pin Yellow Connector:
===================

1. Horn ground. Connector rests on the body of horn, united in the harness
with pin #3 on flat black MFC 6-pin connector.
2. Horn (wire rests on depresible disc)
3. R wire on Green connector
4. L wire on Green connector
5. R wire on Orange connector
6. L wire on Orange connector
7. Empty
8. Flat black 6-pin MFC Pin #2
9 Flat black 6-pin MFC Pin #1
BTW above connector's steering wheel female is blank at pos. 4-6 in both S4
and R8 steering wheel.

10-12 hook to pins 4-6 onto the MFC male, but blank on the female
steering wheel side, so no function.



TT Airbag pinout to S4 12-pin, thx God for the RS multimeter's
continuity function and patience:
=============
1. Brown, horn and airbag ground, joins pin #3 on MFC)
Note here that the TT Airbags #8J0 880 201 J(or K, or L) 6PS have two
ground plugs on the body of the airbag:

2. Yellow (horn)
3. Green (R pin on the Green aibag connector)
4. Black (L .................................................. ....)
5. White (R pin on the Orange airbag connector)
6. Blue (L................................................ ............)
7. Empty
8 Red (MFC Pin 2)
9 Purple (MFC Pin 1)

So the car is super fun to drive, but potentially trouble without airbag.
Please give me some more ideas guys, shall i get a new airbag or repin it?

Some ideas:

1. Short in 12-pin connector, will check for it. After all, even with a decent terminal
connector tool i still beat the xxx out of it.

2. If none, looking at the pinout photo, i will try to swap 3 and 4, and 5 and 6. Maibe,
just maibe i did the pins for the Green (3,4) and Orange (5,6) in reverse, after
all pins are read from L to R and i did it the other way.

3. Poor connection at clockspring.

LMFAO this mod is driving me insane:)

[dreaddontdie]

Hey now!

Lol

[forza1976]

Question for the OP or for the group. Why are the MMI controls on the center console above the HVAC controls while my 2011 has them down behind the shifter? Just a curiosity I have seening the pictures.

BTW, Kandiru you have a very nice car!

[primetime]

Question for the OP or for the group. Why are the MMI controls on the center console above the HVAC controls while my 2011 has them down behind the shifter? Just a curiosity I have seening the pictures.

BTW, Kandiru you have a very nice car!

Matt, That is where they are located on non-nav cars... Ron

[forza1976]

Ah, got it.. Thanks Ron... Paddles come today ;) Can't wait my friend!

[Kandiru]

Thx for compliments!

Ordered a BNIB bag with tags and codes, and ordered VAG-COM so i can
code it if need be, failed miserably with 2 different ebay clones. That VAG
xxxx is $$$.

No more mods until i overcome this obstacle.

Steering wheel tip:

Don't fool with adjusting the steering wheel by moving around the position marker
if the car is pulling after new install. Watch the clockspring under it, the interior edge
of the 12-pin male connector's clockspring housing should be perfectly parallel with
the metal edge of the wheel's accomodating opening. Align them before you tighten
the T55 bolt and you are good to go.

Audienthusiasts install mod suggestion:

Where he keeps talking about turning the wheel during the install, that is not possible
once you disconnected the battery. I just start by aligning the airbag screws with the
notches and leave it there.

Signing off, going on vacation for a week, i need to drink this problem out of my head
so i can start fresh when i come back:)

[Kandiru]

A small deviation, need paint for parking sensors:
************************************************** *************************************
Monsungrau 0C0C Audi Paint Chart, from Ruth Chen in HK, show this to a paint store or body shop with a mixing machine and they will know what to do, he is missing a pigment, otherwise his 400ml $40 spray cans are great:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...=0&output=html

************************************************** ******************************************-


Got the new airbag, same problems. Redid the connectors, stuffed some wire insulation
into the pit for the purple retainer to tighten connections a bit (no way it would fit in again
after the pin pusher rape it took earlier), checked everything again.

Posted the VCDS readout on the vagcom discussion at AudiWorld, hopefully Sebastian can
give me some ideas:

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthre...6#post24186106

Fortunately the ABS and Parking Brake faults list the Airbag as culprit, dunno what to do, do
i need a new module or just a recode? The intermittent contact fault is gone after the replug.

[Kandiru]

Kandiru vs. Airbag 1:0!!!

OK, airbag igniter #1 and 2 at module 15 showed "resistance too high", and reading a lot about this fault, and out of desperation i took the airbag off again and did a "tuneup" on my pin reinstall job, painstakingly cleaning every pin on the clockspring and MMI connectors using wire insulation dipped in alcohol then used a small drill to enlarge the diameter of the yellow 12-pin connector openings just a bit, then rubbed inside the females (yum) with alcohol then very little rosin. The pin extraction business is a messy job, even with VAG specific tools, as the micro molex females have a spine to snap into the middle groove and permanently rest there, extraction breaks this spine off, and you can see by the spines on the purple retaining pin that the assembly is meant to be permanent.

I then did reattach, but alas, still codes. After i bathed the 3 kids, went back with the VAG.com, did VCDS with fault deletion four times, with each sequential sweep off went the airbag error, followed by the parking brake, lastly a third sweep killed the ABS error.

$$$ well deserved to Ross-Tech, knowing also all the little additions that will follow.

My advice to DYI airbag upgraders: DO NOT MESS WITH THE YELLOW 12-PIN CONNECTOR! Instead, transplant the S4 OEM # 8K0 971 589 G harness (buy an extra one off ebay.de in advance) reverse the MMI 1 and 2 pins on the black connector and build a Y connector for the the 2 ground plugs on the round airbag. The reason, even variances in contact surface can induce changes in resistance (too high), which in turn will induce Airbag and Parking Brake Failure MILs, loss of parking brake automatic disengagement (very bad for hill starts), and ABS fault.

To recap, parts used:

1. R8 V10 wheel: 420 419 091 B TNA
2. TT Round airbag with silver ring around the 4 rings: 8J0 880 201 L 6PS
3. OEM S4 harness: 8K0 971 589 G
4. OEM S4 12-pin connector: 4H0 972 208 F

The STE95978 terminal connector and the OTC5900A
Torx master kits were very useful, high quality stuff too.

[Kandiru]

OK, time to move on with the mods.

RS4 Pedals & Dead Pedal Cover
======================


Tools: Aquaseal silicone grease spray (from diving supply shop), bone tool, small screwdriver,
heat gun, small wood screw with large washer, flat nose pliers.

Procedure: OMFG, a 50k car without an accelerator pedal cover, you bet, thanks Audi! I
put the cover on with minimal fuss. The brake pedal took a spraying with silicone grease
and became very compliant after that. Some cussin' and the bone tool, 5 min done.

The clutch whole another story, it took the heat gun at 300F for about 5 mins to
soften it into submission then grease it until it dripped and smoked. I worked the foot guard
side, then bottom, then right side, prying it in with the bone tool. Top kept coming off until i
started actually using my head and took a tiny C-clamp and tightened it over the bottom so
it won't snap off while i lifted the top, no more pain, top went in suddenly. Aouch! my right
elbow hurts (that carpet is really rough), i can't feel my fingertips.

Dead pedal, too little time left, want it done. Solution, removed the metal cover with rubber
off the RS4 baseplate, bent the top and right side retaining clips flat with the body, then bent the left
clip at 90 degs, and marked its position on the S4 plastic footrest after i had bent the bottom
clips to about 60 degs and inserted them under the bottom end of the S4 footrest. Fired up
the butane torch and overheated a flathead screwdriver's head and it went like butter through
the S4 footrest to recreate the hole on the RS4 base. Then proceeded to insert the bottom
clips under the S4 footrest (forcibly i might add, as they bend as the RS4 plate flattens), then
as it approached the base inserted the 90 deg left clip into the hole i made earlier, no chance it
will slide medially off the base now. Then pushed upward and laterally with all i had on the RS4
plate to mark a point at 10 o'clock on the egde of the large top hole for a small wood screw, which
i mated with a large washer, then screwed into the S4 footrest, this way it naturally pulls the plate
up and laterally No wiggle, tight like factory made (for now).

Voila, sorry for dirty interior, old habits die hard: