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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Another EC Intercooler review - with IAT log data & pics (LONG)

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    Hi everyone,

    Weeks ago, I posted a thread asking if an intercooler upgrade would be beneficial to everyday driving, as opposed to track (or just dyno) use…

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...AT-logs-inside...

    This involved about 30 min of driving with one 0-60+ WOT acceleration run in the middle. After some of the comments in that thread, I decided to go ahead with the Eurocode unit (during the group buy). Now that I have about a week of log data (in addition to the data logged before the install), I thought I’d share my findings with the group. Warning, though – this is kind of long and I'm bound to have some typos or something cut-paste wrong …

    First – a little background – from the write-ups and EC’s description of the unit I was hoping for the following.

    1) Better power early in the rev range due to the turbo outlet adapter and overall increased diameter plumbing from the turbo to the intake manifold.
    2) Lower IAT during WOT runs – esp at high RPM.
    3) Better resistance to “heat soak” or at least what I considered to be heat soak – rising IAT vs. time I’d observed in my logs.

    #3 was up there in priority for me as a couple of times being stuck in traffic and/or driving in parking lot traffic jams, I’d finally get a little gap in traffic and want to “shoot the gap”, and then experienced a below normal amount of power. Thought high IAT due to low speed, hot asphalt, and AC use might be the culprit… I considered a water/meth system but it seemed to me that this would need to be spraying constantly to prevent this issue (at a very low level) and that could lead to use of a lot of meth, and one vendor of W/M systems discouraged this type of use.

    I've got a ton of detail below, but after typing it it may be too long - so I'll summarize here and invite you to read on for the full story. Did it achieve the 3 goals.

    1) Yes - feels a little snappier.
    2) Yes - ~17 deg reduction for a 2nd gear pull
    3) No

    Anyway – let’s get to the install and hardware impressions before the results :

    1) Unpacked the unit and was immediately impressed with the quality of the parts. Everything looked top notch, and the machined mounting bracket with the EC name on it is pretty cool, the T-bolt clamps and silicone adapters are high quality. Having the Eurocode name on all the parts is a nice touch.
    2) Install instructions were very good. There were a few very minor issues (i.e. some bolts referred to as 10mm during removal were referred to as 13mm during replacement, etc) in the writeup that I gave EC feedback to fix most of these so hopefully the next rev will be better but they really didn't make anything unclear. I’ve never had my bumper off and was able to follow the directions and get everything installed without issue. The only thing I suggested EC to do of any significance was to indicate which end of the intake manifold pipe was which – it's close enough to symmetrical that it fit both ways, but one way is better. I tried both ways just to check before settling on the right config - just would have been nice to not have to try both ways...
    3) As several others have said, the T-bolt clamps are very much on the tight side – maybe the 90F+ weather and Houston humidity when I installed them made things worse, but I wasn’t able to keep the clamps assembled and slide them over the silicone adapters. I ended up having to take the nut completely off, wrap the clamp around and place it, put the nut back on and tighten. Sometimes this required use of a set of adjustable jaw pliers (water-pumps) to squeeze the clamp enough to get the nut threaded on – and in a couple of cases I found it was beneficial to bend the T-bolt toward the clamp slightly such that you could get the t-bolt through the other side of the clamp easier. They work and look good – just wish they were maybe 1/8 to ¼” larger and then you could just slide them on… Minor nit.
    4) The instructions don’t say anything about re-using the left/right air guides (see images) – if you do want to re-use them, you will need to cut them to allow the EC piping to pass through – I did that – the amount of cutting isn’t large, but getting it located in the right place is a bit difficult – I suggested it would be nice if EC provided a template for where to cut if you were so inclined.

    So... obligatory install pics. Should have been more, but I was having a good time looking at things and doing the work and sort of forgot to take pics:



    Bumper off, stock unit removed – about to drill the crash bar to install the mounting bracket. Surprised at how little structure (next to none) there is in front of the wheels – the crash bar doesn’t span the width of the car.



    Turbo outlet adapter installed



    IC mounted and modified left/right air guides.



    That EC machined mounting bracket in place…



    “Ding… All done”


    So – what you have been waiting for – results:

    For #1 – I don’t have any logs to prove this, but I feel like the plumbing and turbo outlet, etc. is making the car more snappy – i.e. better torque at lower revs. There also seems to be a little more intake type noise than before – it’s very subtle, but I’m thinking that perhaps the removal of the stock sound box and replacement of rubber hoses with hard aluminum is contributing here. I like both results.

    For #2 – I tried to replicate the drive I did before the install and posted about in the thread mentioned at the top of this diatribe and I think I was very sucessful. Below is a plot of the IAT during the WOT 2nd gear pull for both before and after runs – the EC intercooler is keeping temps flat, where the stock one allowed temps to rise as the RPM’s climbed. Similar result to plots posted by the vendors, different values, but same trend... WOT 2nd gear starts at 1234.5 sec and goes to ~1239 where the EC temp starts down, and the stock flattens out. This is about 16.5 deg difference at the end – or about 2.7% in improved air density.



    Was the ECU pulling timing? From all of my logs, small timing pulls seems to be kind of random and not all that uncommon – even in situations where I wouldn’t expect it – so take this with a big dash of salt… The ECU pulled timing on cyl 4 2.3 deg right at the very end of the stock WOT run but only on cyl 4 despite Cyl 3 seeming to be the sensitive one on my car. For the EC run – Cyl 3 pulled 0.8 deg right after I went WOT in 2nd, but went back to 0 within about 1.5 sec during the WOT run. From the behavior I’ve seen doing logging, I think if I were to repeat this again several times, I could get some without any timing pull, and some with pull for both units – I don’t think these are statistically meaningful – thus I think the only real difference here was the 16.5 deg IAT difference and thus 2.7% increase in air density.

    For #3 – Logged a lot of to/from work commutes as well as this mid-day 95F 30 min drive with the WOT run (see mentioned thread for description) – and unfortunately I saw little to no impact on the steadily increasing IAT vs. time – both of these end up near 130F at the end of the drive and more or less track the same trend except for some minor differences due to stop light timing, etc.



    I can't say that the EC unit wouldn't recover quicker if they were even more heat soaked - but the 30 min drive I did do - right before the 0-60 hard acceleration run - both units were virtually identical IAT's and the drop from 125F as I started rolling was very similar.

    So… overall thoughts :

    It’s a very high quality product – everything about dealing with EC has been first rate. I feel like the turbo outlet/piping is helping the responsiveness of the car, and while the IC does keep temps down during WOT runs and high boost – it’s a slight advantage unless you are doing multiple 0-100 type pulls or perhaps tracking the car. In my daily driving, this unit didn’t really help keep the increase of IAT vs. time down like I hoped it would, i.e. what I called "heat soak".

    In terms of bang for buck – I hate to say I’d have a hard time justifying this upgrade. Your mileage may vary if you drive your car harder than I do. In my logging, I was surprised to find that even during my normal daily commutes, I usually get a couple of 1+ sec WOT runs during acceleration from stoplights to my 45 and 55 mph speed limit stretches, but since these are short bursts and the IC doesn't seem to be helping keep the overall IAT down vs. the stock unit vs. time, I’m not really seeing more than a few percent increase in power during those WOT runs.

    So a summary :

    Top notch quality and the larger piping+turbo outlet adapter help with throttle response, etc. Keeps IAT's down during WOT and high boost. For my daily driving, I'm not seeing very much IAT benefit from the upgraded IC.

    Sorry about the length – hope it was worth it to you who took the time to read the whole thing. Be glad to answer any questions anyone has…

    Jim
    Last edited by B8_Jim; 07-08-2017 at 03:17 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings inNout's Avatar
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    Thank you for the very detailed and well-written review.
    2010 B8 2.0T 6spd K04 + [HPA Motorsport, Rays, APR, Eisenmann, Bastuck, Eurocode, KW, OSIR, StopTech, ArmaSpeed]

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings fredjones's Avatar
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    I appreciate the time and effort to do that. What type of ECU tune do you have B8_Jim?
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings dracolnyte's Avatar
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    very useful review, i'll keep that in mind thanks
    2010 A4 quattro, Tiptronic, Ibis White

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings UmIsThisThingOn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fredjones View Post
    I appreciate the time and effort to do that. What type of ECU tune do you have B8_Jim?
    I was going to ask the same question, as he didn't state if he did/didn't have one.
    I am looking to get more (cooler) air in to the engine faster as well as get the exhaust gasses out more efficiently, so I made the leap. I'm glad to hear that the turbo spools a bit earlier/faster.
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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by fredjones View Post
    I appreciate the time and effort to do that. What type of ECU tune do you have B8_Jim?
    APR Stg 1 93.
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  7. #7
    Account Terminated Four Rings
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    Jim, how about this beautiful IC+WMI? I have seen 30-40F below ambient IATs in the 100F+ temperature here in Toronto.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings eboosted's Avatar
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    When I installed the FMIC 6 months ago, I increased timing between 4.5-6 degrees from 4k till readline, no timing pull was detected before this, at 7.5° I started to see 1.5-3 degrees of timing retard. AFR was leaned a little bit until EGTs started to raise again, it was controlled due lower intake temps in the higher gears.

    Car pulls very hard now at higher revs till redline, now I just need to flash the DSG gearbox to tune torque limitor.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    I put in the same intercooler a week ago. Now I don't understand all the tech data and talk and this my have been said in the review but I have seen a increase in boost according to my gauge. It runs about 14/15 psi and it can hold 14 for much longer then stock running at 13psi.
    AEM Boost Gauge * Eurocode FMIC * JHM Shiftier * AMR Tune

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings eboosted's Avatar
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    There should not be any difference in boost at all, FMIC should only reduce intake temps allowing more timing advance.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    That's what I was told. I don't understand why the boost would of gone up if anything it should of went down. Is there anything that can cause a increase besides a flash?
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings ItsDubC's Avatar
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    Always a pleasure to read your stuff, Jim. Thanks again for the detailed data logging and honest review. I wonder how significant the changes will be during the winter time as a result of the upgrade.

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  13. #13
    Stage 3 Forum Advertiser Four Rings David@EuroCode's Avatar
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    Jim,

    Thank you for the write up and the kind words about our product. An amazing amount of time and effort was put into gathering the data by you, so my hats off.

    We are in the process of gathering some more info from Jim to be able to evaluate the data posted here a little closer.

    A few quick notes about the data represented here. The temp data in the first graph only represents 25 seconds of information. The second graph shows the Eurocode intercoooler with temps higher than stock at points in the graph, which is highly improbable, unless the ambient temps were either much higher or that data is inconsistant.


    "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough."
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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by David@EuroCode View Post
    Jim,

    Thank you for the write up and the kind words about our product. An amazing amount of time and effort was put into gathering the data by you, so my hats off.

    We are in the process of gathering some more info from Jim to be able to evaluate the data posted here a little closer.

    A few quick notes about the data represented here. The temp data in the first graph only represents 25 seconds of information. The second graph shows the Eurocode intercoooler with temps higher than stock at points in the graph, which is highly improbable, unless the ambient temps were either much higher or that data is inconsistant.
    Any take on why a increase in boost?
    AEM Boost Gauge * Eurocode FMIC * JHM Shiftier * AMR Tune

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by David@EuroCode View Post

    A few quick notes about the data represented here. The temp data in the first graph only represents 25 seconds of information.
    Right - the 25 sec where I started from a stop and accelerated through 1st and went WOT in 2nd gear until I got close to about 6500 rpm. This was very similar with the EC and stock unit (same road, same place, etc) and since beginning IAT's were the same and the external temp was very close (within 1 deg) I thought this was a good comparison point. The pull in 2nd gear shows the EC unit keeping IAT's down vs. the stock unit.

    The second graph shows the Eurocode intercoooler with temps higher than stock at points in the graph, which is highly improbable, unless the ambient temps were either much higher or that data is inconsistant.
    The ambient temps were not much higher - they were very close to each other in the two cases - in fact for the stock run my temp sensor reported 95F, and for the EC run it reported 94F and at one time 93, which I was surprised at given how hot it felt. The spike in the middle of the graph is when the car was parked (ignition off) in my garage. The run with the EC intercooler sat there longer than the stock run (several minutes longer) so the initial IAT was higher than stock but it seemed to recover to below stock values during the drive... The spike around 1400 was while sitting at a stoplight (it's insanely long - 2.5 min per cycle) - there is a similar on in the stock curve around 1600 sec, but I wasn't stuck there as long, and the IAT's didn't climb as high.

    Let me know if you want/need additional data or information.

    As I said in my review - everything about dealing with Eurocode has been first rate as evidenced by them working with me now to try to make sense of the mound of data I dumped on them :)
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  16. #16
    Senior Member Two Rings Stuck'ite's Avatar
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    Bottom line is there is only 1 kind of intercooler that can fight heat soak at low speed in stop and go traffic, and I use to run one on my Galant. It is an air/liquid intercooler. Some use ice water (drag racers), mine use the A/C to cool a liquid that then was pumped from a tank to the liquid/air heat exchanger to cool the intake air. Basically my intake air blew across a heat exchanger that was about the temp of my A/C heat exchanger, COLD!. It works VERY well but was VERY complicated to make work and very heavy, relative to an air/air setup like the Eurocode.

    Bottom line on my liquid/air intercooler, LOVED how it performed, but will never do another one. Way to complicated.
    Last edited by Stuck'ite; 01-23-2012 at 08:23 PM.
    2011 Ibis Ti, Prem+ Pwr Mods: APR K04 V2, APR Full Exhaust, Carbino, dyno corrected 248BHP-376 lb/ft @ Stg 2, EuroCode(EC) FMIC, EC Rotomas, 343 CatchCan, Okada Coils, APR BT Dongle Handling Mods: Bilstein PSS10, SPC Control Arms, EC Sways/Links, StopTech ST-60 380mm & Sport Rear Brakes, stock Ti 19x8.5 et43 (28lbs), BFI Spacers 5/10 (eff et38/et33), Mich PSS 255/35/19, Other Mods: P3Cars Gauge, Curt hitch, AL E-Code Headlights, HID Fogs

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings The Infiltrator's Avatar
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    I didn't get instructions! :(
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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Infiltrator View Post
    I didn't get instructions! :(
    http://www.ecodetuning.com/Pictures/...ide/B8FMIC.pdf
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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings 1RAudiSQ5's Avatar
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    Jim... Thanks for this write up. I was wondering if it would be worth it to spend that much on a FMIC vs and exhaust for my Daily driver.
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings eboosted's Avatar
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    On my daily drive my FMIC works awesome, my intake temps are always below 35C at nights its a blast

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings Highlander1010's Avatar
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    Awesome Jim! Thanks for the write up.

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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by WantaA4 View Post
    Jim... Thanks for this write up. I was wondering if it would be worth it to spend that much on a FMIC vs and exhaust for my Daily driver.
    Quote Originally Posted by Highlander1010 View Post
    Awesome Jim! Thanks for the write up.
    You're welcome - that was my intent was to give back to the community - I've gained a ton of useful data here.

    Quote Originally Posted by eboosted View Post
    On my daily drive my FMIC works awesome, my intake temps are always below 35C at nights its a blast
    Your experience seems to differ a bit from mine - I'd asked Eurocode about what might be causing my high heat-soak like effects - wondering if maybe my cooling fan wasn't operating as it should/etc or perhaps my IAT sensor (right at the top of the intake manifold) is not in the flow at idle and is seeing temps rise just due to "underhood" temps climbing - or maybe a combination of both. Eurocode was going to do some logging on a stock car and one with the FMIC side by side and get back to me, but I never did hear anything.

    I'm tempted to take my hood off once summer comes and take a test drive to see if IAT's climb while sitting at traffic lights or at slow speeds like it currently shows, but not sure that would be useful.
    2013 6MT S5 - Monsoon/Black
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  23. #23
    Stage 3 Forum Advertiser Four Rings Info@EuroCode's Avatar
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    AITs will always climb while sitting in traffic or at an idle, there is no airflow going across the intercooler core to dissipate the heat that is transfered to the fins. Once the vehicle begins to move the intercooler tempes will recover nearly instantly. It neally does not have anything to do with the underhood temps but rather just the thermal transfer.


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  24. #24
    Senior Member Three Rings Nison_Li's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Info@EuroCode View Post
    AITs will always climb while sitting in traffic or at an idle, there is no airflow going across the intercooler core to dissipate the heat that is transfered to the fins. Once the vehicle begins to move the intercooler tempes will recover nearly instantly. It neally does not have anything to do with the underhood temps but rather just the thermal transfer.
    don't we have 2 fans sucking air through the IC?
    2015 Q5 3.0T S-line Premium Plus
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  25. #25
    Stage 3 Forum Advertiser Four Rings David@EuroCode's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nison_Li View Post
    don't we have 2 fans sucking air through the IC?
    The first fan is not always running unless you reach a specific temp. The second fan is activated when the AC is turned on, but also comes on when the car is overheating excessively. Neither fan is activated based on the air intake temperature.


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  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by David@EuroCode View Post
    The first fan is not always running unless you reach a specific temp. The second fan is activated when the AC is turned on, but also comes on when the car is overheating excessively. Neither fan is activated based on the air intake temperature.
    David - the first fan - do you know if the fist fan is tied to coolant temp? outside temp? a combination of 45 factors? :)

    I wasn't able to make much sense out of the fan drive duty cycle logs vs. temperatures - of course pretty much all of my logging last summer was hot enough that the AC was always on - maybe the two interact?

    Wish there was an easy way to lower the threshold for these fans to turn on in VCDS....
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