DIY - Suspension Removal and Install Redux - Tips, Tricks and a Gripload of Pics

**a4darkness** · 04-07-2011 10:21 PM

Swapping the suspension in our cars is a somewhat complicated process. But that level of complication drops measurably with both the right tools and knowledge of how to make this happen. That said, I set out to improve upon two very widely used and effective writeups by Capt Obvious and Martini. My goal was a comprehensive, visual, step-by-step DIY suspension swap that one person could accomplish without the use of air tools.

Before we go any further, some are likely wondering how difficult this is. I'd consider myself somewhat mechanically inclined but have only done a full suspension swap once and pulled the F/R shocks twice for adjustments. But the first time I was basically assisting my buddy who can tear an engine apart. Shock adjustments were by myself but I kinda stumbled through those. So this was my first time doing it solo, but had a decent amount of knowledge about how to do so.

Point being, it's not all that difficult… but having the proper tools and technique is critical.

First, credit where it's due. The only reason why I was able to attempt this was b/c of these…

The DIYs

DIY: B6/B7 A4 - Suspension Removal and Install by Capt. Obvious
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...al-and-Install

STaSIS Street Sport/Koni Coilover Suspension Install by Martini
http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...tml&category=2

Pure Motorsport: Working with Upper Strut Nuts
http://www.purems.com/news/?p=15

Tools List (general)

These are three sets I own and would *highly* suggest you purchase as well (if you've not already got something comparable). The Mechanics Tool Set is arguably one of the best mods I've ever done. Of course for this project you'll not need everything in these sets but these represent the core of my equipment. Comical, but effective.

Craftsman 192 pc. Mechanics Tool Set
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...7&blockType=G7

Craftsman 21 pc. Drive Tool Accessory Set (Extensions, Wobbles, Adapters and U-Joints)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...5&blockType=G5

Craftsman Evolv 7-pc. Hex Bit Socket Set Metric
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00910058000P

Tool / Supplies List (specific)

I've attempted to create a comprehensive list of everything I used during this install. This is more of a requirements list.

* jack stands
* two floor jacks (of the non widow maker variety) one of which in the 3-4 ton range
* pry bar
* 2x4 block of wood
* wheel hanger OEM works but it'll be dead soon… buy the Podi
http://podi.ca/Accessories.aspx

Front Shock Upper Bushing aka The Donut (yes, buy these)
http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=1428

Rear Shock (Spring) Bushings (didn't replace these but wanted to)
Upper Spring Plate (Rear suspension - Suspension components - Spring pad) 8E0 512 149 P
Lower Spring Plate (Rear suspension - Suspension components - Spring seat) 8E0 512 297 J

* needle nose pliers
* torque wrench
* utility knife
* tape measure
* good flashlight / lighting
* long ass burly screwdriver
* vice grips
* Allen key driver (optional but very helpful)
* festive blanket to lay upon (also optional)
* magnet tool (magnets… how do they work?)
* Torx 20 bit
* 5mm metric socket bit key

Ratchets
10mm
13mm
16mm
17mm
18mm
19mm
13/16

Wrenches
16mm
18mm
13/16

Go Thru Sockets + Ratchet
16mm
18mm
19mm

21 Piece SAE/Metric Go-Thru Socket Set (yes, you need this… it's cheap, just buy it)
http://www.harborfreight.com/21-piec...set-67974.html

Spring Compressor - Mcpherson Strut Hook Type (usually available at Kragen for ~$60)
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-COMPRESSOR.../dp/B000F5HUZS

Audi VW Control Arm Bolt Kit - 8D0498800KIT from FCP
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...lt-kit-vwgkit1

Preparation

* take your car through a touch-free car wash, specifically one with an undercarriage wash as it'll not only remove a lot of grime but also make it easier to work on stubborn components
* once it's dry, take a leaf blower to wheel wells… and watch all the dirt come out

* in engine bay, remove the rear rubber stripping + rear battery cover + cowling (exposing master cyl)
* move coolant expansion tank (not remove) out of the way using a Torx 20, then pop it free from the rear tabs
* on each side, locate the three main shock tower bolts and find + remove rubber caps from recessed bolt holes (see needle nose pliers, top right of pic below)

* take a ballpark measurement from the edge of your fender to the center cap of your wheel, we'll call this our 'jack-to point' and will be used in order to create the similar pressure / tension on components when torquing them to spec, mine was around 13"

* break front lugs free using OEM jack or 17mm ratchet
* put your car on jack stands, just the front for now
* seeing that many ask about proper jack points, here's a pick of how it's done… helps if you've got a narrow small jack

* remove front lugs (17mm) and insert OEM wheel hanger or the nice one from Podi if you've got it, sadly I didn't then not and this fella is pretty much toast
* yes you need the wheel hanger as you'll be jacking up from the rotor and don't want it moving about

Keep in mind the following steps are written in a very specific order. It's been done to not only save time but more importantly to avoid having to stand on hubs, or remove extra components. Simplicity and efficiency.

And I'm sure it goes w/out saying that this is just how I did it… maybe it'll work for you, maybe not. If there's something you don't agree with or I've made some blundering error, just keep it in perspective and by all means LMK.

Lets swap some suspension.

**a4darkness** · 04-07-2011 10:22 PM

Front

NOTE: I've used pics from both the driver's and pass side so if it switches back and forth, just hold your monitor up to a mirror and everything will appear normal. Except for all the text, you'll need to switch back for that.

ETKA Shock + Components Assembly

* place your jack + wood underneath rotor, just get it safely positioned for now and bring it up a few inches

* carefully disconnect the engine speed sensor (10mm + needle nose to hold it), then just move the arm inwards towards the engine, mind it's location so you don't break it… not cheap

* first, begin with the lower sway bar bolt (16mm + u-joint or rocker if need be)
* jack up the hub so the bolt becomes level with the sway bar
* even when leveled like this, the bolt is under some tension
* when it comes out, don't soil yourself cause it'll made a loud noise and the sway bar link will pop back… don't worry, that's okay

* Now for the wonderful pinch bolt, hopefully yours isn't frozen… my wasn't and I am very fortunate
* jack up the hub so the arm leading to the pinch bolt is level and remove the bolts (13mm on top, 16 front)
* use a pry bar if necessary to help separate the housing + relieve tension on the bolt
* try slowly raising / lowering the hub a bit and using the pry bar to help it come free
* if not, give it a few taps with something and it should release (just not on the rubber bushing)

* when finished put bolts back in loose, mind the small bolt's washer; move the arm out of the way towards the rear of the car

* now the main shock bolt, lower the jack a bit so the lower control arm is somewhat level and get the bolt started (18mm socket and wrench)
* remove the nut and continue to lower jack, all the way if need be, to find happy point to pop the bolt free
* once the nut has been removed, just keep ratcheting and it'll be easy to determine when the tension has been released from the bolt

NOTE: I tired out one of those new fangled ratcheting wrenches (see it above, on the concrete) and it was pretty effective. If you need to pick up specific wrenches for this job, consider trying them out.

* now for the god forsaken retaining washer… look up there and find it
* then grab that big ass screw driver or pry bar… you're gonna need some leverage outside of the wheel well
* jack up the hub and and keep it there to relieve pressure
* use the long screw driver to bend each side of washer down and in, needle nose help too
* no, I would not suggest reinstalling it so feel free to destroy it
* this pic is kinda worthless as the driver is pointing to the retaining washer post, but pretty much hiding it… nice work assclown

EDIT 06/2014

Since more than a few ppl have mentioned this, it should be noted that removal of the Upper Control Arms from the ball joint is the best way to remove the shock tower as indicated below.
You'll likely have to tap on the underside of the UCAs to get them out and then back in (yes, this changes the original DIY but it's a metric ton easier, you'll figure it out... don't worry).
I've swapped my suspension about 8 times and always use this method.
Even if you're in need of swapping your UCAs, do not unbolt the UCAs from the shock tower in the rear.
Regardless, you can do that once the tower is removed. This method is far easier.
Odds are if you're reading this now and they've not been swapped before, they are toast and will need swapping.

END EDIT

* now hop up to tackle the upper engine bay bolts (16mm + extensions)
* be mindful of your engine components when you're doing so
* the hub should still be jacked up to hold tower in place
* start all three but don't remove em… just loosen a bit
* double check to be sure the hub is jacked up enough that the tower is secure against the ceiling of the wheel well
* now remove the three engine bay bolts; mind the washers on bolts

* now slowly let jack out and remove it from under rotor
* keep your eyes on the shock tower as it's gonna come free a bit
* don't worry, it's not gonna pop you in the kisser but just keep a hand near it but it's not going anywhere… yet

* squat down and put both your hands on the upper control arms and using equal pressure, pull a bit downward and towards your chest, or just kind of leeeeean back
* really helps if you're square in front of the shock tower and using your body weight to pull downwards
* use both hands so it comes out straight, mind your fingers
* look at the rubber bushing up top as it will be catching on the retaining washer post
* If need be, carefully work it free with a flat pry bar or the big ass screw driver

NOTE: the purpose of this is better positioning to get to the bolts, not remove the tower so don't hang on it like a jungle gym.

* now move and position the lower part of shock to the lowest point possible
* you did read that part about removing the jack right? I hope so…

* squatting in front of it, grab the tower and lift up and to the back / right of wheel well
* bring it up as far as you can and the lower part of shock will come free from the lower control arm
* now just maneuver the tower back down and then out towards you
* mind the fender… it doesn't like shock towers much

* removing the first one is always tough but great news, the Dacia Sandero is now available, no… wait, oh yeah… the 2nd side is far easier

I would suggest completely swapping one side at a time… so leave the other tower be and continue working on the one you just removed; next comes removal of the OEM pieces from the shock and swapping in the new components… get yourself some work space

**a4darkness** · 04-07-2011 10:22 PM

Towers
* awesome, you got a tower extracted… now what?
* the spring must be compressed enough to allow for the pad between the spring and the silver shock mount to spin around

* position the Mcpherson Compressors on each side of the spring like so
* use 19mm open ended socket / ratchet to torque the the spring together
* again only so much just till the rubber dampener starts spinning
* sounds kinda lame, but try to use the correct sizes for top nuts as the angles are kinda precarious so it's pretty easy for them to break free anyway

Cool thing about that open ended socket set from Harbor is that the ratchet itself is 19mm… quite often I'd switch back and forth between using the wrench, wrench + 19mm socket etc.; very handy little set for this job.

* now for the top nut
* use the 19mm deep open socket (or shallow 19mm socket and vice grip) + 5mm metric socket key

* turn against one another till top nut comes off
* check to see if the silver inner shock tube is moving or not
* if it is, you're not doin it right and need to reposition something
* once you've broken the nut free, it comes off with minimal force… if it comes off at all

The 1st side came off fine but the 2nd side did not… and as I was struggling to get the proper angle and enough leverage it donned on me. I don't need this upper shock mount anymore! So, I cut the inner plastic band within the rubber sections and it popped right off

Ffrom here, it was FAR easier to break the top nut free. Keep in mind, this isn't about brute force, more technique… putting the shock body in a vice would help but if you can't get the open ratchet down far enough to grip the top nut it's kinda pointless. So if you did indeed buy the upper shock mounts, just cut the bastards off.

* now remove the pull components off existing suspension
* mind the washer! this is actually a pretty important element… don't lose it and be sure to keep it safe
* top nut stays on the existing suspension as your new shocks or CO's should have their own

If you're wondering why I keep mentioning the upper shock mount donut, here's why… pretty shocking to see how compressed a bushing with just 75k is when compared to a new one. We're talkin about a 5mm+ height difference.

Spend the extra $50 and buy new bushings (and now that they're installed… yessir, good times); old on the left, new right…

* get the spring compressors on new suspension's spring; odds are its gonna be smaller and tighter (minds out of gutter, we're workin here) than your previous OEM stuff so you need to be a bit more discerning about where they go or it'll make things difficult when you have to remove them (keep in mind, there's about to be a triangular metal plate put on top of them)

* made a nifty little discovery, the packaging in the box with my Vogtlands contained these cardboard pieces that surprisingly made great shock stands; but more so than this, it allows you to set up the shock tower in the manner in which it'll eventually live on the car; so then, this would need to be turned 90 deg so the lower shock fork is opened towards you

* now place the compressed spring on the shock and be sure to throughly size up your opponent… cause if you don't you'll be pullin shock towers to visit this little bastard again right quick; I let em know what was up.

* so then, turn the shock towards you and line up the silver shock housing (flat side away) as it's going to be positioned when on the vehicle; and then most importantly position the spring to match the rubber perch (underside of silver shock topper); when the silver topper is folded down onto the spring, the black rubber guide will match up with the top curl of the spring; see it there at about 2 o'clock?

* and a close-up of of the under-rubber bushing meeting the spring

* now tighten it all together; this should be fairly simple as you've compressed the spring enough for, once again, the bushing on the underside of the silver topper to move around; remember, the washer goes on first, then the donut and nut (see diagram below); here I implored the use of an allen key driver… optional, but handy; what's not shown is the use of a deep 19mm socket that could be used w/the open ratchet and ellen key driver to effectively tighten this down

* Bentely calls for 37ft/lbs… keep in mind that if you can't get a torque wrench on the top nut, which is self locking BTW, you can always set the wrench and see how much force it'll take to tighten something else down before it pops (like lug nuts or something else with a higher rating); then try to use that same amount of force on the top nut; yeah, it's not uber precise but better than nothing

* here's the top nut after tightening it down, tired to get em both to about the same amount of threads; now you can release the spring compressors… let each side out a bit at a time or one might get a bit wedged; mind your fingers too

**a4darkness** · 04-07-2011 10:23 PM

Shock Tower Reassembly (keep in mind the order)

* Now that the tower is ready, put it back in the wheel well, opposite of how it was extracted, and get it resting in it's normal spot (lower fork on the arm, centered etc)

* attach the upper control arm bolts to the sides of the shock tower
* just get the nuts attached to the bolts and hand tighten for now, left then right sides

* pic below is right after I tightened the 2nd UCA, from here you want to move the tower more into the center so the top bushing donut is lined up appropriately
* don't move it too far back, you still need access to the UCA bolts

* now put the jack under the hub and bring it up a bit
* you won't be able to go up all the way or tools won't fit, but you need some upward pressure on the hub to simulate load on the suspension

* tighten the UCA bolts to 37ft/lb using a 16mm ratchet + wrench
* this might not be the most appropriate way to tighten these but since it's kinda difficult to get tools around the UCA bolt+ nut when the tower is back in it's installed position I opted for a happy medium
* I loaded it up as best I could while still leaving room to get to the bolt + nut (my UCA's are pretty shot anyway)

EDIT - should have included this, it's what I was looking at in my Bentley for reference. Thanks to A4SoftWalker for the pics via his control arm install.

If you decide to pull the UCA's like I did, you MUST reassemble using this procedure or risk quickly depleting the lifespan of your UCA's.

* now for the pinch bolt
* align height wise using the jack
* once the arm is level with the pinch bolt, try to reinsert the pinch bolt / steering end link
* get the small top bolt hand tight first and the the main bolt (13mm on top, 16mm front)
* if necessary, use pry bar to slightly open up space to allow 16mm bolt to pop thru
* best technique I found was to remove the main bolt (and the 13mm from the arm) and use the pry bar on the opening a bit to open it up and then try to work it back in
* once it's in there, insert the top 13mm bolt first, then the main bolt using the pry bar and slightly jacking up or letting the hub down as needed
* it's almost a feathering process of sorts
* once the pinch bolt is inserted and bolts are back in, 33 ft/lbs on the 16mm bolt and hand tighten the 13mm (snug = good)

* now for the lower sway bar bolt
* lower the jack enough to align end link to lower sway bar
* end link won't be aligned perfectly side to side so get it close and pull on the end link hard enough to line with the sway bar
* jack higher / lower accordingly and get the bolt fed thru and in as much as possible
* you should be able to start it with your hand once you've got the link in a good position
* then tighten it down so it's pretty snug (16mm)

* ignore the main shock bolt already being inserted in this pic, it should not be done yet (took some of these in different stages, this should obviously be the new CO's)
* rather, notice how the hub has been jacked up so the sway bar and end link are level, that's what you want

Getting the Tower Properly Aligned
* position the tower under the opening at the top of the wheel well
* slowly begin to jack up the hub
* use the retaining washer stalk as a guide, see pic below for reference (again, pic taken at another part of the install, ignore Koni shock and retaining washer)
* you just want to jack up the hub high enough to feed the tower into place, not crank the hub up super high (not the jack to point… yet)

* once the retaining washer stalk is in the hole the tower will pretty much guide itself into place
* jack the hub back up far enough to start to thread the three top mount bolts via the engine bay
* start the engine bay bolts but don't tighten them down all the way… like 80% tight or so
* maybe get em snug and back it off a turn or two

* now for inserting the main lower shock bolt
* slowly jack up the hub until you're able to feed lower main shock bolt through
* position the lower fork accordingly
* you might have to tap on the fork a bit and / or take a few threads out of the top three bolts to get it just right
* once it's there and lined up the lower main shock bolt should just be able to pop right thru
* again, this is a bit of a feathering process but nothing overly complicated… just makes it easer than having to crank on the bolt and nut
* get them snug for now (16mm)

* now to tighten everything else down to spec
* jack up the hub to around your 'jack-to point'
* yes, it seems kind high but that's okay, consider the suspension is hanging low right now

Tighten to Spec, Top Down
* tighten the upper three engine bay bolts (16mm + extensions) to 55lbs
* tighten main lower shock bolt (18mm socket and wrench) to 66ft/lbs
* tighten lower sway bar bolt (16mm) to 30ft lbs

Great, that's one tower down, one more to go. Leave this side of the vehicle on it's jack stand + wheel off and repeat this entire process on the opposite side.

After completing both sides in the front, I would HIGHLY suggest you put the front end on the ground; wheels back on, tighten bolts, then remove the floor jacks from the front… wheels down (tighten wheel lugs 17mm, to 90 ft lbs)

You've going to need to break free the rear sub frame bolts and having the car planted is not only safer but makes this a tad easier as the car won't rock around as much.

^^ See that shite? We call it The Widow Maker for a reason. Hopefully I'll be getting a new rocker soon.

Now that you've completed the front, reward yourself… like hopping on your longboard for a nice ride to prepare yourself for the next stage.

Welcome back.

**a4darkness** · 04-07-2011 10:23 PM

Before we start the rears, how about some pics… I tried to get all Tyler / Chris style with my little Canon but somehow it didn't quite have the dramatic effect I was looking for. Still kinda cool though.

My photography might not be all that inspiring, but Vogtland makes a pretty nice lookin coilover.

**a4darkness** · 04-07-2011 10:24 PM

REARS

Rears require a different technique than the fronts. The fronts are one side start to finish at a time. The rears require moving back and forth across the entire rear. So be prepared to focus on the rear as a whole.

* put the car on floor jacks at the rear OEM jack location, remove wheels

Here's what you're dealing with:

Shocks Out
1st step is to remove just the shocks on both sides.

Word to the wise… I was serious about getting a wash and using the leaf blower (or air compressor) cause there will be a metric ton of sand, dust and shite back here. Hell if you can power wash the wheel wells, that would be great (why didn't I think of that??) Point being, leave em be and when you touch the wheel liner and it's like Mount Vesuvius just barfed a drum of dirt on your face. Goggles FTW.

* pick a side and go after the upper shock mount bolts first, 3mm + long extension
* if you really want to, remove the fender liner… IMO this is a waste of time
* I just cut a small portion of the fender lining away to gain greater access to the bolts

* this is what it'll look like this once the shock is out but posting now so you can get an idea of what you're dealing with and how much (or little) I cut away
* just use a utility knife

* now for the lower bolt, this might take some force to break free
* be mindful of the break components and whatnot… speaking of which, hang on a sec

* take a good look in your left side wheel well and find this… your vehicle level control sensor; for the most part its out of the way but wanted to point it out now before you start messin about in there; I didn't find the need to disconnect it but figured it was worth mentioning cause some of you get all boss hog on suspension components

* back on track… lower shock bolt, use a 21mm or 13/16 ratchet on back + 21mm or 13/16 wrench in front
* to break it free, just try using the ratchet in the back
* when it starts spinning, throw the wrench on the front
* mind the washer… likely stuck on the shock mount

* now to get the shock out, just reach up into the top of the wheel well and pull down and maneuver the upper shock mount out
* then completely compress the shock housing so you can lift it up and out of the wheel well
* maybe compress the shock once or twice so you know how much time you've got before it's totally extended… you don't want it part way out + then extend and accidentally ding your fender; it's a fun little game, just don't get bested but a gas filled metal tube

* now repeat on the other side, upper bolts and then the lower… compress shock and remove from wheel well
* at this point both shocks are removed from the rear, car is still on floor jacks (and the front end is on the floor)

* now to remove the rear sway bar end bolts on both sides
* one side at a time, take your secondary jack and raise the hub so the sway bar + bolt/mount is level and then remove the 16mm bolt; I used an extension from the inside, comes out pretty easy once it's raised;

Center Jack Point - Rear Diff
* place the large jack under the rear diff in center with a 2 x 4 on the jack
* raise to firm point under diff so it won't slip, but don't lift car off floor jacks!
* be mindful of the exhaust piping and components as well
* this jack needs to support weight of subframe to keep it loaded
* check the floor jacks to be certain the car is still planted firmly on each one and has not lifted off either one… this is VERY important

** Here's where we switch from working on both sides to working on one side **

* on ONE side, start to back out rear sub frame bolts (18mm)
* mind the car moving around, gas in tank sloshing etc.
* if the sub frame is properly supported via jack under center diff, after each bolt is broken free, they'l come out easily… I just pulled both of mine out completely
* here's some bad pics of the bolts, they're on either side of the wheel well… the rear was on pretty good, had to dial up my giant torque wrench all the way to use it as a breaker bar
* again, be mindful of the components and of course rocking the car around

* grab a spring compressor and get it started on the rear spring (side in which bolts are removed)
* the Bentley says four coils need to be compressed however I only got three… but it worked out okay

* on the other side I flipped the compressor around… this seemed to work better (again, only showing this as an example… remain working on only one side at a time)
* see what works for you, it may take a try or two

* the open socket wrench came in really handy with the spring compressors, helped get them down really far
* you'll likely need a combo of different wrenches and extensions as the spring begins to compress
* whatever you're using, check to see you're not compressing it into the spring, might have done this once myself… okay more than once ;-)

* Now for the fun part… lowering the main jack, doing do will let the sub frame slightly drop, enough for you to get the spring out
* keep in mind that you do not want to let the jack out entirely, just drop it down a bit
* check the spring (give it a pull) and lower it some more… I lowered a bit and then used pry bar to wedge the spring out
* when you do so like it's pictured below, the hub will actually drop down a bit and you can pull the spring right out (IIRC, OEM springs are a bit are taller which is harder)
* I used the flat pry as shown earlier but took the pic using this red bar so it could be seen easier
* get it at the base of the spring and work it up and out against the rubber bushing

* once the spring is out, check to be sure the center jack isn't going anywhere… I gave mine a pump or two as to not apply extra strain to the sub frame bolts still in

* now prep your new rear spring for that side… since mine are standard (non GT) Vogtlands, this may differ from what you're doing but should still remain somewhat relevant.

* here's a look at the upper and lower OEM rear shock bushings respectively
* with the Vogtlands, the upper is omitted and the lower is reused… my lower was pretty toast and had I realized this, would have spent the ~$20 for new ones

Vogtland (standard) on the left and Eibach Pro Kit on the right.

Here's the properly assembled Vogtland rear, mind the lower part of the coil and how it aligns inside the lower OEM shock bushing. Again, the upper bushing is eliminated with the Vogtlands and the white cover on the adjuster remains.

Since these are both shorter than the Eibachs and the upper OEM bushing is eliminated they just popped right in, no problem. If you're installing another type of spring you might need to compress em a bit.
* notice how the lower part of the spring curls into the lower shock bushing (not unlike the upper part of the front)
* be certain this is settled correctly at both the bottom and top (scroll back up and notice the small tab on the lower bushing and the raised center portion of the upper)

* after the spring + components are properly seated in place (just that one side), jack up the sub frame at the rear diff
* insert sub frame bolts and snug tighten
* keep center jack in place

* now repeat this process of removing and swapping the spring on the opposite side of the car
* be certain to check that the floor jacks have not shifted before starting on the 2nd side

Final Reassembly of Springs and Sub Frame
* okay, so at this point you've got both the springs swapped, shocks are still out, center jack is in place firmly supporting rear diff and all sub frame bolts are back in tightened snug

* hate to say it *again* but double check to be sure the sub frame is still being supported firmly and the car is not being lifted off the floor jacks

Good? Okay then...

* first tighten sub frame bolts (18mm) to 65 ft lb, one side at a time (keep center jack in place) be sure to get all four
* then reattach rear sway bar bolts on each side by jacking up each side accordingly using secondary jack, (16mm to 33 ft lbs)
* once frame bolts and rear say end bolts are back in, slowly lower jack from rear diff… if sub frame comes with it, jack back up and check your bolts!
* remove center jack from rear diff

Rear Shocks Dis/Reassembly
* rears are easy compared to the fronts… to remove the Koni's the top nut it takes a 5mm hex driver + 18mm open ratchet (OEM or others should be the same or a slight variation)
* again, try to use the correct sizes for top nuts as the angles are kinda precarious so it's pretty easy for them to break free anyway

* the metal shock mount should just pop off but you might have to tap the underside of it to get it loose and free
* to assemble the Vogtlands, it's a vice grip on the nub and 17mm; tighten top nut to 18 ft lbs (I ballparked this by dialing my torque wrench, testing it on something else and then applying similar force on the shock)
* other shocks will use a 5mm hex key (like the Koni's)

(Bentley FTW… see it up there?)

Install Rear Shocks
* at the bottom part of the shock, the larger protruding end of the shock faces to the rear of vehicle (flat part faces front)
* compress shock by pushing down on it, quickly insert back into its spot, get lower part settled
* get it in position and then insert the large lower shock bolt, feeds in from back to front (no need for the nut quite yet)

* now get the upper shock mount bolts started, 13mm + extension, 27ft lbs, but just snug for now
* here's where that magnet tool might come in handy… to either to try and reinsert the upper shock bolt or fish it out of the liner if you were sift enough to lose it… twice (hypothetically speaking of course)
* there's a decent possibility that the upper shock mount won't line up perfectly so you'll need to get some light in there and move it into place

* now go back down to the main lower shock bolt, use a 13/16 ratchet on back, +13/16 wrench in front
* bolt that you already inserted is met by the large washer + nut, tighten just snug for now (111 ft lbs)

* jack up the hub (jack-to point)
* now tighten both the two upper shock mount bolts and the main shock bolt to torque spec (27 ft lbs + 111ft lbs respectively)

* put rear wheels back on, snug tight the 17mm bolts, car off jacks and lowered
* tighten ALL wheel bolts to 90 ft lbs

Now admire your work...

**a4darkness** · 04-07-2011 10:24 PM

Vogtland Coilovers Mini Review (standard, not GT's or adjustables)

Since I've already enacted threadpocalypse here, I'll not start another for this and keep it short n sweet.

I've had the Vogtlands on for about a week and have now had a chance to thoroughly test em out (bad country roads, nicely paved streets around town, long freeway drive etc.) Hands down, absolutely spectacular product. Yes, they're a bit more firm than OEM Sports but don't really feel like it because of the way they just absorb imperfections in the road. Honestly, it's really bizarre.

The car feels very planted and connected to the ground yet quite nimble. Almost like a burden has been lifted off the vehicle. Sounds kinda campy but I really don't know how else to describe it. Overall, they make the ride very compliant and fun. Squat and dive are pretty much gone now and the car reacts effortlessly when headed into a sharp corner. There is some minor body roll present but that will soon be alleviated with a new RS4 rear sway or perhaps a Hotchicks F/R set. Still mulling that one over, but it's not a huge priority as the roll is so minor. I'm not overly motivated to address it at this time.

Rebound and vertical travel was something of great concern to me and it's certainly been effectively minimized by these CO's. There is also almost zero bounce. And I only say 'almost' because it will happen on a very poor road... but it's incredibly minor. I love these on the freeway. The car just glides. Even at elevated speeds the ride is firm and controlled yet still comfortable and accurately responsive when aggressively maneuvering.

As of now, I just threw em on at the factory settings out of the box. In these pics, my GTF is about 24.5" but a tad lower in the rear. But in the few days since I took them, the Vogtlands have already started to settle. I'd say it's almost another .25" and the rear's lower height looks more pronounced. Will give em another two weeks or so, then readjust and go in for an alignment.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in about Vogtlands on the zine or posted some worthy suspension related info, Matt for the quick answers during my install, DC for all the help and Mike @ Pure MS (where I purchased them) for going far beyond normal levels of customer service. Thus far, I'm very stoked on the new setup.

Yeah, my dog was chewin on my wheels and I need spacers. One thing at a time.

**Audi Skate Snow** · 04-07-2011 10:38 PM

so I didnt read this whole thing... but did you remove the swaybar links and steering links just to do new coils?

There were a lot of unnecessary steps you took doing this and made it more complicated than it is. Spring compressors on the rear are not needed... just drop the subframe.

great write up though... very detailed!

**a4darkness** · 04-07-2011 10:45 PM

Like I said up top, this is just how I opted to tackle it. Take away from it what you will. Thx.

**nofearhawk** · 04-07-2011 10:49 PM

Good walkthrough

**trav10** · 04-07-2011 10:54 PM

holy writeup batman! nice work!

**evo_ski** · 04-07-2011 11:13 PM

Wow, incredibly well written. I have never done anything mechanical on any of my cars but I feel as though this was plenty well put together for me to follow and replace parts as they start to wear out or start to squeak. Thanks so much for the time and effort to put this together I am very impressed!

Cheers

**iamshayan** · 04-07-2011 11:44 PM

i actualy lol'd a couple times, just read it through, looks great!
one question I do have is you pointed out the vehicle level sensor for some reason but never said why.
I know these arent easy to do so kudo's,
I just saved a bunch of money on my coilover install by switching to audizine

**Audi Skate Snow** · 04-08-2011 12:24 AM

Originally Posted by a4darkness

Like I said up top, this is just how I opted to tackle it. Take away from it what you will. Thx.

YOu did great man.. awesome write up.

**Saturnine** · 04-08-2011 12:37 AM

Nice writeup!

Just my personal opinion on removing the fronts though.. I usually just remove the whole strut assembly like so:

All you have to do is remove the 3 top nuts, the single control arm bolt and the lower main bolt.. The whole thing comes out, you dont have to bother with the sway bar links or the tierods etc.. I got really good at removing the fronts when i was dealing with those Stasis control arms, i got to the point where i could remove the whole assembly in under 20 mins...

**n7plus1** · 04-08-2011 05:22 AM

Originally Posted by a4darkness

NOTE: I tired out one of those new fangled ratcheting wrenches (see it above, on the concrete) and it was pretty effective. If you need to pick up specific wrenches for this job, consider trying them out.

* now for the god forsaken retaining washer… look up there and find it
* then grab that big ass screw driver or pry bar… you're gonna need some leverage outside of the wheel well
* jack up the hub and and keep it there to relieve pressure
* use the long screw driver to bend each side of washer down and in, needle nose help too
* no, I would not suggest reinstalling it so feel free to destroy it
* this pic is kinda worthless as the driver is pointing to the retaining washer post, but pretty much hiding it… nice work assclown

the stud youre pointing to in this pic...i noticed last night while working on something else that mine doesnt have a nut on it, is that normal? i check the other side, same story.

**n7plus1** · 04-08-2011 05:35 AM

Is there no front lower spring bushing? i see you hadnt listed one in your first post. those bitches are expensive.

**mjfrizz** · 04-08-2011 05:51 AM

Maybe I missed it, but if you remove those upper control arms, you need to install them at an exact location...which is why most people don't remove them, cause you don't need to. Actually, I thought it was you that brought up this same issue awhile ago...there is a diagram in the bentley that shows how to set them if for some reason you want to remove them, here it is, sorry for crappy resolution, maybe someone else has a better one-

**mjfrizz** · 04-08-2011 05:53 AM

Great writeup by the way, wish I would have had it when I did my first suspension install

**dubgli** · 04-08-2011 06:17 AM

Originally Posted by Audi Skate Snow

so I didnt read this whole thing... but did you remove the swaybar links and steering links just to do new coils?

There were a lot of unnecessary steps you took doing this and made it more complicated than it is. Spring compressors on the rear are not needed... just drop the subframe.

great write up though... very detailed!

First off.. great write up.. i would never have the patience to do a diy like this.. THANKS..

audi-skate: i was thinking something similar.. it's been a while since i did mine.. but you're saying just keep lowering the rear diff a little more until the springs can come out easily correct? I remember doing it that way as well..

**1900gte** · 04-08-2011 09:50 AM

Hello from NL.

This is a very interesting threat.
The job at the rear is simpler when you just lower the whole assembly(diff) , just be carfull with the break lines.

I am running the yellow koni's that you have removed and I have a question.
I can see in the old donut that the hole is no longer round.
I have the impresion that you widened the hole in the triangular aluminum plate for the bigger Koni rods.

My question, am i correct in my observations and did you have problems making the car knock free with the yellow koni's.
Was it running over bumbs without suspension knocks?

I have the koni's now for a year and still trying to find the source of knocks that seems to come for free with them.
On a german forum I found a clue that this might be a problem.

btw your other theats are also good.

http://www.a4-freunde.com/showthread...t=Kolbenstange

**Saturnine** · 04-08-2011 10:01 AM

Yea, there is no nut on that stud. Its more of a guidepin of sorts for the upper suspension assembly

Originally Posted by n7plus1

the stud youre pointing to in this pic...i noticed last night while working on something else that mine doesnt have a nut on it, is that normal? i check the other side, same story.

**Dirty** · 04-08-2011 10:09 AM

Originally Posted by n7plus1

the stud youre pointing to in this pic...i noticed last night while working on something else that mine doesnt have a nut on it, is that normal? i check the other side, same story.

Thats normal. From factory there is a lock washer/clip on that stud (biggest PITA to get off). It's there as a guide (^like stated above) and to hold the strut assembly in place once the top bolts are removed

**widgget** · 04-08-2011 10:26 AM

awesome writeup, still think i'm going to let a shop tackle this when i get the ST's (should be here next week).

aside form the donut bushings on the top, anything else i should change while in there so i don't need to have it pulled apart again soon.

**Saturnine** · 04-08-2011 11:02 AM

Its not that hard to swap suspension in these cars, you can do it

**n7plus1** · 04-08-2011 11:14 AM

Originally Posted by Dirty

Thats normal. From factory there is a lock washer/clip on that stud (biggest PITA to get off). It's there as a guide (^like stated above) and to hold the strut assembly in place once the top bolts are removed

phew, ok thanks

**a4darkness** · 04-08-2011 12:47 PM

Originally Posted by Saturnine

Just my personal opinion on removing the fronts though.. I usually just remove the whole strut assembly... All you have to do is remove the 3 top nuts, the single control arm bolt and the lower main bolt.. The whole thing comes out, you dont have to bother with the sway bar links or the tierods etc.. I got really good at removing the fronts when i was dealing with those Stasis control arms, i got to the point where i could remove the whole assembly in under 20 mins...

Honestly, had I seen this anywhere in a DIY or something I likely would have done it too. Certainly thought about it while sizing up the tower, but since Capt. and Martini both did theirs by removal of the UCA's at the top, figured that was what needed to be done.

**a4darkness** · 04-08-2011 12:52 PM

Originally Posted by widgget

awesome writeup, still think i'm going to let a shop tackle this when i get the ST's (should be here next week).
aside form the donut bushings on the top, anything else i should change while in there so i don't need to have it pulled apart again soon.

I went back n forth on this for a while but realized that it was totally doable. Just took some time to figure it all out.
But to answer your question, especially if you're gonna have a shop do it, I would go all out and replace all of the control arms, links and maybe the tie rods as well. I debated on this but decided to find a happy medium by swapping out some bushings and whatnot. Feel like I got most of the important stuff checked.

Originally Posted by Saturnine

Its not that hard to swap suspension in these cars, you can do it

He's right... especially if I can figure this out.

**a4darkness** · 04-08-2011 12:55 PM

Originally Posted by mjfrizz

Maybe I missed it, but if you remove those upper control arms...Great writeup by the way, wish I would have had it when I did my first suspension install

Appreciate you pointing this out! I've added it to the UCA reassembly steps. I tried not to miss anything in this write up and will fully admit some of it is likely overkill. But, I didn't want to skip over anything in case someone is new to this. However in doing so I feel like I left out some things like this that should have been included. And thank you.

**Audi Skate Snow** · 04-08-2011 01:01 PM

Originally Posted by dubgli

First off.. great write up.. i would never have the patience to do a diy like this.. THANKS..

audi-skate: i was thinking something similar.. it's been a while since i did mine.. but you're saying just keep lowering the rear diff a little more until the springs can come out easily correct? I remember doing it that way as well..

just do one side at a time.. put a jack under the rear and remove the two 18mm sub frame bolts and then lower it down.. the springs literally fall out.

**a4darkness** · 04-08-2011 01:44 PM

Originally Posted by Audi Skate Snow

did you remove the swaybar links and steering links just to do new coils ... unnecessary steps ... Spring compressors on the rear are not needed... just drop the subframe.

Originally Posted by dubgli

i was thinking something similar.. it's been a while since i did mine.. but you're saying just keep lowering the rear diff a little more until the springs can come out easily correct? I remember doing it that way as well..

It might not make sense, but I was actually looking at this project from the perspective of writing it up for someone with very little knowledge of working on a car. I actually put things back together and took them apart in different order to see what worked better. So yeah, I'm sure there's some stuff that could have been done in a more simple fashion but my goal was for it to make sense. I'm hoping there will be more additions to this thread to further the ease of install.

As for the whole dropping the sub frame thing, I did do exactly that. However, I have no idea how far a half-attached B6 A4 sub frame can be dropped without potentially harming something (oh noz!). When I don't have confirmation for something like this, I play it safe (same with the UVA removal, went with what I'd seen and knew works). So I lowered the sub frame to a point popped a compressor on and the spring came out quite easily. The use of the pry bar was at the same amount of force you'd use to pop off a bottle cap, so it was pretty close anyway.

Originally Posted by Audi Skate Snow

YOu did great man.. awesome write up.

Thanks for adding this, I do appreciate it.

Keep in mind, I'm writing threads like this (and the big engine strengthening / reliability novella) for a version of me a few years ago when I was too much of a misinformed candy ass to work on my car. Back then, I suddenly realized that the more in depth write ups in the AW Tech Section really made sense to me. So no matter how trivial something might seem, I include it cause there's always someone like I was... eager to learn but not sure where to begin.

**a4darkness** · 04-08-2011 01:50 PM

Originally Posted by iamshayan

i actualy lol'd a couple times, just read it through, looks great!
one question I do have is you pointed out the vehicle level sensor for some reason but never said why.
I know these arent easy to do so kudo's, I just saved a bunch of money on my coilover install by switching to audizine

This fully had me laughing. Best part? I read it in the voice of the Geico guy... and I've lost The Game.

I pointed out the vehicle level sensor cause I never noticed it... like until I was finally putting the shocks back in. I think I almost dropped a wrench on it or something and was like, hmmm WTF is that? Looks important. So I looked it up in the Bentley and realized I should at least bring some attention to it. Expensive sensor is expensive. So, quickly pulled the shock back out and snapped a pic.

**R3V3NANT** · 04-08-2011 01:53 PM

Great writeup! I wish I'd had this as well last December for reference. Hopefully I'm not the only one who got the Dacia Sandero reference.

**a4darkness** · 04-08-2011 01:54 PM

Originally Posted by R3V3NANT

Hopefully I'm not the only one who got the Dacia Sandero reference.

ROTFL Finally!!

**Saturnine** · 04-08-2011 02:18 PM

Its all good kind sir

We all do things differently..

Originally Posted by a4darkness

Honestly, had I seen this anywhere in a DIY or something I likely would have done it too. Certainly thought about it while sizing up the tower, but since Capt. and Martini both did theirs by removal of the UCA's at the top, figured that was what needed to be done.

**JoshDub** · 04-08-2011 02:52 PM

Well you are just mr informative with all these DIY's arent you Thomas.

Good write up man, I wish I had this when I did mine. Also, spacers. You know, I know, your dog knows it. 12F 20R. Do it

**Elliott** · 04-08-2011 03:51 PM

Oh you and your writeups.

**a4darkness** · 04-08-2011 04:22 PM