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  1. #1
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    B6/B7 S4 Timing Chain FAQ / Information / Discussion Thread

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    The purpose of this thread is to create one central location for information, questions, answers, and discussion concerning the timing chain system used in the Audi B6/B7 S4.

    General Information


    Does my B6/B7 S4 have a Timing Chain or Timing Belt?
    The quick answer is Timing Chain. The B6/B7 S4 4.2 liter power plant is a chain driven system. Other variations of the 4.2 liter V8 are belt driven which can be found in models such as the C5 A6 4.2.

    Location of the Chain Driven System
    Unlike the belt driven system which is located in the forward section of the motor, the chain system used in the B6/B7 S4 is positioned at the REAR of the motor facing the firewall.



    It's not your chain, its the Tensioners / Guides
    When you hear of chain failure in the S4 motor it is in fact the cam adjusters, chain tensioners, and chain guides that wear out / break. There have been no issues to our knowledge of an actual chain snapping. Some cases include:
    • Bad Adjusters
    • Broken Tensioner
    • Worn / Broken Guides


    Cold Start and the Infamous Rattle


    During a cold start-up you might have heard a weird rattle coming from the engine at one point or another. Here is what the Audi TSB states for this issue:

    The Camshaft Adjustment is hydraulically adjusted and controlled by the engine oil pressure. If the engine has been turned off for a long time, the oil pressure drops down and the oil partially flows back into the oil sump. To ensure an efficient camshaft adjustment right after an engine cold start, the oil pressure inside the camshaft adjusters must be built up as fast as possible. During this time, a rattle or knocking noise may be noticeable.

    This noise is normal at engine start and will last until the oil pressure is fully built up, which takes about 1-2 seconds. There is no applicable production solution.
    If you are hearing this noise it is considered "normal" by Audi. Whether us consumers feel it is normal for a 50k sports car, well that is up to you to determine. This does not necessarily mean that you will need your timing system serviced soon. However, it does hint that your tensioners might be worn.

    How to combat the Start-up Rattle / Prolong Life of Timing Components?
    Here are a couple tips to ease the start-up rattle / duration and to get the most out of your vital engine components
    • Frequent Oil Changes: A lot of members change their oil between 3,000-5,000 miles. Try and adopt a similar schedule , anything much over this range is considered too long.
      NOTE: Frequent Oil changes will not PREVENT failure of the timing components, but help reduce wear on the guides

    • High Quality Oil: The oil is the life blood of your motor. It is recommend to use quality oil during oil changes. Our motors use 0w40 or 5w40. A couple popular brands include: Mobile 1 / Lubro Moly / Motul
    • Proper Care: If you want the maximum life out of your motor you have to take the necessary steps to take care of it. Allow proper warm up, don't beat on the car when it is cold and expect it to last forever. Keep up with scheduled maintenance and address issues as they arise.


    Does this failure happen to all of the B6/B7 S4's?
    The short and sweet answer is NO. Out of the thousands of S4's sold between the various platforms, only a small percentage of these cars have seen catastrophic failure resulting in service. However, although only a small number, it is something to consider and think about when purchasing this vehicle.

    I have heard failure occurs at 100k miles, is this true?
    There is no set mileage where failure is imminent. It is a case by case basis on these documented situations. We have seen some engines fail in as little as 40-50k miles and others well over 100k miles. There are a bunch of cars over 140k miles who have had no issues at all. However, several polls have yielded though that the mean average of failures from timing chain components occurs near or around the 100k mark.

    Again, if you are considering a car with 100k miles this does not mean the engine is about to blow, but it is something to consider and keep in mind.

    Symptoms / Codes: What needs to be replaced?


    Cam Over-Advance Codes
    If you are getting this fault code you will only need to replace the cam adjusters. This can be done WITHOUT removing the motor. It will be tight, but the cam adjusters can be replaced by removing the rear timing covers when the motor is still in the car.

    Start-up Rattle
    As stated before, Start-up rattle does not necessarily mean your timing components needs attention. Techniques such as frequent oil changes and quality oil can help this situation. However, if they progressively get worse the chances are they will attention in the near future.

    Possible Causes-> Worn Tensioner, Failing Adjuster

    Mis-Fires / Lack of Performance
    If you start to experience lack of performance and Mis-Fires then the condition is progressively getting worse and will require attention soon.

    Possible Causes-> Failing Tensioner, Failing Adjuster

    Car is in limp mode
    If your condition gets to the point where the car goes into limp mode than you have a serious problem that needs immediate attention. Stop driving the car and have it towed home or to a local dealer / indy shop. Further driving could result in more damage to your motor

    Possible Causes-> Broken Tensioner, Broken Adjuster, Broken Tensioner Guide

    Is you are having any of these symptoms please use this thread to ask any questions or make any comments. We will collectively try and help as much as we can with your issues. It is best to try and narrow down your problem before making decisions or assumptions.

    Supplemental Pictures

    Cracked / Broken Guides



    Bad Cam Adjusters. Take notice to the second picture. The hole should be a perfect circle like the adjuster on the left. Notice the oval shape / wear created on the bad adjusters.



    Timing Chain Service


    Is a motor pull required to service the Chain System?
    If you need to do a full chain service the motor will need to be pulled from the car. Since the chain assembly is located at the rear of the motor is makes it impossible to access while in the car.

    There have been individuals who have only had to replace the Cam Adjusters in their motor. This type of service can be done with the engine still in the car.

    I. DIY Approach
    These guides will help you service your timing chain system if you wish to go the route of doing it yourself. Keep in mind this is not something that you can knock out in a day. Plan accordingly and assume it will take you longer than a full weekend to complete. With a few hands to help and all weekend allocated, I feel this is something that can be done in two days start to finish.

    ENGINE PULL DIY

    TIMING CHAIN DIY (Will be available once i am able to get my hands on one)

    Cost of Parts
    Depending on your situation and your mechanical ability, the timing chain service price can fluctuate. At the bare minimum you are looking at the cost of the new parts if you plan on doing everything yourself. Here is a list of the parts required for a COMPLETE overhaul. Please note that you may not need to do everything listed here, such as the Cam Adjusters.

    079109087N — Cam Adjuster [2]- $975
    N91086201 — Cam Adjuster Bolt [2]- $14
    079109210H — Control Housing [Bank 1]- $650
    079109204L — Control Housing [Bank 2]- $650
    079109092B — Control Housing Gasket [Bank 1]- $3
    079109091B — Control Housing Gasket [Bank 2]- $3
    079109218D — Chain Tensioner [Bank 1]- $100
    079109217J — Chain Tensioner [Bank 2]- $100
    079109510E — Tensioner Chain Guide [Bank 1]- $35
    079109514B — Chain Guide [Bank 1] $30
    079109513C — Chain Guide [Bank 2]- $35
    079109469AD — Center Upper Chain Guide- $32
    079109469AA — Left Lower Chain Guide- $32
    079109510F — Left Lower Chain Guide- $30
    079109507G — Lower Chain Tensioner/Guide assy- $58
    079109467AE — Lower Chain Tensioner- $44
    06E905163 — Cam Position Sensor [Bank 1& 2]- $13 x 2 = $26
    079109293C — Hydraulic Controller Seal [2]- $6
    079131120A — Coolant/SAP Gasket- $8
    079109139A — Center Lower Gasket- $5
    079131120B — Kombi Valve Gasket [Pipe 2 timing cover]- $3
    078131120K — Kombi Valve Gasket [Valve 2 valve]- $3
    079105193 — Diamond Disc Washer [2]- $130
    035906149A — Fuel Injector Seal Set [8]- $10
    077129717Q — Intake Manifold Gaskets [2]- $70
    077198025B — Valve Cover Gasket Kit [Bank 1: 1-4]- $55
    077198025C — Valve Cover Gasket Kit [Bank 2: 5-8]- $55
    079115111A — Oil Filter Housing Seal [Double O-Ring]- $4
    N90959701 — Oil Filter Housing Seal [single O-Ring]- $3
    ********* — Rear Water Manifold O-Rings [2]- $2

    Chains- Optional
    079109229 — Timing Chain Center Upper- $98
    079109229D — Timing Chain Center Lower- $88
    079109229K — Timing Chain Upper Left- $98
    079109229L — Timing Chain Upper Right- $98

    REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS
    To complete the timing chain service you will need a few special tools:
    • Crank holder / Pin
    • 2 x Trim Wedge
    • 1 x Multi-point Socket
    • 1 x Pair of Camshaft Locators
    • 1 x Setting Gauge.

    Parts can be purchased HERE for $350 or rented HERE for $150


    Based on the list prices above the Total Cost of a complete overhaul for PARTS ONLY (No Tools) will be:
    A. Slightly above $3,000 with the Cam Adjusters
    B. Right around $2,000 without the Cam Adjusters

    Therefore, if you plan to do all of the work yourself you can have it done for the cost of parts you replace.

    II. Shop / Dealer Approach

    What should i expect to pay to have a shop do the labor?
    The cost of having this job done is going to vary from place to place. Each shop has a different labor rate which will effect the amount you will pay to have it done. We have seen quotes for this service for as little as $5,000 and some quotes over $10,000. Again, it all depends on the shops labor rate and the parts being replaced.

    One recommendation we have is to have this job done by an experienced Indy or Audi dealership who have done this type of work before. It is a very tedious and involved service that should be completed by experienced technicians. This job is far to costly and time consuming to have it done incorrectly or faulty.

    This service seems really expensive, Can't I just buy a used motor for less?
    In some cases it may very well be cheaper to buy a used motor to replace the current engine that needs a timing service done. However, be aware that there is no guarantee that the used motor will or will not need a timing chain service of its own in the future. A lot of people will pay the extra cost of the service for peace of mind knowing that their timing components are freshly updated. In the end it is up to you on which route you want to take.

    Used motors with lower miles can be had in the range of $2500-$5000. The price will reflect the miles, condition, warranty (if applicable), and the components coming with the motor (bare or complete long block).

    Buying a used motor instead?
    • Make sure the motor has a leak-down and compression test
    • Try and find a motor with low miles
    • Warranties are always a plus for used motors


    My motor is out for the Timing Chain Service, what else should / can i do?
    With the motor out of the car there is an opportunity to take care of maintenance, modifications, and other failing parts that are far easier with the motor out. Here are some items to consider with the motor out:

    Maintenance:
    • Clutch and Flywheel
    • Motor Mounts
    • Engine Components (Starter / Compressor / Alternator / PS Pump)
    • Serpentine Belt
    • Valve Cover Gaskets
    • Spark Plugs


    Modifications:
    • JHM Headers / Aftermarket Downpipes
    • JHM Intake Manifold / Spacers
    • JHM Oil Cooler
    • JHM Crank Pulley
    • Snub Mount
    • JHM Shifter Trio


    RESOURCES AND GUIDES


    ENGINE PULL DIY

    Replacing the Bank 2 Cam Adjuster VIDEO


    Please note that a bunch of this information is a collective effort from the community. Thanks to all for the helpful information to make this thread possible. If you would like something added please post up what you would like incorporated. If you feel something needs to be changed, feel free to comment.
    Last edited by joeycuccaro; 02-24-2011 at 10:58 AM.

  2. #2
    Registered Member Four Rings B6JoeS4's Avatar
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    Awesome Joey. hopefully Anthony will unblock the EA link so people can figure out how to pull their motors

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings Hazziar's Avatar
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    Great effort putting this together man, very solid info

    If you want, you can embed my video on documenting the bank2 timing service with engine in chassis for reference on the alternative to removing the engine for timing work on the heads.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiTiJ5mnvQ4

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Rated 5 stars
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    Horsepower to the people

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Very helpful, thanks!
    2004 S4, 6MT, Magnaflow non-res cat-back, piggie pipes, AVIC X920BT, 20" Asanti ELT 150, DDM 3000k HID Fogs, DDM 6000k Low Beams, JHM Tune.

  6. #6
    Account Terminated Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hazziar View Post
    Great effort putting this together man, very solid info

    If you want, you can embed my video on documenting the bank2 timing service with engine in chassis for reference on the alternative to removing the engine for timing work on the heads.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiTiJ5mnvQ4
    Awesome! Thanks for letting me throw this in there.

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings kelseysautobody's Avatar
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    Great write up! Informative and to the point. It's too bad there isn't more of this on the site.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings BCsniper's Avatar
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    Really good of you to put this all together.


    It seems everyone not in the B6/7 crowd is out of the loop on this one and don't know quite the specifics.....all they know is that "this one time I read somewhere that S4 chains go bad at 100k miles"

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Incase anyone is curious i called axis motorsports and they do not have any of the parts in question...

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings UnstableOS's Avatar
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    This is the only place you need to go for any part. The prices are fair and the customer service is great. Obviously better deals may be available on parts, but if you need something and need it to be right, GAP is a good place to go.

    http://www.genuinevwaudiparts.com
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  11. #11
    Account Terminated Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by buffalony View Post
    Incase anyone is curious i called axis motorsports and they do not have any of the parts in question...
    Hmm... Thanks for checking up on that. I took another members word for that as i shuffled through the threads.

  12. #12
    Account Terminated Four Rings
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    Does anyone know the part numbers for the required tools for the timing chain service? Would be a great addition to this thread.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings CHECKERED's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeycuccaro View Post
    How to combat the Start-up Rattle / Prolong Life of Timing Components?
    Here are a couple tips to ease the start-up rattle / duration and to get the most out of your vital engine components
    • Frequent Oil Changes: A lot of members change their oil between 3,000-5,000 miles. Try and adopt a similar schedule , anything much over this range is considered too long.
    • High Quality Oil: The oil is the life blood of your motor. It is recommend to use quality oil during oil changes. Our motors use 0w40 or 5w40. A couple popular brands include: Mobile 1 / Lubro Moly / Motul
    • Proper Care: If you want the maximum life out of your motor you have to take the necessary steps to take care of it. Allow proper warm up, don't beat on the car when it is cold and expect it to last forever. Keep up with scheduled maintenance and address issues as they arise.
    I would point out that frequent oil changes will only help prevent wear to the guides, not the failure of the guides, tensioners or cam adjusters, those are a factory hardware issue not a poor maintenance issue.
    B6 S4:JHM Supercharger Stage I, IM spacers, Carbonio-JHM hybrid Intake, FI DP&CB, Carbon Fiber Vented Hood, 034 Engine & Trans Mounts, Apikol Rear Diff Mount, JHM Oil, Power Steering & Trans coolers, PSS9 Coilovers, Hotchkis sway bars, Adjustable Control Arms, B7 RS4 Front (JHM LW rings) & JHM BBK Rear, StopTech SS lines.
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  14. #14
    Account Terminated Four Rings
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    ^ Made it more clear. Thanks

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Many thanks to Joey for this very helpful data. A few items on this parts list needs to be updated, however:

    P/N 079109210H has been superceded by 079109210L.
    P/N 079109510F has been superceded by 079109510M
    The Cam Position Sensors for bank 1 & 2 are not the same P/N, they should be:
    06E905163 Camshaft sensor 4.2 LITER Left
    06C905163B Camshaft sensor 4.2 LITER Right
    The Coolant/SAP Gasket for the driver’s (left) side timing chain cover is listed (079131120A), but the similar gasket for the passenger’s (right) side is missing from the list. That part number is 079131120. (for reference, see here)
    The part number for the Rear Water Manifold O-Rings, which is missing in the listing, is N90989503

    In the following, all pricing is from GAP.

    So, the updated parts list is:

    1. 079109087N — Cam Adjuster [2]- $1109.30
    2. N91086201 — Cam Adjuster Bolt [2]- $10.92
    3. 079109210L — Control Housing [Bank 1]- $757.64
    4. 079109204L — Control Housing [Bank 2]- $757.64
    5. 079109092B — Control Housing Gasket [Bank 1]- $7.44
    6. 079109091B — Control Housing Gasket [Bank 2]- $7.44
    7. 079109218D — Chain Tensioner [Bank 1]- $127.22
    8. 079109217J — Chain Tensioner [Bank 2]- $127.22
    9. 079109510E — Tensioner Chain Guide [Bank 1]- $52.27
    10. 079109514B — Chain Guide [Bank 1] $24.92
    11. 079109513C — Chain Guide [Bank 2]- $24.92
    12. 079109469AD — Center Upper Chain Guide- $37.08
    13. 079109469AA — Left Lower Chain Guide- $37.08
    14. 079109510M — Left Lower Chain Guide- $59.15
    15. 079109507G — Lower Chain Tensioner/Guide assy- $59.15
    16. 079109467AE — Lower Chain Tensioner- $50.96
    17. 06E905163 — Cam Position Sensor [Left]- $21.02
    18. 06C905163B — Cam Position Sensor [Right]- $32.18
    19. 079109293C — Hydraulic Controller Seal [2]- $17.60
    20. 079131120A — Coolant/SAP Gasket- $12.70
    21. 079131120 - Coolant/SAP Gasket- $12.70
    22. 079109139A — Center Lower Gasket- $9.90
    23. 079131120B — Kombi Valve Gasket [Pipe 2 timing cover]- $7.87
    24. 078131120K — Kombi Valve Gasket [Valve 2 valve]- $3.72
    25. 079105193 — Diamond Disc Washer [2]- $116.06
    26. 035906149A — Fuel Injector Seal Set [8]- $23.28
    27. 077129717Q — Intake Manifold Gaskets [2]- $36.08
    28. 077198025B — Valve Cover Gasket Kit [Bank 1: 1-4]- $46.13
    29. 077198025C — Valve Cover Gasket Kit [Bank 2: 5-8]- $46.13
    30. 079115111A — Oil Filter Housing Seal [Double O-Ring]- $5.46
    31. N90959701 — Oil Filter Housing Seal [single O-Ring]- $1.24
    32. N90989503 — Rear Water Manifold O-Rings [2]- $3.84

    TOTAL: $3646.26



    In the following illustration, the blue numbers correspond to the numbers in the list above. View Full Size



    Also, make sure you pick up a good supply of your favorite Gasket Silicone Sealant, because you will need it when you replace the various covers. The Audi sealant is P/N D176501A1, $15.07.

    Although it was not in this list, it may be prudent to replace the rear seal, P/N 079103051F, $28.09

    If you have not replaced your Fuel Injector Pintle Caps, you will probably need to since they often break on removal. There are 8 per engine and are available at JHM.

    Note that the Cam Position Sensors, Valve Cover Gasket Kits, Fuel Injector O-Rings, (and perhaps other components) can be purchased from other audizine advertisers at a cost savings. Additionally, JHM has complete timing kits available, see this post.

    Sunset Audi is able to source the Special Tools:

    The complete list of special tools is:

    1. T40237 – Crank Holder - $11.75
    2. 3409 – Trim Wedge (2) - $9.20
    3. T40046 – Camshaft Lock - $155.00
    4. T40047 – Setting Gauge - $99.00
    5. T10035 – Multipoint Socket - $25.00
    6. T40049 – Key Wrench - $54.90

    TOTAL – $354.85
    Total without the Multipoint Socket and Key Wrench (see below): $275.85



    The Multipoint Socket is simply a 14mm Triple Square. A 10mm Triple Square is used for the CV joints, so my advice would be to purchase a triple square set instead of the special tool. This set worked well for me.

    The crankshaft Key Wrench is not necessary if the serpentine belt is installed: the crankshaft can easily be turned by turning the alternator pulley with a 24mm socket.

    I have these tools.

    Now, the following is personal opinion and others will certainly have differing opinions, which is fine. To each his own:

    I believe that replacing this entire list of parts is overkill. I have not read any account of the chains breaking or stretching. I’ve only read of the Electric Cam Adjuster Actuators failure as a result of physical damage resulting from mechanical adjuster. The chains and electric adjusters (along with Diamond disc washers when you replace the electric adjusters) are pricey items, and I would leave them out of a repair job if cost was a concern.

    On the other hand is mechanical cam adjusters and Left Lower Chain Guide (P/N 079109469AA) which often fail. There is also a picture above of the Bank 2 Tensioner (P/N 079109217J) having failed. I would always include these items in a repair job, along with all the new gaskets.

    Now whether the rest of the guides and tensioners need to be replaced is a judgment call. I haven’t seen pictures of the rest of them having failed, so I’m a little dubious about whether they need to be replaced. If there are pictures that I’ve missed of failed guides/tensioners, by all means, post them here for reference.

    And, if you repair budget can handle it and you want the peace of mind, by all means replace everything.

    Of course, I am just a guy on the internet, so you should consult with your Professional Mechanic before taking any of my advice.
    Last edited by guardsredcoupe; 07-12-2012 at 07:01 AM. Reason: Added illustration

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings buck15's Avatar
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    Joey - Thanks for putting this together!

    Questions:

    Should anybody be concerned if they get the rattle restarting warm car, if you turn off completely warm car and restart it 20 minutes later and get rattle?

    Is there any signs in the timing advance numbers that would provide early detection of timing issue?

    Is there any numbers for amount of miles people have had timing rattle before having failure?

  17. #17
    Senior Member Two Rings Monops87's Avatar
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    Is Using the special tools difficult? Is it hard to adjust the timing to the correct position?
    2004 s4 6mt
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  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Please not that I added an illustration above that cross references the parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by buck15 View Post
    Should anybody be concerned if they get the rattle restarting warm car, if you turn off completely warm car and restart it 20 minutes later and get rattle?
    The chain rattle results from the pressure bleeding off that is supposed to pressurize the tensioners. Each time the chain rattles, it puts some stress on the timing system, so the answer really depends on how you use your car. Let's assume that you start your car twice a day to go to work and back. It's really the same whether you get a rattle after 20 minutes or after 4 hours. It still puts stress on the timing system twice a day. However, if you start your car 10 times a day and your pressure bleeds off in 20 minutes, you'll get chain rattle 10 times. If instead your pressure bled off in 4 hours, starting the car 10 times a day would only results in chain rattle on the first start.

    Quote Originally Posted by buck15 View Post
    Is there any signs in the timing advance numbers that would provide early detection of timing issue?
    I think I've read that the VAG-COM can give you the angle that your timing is advanced by.

    Quote Originally Posted by Monops87 View Post
    Is Using the special tools difficult? Is it hard to adjust the timing to the correct position?
    The Bentley manual gives step by step instructions in adjusting the timing. If you can get the engine out of the car, you won't have any problem using the special tools.

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings mlittleton's Avatar
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    Best thread I've seen on this yet. Very thorough and informative. Thanks Joey!!
    2006 Audi S4 / Black on Black / 18" S5 Reps / Akebono Euro Ceramic - R1Concepts drilled/slotted rotors

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings buck15's Avatar
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    "I think I've read that the VAG-COM can give you the angle that your timing is advanced by."

    What numbers would be out of range with timing advance? I have seen -5 to 43

  21. #21
    Senior Member Two Rings Monops87's Avatar
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    If using the vagcom how can I for sure tell that i have a cam adjuster problem. I read something I think it said 091 092 093 and log those. I'm not sure.. The codes I'm getting are p0300 p0301 p0303 an p1340 .. I'm not getting a timing over advance code nor am I getting a whole bank of cyl misfires. Confused
    2004 s4 6mt
    VMR v710, Trexturk catless downpipes, Fast Intentions Exhaust, Jhm short throw shifter, Jhm stg 3 clutch, Jhm 93oct tune.

  22. #22
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Nov 13 2011
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    Tampa Fl

    part number for the exhaust cam sprocket bolt(number 62 in the diagram)? Bently says that has to be free spinning and needs to be replaced if removed. Also where can I find a complete parts diagram for the B6 s4, I read somewhere that you can get an ETKA login for free but can't find it?

  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by tampas4 View Post
    part number for the exhaust cam sprocket bolt(number 62 in the diagram)? Bently says that has to be free spinning and needs to be replaced if removed. Also where can I find a complete parts diagram for the B6 s4, I read somewhere that you can get an ETKA login for free but can't find it?
    The P/N is N90981001, which is part number 62 (numbered in black) in the illustration above. I've had reasonable success looking at the parts diagram available from JimEllisAudiParts.com.

  24. #24
    Registered Member Four Rings B6JoeS4's Avatar
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    You can get a pirated version of ETKA on eBay. Mine works great

  25. #25
    Registered Member One Ring
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    What is the part # for the mechanical cam adjusters?

  26. #26
    Senior Member Three Rings Tropicgreena4's Avatar
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    Oct 07 2004
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    98.5 Audi A4 2.8 30v qms
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    NFC, PA

    would it be of any value to put a link to the "Solution to chain rattle" thread in this thread?
    -Wes

  27. #27
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrbell845 View Post
    What is the part # for the mechanical cam adjusters?
    079109087N

    Quote Originally Posted by Tropicgreena4 View Post
    would it be of any value to put a link to the "Solution to chain rattle" thread in this thread?
    The solution to chain rattle

  28. #28
    Registered Member One Ring
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    I need help please. I have 2005 a6 4.2. Left side out of timing. I had shop replace all guides, tensioners and chains. 2 guides were broken. The right side is timed perfectly. But the left side cam isn't moving. They think it's either the cam adjuster, the control housing or the camshaft itselfl. What are your suggestions . Thanks

  29. #29
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrbell845 View Post
    I need help please. I have 2005 a6 4.2. Left side out of timing. I had shop replace all guides, tensioners and chains. 2 guides were broken. The right side is timed perfectly. But the left side cam isn't moving. They think it's either the cam adjuster, the control housing or the camshaft itselfl. What are your suggestions . Thanks
    You mean the camshaft will not rotate? I assume they have the crank holder installed correctly?
    Remove the cam adjuster and see if the camshaft will rotate. If not, remove the control housing and see if it will rotate. IMHO you should definitely be replacing both camshaft adjusters while you have your engine out.

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings BCsniper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by B6JoeS4 View Post
    You can get a pirated version of ETKA on eBay. Mine works great

    That's it Joe. I am calling the POlice

  31. #31
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Correct. The camshaft will not rotate. They said they believe there is a mechanism inside the control housing that is supposed to lock but isn't. I'll have them do what you've recommended. Before I purchase the control housing.and I also will definitely change both adjusted like you said. Thanks much

  32. #32
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Are the cam adjusters for the 2005 s4 the same as the 2005 a6 4.2?

  33. #33
    Registered Member Four Rings EUROSWAGR's Avatar
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    Oct 11 2008
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    2013 Ford F-150 FX4 (twins) Gone, but faster than BadBlue's RS4 / 2012 Audi Q5 S-line
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrbell845 View Post
    Are the cam adjusters for the 2005 s4 the same as the 2005 a6 4.2?
    ETKA shows two part numbers for the adjusters that I assume are suitable substitutes or updated versions

    This is for 4.2l V8 engine code BAS

    079 109 087 E replaced by 079 109 087 J, which genuineaudiparts says the replacement for the J part# is the below N part#
    and the adjuster (079 109 087 N) from above are listed.

    So long story short...YES
    FX4 Ecoboosting until the perfect RS comes along..

  34. #34
    Active Member One Ring scherbad's Avatar
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    Under low throttle I can hear the movement of the chain, not metal on metal but quite simply the sound of a moving chain.. My question is if everything is running efficiently, should I be able to hear this from the cabin? As I get past 3000 rpm the engine sound overpowers the sound of the chain.

    I have not had my S4 for very long, nor have I ever been in a brand new one. So I am unsure as what is normal.

  35. #35
    Established Member Two Rings
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    No, you should not hear chain. If the tensioners are working properly, there will be no slack in the chain. All the movements - pivoting of the links, links meeting sprockets, and chain moving over over the guides/tensioners - should make no chain sounds in the presence of oil.

    However, there are straight cut gears in there that are notoriously noisy, maybe that's what you're hearing?

    I wouldn't get too worked up about it... with a new (to you) engine, it's easy to fret over unrecognized sounds.

  36. #36
    Active Member One Ring scherbad's Avatar
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    Canada

    Its super easy to fret about these engines lol. Thanks for the reply. The engine just rolled over 200,000 kms so I would presume there to be some tension wear. It could very well be the gears if you say they are noisy.

    Just trying to prevent future problems! Not a whole lot one can do, other than oil maintenance, right?

  37. #37
    Established Member Two Rings
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    2004 S4 1992 Mustang GT v
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    PA

    I'm getting some chatter from my clutch at about 85K miles, so I'm thinking of doing the timing chain service with the clutch. Based on the recommendation in this thread, it seems the preferred approach is to skip the electric cam adjuster and chains. That being said, it sounds like JHM's Intermediate kit is the way to go.
    See here.
    Sound right? Any thoughts on the quality of JHM parts?

    Thanks

  38. #38
    Active Member Two Rings MaudiS4's Avatar
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    1999.5 AUDI A4 2005.5 B7 S4
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    Silver Spring , Maryland

    Last edited by MaudiS4; 01-27-2013 at 08:19 PM.

  39. #39
    Active Member Two Rings teamraw's Avatar
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    May 08 2012
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    My Garage
    2005 Audi S4, 98 jetta vr6
    Location
    Reno NV

    Question:
    On the Driver side bank, i can move the chain just a little bit and on the passenger-side Bank I can't move it at all ??? Anybody know if these is normal

  40. #40
    Established Member Two Rings Omerta's Avatar
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    Jun 12 2013
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    GSXR750, 2005.5 Audi S4
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    Link to the engine pull DIY is dead. Care to update?
    2005.5 B7 Audi S4
    6MT

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