Well today was the day all the magic started. And since I was unable to post this in the projects/builds section......you guys are stuck with me putting this here.
I have been stock-piling pieces over the winter in anticipation for this day. After MUCH deliberation between keeping it simple and going with a cookie-cutter setup GTRS with Revo, I decided that if I'm going to spend this much money and effort.....why build a setup that will always keep me wondering "what if." Not to mention the fact that there isn't a single aftermarket high-flow OEM replacement that doesn't crack. I've ready about too many horror stories of installs and cracking etc. I didn't want to go that route.
So I guess now is the time where I lay out all of my info. Unless otherwise noted, parts will be from OEM AMB engine
Nice! Looks like you have the energy to do a build AND take photos worth something? Awesome, thats more than I can say... mine were so snap-shotty after I was done working.
Chris, you *may* want to consider going to a S4 MAF. From what I've found in the past, I managed to max out the VR6 MAF (which maxes out at 229g/s) on a race tune with just a GT28RS. Though you can scale the g/s readings on the tune, the MAF signal is way too close to 5vdc (your MAF reads 0-5vdc) at 4.2vdc. Though this will still work, having the MAF voltage at that high will cause it to burn out much sooner.
I wish you the best with getting the MAF to work. Chris (bananas) is trying but with limited success. Probably in a couple of months CTapp will have the MAF scaling figured out [I hope] within Maestro.
Which S4 MAF Jeff? Different housing or housing and sensor?
So excited to finally have this project started! I've been wanting to do this for 5 years!
Steve I plan on taking photos of EVERYTHING :) That's how I roll..... So tonight I'm hoping to snap a few photos of some more goodies as well as possibly the manifold. I get off work at 5 tonight and hopefully should have a hoist by 6. The engine will be out tonight and hopefully I'll be able to start working on the rods and rings.
I would like to have the motor back together and ready to be fitted back in the car on Saturday......but who knows. I spend over 30 mins yesterday fucking with the lower coolant hose and heater core tubes. lol.
A little silicon grease on the o-rings within the coolant line connectors and they will go back on easy and come off next time even easier. Use on all o-rings.
Unbolt the a/c compressor from the engine and you can rotate the compressor and condensor to the passenger side, out of the way, with it all connected. No need to loose coolant.
Unbolt the power steering pump (bolts are though those three holes in the pulley) and place that on the driver side frame rail. No need to loose power steering fluid.
Chris, glad to see the official unveiling :) We'll be in touch, I'm sure.
Originally Posted by dougyfresh
I wish you the best with getting the MAF to work. Chris (bananas) is trying but with limited success. Probably in a couple of months CTapp will have the MAF scaling figured out [I hope] within Maestro.
I've got it mostly figured out now. There might be issues with clipping beyond some value, but I haven't run across it yet with my turbo/sensor/housing. Super easy now, enter your MAF size, choose a starting point, and it gives you the scaling and offset values for Maestro: http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?k...ORGdnNXc&hl=en
Also, I agree with Jeff, go bigger than TT225 housing if you can. Check the "normalized data g/sec" tab in the spreadsheet linked above for voltage->g/s mappings.
A little silicon grease on the o-rings within the coolant line connectors and they will go back on easy and come off next time even easier. Use on all o-rings.
Unbolt the a/c compressor from the engine and you can rotate the compressor and condensor to the passenger side, out of the way, with it all connected. No need to loose coolant.
Unbolt the power steering pump (bolts are though those three holes in the pulley) and place that on the driver side frame rail. No need to loose power steering fluid.
The AC condenser is already unbolted and sitting on the passengers side.
The power steering pump, however, is still on the engine and the lines are drained. I needed to drain it anyway to get the cooler out from the rad support.
Chris, glad to see the official unveiling :) We'll be in touch, I'm sure.
I've got it mostly figured out now. There might be issues with clipping beyond some value, but I haven't run across it yet with my turbo/sensor/housing. Super easy now, enter your MAF size, choose a starting point, and it gives you the scaling and offset values for Maestro: http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?k...ORGdnNXc&hl=en
Also, I agree with Jeff, go bigger than TT225 housing if you can. Check the "normalized data g/sec" tab in the spreadsheet linked above for voltage->g/s mappings.
We'll be in touch for sure. Haha. I'm going to need a few pointers from the people that have been messing with Maestro for a bit. All I've been able to do is open it up and look around so far. I haven't actually learned anything yet.
As for the MAF housing.... the VR6 MAF is going to have to do for now. I need my car back ASAP because I have shoots coming up. I'll figure out the MAF situation once I get things up and running with the parts I have. PS.... being able to swap MAF housings whenever I want is EXACTLY one of the reasons why I didn't go with Unitronic or Revo. I can make the changes myself. No BS with dealers or shipping ECU's.
Well I certainly didn't make as much progress as I would have liked......but that's how things go. I work in an engineering department....... I know for a fact that NOTHING ever goes according to plan. haha.
I got hung up on the engine/transmission bolts for a lot longer than I had anticipated. They were SO tight. Every single one needed a love tap from a dead-blow hammer to crack it loose. I also had to fab up a couple of brackets for my engine stand because the neighbor I borrowed it from only had two. I certainly didn't feel comfortable supporting my entire engine on only 2 bolts.
So after struggling with the engine bolts the motor popped right out. I'm trying to removed the wiring harness in some sort of an order. The engine seems to have been leaking like crazy from the cam chain tensioner. There is also a pile of caked on oil from when my valve cover gasket was leaking before I changed my timing belt.
After inspecting the K03.....the bearing are definitely pooched. After removing the clutch......the clutch is also pooched. So at least I have SOME justification for my madness and empty wallet.
Enjoy the photos from today!
As promised.....some shots of parts from PSi
Prototype testpipe. Will be replaced with a pretty production unit.
NICE!!!! Best build photos ever. When did you have time to work on the engine framing all these photos up? Very cool stuff Chris, excited to see where you are saturday.
Damn, Chris. You work fast especially when you're taking wedding photos of your turbos etc. Are you going to cap off the wastegate flange on your exhaust manifold? Your testpipe doesn't have a provision for a wastegate dump.
Your build is really looking good. I love the manifold choice. I'm going to guess you'll be done in 2 weeks. There must be a plethora of gaskets/hoses, etc. you can do right now while its all there in front of you, not to mention the engine bay detail opportunity you have~
Damn, Chris. You work fast especially when you're taking wedding photos of your turbos etc. Are you going to cap off the wastegate flange on your exhaust manifold? Your testpipe doesn't have a provision for a wastegate dump.
His turbo is internally gated, he just doesn't have the actuator installed yet. Therefore, I presume, he'll bolt on a cover for the WG port on the manifold.
Originally Posted by nein-reis
NICE!!!! Best build photos ever. When did you have time to work on the engine framing all these photos up? Very cool stuff Chris, excited to see where you are saturday.
I second.
I REALLY like these photos for some reason:
SO cool.
The caption, angle, lighting, color contrast completes this image.
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