My Ibis RS4 Build Thread

[koolade9]

The trans mounts are basically the same between the A/S/RS4...clearance issue was with those running jhm headers on the S4.

[WinterRunner]

Thanks for the clarification. I find Stern has better hardware than 034.. I will make the change soon.

[koolade9]

Pic from over thanksgiving:


Finally got the hood painted (Will hopefully be doing another photoshoot soon):


Did another CB clean...Build-up was pretty standard for mileage (11k since last clean). Significant butt-dyno difference as usual:


So I took it to Goodspeed's Maha dyno to see what it could do (#s are in WHP, read up on Maha before comparing):

[Capt. Obvious]

I thought I read somewhere that guys were running meth injection on their RS4s to prevent the buildup so you don't have to yank the intake manifold every other month. Any reason you're not doing that?

[crabpot]

I'm actually surprised there was significant buildup after 11K ...

[mbgt72]

I thought I read somewhere that guys were running meth injection on their RS4s to prevent the buildup so you don't have to yank the intake manifold every other month. Any reason you're not doing that?

It was tried, no real improvement was shown from it's use.

[koolade9]

I thought I read somewhere that guys were running meth injection on their RS4s to prevent the buildup so you don't have to yank the intake manifold every other month. Any reason you're not doing that?

The S/C guys that were running meth injection didn't see any difference...probably from the infrequency of use. Toyota had it right, using traditional port FI in conjunction with DI...

I'm actually surprised there was significant buildup after 11K ...

Visualy, the build-up is about the same as cars with 20-25k between cleanings...it seems like the shorter intervals make cleaning easier. The longer you wait, the "harder" the build-up becomes...

[BenSti]

Any update on that oil cooler ;)

[WerkzRS]

The S/C guys that were running meth injection didn't see any difference...probably from the infrequency of use. Toyota had it right, using traditional port FI in conjunction with DI...

i thought S/C on our cars eliminated the carbon issues??

[A4natomical]

Hey Blake, hope you're doing well. It's been some time. Just ran thru ortega today. Clear roads, cool air. Miss the passenger seat of the RS. I have to hang onto my steering wheel with stiff arms to keep my torso from sliding back and forth across my flat seats.

[koolade9]

Any update on that oil cooler ;)

Shoot me your address and I'll get that sent over.

i thought S/C on our cars eliminated the carbon issues??

Negative. Supercharging alone shouldn't cure CB.

Hey Blake, hope you're doing well. It's been some time. Just ran thru ortega today. Clear roads, cool air. Miss the passenger seat of the RS. I have to hang onto my steering wheel with stiff arms to keep my torso from sliding back and forth across my flat seats.

Thought you might be interested in this. Costco makes 30" x 20" prints for 8.99. You upload your photos onto their website and pick them up at your local Costco. I tested the printing quality on a few of my photos. They came out pretty good. I'm gonna snake a photos I have of your car and print them out for the garage.

Thanks bud, I still love the pictures from that sesh! I'll hit up costco and see if they offer the same deal locally...


<weak_update>
Made the cover of the RS4 calendar:


Pic from a track event last year I never posted:

</weak_update>

[frrg]

how nice of you to share

See ya in June dude.

[koolade9]

As some of you know, in lieu of a snub mount at the front of the motor, we have such a thing as a torque mount. As soon as I was made aware of such a part, I was pretty sure it was broken...call it a hunch. As soon as I found out it was $360 to replace, I was certain mine was destroyed.

Well I finally got around to taking a look at it last week...pulled the bumper to check on the oil cooler/air intake and do a few headlight mods. The mount itself was fairly easy to remove...two 10mm and a 16mm bolt on the top of the mount, and a single 16mm nut on the bottom of the mount directly above the alternator. The bottom one is a bit of a pita, but with a 16mm crows foot wrench, it's not too bad.





Sure enough, mine was split clear in two pieces. This would explain why clutch engagement was a bit choppy, forcing me to shift smoother...I've gotten so used to it and figured it was just the lwfw and stg4.

After looking at it, I once again realized this was going to cost $360 to replace, just so it could break again... Was I about to commit such an act of lunacy?!? If you answered "no f*cking way in hell", then you would be correct. I spent $4.76 on a M10 4" grade 10 bolt/lock nut and the duct tape of motor-mounts: a pair of old hockey pucks... The height of two pucks is a few mm short of the torque mount's height. On the upper mounting bracket, there are two aluminum spacers I was able to remove to make up the height.




Car is back together, shifting is now solid, and the car feels great!

I am sending the broken mount off to stern to see if they can make an aftermarket replacement. No guarantees, but based on the available room in there, and the basic design, I'm pretty confident they can come up with something.

Also added clear corner lenses to my headlights, LED parking lights, and blacked out the forward reflector for a darker look.





Oh, and just for fun, this is what rubbing looks like:


Lesson learned, never re-use axle bolts when replacing cv shafts, they stretch...spend the $12 for a new one.

[beemercer]

nice update, my A6 has something similar to the rs4 torque mount and surprise surprise it was in two pieces when we pulled my motor. I was thinking of trying to cast my own, or maybe adapt another cheaper mount to replace it

[koolade9]

nice update, my A6 has something similar to the rs4 torque mount and surprise surprise it was in two pieces when we pulled my motor. I was thinking of trying to cast my own, or maybe adapt another cheaper mount to replace it

I agree, I bet you could get another one to fit... Just one bolt top and bottom. As long as the height is the same or close, you can afford some variance in the width...at least on the RS, but I'm sure yours is pretty similar. As-is, the pucks "absorb" the forward torque of the motor, the downside of my current setup is that with any reverse motion (downshifting) it's basically solid, and the motor-mounts handle the dampening. Probably not ideal, but I've ran solid mounts on previous cars before, so it's still better than that. Really no noticeable change in vibration either, that was a big plus.

[A4natomical]

Good find. Bet your psyched to have found and fix that TQ mount. Car looks better than ever. Stance is impeccable.

[beemercer]

I agree, I bet you could get another one to fit... Just one bolt top and bottom. As long as the height is the same or close, you can afford some variance in the width...at least on the RS, but I'm sure yours is pretty similar. As-is, the pucks "absorb" the forward torque of the motor, the downside of my current setup is that with any reverse motion (downshifting) it's basically solid, and the motor-mounts handle the dampening. Probably not ideal, but I've ran solid mounts on previous cars before, so it's still better than that. Really no noticeable change in vibration either, that was a big plus.

good to hear the vibration is minimal, I was thinking of something similar but was worried the bolt would transmit vibration. Ans makes sense on the different dynamics of how its operating.

mc master carr has vibration dampening sandwich mounts, I was considering adapting on of those, maybe just shim it up if its too short. I was thinking a male-female so I can slot the stud into the chasis side and then bolt the engine side into it. Maybe p/n 9232K63, only $21, not sure if the bolt sizes are right though.

either that or cast one, use some steel pipe, and cast lag bolts with a few fender washers on the end into it with urethane.

[A4Turbo04]

I freaking love your car dude

[koolade9]

Good find. Bet your psyched to have found and fix that TQ mount. Car looks better than ever. Stance is impeccable.

Thanks dude! Yeah, just trying to button up a few things here and there...always something.

good to hear the vibration is minimal, I was thinking of something similar but was worried the bolt would transmit vibration. Ans makes sense on the different dynamics of how its operating.

mc master carr has vibration dampening sandwich mounts, I was considering adapting on of those, maybe just shim it up if its too short. I was thinking a male-female so I can slot the stud into the chasis side and then bolt the engine side into it. Maybe p/n 9232K63, only $21, not sure if the bolt sizes are right though.

either that or cast one, use some steel pipe, and cast lag bolts with a few fender washers on the end into it with urethane.

I like where your heads at... As for that part#, width will work (B), the bolt length looks good (C), and thread engagement should be acceptable (D). The height should be damn close actually (A). The only difference is the bolt size (M12), as the RS used an M10...doesn't seem like a show-stopper though, there's room to bore both holes a little larger... For $21, it's worth a shot I suppose...what's the worst that can happen? ...it breaks and you're out $21. Better than a $360 part you know is going to break...

I freaking love your car dude

Thanks bud

[beemercer]

what's the worst that can happen? ...it breaks and you're out $21. Better than a $360 part you know is going to break...

lol, very good point

[A4natomical]

thanks for making my lock screen look amazing...

[OMGHI]

Just read the entire thread and realized you're in AZ ?!?! where at ?? I'm in Tempe with a Nogaro B5S4 avant. Would love you see this car on the 101... Great car man. Certifeid Audi Tech, lemme know if you need help with anything.

[koolade9]

thanks for making my lock screen look amazing...

That turned out great! You plan on going to wuste perchance?

Just read the entire thread and realized you're in AZ ?!?! where at ?? I'm in Tempe with a Nogaro B5S4 avant. Would love you see this car on the 101... Great car man. Certifeid Audi Tech, lemme know if you need help with anything.

Yup, moved out here a little over a year ago, I'm in Arcadia/Biltmore... I haven't been out much lately, but I should be out at the 'first thursday' meet on the 7th. Would love to check out your avant as well

[Sharkfin]

thanks for making my lock screen look amazing...

Where did you get that lock screen pic?

[A4natomical]

Where did you get that lock screen pic?

Blake let me take them :)

[Sharkfin]

can you post em up pretty please?

[nnnick]

Here's a shot from Wuste:

[koolade9]

Great pic Nick! It looks all shiny

[A4Turbo04]

your car is just perfect

[sherbet]

Great pic Nick! It looks all shiny

Let me know how the wheels turn out after a wash with some decent water


...and sorry I never got really cleaning 'em, I got distracted and totally forgot!

[ryanworth]

Pleasure meeting you Blake, car looked fantastic at Wuste!

[A4natomical]

can you post em up pretty please?

uploaded these on photobucket. crappy quality.










fatty body

[A4Turbo04]

seriously, I WANT THAT RS4!!!

[aaron1085]

what'd those wheels run ya? come on...ballpark. GREAT car, looking at ditching my VMR 710's and going a more 5 spoke design to change it up and show off the BBK a bit.

[Sharkfin]

thanks for the pics

[koolade9]

Pleasure meeting you Blake, car looked fantastic at Wuste!

You too brother! Sorry I couldn't stick around and shoot the sh*t a little more, we had been there for a few hours and hadn't even made the rounds yet. I didn't make it out to audifest west either...really wish I could've...

what'd those wheels run ya? come on...ballpark. GREAT car, looking at ditching my VMR 710's and going a more 5 spoke design to change it up and show off the BBK a bit.

When I bought these, they were basically the only concave 5-spoke option out there (that I could find). There are a few more options out there these days so you've got some variety to choose from...

[koolade9]

I haven't posted many updates in awhile, but thought I'd share this.

I spent some time at MRC & TTS last weekend playing with a disassembled BNS engine...after inspection, it's exactly as I thought... The external oil cooler and the oil block run parallel with one-another. The oil block being the most direct route, and it appears to be the point of least resistance. Looking at this pic, the ports to the right are the inlet/outlet for the oil cooler. The ones on the left side are straight down to the oil block. These are in-line with the inlet from the oil pump, and the outlet to the filter & main galleys.



Here's a pic with the lines laid in place to give you an idea of the flow:



This would certainly explain why I'm seeing low temps during low-rpm usage since there is adequate time to route through the oil cooler... Knowing what I know now, I think the setrab oil cooler may be almost too effective. By blocking off the oil block ports, all the oil will be forced through the oil cooler.

My primary worry is the ports running to the oil cooler are slightly smaller (ballpark 12mm vs. 14mm) than through the oil block.



I think I'm okay with this, as there is a bottle-neck directly after the oil pump prior to this point anyways.



I believe the oil pump should be able to maintain pressure regardless...it's still X in X out...so I don't see a real problem...correct me if I'm wrong. Regardless, I'd like to measure it.

I'd like to move forward with having a simple block-off plate made...and ideally, it would be nice to have the initial prototypes drilled/tapped (where both ports were) for an aftermarket oil pressure and/or temperature sensor.

These are the ports I want to block off:



I'd like to measure the following:

-Measure/calculate the pressure loss across the oil cooler on my car.
-Ensure there is no loss in oil pressure at high rpms
-Measure the oil temp over prolonged high-rpm usage (local track day)

If all goes well, I have my solution...it may be in isolation though, as I'm in the middle of the desert... Regardless the next test would be to put the same plate on a stock car to measure the same parameters.

If the pressure delta is the same with the stock cooler and there is no pressure loss at high-rpms, then hopefully that same car could be tracked to try and see what oil temp could be reached...seems counter-productive, yet vaguely scientific... My theory is that the OEM oil cooler is more than sufficient to handle the load of the BNS motor, it just needs to be used more effectively.

Even if the above goes well, I'm a bit concerned it might be too much and over-cool the oil in colder temperatures. I recall when I first drove my car from VA to CA, I was in IL in 15deg ambient temps and was seeing 187-189deg oil temps consistently over a period of 3-4 hours...Which brings me to my next point.

There is another possibility that it may still be too efficient for cars running in cold weather. The oil may be over-cooled... If this is indeed the case, what I could envision is another oil block that would go in place of the OEM block. There would be a simple passageway from inlet to outlet, and have an oil thermostat in-line. It will stay open until the oil reaches a certain temperature, then it will close, forcing the oil through the cooler. It's still not in the direct line of flow, as it's running in parallel, so it will be more of a passive solution. I think this could/would be the solution for every car... Again, this is only if a simple plate leads to over-cooling... If I take my car up to the mountains I should have that answer...if my big-ass oil cooler doesn't get things too cold, then the smaller one should be fine in theory.

I'm open for input/criticism on my theory...I'm rather excited there could be a light at the end of the tunnel...

For all the engine pics I took, feel free to go Here.

[koolade9]

It's been awhile...

Updates coming soon

[BCsniper]

TTS SC???

[koolade9]

TTS SC???

Naaa... Staying NA.

Still waiting to post updates till I have everything sorted.

in the meantime, my track wheels live on